Best products from r/bikewrench

We found 114 comments on r/bikewrench discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 1,423 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/bikewrench:

u/AnontheMaus · 1 pointr/bikewrench

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

u/UncleKielbasa · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

How is the chain slipping? Is is dropping down or hopping up a rear gear, or is it slipping forward across teeth of the same gear?

Just based on your language, and how I perceive your knowledge of how everything is working, you might be best served by visiting a bike shop. Please don't take that as a knock against you, but if you want to take it in, you will be well served.

That being said, where's the fun in that? Let's do this ourselves!

If the chain is slipping forward, it may be stretched. Check out Sheldon Brown's article on chains. You can measure the chain stretch using a ruler, since every full link (that's two half-links, the individual swiveling parts) is 1" pin-to-pin. Measure twelve inches and the whole 12" should be pin-to-pin on a brand new chain. If your chain is 1/16" past 12" measuring twelve full lengths, replace it. If it gets more gone, it will start wearing down the teeth of your rear gears, and you'll need a new cassette or freewheel, depending on your rear wheel. That will cause slipping and skipping for sure, even with a brand new chain!

If you replace the chain, you will need to get a cheap chain breaker. There are many kinds at different price points, but I can vouch for that one as I carry it with me.

For a new chain, you have to get one that is the right width. This generally depends on the number of rear "speeds" you have. Up to 8 speeds in the rear is a standard chain. 9, 10, and 11 speeds in the rear require a chain that is thinner to fit in between the close spacing between gears.

You can also get a master link and replace a link in your chain with it - you can then remove the chain and reinstall it (for cleaning and work) without using a breaker. That's just a random one I found on amazon, which happens to be for 10-speed chains.

Measure your chain, check your gears for wear. If you have to replace your chain you just need a chain breaker and new parts. If you have to replace the rear gears as well you need a new set of gears and the appropriate freewheel/cassette removal tool. There a few common types of freewheel tools and just one cassette removal tool. They lock in to splines and allow you to use a standard wrench or socket to remove the tool.

Here's a video about removing a cassette

Here's a video about removing a freewheel

Here's a video about measuring a chain

u/GruntledMisanthrope · 1 pointr/bikewrench

You have a square taper bottom bracket. It's a common standard, they'll fit. Your biggest concern will be making sure the crank length is the same (probably 175mm, you'll want to measure though) and the same or similar tooth count on the chain rings, although if you wanted to change that up to bigger or smaller rings now would be the time. To know what size your current chain rings are, just count the teeth.

If you do the work yourself, you're going to want a crank puller - there are cheaper versions of this tool, but I've not had good luck with them. You'll also need a 15mm crescent wrench to get the other pedal off, a set of hex keys or metric sockets to get at the crank arm fixing bolts, and a torque wrench to set the torque on the bolts when you reinstall (if you're in the US, an auto parts store like Autozone will loan you the torque wrench). And watch a couple Youtube videos to get oriented, I like RJ The Bike Guy.

Two options to replacing it yourself are to take it to your LBS, and if you do that then probably just best to take them the bike and let them order the part. OR, and this is my favorite, find your nearest Bike co-op. In return for a small donation of time and/or money, they will likely have the correct crankset in their used parts bin for cheap or free, and a fully stocked repair station for you to use and somebody to show you what you're doing. Bike co-ops rock, if you're lucky enough to have one near by.

u/thalience · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

First off: watch out with "26 inch" wheels. There are no fewer than 5 different, incompatible "26 inch" sizes which you are likely to encounter!.

Since 26 x 1-3/8 wheels are not used on modern bikes, your options are going to be a bit limited. You definitely want an aluminum alloy wheel (instead of steel). Here is one in the right size and material, that accepts a thread-on freewheel. It is a bolt-on wheel, however (not quick-release compatible). The seller does not indicate what the axle length is, but I think only one axle length was common for 26x1-3/8 wheels. Good luck!

Really hard to help you on the gearing situation without pictures. What kind of shifters does it have? Is the rear shifter indexed?

