(Part 2) Best products from r/cade

It's not that hard to do all by yourself if you're a bit handy. Here are some links to get you started:

Joystick and Button Kit. There are many on ebay, look for best price and type you want - be careful if you get buttons separate from encoders as they have different sized wire connectors. Also see the shipping time as many come from China and may take a month or more to get to you:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Zero-Delay-Arcade-Game-DIY-Kits-Black-LED-Button-Joystick-USB-Encoder-AC1473/232958201621

Raspberry Pi 3 B+:

https://www.amazon.com/RS-Components-Raspberry-Pi-Motherboard/dp/B07BFH96M3

You'll also need a raspberry pi power supply (micro usb), and microsd card (both easily found on Amazon).

There are a lot of monitor choices depending on what you're looking for. You can get an old LCD monitor for cheap but should check the viewing angles if you'd like to use it in portrait mode. If you go that route and the monitor is VGA you'll need a VGA to HDMI converter:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-CableCreation-Female-Converter-NoteBook/dp/B013G4C17G

The Raspberry Pi supports HDMI so any modern monitor would work without the converter.

Alternatively you can get a raw LCD panel by itself and drive it with a converter board:

https://www.amazon.com/Controller-HSD190MEN4-M170EN06-1280x1024-30Pins/dp/B06X9NJ2NR

though it's probably easiest to get an old or new monitor and take it apart or hide everything except the screen with a custom bezel.

In terms of speakers I like these Logitech Z213 2.1 speakers:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Logitech-Z213-2-1-Speakers-for-PC-and-Mobile-Devices-980-000941/181060190908

They are cheap and have good enough sound for the old games and with the sub-woofer it actually sounds better than the old games did. They are amplified and can just plug into a power strip inside the case so no raw wiring to do. Also they have a wired volume control that you could mount somewhere convenient. Just be sure to buy from someone that will accept returns or that is shipping you new product instead of refurbished as I've gotten a couple bad ones.

I also like this power strip as it has enough outlets and USBs to drive everything including the Raspberry Pi:

https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Charger-100-240V-Computer-Transformers/dp/B01JRXRTC2

For one of my builds I also bought USB extension cables and some USB LED lights to use behind the marquee. Using this approach the wiring for everything will be very straightforward. No special electrical stuff to deal with.

You may also want to add a coin door that you could even make work by connecting the coin mechanism to one of the inputs on the joystick controllers:

https://www.amazon.com/Arcade-Coin-Quarter-Acceptor-X-Arcade/dp/B005EN6SUY

Possible software to run:

https://retropie.org.uk/

http://blog.sheasilverman.com/pimame-raspberry-pi-os-download/

Also, there are other options that remove the need for software configuration and joystick calibration that you might want to look into if you're not very technical. Notably Jamma boards which are more ready to go:

https://retroactivearcade.ca/collections/jamma-game-boards

You'd use that rather than the Raspbery Pi and the joystick encoders but you'd still use the same joysticks and buttons. The wiring is a bit more complicated with a Jamma board than with those handy joystick encoders, but still pretty straightforward.

If you have any questions send them my way. I've done a few rebuilds, a brand new machine from scratch and am in the middle of another one from scratch.

It's very rewarding. I even bought a wide format printer so I could print my own graphics on adhesive vinyl and apply it to the cabinets instead of paint.

Also, poke around the net and you'll find PDF plans for your favorite old game cabinet which you can print out and piece together and use as a template to cut the sides of your cabinet. I don't know about you but I'm very nostalgic about the old cabinets, their unique shapes and the creative art from back then so I prefer having a specific machine than a generic one. But to each their own. :)

Good luck!

Yeah, you can buy an ArcadeVGA card, but it's overpriced IMO. I bought a VisionTek Radeon 5450 2GB and used drivers that force it to only output the modes the monitor will support.

I paid like $40 for it on Amazon, better than the $90 for the less powerful ArcadeVGA. It's double the memory for less than half the price.

I'm not the one who's confused. Here is another picture of that style trackball. https://www.amazon.com/Happ-Trackball-Diameter-White-56-5500-11/dp/B07D6W4JRQ/ The wire harness on it looks like this. https://www.amazon.com/d/Grown-Up-Toys/Jamma-Replacement-Wiring-Harness-Trackball/B00F1YQHMK The optic sensor boards are what the wire harness is plugged into on the trackball (you can see the wires going into a connector and another bundle of wires going to the other end of the trackball.)

You can also use a wire harness that looks like this. https://www.amazon.com/Atomic-Market-Trackball-Interface-Compatible/dp/B07HQ693PP/ Although I'm pretty sure the pinout on that specific one would be wrong for an I-PAC, it looks like it'd be easy to fix. If I was the OP, I'd email Andy and ask what he needs to make what he has work.

