(Part 2) Best products from r/consolerepair

TXINLEI 8586 110V Solder Station, 2 in 1 Digital Display SMD Hot Air Rework Station and Soldering Iron, 12pcs Different Soldering Tips,Solder Wire,Tweezers,Desoldering Pump,700W 480℃ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FJ6PNHF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IfYqDb03ZY8XT

I bought this mostly for the hot air station because I have a T12 style soldering station that I like better, but if I’m feeling lazy and don’t want to plug up both stations, I will use the iron from this kit and it works really well. It also comes with various solder tips, tweezers, picks, soldering handle holder, desoldering pump, some cheap solder (I haven’t tested the quality of this solder) and it comes with spare heating elements just in case one burns out.

I like using the K style tips (the one that’s angled). The T12 station I have has the KU tip it’s much smaller and easier to access smaller components. Watch some YouTube videos and get an idea. Don’t get to nervous about messing things up, go down to the thrift shop get an old DVD player or something cheap and practice your soldering and desoldering skills on that. This community is very great for helping others troubleshoot problems.

Also, with capacitors remember to trim legs and make sure you get the negative and positive leads correct, and voltage rating can be equal to or higher than the one being replaced, but capacitance has to be equal.

This should work better than the one you linked and has pretty good reviews. The NES has a cool ability to accept both AC and DC (the stock power supply was AC) with no preference to polarity on DC.

The barrel is 5.5 x 2.1 so it should fit fine.

I'm still amazed that nobody ever mentions the most effective way to clean contacts on a PCB: Scratch Pen (aka Fiberglass Pen / Pencil)

$6-8USD on Amazon.

Better than brasso. Better than sandpaper. Better than pink eraser. Better than isopropyl. Better than vinegar. These are all effective solutions to restore conductivity to corroded/worn pins/teeth, but for about the same price as a bottle of most of those liquids you can get something that works better, faster, and with less mess.

I suggest a quick isopropyl wipedown after using a scratch pen, just to pick up any metal dust left behind, but you can also use compressed air or a dry cloth if you want.

I'm assuming you're on a base? What does the wall outlet look like? Does it look like a standard US outlet?

You definitely blew the fuse in the power supply if its the 110AC only supply and you plugged it in to 240AC. The good new is your console should still be ok if the fuse did its job properly.

Here's a relatively cheap 3rd party 110-240V supply that will work both over there and back home. https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Upgraded-Version-CBSKY-Adapter-Voltage/dp/B017YL0X5E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481773866&sr=8-2&keywords=xbox+one+power+supply

Not sure if you will need an adapter plug for the wall outlet, but I'm assuming not since you were able to plug in the US power supply. Hope this helps, and stay safe over there.

Edit: This might be a higher quality power brick https://www.amazon.com/Updated-Version-Adapter-Charger-Supply-Console/dp/B01LZRJTGR/ref=pd_cp_63_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BKK37GBNCDB7WTKV57J7 Still 110-240 And its a bit cheaper too.

Oh man. Yeah if I dropped just a single capacitor I wouldn't even bother looking for it. Luckily they're cheap.

Definitely get a good screw driver. You won't regret it. This is the set I have and it has saved me from a bunch of annoying situations. Probably not the best kit you can get but it's comfortable to use and has a good variety of driver tips.

Here are a few different options for you.

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This is the one that I've ordered. They work well! Super easy to swap out too. ~10 minute fix. We help with this kind of stuff over at r/etrorestoration as well!

https://www.amazon.com/F2C-853d-Supply-Soldering-Station/dp/B018LFTWTK

this thing? it has a power supply in it?! well shiiittttt buying it now...

oh and welcome to Canada

https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOHOME-Soldering-Rework-Station-Supply/dp/B07J5W2TVX/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=hot+air+station+power+supply&qid=1565643011&s=gateway&sr=8-2

jesus, gunna have to look around. i'll probably end up with something like this though

https://www.amazon.ca/BK-858A-Brushless-Rework-Station-Stand/dp/B07B8VTWBD?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_16707359011

anyway, game gear can be done without a hot air gun... hmm. i do have shaky hands, maybe i'll do it in the morning prior to my coffee. i've got a week off of work coming up, i think i'll buy replacement caps now and see how it goes. as for the method to remove the old caps you mention, i've seen youtubers do it that way, i think 8-bit guy was the guy doing it. made it look pretty easy. im mostly worried about the "caps that look like SMD resistors" i do not know their names.

If you're gonna do this with more consoles (it's a particularly nice setup to have for working on 7th-gen consoles in general), definitely get a kit. You're basically limited to amazon, ebay or aliexpress for the most part to get anything that isn't drastically overpriced. I know you're trying to keep it cheap, but if you're getting into this kind of work, you might want to know the right tools.