You may be able to just buy a new 6-speed thread-on freewheel, if the shifter is not indexed (or is indexed for 6 speeds). They are not expensive, and can be installed without a tool. You'll need to replace the chain too, btw (the chain and rear gears wear together). I would prefer this option, if at all possible.

If you simply must keep the old freewheel with bizarro gears, you'll have to figure out which of the various freewheel removal tools it takes. You'll also need something to apply serious leverage to the tool, as freewheels are tightened by the force of pedaling. A bench vise is best. Plenty of youtube videos demonstrating the removal technique.

u/gl21133 · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

What tools do you have? Those are a one time investment, but can get pricey. I started with this kit and built from there:

I'd definitely clean and repack the hubs and headset, replace the chain and all cables, then see where a good clean and lube gets you. You can get chains and cable kits on Amazon for pretty cheap as well.

u/sevendayconstant · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

For a derailleur hanger, go here:

I've ordered from them in the past and they were great. They even worked with me to exchange a hanger since I ordered the wrong one. Very painless.

For other parts, I just shop around via Google. Generally I go with Amazon since I have a Prime account but other times shops will pop up with better prices. I've ordered from most of the places /u/TallBobbyB listed (for the US) and have had good results. Probikekit is based in the UK but they usually have pretty great prices too.

If you want to learn how to fix stuff, you can find just about everything you need on Youtube or the Park Tool Website. If you want something to hold in your hands, Lennard Zinn wrote the bible.

u/summerchilde · 1 pointr/bikewrench

You're welcome. Remove that cable but save it so you can use for measurements. You CAN ride the bike without it but it will be in low (3rd) gear.

Shifting on these goes like this...

1 (1st) is high gear and is the easiest. When used the cable pulls that indicator chain all the way out.

2 (2nd) is normal as if riding a single speed bike. The cable pulls the indicator about halfway.

3 (3rd) is low gear and the hardest to pedal in. Cable doesn't pull at all. Takes a bit more muscle to pedal but you can go really fast.

Once you replace that cable you'll have a nice bike to ride. They are ridiculously easy to maintain once you get the hang of it.

Also, your wheels probably have chrome/steel rims. You will want to replace the brake pads with Kool-Stop Continentals. Get the SALMON (orange) colored ones here. These are the best brake pads for these old wheels. Salmon color only though!

u/[deleted] · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

Three suggestions for you:
1- invest in a digital caliper. I got mine from harbor freight for 30 dollars. It will save you a lot of headache and help you know what size part you are looking for.
2- invest in the right tools. It doesn't have to be park tools (although they are really nice). But having the correct bottom bracket tool will save time and headache.
3- Buy the park tools big book of bike repair ( Or zen and the art of bike repair (
These books will become your bible through your builds.
Also, don't hesitate to ask the wonderful community of r/bikewrench.
They answered acouple of my questions really well and quickly.
Good luck and I've posted up a couple of my builds :D (also a big DIY guy myself)
[IMG][/IMG]my mountain bike
[IMG][/IMG]my old commuter bike

u/rockandrollhat · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

First off love your bike dude

Second off i love this $8 shifter set from amazon. Not bar end though, but work great on all shifters comes with cables n housings too

not really bar end but maybe you could mount them on the bar end?

Either way love the bike just htought i'd mention it because you said you are $ conerned

u/scoofy · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

You'll probably want a park tools repair stand (i have that one, it's cheap and it gets the job done), and the big blue book.

You'll also probably need a bottom bracket tool depends on your type of bottom bracket though. You might want to get a breaker bar as well (leverage is very important when removing these bottom brackets).

You'll need a chain whip and lockring spanner.

If you are going threaded fork, you'll need the relevant spanner wrenches.

Make sure you have a good multi-tool/allen wrench set. A nice tube of waterproof grease, and some triflow or other chain lube, and a degreaser. Also a good pedal wrench is good to have.

A 4th hand tool is really good to have if you are running your own brakes, plus you'll need a good housing/cable cutter.

