Best products from r/cats

I'm going to be all over the place a bit here, with little things I've learned here and there.


Canned/wet food. No kibble/dry food. None. Ever. Kibble is horrible and causes health problems in cats - chronic dehydration that can lead to kidney failure (as it did in my own cat) and many urinary tract issues, especially in males. And kibble has no benefits - it does not "clean" teeth (that is a myth) and it can harbor bacteria and toxins. If I could give every cat owner advice, it would be to never, ever feed kibble. I regret feeding my cat a lifetime of kibble so much.

Go for grain-free canned foods if you can, with water/meat as the first ingredient, and avoid fish flavors as a diet high in fish is harmful to cats (weird, I know!) Plus they have small bodies, so mercury from fish such as tuna and salmon can build up in their bodies.


Feed two to three meals a day and don't let kitty dictate the meal schedule ;} Cats evolved as "opportunity hunters" that couldn't always eat just whenever they want to, so they are full able to go hours without eating, despite how they'll beg.

Spring for stainless steel or ceramic bowls and dishes, as plastic can get scratched up and harbor bacteria, and many cats have "allergic" reactions to it and develop cat acne. Cats seem to prefer shallower, flatter dishes to eat out of, since their whiskers might hit the sides of a deeper bowl and they dislike this.


Be sure to get regular checkups at the vet. Yearly checkups at first are great. Check teeth, claws, all the bells and whistles :} Keeping a cat's teeth healthy through regular cleanings will help prevent the misery that most cats go through later in life - extractions, abscesses, difficulty eating, and so on. My cat is 18 and still has all her teeth with zero problems - but I read about people with cats who have had to have all their teeth extracted. :{ Also, if you get the one-year-old (or even a kitten) be sure to ask the vet what your cat's "ideal weight range" should be. Many owners don't know this and thus let their cats get too thin or too fat before they realize how much the cat has lost/gained. For example, my cat's "ideal weight" is 8.5-9 lbs. If she goes down to 8 or up to 9.5, I get worried - that's the equivalent of a 140 lb human dropping or gaining around 9 lbs, so it's a large portion of body weight.


Provide a scratching post (or two!) and some "no interaction needed" toys such as these:

https://www.amazon.com/Petstages-317-Tower-Tracks-Chase/dp/B00DT2WL26

http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/petmate-crazy-circle-cat-toy

I can leave them out for my cat and she plays with them when she feels like it, which is good. I don't leave out any other toys such as catnip mice, feathers, or anything that can be pulled/chewed off - if a cat CAN tear a toy to bits and ingest it, they WILL! You'll definitely want wand/"fishing" toys and teaser toys for playtime, but I don't leave them out because of the risk.

I have two litterboxes for my cat - I have often heard the advice given, "one litterbox per cat, plus one" - but it's not necessary. I put a litter mat under the litterbox to help "catch" the bits of litter that the cat kicks out or carries out on their feet. This seems like a small detail, but really saves a lot of the angries when you walk over to the litterbox and feel pieces of litter under your bare feet. Scoop the box(es) daily, and don't use a hood - this traps smells inside the box and a cat's nose is much better than ours, so going inside a hooded box is the kitty equivalent of using an enclosed public restroom. If you have the cat on a decent food, the box shouldn't smell much, if at all. My cat is on a fully raw diet and her poop doesn't stink. At all. No joke. It's awesome.

I also bought a bunch of rolls of doggie poop bags, and when I clean the litterbox, I drop the poop/pee into one of those bags and tie it off. So much easier that way.

Also, skip "scented litter" - they can be off-putting to cats since their noses are more sensitive. I've used plain old clumping clay litter - Dr. Elsey's Precious Cat Ultra - for the last 10+ years.


Skip special cat beds and stuff like that unless you're willing to potentially waste money - cats are, of course, famous for preferring boxes to expensive beds. I've literally only gotten my cat to use ONE cat bed in her entire 18 years - and now she refuses to leave it for a new, less scrofulous one.

If you get a young cat, get them used to claw trimming and grooming/brushing ASAP. Start with just gently holding/touching the paws, and over the course of a couple of days/weeks, work up to forcing the claw out of the sheath with gentle presses. Some cats will start out pretty mellow towards claw clipping and brushing, but if they don't start out okay with it... make claw clipping and grooming a VERY rewarding experience for your cat. The key to this method is START SMALL and work your way up SLOWLY.

Basically, you will literally start by brushing/combing your cat for just a few seconds. 10-20 seconds tops, maybe even do literally one stroke of the brush and then stop and immediately give them a small piece of a favorite treat/food. Make a fuss over them, tell them they're a good kitty, give them scritches, whatever pettings/attention type they prefer. And that's it for day one. Don't try the grooming again until the next day.


Do very short brushing sessions for a few days. Every time you brush them, give them a reward afterwards. Slowly work your way up to longer and longer brushing sessions. Cats are smart enough (luckily) to work out that they get a reward after the grooming if they stay calm and pretty much "endure" it.


My 18-year-old hates being brushed, but we've worked out a deal where she'll sit there and tolerate a 10-minute combing session because she knows she gets a treat after it. I've actually gotten her to the point with claw clipping that she no longer "needs" the treat reward - I can clip all her claws without fuss and all she gets afterwards is a good scritching and a hug.


The only other thing I can think of now is to "cat proof" your home. Pretend as if a two-year-old Spiderman baby is coming to your home. Hide exposed wires where you can, and tuck away drape/miniblind pull cords, etc. Hide or wrap anything dangling or exposed that you think the cat might pull, eat, chew on, or play with. Make sure nothing valuable or important is within knocking-over reach. Also check all your houseplants if you have any, as many plants are toxic to cats. Familiarize yourself with foods that are toxic to cats as well - there's nothing wrong with giving them a scrap of meat from your sandwich every once in a while, but onions and garlic (for example) are super deadly to cats.


I hope I haven't scared you with anything here! Good luck :D

EDIT: OH I almost forgot the MOST IMPORTANT thing. Even if you plan on your cat being "indoors only forever", get it microchipped ASAP. Get a collar and ID. Even if you NEVER expect your cat to get out. I have two separate friends who have "indoors only" cats, so they didn't microchip or collar them - one friend didn't even spay her cat, and the other didn't get hers vaccinated. Of course, the cats got out - one friend's brother let them out accidentally through a screen, and the other got out because of an accidental window-breaking. Luckily both friends found their cats again (but the unspayed one had gotten pregnant.....) but the experience was super-traumatizing to my friends. I always advocate ALL cats being chipped, collared, and IDed, even if you never expect them to get out.

