(Part 2) Best products from r/bikewrench

First of all, I think that's a pretty nice frame. Double butted Tange steel tubing means it should be decently light and strong. Was a middle/higher end bike back in the day. Definitely keep it...it's worth fixing up.

Don't know anything about those tires, but the rest of the purchase looks fine. 28mm tires will "probably" fit, so good luck with that; bikes from that era had a bit more clearance.

You may also want to check if any of the other wear parts need replacement. This is usually the case if the bike sat unused for years: brake cables and housing; derailleur cable and housing; brake pads. After a decade, cable and housing often get gummed up and pads get hard/dry. Getting good brake pads like Kool Stop will make a huge improvement.

With the tires off, scrub the rim braking surface with a brillo pad or something similar, using vodka or rubbing alcohol, whichever is more available.

Check for chain wear with a chain checker (a $5 tool) or measuring with a ruler (google it). If the chain wear is fine and it isn't horrifically corroded with rust, it'll be fine even after 10+ years.

For commuting, I suggest a nice set of generic pedals that are wide, have good bearings, and have good grip. I've had good luck with various Chinese pedals, like this set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHHQQHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You didn't post a pic of the actual bike. But if it's got the original levers, the single best thing you can do is to upgrade with modern brake levers which are substantially more ergonomic:

https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RL340-Brake-Lever-Black/dp/B01173986A/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=brake+levers&qid=1565320277&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-9

https://www.amazon.com/TRP-Alloy-Brake-Lever-Black/dp/B007DCFKE4/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=brake+levers+cane+creek&qid=1565320183&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-18

Yes, there may or may not be other things to overhaul, like bearings and such. But save that for later.

I was gifted the Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair at a bike shop I used to work at. Fantastic reference book, good descriptions, good photos. That and/or youtube are good places to learn maintenance.

Now, on to your bike...

>All the spokes are pretty much completely rusted

Stop there, new wheels are required. Determine if they're 700c or 27" the tire should tell you this info, if you can read it. On the subject of new wheels, I'd also recommend new tires/tubes as they've probably sat through the rusting phase.

>rear brake squeaks like crazy and you really have to pull it to get it to work

New brake pads. The current ones are most likely dried out, err on the side of caution here, brakes will literally save your life (Don't listen to Premium Rush on the topic).

>Rear tire slides against rear brake hindering movement slightly

Brake pad adjustment necessary. Will happen when replacing pads.

>Chain and rear derailer seem to be in good shape

Close up pictures required. You could probably just get a chain cleaner, hopefully the "black greasy stuff" protected the chain from corrosion. Rear and front derailleurs could probably benefit from a healthy application of triflow at the joints.

>Brake cables are rusty, definitely need to be replaced

Right on the money here. New cables and housings. Triflow the shifters for good measure. Replace if they don't work after new cables/housing.

>The gear changer on the left handle bar doesn't work

Triflow trick from above, let it soak for like an hour. Do you still hear "clicks" when you press it? Are the paddles stuck? If your answers are no and yes (respectively), replace anyway.

Lastly, if you take the chain off, how smoothly do the cranks spin? "Stuttering" cranks sometimes mean your bearings and/or races are pitted. New bottom bracket probably isn't a bad item to add to the list, the Shimano UN57 (or similar) are relatively inexpensive and will probably outlast the next apocalypse.

It probably can't hurt to put a wear indicator on the chain and cassette to ensure they are still good to go. This could cause for some harder to diagnose issues down the road for home mechanics if they do need replacing. Chain wear indicators are easy to use, cassette wear indicators require a little more finesse and practice.

If in doubt, grease. You can't go wrong with a little more grease on the moving parts on this bike.

You have a loose crank arm there, and what looks like probably a loose bottom bracket too (the part at the bottom of the bike that the crank arms attach to, it spins).

It's very possible that that bottom bracket doesn't need replaced, and just needs taken apart, cleaned out re-lubed and tightened. Then you would clean up those rusty crank bolts with barkeeper's friend to make them shiny again, and put them back on pretty tight.

It depends how expensive the bike is. If it's a $300 or less bike I would bet relubing and tightening the bottom bracket and then just tightening the crank arms would put it back to working like new.

You'd need a bottom bracket wrench to remove the bottom bracket, and a crank puller. For both those tools that's gonna be about $23. These are cheaper ones but you will only use them once so it's fine.

Then you need some marine grease at Walmart for about $4, and some bar keepers friend (at Walmart or grocery store for about $3).