If i can think of anything else, i'll get back to you, but that should pretty much cover it.

u/lexicon993 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Kool stop dual compound brake pads


Kool stop salmon brake pads

You need the right pads for all weather conditions if you are riding in the rain. Especially heavy rain.

Regular black brake pads are truly for DRY conditions only.

Dual compound is for both. Salmon is for mostly wet.

Give a pair of these a try and not only will you have the best and strongest rim braking you've ever had, you'll have the best all-weather performance there is for rim brakes. It is absolutely worth the money and one of the best bike upgrades you can do for a rim-brake bicycle.

Make sure to toe in brakes to avoid squeaking and you're golden.

If this is for a commuter bike and rain happens here and there, this is a necessity for safety, not a luxury. The right brakes are just as necessary as a helmet.

3 out of my 4 bikes have rim brakes and these are the only pads I use or recommend. Getting the toe in correct for squeaking is a thing, but other than that they are the best brakes out there for rims. Hands down. Especially for rain and snow.

u/p4lm3r · 6 pointsr/bikewrench

I am likely in the minority here, but I absolutely abhor Park stands (like the PCS-9, I do use their PRS 2.2-1).

Anyways, if it can pay for itself, I would strongly suggest a Feedback Sports Pro Elite. One of my favorite features is the ratcheting clamp, I can squeeze it hand tight on carbon if I am doing SAG and just need to get the bike off the ground quickly for a drivetrain tweak. I have never had a single issue with this stand and mine is 3 years old this fall.

For a budget version of this stand, the Spindoctor Pro G3 is a serious workhorse but really not for bikes over 35lbs. We have one of these in the shop that is going on 5 years old and everything on it still works perfectly- and if you have ever been around a bike co-op, you know shit gets destroyed pretty regularly.

Good luck finding the right stand for you!

u/lee-c · 11 pointsr/bikewrench

In addition to tools, may I recommend a book such as the Park Big Blue Book or Complete Bicycle Maintenance and Repair. Between a book,, and YouTube, you're pretty well covered for references. Also a good companion for tear-downs: A digital camera. A picture, and a good system for organizing parts that have a specific order will save you some heartburn.

u/taonzen · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I did this with my 1983 Cannondale a couple of years ago. It's pretty easy.

First, locate some bar end shifters. These Shimanos will probably be your only option because you'll have a 5 or 6 speed rear hub. The package says that they are for an 8 speed cassette, but you will need to flip them into Friction mode. I've tried, and they almost but not quite work in Index mode.

The package will come with new, longer cables, new cable housings, and most importantly, cable stops that will bolt onto the boss on your frame - the section left on your downtube when you remove the d/t shift levers.

There should be some directions in the package. You will need to unwrap your handlebars, remove the shifter from the shifter housing, then insert the shifter housing into the handlebar ends (I snuck the bar tape end along with it) and snug them up. Replace the shifters, feed the cable through , put the first set of cable housing on, and run the rest back to your derailleurs like you would for any other shifter.

They will friction shift, so the adjusting should be easy. Wrap the bar tape so a little housing rides up to the first bend (there might be some plastic stuff to make this easier), and finish wrapping.

Here's what my ST500 looked like when I got it, and here it is with the new shifters and brake levers being installed.

u/shut_up_everyone · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Not quite as technical as the others, but the Complete Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair from bicycling magazine is a great, easy to use reference. Everything is illustrated with photos and there is a ton of good information for both the novice and the experienced.

u/_Curious-Guy_ · 1 pointr/bikewrench

>Zinn and the art of mountain bike maintenance

Ha! There is such a thing!

I honestly thought it was a typo for Zen, and there is a billion "Zen and the art of something..." out there, and just figured that was one of those. And I was going to pass on yet again, another philosophy of life outlook. Read one, read them all. LOL.

Cool. Thanks.

u/quietIntensity · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Your best bet would be to take it to a bike shop. They likely have a crank arm in stock that would work, assuming they used a normal size and the classic square taper interface. If you can't get the whole bike to the shop, you can probably remove the crank arm using one of these, and take that to the shop:

They're pretty easy to use, you can find youtube videos that explain it in a couple minutes.