I once found a skinny tuxedo boy in my front yard and took him to the vet for a checkup and chip scan. He was microchipped, and we tracked down the owner and reunited her with her cat. He had been missing for nearly two years! It was the most amazing thing :} So, microchips for the win!

Let her into your room! She'll be much happier with more space. I highly recommend having a cat tree or two in your place. Give her a box to hide in. Or even try one of these out!

KOJIMA Shark Round House Puppy Bed with Pet Bed Mat, Small to Medium (Gray, Small) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRXQ90I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dcINybCJMQWEE

Don't prevent her from hiding, but do challenge her once in a while to be comfortable in different rooms and open spaces.

Try the toy distraction on your 2 year old cat. That's what I meant. If she's showing aggression, it's one of the best ways to distract her from the cat who's more shy.

Make sure the new cat isn't doing anything to provoke your 2 year old cat. If she is, that behavior will need to be adjusted before the 2 year old cat can be comfortable with her.

100% agree on the tuna. If you'd like to learn about cat nutrition, I highly recommend http://www.thecatsite.com for its active forums and articles on feline nutrition (they can also give great input on behaviors)

Here are two nutrition articles to get you started:

http://www.thecatsite.com/a/how-to-choose-the-right-food-for-your-cat

http://www.thecatsite.com/a/grain-free-cat-food-what-does-it-mean

You'll find that grain free high protein wet/raw foods are best for your babies as unlike people and even dogs, cats are obligate carnivores. (Here is some of that science: https://www.waltham.com/document/nutrition/cat/dog/differences-between-cat-and-dog/284/ )
My recommendation is making a small trip to an independent pet food store (not petco, petsmart, or even pet supplies plus) Take a look on yelp for good ones in your area. (Just search for pet food stores) If there are none, try Chewy.com. They sell all sorts of pet foods (you can filter by grain free) The forums on thecatsite are very good in terms of discussion of different commercial and home-made food options. (As you might be able to tell, I've done a lot of my own research!)

But yes. You are correct. Plain tuna does not contain the amount of Taurine (that's just one or the major ones) cats need to thrive. Fish generally is something you should stray from due to high mercury content and addictiveness. (Dry food is also very addictive and contributes most to obesity, digestive issues, UTIs, urinary crystals, and more)

And good! Yes, be creative in your ways to distract her! If she's not enjoying her favorite toy, try a new one. (Cats love Da'Bird and similar long (~3 ft) fishing pole type toys. ) Check out these links.


GoCat Da Bird Rod and Feather Cat Toys, Assorted Colors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BOVEU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wzINybW7DMFV9

Cats really jump for these types of long fishing pole toys that use feathers or other fur like parts. I do recommend always having a handy supply of strong duct tape to fix minor issues and strengthen the parts of well-used toys. (I had to tightly reinforce the end of the rod that connects to the string so the end piece holding the string wouldn't come off)


Petmate Jackson Galaxy Cat Crawl Solid Tunnel, Green/Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O3GWKHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UDINyb34HXAEW

Great space for stalking and hiding during play


Nature In Hand Cat Play House with Catnip and Scratcher (Cat Scratching House) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJAHOC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DFINybC4C5TWA

Triple function hide, stealth play, and cardboard scratcher. I have one that my cat loves! You can sometimes find seasonal looking ones on clearance at local pet stores (I have a gingerbread xmas themed one that I got on clearance for half the price on amazon) Cardboard scratchers, to me, are a must. Whether it's something like this or just by itself.



Nano Robotic Cat Toy (White/Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RWU17KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kyINyb5FX7DB2

This one is great if you have hard wood or tile floors. Otherwise, pass.


The idea here is to give them more enrichment, hide space, and ways to play.

That said, having more vertical space is also a really good idea.

You know how cat trees (especially the 6 ft ones) are like 200 dollars at pet stores?
Check this out:

Go Pet Club Cat Tree, 50W x 26L x 72H, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_awINybGSAA2EB


BestPet CT-9073 Cat Tree Scratcher Play House Condo Furniture Toy, 73-Inch, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOL7OQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-wINybKYYYCDX

You can find more on amazon. Groupon or eBay are also good sources. Your cats will be more comfortable if they can observe their territory from a high place rather than hiding behind a toilet. I really do think it would help give them more confidence. You could even install cat shelves on your walls if you want to. But a cat tree(or two!) goes a long way!

Give them their own favorite places to occupy so that they are better able to share their space.

Okay a few cat suggestions.

1. http://www.catgenie.com/ buy one of these. It will save you a LOT of scooping, and the soap cartridges it takes last a long time (months) and are cheaper than cat litter. Because this device uses a plumbing connection (water supply and drain) it flushes the cat waste down the drain so there is nothing to scoop or empty. Buy the normal retail unit, then sign up for the VIC program- over the course of a year they'll send you a ton of supplies, but it doesn't auto renew. The VIC supplies are cheaper than retail and work in the normal retail cat genie.
   
   
2. To litterbox train your cat, look up a product called Cat Attract spray. If you get the Cat Genie, DO NOT put the cat attract litter in it- it will clog and destroy the machine. Use the spray, or litterbox train the cat with a normal litterbox and then switch to something automatic.
   
   
3. Keep your cat inside. Inside cats live longer, healthier lives. However she should still have a collar and a microchip- cats can sometimes escape.
   
   
4. Learn to communicate with your cat. Cats do most of their communication through body language, not meows. Most domesticated cats adapt and use meows to communicate with humans to some degree, but if you learn to read the cat's body language that can be a big help. There are lots of resources on cat body language so I won't go into it much here. But a few tips- tail straight up plus long meow is a greeting when you get home, tail up generally indicates happy or curious, ears back plus cat/tail low to the ground equals pissed off. Staring straight at a cat can be a sign of hostility. However if you look at the cat and blink very slowly, sometimes the cat will return the sign- that is a sign of non-threatening familiarity. Same thing if a cat does it to you, do it back. Cats rub against things partially to scent-mark them- so the cat rubbing past your leg is partially an affectionate sign, and also marking you as part of the cat's property. If a cat rubs its face on you (especially your own face) that's a strong sign of approval, it's considering you to be part of its family. When a cat rolls over and exposes its belly this is a sign of trust, not necessarily and invitation for a belly rub. Some cats like the belly rub, some don't. If you want to try it, start at the top under the chin.
   
