(Part 2) Best products from r/crtgaming

My post from 1 month ago:

>So I picked from a post production cinema studio two BVM20G1E >monitors, that came with control units and power supply cables only.
>I'm a total newbie when it comes to connections and that kind of stuff but I tried to read up some guides.
>So the idea would be to use my old Alienware M14X R2, turned in a retrogaming emulation station, with this monitor. As I understand, this monitor can only accept a 15Hz signal, which is supported (I think) by my Intel integrated graphic card with Soft15Hz. I tried connecting the PC to the monitor with a VGA cable with no luck, I'm in need of BNC cables. I stumbled on a Fudoh's post stating that I would need an Arcade RGB card which is PCI and can't be installed on a laptop ofc. Also an Extron RGB unit (don't know which one) and maybe BNC cables.
>Equipment I currently own, that might help:
>VGA 15 pins to RGB 9 pins 5$ adapter
>This VGA to RCA Video converter (maybe the second VGA out can help with something?
>So, what would I need to make it work? Thanks
>I also have a N64 I'd love to hook up, if possible


So the problem here was the card. I was lucky enough to meet
/u/Elektrotechnik here who happened to have a spare PAL card. After installing that, the N64 was fine, with colours and all. Then today I tried hooking up the laptop with Soft15kHz installed and I get a 1024x768 resolution only because of the vga to composite switch I got. I tried using CRU with no luck. Any suggestion?
To recap the current cables:


Alienware M14XR2 -VGA-> This VGA to RCA Video converter -Composite Video + BNC adapter-> Sony BVM20G1E with BKM-25P Card (PAL only)

Thank you for the help so far, you guys are great. Hopefully I'll be able to share some scanlines too, soon :)

I assume you got the slot in card from the fellow on here who makes them? The one he sent me has audio outlets but I’m not sure if you have an absolutely identical one if you’re talking about needing scart to BNC. Mine just takes scart directly.

Yeah the monitor is mono and has garbage sound so if you’re using RGB through the card then getting shielded PC speakers and using something like this should be fine:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-connecting-smartphones-tablets-players-Green/dp/B00QUWDUMC/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1518009898&sr=8-7&keywords=3.5mm+rca+female

Speakers I got are these and they blow my old Bang and Olufsen TV speakers out the water:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B000WQIKJ0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522925224&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=shielded+pc+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BsWlzXwUL&ref=plSrch

I use this exact product and the sound is fantastic. I didn’t notice much till you mentioned it but the menu flickers uncontrollably regardless of settings I think. My image is very clear and totally stable but the menu is still all over the place. Might be a dead end trying to get it to stabilise.

Let me know if you really get to grips with this thing because there’s probably tons of stuff I haven’t messed with yet. Besides incredibly minor rolling on one part of the screen when scrolling everything looks perfect to me but there’s always more to optimise and I settled for good enough relatively quickly. What are you playing besides GameCube?

Anyway glad you’re happy with it and good shout on getting the RGB card right away. By the time I ordered one I was convinced the S-video image I was getting couldn’t be topped and I was horribly wrong. It’s a super clear image but doesn’t come close to the RGB which just oozes colour without any distortion. Enjoy the monitor.

Before touching WinDAS, read this:

Apparently, the P1110 does have a service menu, and it's possible to adjust the G2 without goofing around with WinDAS. This text document that I downloaded tells the story:

>I fixed this problem on my P1110 last night in 2 minutes with NO need for hardware modifications or expensive Sony software. This may not work for all P1110's, but it sure cured the "too bright" problem for me.

>- Turn off monitor.

>- Hold down the center front panel "set" button. While holding this button down, swich on monitor. Continue holding the "set" button for 4 seconds, release and immediately push again.

>- A password prompt will appear on screen. Enter "7711" using the monitor front panel set and arrow keys.

>- A service mode screen will come up.

>- Maneuver to the "Gray Scale" menu.

>- Set "Brightness" to 50% and "Contrast" to 90% (these are the same controls as the normal menu).

>- Adjust the "G2" setting down to the optimal brightness. This setting controls the feedback loop for all three R-G-B electron guns in the CRT. I set mine to a value of 125, but your optimal value may differ.

>- Turn monitor off and on to exit service mode.

>- Fine tune brightness and contrast with normal controls.

>-That's it!

If this procedure does work for you, great! But if it doesn't, a serial cable will not help you - instead, you'll need something called a USB-TTL cable to connect to the monitor so you can use WinDAS to fix the G2 being through the roof.

