Best products from r/cosplay

TL;DR - Cosplay marketing & PR101 book by Philip Odango - good place to start on the road to professional cosplaying. AND a short beginner's check list of tools for foamsmithing.

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  For "cosplaying professionally" I'm going to shamelessly plug my friend's book Cosplay Marketing & PR101 You can check out his IG page here. IMO What sets Canvas Cosplay apart from other cosplayers is his range in the cosplays he chooses. With a background in theatre, he knows what to put into his builds to put on a good show. His book talks about the points in which you need to address in order to successfully turn a hobby into something you can do professionally.
  
  Now for my area of focus... I'm not a professional per se, but I have been cosplaying since the 90's back when it was still known as just wearing a costume (or being called other names). I recently took on foamsmithing with the help of 2 youtube channels Evil Ted Smith & Punished Props. I learned a lot from these two and continue to learn with every build. (tooting my own horn) I have several awards and accolades so take it for what it's worth. Here's a quick checklist for beginners in foamsmithing:
  
  This list is compiled from all of the things I've learned in the last 2 years working with EVA foam. My first EVA build gave me a lot to learn from and I'd like to see other beginners get better with each build. I'm gonna put the word [Optional] for the items that are not completely necessary for first time builders, but definitely worth while down the road.
  
  
• Dremel (or rotary tool) - I've seen these go for as low as $30 for one that has 2 speeds. Since it's mostly for costuming, the 2 speeds is plenty enough.
  
  
• Besides the dremel, if you can, pick up a Belt Sander from Harbor Frieght (particularly when it goes on sale and they issue a 20% coupon) I got mine for under $50 and it is a time saver! [Optional]
  
  
• For the heat gun, I picked one up from Harbor Freight and it was under $20 at the time. It's still going strong and I have had no issues. Or you can find some on Amazon as well.
  
  
• Wood Burning Tool - get one of these bad boys. This will help you add some great details to the foam. There is a good starter kit also, which contains a bunch of nibs, including a soldering nib, as well as a hot knife attachment. The hot knife will cut through foam like butter. One note though, if you don't plan on getting a separate dedicated hot knife, use the one that comes w/ the kit for the finer cuts. The wood burner is a very versatile tool! [Optional]
  
  
• For the glue. I would suggest Barge Contact cement. This is what I use and it's proven to be a great option. Hot glue is still very helpful and can be used for quick fixes. My only reason for not using hot glue for foam is that it takes time to dry and you have to hold it in place. Also, sometimes it creates messy seams. There are other contact cements that will work as well, sorry I don't have their exact brand names listed.
  
  
• Kwik Seal paintable caulk or flexible spackle - to cover up the seams you can use either of these. Difference between the two, 1) the caulk needs to be smoothed out before it dries, you can use water. You cannot sand this once it cures. 2) the spackle can be sanded after it dries if you don't apply it smooth the first time.
  
  
• Mod Podge or Flexible Clear Coat spray - To coat the finished and painted product, you will want to use something that will protect it and also be flexible. Unless, you want it to be very rigid, you can use Epsilon Pro to coat it, but I can't guarantee that it won't crack. Especially areas that will need some flex. [Optional] I say this is optional because some crafters don't do clear coating.
  
  
• Eye Protection & Respirator Mask - you don't want fine bits of foam flying into your eyes or lungs. Make sure you get eye pro and a good filtered mask, preferably one with replaceable cartidges.
  
  Here are some helpful options for your search for EVA foam. Hopefully one of the stores I list here will be some-what local for you. Home Depot, Lowes, 5 Below, BJ's, Costco, Walmart, & Harbor Freight all carry the EVA (floor mat) foam. I have personally purchased and used foam from all of these locations.
  
  
• Your standard craft foam (from craft stores like JoAnne's or Michaels) will be 2mm. These are great for accent pieces or adding fine details. Some stores carry 6mm craft foam as well. Keep in mind anything under 6mm will need some sort of rigid structure in order to maintain a good shape for armor. (like cardboard or something)
  
  
• Harbor Freight has 4 (24"x24") tiles for $8.99 and sometimes have an additional 20% off coupon circulating around. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. They also carry a 72" long (8mm) foam roll with a heat treated diamond patterned back for $9.99.
  
  
• At BJ's & Costco, I've bought some from these places as well, they carry 8 (24"x24") tiles for $9.89. But people have complained of its quality. (I personally have never had any issues.) The back of their EVA foam is generally heat treated w/ a diamond pattern.
  
