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For the exterior, here is a copy and paste of a previous post of mine. Everyone may give you slightly different advice as there are many valid ways to do this. This routine has worked very well for me for many years.

• Clean well with soap and water and a good microfiber cloth. (removes all dirt and oil build up.)
  
• Dry it with another cloth. I like a big cotton towel.
  
• Clean with a good oxalic acid based cleaner such as Star Bright hull cleaner, or The works tub and tile cleaner(NOT THE TOILET CLEANER) Applying with a one gallon pump up sprayer works great for me. Rinse well. This removes any rust stains.
  
• Dry again.
  
• Buff with an oxidation remover. I like this one. I apply with a 10 inch random orbital buffer and application bonnet, and remove while still slightly wet with the same buffer and a wool bonnet. In heavily oxidized areas you may need to do this more than once. If you do not have oxidation, feel free to skip this step.
  
• Next buff again with a cleaner wax. I like this one same process as above, but let it dry to a haze before removing.
  
• This will leave you with a clean hull and a nice shine, if you want an even deeper shine, make one more buffing pass with a nice marine wax. I like this one
  
  It sounds like a lot of work, but once I got the process down, I found I could do all of these steps on a entire 23' boat in less than 4 hours, and it leaves it looking like new.
  
  Edit: I forgot to mention, for the outside of the windows I like this stuff. It cleans as well as a normal glass cleaner, and causes any water that hits the windshield to bead up and run off. This is a nice bonus for many boats as they often do not have windshield wipers.

If you're serious about that, first off I applaud your dream. :) All of the other comments are showing excellent advice, I would add some study as you begin this planning process. The first step in something like this, is education.

You'll want a few things.

The single most important thing for you on any boat is get the absolute best life jacket you can afford. Personally I use this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019YDWO0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Like you, I can't swim, but I spend my summers on the water. This is the type of lifejacket used by professionals. Get one, it's not optional.

Read this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/0071808280/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You're going to come upon a thousand words you don't yet know. Every time you do, google it, wikipedia it, and study it. Vocabulary is the pathway to new knowledge, and the depths of what you don't yet know, will drown you. Take your time, don't get discouraged, and realise that the most important tools for your survival at sea are your wits and your confidence. Don't Panic.

Get this, it's your new bible. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/0688148921/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Memorise it, really. If you have to pick any single book to have as a new boater (especially a sailboat), this is it.

This is also one you'll need. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/0071829326/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And to begin your engineering education (you'll need it), get this. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/0071446443/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I own all of these books, and as we begin the winter this is an excellent opportunity to study and learn and wait for warmer weather.

Keep dreaming. :) You're on the right path. You'll find that most boaters are happy to talk and answer questions. Ask LOTS of questions, listen to everyone, and in time you'll have enough of a collection of knowledge to sort out the good ideas from the bad ones. The more you can learn from other people's mistakes, the easier your boating life will be. The problem with wisdom is that you don't get it until about 5 seconds after you really needed it.

Stay safe, but live dangerously. :)

1. Wire wise - Amazon - look up Anchor Tinned Wire and get a 25' section of 8ga 2 wire red/black at biggest (radio, plus lights, plus accessories ) but 12ga with 2 wires should be fine for small electronics.
   
   
   Example:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-121510-Marine-Duplex-Cables/dp/B000NUYBW0/
   
   
2. Lack of a Switch or Disconnect - don't do this. A) Danger Will Robinson ! B) is not approved by coasties/inspection most places. Get a proper battery switch. Put this switch between the battery Positive and the motor positive and your accessories positive. The ground/black from the motor, from the accessories etc can all go right to the negative terminal on the battery. We're only switching the 12+ Positive side.
   
   
   Example:
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Perko-8501DP-Marine-Battery-Selector/dp/B00144B6AE
   
   
   
   
   I say these things for the following reasons:
   
   
3. you'll eventually wanna sell the boat and upgrade to something bigger. When I as a buyer see things like accessory wiring going right to the battery instead of a battery switch - I use items like that to lowball the fuck out of the seller. It also says "if they did this janky to save $20, what else did they do janky" ?
   
   
   
4. Safety - you always need a way to 100% disconnect electronics. This can be because of a fire, a mystery battery drain, long term storage etc. We want a disconnect from the battery. Now that said - plugging and unplugging a quick connect/ disconnect versus a proper battery switch is a GREAT way to blow yourself up depending where the gas fumes are, where your gas tank is, etc. It's one more possible thing to corrode as well as ignite. Make sure when you do your charging etc you are careful (connect the tender first THEN plug it into the wall outlet)
   
   
   
5. Long term usage - the more correct you do it now, the more money you save in the long run making small repairs later.
   
   
   
   Wiring Example:
   
   
   https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRrykWkGL7Y6N6zwAiDNcYPNvgQglOC4aJx0ntB9qn2Iv_INk1TUQ

Depends on what you want, I have a 16' SmokerCraft and didn't really want to install speakers into the sides or floors because in most locations it would take up the little storage space I have.

