It helps to have a basic understanding of energy systems. Here's the dominant energy system for different durations of effort (Periodization Training for Sports 3rd. Ed, Bompa):

• Anaerobic
  
  • Alactic
    
    • 0:00-0:06 -- Power
      
    • 0:07-0:08 -- Capacity
      
  • Lactic
    
    • 0:08-0:20 -- Power
      
    • 0:20-1:00 -- Capacity
      
• Aerobic
  
  • 1:00-2:00 -- Power (I)
    
  • 2:00-8:00 -- Power (II)
    
  • >8:00 -- Capacity
    
    Most sport climbs rely on what Bompa calls Power-Endurance, for which training should target the anaerobic lactic and aerobic systems. You can use these timings to develop interval training routines to target the relevant systems.
    
    And as always, increasing your maximum strength will improve all facets of your training, including endurance. You will be shocked by how quickly endurance "responds" to training, especially how big a part of that is psychological (coping with pump, and climbing/gripping efficiently).
    
    ---
    
    I highly recommend Bompa's book. The Kindle edition is just $14; the paperback is $18. It's worth every penny.

Try moves that increase the flexibility in your hamstrings. I know thats pretty vague but its a giant tendon that is responsible for a lot of movements. Take a look at "Stretching", by Bob Anderson. Probably the best book for just stretching IMO, even has climbing specific stretches.

HAHA I love the simplicity. I use one of these with one of these and although it was a bit expensive it looks very... professional? No place to store stuff in my apartment so it all has to be out in the open. Anyways hooked up to The Gripster 2.0 - Makes for a cool home gym setup that can easily be swapped onto a wrist roller and is interchangeable with my plates as well

Check out the book Simply in Season. It's full of easy recipes made with basic ingredients that (mostly) be found along the edge of the grocery store. It's not a magical diet, and makes no claims as such--it's just a basic recipe book, but provides a great blueprint for "eating like an adult."

Strongfirst is def the place for technique.
I use kettlebells for grappling/bjj and they're great for building core strength and muscle without adding bulk or weight to your frame. I really like this book by Steve maxwell: Kettlebell Conditioning http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C112UIQ?vs=1

Understand your concern...having said that:

It is effective.

(I and many others have used it to accumulate volume in a sustainable way....and also in a way that one can easily incorporate into everyday busy lives)

It is tested.

(utilised in many countries basic training programs for military)

It works.

(see above)

Its called the grease the groove method... there is lots of testimony around it... utilised in many countries basic training programs..
For more google it or:
book



EDIT: haha, I made bold headings! how the fuck did I do that!!? ...soz, it now looks like Im shouting at you.

For Ashtanga in particular, the video I used to have was David Swenson's but if I wanted a video now I would probably do this one I found on prime video: Ashtanga Primary Series with Michael Guiou

Both of the "ardha baddha" poses I posted above are also great for shoulder flexibility; in addition I think the 3rd-6th poses of the standing sequence:

• utthita trikonasana
  
• parivritta trikonasana
  
• utthita parshvakonasana
  
• parivritta parshvakonasana
  
  and then a few poses later the hip-shoulder-hamstring stretch with arms in prayer pose behind you:
  
  
• parshvottanasana
  
  Altogether the poses I've listed are basically the first 15–20 minutes of any Ashtanga video; also in the second 20–30 minutes of the video there are a ton of upward/downward dog vinyasas which get a lot of pushuppy bodyweight pushes in.

It's worth making a (non-judgmental) clarification here, because I've decked in the exact same situation.

At the 3rd clip:

• You fell because a hold spun and you popped off. Fair enough.
  
• You decked because there was too much rope in the system.
  
• Too much rope means you're clipping too high or your belayer let out too much slack. From context it sounds like the former.
  
  Clipping high is psychologically more comforting, but apart from the extra time and energy wasted on rope management, it results in much bigger, less controlled falls because you're ignoring the extra rope in the system and you don't have a clear instinctive understanding of how far you're going to drop. You should be MORE afraid of clipping high, not less, and you need to keep reminding yourself of that, repeatedly overwriting your instinctive reaction with physics and logic.
  
