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As far as tires go, CX tires on pavement can definitely feel a little squirrely, especially when descending. I'd say have two sets of tires, one for road and one for off-road endeavors, but it's really up to you. I mean, I'm not the one spending your money.

When you're looking at CX tires, there are basically three categories: "file tread" tires, "all-around" tires, and mud tires. File tread tires have smaller, closely spaced knobs/grooves and are good for fire roads and dry trails. All-around tires tend to have a slightly more aggressive tread pattern than file tread tires, particularly with more pronounced side knobs. These tires are good for lots of conditions. Mud tires have super chunky tread patterns for sloppy racing conditions. They won't be very fun on pavement, and they'll be overkill for most trails.

Your current tires fall into the "all-around" category. Challenge Grifo tires are used by a lot of racers and they have a pretty good reputation. I don't have any personal experience with them, however.

If you want to use the same tires for road and trail riding you'll probably want a file tread tire. Michelin Jet and Kenda Small Block Eight are the first two that come to mind, but there are lots of other options too. And if you want to matchy-match your tire brands, you can always get the Challenge Grifo XS. File treads are definitely viable race tires for drier races with lots of hard-pack and grass sections and not very much mud or sand. A lot of people race with a file tread tire on their rear wheel with a slightly chunkier tire on the front to take advantage of both low rolling resistance in the rear and cornering "bite" in the front.

And as far as my personal recommendations: Michelin Mud 2's are the jamz. Great all-around tire which I would definitely recommend for CX racing if you end up not liking the Grifos. For road tires: Continental Grand Prix 4000S

I've used both the TRP (Tektro Racing Products) CX9's and cheap Tektro Mini V's.

TRP CX9: http://www.amazon.com/TRP-CX-9-Mini-V-Brake-Set/dp/B004C966DK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343829859&sr=8-1&keywords=trp+cx9

Tektro Mini-V brakes: http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-926A-L-Pull-Brake-Black/dp/B001F2USVS/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1343829905&sr=1-3&keywords=tektro+mini+v

As far as braking performance is concerned, they both worked very well (MUCH MUCH better than cantilever brakes). As you can see there is a massive difference in price between the two brake sets. The CX9's are nicer, but I'll list the advantages I've noticed, and you can decide whether it is worth the price difference for you. Side note: Try to find some used, I got my set for $40 I think?

Advantages of the CX9's:
-Lighter (but not by much, 40 grams for the set I think?)
-Much nicer hardware (titanium hardware, and hex bolts instead of phillips)
-Stays in adjustment longer (don't have to tweak the return spring tension nearly as often)
-Better design for CX bikes (some people run into issues with the Tektros not clearing the frame when releasing the brake to change wheels)
-Cartridge-style brake pads instead of the ones where you replace the entire pad and hardware.

In general, yes, mini-v brakes will improve your braking performance, but there are compromises. Modulation is more limited than with cantis, takes some getting used to. Clearance issues, the pads will be closer to the rim, making it easier for them to get gunked up. More importantly (to me at least) is if your wheel takes a big hit and goes a little out of true, the rim will rub on the brake more easily. This can be an issue when racing, but less so for casual riding, becase you can stop to either true the wheel, or reduce cable tension to move the brake pads out and get you home.

I would highly recommend a set of Schwalbe Kojaks 700 x 35. They'll keep the same trail, so handling should be identical to using knobbies, but since they're slicks with nice supple sidewalls they roll very well and aren't priced to break the bank. Oh, and they're not that heavy either. Have a set and love them over Gatorskins, Conti 4Seasons and even my 4000S's.

Personally I would avoid gatorskins. Not a bad tire, but a bit more hype in regards to being bombproof and don't roll all that smoothly. They once were the best value, but their price rose and now they're ok.

> I definitely agree with the others that recommend a hand gauge. I have owned a few different gauges and the SKS Airchecker version 2 is my favorite for cross. Topeak Smartgauge D2 is also really good, but only shows 1 psi increments. Not helpful if you care about half a psi. But maybe it's not worth caring about half a psi.

My favorite gauge. I had one of those fancy digital gauges, can’t remember which, but I found it to be incredibly finicky and unreliable (this is not a review, just my own experience). So I bought a 30 psi Accu-Gage and I’ve used it the last 4 years. As a nice bonus, it’s much cheaper than the digital gauges but reliable and basically indestructible. Anyway, not trying to say not to use a digital gauge. Just use some kind of dedicated low pressure gauge, not the gauge on your floor pump, and if you’re price sensitive, know that the analog options are inexpensive and really good.