   
5. speaking of things cats like- scratching between the ears, rubbing around the ear sockets (there are a lot of little muscles in there which orient the ears), scratching lightly on the underside of the jaw and off to the sides below the cheeks. Some cats like having an ear lightly rubbed between two fingers. Right above the base of the tail is another good scratching place. Most cats would prefer having their legs and paws left alone.
   
   
6. Don't declaw your cat. Declawing in human equivalent is the same as tearing off the end of each finger at the last knuckle. Get a good scissor-type nail trimmer- petsmart has them in the dog aisle. The cat designed quick detector one doesn't work at all. DO NOT cut the 'quick'- the pink area inside the nail. That will hurt a lot and bleed. Nail trimming time should be when the cat is very tired and relaxed so she will sit still. Plenty of treats should be involved. It's not always possible to do all the nails at once, sometimes more than one session is required. If you absolutely must declaw your cat, only declaw the front paws. However a better solution is to get a good scratching post and reward the cat for using it. Get something fairly tall- cats like to stretch out when they scratch.
   
   
7. The more water your cat drinks, the better. Cats in the wild get most of their water in the meat they eat, so this is especially important if your cat eats dry food. This gadget works really well- cats instinctively know that running water is cleaner than stagnant water, so a bowl like this can encourage the cat to drink more. Proper hydration can prevent kidney and bladder issues.
   
   
8. It IS possible to train a cat. The difference is that unlike dogs, cats are not pack animals. With a dog, once you establish yourself as ahead of the dog in the pack order, the dog will naturally obey as long as it understands the command. Cats have no such compunction, so you have to train them that it's in their best interest to obey. Negative reinforcement doesn't work well with cats, positive rewards work much better. IE, if you want your cat to come to you when called, having a treat ready as a reward is more effective than punishing the cat who doesn't come. You can train your cat for 'OFF!' or some similar command- for a while, when you say OFF, if the cat doesn't move chase her off whatever she's on, then ignore her. You don't want to create the association that 'off' is the start of a fun hide and seek game.
   
   
9. If you need a punishment, a spray bottle full of water works nicely. It's totally harmless but cats don't like it. There are a handful of automated defense systems like static zapper mats and motion-detector compressed air spray things that work pretty well for training cats to stay off tables and stuff.
   
   
10. If the kitten gets low to the ground, looks at you, and starts wiggling her butt, prepare for a incoming kitty-missile.
    
    
11. Back on training- you can train the cat to not bite or use claws when playing. If you are playing with the cat and she gets a bit too rough, make a loud 'OUCH!' type sound, and end the play session (just walk away and ignore her). Then wash off your hands- any cat bite or scratch should be washed with soap and water.
    
    
12. All cats go through a phase where they bite all the time. The bites are generally soft play-bites that don't hurt.
    
    
13. Cats are smart. If you feed your cats by hand, they will usually figure out that rub against the leg + meow anxiously + be adorable = get food. Keep an eye out for when your cat is training you. Alternatively, get the cat an automatic feeder (only works well with dry food).
    
    
14. Keep your cat entertained. Get a bunch of balls and toys and stuff and leave them laying around. This is especially important if you only have one cat- two cats will entertain each other, one cat will be bored out of its mind when you are away. Many cats prefer toys that make noise of some kind. A cat tower is another good investment.
    
    Hope that helps!

I just buy stuff at the pet store, but I can try and find a few recommendations. You'll want to avoid things with bells or small parts, at least while she's tiny. PetSmart usually has some pretty good stuff, or you can even find a good selection on Amazon. If you're gone a lot, it also might be a good idea to invest in something you can turn on and leave running while you're gone, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP7F8YC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2GCMBb2JZP9JV.

Ironically, my cat's favorite toy is a piece of cut up fleece on a stick that I got from the pet store.

Here are a few homemade things that look fun:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/496293492/cat-toy-kitten-toy-kitten-puzzle-cat

https://www.etsy.com/listing/573944129/catnip-toy-medium-kicker-cat-toy-cat

And here are some more things from Amazon that I would recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT2WL26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bLCMBbEDZ585B

And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QPLUQXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dOCMBbRA7B6MM

Just make sure she's careful with the string on this one. As long as she doesn't break it off and swallow it, it should be fine.

Some sort of a laser pointer is always a great toy for kitties, just make sure not to shine it in her eyes.

Finally, make sure to get her a cat tree if you have room for one. Cats like to climb. Something like this would be great:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0794T79KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ERCMBbM18RTGA

Scratching posts are also important, so here's what I would recommend for a scratching post, if you don't want to get the cat tree:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BY385RX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fTCMBbKA5B15Q

Once you spay her, if she isn't already, feed her adult food so she doesn't gain too much weight. A good kitten food to start her on before the spay is Good Natured, at PetSmart. If she's spayed and you want to start her on adult food, I use this, and my cat loves it, and she's super healthy:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDQCL13/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0VCMBbHDBF7XG

If you have any other questions, please feel free to message me. I have had my cat for two years, and raised her since she was three months old, so I can answer a lot of kitten questions.

One more thing, get her a bed. She may not always use it, but she will appreciate it.

I can help with this! This info is not coming from things I've read or seen, but from an actual cat behaviorist (yes those are a real thing/person) that I had to hire to help with a very similar situation you are in.

1. Is this your only cat? If not some cats really do need a buddy if possible, that might not solve all the nighttime problems but can help get that crazy energy out.
   
   
2. Even though cats tend be awake more at night you can get them used to your sleep schedule.
   
   
3. We were told the kitten needed to be physically and mentally stimulated so he would sleep better and get that excess energy out.
   
   
4. I commented on a previous post on how she taught us to play with the cats, this is what I wrote:
   I second the playing tactics. I had to hire a cat behaviorist for one my cat (yes it was that bad) and she taught me how to correctly play with cats. Mimicking how a prey acts and behaves makes play time physically and mentally stimulating for kitty. Just changing how I played with him changed some of his misbehaving.
   I totally got into the roll of the "prey" and actually really had fun figuring out new ways to do that. I've found one of my cats loves to catch things in the air and jumps super high. My other cat is super fast and after the initial stalking period he loves the toy to be whipped around like crazy.
   