The new crank arm should not cost more than $30 at a shop. Online they are really cheap, and this one is a known good brand:

u/Da_Funk · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Haha, yeah I took the advice on replacing the freewheel seriously just in case.

Thanks for the knowledge. I haven't considered this replacement up to now. I might give it a shot to keep the bike crisp and functional as well as getting my mechanic skills up with the experience.

Here is a follow up question, would a 7 speed like this fit or would the extra gear take up too much space?

u/A1000Birds · 7 pointsr/bikewrench

Not sure what your budget is exactly, but I went with this:

Bikehand Pro Mechanic Bicycle/Bike Repair Rack Stand

It’s been solid, I’ve had it for over a year and have worked on all our bikes on the rack. It’s light but doesn’t feel flimsy. In the future I’d love to own something more heavy duty like a park tools one, but for now this is a gem.

Note: I’m not in any way affiliated with Bikehand, just a customer who would def vouch for the repair stand!

u/GSlayerBrian · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Yeah, I've decided to go that route. It's significantly cheaper and way less effort to just get friction shifters and new brake levers (since the current shifters are a combo). I just wish I could find a set of friction shifters I like :-/ Amazon is lacking in their selection. I want something that's of decent quality no more than $20-30 and grey/black. I've got these in my cart, and they look like they may be kindof cheap (though they have good reviews) and I don't have red anywhere else on my bike so it kindof bugs me that they're that color. I'd like to find shifters that match my new brake levers.

u/RealDudro · 0 pointsr/bikewrench

I was a student too, but I forked out a bit of money for shifters like this:

I found some non-indexed shifters for less than $80 on sale and you might be able to as well. They are a LOT nicer than downtube shifters IMO, and they are compatible with any cassette or freewheel (up to a point).

u/doebedoe · 1 pointr/bikewrench

What is it about drops that you want? If it's a more aggressive riding position then yes go with a road bike. But do know those slimmer tires will not be as forgiving over bumps as something with a bit more volume.

If its just that you want more hand positions for the ride there are a whole variety of bar ends that you can add for little expense. Some of these will stretch you out more, some will just reorient your hands, and these mimic drop bars.

Plus v-brakes are probably the best rim brakes for a commuter (powerful, easy to run fenders, etc etc.)

u/user_name_fail · 7 pointsr/bikewrench

Zinn and the art of Bike Maintenance

Pretty good reference book to have on hand as well.

u/VplDazzamac · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

YouTube is great for specific. I would also recommend reading Zinn & The art of road bike maintenance for fairly detailed explanations. It also has a fairly good glossary and troubleshooting section.

u/aedrin · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

The sets are generally not recommended because 1) you don't need all the tools right away and 2) you generally don't need half of the tools.

There are only a handful of tools that are really important to have, the rest is to make things easier. And some tools are better left to the LBS (such as a real headset press).

To remove the chain you will need a chain tool (get a quicklink/powerlink while you have the chain off of the wheel, they're much easier). To adjust the wheels, you will need a spoke tool (assuming it isn't bent too much). Replacing a derailleur shouldn't require any special tools (screw drivers, allen keys). Although if you're going to be replacing shifter cable housing having a proper cable cutter (such as the park one) is important. You probably won't need to though. Don't forget cable ends (maybe ask for a few from your LBS).

Also, this has been helpful (and seems quite popular):

The rest you can find out from videos online. There generally isn't anything you can't do yourself (although some pressurized components prevent you from reassembling).

u/throwhoa · 3 pointsr/bikewrench


Like that one?


There are a couple of others that want me to chose between 'direct attachment' and 'with riveted adapter' like this one:






Watching youtube videos about how to replace and adjust a derailleur right now...


(edit: also )

u/Clbrosch · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

At this point I would just get a new bottom bracket. If it has run while being able to move like that at all, the bearings and races are going to be completely trashed.
You should be able to get a new one that is compatible with those cranks for cheap.