  
• Home Depot & Lowes, (also Walmart) carries the 4 pack (25"x25") anywhere between $20 - $25. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. Though these seem fine, they are more expensive and are just like the ones at Harbor Freight.
  
  
• 5 Below carries only single tiles (multiple colors) for $5.00. Same as the others, standard heat treated texture on the other side.
  
  
• TNT Cosplay Supply carries various sizes and thicknesses of EVA/Craft foam without the heat treatment backing. This is especially good if you don't want to have to deal with sanding down the heat treated backing to help glue adhere better.
  
  Depending on your ultimate area of focus, you will likely use everything from needlework to foamsmith in most costumes you make. Good Luck & Hope this helps.

Dremel is a name brand for hand held rotary tools. I have and have had several so I will give you my .02

Vacuum powered - You connect it to a shop vac or other vacuum and the suction powers it, while this may sound good on the surface I can't see this having anykind of power from this I suggest avoiding it.

Cordless - Battery powered, I have had several. You get less torque than with a corded version, and they run down. I do have their new micro version and I like it so far, but cordless will always be a balance between power and battery life.

Corded - Best bet IMHO, get more features for less money than with the cordless and do not have to worry about waiting for one to charge.

Suggested Features -

• Do not stick with a single speed version, go with variable speed. In fact the more speed options the better IMHO. Different bits require different speeds, for example a cutting bit needs to run quicker than a wire brush.
  
  
• Multi Tool chuck - Some bits come in different diamters, this one will take them all. I love this and have replaced the old style chuck on all of my units.
  
  Bits - This will depend on what you want to use it for. I use my Dremels for everything from mixing epoxy to cutting and sanding everything (metal, wood, foam, fiberglass, etc). You can get more for your money if you buy a family of bits in a kit (example) but a few bits I have found most useful are:
  
  
• Sanding drum - then you buy the different sleves that slide over the tip and come in different grits. Again look for kits.
  
  
• Cut off disk - Go for the re-enforced ones like this
  
  
• carbide disk - Love this thing it cuts wood and softer material very well.
  
  
• carbide bits Come in many shapes and sizes, I find that they work well for shaping wood and softer materials.
  
  NOTE Like most power tools, a rotary tool takes a bit of practice, they can get away from you and eat up material (including your jeans and leg) if you are not careful. I have found that 90 percent of the time a light touch.. pull back.. and light touch.. pull back is the best method.
  
  edit: spelling and format
  

..I'm being dragged away for a little bit, so I'll make this as quickly as possible.

-Super permanent for days on end - Sharpie. It stinks, it can bleed onto other material, and it can smudge onto your skin.

• http://www.wikihow.com/Create-Your-Own-Temporary-Tattoo
  
  
• Eyeliner. We once did this with super cheap eyeliner ( http://fc09.deviantart.net/fs17/f/2007/188/8/b/Pose_by_cactusmomma.jpg ), but anything that touched it, smeared it. Proceed with caution. Good for if you're doing a quick photoshoot and have to wash, run, and change into something else in under an hour.
  
  
• http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/abtatpaint.aspx This stuff is awesome. You don't need too much of it at a time, it stays on for hours on end, and dries like liquid latex. Tends to take several days to scrub off. It's also great fun for messing around with for shiz and giggles. Well worth the price.
  
  As with everything mentioned here, please make sure you use a sealant...be it actual makeup sealer ( http://www.amazon.com/Final-Seal-Matte-Makeup-Sealer/dp/B005MZ4A7C ) or simple hairspray (Aquanet is great). That way, it stays in place, won't get on you, anyone else, or on anyone else's property, which could hold you liable for cleaning damages! Hope this helps.

I think without totally removing them you'll end up just having to cover the whole shield with something else to get a perfectly smooth surface unfortunately. If you want to stay with a clear material, try looking up "clear acrylic skylight domes". You would have to make the handles but that's not super difficult.



If you want to go with metal, look up the "Flexible Flyer Steel Saucer". Here's an amazon link, but I'm in the US so you may do better searching for it yourself: https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Flyer-Saucer-Slider-Winter/dp/B0006N8WYM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_200_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2RPS2NDVWKB7EPVDQ40R

If you cut off the edge that's super rounded in, you're left with an almost perfect captain america shield shape that's actually metal. Strip away the paint and polish the steel, then go in with an "anodized aluminum look" spray paint (Dupli-color is a good brand). This will give you a great shiny painted metallic finish look. Make sure you clear coat everything once you're done so the steel won't rust.