This is a total of about $30 to fix your bike on your own.

You could follow a video on removing the crank arms
And removing and relubing your bottom bracket.

You would take the bolts off your crank arms, pull both crank arms off with the crank puller, and then remove the bottom bracket. You'd clean it out real good with rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner, and then relube it with marine grease, and then tighten everything down. Then you would clean up those rusty crank arm bolts with bar keepers friend and an old tooth brush, and then tighten the crank arms back on. Bike would be good as new for $30. So long as you're patient, careful, and follow the videos. Look around online for things if your not sure.

If you have access to a torque wrench that would be great to follow torque specifications, but you can do without if you follow a video. I mean, your bike will be much safer afterwards than it is now. Fixing it well (instead of perfect) is better than not fixing it at all.

If you are not a d.i.y. fix-it kind of guy, you can go to a bike shop. Not sure how much they will charge. I wouldn't know, I rarely go unless I'm buying a bike. I only wrench at home 🔧

While some shifters are better than others, at this price point, they all will be about the same. If you want thumb shifters, that is a perfectly valid choice. There are also some trigger shifters out there, as well as grip shifters if you wanted to keep that style. As long as the shifter is shimano compatible, and 7 speed, it will work with your current freewheel and derailleur.

>As for what you described with the current drivetrain, what i think I'm seeing you suggest is 'clip the front derailleur off/remove it, leave the current crankset on with the chain at the middle gear since even though not optimal it current funds can be better spent elsewhere.' Am I reading that right?

No. The bottom bracket axle length will determine how close to or far from the frame the chankset is. This article on Chainline may be of some help.

What I was suggesting is that you can still change the crankset, and leave the derailleur in place as a chain guide (tighten the limit screws to ensure that the derailleur is centered over the chainring). They make purpose built chain guides, but the derailleur is already there and will work, so free chain guide.

As far as the rear derailleur, you have a claw mount derailleur, so for anything "better" than what you have, you will need an adapter. As far as upgrading the derailleur, I would personally go for something along the lines of the Altus M2000 or Acera M3000. Note that these are "9 speed" derailleurs, but the cable pull is the same as 5-8 and the shifter dictates the "speeds" shifted, so they will drop right in.

Pedals, Rockbros are the current king of the inexpensive. They come in a few colours, so you can match that to your taste.

Weeding the bad out is sometimes as easy as reading reviews, yes. However, look beyond the amazon for reviews. I generally prefer a video review, so I frequent YouTube for them, but google/duckduckgo can usually find a few forum posts as well that will answer questions.
It is also sometimes as easy as knowing a trusted name, and using their part over a shady one. Shimano and Sram parts are usually trusted and reliable on the drivetrain. Rockshox, Fox, and Manitou are good for shocks and forks, but Suntour is also sometimes good. There are more brands that are great, but on the low end price point, just play it by ear.

If you run friction shifters you'd have an easy enough time running a triple and then you can run 5 speeds in the back and get way more useful gear range than any 1x setup. Super cheap to find old triples at any bike kitchen/co-op type place. Even nice ones with removable rings in 110/74 bcd are super common from late 80s and early 90s MTBs.

Rivendell sells friction bar end shifters pretty cheap and you have the flexibility to upgrade the rear wheel to 8 speed in the future if you find a deal on a used one off an old hybrid or something.

I'd recommend buying a new derailleur claw like that one so you start off with something straight. Consider keeping a spare around if you park your bike in a crowded rack, they are cheap enough.

This could get done for 100-200 depending on what the used parts market is like where you live. The new bar-end shifters would be the most expensive thing unless you opt for a new rear wheel too.

Good news! I only need one wheel, the rear:
http://i.imgur.com/Wi2krBs.jpg

So I need a cassette and a wheel. Haven't taken the bike out of my car yet or done any clean up, but I'm probably going to pick up a new saddle as well. That or reupholster the one thats there (wouldn't be my first time reupholstering, though in the past the seats were from cars!)

The front wheel is good, the tire is flat. I'll check tomorrow to see if the tube is any good, or if I need to replace it.

As far as the rear wheel, any reason I shouldn't order something like this wheel paired with this freewheel cassette?

Cheap, but seems to have worked out for like trail riding for others (which is about as hardcore as I'll get).

Thanks again for your help so far!

P-clamps are a great solution for attaching a rack when you don't have eyelets.