If you are interested in doing your own repairs now or in the future get a good book like Zinn's art of mountain bike maintenance.

u/wegotyourbuddy · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

One piece cranks are pretty easy to work on so they are a good intro to working on bikes. The only tool you need is a big adjustable wrench and some grease to get them up and running.

Six speed is the correct terminology. Bike speeds are typically expressed in one of two ways, the amount of rear cogs multipled by the number of front chain rings (7 in the rear 3) or by the amount of rear cogs.

If you decide to replace the chain, freewheel (rear cog set) and chain ring you will need the following, chain, freewheel, and example chain ring The chain ring you get needs to say that it works with chains that are 1/2 x 3/32. If you want to be anal about this, you can count how many teeth are on the small cog and big cog of your old freewheel and get a new one that matchs that range along with getting a chain wheel that has the same amount of teeth as your old one. This is likely to preserve your old gearing. This is not a huge deal for casual use, though it's something to keep in mind.

You will need a freewheel remover tool to get your old freewheel off. There are about ten different ones, so I would suggest going to bike shop and having them remove it, or have them tell you which tool you need. You don't need a tool to install a new freewheel.

Also, to install the new chain you will need a chain breaker.

However, I still doubt you need to replace all that crap. I'd start by fixing the bottom bracket, then seeing if that solves the crunching and chain jumping problem.

u/Gnascher · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

The stand with that pump is basically a glorified kickstand. It's meant primarily to hold your bike while you pump the tires ... I wouldn't say it's likely to be holding the bike steady enough (or high enough) for maintenance work or making cleaning easier. I think this is a LOT of money for what's on offer here.

I recently purchased this proper work stand for $89.00. It's very sturdy and appears quite well made. It holds the bike securely, has a tray for your tools and nuts/bolts etc... It's height and angle adjustable, folds up compactly to tuck away in a corner when you're not using it.

That leaves you $30 in your budget to find a decent track pump with a pressure gauge ... shouldn't be much of a challenge to find one in that price range.

u/bpwnz · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

this 2 week old post pretty much covers the reasons why what you're planning on doing isn't very cost effective.

I thought this was the best solution on the thread, so long as you're fine with not being able to stop or shift while in the drops.

u/c0nsumer · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Is all isopropyl alcohol regulated by the FDA? I'm pretty sure it's not...

I say this because I've taken 93% (and 70%) and let some dry in a clean glass, and an oily residue was left behind.

Personally, I use this stuff for cleaning electronics and bike parts. I don't think this would fall under any sort of FDA rules because it's an industrial supply:

u/lunchWithNewts · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Do you really need/want to replace your bottom bracket?

Looks like a square taper crankset. That should be easy to find and replace without touching the bottom bracket. You'll need a crank puller, something like this

u/anonanon1313 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Those are steel rims, so in theory can be hammered out, with the tires removed, but I've never done it myself... Steel rims dent easily, as you've discovered, and they also don't stop well when wet. It's important to keep tire pressure up to the maximum rated on the sidewall to reduce chance of denting.

You could get a new set of wheels, though that bike might not be worth the investment.

As for pads, I'd recommend Koolstop salmon Continentals---

u/mtranda · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Upgrading it will be quite expensive. However, it'll provide you with a wealth of knowledge, frustration and, at the same time, fun.

Depending on your existing hub, you may or may not need a new hub to put your new cassette on.

With a wide enough range of gears on your rear cassette you can get away with a single chainring, so there will be no need for a new crankset/front derailleur/front shift lever.

As /u/fclbr said, you can choose downtube shifters in order to keep your existing brake levers. There are also bar-end shifters, and if you go for a single chainring, it won't be that expensive.

All-in-all, consider if this bike's right for you, size and geometry-wise, as your decision may be a bit rash. If it is, then I'd say go for it.

Rear derailleur - $20

Cassette - $20 - I recommend going for the 34t max sprocket. It'll allow you to stick with a single chainring

Bar-end shifters - $55 - they are 9-sp indexed, but they also work in friction mode, which allows you to freely adjust your gear

Downtube shifters - $14

Cables/outer cables are negligible costs.

u/ILikeBHole · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Thanks so much for all of the feedback!