I would suggest EVA foam. It is easy to work with and CHEAP. You can often find it at hardware stores as workshop flooring. Harbor Freight sells them in packs of 4 big tiles for $10...which is more than enough to make a large sword. I love Harbor Freight for cheap hardware stuff... check them out if you have one around.

Basically, this stuff;

http://www.amazon.com/We-Sell-Mats-Anti-Fatigue-Interlocking/dp/B001EJI6CK/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_0_1

It is easy to cut into desired shapes. You will probably want to add some sort of boning for support (wooden dowels, bent coat hangers, whatever). Judging from the Zabuza sword you want to make, you might need more of a mop handle support.

Before painting it, you will want to seal it. This is best done first with heat to melt a lot of the foam cells on the surface closed. I used a cheap heat gun I got for $15... its like an industrial hair dryer. A hair dryer would probably work to if its hot enough at close range. A very quick brush with a blow torch has been used for this purposed. You want to hit it just enough to make it a little shiny... not deform the top. I suggest cutting out a small tile to test with first.

After the melt sealing, I suggest going over it with Modge Podge craft glue (from any hobby shop... Hobby Lobby, Michaels, ect). Once that dries, you can prime and paint!

There is a useful EVA foam tutorial series that you might want to look at,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXxDfv2NaDY

Best of luck! I'm having a blast working on my DragonCon costume now. I'm doing an armored version of Captain Harlock from the old Galaxy Express animes.

Sure,

I got something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Zone-Tech-Flexible-Waterproof-Light/dp/B00D1ASSY6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1414545078&sr=8-3&keywords=red+led+strips

They're very easy to work with, you can cut them to the length you need and they'll still light. I used one strip per eye, put them in parallel with a single A23 battery and a switch.

If you're trying to avoid soldering that all together which would be ideal, there are some small tube things (can't think of the name) you can buy at radioshack which you feed both wire ends through and then clamp down on it with a wire crimper.

The battery did go in the mask along with the switch, both were housed in in the mouth area and fit pretty easily. A23's are pretty tiny themselves, and you can find pretty minimal battery holders like this http://www.amazon.com/5Pcs-Battery-Clip-Holder-Black/dp/B00ABRQYPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414548326&sr=8-1&keywords=a23+holder

Let me know if I can be of any more help!

There are some good tips already here but part of getting the look right is having the right products so here are some great ones I have used and some I'd like to use:

Ben Nye bruise color wheel for those nasty reds, purples and especially the yellows and greens you wont find in normal make up.

Ben Nye stage blood in zesty mint for liquid or oozing blood. Edible is a must if you put it in your mouth but keep in mind this does not dry! If you put it on your face or knuckles and then accidentally swipe something it will get everywhere.

Scaring liquid to create small cuts, perfect for a split lip or eyebrow this product shrinks and creates a depression in your skin so it actually looks like a chunk of flesh is gone.

Scar wax is great if you want to build up a broken nose or puffy black eye but it is very sticky and needs to be powdered with either a setting powder or a foundation.

Also here is a pretty good video on how to use these products. Its only missing the scar liquid which you could just lay under the split lip and eyebrow.

Good luck and try not to get blood on Stan Lee!

Seconding got2b Freezing spray - works really well. Remember to start with a bit and add more if you need to.

If you need to cut it, you can start off with cutting with scissors if you have a bunch, but finish off with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Diane-D123-Tinkle-Hair-Cutter/dp/B001DYM62C

Finish all the ends with that and make all small adjustments with it. It makes it look much more natural.

Speaking of natural, you can spray a bit of Cantu Shea Butter Sheen Spray at the end to make the hair less plasticy looking and more natural. Plus it smells really good. You can find that in most drug stores.

It's important to remember that wigs, when styled, will keep the shape that they cool in. They're plastic - if you heat it, you can shape it easily, but if it's still warm, it'll lose the shape when you stop styling it. Eg if you want curls, you should use heated curlers and let them cool in the wig before removing them.

Otherwise, I'd look for a tutorial targeted to what you want to do - spikes, big curly coifs, etc. You can use felt/padding to build around if you want to make something big.

Super cute! I love your makeup - you don't usually see people do blue eyeshadow for Miku but it really works!