   This is the toy the behaviorist recommended and it is amazing. It's cheap, the cats LOVE it, so I always keep a supply of them in the house. The other thing is to make sure you don't leave these special toys out all the time. Put them away when you are done playing so it remains an exciting thing for them to do.
   
   
5. She told us to play with him until he was breathing hard, NOT panting just breathing hard. As a signal to the end of the game let the kitten "win" by getting the toy and playing on their own for a few seconds.
   
   
6. If you play with the kitten in the morning and the evening at the very least it helps get all their little energy out.
   
   This of course is by no means the only way to do things, but it really worked for us. Hope your kitten calms down and you can start getting more sleep.

I am providing links but all of these are available at different retailers.

My girl enjoys the Catit Senses components. You can start out small and keep adding to it.

Catit Design Senses Super Roller Circuit Toy for Cats https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A4A7UOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hQ8vCbXXNCGPJ

The Katris modular System looks great and my cat absolutely loves hers! We have them staggered along the wall in my living room taking her up to the point where she can touch the ceiling if she wants.

https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/katris-modular-cat-tree-2845031?cm_mmc=PLA-GG-_-PTC_P_SUP_PLA-GG_FY17_SCShopping-Draw-_-55162009170-_-A&kpid=go_1581587647_55162009170_296946065888_aud-474167082703:pla-365007370291_m&scid=scplp2845031&sc_intid=2845031&utm_config=tad0iunwp&utm_campaign=PTC_P_SUP_PLA-GG_FY17_SCShopping-Draw&utm_source=google&gclid=CjwKCAiAv9riBRANEiwA9Dqv1WA5Uw81TI2m38CE98fHwNU4OL2SzoI0QovtdA6EnKwO9LoRH7u_tBoCtmIQAvD_BwE

MousR is fun for cat and pet parent alike. You can control it with your cell phone or you can set it on auto- play to keep your cat entertained. It has an all day setting where it will go into sleep mode and then turn itself back on periodically throughout the day to get your kitties attention and get them to play.

https://petronics.io/?gclid=CjwKCAiAv9riBRANEiwA9Dqv1aqVNMna2cYSjemkdko8N-syGKRxL3tIqf7S5OjF8Koycts9zrS-LhoC2LcQAvD_BwE

The ultimate way to use up all that cat energy is with the cat-wheel, and this is the best one on the market made by One Fast Cat.

https://onefastcat.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiAv9riBRANEiwA9Dqv1dA_vXcadwai98lwk3ratu2XNPGzx1mMKognvQwA-iq69poNUAe4sRoCBD0QAvD_BwE

And though it is not a toy, it is important for cats to get adequate hydration and most of them do not. A pet fountain can really encourage them to drink. My girl loves hers! This is a link to what I have but there are different price ranges and styles out there.

PetSafe Drinkwell Pagoda Ceramic Dog and Cat Water Fountain, Red, 70 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQHFDCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rS8vCb5C0HACG

And of course kitty has to eat. Cats naturally eat six mice a day in the wild. Doc & Phoebe’s has come up with mice feeders that satisfy the hunt, catch, kill, eat instinct that all cats have. My girl loves hers and I can honestly tell she has been more content since I have been using them. It is good to feed wet food to cats so that they get the additional moisture but I feed a combination to mine, especially since she drinks so well from her cat fountain.

Doc & Phoebe's Indoor Hunting Cat Feeder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFKDJF8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_878vCbQXB021F

Your first mistake is thinking your cat has a master. There are three things that could be happening here. One is that he doesn't like you. One is that he likes you and is playing with you. One is that he likes you and is playing with you but could really use some more toys. Get him some toys. Might be fun to get some of those toys on sticks and play with him since he clearly wants to play with you. But I wouldn't assume this is aggressive. Try filling a sock with catnip and sewing it closed or buying something similar. My cats love kicking and biting those. He just sounds like he's having fun, though. Just get him something he can rabbit kick and bite and direct his attention there. And have fun so he knows you love him and that it's just more fun for everyone to use the toy!


He might do this with you because he thinks you like it, too. But I think he's just being a happy cat and doesn't mean to be aggressive. Try something like this so you can play with him and he gets his kicking and energy out: https://smile.amazon.com/Go-Cat-Piece-Apart-Handmade/dp/B000F9JJJE

I’ve bought my kitten this (I forget how to link on mobile so sorry for the ugly link) and of course it’s the cheapest toy I’ve bought, but he will play with this until he’s panting, go eat, come back and play over and over.

You can also kinda DIY some toys. My older cat (5 years) hates anything and everything I buy for her. I bought a bungee mouse toy you can hang on doors and stuff, and tied a long ribbon through the ring. She will play with that forever. (Also linked)

The one they both agree is with the Yeowww catnip banana. They go absolutely bonkers for it. (Linked)

Some also love little chirpy toys. You can find plenty on strings, or little strong free ones (linked).

Go to town with feathers, bells, and whatnot to figure out what your kitty likes!

Crinkle balls are also a hit with both. They love the sound and it’s their jam. My youngest will play with them for hours. Be careful of which brand you buy of these though, some people have issues with the dye.

If you don’t want’em scratching on anything, try getting a couple scratching posts and place them near where they scratch the walls or whatever else. They also love being up high, so a cat tree is always great! Preferably near windows since most cats enjoy looking outside.

Cheap toy: Cat Dancer 101 Cat Dancer Interactive Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N9I68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_R7yTBbDYBC4T8

Mouse bungee toy: SmartyKat Bouncy Mouse Cat Toy Bungee Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FK62YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2.yTBb1ECB06G

Catnip Banana: Yeowww! Catnip Toy, Yellow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AUJFHE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Crinkle balls: 12 Mylar Crinkle Balls for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVY88VR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Chirpy toy: Your pet will love this Pet Zone Play-N-Squeak Backyard Squeaking Raccoon Cat Toy: https://app.chewy.com/pEfewDgnJQ

Hi TurbinePoweredVagina, sorry to hear about your kitty. I hope some of this information will be able to help!