I ended up purchasing VENZO Bicycle Bike Torque Wrench Allen Key Tool Socket Set and BIKEHAND Bike Bicycle Repair Tool Kit with the addition of cable cutters.

Last night I watched this guy assemble a bike which allowed me to see which tools were needed:

How to Build a Bike Series

I will keep everyone posted on my progress. All the necessary parts and tools should be delivered by March, 20th! Stay tuned.

u/jasonbrown23 · 1 pointr/bikewrench

ok last thing or

whats the dif with Smart Direct Mount or Smart Mount with Bracket

u/iynque · 11 pointsr/bikewrench

I bought a copy of Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance specifically because it includes a sensible list of regular maintenance tasks. It has several lists, like “before every ride,” “after every ride (or three),” “every 1000 miles,” “every 20,000 miles,” and helpful hints about how to know specifically when you need to do certain things, regardless of how many rides or miles you do.

u/torlesse · 0 pointsr/bikewrench

You need something like a crank puller such as

(assuming its a square taper or similar)

to remove the old crank. Depending on the prices of your local bike shop, its probably cheaper to buy the tool and DIY.

It should be a fairly straight forward job, assuming that you are fairly handy. The key thing to look out for is making sure you put the cranks on tight enough, but not overly so that it cracks the crank. Then there are some other minor adjustments that you might need to make. E.g the front derailluer/shift probably need to be adjusted, it might be as simple as to playing around with the cable and limiting screws, or you might need to adjust the height of the derailleur.

If you are new at this, you probably need to spend a good afternoon to swap it over.

So it depends on $$$$ vs time.

u/jgysland · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

I bought an inexpensive tool kit (not from Park Tool) for $50 a few months ago when I needed a chain whip and a Shimano cassette lock ring tool, which would have cost nearly as much to buy separately, and the kit gave me a bunch of other tools, as well. Some of the tools I already had, some I haven't used, some tools are of mediocre quality (e.g., the pedal wrench and spoke nipple wrenches both work, but they're not well-designed for ergonomics or leverage), and there are some tools that I use frequently which weren't included (notably, a cable cutter). On the whole, though, it was a good purchase that quickly paid for itself in terms of savings over the cost of making individual purchases of all the tools I've used from it.

Park Tool makes tools that cost a bit more, and for that you get the peace of mind that it'll be reasonably well-designed and solidly manufactured. For many tools that you aren't sure you'll need, you can get greater value -- more kinds of maintenance and repair you can do off the bat for less outlay -- by buying them in a cheaper kit and supplementing them with tools it didn't include or better tools for those that you've found to be of inadequate construction or poor design.

u/Koolorado · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Its an actual textbook by Todd Downs, and very easy to follow. Found mine on a thrift store shelf for 5.00. A very good book.

u/Lolor-arros · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Get some Kool Stop Salmon Mountain brake pads. They are huge and give the best braking that's possible to acheive. It will be a straight upgrade.

>Also, could anyone tell me what this type of brake and brake pad is called?

The brake is a Weinmann centerpull. The brake pads are just brake pads.

u/HyJenx · 8 pointsr/bikewrench

Pretty much anything that you can buy at a big box store will fail fairly quickly.

Your best bet for a clear finish would probably be an automotive clear coat. These are 2-part catalyzed finishes that hold up very well, but are a little pricey.

Here is one option.

I have not used this particular brand, but it seems to get high reviews.

If you want color on your bike, look for local powder coaters. It can be done for a couple hundred dollars, and will last forever.

u/nowhere3 · 4 pointsr/bikewrench

Your freewheel is broken, you need a new one like:

If you want to do the repair yourself you're going to also need a freewheel tool like:

And some grease when you thread the new one onto the wheel.

