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Just did the wiring for my cb750k with an m-unit. Hands down the best accessory was the m-button. Made what's usually a mess of switch wiring into just two wires heading back to the m-unit. Honorable mention to Revival Cycle's starter solenoid. If your bike needs one it's a neat little package.

This DT connector kitwas also super helpful and cheap at less than the typical cost of a single genuine DT connector.

Hope that helps!

I'm serious about the rear tire pressure. It's probably around 35-40lbs of pressure right now. Get a really good tire pressure gauge... because you need one anyway. I could build a nice house for what you have invested in that bike, so don't be cheap and get a good one. Hell, even if you don't change the tire pressure like I'm suggesting, you still need a good tire pressure gauge.

There's a ton of $10 gauges floating around, but I've never found two that read the same, so all of them can be counted on to be inaccurate. But there are good, relatively inexpensive gauges out there. Avoid the digital ones unless you into the >$200 product lines. Not necessary unless you work on a racing team and 1/10lb differences are going to be appropriate and necessary for track condition changes. But GOOD dial-gauges with flexible hoses can be had for about $40-50. Intercomp and Joe's Racing both make reliable, accurate gauges, and they're almost as good as the ones for professional racing teams. Make sure these are 60lb gauges, because you can use them on your car and truck, too. Buy a good one once and you'll never need to buy another. I know you understand this idea.

You probably don't have an inner tube in that rear tire so don't go below 20lbs ever, although I've limped my Road King home on a tire going flat that had about 15lbs in it (an 800lb bike is NOT the same as the 475lb bikes that Harley recommended 15lbs of pressure for). but 22-25lbs is more than enough for the tire to retain its bead on the rim under almost all conditions (except drag racing, unless you're rolling on the throttle instead of dumping the clutch) and hitting a hard curb straight on at 50+mph, and then you'e already got other problems. But running 22-25lbs may make the difference between enjoying every minute of your ride and having to buy a football mouth guard to keep from breaking teeth. OK, you probably don't need the mouth guard, but the difference between 35-40lbs and 22-25lbs will be night and day. Give it a try?

Bikebuilds is a new site that catalogs custom bike builds. There are some similar builds indexed there.

As for reference, my experience was a little different because I was altering bikes for my own use in racing, so it's all really focused on handling, but still, you might find it useful: go-to books have been Bradley and Tony Foale.

That said, if you're really into understanding the implications of swing-arm lengths and rake angles, I have heard high praise for Cossalter's Motorcycle Dynamics, though I have not read it myself.

Everyone recommends using this stuff. Supposidly it holds up well vs gasoline. Though it is pretty toxic. You need really good ventilation, filter mask, and make sure you don't have any pets near by. And it's a little pricey.

I'd put my money and effort into the tank you got, It it isn't falling apart, it's restorable.

Get a quart of metal etch https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-40204-Metal-Prep-quart/dp/B00J5940JE?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&psc=1 , a quart of gas tank sealer https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-49216-U-S-Standard-Sealer/dp/B00B3HXCZ4/ref=asc_df_B00B3HXCZ4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312128189269&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9870445733732195706&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021744&hvtargid=pla-522130837870&psc=1, and a gallon of diesel fuel, total around $40.

Remove the tank and remove all fittings. Get some corks or plugs for the openings. Put in 1 cup of diesel and a handful of nuts, small screws, and similar steel parts, cork up the tank and shake it up, agitating it so the hardware is scraping against the rusted areas. Drain the diesel and keep it for parts washing. Continue to use the nuts and screws in the tank. Some folks say gravel makes a good scrubbing media, but I think it's more inclined to break into particles than metal.

Put in the 1/2 cup of metal etch with as much water as the label recommends and with the same hardware shake it up, turn it over, shake some more. the idea is to get removal of the flake rust and penetration of the pits. The metal etch will convert the accessible iron oxide to iron phosphate which is more stable and less reactive. The chemical needs time to work, and soft red rust needs to be mechanically removed.

Rinse with diesel or hot water and repeat. When the red metal looks gray or black it's done. Get off any film or crust as best you can. After the last rinse, make sure all the little steel hardware is out, then oven or otherwise dry extremely well. Don't neglect the tank during the process by leaving it for days with acid or water but keep it moving along.

Dont risk riding with a makeshift rig. A leaking tank over a hot engine can make a heck of a fire.