Just like with TV's, there are higher grades of computer monitors as well. Look for "graphics design" monitors. Some of these monitors will actually have BNC inputs as they are designed for industry use but do not be fooled, These monitors do NOT accept 15khz rgb ( aka 240p)

I have an "NEC MultiSync FP2141sb" which I love. It has dual inputs, full geometry controls, a "super bright" function I really enjoy and a built in usb hub that I use to power my component - vga adapter.

I belive this Sony FW900 is the holy grail of vga crt monitors.

edit: I grabbed a this Wii VGA cable and gutted the chip. I made my own little box with component inputs and VGA out. The chip they used is highly regarded and does a straight 1:1 conversion of component-VGA @ 480p and 720p.

https://www.amazon.ca/Hyperkin-813048010715-PS3-Wii-Cable/dp/B003YDJ0F6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486320180&sr=8-1&keywords=wii+vga+cable

There's a S-Video input right on the back of that monitor. One side plugs directly into your console, the other into the monitor itself - super simple:

PS1/PS2/PS3 (official Sony brand and excellent quality, FYI)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5JS5A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SNES:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LE3EAIK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For NES, you'll also want to get a pack of these BNC to RCA connectors to use a regular RCA Composite cable off your NES: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005B4O4GG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I should add that I forgot to mention that Sega Genesis needs to be modded for S-Video - if your friend can help you mod the monitor for RGB it'll be a breeze for him (it's soldering like 5 single wires and a couple resistors - pretty darn easy). ---OR at that point, if you are actually modding the monitor for RGB, you'll probably forget about the S-Video and just use a regular SCART RGB cable or whatnot.

Also, if it makes your choice easier, S-Video really is excellent quality. You really have to see both side-by-side to notice any difference compared to RGB (especially if you're still new to all this - it's really just the finer smaller differences you can notice between the two connection types).

On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JYW96Q2

I wanted the CRT effect but didn't really want to find a 100lb monstrosity sitting on my office desk (I already have the Trinitron for the consoles). It's not perfect and of course isn't the same as a real CRT, but it really looks pretty good for the $30 it cost, and best of all processes the entire image so I don't have to try to run filters for the games themselves. It really looks pretty solid, all things considered.

I played Blood Dragon itself on this guy and it's awful because the enemies are too small. Games designed for a low resolution, like DOOM, work great. Retro styled games, like Super Amazing Wagon adventure, Organ Trail, and Retro City Rampage, work great, as long as you turn off their built-in CRT effects. CRT-on-CRT action is not nearly as exciting as it sounds. Emulation, of course, works great. I used this Sewell VGA to Composite adapter, and I've noticed almost no input lag, at least compared to my big LCD monitor. Mostly I use this as my secondary monitor for playing youtube on. It works great for that.

I would not recommend heavy weight being set onto modern shelves. Search craigslist or facebook marketplace for a nice, strong CRT friendly stand. A nice sturdy desk or table would work also. You may even get lucky and find the official stand. if you search your TV's model number, and dig around, you can even find the model number of the official sony stand for it, and use that to aid your search. For the KV-32FV310 the official sony stand is Sony SU32F1 (link to picture: https://www.amazon.com/SONY-SU32F1-Audio-Video-Stand/dp/B0000AKMO4) There were also aftermarket stands made specifically for these sets. I hope this helps, God bless!

I'm in exactly the same position as you, the best thing I can advise is to search amazon or dept. store websites for "corner TV stands." They're still made with modern TV's in mind but they do tend to have a wider depth and support more weight. You could also look into a modestly sized coffee table. Here's a link to what I have my eye on: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074YYG5G6/?coliid=I17SUKDA5UA09N&colid=1Z3PM7ZKAFFQH&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I think ultimately, to get the ideal setup you'd probably have to build your own. I was hoping the Ikea Kallax had enough depth to support the PVM, but not only is it not, I don't think I'd trust it with the weight of the PVM regardless.

I have the 4850, and this is a great solution for people who don't want to mess around with transcoders. You will need a 7 pin to component adaptor for the best result. Problem is that these ports can only put out a digital signal, so the best resolution you're gonna get is 480i. It's a great compromise though, and a good place holder while you decide whether you want to try and send an analog signal to your tube.

Something like this should work fine:

https://www.amazon.com/Kyper-7-Pin-S-Video-Green-Component/dp/B00VF2SUIG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=7+pin+to+component+cable&qid=1564810833&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Have a couple nice consumer CRT TV sets, but decided to pick up a free CRT computer monitor today (MAG 771FS-s, had never heard of it) and try out 480p Melee if possible.
I already have component cables for my Wii, but would one of these work well with the monitor?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MayFlash-Ypbpr-to-RBGHV-VGA-Box-2-1-Video-Switch-Adapter-Converter-480-720-1080/153157808931?hash=item23a8eab323:g:NTQAAOSwY8BbhhqQ

https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Wii-PS3-VGA-Cable-PlayStation/dp/B01JOBW12K/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mayflash+vga&qid=1562737302&s=videogames&sr=1-3

I'm open to learning and to other suggestions - appreciate it!

