Best products from r/cycling

So /r/bikewrench and /r/bicycling are much more active sub-reddits that you may see more attention on, but I can try to help you out here.

Switching the bars could require a few things:


Stem Size and by extension handlebar size: the Escape has a stem made for 31.8mm diameter handlebars with pretty large bars actually. Most drop bars you find will be 25.4mm at the stem and 23.8mm everywhere else. Any discrepancy can be an easy fix with some shims (either bought or made). It is also possible (according to Sheldon Brown) that your current bars may have very similar sizing to standard drop bars. The stem may also need to be shortened or lengthened to comfortably accommodate for the new handlebars and riding positions.


Braking: As you may or may not have noticed most drop bars come with brake levers that allow you to access the levers while riding on the drops. This is important because it allows you more leverage at the moments when you are going the fastest. Check out this image stolen from 'Lovley Bike' that shows the typical 'breaking on the drops' position.

While it is not necessary to have these brakes and the 'hoods' that accompany them it is an excellent idea and gives more hand positions! Alternatively it is possible to use levers only on the flats of the drop bars (but not the ones you currently have may need the aforementioned shims).

Shifting!
I see the Escape has Shimano M310 trigger shifters. Those also may have to go. They, like the brakes, can be mounted on the flats of the bar but it is only very low end bikes that do this to their riders. There are an ungodly number of ways to incorporate shifting on a bike with drop bars. You can integrate them into the brakes with STI's, stick them on the end of the bars with Bar End Shifters, Get them onto the stem like many vintage bikes Stem Shifters or get them on the down-tube for a classic look Down Tube Shifters...

That aside the only real options up there that you have for a conversion are Bar-end or "Brifters" Brake/Shifters...reusing your old ones could work but it would be inelegant.

Geometry MOST IMPORTANTLY! Your bike was designed to be ridden upright, the stem, top tube, every inch of the bike assumes the rider is using flat bars. There is no telling really what the ride will 'feel' like after you start riding on the hoods/drops. Its not as bad as most hybrids with front suspension but I could not tell you anything about how it might feel once the swap is made.


For moving forward I see a few options

Option 1 Quick and Dirty Get some drop bars and some old cans. Strip your current bars of components and install the drops(don't forget shims), If sheldon is correct about the size of over-sized road bikes all your old components should slide onto the flat part of the drops and just fit. It would be a unique way to ride but mostly functional...Personally I would have concerns about how safe it would be.

Option 2 More hand positions!
If what you want is more hand positions don't overlook bar end attachments:
Bar end attachments
Orgin 8 might actually have the answer to your prayers: Bolt On Drops

Option 3 Dress her like a roadie
Trying to make your hybrid into a road bike is usually not the right way to go but...with $10-30 for bars, and $100 for Shifters and Brakes, plus $10-20 for complete re-cabling across the bike (MTB and Road bikes use different cable ends) and of course labor if you aren't that handy. Tack on $10 for bar-tape to make her pretty and comfortable and you aren't that far in the hole.
You don't get off any easier for Bar Ends once you get the appropriate brakes its about the same. All that and your former hybrid could pass any scrutinizing test of a lycra-clad cyclist, you'd have yourself a certified road-bike. No promises on comfort!


This is just a vague indication though! For a real in-depth price assessment and Q&A please visit your local bike store

For my $00.02...Don't bother trying to convert them. Ride the bike you have the way it was intended to be ridden. If after a while you still feel like its lacking, throw on some bar ends for more hand positions, Still feel like its lacking? Go test-ride some road bikes to see if riding on the drops is right for you. I'm not talking about a test ride around the parking lot either! No less then 3 miles on that sucker, get a real feel for it. Love it!? Sell the Escape and do a TON of research into inexpensive road bikes. They are out there waiting for ya.

Posting pictures of the bike would be helpful. If you decide to do this, make sure to post a few high quality shots of your drivetrain which could show us if there's any critical wear.

However, before you post the pictures, it would be helpful to clean the bike. Get a bucket of soapy water, find a sponge or rag that you don't mind sacrificing and get to cleaning your mountain bike. Dry it off, and then post the pictures (that will make any critical deficiencies more obvious).

As others have mentioned, you'll most likely need to remove the chain. Here's a video from one of the best cycling channels on Youtube, Global Cycling Network (GCN), that shows you exactly how to do that. GCN and its sister channel, Global Mountain Bike Network (GMBN) offer a number of fantastic maintenance videos in addition to a variety of other content. If you're wondering where to get a chain tool, I would just spend a bit of extra money and get a good multi tool like the Crank Brothers multi tool which already comes with one.

Pump up the tires to see if they still hold air. If they do, fantastic. Nothing more needs to be done. If not, you'll need to get new tubes (most likely your mountain bike will need 26 in X 1.9-2.125 in tubes). Here's how to install a new tube.


As a bike commuter, you'll need a number of things to stay safe and make sure your bike stays in your hands. Here are the essentials:

1. Front and rear lights. I use this flashlight for my front light, and a rear light similar to this.
   
   
2. A helmet. From your posting history, you seem to live in Australia. All helmets sold in that country are required to meet the same safety standards so in all likelihood, spending more on a helmet will not make you safer. Buy one in a store and you're set.
   
   
3. A great bike lock. Read this to learn the proper way to lock your bike.
   
   However, staying safe is only the first part. You'll want or need a number of other items to make sure that your commute isn't frustrating. Here are some of the items off of the top of my head.
   