First off, good on you for introducing wet food back into his diet! I also suspect that the change to all dry is triggering these blockages. The number one issue concerning cats with urinary crystals water consumption. Cats naturally have a very low thirst drive (as they get virtually all water from their prey, which is ~70% water), and often will not drink until extremely dehydrated. So a transition from a primarily wet diet (70-80% moisture) to a primarily dry diet (~10%) moisture would undoubtedly cause your kitty to consume less water. In essence, a uretic dry food isn't going to do much more for your kitty than if he were eating a generic dry food, as he is likely chronically dehydrated.

When looking for a canned food for your cats (and this applies to all cats, including healthy ones!), look out for a two important things:

• actual named protein source first and second on list of ingredients ("chicken" or "turkey" as opposed to "meat by-product")
  
• free of grains (rice, corn, wheat, etc)
  
  Cats are by design, obligate carnivores (teeth shape, short digestive tract to minimize bacteria in prey). They haven't lived with humans long enough to evolutionarily adapt to the consumption of high-carbohydrate diets, and thus, their bodies still lack the necessary enzymes to properly digest carbohydrates. Note that most dry foods are very high in carbs (30%+), due to the necessity of a starch to bond the kibble together. As a result, high-carb dry diets (upwards of 30% - 50% carbs) contribute to maldigestion, hairballs, obesity, kidney diseases, high blood sugar leading to feline diabetes, and chronic dehydration leading to urinary blockages.
  
  In terms of good common canned food brands, may I recommend Wellness (the 12.5 oz cans, look for the Grain Free yellow triangle) or EVO (13 oz cans)? The Wellness website often has promotions and will provide coupons for their products, and EVO offers a frequent buyers club, in which the 10th purchase is free. I find that buying the large cans in bulk (two boxes at a time) is enough to last my cat almost two months. They're pretty economical as the large cans (the EVO ones are $2.69 where I live, no doubt cheaper in the US) end up being around the same price if not cheaper than supermarket brands like Friskies or Fancy Feast, per gram. You should be able to find Wellness in big box pet stores like Petsmart and Petco, however EVO isn't as common and it might only be available in smaller or privately-run stores. If you're in a rush and need to get food fast, Fancy Feast actually isn't terrible; as their classic variety lacks grains and has named protein sources at the top of the ingredient list.
  
  As the main concern with a cat with urinary tract issues is water consumption, here are a couple things you can do to alleviate his condition:
  
  
• if your kitty is fascinated with running water, try getting him a pet fountain. The sound of running water encourages many cats to drink more.
  
• give him chicken broth, water from a tuna can, or a cat milk such as CatSip as treats
  
• add one or two tablespoons of water to his wet food each meal
  
  I leave you with some resources that you may find helpful:
  
  
• Feline Urinary Tract Health: Excellent feline nutrition website written by a veterinarian, very in-depth
  
• Feline-Nutrition.org: Library of interesting articles
  
• Forum for Cat Health/Nutrition: Knowledgeable people, can go to them for more advice
  
  tl;dr Cats naturally don't drink enough water so eating an all dry diet will cause dehydration and urinary blockages. Best solution is to switch to a primarily wet diet (grain free for optimum health), get a pet fountain, give tasty broth and lactose-free milk as treats, and add additional water to food during mealtimes.
  
  Hope this helped. Best of luck to you and your little guy!

I'm kind of a new cat owner myself, but that said I remember looking for a cat pretty recently :)

Typically shorter hair cats shed less, but my domestic short-hair still sheds more then I expected. Regular grooming with a good brush (my Furminator is amazing) keeps my lap pretty much hair free after petting sessions.

I wouldn't worry too much about the washing thing. Any smell associated with having a cat around is typically coming from the litter box, not the cat, and that can be controlled to some degree by changing the litter more frequently and putting it in another room. Unless they get into something, his/her regular grooming should keep her pretty clean. My cat hates it, but do give her a bath every 3-4 weeks mostly because I love how soft shampoo makes her fur.

As long as you try to make your house a nice place for a cat to live (toys, scratching post, maybe even a cat tree) cats can do very well being inside only. Without toys and something to exercise their claws on they can terrorize your stuff and your furniture though so be careful.

There is some correlation between breeds and personalities, and I did a TON of research before I went out to look for a cat, but what it really comes down to is the individual animal you end up getting. If you are adopting from an animal shelter (they have lots of great animals at least here in the states) just talk to the people that work there. They typically love the animals a lot and working with them everyday gives them a lot of insight into each of their personalities. I went to the shelter trying to get a particular kitten I found on their website, but he wouldn't come out to see us and was all around pretty grumpy. I talked to the shelter workers and explained what I was looking for, they introduced me to Winkie, and wouldn't trade her back for anything :)

Yep, normal kitten behavior. My cat was like that until he was about a year or so old, then he was still like that but in shorter and shorter spurts. It can be both adorable and frustrating at once! (Especially at night!).

Redirection like someone mentioned does help a lot. The spray bottle never worked with my cat. He just figured out that if I didn't have the spray bottle in my hand he had X amount of time to misbehave and run. I also found that attention worked a lot too. Like making sure you spend a fair amount of itme playing and tiring them out!

My cat had a ton of toys to play with,, which kept him occupied. Simpler tended to be better -- small plastic balls to bat around were probably his favorite. The other thing he LOVED was http://www.amazon.com/Cat-Dancer-101-Interactive-Toy/dp/B0006N9I68 Its a cheap toy. Nothing to it, but its a stiff wire and when he batted at it, it owuld move in an erratic fashion (like a bug). So that would be something he'd do to entertain himself all the time.

Good luck!

Breed: domestic short-hair, a.k.a. moggy.

She looks to be older the 6 weeks as her default blue eyes (almost all kittens, including those of the "big" cats are born with blue eyes) have already turned to green.

Looks like you are giving her Temptations treats; those are good for an occasional treat, but not for feeding real meals. Cats are obligate carnivores; they need meat--check labels on cat food and avoid anything that has fillers like corn.

Good wet food (esp for the price!): https://www.amazon.com/Purina-Fancy-Feast-Flaked-Shrimp/dp/B0012KB466/ref=pd_sim_199_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0012KB466&pd_rd_r=B8MQ2M7BCPCJGWPBQD1N&pd_rd_w=SpSRe&pd_rd_wg=Cwzvx&psc=1&refRID=B8MQ2M7BCPCJGWPBQD1N

Set up a feeding station somewhere quiet, where you have little foot traffic and no noise (like washing machine etc).