The Oryx brakes are pretty squishy and come with some pretty soft pads, so they require longer engagement, thus more pad wear. Like Waltz said, get some v-brake pads or new canti's all together. Like shorty or shorty ultimates or my favorites Paul touring cantis.

If nothing else just get some Salmon Koolstop Thinline pads and make sure they have good toe-in.

i've heard that coaching really helps you improve, but it sounds kind of like a book would be sufficient for your needs.

I have made great improvements using http://www.amazon.com/The-Time-Crunched-Cyclist-2nd-Ed/dp/193403083X

perfect for me because i don't have lots of time, and that book aims for about 7 hours a week max except for the endurance mtb program. and, this book has a cyclocross specific workout plan. i have gone from finishing bottom 25% of 4/5 to being competitive 3/4. i have also learned what my strengths and weaknesses are and am focusing on those before getting back into mtb season.

Copy pasta of a comment from another thread about intervals:

> If you're really interested in doing intervals check out the Time Crunched Cyclist. It's meant to get you race ready only using different types of intervals three times a week. There are plans for newbies and advanced riders, as well as for specific types of riding like long distance or for cross.

> I've been riding for three years and just did the beginner block over the winter and spring. I definitely got faster from it...which is expected as I've never followed a strict plan before.

I'd really recommend starting with the beginner plan and swap in at least 30 mins of dedicated skills work on the Sunday easy miles ride. Most peoplebeginners don't/haven't put a lot of time in practicing barriers, dismounts, and run ups and you can really put the hurt on them if you're even halfway decent.

As I said above, I started with the beginner block and I felt like I started noticing results at about 7 to 8 weeks in to the plan...which fits with the planned 'peak' the training block is supposed to provide. So figure out what your important races might be and plan to start training 8 weeks out.

Races count as workouts, just make sure you're getting enough saddle time though. Eg, if your race is 30 mins and the day calls for 90 mins total, make sure you're getting that extra 60 between warmups, pre-riding, etc...go for a short ride when you get home if you have to.

What age are you? Officially masters start at 30 or 31, I forget. If you're going to a bigger race with a masters category you're going to get destroyed. You'll find lots of racers that used to be hard core Cat1s in there who are just looking for a win, along with a few people in the same situation you're in. I'd really recommend staying in the beginner category this season. If you haven't made the podium in the beginner category you're in no way ready for the masters. (Even if you had, I still wouldn't suggest it)

It depends on conditions, how you ride, what brake pads you use, etc etc. I'd personally start super cheap with something like this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0653KG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and upgrade as needed. Worst that will happen is you destroy a set of pads and have to get new rotors and pads but they very well might be fine and you can save a bit of money. If you ride in mud a lot and you burn through a set of pads too fast maybe get a set of Mud Runners. Otherwise the only reason to upgrade from super cheap simple steel rotors is weight and better heat dissipation (Shimano IceTech stuff, though this is mostly for MTB).

As far as the Mud Runners overheating on MTB trails, I'm not really sure... You might just have to try it out.

Jamis is a great bike, and, if she's comfortable w/ enjoys, I would look into wider, better traction tires and a set of new rims. So, first see what max tire clearance is of her existing rame. If 28 is possible just spring for new set of wheels and add the best traction tires availabe. I ride a road bike w/25 tires

ex.

https://www.amazon.com/Vittoria-Cross-Black-700cm-Wheel/dp/B00FZ05C12/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1505839064&sr=1-1&keywords=700x25+cross+tires

Similar issue here. The dry cold usually leads me to coughing for the rest of the day.

Personally, I prefer a thin neck gaiter vs. a balaclava. They can offer more coverage (face and up the back of your head, under your helmet) and less coverage (face and neck, or just neck) depending on weather or how hot you're getting. Mostly, for me, it's that it's generally easier to pull it off my nose and mouth when I'm stopped at a light or grinding up a slow climb so that my glasses don't fog up as bad. I'll also pull it down a bit once I've really warmed up, so that it's just covering my nose and mouth. Also easier to eat and drink than having a balaclava. And when you've been breathing through it for a bit, it builds up moisture so that the dry air doesn't hit your throat and lungs so hard. Brush your teeth before a ride, though!