   
4. Bike pump. If you're going to mostly ride near gas stations which have air pumps that can inflate a tube, you probably don't need to carry around a mini pump on your rides. However, everyone should own a floor pump.
   
   
5. Degreaser. The cheap automotive kind is fine as is WD 40. This is used when you need to clean the drivetrain.
   
   
6. Bike lube. Stick with a bike specific one.
   
   
7. Disposable poncho. When I lived in an area where it often rained, I always had a dollar store disposable poncho in my backpack. It's just super handy if there's an unexpected downpour.
   
   
8. Fenders. I personally don't have them, but I live in a relatively dry climate. If you live in a place where it always rains, they're super helpful.
   
   
9. Bottle cage. A cheap plastic one is fine.
   
   
10. Tire levers.
    
    
11. Rear rack. Assuming you don't have a full suspension mountain bike and instead have a hard tail (here's an article if you're unsure), get a rear rack. Do not get one that is only mounted to the seat post like this Ibera, but rather one that connects to the bike frame. If your bike does not have any bolts that can attach, you can use P clamps to secure the rack. This post describes how to do just that.
    
    
12. Some way to transport groceries. While I use a milk crate that I ziptied onto my rear rack with bungee cords on top of the crate (similar to this setup), many others use panniers to transport groceries and other goods. This has the benefit of more storage, better center of gravity, and can be water proof. However, they are usually much more expensive unless you go the DIY route.
    
    
13. Bike bell. Cars won't be able to hear you, but if you ride in areas with lots of pedestrians or other cyclists, it's useful.
    
    
14. Spare tube. Fortunately 26 in tubes are cheap and super easy to find. Any department store with a bike section will carry them.
    
    /r/bikecommuting can be a helpful resource if you have other questions.

Well, you should certainly have a mirror, yeah. Maybe not a disco ball, but at least one. I like THIS ONE the best. Heck, put one on each bar end if you're feeling nutty.

Use flashing lights even during the daytime. You'd be surprised how well they can increase your visibility in broad daylight. For the rear, the Cygolite Hotshot seems to be the brightest from the research I've done. Not sure about the best front one. I got a CREE 1800 lumen on ebay (brand new) for like $40. They sell 'em cheap outta China. Serfas makes a good one too - the thunderbolt I think? Battery doesn't last too long, though. If you wanna be OTT about it, get 2 front & 2 rear - have one steady and one flash in each direction. Then, of course, wear bright clothing & all that. You can find reflective vests for cycling pretty cheap.

My dad used to commute 18 miles each way to work and used a side flag like THIS ONE all the time. It definitely makes folks give you a little extra room. Oh yeah, get a bell. Seriously. They make small ones if you're too embarrassed by a big one, but they don't have the "classic" bell sound. Nothing says "bike" like that ole' "ring-ring" and you want folks to know what you are before they even see you.

With some of this equipment on, my wife calls me the safety patrol leader. She still worries, but she knows I'm adamant about safety, am always on the defensive and, because of this gear and my practices, am less likely to get hit than if I wore all black and thought I owned the road.

Well, other than those pointers, just always be militant about safety, stop at all red lights & stop signs, signal for turns and try to ride in groups.

Like /u/jrm2191 said, Park Tool make some... comprehensive tool sets. Those prices are enough to make me choke, though. Your son's riding a ~$400 bike - I don't know how I would wrap my head around buying an $800 tool set, or even a $300 one.

But the tool sets are a good way to think about what tools you should buy. I'd get a basic tool set, fill in gaps, and upgrade selectively. What I'd do, in no particular order, would look like...

• cheap tool set ($40) (total $40)
  
• torque wrench ($50) (total $90)
  
• chain cleaning tool ($10) (total $100)
  
• cable cutting tool ($35) (total $135)
  
• maybe chain pliers? ($10) (total $145)
  
  At this point I would start thinking about upgrading the tools that your son will use all the time. The thing that stands out for me is hex tools. He might use Torx screws, but he'll definitely use metric hex tools
  
  
• some nice metric hex tools ($15) (total $160)
  
• some torx equivalents ($11) (total $171)
  
  Then probably nice meaty tire levers to make replacing tires and tubes easier
  
  
• tire levers ($9) (total $180)
  
  If you were looking to spend $300 or that range, then you'll notice you're way under that target. Feel free to start adding on some random nice things, like a portable multi-tool, which will pay off if he has an issue while out on a ride.
  
  
• Portable multi-tool ($25) (total $210)
  
  I'm running out of things that aren't "consumable" (like brake cables, housing, etc...), so for my last recommendation, nitrile work gloves! (they'll make cleanup a breeze)
  
  
• work gloves ($20) (total $230)
  
  There are tons of other things you could get (a bike stand, for instance) but at this point I'm getting a bit out of control. and there are tools I assume you have (e.g. a good screwdriver), but at some point I need to stop.
  
  And obviously feel free to mix and match whatever components you can afford/feel comfortable spending that much money on. One thing that might help would be to talk with him about what kind of work he does on his bike. He might be in desperate need of hex tools, but not treating himself to nice hex wrenches. That could be your quick, easy, cheap answer. Or similarly he might be nervously tightening bolts without a torque wrench, even in places that call for very precise amounts of torque. Again, easy answer regarding what to prioritize.
  
  Best of luck
  
  edit: totals didn't add up right, sorry!