Make sure she drinks enough water. The watering station needs to be away from the food station (cats do not like to drink next to food; it's an evolutionary left-over -- in nature water next to killed prey might be contaminated).

Cats like running water (signals "fresh" to them); try leaving a faucet on a slow drip or get a water fountain.

Be sure to get her a break-away collar with contact info in case she gets out. Microchip her as well.

Take her to a vet soonish to check her over and get her spayed (no more kittens!). Do NOT get talked into declawing her.

Get a couple of GOOD scratching posts, one where she can do a full body stretch vertically without tipping over the thing (this one is good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000634MH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Try cardboard scratchers, too. Cats love those!

Most cats love "da bird" to play with (https://www.amazon.com/GoCat-Cat-Feather-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000F9JJJE/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1504644018&sr=1-4&keywords=da+bird)

Here's a great resource for any cat appreciator: http://www.wayofcats.com/blog/

That's all I can think of right now ... except this: have fun with her. Cats can enrich your life in immeasurable ways!

There are many things you can try, and ultimately it’s just the more responsible cat guardian to do. Most people think cats like to sleep all day, but my 45years of cat parent experience definitely shows otherwise. Cats will sleep if they have nothing else to do, but the two main things your cat is going to need are 1. Stimulation and play and 2. Territory.

Outdoor cats have established territory, it will take a while for your cat to adjust, so be prepared for many attempted jail breaks. A tall baby gate at the door may help, you can get a 48inch gate on amazon.

Secondly, your cat needs attention and distraction- but a couple of cat wands, one with a feather twirly at the end and one with a deer hair mouse - every cat I have ever known love these:

GoCat Da Bird Rod and Feather Cat Toy, Handmade in The USA (1 Bird) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BOVEU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5zHZDb58EY5F7

Go Cat Cat Catcher Teaser Wand with Mouse Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LAHZDbYVCB38S

But what ever it’s your cat likes, work towards 10 solid hunting minutes in the morning and again at night. Use the cats favorite toy to distract when they want to go out.

Finally- there is an amazing calming product called “licks”. If your cat starts howling, you squeeze the packet on their front arm, work it into the Fur, they lick it off and it was better for calming my cat than Prozac.

Licks - Cat Zen - Calming Aid and Stress Management- Tryptophan, L-Theanine, Eleuthero Root, and Ashwagandha Root - LiquiPaks - 30 Use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SLBMLR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4CHZDbM1TA9DC

Good luck!!!

I don't have a website, but here's my experience:



food - it's pretty basic, but make sure you provide them with clean, fresh water every day. also (and this is just my personal opinion) try not to feed exclusively dry food. it is convenient, but is very high in carbohydrates (not good), whereas wet food has more fat and protein, and of course a lot more moisture! more moisture means less chances of your kitty getting a UTI or blockage, both of which are pretty bad. the very best thing you could do would be to feed only wet food, but that may not be possible as dry food can be more economical. also try to avoid by-products and grain IF possible. many brands will have a recommended feeding guide on their site or on the package so you'll have some idea of how much food your kitty needs.


play - cats have a reputation for being lazy, but they do require stimulation (some more than others)! try to play with them at least once or twice a day, even if it's just with a laser pointer or letting them stalk and chase a toy like this.


litter box - keep it clean, scoop it out at least once a day and dump all the old litter and replace it with fresh litter when it starts to get smelly (for us it's about once every two weeks). this will help prevent litter box avoidance.


affection - depends on the cat. some are super cuddly and want a lot of attention and petting, others not so much. one of my cats will ONLY want affection/cuddles in the morning, and typically ignores me for the rest of the day. the other chirps at me when she wants scritches or to get on my lap. ymmv.


other needs - kitties need to scratch! to save your furniture, get a couple of vertical and/or horizontal scratchers to place around your house. discourage them from scratching on furniture (a firm "NO!" will usually be enough of a deterrent) and if they still do, invest in some sticky tape. cats also like to climb and look down on their ~kingdom~, so a cat tree or at least a small perch is always a good investment.

ugh that was REALLY long, I'm sorry. if you have can, watch "My Cat From Hell" (it's on Netflix!). You'll learn a lot about cat needs and how they operate. Good luck and good for you for considering adoption!

First, I suggest listening to the vet :) Kittens grow quickly and are quite active so they need more calories per pound that an adult cat. If your vet thinks he'll grow into it, he probably will.

There are a few ways to tell if your cat's weight is appropriate for his size. You can apparently tell by feeling his ribs or the base of his tail to see how easy it is to feel bones. This seems like a pretty solid resource. I've had trouble with this method since I thought my cat was fine, but turns out she was just a bit overweight.

My cat is pretty much as grown as she'll be. So now I weigh her, which seems much more precise to me. It's tough to get your cat on a scale, but an easy way to do it is to pick him up and hold him while you're on the scale, and then weigh yourself alone and note the difference. It's not quite as exact as a scale made for cats, but it's got the benefits that 1) Your cat is more likely to sit still in your arms for a few seconds than in a scale you put him in every so often 2) it doesn't cost you any more money. It should be accurate enough for the purposes of monitoring weight changes as they can change by as much as 1lb without you noticing otherwise. It doesn't seem like a lot to a person, but for a cat 1lb can be a lot!

It's good that you're getting your cat on quality food. Again, as a kitten, personally I would not worry so much about the feeding pattern as long as it's consistent and he's getting what he needs. If you have a strong bond and he's vocal, there's a good chance he's going to whine for food a lot anyway (my cat makes the most pathetic sounds nearing feeding time, but she's perfectly healthy). I fed my cat 3 times a day as a kitten but now that she's grown she gets fed once in the morning and once in the evening. Unfortunately I can't leave any food for grazing since she'll just eat it all as soon as I fill the bowl.

Also, especially if you're feeding a lot of dry food, make sure you have water available for your cat and that he's drinking it. Cats naturally tend to get most of their water from their prey and have a low thirst drive. That doesn't exactly work when you're feeding them dry food so dehydration is a problem for some cats. They tend to like running water more than still water (you may notice he's interested by a running tap) so an inexpensive fountain like this one works for my cat.

Good luck, and I wish you and your new buddy a long healthy time together!

