Best products from r/aviationmaintenance

I’m an mechanic and and owner as well so I see both sides. Your intuition is right to get it out, it’s going to suck but the peace of mind is worth it.

Not sure if you already have some but some mechanical fingers will help you as it gets closer to getting it out.

The fuel will be a double edge sword, it will enable the float to float, but once it’s floating it’s going to move all over. My recommendation is once you get a visual on the float, try to grab it a bit with the fingers. If that doesn’t work get it positioned within the ribbed compartment of where the fuel cap is and drain the tank. Once the fuel is out of the compartment the float won’t be so easily moved and will be easier to grab with mechanical fingers, a bent coat hanger, what ever it takes to try to get the float close to the fuel cap.

In regards to draining the tank, obviously you can use the fuel drains but that will take forever and is kinda messy. I’d recommend purchase a siphon to speed it up. My favorite go to is the super siphon because it’s got a glass marble on the end to prime the line you just shake it up and down so there’s no drinking fuel and it has great flow once started. It comes in handy for jobs like this or say you decide to bring the extra person but your tanks are topped you can cleanly drain fuel into 5 gallon cans to shed the excess fuel. I know it says unavailable but look around the farm supply stores, home improvement stores, etc and you’ll be able to find one if you want that brand.

Not sure about the waterproof on the borescope you have. Depending on the unit it might not be waterproof but I’d check with the manufacturers specs to get an idea.

So the bad news will be if that float doesn’t float your going to have to go even deeper and remove sheet metal to find it. I imagine if your fuel tank indications were normal or at least somewhat working(at least reads full or close to it when full) it will float. This is rare but can happen.

Good luck, happy fishing!

The avotek book here is kind of our default text book, but I really don't like it. It doesn't do a good job at explaining things, and there's excess stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1933189282/ref=mp_s_a_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1485311225&sr=8-26&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=avotek

This book is pretty good, but has a LOT of minor errors that can be distracting.

https://www.amazon.com/NCATT-AET-Test-Study-Guide/dp/1484094433

This book is AWESOME! Even though it's not an aviation book, it explains 90% of what's on the AET and it does a really good job at explaining it. You could definitely buy an older addition to save some cash. If you buy this book you will have to use other material for things like FOE, fund. of flight, corrosion, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1111128537/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485311149&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=introduction+to+electronics&dpPl=1&dpID=51taV6yqLTL&ref=plSrch

Finally, watch these videos on YouTube: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SpqwAasxY7U

The guy is a professor at a community college and again, even though it's not aviation related, he explains 90% of what's on the AET incredibly well.

Hope that helps!

An inexpensive set of crows feet are handy, but a good set of torque adapters may be more useful. The T&E set goes down to 1/4" and are great for torquing in tough areas. Here is a good reasonably priced set.

How detailed of an answer would you like? I have a good kit but I’m only on-call contract maintenance. I carry the basics and I try to have tools that serve multiple purposes just for ease of moving around.

Best tool of the bunch is my carry toolbox. Feels like it should cost twice as much.

Remember 7-11 twists per inch, I think that's IAW AC-43 or this handy book that should be in your toolbox. http://www.amazon.com/Aviation-Mechanic-Handbook-The-Standard/dp/1560278986

Also your middle bolt is "neutral" and is NOT being assisted by the lock/safety wire.

It should look like this: http://image.customclassictrucks.com/f/28178941/1003cct_13_o+how_to_safety_wire+screwheads_double_twist_method.jpg So you have an "S" shape at each bolt. This is so it's always being pulled tight incase a fastener is loosened.

Other people are also right, in that you should be doing the twists counter clockwise at each interval such as: http://firetrucksandequipment.tpub.com/TM-9-254/img/TM-9-254_202_1.jpg The second picture from the top. This pushes the wire into the work so that it doesn't come up over the top of the head of the fastener.

I was also taught not to twist the wire by hand at a 180 degree angle as it might nick it causing stress raiser but as usual YMMV.

Oh yeah, before I forget, bend your tails so you don't cut the next person sticking their hand in doesn't get cut (run your finger over just to make sure). I saw it the other day, on a Cessna Conquest in the engine compartment, it wasn't nice, the guy got cut pretty bad.

Happy to help. This is my 4" block I did at trade school. https://i.imgur.com/GvV19aV.jpg All done by hand...

practice, practice, practice :)

If intrinsically safe torches are important at your work, I'd recommend the Pelican Nightstick

It's all we use at work, but all tooling here is work provided (military tool control rules). Hi-vis casing so it stands out if you drop it. Handy dandy wrist lanyard and belt clip. Plus it has a second LED on the underside. The main lamp is quite a bright, focused beam, while the bottom one a wider spread. I use the bottom on regularly, for example by clipping the torch to my chest so the bottom light shines outwards, or by standing the torch up and letting it shine out as a very easy to position inspection lamp.

