Best products from r/ballpython
We found 533 comments on r/ballpython discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 125 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Jump Start JumpStart MTPRTC Digital Controller Germination Heat Mat Thermostat
- The only safety ETL certified thermostat on the market
- Provides constant optimal temperatures for germination/rooting
- Ideal in homebrewing for maintaining desired fermentation temperature, and perfect for temperature control in reptile terrariums and small pet enclosures.
- LED heating indicator light and Digital temperature control
- Controllable range of 68°F - 108°F, Choice of Celsius or Fahrenheit readout (press Up or Down button to change)
- 1 Year Warranty
Features:
2. AcuRite 00891A3 Indoor/Outdoor Digital Thermometer with Humidity
- Displays indoor and outdoor temperature, indoor humidity
- Integrated 10-foot weather-resistant temperature wire and probe
- Stands on desktop, shelf, mantel or mounts to wall; momentary backlight for easy reading at night
- Records minimum and maximum humidity and temperature levels for each day
- NOTE: May not function properly with certain types of Duracell batteries
Features:
3. Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 774 (Not for Human) Temperature Gun Non-Contact Digital Laser Thermometer-58℉ to 716℉ (-50 to 380℃), Standard Size, Yellow & Black
- NOT FOR HUMAN: Temperature readings from these devices are inanimate objects. The measured temperature for humans or animals will be inaccurate
- BETTER ACCURACY: 12:1 D:S, meaning it can accurately measure targets at greater distances compared to most others; For best accuracy, the distance between the thermometer and object of measurement should approximately be 14.17 inches (36 cm)
- TARGET QUICKER: Measure surface temperature ranging from -58℉ to 716℉(-50℃ to 380℃), with 2 units ℉/℃ to choose; Response time: ≤500Ms; A built-in laser gives you the precision to hone in on the exact space you want to measure
- VERSATILE DESIGN: Infrared technology makes it to measure the surface temperature of various objects especially temperatures above boiling points and below freezing points; Use it for cooking, ovens; AC, refrigerators; or soapmaking cats toy etc
- Note: This color model don't contain emissivity adjustment feature and max temperature feature
- ADDED FUNCTIONS: The LCD screen is backlit, also has an auto-off function to extend the battery life, and features a low battery indicator so you never accidentally run out of juice (battery included)
Features:
4. Reptile Heat Lamp Bulb -60W Ceramic Heat Emitter No Harm No Light Infrared Heater Lamp for Chicken Coop Lizard Aquarium Snake Outside Dogs Brooder 110V,White
- ✔ Perfect 24 Hours Heat Sources – Ceramic heat emitter is a radiant heat source which creates a natural sunlike heat with a uniform pattern, last up to 10000 hours.
- ✔ 100% Heat Efficiency – Reptile heat lamp the long wave infrared heat produced by this emitter will warm reptiles very efficiently. It also increases the ambient air temperature in the terrarium.
- ✔ No Light Emitted – Reptile heat bulb does not disturb normal sleeping habits of reptiles, chickens coops and outside pets. Available for daily use.
- ✔ Suitable for High Humid Environments – Ceramic heat lamp was made of high-purity pottery clay which ensures its anti-crack and working in high humidity terrariums.
- ✔ Heat Lamp for Reptiles Voltage: AC 110-120V; Power: 60W; Material: Ceramic, Metal; To avoid scald, please wait at least 1 hour to cool down before touch it.
Features:
5. Inkbird ITC308 Freezer Thermostat Heating Cooling Plug Temperature Controller Outlet 110V 1200W Digital Temp Control for Greenhouse Heater Cooler Reptile Brewing Fermentation Kegerator Probe
- Simple to use: plug it in, set the temp ranges, place the probe, plug in the heater/cooler into the marked outlet.
- Be able to connect with refrigeration and heating equipment at the same time.
- Easily calibrated.
- Can display in Centigrade or Fahrenheit.