*This is from a layman's perspective on exercise science and physiology as it relates to amateur cycling training

I'd rank ways to measure the training load of intervals like this from least to most helpful:

4. Distance at RPE or Speed
3. Time at RPE or Speed
2. Time at HR

1. Time at a specific Power Rating
   
   My understanding is that Time and Intensity are what matter for training for specific physiological adaptations, so the more accurately you measure those two factors, the better quality your training will be. Distance tells you nothing about time it takes to complete a specific interval. It's related to time in that at a given speed on unvarying terrain different distances will take different times to complete, but we can't control for those variables on the road. On a track or a very flat course with no wind....maybe.
   
   Speed tells you very little about intensity because of the same factors as well as your level of rest and recovery.
   
   Rate of Perceived Exertion (how hard am I working on a scale of 1-5 or 10 or whatever) can be a really good training cue for yourself, but until you have something more objective to measure it against (heart rate or power) it doesn't necessarily tell you much.
   
   Heart rate is influenced by a number of factors outside of the intensity of a specific workout, including rest, hydration, health, recovery, etc. It does, however, control for a lot of environmental variances (gradient, wind, etc.)
   
   Power is probably the most accurate way to measure intensity, and when coupled with heart rate and RPE you can draw some pretty profound conclusions about physiological responses from your body.
   
   I train with heart rate since I'm too much of a peasant to own a power meter. Typically I try to do my intervals at different heart rate levels based on what I'm attempting to train (muscular endurance, power, etc.) and try to return to a baseline heart rate within a designated resting interval. If I can't recover in time, typically it means I'm not rested enough for the workout or I haven't done enough base training and I change my plans for the day or the week.
   
   I'd recommend the Cyclist's Training Bible by Joe Friel
   https://www.amazon.com/Cyclists-Training-Bible-Joe-Friel/dp/1934030201
   
   It certainly helped me.

Thanks for playing along.

> Busch and Muller Ixon IQ Premium

Good This might be one of the most amazing light out there. Unlike many other lights they recognize that "good" isn't just pumping out tons of lumens. They put the light where it needs to go, on the road and not where it shouldn't be - in drivers eyes and in the trees. Them and Light and Motion have the best optics I've seen. There's a few tunnel beam test out there which show beam patterns well.

This review sold me on the light

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwM7vDvvGhU

They cover the beams at the end.

Now the thing is in this vid he's shooting pitch black, which all lights look bright in. Either way the flood is great.

Bad The high run time is listed at 3hrs (standard pretty much..) which is just long enough or a little too short depending on you. I wish more lights ran 4hrs on high as I take long rides with breaks in the middle. Itd be nice to not worry.

It doesn't have any side cut outs for visibility which do seem to help, even on very low powered lights.

Ugly

The main downfall for this light is its price, which I think is over $100. For some people $100 for one light isn't great. Some people might prefer to spend $100 on a different lighting setup (albeit likely with worse optics).


>Cygolite Hotshot



good

Crazy popular and a pretty neat light. I like the strong strobes and customizable flash settings for traffic

bright, unique flash patterns, affordable, good company.

bad

My big beef is it lacks a gentle pulse like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UthVrhsbRr4

for group/night trail rides i dont want to blind people. also id love to run a pulse/flasher combo.

PDW (I think) makes a light that combines a crazy flash pattern with a gentle strobe, that might be king...

ugly

lots of complaints about the mount, going back to at lease 2012. last thing i want is to lose a light on a ride w/o knowing.

"This light is great for visibility and can be seen from far away. MAJOR DRAWBACK - the light is mounted to the bike with a very flimsy mount. every time i go over a bump the light is jostled and ends up pointing straight down at the ground which of course defeats the purpose."

http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/product-reviews/B005DVA57Y/ref=cm_cr_pr_top_recent?ie=UTF8&filterBy=addThreeStar&showViewpoints=0&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

You are going to need to increase your power (FTP) and introduce long intervals into your training. I"m talking about specific rides where your only goal is something like 3x20 minute intervals at 85-90% of your max power or heart rate. These are rides done by yourself, alone, and in some degree of pain towards the end of the session.

There's plenty of information on the internet on increasing your FTP, but essentially you want a decent (20 minute) warm up followed by 3 x 20 minute intervals at 85-90% of your max power or HR with 5 minutes of rest (riding super slow). You can start at 10 minute intervals first if you like. This has always worked very well for me in the past and I'm old school before Power Meters so it does work using HR, but most modern training is now done with power meters. It will still work with a heart rate monitor, but you need to know a few things about your heart rate zones, max hr, etc.

A good book that will probably get mentioned here is "The Cyclist's Training Bible" and it is highly recommended. Good luck, getting faster is hard work, but the rewards are worth it.

Yeah, I am using an S5 as a dedicated bike computer for years now - following chats, listening to music, recording rides via Strava, navigation via OsmAnd app and even using the same phone to control a drone, though I haven't tried that during a ride yet, lol.

> I've got an ancient S4 laying around

The issue with S4 is that it is NOT water/dust resistant. If you don't care and only going to be riding fair-weather, then sure - why not. It's right there, after all. I wouldn't, but I'm sure it would be fine if you are careful.

> But the S5 should be good against rain right?

Yep. I am riding all-weather, which includes storms, blizzards and everything in between. The phone holds up fine, though I don't use it on handlebars when it gets to -10C and below.

> So if I don't touch the screen but still have data on it. Or would the rain cause all kinds of ghost presses then?

Yeah, ghost inputs everywhere. You gotta keep the screen off in rain, unless you figure out a way to turn the digitizer off while leaving the display on. There's probably an app for that, especially for an S5. It's probably the most popular phone in regards to custom stuff developed for it.