I'd second the other commenter who mentioned the bangs. A good thing for bangs is a razor trimmer, if you run the ends of wig hair through one of those it helps it look neater and more natural. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Diane-D123-Tinkle-Hair-Cutter/dp/B001DYM62C/ref=sr_1_19_s_it?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1502434520&sr=1-19&keywords=tinkle+razor

I just put some painters tape on both sides and used a dremel with the cutting tip to cut the acrylic globe. Just take your time and you should have no problems with cracking. I used some small magnets on the globe so I could take it off from the helmet base because I wasn't too happy with how my base turned out and I may make a new base.

Also, I would hold off from the 16" version. It may look too big. A lot of other people have been using the 12" globes but I have a larger head and with putting stuffing on the inside the 14" worked great.

If you want to be able to breathe better, just use little fans on the helmet. I had one mounted in my chest piece with a tube that went up in the helmet to give me fresh air. But if you are doing the mocap version you could always mount in the back of the helmet since you won't have any cotton stuffing to get clogged in the fan. These are nice and small and push a fair amount of air:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775ZM4DW

Thank you! Of course, I'd be happy to help in any way I can.

The shield is actually a sled from Amazon, but it can be found on other sites too for about 25$.

While a dremel can be used, because of the extent of the sanding required I prefer some good old fashioned sanding sponges. Any mistakes that were made in the cutting can also be fixed here.

I used a Dewalt DW317K Jigsaw, and specifically a DM3778 Blade, though any blade that is small and fine will do nicely (the finer, the better).

The straps are belts with holes cut in them, and screws are simply glued onto the shield before a bolt is screwed in. This video explains what to do - it's not the most efficient way but the rest of the video can also be used as a guideline.

It probably took me a month and a half to two months, but I have been busy and had to take long hiatuses ranging up to three weeks at a time. You can probably buff the whole thing out in about two weeks (four days cutting and sanding), (four days painting), (two days attaching the straps), (two days repairing any mistakes and adding an optional gloss) with only an hour or two every night.

No need to apologize - your questions are great! PM me if you have any more! Best of luck friend.

Wow, you weren't kidding. It's been surprisingly hard to find something that matches the description. Here's the closest thing I found: https://www.amazon.com/Swhiteme-Mens-Kimono-Large-X-Large/dp/B017OIZ4GA/ref=sr_1_27?keywords=men%27s%2Bred%2Bkimono&qid=1557463589&s=gateway&sr=8-27&th=1&psc=1

Thankfully kimono/yukata are easy to make if it absolutely comes down to it. Good luck m8

Yes! I always tell people, if your cosplay doesnt have pockets, it could probably use a good utility belt! Like

This one or That one for a super hero/villain, I have This Brown one that i wear with my knight armor.
not having pockets BLOWS. especially at a Con where you want quick access to Phone/Camera/Money

I love my Dremel's and use them for many things around the house. Here is a quick general rundown of my opinion. Avoid the one that can be powered by a vacum like a shop vac. Corded Dremels will have more torque than the battery powered ones. The first cordless I had I did not like, but the new one I love. As for corded, I believe the largest difference in models is the number of different speeds. I suggest going with one that offers a large number of speeds, as different materials require different RPMs to cut effectively. Let me know if you any other questions.

Walmart sells LED rope lights in-store that come in different colors. They are intended for outdoors decoration and located in the lighting section (hardware and light bulbs, not lamps) of the store. However, these are not battery powered, and as far as I can tell, you cannot program them to flash on and off.

An alternative would be to solder some waterproof LED strips to a DC connector, which you can then plug into a battery pack. If you go this route, make sure you research voltage and all that (not my strong suit, so I can't help you there). Also, make sure your battery source is protected in some sort of waterproof container, or just unplug it and keep it inside when not in use.

Maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Omars-24000mAh-Portable-Universal-Compatible/dp/B073P81Z9V/

Seems like a lot for a little reward though, unless you have another use for it. A small sound effect box may be better.

They make inkjet temporary tattoo paper. It seems to last a lot longer than any paint and wont smudge at all. Might want to give it a try. May need to re apply after a couple of days tho. But they are water proof as long as you dont rub them off in the shower.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043WJ3OA/

Tutorial video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1y4d-cmR1U

BTW great Jack Sparrow. I remember seeing you up at Phx Comicon.
I was Vega from Street fighter and I used a Body paint crayon (I got it from Arizona art supply) for the snake tattoo. It worked great for 1 day. It did smear a bit tho by the end of the day and would not suggest it for detailed things like tattoos. I plan on trying the temporary tattoo paper next time so I can get more detail. It seems to be the only other thing i could come up with.