Here's an excellent article (with helpful photos) on how to install a rack with p-clamps: http://www.bikecommuters.com/2008/07/19/p-clamps-are-your-friends/

Here's a good breakdown and Nitto branded p-clamp from Rivendell Bikes: https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-band-clamps-pair?variant=23336804161

Attach at the upper eyelets and then use 2 p-clamps (one on each side) to attach the lower points of the rack. Once you have your p-clamps, then any rear rack will do depending on your needs - I use the non-disc version of this (link to the disc brake version): https://smile.amazon.com/Ibera-Bike-Rack-Frame-Mounted-Adjustable/dp/B002T5H8MW?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 which is great and affordable (under $30).

You will also need a good floor pump with a gauge(you should go for a good name brand one from a shop, but in a pinch one from academy or wally world should work) and a pair of tire levers like these(doesnt have to be those exact ones, any shop worth a grain of salt will have some).

And if you need help fixing the flat itself, Youtube is a great resource.

I had a look at the Hayes website and a quick google around and I think the answers are as follows:

1. I believe it is a G1 caliper.
   
   
2. Looking at the images from 1, if the connector currently functions, then simply unscrewing the existing hose and pushing on a new hose would probably work. The caveat is of course, as long as Jagwire hoses have the same ID as the original hoses.
   
   
3. The rebuild instructions are available on the Hayes website, no rebuild kits are listed. The pads are readily available according to Google, same as MX 1 pads, and it looks like Chain Reaction has rebuild kits. So does Amazon
   
   
4. I would ignore all of the above and make a small aluminium spacer to allow a standard IS or Post mount adaptor to fit inside the rear triangle. It would require a little fiddling around with cardboard templates, but I think a simple rectangular spacer with some holes drilled in it (perhaps two would need to be tapped) would allow the use of a more modern brake system and probably cost you not much more than all the bits needed to make these work properly again. Rebuilding them is risky because you are assuming the inside of the calipers is still in good condition, if you open them up first and inspect you can make a better decision.
   
   I revived an old set of Avid Juicy 5 brakes, just because I could, but when you look at the price of new Shimano kits, it just isn't worth it.
   
   Good Luck

Just so you know those shifters are pretty sought-after and go for decent money on eBay. They work awesome, keep them, but when you move on from this bke you can probably get your $60 back pretty easily.

That said, your easiset upgrade is to change the brake calipers. Some good reliable brakes are the Tektro ones here, but then you're doubling the cost of the bike. If you have a bike co-op in your town go see if you can get a decent used set.

Whatever else you do, change the brake pads. These are ultra cheap and formulated to work with steel rims. You can check with a magnet if your rims are steel.

Are you able to get this in the UK? It's a very basic derailleur but it works as a drop-in replacement for what you have, with far better performance (it's based on vintage Shimano designs).

The derailleur you have is an oddity, to be sure. Don't throw it away, but it's definitely hilarious how little they cared about geometry back then. It was intended to be used with a more rigid bushing chain that didn't care so much about the cog distance.

I just wanted to remind you to position the saddle parallel to the ground, and to Google some basic bike fitting tips (correct saddle height, and positioning). It's simple to do and will make biking even more comfortable.

As for the tube, you're going to need some tire levers, try prying off the tire & tube from the opposite side of the valve. once you have the new tube in the tire, inflate it a little and attach the tire back to the wheel starting with the valve. work the tire gently onto the wheel, and use the levers to pry / push it all the way on. (be careful when using tire levers, they may pinch the tube against the wheel and cause a puncture in a new tube.) I'm glad you're getting back into cycling, have fun!

I don't think that's a 28" wheel. check again, old bikes are 27", new ones are 700mm, mountain bikes are 26" or 29".

Tires: Paselas used to be cheap and good 27" replacements at $15 each but the prices have gone up. CST brand on amazon are cheap chinese ones. Bell has these kevlar lined for $15

https://www.amazon.com/C638-Wall-Wire-Bike-Black/dp/B0037N32QQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485405078&sr=1-7&keywords=27%22+tire

add 2x 27" tubes (700cc ~28-32mm tubes might work) for $4

Diacomp brakes: $6.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ2S8/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item

brake and gear cables and housing: $6

https://www.amazon.com/PITCREW-500-Cable-Change-Kit/dp/B002GCALOU/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485405425&sr=1-1&keywords=bell+brake+cables

Bottom brackets needs sweat equity, repacking with grease and wash out the crap.