It might be worth looking at somebody who makes cam-lock assembly bartops rather than having somebody cut the parts out for you. Kind of depends on where your situation has left you in terms of dexterity, but the cam lock stuff I've checked out (gameroomsolutions and a small Ebay seller whose name escapes me) hasn't required as much of me in terms of manual dexterity as stuff that involved glue, screws, etc. I bring it up since you mentioned having parts cut for you in one of the comments. If you go that cam lock kit route, I don't think you give up much vs. having someone cut out your parts... You do the assembly either way, but it also means that your assembly will probably go a bit more smoothly. Both of the ones I've tried have gotten things out the door and to me really quickly too, which I'll mention in case time is a factor. There are some other people out there who make amazing kits, but can take more than a month to get them to you because of the way their production is set up.

Couple of other thoughts:

If you go that cam lock route, you might consider picking up an L-shaped screwdriver (or something similar) if you don't already have one. They make tightening the locks in some of the hard to reach places less of a pain in the ass, plus the tightening motion doesn't just involve as much from your wrist or fingers.

If you're not necessarily looking to go with name brand buttons or a higher quality usb encoder, there are some button/joystick/encoder sets on amazon that include led buttons that don't have you trying to get quick connects onto button terminals (whatever those things are called) and instead come with cables with molex-style connectors on either end. One end of a cable plugs into the encoder, the other end plugs into the button. Here's a link to the ones I'm thinking of: https://www.amazon.com/SJ-JX-Mechanical-Keyboard-Controller/dp/B07R5Z218X/. Depending on where you're at with dexterity, these might be a good choice even if they're not going to give you Sanwa quality.

Hope some of that's worthwhile and not too obvious or anything. I have just partial use of one of my hands from an accident, so I bump up against these sorts of things in small ways from time to time. Anyway, good luck with the project!

Here is the kit I used. I had to cut a few long edges to angle (about 15 degrees or so) but other than that it fits together pretty good. The t-slots are already there so it was worth the extra $20 versus getting my own MDF and trying to cut it myself.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX3ICXP?m=A28WGZVSH1VJP&ref_=v_sp_widget_detail_page

https://www.amazon.com/Suzo-Happ-Ultimate-Joystick-Switches/dp/B0090838JS/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=happ+sticks&qid=1556574594&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spell

​

Suzo branded sticks, free shipping.

​

I've actually purchased quite a lot through Ali-Express and haven't really had much bad luck yet. The 2 sanwas I ordered were name brand. And as they had free shipping as well, it was about $10 cheaper for a pair than amazon. I was willing to wait.

I couldn't print a 3D wheel for the ThunderStick spinner like Glen has:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ymywodZ2V0

so I made an alternative. This wheel is very sturdy and will never break.

US Pricing:

SpinTrak: $69

• Knob: $12
  
• 160mm wheel: $42
  
• Total:$123
  
  Thunderstick spinner: $50
  
  
• Interface board: $12
  
• ucell 160mm hand wheel (16mm ID): $14
  
• 13mm to 16mm bushing: $1-10
  
• Total: $77-87
  
  Spinner: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5WJ7BC
  
  Wheel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KFTS9RF
  
  Bushing : https://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-OD-X-13mm-ID-1-5-mm-THICKNESS-6061-ALUMINUM-TUBE-PIPE-ROUND-L-12-INCH/113870820679?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  
  (I don't have a good source for bushings, so I cut from stock)

Ok so I've researched a bit and I'll probably go the crt_emudriver route. I've seen the lists of compatible cards, but is there any reason to get a particular one? Should I just buy this? Is there a slim card I could get? I don't think a regular one will fit in the PC case, although not a dealbreaker because I can always just run it without a case.

Also, is there any way to get a J-pac without paying $20 shipping?

Why not use a PC?

To your question: a smart strip will work. Something like this

If you have an Alexa device, check out the Arcade Party skill which will make the room sound like a busy arcade.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Puzzling-Plans-LLC-Arcade-Party/dp/B0795CQY43

It depends on what the wire connects. If it's low voltage, like a 3v audio signal, you can use a small relay which can be controlled with a switch or raspberry pi. https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Channel-Module-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B00KTEN3TM

They make relays like this for lots of applications. Just make sure you're not sending too much voltage.

Five way switch for the joy stick the buttons are momentary push buttons with caps.
https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-6x6x9mm-Tactile-Momentary-Arduino/dp/B073PY9FNH/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=push+buttons+caps&qid=1573774352&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMRTDJI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have these.. they work great:

https://www.amazon.com/Holster-AimTrak-Light-RetroArcade-us-Jamma/dp/B01EKCWR68

Have you looked at Smart Strip? You may be able to make something work using it. I use it for shutdown procedures in my pinball cabinet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P1QJXQ/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5RHPCZT85GB9F7WEZNFY

I used this lcd board connect to the monitor for $30.

HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9NJ2NR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hooked my hdmi to a raspberry pie. I hooked up my amazon firestick to test that as well.

What you want is a smart power strip. Shut it down properly and power everything down with the single press of a button.

I don't use a raspberry pi, but this is the strip I use for my PC based MAME machine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_ZY6.yb0ZCJ85T

This seems to be the USB interface you're looking for:

http://www.ultimarc.com/rotary.html

It is designed for use with this, I believe:

https://www.amazon.com/Happ-Red-Ultimate-Joystick-Switches/dp/B0090838JS