Another way would be to cover the screen in one way or another, so it is not in contact with conductive water. I don't, so can't advice on best options there.

> Anyway, thanks again! I will most likely go this route since it's much cheaper and it's so much more versatile for navigation.

Indeed. It's basically a full-fledged computer with what it can do. Hell, I've even live-streamed my rides on occasion, while on VoIP with friends. See which dedicated bike "computer" can do that, ha!

I recommend this phone holder. Serves me well - got two for separate bikes at this point. My review is here. The second one I got is a bit more loose than I'd like (hard bumps shift the phone angle sometimes), but it hasn't been happening annoyingly often thus far, so I'd still say it's a great product, especially for the price.


And you're welcome! Always happy to talk about stuff like that.

_____

WARNING using a phone on the handlebars is going to damage its camera's focusing mechanism over time. Do not attach a phone you care about on your handlebars.

I have two light kits on my two bikes, and I really like both of them.

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-Hotshot-Light-Combo/dp/B01IO12Q4O/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1536965325&sr=8-7&keywords=cygolite+metro

You can also find that with just the headlight, but I like that both of them are easily rechargeable via micro USB. Both lights are super bright, and I’ve ran them for close to two hours with no issues with the batteries.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG7677G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This second setup, I like best. The headlight and the battery pack are separate, and the taillight uses two watch batteries. The watch batteries seem to last about 30 hours of use.

Both of the kits I use are super easy to install, and both of them allow you to very easily unmount when you don’t need them. Both kits also provide powerful light facing forward in a long broad arc.

If you're looking to get the HR monitor as well, you're actually better off buying the watch and monitor separately. On Amazon (and most retailers I've seen) the combo is around $240-250, but you can get the watch itself for around $180. Amazon has great deals on the HR monitor (you can usually find one for around $35-40, far less than retail), so you could easily save $20-30 by buying them separately. Just a heads up!

While I'm at it, I've had the Vivoactive since launch and have very few complaints. While it's not a full-fledged cycling computer, it does the basics quite well. It also easily syncs up to HR monitors and speed/cadence sensors if you want to get a little more in-depth. The fitness tracker aspect, as well as some helpful widgets are just an added bonus. If your a beginner-intermediate rider and aren't overly concerned with some of the more cycling computer-specific features, I think you'll be more than happy with the features it provides.

Edit: Garmin also sells a handlebar mount for around $10-15 if you don't want to have to look at your wrist while riding.

Here's what I wrote in another thread:

I ride with two Drift Stealth 2s and they're great - you can get them for about $85-100 apiece. They have 3-hour-ish battery life and on a 32 gig card can hold three days of my 20-mile-a-day commutes (they also have dashcam-like rollover so that you never have to worry about full memory, if you prefer that). They do 720p at 60fps or 1080p at 30fps, and while their picture isn't the equivalent of a GoPro, it's plenty good for legal purposes.

I highly recommend a helmet mount (vs. a bar mount) for your front-facing camera. You're much more likely to capture whatever shit's going on that way; a bar mount has a smoother picture but will miss anything happening to the side of your bicycle. One of the nice features of the Stealth 2 is that the camera lens rotates, so if you have to mount on your helmet at a funny angle you can turn the lens to compensate and still have a horizontal video.

For the rear mount, I used the sawed-off center beam of a seatpost-mounted back rack. There are cheaper seatpost-mounted back racks, but this particular model has a flat top, which makes it work well with the adhesive mount. I cut off everything but three-four inches from the beam, slapped the adhesive mount that comes with the Stealth 2 on there, and it's been going great even through weather for several months now.

If you have to choose between front and back for now, I'd definitely recommend investing in the front first.

Here's what they look like in daylight.

Here's what they look like during urban nighttime.

Here's what it looks like in rain.

Edit: It's notable that because the Stealth 2 uses a slide-in-slide-out mounting system, your mount-to-camera connection will loosen slightly over time from the friction of mounting and unmounting, which will cause vibration in the video after a while. I found that you can shim the inside of the mount with a strip of electrical tape, which tightens everything up nicely.

For the pedals you currently have, it's going to be hard to find cleats, as these are rather old.

If you replace your pedals, you can even use mtb pedals (spd cleats) and mtb shoes. These are usually easier to walk on, but have the disadvantage of being less efficient for pedaling, but only slightly. If you go with proper road pedals, you're probably looking at 3-bolt patterned cleats, so your shoes should accept 3-bolt cleats. Of course, there's also 2-bolt patterned cleats for road bikes, like eggbeaters and spd (non-sl). And yes, you can get shoes that accept both type of cleats. The good news is that pedals usually come with cleats, if you're getting shoes at the same time, make sure they're compatible.


As for the bonus, check your tires, bar tape, maybe even the saddle. Definitely get your drivetrain checked, but that would have come back as recommended upgrades from your LBS.

I like these ones from Amazon if you are going to go this route:
Bright Eyes

Basically the same LED and similar housing, but better QC, and much better attention to detail.

Everything from the packaging, to the waterproofing of the housing, to the included accessories, are worlds better than a similar cheap Chinese one I bought off I ebay. Plus, I feel much more confident with the battery. Some of those Chinese versions have had reports of the batteries catching fire while charging.

Also, it's Prime so you don't need to wait for it to ship from China, you can return it without hassle if you don't like it, it comes with a FREE tail light that is really nice, and it just has the overall appearance of a product that somebody actually cares about.