Not quite what I think you're looking for but I'll recommend it anyway.

"To Love An Aluminum Bitch"

An ex-mechanic wrote a book of poems and stories about maintenance. There are some excellent entries in there.

To Love An Aluminum Bitch: Stories & Lyrics of Aviation Maintenance & Adventure https://www.amazon.com/dp/1499635036/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5a04CbTBWAMZC

For cold weather I just go to a local hardware store and try some on since I want something that doesn't fit too snug in the winter. I try not to get the winter ones dirty so that they last longer especially getting oil based liquids in them.This are what I use for general use. If it's decent outside these are my go to. The cut resistant seems to let them last longer. These have been the best rubber gloves I've used. I worked an airline that had them free stock and we dealt with skydrol and they worked like a charm. They fit tight so you could grip things easily. I use these currently for general use and they work okay. 5606 won't cause issues but fuel, skydrol, and solvent cleaner melts them. I used these when I was a fueler And I still have them in my garage. They worked well.

Cost a little more but this is what you're looking for: 3M Personal Protective Equipment PELTOR Camelback Gel Sealing Rings HY80, Comfort Replacement Earmuff Cushions, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DHVXKVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UcXVDbPMAY9ZB
They seal really well and are way more comfortable than the standard earpieces on most Peltors.

OP did say angle wrenches already but this was my go-to answer as well. TEKTON sells a 14 piece set for about $40 on Amazon if you're not ready to sell your soul to the Snap-On guy. My set has held up very well so far. Crow's foot attachments are really useful too.

I've used so many different soaps. Uncle Sam tried cutting corners, I tried pinching pennies, but ultimately cocoscrub is by far my favorite. It cleans better than gojo and your hands smell like piña coladas when you're done.

It's hard to say without knowing exactly what you're going to be doing, since it varies so much job to job. I work on the MRO side of things doing c-checks on commercial birds, and on a day to day basis my most used tools are just your basic hand tools and my 12V drill. However I have picked up some other stuff along the way that has proven invaluable:

• Skin Sppons, they're really good for cutting sealant and all prying when there's just a little bit of a gap
  
• This little ratchet, some weeks I use this thing more than my regular ratcheting screwdriver or 1/4" ratchet, it helps out in tight spots
  
• Brass Punches
  
• Spline sockets, it will really vary aircraft to aircraft how much you really need these. Craftsman has decent cheap sets, they call them universal sockets or something.
  
• Ignition wrenches, there's lots of shitty little hardware
  
• Headlamp
  
  That's all I can really think of at the moment, don't worry about having every possible tool you can think of before you start. There's no sense in spending a bunch of money on tools you won't end up using. It's much easier to figure out what you need to fill in gaps once you start rather than trying to guess now. No one is going to expect you to have everything right away and it sounds like you have a good start already.
  

I know is says automotive but they work perfect for aircraft pins/sockets. I use them daily for testing. The only probably is the 20 and 22 pin adapters will break off if you move them around too much so you have to be careful with those. There might be some companies that make them a bit cheaper too.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-TL82-Automotive-Socket-Adapter/dp/B000VRJH06/

Get these.

https://www.amazon.ca/GearWrench-80307-4-Inch-Standard-Socket/dp/B0014ZXUU2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=gearwrench+12+point+socket+set&qid=1563346800&s=gateway&sprefix=gearwrench+12+point&sr=8-4

Gearwrench is super decently priced on Amazon. Lifetime warranty baby!

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85035-35-MicroDriver-Set/dp/B0062FSAVI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=gearwrench+85035&qid=1573185704&sr=8-2

Something like this. It's basically a ratchet that just takes he's bits that is low profile. Great for interior work and inboard flap actuator fairings on CRJs

I love these - https://smile.amazon.com/3M-Earmuff-Protectors-Hearing-Protection/dp/B00009LI4K/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1510080043&sr=1-4&keywords=3m+ear+protection

custom fitted with these -
https://smile.amazon.com/3M-Peltor-Camelback-Sealing-HY80/dp/B00DHVXKVA/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1510080212&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=3m+ear+protection+gel+pads

The Gel pads last for years and years where as the regular ones last only a few months. Plus the gel pads are insanely more comfortable and form fitting giving you better sound protections. The pads are a bit spendy but mine are going on 5 years with no sign of slowing down. I made a custom soft nylon elastic cover to slip over the gels as the gels can get a bit sweaty.

GearWrench 85035 35 Pc MicroDriver Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0062FSAVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_uzM8Bb8WFMFF1

https://www.amazon.com/NCATT-AET-Test-Study-Guide/dp/1484094433

I used this. was a breeze