- Whether you need temperature control for fermentation, greenhouse, kombucha control or to set up your temperature project system, the ITC-308 temperature controller is a great choice.
Features:
6. Inkbird Digital Temperature Probe Controller Thermostat Timer AC 110V 1200W Only Heating Plug Time Switch Reptile Breeding Heater Planting Greenhouse No Cooling Control
- NO COOLING CONTROL.There is only heating relay. It can be widely use in over-heat protection and automatic temperature control system of all sorts of electrical equipment for aquarium, pets breeding, hatching, fungus fermenting, and seed germination accelerating, etc. Only one relay and it extends two plugs which both are heating plugs, NO cooling plug.
- It can be set to two different temperatures with its function of dual time cycle setting during 24 hours according to the day and night, which can more suitable for the physiological needs of animals and plants.
- This plug and play product is designed with dual LCD display, and offers the optional display of Centigrade or Fahrenheit, which makes it more humanized temperature control. With large power output 1,200W, it's suitable for most applications.
- The temperature can be controlled more accurately with its function of temperature calibration and temperature hysteresis.
- There is only heating relay. It can be widely use in over-heat protection and automatic temperature control system of all sorts of electrical equipment for aquarium, pets breeding, hatching, fungus fermenting, and seed germination accelerating, etc.
Features:
7. BYB 100W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter Brooder Coop Pet Infrared Lamp Bulb, White
- ☀ Perfect for high humidity terrariums; lasts up to 10,000 hours
- ☀ Use only with a porcelain socket (E26 socket). To avoid scald, please wait at least 1 hour of cool down after turn it off
- ☀ Voltage: AC 110-120V; Power: 100w; Material: Ceramic, Metal, NiCrAl
- ☀ This non-light emitting heater bulb offers an excellent 24 hours heat source and will thoroughly heat any reptile without the disturbance of an additional light source
- ☀ It will also increase the ambient air temperature in the terrarium. Infrared heat penetrates the scales and skin tissue, promoting health and healing as it widens the blood vessels and increases blood circulation.
Features:
8. ReptiChip Premium Coconut Reptile Substrate, 72 Quarts, Perfect for Pythons, Boas, Lizards, and Amphibians
- 🐍 CREATE A HEALTHY HABITAT for your ball python or iguana with ReptiChip Coconut Substrate for reptiles. Its superb humidity retention helps form a tropical paradise in turtle and reptile terrariums.
- 🐍 72-QUART COMPRESSED BRICK equals 10 lbs of safe, comfortable reptile bedding for professional breeders and serious hobbyists. Just add water to moisten and our pet snake substrate is ready to use.
- 🐍 ODOR-ABSORBING ReptiChip Coco Substrate encapsulates waste product, making your gecko, python or turtle bedding a healthy environment for your pet and ensuring your own home is pleasant-smelling.
- 🐍 100% ORGANIC coco chips are highly sustainable and earth-friendly. ReptiChip Breeder Block has been meticulously cleaned so it is a dust and dirt free hermit crab or ball python snake bedding.
- 🐍 VERSATILE BIOACTIVE SUBSTRATE can be used as reptile or tortoise bedding. Its multifunctionality makes it an essential addition to your ball python tank accessories and hermit crab supplies.