I ended up ordering two pairs of these speakers and mounting them on the deck (two on the stern deck on each side, and one on the bow in deck in the center)

Then I mounted this Kenwood bluetooth amplifier under my dash and installed the remote on my dash (I actually made a custom dash to rearrange gauges and support a Lowrance unit, so I added a spot for the remote)


I don't have any good pictures that show the speakers, so I will try and snag one or two when I get home from work if you'd like. This setup has been awesome so far and for the price of the speakers they actually sound perfect (for the use case). You won't be able to hear very well while driving, but for trolling/floating/etc. they are perfect

The 7-pin connector is specifically for trailers with brakes or other power requirements. The 4-pin connectors control lights only, the extra pins on the 7-pin actuate the breaks and provide extra power for things like charging breakaway boxes or running RV refrigerators.

Being a 40-foot trailer, I don't see how there is any way that it would not weigh enough to require brakes, no matter the state. There would be no way to rewire the trailer to use a 4-pin connector and actuate the brakes. Even having a 7-pin connector on the truck would be no guarantee that the brakes are being actuated - most require an aftermarket brake controller be wired in.

If you are comfortable with the lack of braking and just need to do short pulls, it would be a relatively simple process to parallel a 4-pin connector onto the 7-pin trailer wiring so that you could at least have lights. Something like this:

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Wesbar/W787268.html?feed=npn&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiPG_r8G_4AIVQ1YNCh3MwwHPEAQYASABEgKr5_D_BwE

with these

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y

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Your lights would work and you'd avoid the attention of the fuzz, but I'd be careful about running around without brakes on a 40-foot trailer very often.

Good luck!

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EDIT: I ran across this that would solve your problem too, I think. A little clunkier, but plug and play. Same issue with not actually having brakes, though.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Mighty-Cord/A10-7084VP.html

Rockford Fosgate has a few compact digital media receivers that will fit in the slot. From basic ones to fancy ones with a screen. I've played with a few of these and they work well. I've had good luck personally and professionally with RF. Here's one https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PMX-3-Compact-Receiver/dp/B06Y19L9TM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549053137&sr=8-3&keywords=rockford+fosgate+marine+radio

You can do a combo like this for pretty close to your budget. The boat itself is surprisingly resilient, collapses down to a (heavy) bag for your apartment. Motor mounts on securely. Plan for some occasional vinyl repairs, and you have to deal with a battery and charging, but it'll putt you around until you want to get into something more permanent. I use this as a dinghy for a powerboat and it works great. I added a small solar panel ($75) and converter unit ($15) so it charges the battery when it's parked for a while.

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Intex Excursion 5

https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Excursion-5-Person-Inflatable-Aluminum/dp/B00CMBJ1VE/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536084088&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=intex+boat&psc=1

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Intex electric trolling motor

https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Trolling-Motor-Inflatable-Boats/dp/B005QIB7K8/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1536084206&sr=1-5&keywords=intex+trolling+motor

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Motor mount

https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Motor-Mount-inflatable-Boats/dp/B000NNM4BW/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1536084263&sr=1-5&keywords=Intex+Motor+Mount+Kit+inflatable+Boats

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So I bought a used 2008 pontoon last year, and decided to do a budget update to get her ready for the new season. Tried to keep it under $1000, but the last minute decision to get a new Bimini put the project over that.
For those curious, here are the materials I used.
60' of .030 black aluminum paneling: $295 from Pontoonfence.com

Nav Lights:$20
Docking Lights: $30. I'm keeping an eye on these. Some reviews complained of them not being waterproof. I ran a bead of silicone around the lens and where the wires enter the body. Hoping they hold up.
Waterproof LED Strip Lights $40 for two sets. I'm really happy with these.
LED RGB control wires $9

Polk DB651 6.5" Speakers $118 ($59/pair)
Kenwood Marine Bluetooth Amplifier $135
Pyle Marine speaker wire $9
Engine Parts (Plugs, Impeller, Lube) $40
Power wash rental: $30

Misc expenses (mounting tape, nonskid tape, screws, bolts, etc) ~$100

Replacement Bimini and boot from restorepontoon.com $219
Total: $1,045

>Yea, someone else said that..didn't think about that b4 but that might be perfect actually..something like this I guess..
>
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9RNM1D

We decided just to go for jet skis. If I cant lift myself back up on the jetski if I fall off can I just use this and where could i safely attach to my buddies jetski so he could tow me and the jetski to the shore so I can hop back on? any advice greatly appreciated. don't want to be stranded out in the water... or attach a tow rope to somewhere it might break or snap something off..

https://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Strap-Hooks-Towing-Recovery/dp/B00L5RMPT6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496949517&sr=8-3&keywords=tow+rope

Chapman Piloting and Seamanship is a great resource. At times it is almost too thorough and might be a little much to carry with you. I recommend taking someone with experience with you instead of relying on a manual for the first time or two though.