Any multi tool from CRANKBROTHERS or Topeak will be good. For the love of GOD don't buy a cheap multi tool for your friend. Cheap tools are made poorly with low quality metals that will end up stripping your friends components. I don't care how well that POS WOTOW tool is reviewed, the positive reviews never used it. The WOTOW tool stripped more than one of my bolts before I bought an Alien II. Your friend will want to buy some high quality tools for his home use later though. $15 would only buy a few quality home tools.

​

If your friend uses tubes you could get a REMA patch kit for him. If your friend is tubeless you could get him a plug kit. I've never had a tubeless tire so I've no idea what plug kits are good/bad.

​

The important thing is to spend a lot of time training at a moderate heart rate... basically an intensity you can maintain for over an hour that is difficult but not actually painful. Lots and lots of hours riding at roughly that level (and harder) will improve your aerobic fitness which is the most important factor.

If you want to be more serious about it buy a copy of The Cyclist's Training Bible and put together a long-term training plan based on that.

Also for a climb like Ventoux make sure you've got some easy gears on your bike. A compact crank (or triple) will make it a lot easier.

Tools. Most people don't have proper bike tools, so that would be a great surprise. You can either get a decent multi-tool (get one with a chain-breaker and tire wrenches) or a variety of Park Tools. Here are some Park Tools that I find invaluable: 3-way hex, chain cleaning tools, pedal wrench, and/or a chain whip

This bar tape is amazing 3mm Fizik performance. Tape should be replaced semi-regularly, but most people don't, so it would be a great surprise gift. Black looks good on almost every bike.

It's always suggested to get a new helmet. You don't know if it's been involved in a slight crash or had anything happen to it that would compromise its safety.

What kind of lights did you get??

I'd like to think I have some properly good lights and I've only spent ~$70 on them

Here's what I have: 2Watt Cygolite hotshot tail light ~$30 and another Cygolite headlight that can do short 600lm flashes, but has a few modes around 500lm or so, $50, but this is what I ordered last month for a friend who recently got into cycling, same 2W tail light & another headlight that's just a bump below the 550 I linked above for $60

Unless you've got some whopping mountain trail lights, I feel like $130 is a bit high, I'm all for supporting LBSs, but sometimes they get silly.

Anyways, stay safe & nice fucking deal on the bike.

I recommend checking out /r/bikecommuting. Although it sounds like you have already been commuting by bike, so I apologize if you already know what I'm saying. I'm assuming because you are asking about what you wear for winter cycling that you do not regularly commute in winter/have a short commute.

You will need to get lights for commuting, especially as winter approaches (assuming that you are in the Northern hemisphere). I have the Cygolite Expillion 350 and the PDW Danger Zone. I once read that a blinking rear light is good for being noticed but a solid light is good for driver depth perception, so my helmet has a red light in back that I keep solid in the evening/night. I will eventually get a second real rear light.

As for clothing - what is your climate going to look like this winter? I was commuting in upstate New York and wore generic winter running tights, wool socks, UA coldgear shirt, a down vest, gloves, and a thin scarf that went around my neck and over my head under my helmet. When I wore thick wool mittens over my gloves, I was toasty in that down to 14 F. I never got goggles/glasses, but they would have been nice when it sleeted.

I don't have any cycling specific wear. I re-purpose what I already have or buy things that will work for multiple activities.

I wash my bike (or at least rinse it off) after any ride where salt from the road was kicked up. Last winter I had a toothbrush and would gently scrub my derailleurs to get off the ice and would use a damp rag to wipe it down. Again, I was biking in upstate New York. I have since moved south and don't yet know what this winter will mean for biking. I'm assuming a lot less ice and a lot less salt.

You may want to check out The Art and Science of Low Carbohydrate Performance. http://amzn.com/0983490716

The general premise is, after several weeks on a very low carbohydrate diet, you body adapts to use fat as the primary fuel. Fat utilization increases. That is, you can burn fat a much higher rates than you can on a typical diet. Glycogen is preserved and you don't bonk. As intensity increases, you start burning more glycogen for energy, but you're still burning fat at rates that just can't be achieved on a standard diet.

> I'm not trying to go fast. I just want endurance, power and overall performance. You know, besides dropping some body fat.

It's well suited for this.
V02max will decrease slightly. That's your maximal effort. How much you can do in an all-out sprint. However, because fat mass decreases, your VO2max/kg and watts/kg actually increase. Since bike racing often involves a sprint to the finish, racers are after VO2max, so this hasn't caught on.
In events without a sprint to the finish; triathlon, ultra-endurance races, longer time trials, it's gaining in popularity.
I find it ideal for a recreational rider.

Honestly, I'd say start riding, and the knowledge of common damage/ repairs will come through experience. This will also help on the customer service side of things because you will be able to relate to the customers. Sure, the LBS can train you on some more niche skills (such as installing a bottom bracket for bike build up), but 90% of the issues with bikes you will be able to see first hand (flat tire, poorly indexed gears, etc.), and how to resolve them, if you ride. As for tools, a good multi-tool (I use this one) will have the tools to be able to fix most problems, though the shop will have much better proper tools, which should be used if available.

I have a Monster cable lock now and just read the reviews on the brand for the first time. Definitely need to upgrade. I am thinking about something like this. U-locks are supposed to be great, and the cable would help keep the wheels safe.