Features:
9. ThermoPro TP50 Digital Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer Room Thermometer and Humidity Gauge with Temperature Humidity Monitor
- 【Air Comfort Indicator】Humidity meter with humidity level icon indicates air condition -- DRY/COMFORT/WET, allowing this humidity sensor to ensure you’re always aware of changes to your home/household with just a quick glance
- 【High Accuracy and Quickly Refresh】Inside thermometer has high accuracy of ±2~3%RH and ±1°F, making it ideal for measuring fluctuating readings like in a greenhouse; Data measurements are updated every 10 seconds to give you lastest changes of the environment
- 【High & Low Records】Accurate hygrometer digital thermometer displays high and low temperature & humidity, always get ready to the changes of the environment
- 【Healthier Home & Environment】Thermometer hygrometer with temperature and humidity monitor ensures proper indoor humidity control has important skin, allergen and other health benefits; Can also be as refrigerator thermometer, freezer thermometer, reptile thermometer, soil thermometer, humidor hygrometer, cigar hygrometer and more
- 【Smart Design】Indoor room thermometer features a tabletop stand to place the temperature monitor on your counter or use the magnetic back to attach to a fridge; °F/°C Selector; Powered by 1 x AAA battery (included)
Features:
10. Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer for Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, TT-300H-WH, White
- For use with 300 Watts of Halogen or Incandescent bulbs (for LED version, please see TTCL 100H WH)
- Dims table and floor lamps to suit any activity
- Easy plug in installation; no wiring required
- Easy slide operation allows you to adjust lights to desired level
- Cord included with product is 6 feet long
- Includes (1) Credenza plug in dimmer
Features:
11. Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 Non-Contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~1022℉ (-50℃~550℃), Yellow and Black
- NOT FOR HUMAN: The instant read thermometer can't measure the internal temperature of an object; The readings from it are inanimate objects, and the measured temperature for humans or animals will not be correct; Class 2 laser, optical power 0.5-0.9Mw
- BETTER ACCURACY: 12:1 D:S, this temperature gauge can accurately measure targets at greater distances compared to most other thermometers; For best accuracy, the distance between the thermometer and object of measurement should approximately be 14.17 in
- TARGET QUICKER: Measure surface temperature ranging from -58℉ to 1022℉/-50℃ to 550℃, and unit switching ℉/℃. A built in laser gives you the precision to hone in on the exact meat cooking, griddles, pools, refrigerators, and any you want to measure
- ADDED FUNCTIONS: The LCD screen of the infrared thermometer is backlit, also has an auto-off function to extend the battery life, and features a low battery indicator so you never accidentally run out of juice (battery included)
- VERSATILE USES: With Infrared technology, the temperature gun can measure the temperatures above boiling points and below freezing points; Use it for cooking, pizza ovens, griddles, BBQ grills; A/C, refrigerators, pools; candy&soap making, etc
Features:
12. Sponge Neoprene with Adhesive 1/8" Thick X 54" Wide X 1'
For cushioning and sealing against air and moisturePerfect for noise insulation, padding, expansion joints of precast concrete and steelUse as a dust seal for furniture, store fixtures and partitionsVapour barrier for prefab buildings, HVAC & refrigeration, automotiveExcellent door seals for truck a...
13. Zoo Med Labs Digital Thermometer Humidity Gauge
- Digital read out
- Quick and easy to read
- Waterproof probe. Uses one LR44, 1.5 v battery
- Country Of Origin: China
- Age range description: All Stages
Features:
14. AcuRite 00325 Indoor Thermometer & Hygrometer with Humidity Gauge, Black, 0.3
- Reliable and Accurate Readings: Thermometer and Hygrometer gauge are able to quickly report measurements
- Multiple Placement Options: Sleek tabletop design with magnet attached on the back for easy placement anywhere
- Humidity Comfort Level Icon: Ensure proper indoor humidity in any room where the digital humidity and temperature monitor is placed
- Simple, Easy-to-Read Display: Easily see a snapshot of current conditions at a glance
- Daily High and Low Indoor Temperature and Humidity Levels: Easily understand your range of conditions in any room
Features:
15. BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing Breeding Incubation Greenhouse, 40-108°F, 8.3A 1000W ETL Listed
- Multifunction: can be used as a table lamp in your room, garages or art studios, a work light in photography and workshops, and even a growth light for indoor plants
- Material: 8.5inch aluminum reflector, 150W max phenolic plastics lamp holder (E26). Type A lamp. (Note: The temperature of the lamp holder will rise after use, do not touch it with your hands)
- Function: the clip is firm and well fixed, 360° adjustment, the direction of the light can be pointed to where you need.
- Specifications: 8.5X4.25X10 inch, rated for up to a 150-Watt bulb.
