Best products from r/cableadvice

We found 24 comments on r/cableadvice discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 160 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

5. eBoot 100 Pieces Adhesive Cable Clips Wire Clips Cable Wire Management Wire Cable Holder Clamps Cable Tie Holder for Car, Office and Home

    Features:
  • CONCEALING & PROTECTION OF FLOOR CABLE: The black floor cable cover can successfully conceal and protect cables, cords as well as wires, which is conducive to maintenance of keeping the floor areas clean and safe. Therefore, it can effectively prevent cables, cords and wires from being exposed under external environment.
  • SAFE & NON-TOXIC MATERIAL: This type of floor cord protector is made of PVC which is proved to be strong, tough, non-toxic and slight smell material for people to use. In addition, PVC does not conduct electricity and it is an excellent substance to use for electrical applications.
  • LENGTH, WIDTH & HEIGHT: Each unit of this floor cable protector is 6.5 feet long, the height is 0.67 inches and the external width is 3.27 inches. It’s long and wide enough to cover the cables, wires or cords well. Please check the size of your cables or cords first before placing an order.
  • YELLOW WARNING LINE: There is two bright yellow stripes runs along on the top of the floor cable cover for its visibility and safety, thus it serves as a warning role to tell people to pay attention to that sign and in case of tripping over by accident.
  • IDEAL FOR INDOORS & OUTDOORS: The floor cable cover or cord proctor can be used as electrical cable protector or extension cord cover, which definitely perfects for both indoors and outdoors surroundings like home, office, workshop, warehouse, concert or any other outdoor environment.
eBoot 100 Pieces Adhesive Cable Clips Wire Clips Cable Wire Management Wire Cable Holder Clamps Cable Tie Holder for Car, Office and Home
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Top comments mentioning products on r/cableadvice:

u/yahooguy · 3 pointsr/cableadvice

The below is all a reflection of my daily use tools.

  • I use the MS2-100 every day for every single drop I pull, or custom cable I make, so it's a good call. It can also apply tone to a drop if you need to trace. It doesn't actually certify the cables, but that's only an issue if your customer specifies certification. If you need more than just that, be prepared to spend several thousand.
  • Fiberglass rods with the end that look like a whisk, like Greenlee 11426. The whisk end helps above drop ceilings and in cable trays.
  • A short fish tape too, like 20'; sometimes easier than rods.
  • The Stingray cable is an absolute life saver in drop ceilings, so great call there.
  • Good electrical tape. The cheap stuff just isn't worth it. 3m super 33+ or super 88.
  • A good drywall/jab saw. It's actually surprising how hard it is to use that same 10 year old jab saw that's been in your bag forever and seen daily use compared to a new one.
  • A bucket of string. Leave yourself a pull string where you think it would help you in the future. Not every pull needs a sting left for future, but sometimes it's useful. Especially handy in really difficult pull areas for future pulls. You can also tie a roll of electrical tape on the string and throw it towards your destination; sometimes that is way faster than fiberglass rods if you have a clear shot.
  • A super bright flashlight. Like 1,000 lumens or brighter. Sounds like overkill until you use one. Then you wonder why maglight even bothers anymore. I'm a fan of this light and this light, both from Fenix.
  • A Greenlee FP3. It's an extendable pocket cable hook. Super handy. If you need a longer cable hook, your fiberglass rods probably came with a hook.
  • Find yourself a small battery drill/screwdriver that you like (I use this Milwaukee, along with a set of extended screwdriver bits. You'll use it way more than you might think.
  • In case you ever encounter security type stuff like door sensors, a good pair of wire strippers than can go as small as 24awg.
  • Also, a Dymo or Brother labeller, and appropriate flexible labels. Combined with a few good sharpies, you can then label everything. NEVER skimp on labelling.
  • A good pair of wire cutters / dykes. Use what you like.
  • A good pocket knife. I actually use a folding knife that uses utility blades. No more sharpening, and a sharp blade is only as far away as the tool bag if it goes dull.

    You may also want to look into J-hooks to either screw to the walls, or attach to the drop ceiling support wires if you don't have a good route already. This one is something you can build into the cost of each job, but you should always keep a few on hand just in case.

