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If I could give you my two cents on this, as I just spent the whole last week looking for the less "intrusive" way to mount the raspberry screen with the case that your are talking about.

I tried a magnetic CD mount that I have for my phone and that wouldn't hold the pi, neither the magnets nor attaching it directly with screws to the pi. It probably has to do with the weight of the screen and the mount being for a phone, but also the fact that the back of the pi case comes off very easily, so you are going to have to find a way to secure it better. If you want to try the magnetic mount, I would recommend something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Magnetic-Universal-Smartphones-including/dp/B00V54LQO4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1521574100&sr=8-6&keywords=cd+mount, because you will be able to tighten the part that holds the magnets, so it might be able to support the pi screen.
Another thing, with this mount the pi screen is going to protrude a lot, so it won't be flush to the CD/stereo. In the bright say, you will be able to angle it as you please and it will be closer for use.

I agreed that the 2 DIN slot is the best looking way, but it depends in the car that you own and how important is your stereo to the overall operation of the car. In my case, I can't take the stereo out, as it is linked to the rear view camera and I really like that.

I did a custom install, picking up ideas from other people in the forum.

I have a pixel 2XL i found it easier to do the following.

1 x 12v to USB charger good quality with quick charge etc (not crucial as pi wont use QC) from my dash outlet to power the pi using this cable - this was the only cable i found which would provide enough power to the PI when i plug a micro usb to both screen and pi.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MTYA3QK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I then used a 12v charger with PD (link bellow) which fast charges my Pixel 2 as fast as it can take.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B077ZRBPNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Obviously i use wifi for my connection but its pretty smooth these days.

My next project is to use a USB battery bank as a UPS been the car and the PI but what i need is one which can charge through USB PD and output 3+ amps at the same time.... any ideas there would be welcome!

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Also u/cydia2020 that USB C headder is a pretty neat idea, i'm now wondering about just putting that on the Pi too and then i dont need the split cable

I installed it today and it's pretty good. The sides are a little short. There's about 2mm on each side that is not covered, but up and down it's perfect. My edges will probably be covered by the bezel anyway.

It also has a hole for the Fire camera (on the Fire) which I don't need, but it looks fine anyway. This screen is almost a "half gloss". You can still see reflections, but they're definitely muted. I like it so far.

It's cheap at only $6 for 3.

This one is:https://amazon.com/gp/product/B015IKFXM6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the reply.

Ok, so, I plug the phone (which has quick charging) into the Pi to run AA, and connect my phone to the car's bluetooth stereo, and that keeps steering wheel controls. Awesome. From what I gathered, it seemed like it could, but I wanted to double check.

I have a quick charger that that has two USB ports. Do I need more than that, or will 2 do? https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Compatible-Devices-Anker-PowerDrive/dp/B07H4LH6P7/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=anker+car+charger&qid=1554666838&s=wireless&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

I was planning on housing it all in this: https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-7-Inch-Touch-Screen/dp/B01GQFUWIC/ -- since the HMDI port is accessible, which I'm assuming I'll need if I end up adding a back-up camera.

And yah, good tip. I'll definitely build it out of my car to test everything before I install it.

I figured all rotary encoders were the same. I'm fairly new to them, anyways I'm using these ones: https://www.amazon.com/Gufastore-Encoder-Anti-Static-Tweezers-Arduino/dp/B07BN3DGBS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536956359&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rotary+encoder&psc=1

So all this program is doing is converting the rotary encoder directional input and allowing me to control media through the gpio header on the rpi. The gpio ability is already in crankshaft but hooking up a rotary encoder directly to the pi is exciting and doesn't work as you'd want it to. So this simulates pushing a button, or simply grounding the gpio pin you want to when you dial the encoder left or right.

At the top of the script is a sorta wiring guide for how it's currently scripted. I hook up the CLK and DT from the encoder to pins 7 & 8 on the pro micro, these are essentially the left and right rotational direction of the encoder. SW is connected to pin 9, this is pushing the rotary encoder button (center click like a joystick) - these are the inputs on the pro micro. Pins 4, 5 and 6 on the pro micro are the outputs and they output directly to the raspberry pi GPIO header. 5 and 6 go to the predefined vol up/down pins, and then you need to add the play/pause or whatever function you want to the gpio config on the rpi SD card.

I take the 5v out from the RPI gpio header to power the arduino, and that all connects to the + connection on the rotary encoder. Same with ground, to arduino and to the encoders. Once you program the arduino you don't need to plug it in via usb again. It gets it's power direct from the rpi.

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I'll be using two rotary encoders (there are enough pins on the rpi to do two of these, if you wanted to have next/previous track on another encoder) so I'll have a copy of my GPIO config and installation pictures this weekend.

Just buy a dedicated 5A supply like this -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1FEALU/

I can see why you'd want the cig adapter as it gives you a USB option right away. Those things tend to be way under-powered tho. What I did is bought the supply I linked, and I use it to power both a powered USB hub and my pi.

For the pi, I soldered a female usb plug like this to power my pi via USB -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072M6SJL8/

Since it's only supplying power you only need to solder the 2 outer USB pins (+5V and GND). With this you'll be sure to have plenty of power on tap to charge your phone AND use AA at the same time w/o problems.

The best thing is to power all your devices w/ a USB hub. This also allows you to make your USB ports more accessible. Mine sits in my glovebox.

You can of course go with a JustBoom Amp Hat to produce stereo output up to about 55w. Using this output you can connect to a factory amplifier using a car stereo wiring harness (this is how I am powering my 11 speakers in my 2004 Dodge Durango with Infinity Sound).

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Alternately you could go with a simple DAC Hat such as the Hi-Fi Berry (linked above) or the JustBoom DAC Hat to provide output to a sound processor or multi-channel amplifier. As I upgrade my speakers, I will be adding a sound processor and multiple amplifiers to drive all the speakers and some larger subwoofers.