So you're looking at $50 in materials and about 2 hours of time. I've done this on an old 27" bike and still had stem shifting, man when you get the opportunity finding a decent STI shifting bike on craigslist for $200-300 would be a great value to keep your eyes on.

Don't upgrade anything more on this. god help you if it's a french bike with french threading.

The key compatibility items:

• Rim diameter: 700c (ERTRO 622mm)
  
• Rim width: At least 23mm or so. You can just match the front rim.
  
• Hub spacing: Probably 135mm but you can measure. See this picture.
  
• Hub compatibility: Thread-on freewheel is easiest. See this picture for the difference between a cassette and a freewheel.
  
• Freewheel: I think you can go up to about 28t or so. This freewheel would work but you might find a wheel with the freewheel installed.
  
  Edit: Check the specifics (especially the rear spacing) but this wheel might be what you need.
  
  If you get that wheel you will still need the freewheel, which should spin right on, as well as a tire (you have the specs), a tube, and don't forget the rim strip.

The Park Tool version is what I have. It has a socket in addition to being six sided.

If you've never installed a cartridge BB before, I will say it's 100x easier with an adjustable wrench, because you can use a QR skewer through the BB to hold the tool in place. It has a tendency to slip off when using it through the socket. You'll see what I mean :-)

You may want to just start it that way and then finish it with the torque wrench to save the aggravation. In all honesty though you don't really need one. You're just wedging the cartridge in place to prevent it from backing out, which it won't do because of the thread direction. Once it feels tight, it will stay.

I'm pretty sure that's a G1. I have the same on an old Jamis Diablo.

I've used these pads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CK0IQI

Fortunately this caliper has worked flawlessly for me since ~2001 with little to no maintenance, so I've never had to try to rebuild them.

This Pinkbike post indicates a G2 rebuild kit will work on it https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=192349 and indeed from a search it looks like rebuild kits are generally listed for both G1 & G2 as the same kit.

Buy tools as needed, no need to stock up with everything right away. Most park tools I buy on Amazon and get them within two days. Tools I would get right away though would be

• 1" Crescent Wrench
  
• Park Tool Cassette Remover
  
• Chain Whip, for removal of a cassette
  
• Park Tool 3-Way (in 4, 5 & 6mm)
  
• A chain tool of some sorts
  
  As for cabling
  
  Universal Brake Cables on Amazon, just make sure you cut of the correct end.
  
  Here is a shift cable set.
  
  As for cutting the cables and housing, do NOT use standard wire cutters. You need a parrot style nosed set of cutters, like this Pedros set. I bought a cheap set of cutters on eBay that work great. When I cut housing I use a little sand paper to flush up the ends.
  
  The 4th hand is not really needed, I get by fine without it.

https://www.amazon.com/BIKEHAND-Bicycle-Chain-Indicator-checker/dp/B00811WQW0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499380143&sr=8-2&keywords=chain+stretch+gauge

Yes, you can use a ruler, but for $4 it makes the job easier and as long as you use this tool it will save hundreds.

Finding threaded fork that goes with your frame is a PITA. I've done on a bike but it needed to extend the thread, I had to bring it to LBS, which charged me $25/1". I paid $50 for 2 inches. Then cut the steering tube, and then move the crown race.

It might be easier to find a 1" fork and replace the headset to threadless. (I've done this too.) 1" threadless headset I used is $30.

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Threadless-Headset-Silver/dp/B003LR861O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459296261&sr=8-1

This particular one comes with 2 sizes of crown race so the chances are good that it fits with wide variety of forks. If you can find better ones, that's that. Origin8 one is the one I used. It's rebranded Necco headset. But, the bearing is cartridge and not too bad.

Then the fork. Nashbar sells a 1" carbon fork. $100. $80 when they do 20% off day.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_174979_-1___204715

EDIT:
Niagara cycle has a few 1" forks, steel and carbon. You can get away with threaded fork. I've done that too.

http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/components/forks/rigid-forks/700c-rigid-forks?sort=featured&page=2

These Vuelta Zerolites appear to be ok, you'll need to buy a s/s freewheel and I would recommend avoiding the very cheap chinese units, and buying a Shimano (MX30?) as a minimum, add a KMC chain, some Vittoria Zaffiro tyres, all done. For the brakes, you may need something like the Tektro r559 to reach the new wheels.