Cats bury their waste by instinct, so they're technically born litter-trained. ;) You'll want to have two boxes available (if you have the room in your flat, of course). Open boxes are supposed to be way better than ones with covers, but mine actually much prefer the enclosed ones. *shrug* There's a bunch of different litter box designs, too... take a look at the selection on Amazon, if you get a chance (I recommend this one).

Some cats are much messier than others with the litter; one of mine flings pawfulls of litter out of the box. Another one of mine finishes, and races out, tracking little grains of sand as far as she can. We have litter mats in front of all the boxes, which helps a lot, but you might want to invest in a dedicated little hand-held vacuum to keep nearby.

And you'll need something for claw maintenance -- a scratching post or pad. Don't go for expensive, fancy things, because it'll need replacing periodically. I tried a bunch of different ones, but ultimately, mine prefer the cardboard ones (specifically, this one). Well, that, and one of the living room chairs. *sigh*

An adult won't be as hyper and needy as a kitten, but play is still important. A laser pointer does wonders. If you're crafty, you can make some little catnip-stuffed toys (I crocheted some little mice and things that mine love, although they usually bat them up and down the hallway around 4am).

Another thing I noticed, and others have similar stories, was that a couple of my cats would bump the water dish before drinking. Another would dip her paw in. I'm pretty sure they couldn't tell where the surface was when the water wasn't moving. I got a drinking fountain for them, which solved that, and has the added benefit of filtering the water, keeping it fresher -- and cooler (so important, here in California).

get a covered littler box... and get the arm and hammer double duty cat litter... it's the best I have come across so far to absorb odors...

also, you will probably have to promise her to clean the litter box all the time... if you decide to get multiple cats, you need at least one litter box per cat... plus one more if you get several cats... but that's a little down the line... gotta get the first one in the door first...

what you may have to do is just go out and get one... get a kitten because who the hell can resist their perpetual cuteness... she should fall in love instantly... but, if you don't want to take a chance of having her kill you and want her to be in on it, one thing to know, that I have experienced, when you get a kitten, the person who holds it on the ride home will become it's mom/dad (this may be theory, but it has happened with all our cats) so you may want to have a friend take you so the both of you can be there to play with it on the way home...

whatever you do, DON'T get a cat declawed... it's wrong and mean and needless if you have the proper scratching things for them to... well, scratch on... our cats like those disposable cardboard scratchers you see at the pet store...

you'll probably want a cat tree too... something where it has places to hide and a platform to get up above most of the action... if you have the tools and ability, you can even make your own out of wood and carpeting... cats will even scratch on those...

when you bring them home for the first time, open their carrier and let them come out at their own pace... don't force them out... and if they do bolt out and hide somewhere, let them stay hidden until they come out on their own... but have plenty of toys for them to choose from... I suggest one of these and one of these because our cats love them...

as for food, get the appropriate food for their age... preferably an indoor formula that helps with hairballs... because they WILL hork up hairballs regularly... be ready to clean those too... for water, I suggest one of these since cats love to drink from the faucets... so break that habit before it even starts so you're not here in three to six months asking about cats and drinking from the sink...

umm... that's all I can think of off the top of my head... I am by no means a professional, but just someone who cares about their cats (and I have a girlfriend so I am not a crazy cat guy)

any other questions, just ask... someone will be able to answer what I can't

TL;DR: none. it's a lot to read, but it's good info as far as I understand...

Not sure what your budget is, but there are a few suggestions I can make.


2. Make grooming easy with bribes! Healthy treats like Catty Shack or Greenies make Brush Time easier for both parties.


3. A lot of professional groomers charge an arm and a leg for cats (because of their arms and legs), so do the grooming yourself! You will need a Furminator, nail clippers, and cleansing wipes. Groom often, and invest in a scratching post.


4. As long as you are using a tool for grooming cats (i.e.: Furminator) you don't have to worry about overdoing it. Brush as thoroughly as you can, and stop when your brush starts coming out clean (or nearly free of loose hairs).


5. General tips: Buy the best food your budget allows. Preferably wet food, or a diet half wet food and half dry food. Go grain free, like Merrick and/or Soulistic. For a healthy, shiny coat I would recommend Pet Naturals' Daily Best; And to reduce hairballs, Hairball. Don't use hairball remedies that contain petroleum jelly, it will give your baby the runs :(

EDIT: Formatting

Firstly, it sounds like you are doing a lot right. I would suggest feeding wet food twice a day, supplementing with dry. Cats get a lot of their hydration through food in addition to water in bowls.

As others have mentioned, I would get a tall sisal cat post, tall enough to let her obtain a decent full body stretch. Also, try to set aside 10-15 minutes a couple times a day to play with her using a wand type toy to help satisfy her predatory instinct, which will help with overall behavior. You mentioned biting... never use your fingers, hands or other body parts for playing as you are teaching her to bite you. Don’t let guests do this either as consistency is important for behavior modification. When she bites, immediately distract by using the wand toy, such as DaBird to play instead. Never use punishment, only positive reinforcement when she does things well.

If you are truly interested in learning about your cat and cat behavior, I suggest watching Jackson Galaxy videos. He has tons of great information on his YouTube channel. If you do these simple to implement activities, you will develop a much better relationship with your cat which will benefit both of you.

Jackson Galaxy:

https://www.youtube.com/user/TheCatDaddy66

We have this scratching post and our cats love it and use it.

https://www.chewy.com/smartcat-ultimate-scratching-post/dp/49133

Wand type cat toy:

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cat-Piece-Apart-Handmade/dp/B000F9JJJE

I wonder if some puzzle toys or a Turbo Scratcher might be good options for him? They shouldn't tax his heart too much, but they might provide more of an outlet for his prey drive. You could also feed him regularly via food ball.

Is he really food-motivated? If so, more mental stimulation could be had through clicker-training.

I don't know a ton about heart conditions in cats, so I'm not sure what activity levels would be safe for him. Your vet would know better. If more exercise (physical and mental) doesn't help, and he continues to be aggressive without warning, or it gets worse, I might explore medication options. I'm NOT advocating this as anything but a last resort, but sometimes mood stabilizers can improve everyone's quality of life. It doesn't sound like he needs this AT ALL right now, but it's not bad to keep it in mind if it ever does become an issue.

I hope your vet has some good suggestions and information for you! Good luck with everything, and if you feel like an update after the appointment, I'd be interested to hear how it went!