My first:

Pedals - $50 when I bought at REI 3 years ago

Shoes - $65 when I bought them at REI 3 years ago

Jersey - $30, I absolutely love these cheap jerseys from Amazon, the zipper on the first one I bought finally gave out 3 years later. I will happily spend $30 on a new jersey every couple years.

Shorts - About $40 when I bought, I wouldn't recommend, they are hard to wear for more than an hour. This is one area where I believe it's important to buy nicer materials, especially for long rides. I have Pearl Izumi and Le Col bibs, they are fine but I am still looking for something that works better on long rides. I am trying theblackbibs.com next.

Let me know if you have additional questions as you get started, I took a relatively budget-minded approached when I jumped in.

I recently got a pair of these, and I am loving them. Nice big platform for tons of foot contact, very grippy, so you shouldn't need clips or straps (and you can DIY add pins for more grip if you want), and their look is somewhere between dorky and awesome, which I appreciate.

Water bottles and hydration are a must, I used suffer cramps so on long rides, 60+ will take a salt tablet in addition to any nuun if the weather is particularly hot.

Generally I avoid sugar so no gels etc but that's because they make me sick and for 100+ mile ride it was too much. After looking into it I adapted to a low-carb high fat diet in preparation for a 100 mile 4500 metre climb ride, this totally eliminated any bonks and also any sickness or stomach upsets.

Generally ride fuelling on almonds and nut butters, there are some great brands doing these now. The occasional salted new potato or bag of pork scratchings also hits the spot. Burning fat for primary fuel really made a huge difference for endurance for me as you just don't have to eat an insane amount of calories via carbs/sugars. Check out the Art and Science of Low Carbohydrate performance
The Art and Science of Low Carbohydrate Performance https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/0983490716/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FiZPzb9534B4K it certainly made me a better rider. It's not for everyone but I do it for leisure so I'm not worried about that super peak performance, I suspect most weekend warriors are far from that anyway you also adapt after a few weeks and I found performance gains eventually.

It's worth keeping an eye on fatigue. Strava Premium or Training Peaks can help with this. You can do it with HR or Power, set up a threshold test, get your levels and train to them. Log each ride in either of those apps and they'll tell you fatigue, fitness and form. Your form is worked out using your fatigue and fitness over a specific period of time, you only gain fitness by spending some time fatigued (riding) but you need to keep an eye on form and ensure you adequately recover from periods of training season or long rides. Constant low form will lead to exhaustion, injury and also bad performance or plateau. You might find some recovery time will help you push through the 60 mile barrier.

I find magnesium supplements help with restless leg, you can get some on Amazon that are triple complex so don't cause bowel issues which some magnesium supplements can, one a day helps. Swanson Triple Magnesium Complex (400mg, 300 Capsules) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0017OCDUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JqZPzb38EC5SB

For maintenance guide, I really like the Zinn guides. There's one for road bikes and one for mountain bikes, but a lot of the content is the same.

https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/193771537X/ref=dp_ob_title_bk

I would also suggest attending a "bike maintenance 101" class. You can often find them through your friendly local bike shop or cycling collective, or sometimes your county DOT will offer them. I took one through the county and learned how to change a flat, adjust brakes and shifters, and clean/lube all the bike parts. It was really helpful!

If the wheelset is 700cc then it will fit your road bike. you won't be too wide. Tires is what you will need to be careful with. You will need some spacers if the wheelset is more speeds than 9 speed. You will need a chain whip to remove the cassette and then a tool that allows you to tighten the cassette back down with wrench. I bought both for around 10 bucks. Its super easy to do.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KHPPOVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need eyelets that would be located on the back of the frame. For the most part, he will be stuck riding with a backpack when riding that bike. It's possible that you could get this Ibera rack that will fit onto the seat post but you will need to raise the seat post and take off the reflector and replace that with a bike light. IMO get him a better commuter that could have a sturdier rack and carry more weight that is mounted to the frame instead of the seat post. A good beginner bike would be a Giant Escape 2 or 3
https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Seatpost-mounted-Commuter-Carrier/dp/B002T5GHNI/ref=pd_sbs_468_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002T5GHNI&pd_rd_r=CVHQBP7NSBBDP1EN6BS3&pd_rd_w=O9VLc&pd_rd_wg=cWUf5&psc=1&refRID=CVHQBP7NSBBDP1EN6BS3

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Limar 777


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

Any chain whip that has a 3/32" width chain will do. A well known brand of bike tools is Park Tool. Their general tools (regular wrenches, hex keys, etc) are a little overpriced, but their bike specific tools are often recommended.

The brand of your bike tells us nothing about the make of the drivetrain unfortunately. I expect that your cassette and lockring are either SRAM or Shimano though. So long as your drivetrain isn't Campy, almost all cassette removal tools will be compatible with SRAM, Shimano, and lesser known brands.

Here's what I currently use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KHPPOVM/ . $12 and it gets the job done. So long as you aren't mindlessly overtightening the lockring and ensuring the removal tool and chainwhip are fully engaged on their respective surfaces, I don't see a need to spend a lot of money on the tools.

I have this one and really like it. It lets me transfer all the goods from one bike to another easily.

What I have in mine:

• CO2 canisters ex
  
• CO2 inflater ex
  
• Patch kit ex
  
• Tire levers ex
  
• Allen key tool ex
  
• Tweezers (I use these to get things like thorns out of my tire)
  
• Spare chain link ex (just be sure you get the correct one)

I've been good with a 450 lumen Cygolite on the front, and a Bontrager Flare R on the back.