    Edit: formatting and links
u/Gozaradio · 2 pointsr/cableadvice

As u/Craigerrs said, the SCART spec can vary from TV to TV especially if it's a cheaper one. Short answer for the PS2 is that you want the TV to support RGB over SCART, then you need to get yourself a Playstation RGB SCART Cable
I can't remember offhand, but I think you need to enable RGB output in the Playstation menu.

For other devices; if it is capable of outputting RGB, you'll almost certainly be able to get this into your TV through SCART regardless of the connector on the other end.

Further detail about the connector:
SCART was a very nifty and clever connector for the analogue A/V age; the analogue equivalent of HDMI in many ways. It supported multiple video signal types, multi-channel audio, and comprehensive control signals through a single 21-pin connector and cable.
French invention from late 70s but became widely used throughout Europe and Middle East (basically PAL zones) by late 80s. I'm in UK and it was ubiquitous here in 90s (still offered as a single connector on some flat screen TVs to this day).

The three most commonly supported video signals supported by the SCART connector were composite (OK), S-Video (Better), and RGB (Best). RGB was especially good for anything involving computer graphics (such as games consoles, home computers and on screen graphics from Set Top Boxes). You could connect SCART to SCART, or any supported signal on a different connector wired to a SCART connector at the other end (eg 3xRCA for composite video and stereo audio, plus an S-Video connector at one end, with SCART at the other)

The control elements are largely defunct now unless you are connecting compatible equipment with a SCART connector but they supported input switching (start playing a tape in your VCR, and the TV would switch on from standby and switch to the correct input and back again once you switch the VCR off).
A set top box could send a signal to a VCR to start and stop recording at appropriate times, a VCR or DVD player could set the TV to switch to the appropriate aspect ratio for the content playing, etc.

There were various other functions such as bidirectional signals but one which was useful in reducing cable clutter was the ability to daisy chain devices and pass through signals. For example, you have a TV, VCR, Satellite receiver, and DVD Player. You want to be able to see all of these on the TV, and you want to be able to record programmes from the satellite receiver. Normally that would be a longer cable from every device to the TV, plus a cable from the satellite receiver to the VCR. To further complicate matters, cheaper TVs often only had 2 or even 1 SCART input. One way around this would be to connect the DVD player to the 2nd SCART on the satellite receiver, then connect the 1st Sat SCART to 2nd SCART on the VCR, then the 1st SCART from VCR to TV. One less cable overall, shorter cables in daisy chain rather than rats nest of longer cables, and fewer SCART sockets required on the TV. It might not seem like much but given how chunky good quality SCART cables and connectors could be, the space saving could make a difference.

I'm going to stop now as I'm sure I've bored most people to tears about SCART but it was an incredible connector with a lot of functionality, you could make your own cables to precise length and requirements, and it even supported HD making it more convenient than 5xRCA for Component plus audio but this was very limited as HDMI was on the march.

u/Orchestral_Design · 3 pointsr/cableadvice

Here is a brief step by step on how to somewhat tame this birds nest of spaghetti.


  1. Unplug everything and start with the power, go from the wall outlet, then to the power strips. Use these to make things look cleaner. Its also a key time to re-organize where you put stuff, as it will ultimately determine your wire management and routing. If it has a bulky power brick, you might want to get this to help with the wall warts.

  2. Now for the audio and video cables your AV switcher is where a lot of them come from so more cable management is good. (pro tip, label the HDMI so you know where its going) I find that cable clips are great for making sure everything stays nice and neat. Velcro Zip Ties are a wonderful thing to have, and you could probably just get by with buying those and nothing else. But if you have slack on a cable, wrap that up like a breakfast burrito.

  3. Networking comes next, and boy howdy it looks like you have a lot. Apply the same technique previously used of unplugging cables (label them prior if you want to make your life easier) and using a cable bundler to make it look clean. In addition, you can probably put some of the routers behind the entertainment center with all the new space you are getting by organizing the other cables.

    Some other things I would say is, put your UPS outside of the entertainment center, those things take up a ton of space and are heavy. If you ever need to unplug something or change the battery it will be very inconvenient. I would place it right next to the entertainment center or behind it. Also consider using double sided 3M foam tape to mount your switch upside down underneath a shelf, that way it frees up some space. Aside from that, theres not much else that I can see being done. I hope this helps. You are contractually obligated by reddit to post the before and after if you decide to tackle this. (not really, but I would love to see the results!)
u/zanfar · 1 pointr/cableadvice

> but I don't know if they sell one with 4 ports.