Will also need to figure out the crankset, but if you're lucky, may get away with running just the inner ring on your existing crankset and put a fairly small freewheel down the back (16t or 15t)...maybe

Not sure what you mean by strange bottom bracket - it looks pretty standard to me. You need something like this to remove the lockring and a large spanner should be able to remove the actual shell.

As for the cranks personally I would just take an angle grinder and cut the axle near the cup, OR after removing the bolts just take it for a nice ride up a steep hill and with caution knowing that the crank arm will fall out. If it doesn't fall out after your ride go again or literally give the crankarm a good kick with the frame on the ground (has worked for me before).

My favorite lock-ring tool:
http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-Bicycle-Bottom-Bracket-Wrench/dp/B0017SE6ZY

You can make a chain whip by drilling three holes in a strip of 1/8" thick strip of steel and tap the chain pins back through the holes:
http://i.imgur.com/bdePDhu.jpg

You can add handles and shaping as above, but just filing or sanding off and sharp edges and wrapping it with some old bar tape or inner tube will work just fine. There was a good thread on chain whips a while back...

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

The one that /u/singlejeff linked to is definitely a lot better than Park Tool's old lockring wrench. This one is much better for those headset notched nuts: https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-Bicycle-Bottom-Bracket-Wrench/dp/B0017SE6ZY

Well, the PCS-9 is discontinued from Park, so I doubt that will be on sale. I am personally really not a fan of the PCS line of stands. They are overpriced and really don't work as easily as some others.

I would suggest taking a look at the Feedback Sports stand at the same price point. IMO it is much better constructed, feels more solid, and is easier to adjust tension.

I have 3 PRS 2.2-1 stands, so I'm not just taking a piss on Park. I have had 2-3 PCS stands and have given them away.

You can get auxiliary bars that mount out in front of your bars that you can mount additional accessories to. That's just kicking the can down the road, but there are some that solve your problem.

Some, like this one mount with two clamps, one on either side of the stem. So it can't slide in either direction!

Some mount to the stem (clamp on, or on with face plate bolts (velo orange makes one) ) or on the steerer with a special spacer.

I bought this stand from Amazon last Christmas, and it does well, works better than I expected. The only flaw is the vise-style clamp can take a while to loosen or tighten.

Feedback Sports Sport Mechanic Bicycle Repair Stand
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F2S824/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are almost always 1/4" steel bearings. If there are markings on the cups you can verify the brand and find out for sure, but most likely it's 1/4". You can buy them on Amazon or eBay, etc. You might want to get an assortment (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018B7D05K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_95naAbB0M2MHC) of sizes and also do the hubs and headset. Don't forget to get grease.

Edit: OP, don't worry about all this talk of micrometers and stuff, there are only a few sizes it could be. Get the assortment of bearings and it'll be obvious which one it is. Then just use the correct size. It's not hard.

Yes, like this!

​

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTRO-Reach-Calipers-55-73mm-Silver/dp/B01N99BGKO/

A Park FTS-1 is about $300, and similar VAR and Campagnolo tools cost much more. I have no doubt that there are more budget options out there, and if the OP wants to invest in a their money in one-time use tools of dubious quality for a job he clearly doesn't understand how to do, well then they are certainly free to. Who owns this tool? Next-level bike nerds (ahem!), and bike shops, and neither are going to be eager to loan their tool out to some rando (especially since one performs this task in exchange for money), so I stand by my point that no one is going to let them borrow one.

It's all well and good to keep the bike original, but the statement that 1" threadless stuff is hard to find is the what I take issue with. If you can order a 1" threadless headset with Prime Now for $30, then it's not hard to get.

Looks like you already got one, but there's also this review and recommendation from Sweethome. http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-bike-repair-stand/

They recommend the Feedback Sports Sport Mechanic.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F2S824/

https://smile.amazon.com/Park-Tool-BBT-22-Shimano-Cartridge/dp/B001A0AIAG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bbt-22&qid=1565128333&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-3&th=1&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/Oumers-Bike-Crank-Extractor-Professional/dp/B0716NX7KC/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=bbt-22&qid=1565128333&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-8

It lookes rusted in, consider a bolt and washers to hold the tool in so you can crank on it with a breaker bar. Might save your knuckles that way.

Also, one side may be a plastic cup.

I have this chain checker. When one side goes in flush, you have 0.75% wear, and when the other side goes in flush you have 1.0% wear. The idea is to replace the chain about the time the 0.75% gets set but definitely before 1.0%.

If the taper on the cranks is screwed up, most likely so is the taper on your bottom bracket. You should replace that as well.