For anyone wondering about body paint, I used Mehron Paradise Paint in the colors Storm Cloud and White for Marceline.

We have more Bubbline photos to share on our IGs :) Marceline & Bubblegum

>Mark Cheng stormtrooper boots

Oh sweet, thank you! I just did a google search and saw the design and then found these on Amazon, which look like the same thing.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Funtasma-Mens-Trooper-12-Combat-Boot/dp/B00IK6Q3P2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=white+boots+men&qid=1555968436&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Handsome Jack has a lot of layers. Blue pants, yellow shirt, modified lab coat, leather/brown vest, and a blue suit jacket. I'm from the US and we have these... like Army Navy stores where you could get a leg holster, but maybe a costume shop, hunting store, or perhaps just online (just worried about shipping time). You could even cheat and make it a bag. All the little metal bits/belt buckle could use foam boards and some paint and glue. The hard part will be the mask. Paper mache would probably be the easiest. Good luck! And post pictures when you're done! :)

Thanks!

It's a "bargin outlet store". I don't think they have a site you can order from.

You can find EVA foam online pretty easily. Ebay and Amazon have plenty of options. Just Search for "EVA Foam".

Thanks :D Looks good, what did you make it out of? Or was that the foam...? Is it like this foam http://www.amazon.com/We-Sell-Mats-Anti-Fatigue-Interlocking/dp/B001EJI6CK/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_0_1

You can actually purchase temporary tattoo paper that you use in your printer, it's pretty great.

http://smile.amazon.com/Silhouette-MEDIA-TATTOO-Temporary-Tattoo-Paper/dp/B0043WJ3OA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412780655&sr=8-1&keywords=temporary+tattoo+paper

This stuff works like a charm for scars. Put on 10-15 coats, letting it dry in between, and you get a really nice scar. This is a test for mine.

Wow, thank you!

I actually used printable tattoo paper and a vector I created of the tattoo. I actually have another tattoo under the elbow band that would be in the way if getting a full length arm tattoo, but I do like the design a lot.

I want to toss up a few helpful youtube channels before putting in any of my own learned experiences.
Punished Props, EvilTed, and Kamui Cosplay all have really good videos on tools, what they are good for, good techniques, how to make and use patterns, etc. I've watched tons of these videos and have learned so much from them.


I do my best to digitally size patterns to my height or arm length, or whatever the template is for.

Beveled edges in foam aren't too difficult. Just take a really sharp knife and cut. You can take a pen and mark where you want it to be hold your knife at the right angle, and maintain the angle while you cut. Please, feel free to practice bevels on scrap foam. You'll get better as you do it.
https://youtu.be/FnVdDso3E1I

On the top of cutting foam! Get a good sharpener to save on blades!
I don't know how familiar you are with foam work yet, but after a few cuts your blade will begin to dull, and your cuts won't be as smooth.
I can't recommend this enough.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WALUV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SMALDbKXB5112

This Kershaw sharpener has made my utility knife (the kind with the snap away segments) last YEARS. 100% worth the $12.

Typically the 6-7mm EVA foam is referring to those interlocking floor mats. These can be found at hardware stores like Home Depot or Lowes for pretty cheap. They typically will have a textured side and smooth side.

I just used acrylic paint from the dollar store honestly, can't remember the name. But I used Delta Textile Medium https://www.amazon.ca/Plaid-8-Ounce-Textile-Acrylic-Ceramcoat/dp/B000XZTD28/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502212450&sr=8-2&keywords=textile+medium
to mix it with. Which basically turns any acrylic paint into fabric paint.

All the armor is EVA foam from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E4XL3E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5CuOub0KQ6CRS). The details are done in craft foam.

there's actually tattoo paper you can buy off amazon. Just size up the arrows and print on almost any printer. I plan on using this one for a future Riza Hawkeye cosplay.

Here's a thread from a year ago-or-so from someone that sent the design into a custom online store for temp tattoos (he says he e-mailed the company with the designs and got a quote so idk how much it cost).

If you can find high res pictures of the tattoo and access to an inkjet printer (though some people say they haven't had problems with laser printers in some reviews), you can also get temporary tattoo paper, and print them yourself.