- Package include: 1-pack 150W 8.5inch aluminum reflector clamp on light fixture (No Bulb Included)
Features:
16. Ethical 9-1/2-Inch Stoneware Crock Dog Dish
- PERFECT : Pet Food Bowl for Food, Treats & Water – great for dogs, cats, reptiles, bunnies, Guinea Pigs Hamsters, Ferrets and other small animals.
- HEAVY WEIGHT : Less movement compared to lightweight bowls, prevents slipping and spilling. Durable ceramic prevents tipping and additional moving which will ensure happy and comfortable eating.
- EASY TO CLEAN : Dishwasher & Microwave safe – smooth surface of high quality ceramics products allows for an easy rinse and clean. Perfect for your dog or cat.
- CLASSIC DESIGN & PERFECT SIZES : Classic blue and white simple design – fits almost any home décor. Our 3” Extra Small Bowl Fits 1/2 Cup / 4oz – great for small animals . 4” fits 1 cup; 8oz. – for small cats and small animals. 5” Fits 2 cups or 16oz – perfect for cats. 7” – 6 cups; 48oz , 9.5” – 8 Cups; 64oz.
- ETHICAL PRODUCTS PROMISE: if you or your pet aren’t totally happy with the product, we want to hear from you. Please visit our website for more information
Features:
17. Ethical 5-Inch Stoneware Crock Dog Dish
- High-gloss finish
- Dishwasher safe
- Heavyweight stoneware. Eliminates movement and spillage
Features:
18. BohoFarm Heat Mat Thermostat Controller Digital Heating Mat Thermostat for Reptile/Germination/Rooting 68-108℉
- [CONSISTENT TEMP]The heat mat thermostat worked great to keep a consistent temperature when paried with the electric heater.
- [MULTY USE]Used great for greenhouse and reptiles,such as corn snake,gecko,baby chicks,tortoise,hedgehog,lizards,terrariums,hermit crab,etc.
- [Worry-free]Worry-free about the temperature getting too hot or too cold.
- [ACCURATE]:Temperatures between:68-108℉/20-42℃.
- [EASY INSTALL]The heat mat thermostat is very easy to get set up.
Features:
Enclosure
Glass tanks with screen lids are very bad for ball pythons, you should be looking at getting a tub set up (using a rubber maid/sterilite /iris tub & soldering or drilling holes into the sides - here is a good tutorial of setting that up ). Or you would be wanting to get a PVC enclosure. I have an Animal Plastics T8 for my ball python, it did take about five weeks for it to show up, though. So if you want to go this route, plan way ahead. The tub route is cheaper, but takes more DIY skills. The PVC cage route is more expensive, but very aesthetically pleasing. To make a glass tank work, I suggest covering three sides with foam board to help insulate, and covering most of the screen lid with saran wrap or foil to keep humidity in. Also you would want to ditch the aspen and get something like coconut husk.
Humidity
A ball python needs at the minimum 60% humidity. This is incredibly difficult to achieve in a glass tank with a screen top. A tub or PVC enclosure makes this super easy. Humidity should be measured on the ground with a digital hygrometer. The stick on humidity gauges that pet stores hawk are often inaccurate and can cause serious injury or even death if they come unstuck from the wall and stick to your snake. I use this two in one hygrometer / thermometer.
Temperature
Ball pythons need a thermogradiant w one end at between 88F & 90F & a cool end of 78Fish - the ambient temperature should never be below 75F, & should be around high 70's. In a tub or a PVC enclosure, you will want an under tank heater - heat tap, heat mats, heat pads. I recommend the flexwatt that you can get with the Animal Plastics enclosure or the ultratherm from Reptile Basics. If you have trouble keeping the ambient up in the PVC enclosure, you may want to get a radiant heat panel, which installs to the ceiling of the enclosure. For a glass tank, you will probably need a ceramic heat emitter installed over the cage to keep ambient temperatures appropriate. CHE sucks out humidity, so you will need to be extra on top of that. CHE gives off no visible light. Red lights are often given out like candy at PetCo/Smart places as good ways to provide heat at night. They are not. Ball pythons can see red light, and it messes up their day/night cycle. I don't have recommendations for CHE because I don't use them.