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A third option is to use a 3.5mm to RCA connector for our sound output from the Pi or secondary DAC (USB or Hat) with 3.5mm output. The Soundblaster Play! 3 is plug and play and works great for this application. From the RCA output you can connect sound processors and/or amplifiers to power your system.

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To answer your question, your phone does the largest portion of the processing and provides the "source" for audio/video output which is transmitted via the USB cable to the Pi where Android Auto utilizes the Pi hardware to output the display and sound through your configured paths.

Hope this helps...

Not sure about "crappy" USB power banks, but RAVPower makes some good ones. The 20kmah I bought on Amazon for $46 in 2017 has been a damned champ in a black car, in Texas heat, running a dashcam for ~10 hours 5 days a week. I would not call that, "crappy". It should also fit your needs. You simply need a good QC charger, and good micro USB cable (I can't find a good USB-C cable/Charger combo that will charge as fast as QC and micro USB cable).

The hard part is when you want to shut it off, and not just drain the battery. You may want to get a switch so you can cut power between the Pi and bank, that way you can cut the power and not waste the charge for when you need it.

Here's how I've got it: assuming you have a DC-DC 12v-5v Step Down (of at least 5A) or two in parallel for two 5V 3A outputs, use one of those as power for the hub. I believe Fast Charge requires 3.1 VDC. Then, you'll need a USB break out and a Micro-USB breakout for good measure. ( https://smile.amazon.com/MakerHawk-Adapter-Converter-Interface-Breakout/dp/B07MBSTZYG/) Now you'll need to solder the USB breakout the following way: pins GND, D+, D- and ID (3 inner most ones) to the corresponding pins on the Micro-USB. Then wire the GND (again) and VCC (outermost ones) to a 5V 3A power step down. Then use a simple Micro-USB adapter cable to the Micro-USB connected to the Pi, and a simple Type C USB cable from the USB breakout to charge your phone.

This will basically connect your phone's data and ground pins to the Raspberry Pi (for Music/Android Auto/etc.) and will use a fresh larger power source for the USB's power pin. The ground is common, so you'll be sure to have the same voltage on both devices.

Here's a simple schematic to better understand:

https://imgur.com/a/yPeZSTg

A few more I found each says they work with the PI, but will they work with Crankshaft?

https://www.amazon.com/Longruner-Capacitive-Display-800x480-Raspberry/dp/B071X8H5FB/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527688538&sr=8-4&keywords=7+Inch+Capacitive+Touch+Screen+Monitor

This one says Driver Free

https://www.amazon.com/GeeekPi-1024x600-Capacitive-Display-Raspberry/dp/B074Z6FCFW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527688538&sr=8-6&keywords=7+Inch+Capacitive+Touch+Screen+Monitor

and another

https://www.amazon.com/Capacitive-Display-800x480-Raspberry-Various/dp/B01F3801A2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527688538&sr=8-2&keywords=7+Inch+Capacitive+Touch+Screen+Monitor

Does anyone know if any of these would work?
I don't want to order something just to find out it's not compatible for some reason.

I have this: https://www.amazon.ca/Satechi-Bluetooth-Button-Media-Compatible/dp/B00RM75NL0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539283799&sr=8-6&keywords=satechi+remote

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It controls the play/pause, skip forward, skip back functionality just fine. Volume up and down does not work as this remote is controlling the phones volume and not the raspberry pi. (Phones volume does nothing when in android auto mode)

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I will also add that the device goes to sleep after about 15mins of inactivity to save battery so it does take a couple seconds for it to wake up and re-establish a Bluetooth connection with my phone before i can pause audio.

I am using the Smartipi case which comes with the Y adapter. https://www.amazon.com/Case-Official-Raspberry-Touchscreen-Display/dp/B01HV97F64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521139404&sr=8-1&keywords=smartipi

Boot up is 10 seconds max. Works great.

You won't be able to use the hdmi for the backup camera. You will need a ribbon cable extension thingy like this: HDMI Extension for Pi Ribbon Cable

Just wanted to give you a heads up on this.

I have the official case from Raspberry Pi and its pretty good. It doesnt come with a way of mounting so I am currently working on mounting in my car but it won't benefit anyone else unless you have a 08' Hyundai Elantra...

There is the SmartPi Touch case that has two different kinds of mounting feet that might work for most people

Official: https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-7-Inch-Touch-Screen/dp/B01GQFUWIC

SmartPi Touch: https://www.amazon.com/Case-Official-Raspberry-Touchscreen-Display/dp/B01HV97F64/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VFWHH7QV2N9FSQ96NS6V

The official Pi camera module with a waterproof housing and these extenders over HDMI work well:

https://www.amazon.com/Arducam-Extension-Module-Raspberry-Specific/dp/B06XDNBM63

I just ordered a list of parts.

-rpi cam

-25' hdmi cable

-set of hdmi adaptors
The original: https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/pi-camera-hdmi-cable-extension

Alternative:
https://www.amazon.com/Arducam-Extension-Module-Raspberry-Specific/dp/B06XDNBM63

It's going in a topless 86 4runner, so I'll be drilling a small hole in the tailgate and mounting INSIDE the tailgate assembly by removing the access panel on the bed side of the tailgate. Then, I'm going to run the hdmi through the harness ports, down the side- interior of the body with the rest of the harnesses. I'll trigger it via gpio that is activated by a relay that is triggered by the reverse switch wire.

As for waterproofing the camera, I'll be mounting the camera/adaptor in a floss container and sealing any water access points with hot glue(can be removed if needed). I'll be attaching the waterproofed apparatus to the drilled hole using something such as sugru (which I love), but any waterproof expoxy or rtv will work.