Here's a good guide on how to do that:

u/chocolatemeowcats · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

A 2K urethane is best. You can get gallon kits from most paint stores that carry industrial paints or order quarts, and 2k rattle cans from amazon.


u/Ubizubi · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

I really like Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance for most projects. Much easier for me than YouTube videos.

u/ryethoughts · 1 pointr/bikewrench

This book is a great resource if you want to learn how to work on bikes:
Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance: The World's Best-Selling Bicycle Repair and Maintenance Guide

The author is the tech writer for Velonews and he really knows his stuff.

u/PedalinGardener · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I have risers, love rapid fire shifters, but like the feel of drops at times and thought about these

u/muddy700s · 0 pointsr/bikewrench

Here's a wheel. It has a quick release axle, but will work well.

You could either buy this tool to remove the freewheel (gears) and switch them to the new wheel or you could buy a new freewheel set.

u/FuckinWalkinParadox · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

i borrowed my uncle's Bikehand stand this weekend and I think I need to buy my own now. it's amazing.

Bikehand Bike Repair Stand - Home Portable Bicycle Mechanics Workstand - for Mountain Bikes and Road Bikes Maintenance

u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 11 pointsr/bikewrench

+1 for Feedback Sports. I'd consider paying more for the beefier red one instead. I've been using an older version of this one for about 10 years, and my dad has the OLD version (labeled Ultimate Supports, before Feedback was spun off into its own brand) which he uses to this day for weekly road bike maintenance. It's as sturdy as it was the day he bought it, which must have been close to 20 years ago.

Whichever one you buy, you might find yourself using it for decades, so it might be worth spending a little more on the sturdier model.

u/lazy_beans · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I agree. If he wants to try drop bar geometry on the bike he could try these and adjust/replace the stem. Maybe cut the bars after placement. Wouldn't need to invest in shifters/brakes/brifters to try the fit. Definitely cheaper way to try the geometry change.

u/wickedcold · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Wow I don't know what happened but I apparently didn't save an edit. I had other links in there and also a link to the tool.

Here is the crankset that has the same rings you have

Here is the tool you need

The fine gentleman who also replied explained why I said what I said about the chain and ring combinations. You won't have to worry about that though if you get the crankset I linked with the correct ring combo.

u/mheep · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Found the tires x2.
Tubes x2.
Seat is your choice, look for a "cruiser seat" if you want to retain the look of it x1.
Brake pads x2.

Cable kit is above. That should give you a rough outline of what I had to replace on mine, not counting opening up any of the sealed components to clean and regrease.

u/ethanspitz · 13 pointsr/bikewrench

I started with this. Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance: The World's Best-Selling Bicycle Repair and Maintenance Guide

Since I got it, I apprenticed at a shop for about a year and I'd consider that book pretty good. I'm not a huge fan of the wheelbuilding section in it, but it's enough to get you through your first wheel. After that you may want to start exploring other methods as I find the one in that book overly time consuming/confusing compared to the one I learned on the shop.

Edit: I read you might be able to find it in your local library, so you could check it out before you buy it or just simply check it out when you need.

u/mzman · 6 pointsr/bikewrench

When I asked a fellow MTBer a couple of years ago he suggested I get this book. It has been quite helpful indeed.

They also wrote a road bike one with the similar title.

u/cyclicalreasoning · 1 pointr/bikewrench

That's a long cage, which you probably won't need looking at your bike.

See this link for more information on cage length. might be better. Read the above link though and work out what cage length you need.

u/bigtime_porgrammer · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

$89 stand I bought on Amazon has served me well, including working on a rather heavy e-bike on the regular.

Bikehand Pro Mechanic Bicycle/Bike Repair Rack Stand

u/richie_engineer · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

Also get a book. I really like my copy of Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance.