Thermostats
Any & all heat sources you have for your BP need to be controlled by a thermostat. Failure to appropriately control your heat source can lead to it quickly becoming 120F & injuring your snake. I highly recommend Spyder Robotics Herpstats. You can get larger ones w more probes so that you can control all your heat sources w one unit. They have a ton of good safety features & a lot of people on this sub can answer any questions you have on them. The cheaper ones are around $100ish. If that is too much for you, there are a lot of people who use the Jumpstart thermostats, but they have less safety features & can wear out quickly. They also make a loud clicking sound periodically. I cannot stress this enough, this is not a place to cut corners. You need a thermostat.
Thermometers
I already linked to my recommended combo hygro/thermometer. This thermometer is great because it has a small probe to measure "outside" temperatures. I use this probe to measure the floor on my warm side (I hide it on the ground under the substrate so I know the absolute hottest place my BP can get to). I place the unit itself on the cool side, so I know all my temps & the humidity on one unit. You will also want an IR thermometer gun (there might be better recs than this one). This is good for spot checking temperatures without moving around probes & also checking the temps of the prey items.
Hides
You want at least two similar, enclosed hides. Half logs are NOT suitable, they are too open & they stress out the BP, as they can't watch both ends at once for a predator. Some of the best hides are these ones from Reptile Basics. They are enclosed on all sides with just a small entrance. They are dishwasher safe & also very cheap. You want them to be similar if not identical, so that the snake does not have to choose between feeling safe & thermoregulating. You will want one on each side of the temperature gradient. Feel free to add more that are different for diversity in the enclosure. I also have some fake vines/leaves in mine so that she feels more invisible. Go to a craft store or the fish supplies for these, the ones marketed for reptiles are way overpriced.
Water dish
You will want a water bowl that is large enough for the BP to soak in. This should be changed daily, as they like to poop & pee in their water. You'll want something sturdy as they like to tip them over. I got some crock dishes from Reptile Basics. You don't need any water treatment for the snakes water unless you treat water for yourself. If you tap is safe for human consumption, it's safe for your snake.
Feeding
BP's eat every 5 - 7 days as hatchlings and yearlings, as adults they can go longer. BP's are NOTORIOUSLY picky eaters. The ideal IMO for a BP is a proper sized rat fed either pre-killed or frozen/thawed. I feed frozen/thawed rats from Perfect Prey. Just a heads up - they ship with fiber glass insulation & dry ice. I try to open the packages outside so my cats don't get into it. They come in freezer bags and I just store them in my regular freezer. If even one thing is wrong in your husbandry, your BP will likely not eat.
How Much To Feed
The feeding amount depends on the weight of the BP. You will want a digital kitchen scale - you can get one cheaply at any box store. While under 750g, you want to feed about 10%-15% of their body weight about every 7 days. Once they are in their second year you want to feed 7%-10% of their body weight, after they are in their third year, you want to feed about 5% every 7 to 14 days. I document all feeding days and the weight of the prey in my google calender.
You should be weighing your snake at least once a month to track how much you should be feeding. You should not disturb or move or handle your snake for at least 48 hours after feeding.
Frozen / Thawed
I get the rat out the night before the day I want to feed. I put it in the fridge. About two hours before I feed, I get it out of the fridge and put it on the counter to get it to room temp. And then I soak it in a zip lock bag in warmish water (I use a temp gun to get water around 110F) for about 20 minutes, and use a temp gun to make sure the rat is around 100F, and then I run the head under running hot water until its 110F. The head of the prey should be warmer so the snake has a target. I then use tongs to move it around in the enclosure to mimic it being alive. She (usually) strikes pretty quickly. If she doesn't, I leave it in overnight, and throw it out in the morning if she doesn't eat it.