It's hard to find a good one for cycling. Thick fleece gaiters are overkill and won't fit up under your helmet comfortably. Thin, merino wool gaiters (Smartwool, etc) are pretty decent, though they're usually longer than you really need and can be a little spendy. My personal favorite was a freebie from a MTB race that's essentially just a short tube of lycra that was cut into a gaiter. You can find cheap lycra gaiters on amazon. You can get a 2-pack for 11 bucks and have a clean one ready to go whenever.

If it's sub-freezing, they can get kinda nasty, as you'll get breath ice building up on it. They pack small enough that I'll stuff an extra in my jersey for a mid-ride refresh.

Edit: example - https://www.amazon.com/JIUSY-Lightweight-Windproof-Protection-Motorcycle/dp/B079MFCZCK

yes they are. They also wear pretty quickly (I went through a rear in about 750 or so miles) compared to the WTB Nano I have had on my 700c gravel bike.

In the next few weeks I am going to pull the trigger on a set of these as they should be a pretty awesome middle ground.

Schwalbe G-One 650b

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177ZXVHE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_16?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A16QDZ1XG7GVFM

I second the suggestion for cr-720s. decent stopping power for the price, great mud clearance, easy set up. I've had them on the nature boy i've raced for the past 3 years. And yes, change the pads. I use the Salmon Kool Stop pads and they work very well.

Nice find! I even raced one of these for a bit. It seems like it's been sitting for a while. I would replace:

• Tires: Get the biggest tire that'll fit.
  
• Brake Pads: This bike looks like it's been sitting. The rubber in the pads is toast. Get some Kool Stops
  
• Chain: Never trust an old one. KMC makes solid stuff.
  

>Brakes didn't do anything in the rain...

Get used to it haha. But seriously, cantilever's are known to be bad and worse when wet. I would recommend salmon kool-stop pads but that will only get you a bit better stopping. Look into mini v brakes for more stopping power.

The tire's look like tufo brand? The color shouldn't mean anything if that's the case. If you're commuting/pleasure riding/training you should be on clinchers (standard tires/not tubulars as it sounds like that's what you have) and have a tube/patch/tire lever/frame pump. I rode with just tubulars for a year or so, but I'm wiser now.

I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039EEN0M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works well, I usually will spray the bike, then apply a bike cleaning soap like the one white lightning makes, scrub the bike with a something like the pedros wash kit that they give away like candy, then rinse again.

Just returned from morning ride and noted a few more things...

I did add also a mirror to handle bars. This one to be exact.

This head light lasts over 12 hours:

The tail light it came with -- blah -- have a more robust one.

Also it took a while to find the right spot for air pump. I am considering a bag eventually but for now this is the location that works best. Other locations obstructed loading it on the carrier. Or it simply falls off the clip it came with, so I use one of the removable zip ties to wrap around the pump itself for now. If it stays in this location, I will trim the zip-ties shorter.

These are the pedals the store (REI) had on this one. I wanted to invest more time on the bike before considering switching to clipless -- to sort of "earn" 'em.

This post morning run bike picture.

Hope you bought this bike! I got mine a few weeks ago and it's fantastic. Full 105 drivetrain/shifters for this price is a steal.

The carbon fork is full carbon, it doesn't stop at the steer tube. The bike is weight and feel competitive with my roommates Kona Jake the Snake (though does lack the internal cable routing and a few other fancy features there).

If you haven't bought yet, consider this http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Front-Cable-Hanger-Black/dp/B006GHDRYC/ref=sr_1_4? brake hanger. You can get a bolt/washer @ Home Depot, I recommend a 1/2" by either 2.5 or 3.0 inches (just grab both, they're like $1). The one it comes with won't do well with mud.

i've shared this link a couple times. never used them myself but the reviews are positive drop bar ends

Here’s the book on Amazon:

The Time-Crunched Cyclist, 2nd Ed.: Fit, Fast, Powerful in 6 Hours a Week (The Time-Crunched Athlete) https://www.amazon.com/dp/193403083X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WtA6Bb2X4FP21

I called Cannondale tech support and they said you simply need to add a seat post collar rack mount to compliment the frame's rack mounts at the dropouts. 31.8mm diameter to match the seat post.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Clamp-Mount-31-8mm/dp/B0014GGN0K/

This fork mount solved all of my shudder issues. Unless you feel like throwing all sorts of money at the problem I'd suggest you try this first. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006GHDRYC/

Here’s the rack mount they recommended (and I bought):

Sunlite Alloy Seat Post Clamp with Rack Mount, 31.8mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014GGN0K/

Here's one on Amazon.