Yes, that is a very good product. I've used it many times. If there are any spots and scuffs that don't come out then you can use this just in spots https://www.amazon.com/Star-Brite-One-Step-Heavy-Cleaner/dp/B00144AQS2/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3MS30QUCOHNMJ&dchild=1&keywords=starbrite+cleaner+wax+ptef&psc=1&qid=1571246776&sprefix=starbrite+clean%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-2 . Basically same stuff with some actual polish in it.

Motor looks in very good condition.


Even on a motor that old there should be a plate with a serial on it, if you can get a picture of that and comment to let me know youve posted it i can take a look.


I work at A marina and have seen a lot of evinrude's over the years, but i think an earlier commenter was correct in saying this is 70's era.


Also The other comment about checking lower unit grease spark plugs, and carb are correct. Most likely it is going to need a carb overhaul, or at the very least pulled apart and thoroughly cleaned. If you are not confident in small mechanics look in your local craigslist for a "Small motor" Repairmen, typically these guys work on lawn mowers and chain saws, or other small items. But they should be fairly familliar with tearing apart the carb and cleaning it. Ask them before you take it to them though. Ask specifically if they will be able to reassemble the carb as is. As parts for a motor that old are hard to come by.


Also in terms of lower unit grease stop into a shop and pick up some 80w 90 gear lube. Order thishttps://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Marine-Pump-Lower-Unit/dp/B004UOPZ9S/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hand%2Bgear%2Blube%2Bpump&qid=1572987230&sr=8-3&th=1


The screw for your lower unit is at the very bottom down below the drive shaft for the prop, also once youve removed that screw there should be one just above the cavitation plate. i can actually see the top screw in your picture its on the top half of your lower unit. Remove that so that the grease will drain faster. Once it is empty plug your grease into the BOTTOM screw, and pump until it comes out the TOP screw. Pump a few extra times to ensure all air bubbles are forced out the top screw. Then before removing the grease from the bottom screw, replace your top screw. Then pull your grease out of the bottom screw and quickly replace the bottom screw.


It should be noted as well there should be a small gasket on each of these screws to ensure a good seal is made. Make sure both these gaskets are there and if they arent i would head for the local hardware store and find one that just fits on snug and is about the size of the head of the screw.


In terms of your spark plugs. Pull them out, and take them to a local auto parts store, napa, autozone, oreilys or something like that see if they have them in stock, if not see if they can order them. If you are not familliar with gaping the plugs yourself, ask if someone at the store would be willing to gap them for you.


I am assuming this is a 2 stroke motor. I would remove the old oil, and just replace it with new. Doesnt much matter the brand just any two stroke outboard engine oil.

After all of this, I would bet that motor will fire up and still run quite nicely. There really isnt much that can go wrong on these little older motors.


Oh if you have the old gas tank, pitch it. Get a new one. With a new line. Keep the line and tank around so that you can reference the connections to make sure you get the right ones once you are ready to replace them.

I do this all the time on my boat.

I use a generic go pro action camera (about $40 amazon) and either a suction mount on the windshield or a clamp mount on the canopy top. (I also use a fish leader as a safety wire). Example:

https://www.amazon.com/Vemont-Underwater-Waterproof-Mounting-Accessories/dp/B07DVX1HQM/ref=sr_1_7?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1536609355&sr=1-7&keywords=action+camera&dpID=51kj2Am3pIL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I run a long usb cable to the glove box and have a $20 usb power bank powering the unit all day. Example: https://www.amazon.com/KMASHI-15000mAh-External-Portable-Powerful/dp/B00JP8MZGK/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1536609258&sr=8-19&keywords=usb+power+bank

I set the action cam to run all day and use the setting to record either 3 minute or 5 minute clips continuously.

OK, we are going to try to get one of these. How to I know which one is the correct one?

https://www.amazon.com/Perko-8501DP-Marine-Battery-Selector/dp/B00144B6AE/ref=lp_2598388011_1_1?srs=2598388011&ie=UTF8&qid=1554134911&sr=8-1

I suppose the cables go on the same way?

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I use this : http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M4916-Marine-Oxidation-Remover/dp/B0000AY4YX

You likely have a battery selector switch. You only need 1 battery. The other is a backup. If you run your trolling motor, livewell, stereo, etc you might kill the battery. In that case you would just switch to the other battery.