Best products from r/blackpowder

So you have heard good things about their guns?

About drilling the vent. This isn't a big deal at all but one thing you MUST do is use a center punch before drilling so that your bit won't wander. I find that even if I'm using a drill press a nice dimple makes it so much easier. I use this one.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-89-Stainless-Adjustable/dp/B003Y3BU86/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506537660&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=automatic+center+punch&psc=1

It's not too expensive and works well. Of course is you have the bank buy a nice starret. I love their tools and have a few micrometers made by them.

Contact https://www.tvmnatchez.com/. They are in Natchez MS and may be willing to help or advise you. Depending on where you are in Louisiana that may not be helpful. They are good people though. I also build Kentucky longrifles professionally though i am in northern Mississippi. If they can’t help you feel free to Dm me and I will help as I can.

Also check out Recreating the American Longrifle https://www.amazon.com/dp/0873871073/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hDEwDbNH9HSJM

Its is a fantastic and detailed guide to making a rifle like this.

I've built a Traditions flintlock pistol and followed these videos to get my bearings on what to do. part 1 part 2. Here is a different series of videos I referenced: part 1

Your kit does not look radically different from the level of completeness from the Traditions, so give those a watch to get a sense. Remember that getting it functional is not difficult, and you can spent as much time finishing it to perfection as your patience allows. By hours, you're looking at shaping the stock to fit your separate parts.

When you get sandpaper, I found a wood turning box where you rip off what you need as you go was handy.

Good luck!

I have a conversion cylinder that lets me fire 45 ACP in my 1858 Rem. and they fire great out of it. Now to crush the bullets in the cylinder for just using them over black powder in the original cylinder, I think it is possible. The copper jackets are thinner on Hollow-points than Full Jacketed bullets. I wouldn't try ramming them with the guns rammer, I think it would be best to use a loading press for the job. It would allow you to exert lots more pressure onto the bullet to crush it into the cylinder. As far as accuracy, well to tell you the truth, I get best groups with Hornady lead balls. For fouling I don't really have a problem by using Wonder-wads under the ball. It keeps the rifling's and barrel clean. I also use 4 ffff powder since it burns completely up. Yes, I know, hundreds have said it is "Priming" powder only, but I find I can fire a whole box, (100) balls at shooting session and have no issues with gummy, or foul barrel and cylinder. I was out of 3fff and just used this as a substitute and found I got better velocity, tighter groups, and a cleaner gun. It works for me, I like it. My stainless Steel revolver handle's the extra Ompf too !

https://www.amazon.com/Traditions-Performance-Firearms-Revolver-Cylinder/dp/B000PW45GS/ref=sr_1_1?hvadid=77859219962461&hvbmt=bb&hvdev=c&hvqmt=b&keywords=black+powder+revolver+loading+stand&qid=1563378788&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Blackpowder-Products-Inc-AC1461-Bullet/dp/B000G7984G

you need something like that, a ramrod that it will fit, a pair of vice grips and a hammer. ive removed many lead balls. its pretty darn easy. just clamp the vice grips onto the ram rod, and hammer the vice grips up, let the gravity hold the gun in place, or have someone hold it.

you really dont need to treat this thing like an IED.

Probably the best product to coat your barrel with to prevent rust is Renaissance Wax. This is what museums use to protect metal, and other, objects in their collections.

I found the book "Flintlocks: A Practical Guide to Their Use and Application" really one of the best resources for learning blackpowder (outside of a mentor).

I carry mine in a Triple K holster and i love it.

Thanks for all the info!! As for bullets, should I start with round balls or minie balls? And what wadding? Also, is this the volumetric powder measure? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00162JL0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k9dtDbW1QX7KT

Whereabouts are you located? If you're located near Pittsburgh there is a class that teaches you how from CCAC. It's called stock carving and construction.


A semester back there was a fella building a blunderbuss very similar to that one cpt the barrel in the K4 blunderbuss kit you got there is an Ed Rayl steel barrel where he had an Ed Rayl Brass barrel. A local fella is doing Damascus steel classes and I kinda want to do a blunderbuss barrel out of that, but life.


We use the books:


The Gunsmith of Grenville County: Building the American Longrifle


and


[The Art Of Building The Pennsylvania Longrifle]
(https://www.amazon.com/Art-Building-Pennsylvania-Longrifle/dp/B002DVKDH4)


Also as for tools, for the K4 you really don't need much, files, drill, maybe a bandsaw, sandpaper, and a ton of elbow grease. You could look at weeklong workshops as well: https://www.longrifle.com/the-workshop-classes-building-longrifles/

It's "Hawken," not "Hawkens."

You need to do a lot of research on shooting black powder guns. You should start with this book.

The book linked above is legit. Also:

The Gunsmith of Grenville County: Building the American Longrifle, Revised Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/0985796901/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OKEwDbJQRCT65

Have you pulled a patched ball from the barrel yet with one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/Thompson-Center-Caliber-Bullet-Puller/dp/B000LC5N90

They are pure lead.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006O74XQ0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524018667&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=crosman+pellets

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H9LT2M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I epoxied it into the nylon block and then used a bolt for a breech plug.

This is a book i found that might help. Also check out The Gunsmith of Grenville County: Building the American Longrifle. For a video with barrel forging in try this

Yes the steel is cheap and the machining is the part you are paying for, but you are also paying for it being designed to handle the pressure of being shot. As a Mechanical Engineer, I can tell you are taking a huge risk in using a pipe as a barrel. The pipe isn't meant for the stresses that you want it to go through and yes it might work for a while but it could fail and kill you. The guys who it blew up on never get to make a video.