I built mine with 2x4 for the frame and 1/2 plywood. I also recommend getting some of these, makes moving the bench around the garage super easy

Woodtek 163703, Hardware, Casters And Glides, Furniture & Cabinet, Workbench Stepdown Caster Set, 4 Each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZDDLVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hCq7xbG330E70

You got a link to that? Sounds funny lol I'm not 100% sure i'm doing it the "right" way but i'm trying to do as best I can.

It was a lot of work, getting in all the cracks and crevices on the frame was a pain. Eventually invested in one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Forney-72730-Crimped-2-Inch----008-Inch/dp/B001GM8POY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475185920&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+drill) and it made life a lot easier

Though about something like this? I can't personally vouch for it, but it gets great reviews and has a very broad range.

You might need to fab something up. I was looking for the same headlight but never came across anything in my price range. You might be able to get something like this and fit one of these into it.

Search ebay/ amazon? I bought a taillight that has integrated turn signals for 20 bucks.. DOT approved and works well. Another option is to look for salvage yards and repurpose something to fit your need. Here's what i bought:
https://www.amazon.com/Krator-Taillights-Integrated-Indicators-Motorcycle/dp/B0052O8DCG/ref=sr_1_34?s=automotive&srs=8161042011&ie=UTF8&qid=1492878657&sr=1-34

Krator also manufactures other MC parts that are fairly inexpensive and might suit your needs.

I use sunpie , ive had it a few months and it works really well. Guys over on the harley sub love it. Also it was less than $60

Thanks for the suggestions. Is there some minimum standard of spline drive sockets I should look at, or would something from Harbor Freight, or something like this be fine?

I also may see if I can rent/borrow a 1/2 impact wrench first...

More like a plate of figure 8 shaped noodles. Was pleasing indeed, and quite simple once I pared it down.

New setup is a bit weird (no surprise there).. There's a battery cut-out, so I can totally kill all electronics when needed (parking / maintenance), and only a few things actually run through the normal key switch.

That effectively makes it a two key system; you need the battery cut out "key" to even be able to use the normal key. Wonkey, but it works best for the fuse block I bought (which has a common hot terminal and LEDs that indicate ground faults) and results in a lot less wire between the battery and things that need lots of power. Only the ignition, starter switch, and tail / brake light run through the key switch and its 12g hot lead. Everything else, including any accessories I install, can pull right off a fuse block that hooks to the battery through a big fat 6g wire. That's probably a good thing, since I'll be running dual headlights, probably a light bar as well, maybe an inverter, maybe CB radio, maybe some heated grips, etc.

What's your view on using one of these or something like it to check what the fuel/air ratio is actually doing?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDT8MW/ref=s9_simh_gw_p263_d1_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-5&pf_rd_r=0SR1QZXMS7Y8R9K1FG1T&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1935682402&pf_rd_i=desktop

This is a wideband O2 sensor plugged into the exhaust and a continuous digital readout of your air/fuel ratio. You want 14.7:1 most of the time, 12.8:1 balls-out-wide-open. This thing is supposed to tell you THE TRUTH[tm] about what your lean/rich condition really is and should make tuning issues like this involve less guesswork, more science.

You also have to pay a local muffler shop a little bit to drill a hole in your exhaust pipe at least 18" from the heads (just ahead of the muffler is fine) and weld in a bung for the sensor. If you pull the sensor after tuning just fill the bung with a short bolt.

These things haven't shown up much in bike tuning but they're making big inroads in performance cars. Innovate is kind of a cheaper alternative to AEM, the market leaders in these critters.

This book taught me a lot: https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Basics-Techbook-Editors-Manuals/dp/0857339982/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527544626&sr=8-2&keywords=motorcycles+haynes

I'm in the same boat. I didn't grow up around this stuff so I had no idea. What I like about this book is it covers things that a lot of people who grew up in the culture seem to forget to explain because it's almost second nature for them. I remember things a lot better when I learn the "whys" and this book does just that. Also, the hard part about going straight into youtube or something is there's almost too much information. I find it great for specifics because it narrows your options, but for something like "general motorcycle maintenance" it's hard to distill the information you need down and separate the good from the bad.

You'll still need a service manual for your bike but this book will teach you what each part does and how it works, then you can take the knowledge you learn from it and apply it to the service manual.

You could always pick up a hand impact driver like this.

Also you could try trying to turn both directions. Sometimes all you need to do is get it moving.

Also you could use a propane torch to heat the bolt, and give it a few heat cycles.

Amazon is definitely hit and miss. I’ve had this one for a few years now on my 83 Goldwing. I highly recommend it. Some guys at Sturgis we’re wondering how I got a daymaker on my Honda...lol