  Falling is as much a technical skill as flagging or drop-knees, and the reason falling is still scary is that you haven't done enough of it to dial it in yet. Start incorporating clip-drop training into your warmups, taking a bunch of very controlled falls on super easy routes, slowly building up the height up to and then above the draw, and you'll have this licked in a couple of weeks.
  
  Followup recommendation - Vertical Mind: Psychological Approaches for Optimal Rock Climbing by Don McGrath and Jeff Elison is a fantastic read on the psychology of rock-climbing that explains where the illogical climbing-related short circuits and bluescreens come from, and gives solid zero-fluff science-backed strategies for addressing them.

I'm 6 months past an A2 tear and almost back to baseline. It is frustrating. Pegboard using "bombs" (see here) were good for power after the initial tear. I fully immobilized the finger with tape for a couple of months, then switched to this. You should be able to climb fairly hard open-handed, but crimps will shut you down for a while (I'm just starting to crimp again). Outside, I switched to trad and did a lot more traversing than usual indoors. You could try working towards some strength goals like 1 arm pull up or front levers. Finally, I kept some therapy puddy around to strengthen the pulley when I wasn't climbing.

I would say this is closer to the best advice, with one small change/opinion. As you get closer and closer to unassisted pull ups the best thing at the end of your work out is actually negatives, and bungie cord resistance.

RitFit Pull Up Assist Band - Premium Resistance Band for Pull Up Assistance, Resistance Training, Body Stretching, Powerlifting, Mobility Training https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00VJN9594/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ma-ACb6RP7W9E

These things can help with the bottom of the rep when your muscles are under the most tension

Yeah i think this is the most cost effective method, also allows me to change the weight.

This looks ideal: http://www.amazon.com/All-Pro-Adjustable-Exercise-10-Pound/dp/B0012RE2JA/ But don't really wanna drop $50 on it.

I'm all about pre-habbing. Is this the one you use?: https://www.amazon.com/FlexEx-Hand-Exerciser-Triple-Pack/dp/B00597E3QG/ref=sr_1_cc_2_a_it?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1498931616&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=flexex

It's out of stock but it looks like there are a lot of different variations. Is this the one you found most effective after trying other ones?

Don't do hangboard exercises. You haven't been climbing long enough. Do we not realize that most r/climbharder posts fall into two categories? 1. Hangboard workouts and 2. How to recover from injuries.

You've made great progress in 8 months! Do you climb outdoors much? Or mostly in the gym? Might I suggest Eric Horst's book, "How to Climb 5.12"?

Yes, it will give you an idea on how to structure your climbing sessions to be more productive. He operates on a 75% of your time spent in the gym should be climbing with a focus on practice, only 25% on supplementary work. You're at a similar level where technique is likely the limitation over pure strength.

If you want specific information on the strength training portion his text on that is worth a read also: https://www.amazon.com/Climb-Strong-Strength-Foundational-Training/dp/1495201538

I recently came back from a pulley injury. The best thing I could have done was taken a month off. It sucked at the time, but here I am three and a half months out and my finger feels great.

here are a few of the resources I used to help with my recovery:

H-Taping

Tendon/Pulley injury w/ Esther Smith and Dan Mirsky -- The video includes some good exercises to regain mobility in your finger

A2 Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbing -- The recovery chart at the bottom really helped me

some products that also helped:

Grip Strength Training Kit

Finger Massager

Therapy Putty

Edit: I used all this stuff after my injury, and within 8 weeks after the injury I was off of jugs and back to crimps.

I just bought a set of these finger extensor bands:

https://www.amazon.com/Stretcher-Resistance-Exerciser-Strengthener-Arthritis/dp/B076HPM822/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1STK90YS7SFQ6&keywords=finger+extensor+bands&qid=1562341305&s=gateway&sprefix=finger+exte%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-13

I'm curious if there is any risk of injury from overusing them? I've been kind of just using the easiest one throughout the day when on the computer or watching tv. Also should I only put the bands on the top finger segment or should I also do the middle segment at times?