But the Cygolite Hotshot Pro is a really good taillight too (guys in my group run them), so I'd recommend picking up a combo pack, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/CYGOLITE-LIGHT-COMBO-METRO-HOTSHOT/dp/B07545T4Y9/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cygolite+combo&qid=1550174357&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

Also, I always run two taillights for redundancy, I've had my tail light stop working before, and I didn't know, so consider picking up a lower cost hotshot as well, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=cygolite+hotshot&qid=1550174600&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Putting on actual drop bars would get expensive, you'd need new shifters and brake levers (if the bike has hydraulic brakes you can forget about it). Not to mention, MTB geometry really isn't set up for drops.

You could however add something like Origin 8 drop ends

Best option would be skinnier more road like tires like Schwalbe Marathons or similar, and a rigid fork to help reduce weight up front. Then it would be a halfway decent flat bar bike.

At less than 65% you would drop into "Active Recovery" zone. The % of your max heart rate correlates to (perceived) effort.

after training, your 65% MHR power would go up dramatically. A typical training plan you would do base training for long hours at 65% for 2-3 months. Then start adding in higher intensity intervals.

This is pretty much the TLDR for The Cyclist Training Bible

I use the MKS lambda pedals on my commuter. Fantastic pedals, highly recommend. They look like battleaxes.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GSQVEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?qid=1420519671&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70#

Here are the must-haves for anyone:

1. A helmet that fits
   
   
2. A portable pump like this Lezyne pump in case you get a flat
   
   
3. Backup tire tubes / patch kit / tire levers for the same reason as above
   
   
4. A good bike lock - I like this Kryptonie Series 2 kit
   
   Optional but nice to have:
   
   
5. Water bottle cage & water bottle
   
   
6. Bike shorts or bib
   
   Depending on riding conditions:
   
   
7. Bike lights/reflectors
   
   
8. Cold weather riding gear (pants/etc)
   
   
9. For commuters, panniers/etc
   
   
10. Or a small backpack

I have (nearly) the same bike as you (7.4 Firebrand) and ride mine for the same purposes. Lately I've been training for a charity ride and got a pair of these for cheap on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

The only rub is that you have to also buy adapters for the IsoZone grips so the drop bar ends will fit (~$5). I also got some cork tape from the same company for relatively cheap, altogether making it much cheaper than buying whole new handlebars and shifters.

Also, if you're getting into more fitness riding/training, I couldn't recommend clipless pedals and MTB shoes enough. They've helped with my rides tremendously!

my hub dyno lights are integrated, so I'll skip past those

• pearl izumi thermal light glove - good enough for all but the three or four hottest months of the year
  
  
• $2 headband from home depot it even has a little hole for a ponytail!
  
  
• 1 or 2 ortlieb front rollers, depending on what's being carried
  
  
• kryptonite u-lock - I'm in a low-risk area, so this is enough protection for me.
  
  
• mirricycle incredibell duet - I don't use it often, but when I do it's such a fun sound

Will this do the job?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-Bike-4-Feet-Kryptoflex-Cable/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466694629&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+lock

Hope you don't mind the questions!

Thanks

I love the M530s. In the beginning, there are going to be moments where you don't manage to clip back in, and traffic is not going to stop for those 10 extra seconds you need to get it right. The M530s have enough platform space for you to comfortably pedal without being clipped in. Being double sided and durable as hell are also major bonuses.

These get really good reviews from friends of mine who own them, I am planning to get a couple myself soon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GJZ015Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464648347&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=bright+eyes+bicycle+light&dpPl=1&dpID=515uFVbOheL&ref=plSrch

No, you are still wrong. NO watches are designed to be direct mounted to handlebars. You do it with a separate item that adapts ALL watches to handlebar use.

You seem to be under some mistaken impression that someone is making watches that somehow magically work better on handlebars than others when its just a simple attachment that turns any watch into a nice handle bar mounted piece.

So again you are incorrect in your original statement still and keep going down this rabbit hole. I own one of these watches and i assure you there is nothing special that would make it any better on my bars than a $5 timex from walmart.

You keep throwing terms around like "default function" around yet dont seem to realize the default function of a watch is to be worn on your wrist, period. It requires an adapter regardless of what type of watch it is.

EDIT: For clarification this is what you use. It works exactly the same for any wrist watch you put on it. https://smile.amazon.com/Garmin-Forerunner-Bicycle-Mount-Kit/dp/B000VK5BMQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486584202&sr=8-3&keywords=garmin+handlebar+mount

IIRC Target does not sell any good locks. Buy one online or at your LBS. I have a Kryptonite 2 and it has saved my bike at least a couple times. Maybe later I will post the picture of someones failed attempt to hacksaw through it.

With proper locking technique you shouldn't have to worry during a 30 minute errand, especially if you locked the bike in a place that is well traffic'd and well lit, though I never leave my bike outside overnight if I can help it.

I just got some Shimano SPD-SL Pedals - PD-R540
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9TOHQ

And some Pearl Izumi shoes.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041HX6EA

I like the Pearl Izumi jerseys and shorts that I have so I stayed with that brand.

Only put 40 miles on them this weekend, but they seem nice.

Read The Cyclists Training Bible by Joe Friel.

Like others say its such a hard question to answer. I (and many others) found that book to be a very good starting point.

