(Part 2) Best products from r/cableporn

Here’s my write up on JeepForum

This is the fuse block I used

I used 6-position covered terminal blocks similar to these, although I got them for $3/ea at a local store

This was my ground bus bar. it was cheaper when I bought it, and 10-position is nice but I probably could’ve gotten away with less

These are the waterproof sealed relays I would recommend

This is the circuit breaker I wish I used, but I had the 150A on hand. I’ll probably swap it out at some point

Edit: to add on, I used heatshrink on noninsulated female disconnects so that I could have everything properly color coordinated for easier work if I needed to make repairs/modifications in the future. I only used 1/4” Red/Yellow/Black HS on the board :)

EDIT 2: I used the wrong link for my writeup. It's fixed now!

Apollo's guidance calculations aren't really all that computationally intensive. In-atmosphere is more complex than in a vacuum, but you don't need much computing horsepower to go to the moon.

Omega Tau has a great episode on the Apollo guidance computer that goes into a ton of detail on this. Very much worth a listen (the guest's book is also great - https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Guidance-Computer-Architecture-Operation/dp/1441908765).

I'm seeing expensive options on here but in all reality all you need is a fine point pen, good hand writing, and a sticky label sheet. Or go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ZipTape-Wire-Label-Dispenser-markers/dp/B003I7QKUQ/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1549386183&sr=8-10&keywords=cable+label+sheet

Does anybody know what kind of scissors are in this picture? Ive been looking for a good pair for copper but i would like to get some opinions. Any suggestions are helpful.

I have been using these for the past few months but they are at end of life.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-D-Snip-Cable-Scissors/dp/B000E5VAXM

Ive also been using these for fiber which i highly recommend.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017PUY1SE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B017PUY1SE&pd_rd_wg=PeINj&pd_rd_r=HWQ47R16VRGQ54P2XNPS&pd_rd_w=70hPQ

Here's the composition of the rack:

• NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  
• TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  
• Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  
• Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  
• Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  
• 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  
• Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.
  
  Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:
  
  
• Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  
• 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  
• Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  
• Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  
• Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  
• Extra rack screws and washers
  
• J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.
  
  Useful things I learned:
  
  
• I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  
• I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  
• I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  
• Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  
• Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  
• Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  
• Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  
• Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.

just bought a super nice Brady label maker: BMP21-Plus

Maker: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IELD1O4/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cable Labels: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XU7T4E/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Ive yet to open I had a bigger version at my previous job and it was awesome!

Looks like you need this to store the slack. This is great for fiber because it maintains a proper bend radius and its velcro so its ease to add runs:

Leviton 48900-IFR Recloseable Storage Ring, Inside Plant (11.75-inch Diameter)

I dont understand your description very well. (more pictures would be nice) The best solution would be to mount this on a ply wood wall board but I dont think that is an option in your case. So I would suggest putting the slack loop on a rack shelf a couple U down from the patch panel.

StarTech.com 2U Vented Server Rack Mount Shelf - 22in Deep

lmk what you end up doing im curious.

I'm not sure of a set convention. In my IDFs I do patch panel number - port number (so patch panel 1 port 36 would be 1-36). On my user-facing ports I do closet - patch panel - port (so closet 3, patch panel 4, port 28 would be 3-4-28). I personally use vinyl wrap-around labels from this DYMO printer. They work well, are easy to apply, and are hard to remove. In my closets I'll usually only apply the label on the switch side, kind of redundant doing it on the patch side as well.

In the datacenter itself, I usually follow a pretty strict convention for labeling and cable color. Labeling will usually detail the server (VMHOST-01), the port's function (VMGUEST-PROD), the port's VLAN, the NIC it attaches to, and the switch/switchport it attaches to. Usually on both sides of the cable so I can see at a glance, in an emergency situation, what's going where. How detailed you get is usually going to be determined by how large your DC is. Mine's pretty small (under 20 iron servers, maybe 60 VMs total), but the more detail the better.

Brady label printer

This is what I use for everything