I totally hear you. Good luck! It's so stressful but worth it Our 3 yr old male kitty had crystals and was hopitalized for 4 days in December. He's great now and even happier than before, playing even more vigorously. I haven't read as many research papers as I'd like to about it but we kinda feel like stress and dehydration/dry food might have factored in though I know that there are cats with other urinary tract issues with different causes or prognosis. He loves drinking out of the tub and we had multiple foster cats/kittens getting in his life and added quite a bit of stress then most of them left but my husband got really ill, my parents visited, so there was even more home stress then he got blocked after a few weeks of me thinking he was marking due to the momma cat he hadn't liked but I think in reality was him having urinary issues.

Anyways, we buy the prescription Royal Canin food on Chewy.com but I am thinking of phasing him over to the over the counter Purina Pro Plan Urinary. He's happy now, plays even more, loves the tub water and his fountain. Got stainless steel to avoid kitty acne but keep it clean! I wish you the best and hope it's a smooth recovery and he makes it through! Ours was on anti spasm meds for awhile after and it took him some time to get back to normal due to the trauma of the catheter. He was dripping and acting quite weird but eventually got back to normal.

1. Make sure you are feeding good food. Wet food is better than dry, and high protein/minimal grain is best. Check here or search r/cats for the many threads on this subject. Grocery store brands like Friskies, and even brands advertised as "high end' like Science Diet and Purina, are not good foods!
   
   
2. Slowly decrease the amount of food they each get until it is close to the recommended amount, and until their weight is ideal and stabilizes. Be careful not to reduce the amount too drastically as hepatic lipidosis is always a concern. If you're not sure of the ideal weight, check out a weight chart or consult your vet.
   
   
3. Make sure they get enough play time. You should dedicate 15-30 minutes a day to getting them active! Try Da Bird or the Cat Dancer if they aren't very interested in play.
   
   
4. Do not give in to begging!

Some cats take a long while to get used to their new person. Who knows what life was like for that kitty before you adopted them? It's going to take a lot of patience to get them to trust you but the reward is worth the effort.

Honestly? Try ignoring the cat and see if it will start to come to you on its own. Don't stare at it or go after it (staring can be seen as threatening to cats), look at it indirectly while busy with something else. Have it's food bowl in the same room as you but far away so it starts to associate you with food time. Make sure you have lots of hiding places for your new cat so it can feel secure all throughout the house.

Have you read Think Like A Cat? It's a great insight into why our fuzzy felines act the way they do and how to best live with them. It might have some tips for making a skittish kitty feel more comfortable with you.

I'm so sorry you're having to treat infections, it sounds like your cat has a more severe case! :( I am happy to tell you what has worked for us.

To cure this particular flare-up, we added water to her food for hydration and gave her some tuna (more pungent so she would eat it even with her nose clogged).

We also purchased this moving water fountain. She slurps out of that thing where she wouldn't even look at her water bowl before. We also ran a humidifier for a while. She might have been on the up and up anyway, but all of this seemed to do the trick.

I mainly try to reduce her stress by keeping everything consistent, especially the kind of litter I use. If you're not already, do consider using a dust-free corn based litter like World's Best. Their lungs are smaller and the dust can really aggravate them.

Anitra's Vitamineral Mix is something you might want to look into as a wet food supplement. I considered using Feliway like one poster here suggested, but the price kind of kept me from pulling the trigger and we've been fortunate to not have another outbreak.

You might have known all of this already, in which case just ignore me, but I really hope your kitty gets feeling better. The Natural Cat is a book that really helped me after I first adopted. I don't agree with everything she prescribes and she's big on holistic treatments (avoiding the vet and medication as much as possible) but the lady knows her cats and I think everyone has something to learn. When nothing else has worked, it might be worth a shot! Take care!

toys:

cat dancer

the hot pursuit

cat tunnel

crinkle balls

litter:

my favorites in order are:

Arm and Hammer Seal and Clump

Ever Clean with activated charcoal (clumping)

Tidy Cats clumping

litterbox:

jumbo high-back litterbox

i would avoid covered or anything that makes the kitty feel trapped. no reason not to have tall walls, especially with sloppy kittens. you're also going to want a litter mat so they don't track it everywhere.

food:

kittens. eat. constantly. so keep out dry food 24/7 and feed a little wet food morning and night. this is temporary, don't free-feed dry food when they're an adult. you'll want to transition kitty to scheduled feedings when they're 6-8 months old, and i recommend wet food only at that point as kibble really isn't great.

my kitten has been thriving on premium edge kitten food but purina's kitten offerings look good and are a bit easier to find. with wet food supplementation. if you want, tell me your budget and i can give you some recommendations.


misc:

72" wooden cat condo - (or something like it, you definitely want something 6 ft+ for them to climb)

a tall scratching post - random one i found. tall scratchers are healthy for your cat, they have vertical muscles that need to be exercised.

cardboard scratchers - i like this one as it lasts a long time and you can flip it over for a new side.

not sure about flea meds as my cats are indoors. your vet will know what is effective in your region (some flea meds are completely useless in certain states). i would keep your cat indoors though.

I'm a fan too. I and several friends have this big bad boy, but they have smaller ones too. Actually, I have a smaller one of theirs upstairs and the bigger one downstairs. They aren't the most stylish but they get the job done.

Mine have stood up pretty well. The smaller one is a bit less steady than the bigger one, probably because it has a smaller base compared to height. It also probably wasn't put together as well.

I wouldn't call them the sturdiest of cat trees, though. Mine have held up relatively fine, except that the sisal has come unwrapped on one of the posts. And though the mice-on-a-string on mine have held up surprisingly well despite getting beat up routinely, most everyone else I know have had their mice strings break from cat abuse.

Still, they're my favorite, they are relatively cheap for the size and my cats seem to love leaping about them. They are second only to window perches for things that my cats enjoy.

My cat loves sisal posts but won't touch cardboard apparently! I bought her this fancy scratcher 2 months ago and she's only scratched it like twice lol https://www.amazon.ca/PetFusion-Scratcher-Construction-significantly-alternatives/dp/B004X6UEH6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=petfusion+scratcher&qid=1551210284&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

The reviews rave about how their cats love to scratch it and are laying on it all the time. My cat never does either. But she loves playing with toys in the holes so atleast its not a total waste :p