The female RCA jacks on your scart breakout cable are carrying a low-level, non-amplified stereo signal from your console. You have a few options:

Powered computer speakers like the ProMedia speakers you are looking at: All you need is a male RCA to female 3.5mm cable like this. In my experiences computer speakers generally use very small magnets and often you can get them pretty close to your monitor without causing issues, even if they're not advertised as being shielded. Put up a solid color or a test pattern on the screen while positioning the speakers and watch for distortion or discoloration.

Passive bookshelf speakers: Use an amplifier to power them (either a home theater receiver or one of those smaller Class T amps like Lepai) and use a pair of male stereo RCA cables to connect your scart breakout to the amp inputs. Chances are good that you'll need to have these at least 6-12" away from your monitor if they're not shielded, and even if they are, I would test them anyway.You can do the same test I suggested above when positioning the speakers.

S-video is the way to go for me since it looks super crisp! I got some third party cables on amazon, and so far they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XKP7Q8P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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These are the sort of cables I was talking about it:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015MISAG

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YDJ0F6/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JOBW12K

Just direct from the console to the monitor, nothing between.

They aren't of the highest quality, but are dead simple and cheap.

A dedicated transcoder as described by /u/syboxez would be better solution, especially if you think you'll want to possibly use other 480p+ Component sources on the monitor, but if you're just looking to use the Wii on it, the cable -should- be good enough for your purposes.

Not capable of hitting quite as high of resolution as the Garo, but I can personally recommend the Key Digital transcoders as being quality: For your situation specifically, the KD-CTCA line, for Component to RGB:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/282489751132

http://www.ebay.com/itm/142394232769

I use my OSSC on my 21" apple studio monitor via hdmi to vga adapter here Rankie HDMI to VGA Adapter with 3.5mm Audio Port (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GLtPCbYP5B3QG

Works pretty great in line double mode. I can get x3 and x4 working but I feel x2 is best.

Heres a [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GYSFOM6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=tampfreepcpin-20&linkId=04dc9e0d8b201e73fcd0a87f113ab198) to the meter in question, and [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDABYKoVO4Q) is a review/demonstration from a popular YouTube TV repair channel.

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If you want something a little nicer, there is also [this one](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NIBEYU/?coliid=IBGOVNQDXLV6V&colid=35YG4HLU6VOCB&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) for $130, it has the ability to discharge capacitors as well which is nice, and something you should do to prevent damaging your meter.

There is a s video cable for the ps1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000N5JS5A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487642704&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ps3+s+video&dpPl=1&dpID=413hPW-NdeL&ref=plSrch heres a link to a good high quality one it fits the ps1 ps2 and ps3 and here is a good quality snes n64 and gamecube s video cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LE3EAIK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487642829&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=snes+s+video&dpPl=1&dpID=41r4XvjGatL&ref=plSrch hope this helps

#1 - your in for a world of hurt, see this link.

#2 - You mean like these here, link?

#3 - Yowza, what are you trying to do, link!

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New to all this myself, but had similar questions and been learning last 2 weeks..

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good luck

oNe

Awesome! Gonna go without then as it's cheaper. Looks like this should be just the ticket! https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00PVG8RGC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1_1_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1

Would something like the ASUS ROG SWIFT PG278QR 27" 2560x1440 1ms 165Hz with G-SYNC offer a better experience compared to a Sony W900?

Really ANYTHING will do, but if you want good sound quality, go to a goodwill and find a nice pair of old speakers and a subwoofer (they're probably better than any new ones anyway) and one of these:


https://www.amazon.com/WINGONEER-TPA3116-Amplifier-Subwoofer-Regulating/dp/B07K217XGW


It does require a 24v 3-5a power supply, but if you have any audio equipment with barrel jacks, you probably have one lying around (or an old laptop power supply). If I remember correctly, the TPA3116 CAN take 12v but at less performance.

Pretty hilarious.

The guy in the video was claiming higher refresh rates, when they weren't actually higher because he omitted the horizontal refresh rate of 121hz, and he fails to mention that this is at 700p, as opposed to the 165hz at 1440p of modern monitors. He talks about motion blur, but doesn't talk about perceptible motion blur where a brand new high end ASUS 4ms 1440p IPS panel'd 165hz monitor gets rid of. Like this one - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017EVR2VM/?tag=pcpapi-20

I doubt most people could ever see anything they would call motion blur on these aside from CRT enthusiasts looking for problems by doing tests that don't represent actual use-case scenarios.

