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Sure.

First, to give credit where it's due, the stencil's were not my originals, they can be found with a google image search. Thanks to MaliceMurder at deviantart for the figure stencil. I don't know the source on the text stencil, but thank to you too, whoever you are. I made a few changes to the stencils and then used PosteRazor to scale it up and print on multiple pages. PosteRazor is a really useful utility that's mentioned in one of the tutorials here on /r/bleachshirts. It breaks up an image into multiple pages that can be printed out and attached. It's great for large stencils.

I used Reynolds Freezer Paper for the templates. This stuff provides a really good bond to the shirt. It's not the same as wax paper. Freezer paper has one side with wax on it and just paper on the other side. Wax paper has wax on both sides, ironing wax paper will also melt the wax on the top and will stick to the iron, often pulling the stencil back up. I just wanted to emphasize that as it caused me some problems as I was learning the process.

The first layer was an outline of the entire stencil, with no inner details at all. Basically, just an Alice shaped hole in the freezer paper. I used a 50/50 bleach/water mix and sprayed from about 8 inches up in a fine mist to try and keep it even. I let it get to a middle level of color and then rinsed, washed and dried the shirt.

The second layer was all the lighter parts, the inner part of the dress, her skin, the knife and the buckles on the boots. Her mouth, pockets, and necklace were floaters, the necklace didn't have to be, but was easier to get in place as a separate piece. When lining up the second stencil I used the top of the dress at her neck and the sides of her arms to get it in place. Those were the parts that exactly overlapped the edges of the first layer. I cut the section with the buckles away and attached that piece separately. Last, I put in the floaters by hand and ironed those down. I bleached the second layer in the same way as the first, but then I used a hair dryer to heat it up some as it was bleaching and increase the reaction. Once it was as light as I wanted I rinsed, washed and dried it again.

The back text section was last. I used a single layer stencil on that with the same procedure as above. For the text (and some of the curves in the first two stencils) I mostly used a swivel knife. The blade moves in the head of the knife and is really useful for curved lines. It takes a little getting used to, but it flows better around curves than a normal x-acto.

I think that's about it. Hope it helps.

I think you've already got your answer, but a couple of tips for you. A travel spray bottle works the best for me.

http://www.amazon.com/Travel-Size-Spray-Bottle-oz/dp/B003XW0TG2

It produces a nice fine mist. Spray from 6-8 inches away and move across your stencil as you spray. After each "coat" blot the paper with a paper/cloth towel. I wait 30 seconds or so between each coat. And usually apply 3-4 coats. After the last coat I rip off the paper and put the shirt on a hanger to "develop" to the color I want. The misting spray bottle give great coverage and an even look.

Good luck and post some finished shirts.

So, most people here recommend a spray bittle with adjustable nozzles like this or this.
I have never used these. At first it was out of necessity because I couldn't find any in my house and I wanted to make my first shirt that night.
Well, my mother and sisters had empty hair and makeup product bottles like these and these.
They almost always have a finer spray. I say almost because sometimes they drip. I would always fill them with water and give a first test sprays over to the sink to see how it sprays. Make sure your finger is clear of the spray so that doesn't cause drip as well.

If you find one you like be sure to rinse it out after each use, spray clean water through it, so the bleach doesnt degrade the plastic and cause it to spray weird patterns.

I posted links to uk amazon however, ask friends or family if they have hair or make up products in similar bottles and if you can have them when they're done if you can't order them or find them in stores.

When using these it takes two or three sprays between blots instead of one because of how fine the mist is.

This is my recommendation. Let me know if you have any questions.

So I finally got round to making some shirts after lurking for months. These are 100% cotton FOTL shirts, using a 60:40 bleach water mix.

They turned out ok, I definitely overdid it on the Peace one, I think I was worried about coverage due to the size of it. So some of the bleeding and seeping through the freezer paper can be seen.

The British Sea Power bear turned out a bit better, barely any bleeding, but unfortunately for some reason the top left of the image didn't seem to get as good a coverage as the rest, so it's a bit patchy. Very happy with the colour change though, I wanted it white and it went white!

Next time I won't bleach on such a breezy day I think. Also I have issues with my spray bottle, as even on mist setting it usually spits out a few drops at the end of each trigger pull (a couple of blotches on the bear are easily seen). Any recommendations for bottles? I used this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/SIBEL-Ball-water-spray-bottle/dp/B003WJH7HA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1372208131&sr=8-4&keywords=sibel+spray+bottle

Oh sweet, that's a great substitute! This seems like a pretty good deal.