Handy in the shop. He also has a MTB version if that's your style.

u/Atb2801 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

This might work for you. Its smallest gear is 13t but does have a 28 T gear. They make a 14-34T as well.
Shimano Tourney 7-Speed Freewheel

u/pigcupid · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

Yeah, that is some serious RTFM kinda stuff. In addition to your other suggestions, OP should get the Zinn book, if they really want to dive into bicycle repair.

u/ultrapants · 1 pointr/bikewrench

These shifters( will work fine assuming that there's nothing wrong with the derailleurs. As the previous reply stated, it could also just be friction between the cables and housing.

u/qsceszxdwa · 1 pointr/bikewrench

So here's what I would do. Slide in your controls and grips to where you think they would be comfy. Ride it without touching the part of the bars you think you won't use. Cut the bars there if you're satisfied. If you really want drop bars for some reason, stick these on there after you chop the bars.

u/porkchop_d_clown · 0 pointsr/bikewrench

Well, personally, I like to shower after I ride, but that's me...

If you're talking about maintaining your bike, I bought a copy of this:

u/Statuethisisme · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

I mean the same stand that u/singlejeff and u/A1000Birds are talking about. This one.

I only use it for cleaning and lubing as I have a PCS-10 for working on bikes, but since I seem to be looking after and ever growing number of bikes, I decided to buy another stand. I didn't need two solid stands as I'm only physically working on one at a time, so I'll lube a chain on the cheap stand while I'm doing a repair on the quality stand.

u/lavacahacemu · 1 pointr/bikewrench

largest I could find on ebay NOS. By no means affordable.

If the shifting is friction (i. e. doesn't click for each cog), you can replace the rear wheel with anything 6 or 7 speeds, check out craigslist and you can probably get a decent old wheel with freewheel for about 20~30 usd.

Upon further reading it seems that freewheels have a standard ISO threading, therefore, again, if you're ok with friction shifting, you can use any old freewheel, even a new one. Not completely sure about the spacing and/or overall width though, so, give it a try.

u/danecdotal · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

I've got the road bike version too and it has worked well for me.

u/Cmack72 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

You linked to a freewheel remover. What you actually need is a cassette lockring tool.

u/svdodge · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Good news bad news. A longer allen tool will get that bolt out, but once it is removed, the crank will not come off unless you use a crank removal tool like this one.

u/talkingwires · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I only briefly flipped through the Mountain Bike edition, but saw that it does cover flat bars and disc brakes, so I'd probably go with that version. Amazon has a preview of the book if you're not sure.

u/VanMulk · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

Origin 8 makes clip-on drop bar ends that might suit your needs without having to mess with your shifters or brakes.- and they're only $15.

u/squizzix · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Zinn and the art of road bike maint. Most likely your cable is loose. Or you limit screws are funky. I'm voting for the cable. Shift all the way down, loosen the cable nut and pull it tight. Retighten nut. Go shift. You should be good.

u/Sumpm · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

If the bottom bracket is loose, you need to remove the crank arm(s) and tighten it. I'm guessing you don't have a crank arm remover or the correct adapter for the BB cups.

Although it'd be extremely helpful down the line to own all the tools you need for this, it'll be a lot faster and cheaper just to take it to a shop and let them figure out what's loose and what needs to be done to fix it. If you want to do it yourself, you need the following:

u/nicoc3r · -4 pointsr/bikewrench

hot damn theyre taking you for a ride. here is a replacement on niagra cycle. if youve got a freewheel removal tool you should be able to transfer everything over. only downside is that it might be slightly out of true when you get it.

u/802bikeguy_com · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

The spindle length of your current bb might be what you need. If the bearings feel smooth no need to replace. You'll need to buy a crank puller to remove the stock cranks.

u/ratZ_fatZ · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I have a hybrid bike with the exact same 7 speed freewheel and chainring, last week the freewheel went bad so I got this one the bike had the same tires as your's and I went with 700 x 30 tires and the bike is a bit faster but not as good as a road bike. Why not buy a used road bike as it's going to be far lighter than the wife's bike.

u/Fizz11 · 1 pointr/bikewrench

As everyone already said, you need a new freewheel.

I cant tell if thats a 6 or 7 speed freewheel, but here is the 6 speed and
here is the 7 speed part you want.

and you need this to get it off.

There are a million freewheel replacement videos on youtube that you can watch to see how its done. Once you get the old one off ( and it will be a bitch to get off... most freewheels are) popping on the new one is stupid easy.