You can get up to 6 keystone jacks in a 1-gang box

> I thought that I would buy a new rack-mountable switch and patch panel. This is what I've been considering:

Like /u/toaster_knight said, get a vertical or deeper one. I would strongly recommend an actual enclosure with a locking door for an office environment.

I also see no reason to put anything smaller than a 24-port in a rack. It's just a waste of space and money.

I would also recommend at least a SMB-level switch. Yes, they are more expensive, but their uptime and management capabilities are worth it IMO. The Ubiquiti 24-port switch is under $200 IIRC.

> I'm assuming that I can rest the router on top of the switch.

That will probably be fine, but you can get rackmount shelves and drawers as well. The shelf is nice because you can remove the switch without messing about with the router.

> I'd also like to buy some type of cable organizers for inside the ceiling. I normally use those small cable clips, but they seem to be intended for one cable. I've seen velcro used, but I'm not sure how to actually secure the cables.

You can get joist hangers, but inside a ceiling, the cables are usually just bundled and left loose or in a tray. If you have a drop ceiling, there are a wide variety of products designed for your support system.

I would also recommend a UPS and a power distribution panel. UPS for obvious reasons and the power panel will let you easily power cycle each component without having to dig into the back--something that gets much harder after rack-mounting.

u/eskimozach · 1 pointr/cableadvice

I like pmarinel's suggestion and I'm just going to piggy back on his response.

Since Xfinity is your provider, you can use an Arris Surfboard modem to give internet to your router to distribute to your house and through that you can save on not having to pay monthly rental fee's to Xfinity to use their modem.

I would find the coax cable that is most central to your apt (and also has one of the network ports in the wall near it), plug my surfboard modem into that coax, plug my surfboard modem into the WAN/Internet of my router, and then have one of the LAN ports of my router plugged into the wall network port leading to the box you have in the photo, and then plug ports 1, 2, 3, 4 of that black patch box into an unmanaged switch such as this that you can leave in there. Doing all of that would mean your WiFi network would be distributing throughout your apartment from a central location (even coverage), and all network ports in your house would be wired to that same network, and best of all you don't have to waste money paying for Xfinity's monthly equipment rental fees.

If you want suggestions for WiFi routers, let me know and send you a few recommendations. If you apartment is large and you're worried about WiFi from a single device not covering your home well enough, I heard Google Mesh networks are pretty good for that.

u/clickclickbb · 2 pointsr/cableadvice

There's a bunch of different types of P-touch tape available. Have you tried the flexible cable wrap tape from Brother? It works pretty good and if you're making flags they are easier to work with. Its not as stiff as the regular stuff and seems to stick better. This is what Ive been using for years and it works great. Theres also the Extra Strength tape. We've used this before for labeling panels and racks and its actually hard to get off. Its been awhile so I dont remember how stiff it is.

u/MNsharks9 · 2 pointsr/cableadvice

Just get a bunch of cable, 100 feet or so, and run it along the path you want it to be managed to, and then cut it when it gets to the end.

You can use the zip-tie holders with loose zip-ties to hold the cable as you run it before you terminate to give you a real good estimate.

My two favorite cables to use: Mogami 2944 for my permanent mounted stuff, and then Canare L-4E6S for my temporary stuff. The Mogami is nice and thin and very flexible. The Canare is thicker and beefier, but still very flexible, and comes in all sorts of colors for good identification.

Get a nice soldering iron, a Panavise Jr., some solder, and connectors and get to it.

You can also use string as a temporary run from a pedal to your unit and then transfer the length to your cable.

u/simpsons403 · 1 pointr/cableadvice

I think I'd prefer simultaneously. In that case, would something like this do the job, along with some 3.5 mm to 1/4 inch adapters?

EDIT: If you could point out any other mixers then that would be great. Just looking for the best deal while still maintaining decent quality.

u/toaster_knight · 3 pointsr/cableadvice

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PWUS776/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FRsfzbH959867

You can upload the database to it and print them all off. Gives you the ability to choose what type of labeling you want as well.