(Part 2) Best products from r/computing

Rayzen 5
"Amazon.com: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler - YD2600BBAFBOX: Computers & Accessories" https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541748155&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ryzen+5&psc=1

The new geForce 1060
"Amazon.com: ASUS GeForce GTX 1060 6GB Dual-Fan OC Edition VR Ready Dual HDMI DP 1.4 Gaming Graphics Card (DUAL-GTX1060-O6G): Computers & Accessories" https://www.amazon.com/GeForce-Dual-Fan-Gaming-Graphics-DUAL-GTX1060-O6G/dp/B01JHQT1SE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541748298&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=1060+6gb&dpPl=1&dpID=51T1GaSIVLL&ref=plSrch

Motherboard
"Amazon.com: ASUS ROG STRIX B350-F GAMING AMD Ryzen AM4 DDR4 HDMI DisplayPort M.2 USB 3.1 ATX B350 Motherboard: Computers & Accessories" https://www.amazon.com/ROG-B350-F-GAMING-DisplayPort-Motherboard/dp/B071SGQP1Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541748454&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=am4+motherboard&dpPl=1&dpID=51tl1-gPBdL&ref=plSrch

8gb x2 ddr4 ram
"Patriot Memory Viper Elite Series DDR4 8GB 2400MHz (PC4-19200) Single Module (Black/Grey) - PVE48G240C6GY at Amazon.com" https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Memory-2400MHz-PC4-19200-Single/dp/B074Q1G6VR/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541748631&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ddr4+ram&dpPl=1&dpID=41pVPcbOWIL&ref=plSrch

Power
"Amazon.com: EVGA Supernova 750 G3, 80 Plus Gold 750W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode HDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Compact 150mm Size, Power Supply 220-G3-0750-X1: Computers & Accessories" https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0750-X1/dp/B005BE058W/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1541748778&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=power+supply&dpPl=1&dpID=51UcIW5x4QL&ref=plSrch


And pc case that you like :)

Some people here recommend an Apple machine, which is in my opinion not the ideal solution for you.

Photoshop requires lots of RAM, especially with large files, more so with RAW. The most recent MBP (17", 4GB RAM, Intel i7) retails at a whopping $ 2,500. I couldn't find the exact CPU-type of the MBP, even at their website. Have a look at the Asus G-Series, which deliver plenty performance at a reasonable price. Notebookcheck concludes both the Asus G74 and the latest Apple MBP 17" with 87% in their list of best DTR Laptops. Here you can find various benchmarks of the Asus G74.

Edit: You might find some help at /r/suggestalaptop and /r/hardware.

Step 1: Familiarize yourself with C++ (yes C++, not C) from cplusplus.com. This step is free.

Step 2: Learn how to use Objective-C for iOS programming from this amazing book.

That should be all you need.

The problem with building laptops is the extreme opposite to building a desktop. Desktop computers are typically conformist to a certain "form factor", usually in today's market this is called ATX. If you grab any ATX computer case off the shelf and (generally) any ATX motherboard, the screwholes and mounting points inside the case will correspond with those on the motherboard. This is one of the reasons it's so easy to build a desktop computer- there's very little guesswork as long as you align the (simple) form factors and processor socket types (there aren't many) and hard drive connectors (there are only two and they're as different as night and day).

Now, laptops. I've never once built a laptop but I've seen inside enough and been around enough to know that, in a nutshell, you ain't building a laptop like you do a desktop. Why? Size, no form factors like a desktop, and the fact that the "case" isn't so much a case, it's more like a fitted sleeve for whatever motherboard the manufacturers decided to put in it.

The best I can tell you, and by all means get a third and fourth and fifth opinion on this, is that if you want to "build" a laptop, get a "barebones" laptop, and "customize" it with your choice of hard drive and whatever else you're able to.

With a strangely heavy google search, I've found this:

http://www.amazon.com/937-168133-003-Sodimm-Serial-ATA-300-Super-multi/dp/B0038HX0VI

It's basically what you're going to have to "build" on if you decide to build a laptop. Basically, the only things you'd be able to "customize" in the laptop is how much RAM, the hard drive size, and which CPU you can choose. There's very little in real customization you get with laptops.

When I build computers for people, they sometimes ask me if I can build them a laptop. I can only find them decent deals on laptops, but never actually build one.

I think it depends on what kind of router you have. If your router is old as well, getting the latest, greatest, most expensive dongle might not be what you need.

If you are not sure what speed your router is, I would start out by trying the Edimax which is a tiny USB dongle that won't stick out of your laptop, and can do N speeds (WAY faster than your G speed) so long as your router can supply those speeds. Also, it's less than 10 bucks!

thank you. yeah i've basically figured I can just format my 2 3tb drives in exFAT, and then use something like this as a means of connecting my hdd to my friend's mac mini.

If you're going to be buying an SSD, why don't you just buy a cheap smart TV

http://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-D24-D1-Class-Smart-Black/dp/B01A0LGS7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458461619&sr=8-1&keywords=youtube+smart+tv

you'll make up the difference in your power bill in less than a year vs running a desktop + monitor

edit: noticed what sub i'm in, feel free to downvote

Continuing this Asus circle-jerk, I bought a laptop early this September. I researched my choice carefully and must say that I am very happy I chose Asus.

This is what you need. Only stereo though, if you want 5.1/7.1 you'll probably need a better sound card.

I bought mine from Radio Shack, if you don't want to wait for it to get shipped. I kinda like the kind with female RCA ends on it though so you can just get a couple long male/male RCA cables. Because of the length you are talking about you will probably require some adapters if you go with the male/male version.

20 meters is a long ways, most things would be not cheap - you'd probably look at some fibre. OK I just did a quick look on Amazon, not too badly priced for consumers, the ones we use at work are I think around 300$

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=psdc_3015395011_t1_B001PT1A7C

Comptia A+ one of the best basic entry level certifications/books/trainings.

Bose companion 2. Absolutely perfect for their size.

Oh man, get it from Amazon: You Save: $1,605.47 (99%)

I forgot about what the SSD and HDD. The SSD it came with is WD Green 240GB Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s which I know nothing about SSD but I know this isn't near the good mark, and a WD Blue 1TB Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache just like SSD I dont know whats consider a good HDD, I plan to invest into a 1TB or 2TB SSD and learn how to transfer everything from HDD to that SSD. I've never really done anything in BIOs so would need to look up vids and such for that. Will overclocking the CPU (if it offers it) or GPU harm the lifespan of it or not a noticeable difference? Never have done any OC before so just curious of downsides. I appreciate the reply and tips!

Blow out the fan with some canned air (you have access to the vents on the left side of the case) and see if that makes an improvement. If you're absolutely dead set on having the thermal paste replaced, take a stab at it. As long as you pay attention to which screws went where, you'll be fine. Take pics as you disassemble it so you have a record of what goes where.

You may need a spudger or guitar pick tool to help ease the case open. I have this set of tools (non-referral link), they're thoroughly useful for taking things apart.

You'll need to clean off the old thermal paste - 90% rubbing alcohol and a q-tip will do this nicely assuming it's actually thermal paste on there and not that grey rubbery crap, in which case you'll need a razor blade and patience.

Thermal paste is cheap to acquire, either the Cooler Master or Arctic Silver should do fine.

The short answer is "because it doesn't increase performance".

The long answer involves the Von Neumann bottleneck, memory wall, power wall and ILP wall. For the long story I refer to the relevant chapter in Computer architecture: a quantitative approach

Adding more cores like we've been doing with multi-cores is a stop-gap measure, allowing manufacturers to keep claiming increased performance.