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I just upgraded the lights on my kawasaki, so I got all this worked out.

• First, a reference for the bulbs your bike takes: https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle/2007-honda-vtx1300c-vehicle-led-lights?make=32&model=3563&year=2007
  
• Front turn signals- I wanted to use my front signals as running lights, so I got these white/amber 1157 bulbs (it says it fits the 7528 sockets on your bike) and clear lenses. These will be white lights, then when you turn on the turn signal the white on that side goes out and blinks amber: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JC7233R/.
  
• amber/amber 1157/7528 bulbs if you don't want white/amber: https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Newest-Bright-Projector-replacement/dp/B071FB824J
  
• clear/smoke turn signal lenses for your bike: optional, but I like the look: https://www.amazon.com/Krator-Signal-Lenses-Indicator-Blinkers/dp/B016N2H60A
  
• Main headlight: I actually kept this halogen because H4 LED headlight bulbs were too expensive and I couldn't mount them in my headlight bucket without modification. This one's more than bright enough for me, I'm really happy with it. I don't feel like I'm blinding oncoming traffic with this one but the lowbeam is brighter than my high beam used to be. But if you still want to, look for an H4 LED bulb, but I don't recommend it. I'd rather replace the bucket if I went that route. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CR3UW6
  
• Tail light bulb: red/red 1157 (says it fits 7528, your bike's size) LED bulb: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY4T4BU/
  
• Rear turn signals: amber 1156 (says it fits the 7506 socket) LED: I actually didn't use these, for a reason I'll explain below. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0739RCR3J/
  
• Turn Signal Relay: You may need this to fix a problem with the bulbs flashing really fast. The reason it does that is because it expects a certain power draw, but the LEDs draw less power, so it thinks a bulb is out. When that happens the turn signals flash really fast. This replacement relay is designed to fix that and the page says it aught to work on your bike. Installation on your bike should be easy: you have to find your stock turn signal relay, unplug it, and plug this one in. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO
  
• Some quick googling said the turn signal relay "Should be under the right side cover. The one in rubber with the plug in the "back" is the fuel relay the other one has a plug srait in the bottom, thats the one for the blinkers." I hope that makes sense when you get into the bike, check with VTX owner forums for more info.
  
• All 4 turn signals lighting at once- this is something that happened with my bike, again because the power draw was different the bike didn't want to differentiate between left and right turn signals so both sides would light up. I found out if you leave at least one regular bulb in the system, it would behave normally and switch between left and right. That's why I didn't use LED rear turn signals- I can live without those being LEDs. The alternative solution I read was soldiering some resistors into the turn signal indicator circuit, which is above my technical capabilities/confidence. It's your call if you want to go that route, I'm happy enough with my setup (I actually uploaded the demo videos on the amazon page for the relay and white/amber LEDs so you can see how it behaves.)
  
  For the fast/4-way flashing issues, I can't say if they will effect your bike. I have a feeling they will, and if they do you know how to address them. All in this upgrade runs about 90 bucks, minus 17 if you decide to stick with halogen rear turn signals.
  
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  Good lord that's a long post

Sounds like you’re doing everything right, I have not hesitated to use a higher concentration of seafoam but it feels like a rebuild is in your future.

Rebuilding the Carbs isn’t difficult and YouTube is full of exact videos on how to do this probably for your exact bike too.

Having a nice, clean well lit work surface is important, Spread out a light colored towel to keep small pieces from rolling, disassemble and lay the parts out exactly as you take them apart, do them one at a time so you still have another carb for reference on how it goes back together. Wear nitrile gloves, good dexterity and saves you hands.

Examine the numbers on your jets so you can get a kit with the same exact parts in it, we don’t know if anything was changed in the past.

Use a good carb cleaner and a stiff toothbrush, not a wire brush. Put your float in a container with gas to be sure they float, take a pic and compare to how the other float floats, pretty important. In fact, taking many pictures along the way is highly recommended.

With two carbs, you may be able to sync them without tools, but a dual vacuum meter setup is the way to go, here’s one.

AlphaMoto Vacuum Carburetor Synchronizer Carb Sync Gauge 2 Cylinder Bike Cb Cl 350 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MSJ7C8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aFG0AbHHTVZK2