You do not need spare tires, only a spare tube ($6) plus a patch kit ($6). Here's the guide for inner tube selection: http://guides.wiggle.co.uk/inner-tube-buying-guide

And here's the best patch kit available: https://www.amazon.com/REMA-Tour-Patch-Kit-Large/dp/B0016HSA4O/

https://www.amazon.com/Bright-Eyes-Rechargeable-Headlight-taillight/dp/B00GJZ015Y/

I've had one of these for 1.5 years and it works great. I pair it with another headlight on my helmet and it's plenty for riding singletrack at night on my MTB.

u think this is a fine lock for a relatively cheap bike ?

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482028755&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite

tyvm

i think zinn is the standard. but these days you're probably better looking for a video on youtube.

edit: zinn - https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/193771537X/ref=dp_ob_title_bk

Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance is basically the bible of bike repair. Buy that and supplement it with videos on YouTube from Park Tools or GCN.

If you live in a decent sized city, check and see if there's a bike co-op. They usually offer free/low cost repair classes and have a whole bunch of tools so you can see what you like/need.

I'm a Park Tool loyalist and will only buy that brand for 90% of my bike tools (my hex wrenches, tire levers, screwdriver, and fixie chainwhip are not PT). They're more expensive but they're solid and last forever. Can't really go wrong with them.

Any cheap Shimano show you get on sale. Doesnt matter.

The IMPORTANT PART:

The actual cleat model u get should have release in any direction until you get used to it.

Something like this model:

https://www.rei.com/product/738015/shimano-sh-56-multi-directional-release-spd-cleats


Edit:

Dual side pedals will also help.


https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549029069&sr=1-3&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2762652011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41v5v7OJbjL&ref=plSrch

I'm not a podiatrist, but it seems like what you need is a really big pedal so that you're not using the ball of your foot all the time.

These are what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1550375886&sr=1-1&keywords=pd-m530

I got them for the same reason, that I thought I might want to ride without clipping in from time to time. However, I always clip in and never ride the flat sides. If I were buying today, I would buy something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-PD-M520L-Clipless-Bike-Pedals/dp/B000KC3Y0G/ref=sr_1_8?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1550375990&sr=1-8&keywords=spd+pedals

Bright eyes:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GJZ015Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451945540&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=bright+eyes+bike+light&dpPl=1&dpID=51bCrIX%2BKUL&ref=plSrch
This is mine. Came with decent rear light too. Very bright but has large rechargeable battery. Came with Velcro bag for battery mounting.

Does it have eyelets though?

edit: if it doesn't, you could try something like this

Assuming this is your bike, you're going to have a hard time attaching racks. Maybe a seatpost bike rack will work. But they don't hold much weight. I wouldn't trust it with a laptop or college textbooks. Bikes with rear suspension really don't accommodate racks very well. If you're using your bike a lot for commuting back and forth to school, it would probably be worth trading in the bike to something more appropriate for commuting.

Shimano PD-R540 SPD-SL Road Pedals, cleats included for $35.50. Go to a local performance bike and buy the cheapest shoes that fit, can probably find a pair for about $50. It's still more expensive than $8, but so much better than cages.

I got a cheap Headlight from Amazon that comes with a rechargeable battery and comes with straps to use as a head lamp.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MG7677G/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_RRVUDb8E14KYR

Check out this book

I custom build my touring bike with this book. And of course Shelton Brown.

Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance: The World's Best-Selling Bicycle Repair and Maintenance Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/193771537X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Tsl8AbQ1CPQ4M

Tube

Levers

Frame pump (or alternatively CO2 inflator)

Patch kit (optional)

Saddle bag

Here's your answer

Garmin Forerunner Bicycle Mount Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000VK5BMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FK-ADbD5PVXMC

https://www.amazon.com/Rema-Tour-Patch-Kit-Large/dp/B0016HSA4O/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1536893641&sr=1-2&keywords=vulcanizing+patch+kit

I use the Topeak Nexus II

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037N32VG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1418326394&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

usb chargable, and I use both myself:

rear light

front light

If you're looking for a book, Zinn is hard to beat. Basically the Bible of bike maintenance.

i have a hybrid and just recently added drop bars. it cost a little over $30 and you can find all the materials off of amazon.
link for the dropbars
grip tape

> u think this is a fine lock for a relatively cheap bike ?
> https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482028755&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite tyvm
>

My girlfriend has this lock, the biggest flaw in it is that the lock only engages on one side, that means only one cut is required to remove the lock. Compared to the Kryptonite New York which engages on both sides, which means a thief would need to cut both sides of the shackle to remove the lock.

here you go dude and/or dudette:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html


I would stay away from that coil lock, as it can be snipped in about 10 seconds or less.

I use this combo for a $1300 bike:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK9VQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This may also work for you at a lower price:
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498851267&sr=8-1&keywords=u+lock

You can get a good u lock and cable for about $40 in the US. If you are not in a high theft area like New York City I would go with this lock and cable. https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2 Or this one. https://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Double-Team-PITBULL-U-Lock-Cable/dp/B005YPKBWI Lock the back wheel and frame with the u lock and the front wheel with the cable. The onguard locks are also a good deal. The higher security ones are relatively cheap compared to abus and kyrptonite, but they are heavy and probably overkill unless you are in a high theft area.

If you are in NY, SF, DC and you plan on locking it up unattended I would get two onguard brute locks, or two other locks that have to be cut twice. The locks are thick enough that an angle grinder or very large boltcutters are needed to break the lock. It would require a thief to use an angle grinder and cut at least 4 times to steal the bike. It is hard to get the right positioning to cut that many times and no one is going to that much trouble for a cheap hybrid bike when there are much easier and more valuable targets.