I prefer frozen thawed cause I can buy cheaply in bulk. It's also safer. As BP's get bigger, they require larger prey - and rats have sharp teeth and sharp claws and can seriously injure your snake.
Myths of Cage Aggression
You do not need a separate cage for feeding it. This is a myth. The best way to reduce stress at feeding time is to feed in their regular enclosure. This minimizes the risk of regurgitation.
Substrate
Stay away from aromatic woods - such as pine. A lot of people like to use coconut husk, unprinted newspaper, or paper towels. There are pros and cons to each. I like paper towels, they are cheap and easy to clean up messes with. I use PVC enclosure so I don't need a substrate that helps with humidity like coconut husk. This should be spot cleaned whenever a mess is made. My BP likes burrowing under the paper towels. She creates "underground" tunnels. Aspen chips can mold super easily so not really recommended. If you have a chip type substrate and are worry about ingestion of substrate while feeding, put a plate down before hand.
your BP isn't just thin, she's emaciated. you need to put some weight on her, but you need to do so gradually. you also really need to feed her f/t before she gets injured by live prey. if your enclosure is meeting her needs, and you're not causing her stress by handling her unnecessarily, she should eat f/t for you just fine. i guarantee she wasn't eating f/t at petsmart because she was stressed due to poor husbandry.
i'm going to dump a TON of information on you. some of it may be redundant, some of it may be useful. first, three detailed care sheets, a tub setup tutorial, and product recommendations to cover all types of enclosures. then i'll give you a breakdown of how i handled my emaciated BP, simultaneously putting weight on her safely and switching her from mice to rats. you'll fine more generalized feeding tips in the third care sheet. read everything thoroughly, then come back with any questions.
since i don't see any mention of what your enclosure is like, i'll start with this: glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link.
now for a suggested feeding regimen. if your BP will genuinely only eat live right now, you can safely start her on appropriately sized rat pinkies/fuzzies/pups. if their eyes haven't opened yet, they won't be able to bite her hard enough to cause injuries. once she fills out a little and can more comfortably skip a few meals, you should start working on switching her to f/t.
at the time of rescue, my BP's weight was 140g, meals were one fuzzy mouse with an estimated weight of 5g, meal schedule was "once every few weeks". here's a breakdown of the meal sizes, schedule, and switch from mice to rats i used. this is all f/t, so dealing with live will be a little different.
i continued scenting her rats for another couple of months, but that was more because it was easy [i have a corn who eats mice] than it being necessary. she was readily eating unscented rats within five months. a couple years later, i usually don't even have to warm up her rats beyond room temperature, though she does require some dangling with the tongs as she won't eat anything she hasn't "killed".
Red light isn't good, you'll want a heat mat (MAKE SURE you have a thermostat for it or it will get too hot) and possibly a ceramic heat emitter (also needs a thermostat) for air heat. What are the temps and humidity and how do you measure them? Glass tanks usually don't hold humidity well and often aren't good for bps. You need at least 2 good hides, one for each side. They should be snug and enclosed with only one opening, preferably identical, half logs don't work.
Someone should come by with a really good care sheet, read it, it has some great info. I know this might be a lot of information, but having a good setup is important and will save you headaches in the future.
Edit: I found the care sheet. Credit to u/_ataraxia.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
I highly recommend you read the below information. Guaranteed that you'll be completely redoing your set up after reading all of this.
Credit: u/_ataraxia
The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. Read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry, due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. Wood enclosures can also be suitable, if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. I'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
If you set up a good enclosure, and the temperatures and humidity are correct with no special treatment, the most work you need to do is feed every 1-2 weeks, spot clean the substrate and clean the water dish as needed [once or twice a week], and do a full enclosure cleaning every 1-6 months.
I am a bot programmed to automatically provide the following content by /u/_Ataraxia when summoned. Link to the most recent version of this content here
The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Ball Python Care Guides
Set-up Recommendations
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