Here's some example BGA reball kits, they include stencils for PS3 BGA's: amazon, ebay, ali. (I can't vouch for the credibility of these sellers, but these things are pretty generic.)

Dunno who you talked to, but it's definitely not impossible/pointless, I've seen a few shops that rake in cash on reball jobs for laptops/consoles/etc. Considering that when it's done right, the repair will probably last the life of the chip, I almost always opt for reball on faulty consoles; gives me an opportunity to replace the lead-free solder with reliable leaded solder balls.

Although not the cheapest, ebay is probably the easiest way to find faulty systems.

Some equipment recommendations:

• A TS100 soldering iron. I use a more expensive Hakko FX888-D, but I've heard great things about this one for the price. Try to get a chisel tip for general purpose use, it has a balanced combination of size and heat transfer.
  
• iFixit 64-bit toolkit, for handling all the various screws you'll encounter.
  
• Soldapullt desoldering pump. Don't bother with the Chinese knock-offs, they seem to break easily.
  
• Fine 63/37 solder. One roll will last you a long time. Don't bother with cheap Chinese solder, it will not have the advertised metal composition and give poor results.
  
• I like this flux, but it's kind of pricey.
  
• Desoldering braid is essential.
  
• Neoteck multimeter. Very good for the price.
  
• If you need to remove SMD components, a 858D hot air station available under various Chinese brands you've never heard of. Kind of sketchy, but works and has not burned down my home yet.

Welcome to the wonderful world of retro gaming in 2018.
Hopefully you have a setting for it like mentioned, if not, your tv just doesn't like that resolution. Solution is different tv, modded console, or upscaler. They do make cheap ones, but they are usually not great and you get what you pay for. If you find a Tv that still supports Svideo that's the best cheap option for n64. i've actually had good experience with [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LE3EAIK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) cable.
Also remember that a lot of the cheap composite to hdmi "upscalers" don't actually upscale at all. They just convert the composite line to hdmi, and still send the same signal. So you get the same problem. Also some HDMI inputs just don't like 240 or even 480i at all. I ran into this thinking a cheap $10 SD to HDMI adapter would solve a similar problem for my genesis. Nope, not a true upscaler.

Thank you! I'll give this one a shot

Edit: blech! 17 bucks!? lords of Amazons bring me luck

Edit2: Yay! $8 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LKNEBG/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=

Wouldn't help too much. I'd just recommend going through the above steps.

Also, rubbing alcohol and a nice fiberglass pencil can help as well in some cases.

Something like:
https://www.amazon.com/Scratch-Brush-Fiberglass-Colors-vary/dp/B0019V18D2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484439545&sr=8-1&keywords=fiberglass+pencil

It's been a while but i'm pretty sure those are just DB9 connectors. Here is a link to some from amazon. You may have to do a bit of hunting to find some that look correct tho.

This allows you to read and write to Memory cards via USB. A lot of old readers used the LPT port for doing this and they're becoming hard to find.

The main reason for making it was to use it in conjunction with MCLauncher which lets you place psx executables on a memory and run them directly. It's great for writing diagnostic tools, putting them on the card, and then running them on a system when it comes in. Pad tests, video testing, etc..

This is a cheap Nano v3 knockoff. A 3 pack runs $10. These have the bootoaders already burned and the USB chip works perfectly. The card needs 3.6v (you can use 5v, but it may shorten the life of the card) and the Nano clone is giving us 5v, so a voltage divider was created to drop it down. Cheap knockoff memory cards will need an external 7.6v supply. You can get this directly from a fat PS1 power supply.

This is running MemCARDuino.

If you have a system that isn't reading discs and if it's a later model without a parallel port, this is a great way to still run system diagnostics.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w24Pq-EZVU0

Take the battery out. Get a toothbrush. Some of this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=T9K663XMBYF5&dchild=1&keywords=crc+electronic+cleaner&qid=1575079801&sprefix=crc+ele%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-2

Scrub off the board and rinse with highest concentration of alcohol you can get. I use 91%. Repeat until it looks good. Replace the battery, because I'm sure that one is a gonner.

I found something like https://www.amazon.ca/Retro-Bit-Power-Adapter-Black-Nintendo-Consoles/dp/B001S2VT6I/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Retro+Bit+Universal+3+in+1&qid=1570125648&s=gateway&sr=8-1


Anyone have experience with these?

That's how they're supposed to look, don't worry. The pins don't look corroded, so if you've already cleaned them with alcohol, try to use contact cleaner, but if that doesn't work, than polishing them with Brasso will usually do the trick.

But, I do t think the pins are the problem, I took a closer look at your traces and there seems to be two black spots on #9 that could possibly be a break in the traces. Try and check the conductivity if you have a multimeter.