I actually use this fingertip one although mine has a smaller blade, and I got it at Joann fabrics! I definitely recommend it, gives you really good control and it’s super comfortable

one of the roller's advantages over the brush is even paint application (meaning, no streaks). on top of having a wider area (usually) so applications are faster.

depending on what type of material you used for the stencil, the methods differ.

if you used a freezer paper stencil, just make sure to iron it well. you can always test the adhesion by pulling/tugging at a corner (no where near the actual stencil of course). my general rule of ironing is that i should be able to go end to end with the iron and not have the iron snag on a corner of the stencil.

i've been using overhead transparencies (for reusable stencils) and i'm using elmers (i think, might be 3m) spray adhesive. i always make sure to apply a good portion of body weight on it by placing a large flat object (tray/book) and pressing on it.

if your stencil shifted, while applying paint, it's probably because there was no adhesive material to actually have the stencil stick to the shirt. just pinning the stencil to a backing isn't enough, especially if you're brushing. the shirt/stencil will (probably) wiggle.

also, if you're using acrylic paint on the fabric, it will fade/chip pretty fast. i'd suggest making the move/adjustment to fabric paint. personally, i'm a big supporter of fabric spray paint.

edit: i'm also a big supporter of several thin layers of paint vs applying it all in one go. it's entirely possible with the stencil you had, if you had let it dry a bit and painted some more white, it could've looked more even.

My process:

• Wash and dry shirts before anything else.
  
  
• I use an X-Acto knife to cut out my stencils. Note, I still use freezer paper. I just ordered one of these to replace my standard knife.
  
  
• Make sure shirts are nice and flat when you iron the freezer paper onto them. Any small bumps or creases could allow leakage around the edges.
  
  
• Let your iron heat up for a few minutes before using it, it makes a huge difference. Also, no steam setting should be used! You want everything to be dry.
  
  
• When ironing, I start from the center of the design and work my way outward. This decreases your chances of having bubbles in the paper.
  
  
• Iron the freezer paper on for at least thirty seconds.
  
  
• When you are ready to spray, get a piece of cardboard and place it inside the shirt, directly behind the design. This helps prevent the bleach from soaking through if you are doing a one-sided shirt.
  
  
• Many people use a 50/50 or 60/40 mixture of bleach and water. I use a slightly stronger, maybe around 75/25 mixture. Be careful though, it may damage the shirt if left on for too long.
  
  
• Before spraying, I lay old dish towels around the edges of the stencil to block over spray from outlining unwanted edges on the shirt.
  
  
• When spraying, I have found this to be the most helpful. Forget adjustable spray bottles or brushes. I haven't had any luck with them. Think of this, when it rains, a nice gentle rain soaks the ground well. A rushing torrent of rain yields high amounts of runoff and erosion.
  
  
• Spray a little bit from a height of around 8-12 inches (20-30cm), let it sit for a few seconds, then gently dab off excess with an old dish towel. Do your best to prevent the bleach from soaking through the freezer paper. This will ruin the shirt. If you spray too heavily, it soaks in around the edges and you don't get nice lines. Repeat spraying until you get your target color.
  
  
• To rinse, have a 5 gallon (~20 L) bucket of water mixed with a little bit of hydrogen peroxide. The hydrogen peroxide mixes with the bleach and yields salt water and oxygen gas, which stops the bleach from reacting with the shirt. Dunk the shirt in until soaked, then peel off the freezer paper. The water should loosen it quite easily.
  
  
• Wash and dry the shirts again, and voila! You have nice new shirts.
  
  
  I hope some of this helps. My first couple shirts weren't too great, but experimenting has given me the process I typed out above. If you have any other questions, don't hesitate. :)
  
  EDIT: Formatting.

This is far better stuff than that waxed stuff. It's what we all use over here. It is backed with polyethylene so it doesn't bleed through any cracks that form, and removes cleanly. Over here we can get it at Walmart, but I get mine in the hunting section of the sporting goods store. you can get it at Amazon UK.
Freezer Paper

Edit: Thanks, Bot!, Thanks, Coffee!

I'd go for large sized label paper, freezer paper is a lot of work for something that may not even adhere properly. I'm not sure if you can get a bigger size but I'm sure you can make a larger design over multiple sheets if you're using a cutter. If you want something that's reusable, I'd experiment with thin plastic sheets, thin wood sheets and some sort of spray or liquid adhesive that's water soluble. Good luck mate.