Like I said at the beginning, for retro gaming there just is no substitute for a CRT, and I have two CRTs still, which I need to get setup in retro gaming setups both in my guest room and in my game room. Waiting on a good TV stand find from thrift stores and the RPi4 RetroPie solid release.

I've been using this HDMI to Component converter for around a year and have been pretty happy with it. It does a solid job of downscaling 1080p and 720p content from my streaming sticks (currently a 4K Fire Stick) to 480i on the Sony Trinitron I have in the bedroom.

However, preserving the proper aspect ratio could be a problem. The streaming stick outputs widescreen video and the converter preserves that aspect ratio but the old tube TV will stretch that image and fill the screen. Fortunately, my Trinitron has a setting in the menu called "16:9 Enhanced" and when enabled it will restore the image to its proper aspect ratio (i.e., a letterboxed, widescreen image rather than a stretched, distorted image). You'd just have to dig around in the menu to see if your TV has settings that support properly displaying a widescreen signal on a 4:3 display.

Even the cheapest ones like these?

https://www.amazon.it/Rankie-Adattatore-Displayport-1080P-Nero/dp/B00Z08TZNU/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1RQ76GIUVTC9S&keywords=displayport+vga&qid=1561993616&s=gateway&sprefix=displayport%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-3

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https://www.amazon.it/Rankie-Adattatore-1080P-Micro-Uscita/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=hdmi+vga&qid=1561993642&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Its hard to say. I don't even know what the program "regsvr32" is or does, really. All I know is that it allows your PC and WinDAS to use that missing ActiveX / msflxgrd.ocx file. And WinDAS NEEDS it.

When you are successful, you'll get this message:

http://www.piclist.com/images/com/geocities/www/gregua/windas/flxinstall.png

I am terrible with syntax and it usually takes me 5 or 6 attempts of "what was that command again? what switches? etc" to do things like this. That image is reminding me. You might want to try this command at the end of my last instructions if it didn't work.

I had said

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>Now you are in C:\Windows\System32\ and all of the msflxgrd.ocx files are copied, type this to register/install it.
>
>regsvr32 C:\WINDOWS\system32\msflxgrd.ocx

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try this instead

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>Now you are in C:\Windows\System32\ and all of the msflxgrd.ocx files are copied, type this to register/install it.
>
>C:\Windows\System32\regsvr32 C:\Windows\System32\msflxgrd.ocx

I am 90 days removed from the time I sat down and did this, but I'm am almost certain that this is what you are missing from the install process. WinDAS is an outdated tech relic for monitors built in 1999, but it works on a moden OS with its dependencies in place.

You know what the COM port is for matching USB port. You know that the 5V Power Lead is RED and the Ground is the BLACK lead. You've tried switching RX and TX leads because they connect to their opposites and not RX-to-RX and TX-to-TX. You've Read the labels on the monitors board, to know what pin is what.

You're so close. WinDAS is just a pain to install and the instructions are sketchy and it seems that no one curates a real fix for it.

When WinDAS is working, it will show no errors and will allow you to select your Model Number from a list (F2).

Good luck. I really don't have much more.

EDIT: Then again, who knows. Maybe you really do get what you paid for. But my $7 choice from an equally sketchy Amazon seller is questionable too.

https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1546722499&sr=1-7&keywords=PL2303

Maybe it is what you need. I can't say.

You could use a generic HDMI to YPbPr converter box, here's one with 1080i out scaling support https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Component-Converter-Adapter-Coaxial/dp/B01F6URXYY/ref=sr_1_7_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1536033483&sr=8-7&keywords=1080p+to+480i

Rankie HDMI to VGA Adapter with... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00ZMV7RL2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Get an s-video cable branded for PS3

PS3 S Video Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N5JS5A/

Only 10$

Would this TTL adapter work? https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+to+ttl&qid=1555471545&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I have an HDMI to component adapter which works fairly well for most content. It'll take most HD signals and allow you to scale down to 480i. However, it does not adjust the aspect ratio from 16:9 to 4:3. I don't believe the Switch supports setting a 4:3 aspect ratio. It will likely cut off the edges of the screen unless your TV has a 16:9 mode. My JVC D-Series does not have a 16:9 enhanced mode, but some Trinitrons do have this mode. The adapter I have is about $30 so it is little risk to give it a try. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F6URXYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i ordered the one you linked above, this one that a guy had reviewed and talked a bit about on his own blog for a similar reason, and then ordered a replacement for the one i have now just in case it's just a faulty adapter. here's hoping at least one works.

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thanks for all your help, btw. knowing the vernacular and all that had thrown me for a loop, but i think i at least understand the basics of my problem now.