Is your BB a cartridge bracket? Square taper brackets are inexpensive on Amazon, and the Park BBT-22 is less than $20.

Alternately, you can put a piece of wood on the old crank arm and smack the shit out of it with a hammer to wedge it on tighter. Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't. Don't do it with the new set you bought though.

google gave me this https://www.amazon.com/Gub-KBROTECH-Handlebar-Extender-Extension/dp/B06VW7GXM4

but if you have enough steer tube run a second stem like Sheldon brown

Are you sure? Most BB bearings are about 1/4 in.

In any case, amazon sells them for cheap

Ex: https://www.amazon.ca/BC-Precision-BCBIKE5-500-Piece-Assorted/dp/B018B7D05K/

This (brakes) plus this (shifts) comes out under $20.

I find it hard to imagine them any cheaper. A complete set of the black-coated inners costs pretty close to that at most LBSs.

> A 1/4" bearing from a "bike specific" company is the exact same thing as a 1/4" bearing from any other company

As long as they're not a terrible grade... Grade 25 is typical for bike use these days and they're cheap enough not to bother with something like a grade 300. There are still grade 300's being sold by bike companies, but like you said, they're more expensive (even though they're lower quality).

You should definitely replace any missing ball bearings, they are pretty cheap and will make the bearings smoother than they would be with some missing. Here are some bearings i got in the past that are good, but you can always just get the individual sizes you need instead.

derailleurs used to clamp on to the back portion of drop out. there are adapters for one's that don't have a plate and clamp. the listing doesn't show the rear part but something like https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Shimano-Compatible-Index-Hanger/dp/B001PT8M8C

This looks like it might work

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Short-Cage-7spd-Derailleur/dp/B001HD8Q4Q/ref=sr_1_6?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1497773398&sr=1-6&keywords=bike+derailleur

Looks like it's a typical square taper crankset and bottom bracket. In this case you'll need this for the bottom bracket:

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Shimano-Cartridge-Bracket/dp/B001A0AIAG/ref=pd_sim_sg_1

You'll also need a crank puller to take off the cranks if they aren't on already.

> https://www.amazon.com/Gub-KBROTECH-Handlebar-Extender-Extension/dp/B06VW7GXM4

Thanks u/What_a_rubbish_user but that amazon dealie won't work either. The part where you'd try and clamp it to the aero bars is a weird aero / non-standard handlebar shape.

I've got a park HCW-5 tool. If it's a stubborn ring, the three tooth end can grab three notches at once and I've been able to pop off all lock rings without too much difficulty. It's cheap and effective.

Park lockring tool is the standard for this kind of stuff. I like the Hozan version of the tool myself since it's forget but the park one works fine. Nashbar and other discount shops should have a similar one too.

This is what you'll want to use: Amazon Link

If the bottom bracket is loose, you need to remove the crank arm(s) and tighten it. I'm guessing you don't have a crank arm remover or the correct adapter for the BB cups.

Although it'd be extremely helpful down the line to own all the tools you need for this, it'll be a lot faster and cheaper just to take it to a shop and let them figure out what's loose and what needs to be done to fix it. If you want to do it yourself, you need the following:

• Crank Puller
  
  
• BB Cup Tool
  
  
• Torque Wrench
  
  
• 8mm Allen wrench socket
  
  Use the torque wrench! If you don't, you can over-tighten and crack the BB cups, and press the crank arm onto the spindle too far.

In addition to the other advice here, I would recommend picking up a chain wear checker (example). Use it every once in a while, and it'll tell you when you need to replace the chain, before the worn chain tears up the gears too badly.

One set of gears should last 3 or 4 chains if you keep your chains lubed and replace them when they wear out, but if you keep waiting until the chain starts skipping, you're likely to need new gears with every new chain.

As everyone already said, you need a new freewheel.

I cant tell if thats a 6 or 7 speed freewheel, but here is the 6 speed and
here is the 7 speed part you want.

and you need this to get it off.

There are a million freewheel replacement videos on youtube that you can watch to see how its done. Once you get the old one off ( and it will be a bitch to get off... most freewheels are) popping on the new one is stupid easy.

Even if it wasn't possible to bend it back (I've bent worse back and they worked fine) you can just leave it there and install a derailleur claw adapter like they use on cheap bikes and then you're off to the races. This works with any frame that has old-school horizontal dropouts. The only trick in the case of this surly would be getting the adjuster screws out and replaced with a shorter one.