These are cheap but well-built, and a five-pack of blades costs something like two dollars. I have two and they're the best craft knives I've ever owned.

I use lamination sleeves (specifically Amazon Basic laminating pouches, but doubt it matters). Run them through the laminator empty so it fuzes the two halves, they are perfect (for me anyway). Last forever, I have a couple of designs that I have done over 100 shirts with. I use 3M Repositionable adhesive spray, and just respray when it isn't sticky enough anymore. I rinse them off and stick them to freezer paper and file them in a cabinet for storage.

AmazonBasics Thermal Laminating Pouches - 8.9-Inch x 11.4-Inch, Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWU3HNY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

You can get a cheap laminator machine for like $20. I guess as a side bonus, you can also laminate stuff.

Instead of using sheet protectors, get a roll of 3 millimeter mylar/duralar. I got the idea from 3mil_mylar, he does some good stuff. Over all, the stuff is cheaper than buying sheet protectors, and allow for much bigger stencils. I got mine from a seller on amazon here. It also works great with a heat based stencil cutter. As for adhering the stencil to the shirt, just use spray adhesive on the back of the stencil, wait for it to get dry and tacky, and then put the stencil on the shirt and cover your edges. Adhesive spray directly on the shirt will get icky and may not come off.

You can get an iron for around $10. Freezer Paper is around $8. Your shirts will come out much better using the proper tools. Good luck!

X-acto swivel knife for circles and the like:
http://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-X3253-Designer-Series-Swivel/dp/B001KZH27I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342356227&sr=8-2&keywords=x+acto+swivel

X-acto swivel knife refills:
http://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-X253-Designer-Series-Replacement/dp/B001KZH27S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342356227&sr=8-1&keywords=x+acto+swivel

X-acto straight blade with refills:
http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3311-Precision-Knife-Blades/dp/B0000DD1N4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1342356200&sr=8-5&keywords=x+acto

Those are the blades I started with, and they work great for me.

You can find Freezer Paper on Amazon!

As for how long you left the bleach on: I don't take NEARLY that much time! I spritz a pretty moderate amount of 50/50 on, let it soak for maybe 5-10 seconds, dab it off, and repeat. Do that for like three or four times, and it should work a lot better. When you're done, dunk it in water.

The bleedthrough, I guarantee you, is being worsened by the fact that you left it on for 30 minutes.

I have been using the little pump spray bottles that come in a travel kit from the dollar store.

Like these. http://www.amazon.com/Travel-Size-Spray-Bottle-oz/dp/B003XW0TG2

I've had two wear out on me but given their cheapness, I just keep a few extras on hand and at the first sign that it's shooting droplets instead of a mist, I toss it.

Thanks! I used this Fiskars exacto knife, and a metal ruler when I was cutting. :-) At some point, I'll probably buy the swivel version.

It looks like you're trying to format a word into a link. Try this instead:

> [Freezer Paper](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Reynolds-Freezer-Paper-Plastic-Coated/dp/B00EME5KZ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501581704&sr=8-1&keywords=freezer+paper)

Result: Freezer Paper

***

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I think a good place to start would be with the Freezer Paper. I had a difficult time finding it, but the Reynolds paper worked really well for me.

Try a local butcher's shop. They often don't have clear freezer paper, but brown unbleached freezer paper. It took a lot of work to find somewhere that actually has freezer paper out here in BC. Also, Amazon looks like it sells it in Canada, but it is expansive as balls

Link for UK/EU

Link for USA

Should be what you're looking for and it works very well, not too much either

I've not tried parchment paper before, so I don't know. I've used wax paper once which was a terrible mistake, and since then I've ONLY used freezer paper. You can get it through Amazon Canada here. I don't know how much cash you have, or how expense this is vs USD, but this will make you a goodly number of shirts (depending on big of a design you use. I've done 4 shirts so far, and I easily have enough paper for 7-10 more remaining.

Is something like this what you're talking about?

I had the same issue, but it turns out that you can find anything on amazon nowadays.

Get it from amazon
http://www.amazon.ca/Reynolds-391-75Sqft-Freezer-Paper/dp/B000BZYCNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421879637&sr=8-1&keywords=freezer+paper

I got mine off Amazon, only took a couple of days to arrive!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Reynolds-Freezer-Paper-Plastic-Coated/dp/B00EME5KZ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427828218&sr=8-1&tag=steal-20&keywords=freezer+paper