OK, here goes nuttin'.
First of all, some back story. I live in the Philly, PA area and was planning my first long distance trip with my wife to take back roads up to Niagara Falls, then come straight back down into western PA and take the long way (PA Route 6) back. I wanted to make sure that I had a way to charge MP3 players, phones, and power a GPS since most of the trip we'd be on the bike.
I bought THIS USB and 12v power outlet for the handlebars, along with THIS phone case this is supposed to be waterproof. I've ridden with it in some nasty weather, and it was dry enough that my electronics didn't get damaged. Lastly, I mounted THIS dual USB outlet in the right-hand saddle bag. The double sided tape seemed like a good idea, but what came with it wasn't great and really didn't stick to the bag, even though I cleaned everything with alcohol and let it dry before applying. I'd get some good double sided tape and do it over if I still had the bike.
Now, I chose to run the wires for both units to the battery. You may choose elsewhere, it doesn't matter. While I never actually removed the tank, I did remove the 2 bolts by the seat so I could lift the back end and slide the wires under the bracket. Just make sure you don't pinch anyting when you bolt everything back down.
Once all the wires were loosely run, I neeed to power everything. I wanted it all tied directly to the battery, but I wanted the power switched so that it didn't drain the battery if I accidently left something plugged in and forgot about it. I used THIS RELAY UNIT to power everything. Note that this relay package come with the relay, switch, and a ton of wire. You could cut the swtich out of the circuit if you don't want it. I just mounted it in the saddle bag with the USB outlet.
The wiring does take a bit of skill, which really means the right tools and and a little knowledge on how to use them. The first thing I did was find a wire for the relay to trigger. I wanted the relay to power everything only when the key was on. I don't remember exactly how I found it, I think I took the tail light assembly apart and looked at the wire color. I do remember that the wire I wanted was bundled in electrical tape and/or conduit wrap. I know when I removed the tape, I found that the wire was spliced from the factory. This was perfect for me because it meant I didn't have to cut away any more shielding from the wire. I used a volt meter to verify that the wire was only powered when the key was on and then soldered the switch wire from the relay to it. THIS diagram might help with the wiring.
The rest of the wiring was just bringing the positive leads over to the relay and finding a good ground for all of the negative leads. I do remember using the battery negative terminal for all of the negative connections. I just brought all of the wires together and crimped them all in an ring terminal.
I also used a soldering iron and solder on all of my wire connections, and put heat shrink over the connections and then electrical tape. I wrapped all of the wires going to the saddle bag in electrical tape and wire lume so that they would blend in with the frame better and protect the wires better. Also, the USB connection in the saddle back snaps into a bracket that is included with the connector. This means that when you want to remove the saddle bag for cleaning or maintenance, you just unclip the USB connection and remove the bag. I hope all of the helps. Let me know if something isn't clear and I'll try to explain it better.

Here is a list of gear I have tested personally.

HELMET: Yema Modular I bought this as a back up helmet in case a passenger wanted to ride or my main helmet needed washing or replacement. Turned out the quality is amazing for the price and noise levels aren't too bad.


GLOVES: ILM Blackjacks badass pair of gloves that offer good protection for damn good price.


JACKET: Xelement
I look good in it and it is warm and cool year round.

not sure if i can post an ad link here, but since there's no referral code, i'm hoping it will pass muster...

this is the one i ordered: http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-handlebar-Sportster-Hayabusa-Boulevard/dp/B00CK5RNSU . looks like they sent something slightly different, though (what i received doesn't have the "klt-lite" text, and i like having no logo on it). it was a quick two-minute install, with most of that time trying to figure out the best placement and balance between things. they also include a 1/8" thick silicone pad for 7/8" handlebars, and an allen key to help with installation.

Let me suggest these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N24GIKM

Went down a couple weekends ago and these were the least damaged out of everything, just a bit scuffed up. Feet and ankles and calves were 100% okay thanks to these, and they still look good to go. Super comfortable for big boots too, flexible in the right way but definitely heavy protection.

I felt silly wearing these every time I ride but in the end I'm so glad I did.

This is what I have. Mine has orange and white pin stripes. Granted I bought mine on a winning bid of $53 from the company. It looks cool, and I get quite a few compliments on it, but this helmet is literally just a BILT Apollo that another company bought in bulk, and put a cool paint job on it. Not kidding. I confirmed this by a couple different cycle shops. Granted this means you can easily get accessories for it.

http://www.amazon.com/PGR-PINSTRIPE-Modular-APPROVED-Motorcycle/dp/B00B1JZUMM

FYI, I saw your comments on that imgur post, this would make a pretty sweet xmas present (if you celebrate xmas) https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Eliminator-Integrated-Taillight-Bracket/dp/B07G2N7WPK

Yes I like the more compact looking, is very attractive and functional.

I bought the brackets from Amazon (HTT Group Black 1" 25mm Motorcycle HandleBar 10mm Mirror Thread Mount Holder Clamp Adaptor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HHRV28C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cUaSAbA2CEB6C)

and I had to buy the adapter for the thread, RH to LH as one of the mirror has inverted thread. I bought the adapter at www.mikesxs.net, I bought 2 so that the final length will match, look for part# 16-4662 and 16-4660.

Or you can buy a new set of mirrors on Amazon without the need of adapters, just make sure you match the thread size on the brackets and the mirrors...

These look promising. J

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