Best products from r/ebikes

>Crankset

If the bike is badly messed up you probably want a bottom bracket rather, or at least in addition to, the crankset.

The bottom bracket is were the bearings are. The crank is just the lever. If the crank isn't stripped out or cracked you can probably just re-use it and put new pedals on it as well as new crank gears. Although it may just be cheaper to buy the entire crankset.

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>Front Derailleur
>
>3 Speed Shift

I recommend converting from a 3-speed to a 2-speed though.

A 2-by setup is MUCH MUCH simpler. The reason being is that getting the chain to perfectly line up on all 3 gears and getting the indexed shifting (clicky shifter) working perfectly is a real huge pain in the ass. Also if the bike gets even a little bit knocked around and/or the shifter cable stretches a fraction of a mm (which there is probably going to be some movement somewhere) then it'll throw everything off again. Conversely with a 2 speed you can use a simple friction shifter and don't have to worry about any adjustments except the travel limiter screws built into the front derailleur.

Rear derailleurs are easy to setup provided nothing is bent. But a front derailleur is finicky as hell.

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Unless the front derailleur is completely destroyed I would try to clean it up and save it. Fitting a new front derailleur can be challenging as there are no real standards. Rears are standardized so it's rarely a issue.

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>Cassette Tool

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You probably want this instead:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=freewheel+removal+tool&ref=nb_sb_noss

see:

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/determining-cassette-freewheel-type

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All cheaper hub motor kits use freewheels.

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>Motor Kit -

These types of motor kits are fine.

Be aware of the downsides though: They are cheap and use wonky as hell parts. The wheel builds are terrible, rims are weak, you WILL have to stay on top of spoke tension... they WILL loosen on their own and WILL break if they become too lose. Stay on top of that and you avoid 90% of the problems people have and the wheel should last a long time. The connections are odd and cheap, the wiring isn't very good, and the throttle will wear out fairly quickly and need to be replaced.

Think of them as a 'starter kit'. As you use the bike you probably will want to upgrade them and that is very good way to get started in the hobby of building ebikes. It is totally recommended for hobbyists. This way you can learn as you go. The motor will last a very long time and is a good basis for starting out.

People have put 10,000+ miles on these cheap kits and they will work, except for the problems I mentioned previously. Over time you can upgrade individual parts into something very nice. However if you are looking for something that will work 100% reliably for years out of the box.. then you will want to spend more money. I recommend Grin for commuter car-replacement setups.

Since you are fixing up a old bike you are interested in the hobby side of things so this is probably a good start.

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>Battery

This battery is too small. These 1000w kits require a pretty powerful battery to keep up with them. The seller is not giving you enough technical information and I think they are being dishonest about the max ratings.

The battery is the actual heart of the bike. It's more important then the motor. It's not where you want to save money on. Between a cheap motor and good battery or cheap battery and good motor... I would choose good battery 150% of the time.

Since they are not really something you can upgrade it's worth buying quality from the start.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/US-stock-Hailong-shark-battery-Electric-bicycle-Battery-48V-17Ah-16ah-ebike-lithium-battery-for-750W/1178407_32966636638.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148357.5.181d1b6483Th5b

That's about as cheapest as I would go.

Unit Pack Power a lower-end manufacturer with good reputation. It is, still, however a low-end battery built to a price point and it's shipped from the USA. You will want to pay attention to the cables and connections to make sure they don't get too hot. They kinda skimp on the wiring sometimes. But it should be ok. The charger probably won't last too long, but that's easy to upgrade. Probably will want to upgrade the connectors eventually.

That uses some newer Panasonic cells, which should be very good.

The top of the line batteries can be found at:

https://em3ev.com/

The actual cost of the battery isn't much different then Unit Pack Power, but unlike PowerPack The Em3ev prices doesn't factor in the cost of shipping.

Still totally worth it. You get a top of the line battery with a extremely good charger and they will stand behind their batteries.

I recommend getting a battery with a smart BMS so you can connect to it with bluetooth from a smart phone or tablet. This is extremely valuable for troubleshooting, estimating range, and monitoring the life of the battery. This is a worthwhile upgrade.

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>I would like to get front disc brakes. Do I just have to replace the fork?

Unless you do something crazy custom then front brakes are not very likely to be done affordably on this bike.

The reason being is that it's a threaded fork with quill stem. Modern bicycles, except the absolutely bottom of the barrel, use threadless forks with clamp on stem. A threaded fork with disk brakes are really uncommon and not recommended.

Instead what you should do is upgrade the brakes from cantalever brakes to V brakes. This is a very significant upgrade in braking reliability. Cantis work well when properly adjusted, but they are a pain and finicky.

I consider cantilever brakes to be dangerous on ebikes unless you really know what you are doing.

You will need to upgrade both the brake levers and V brakes. Cantilever brake levers are incompatible V brakes. Also upgrade the brake pads to dual-pad brake pads. Unless it's a very odd ball cantilevers upgrading to V is about as cheap and easy as it gets.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Mountain-Bicycle-Brake/dp/B001SZ09B6?th=1

How to upgrade:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMyVtWzeuBA

If you end up with squealing you can eliminate that by adjusting the pads so they are slightly toe-in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhgzTt1sumg

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Make sure to get some decent grease and use that to grease up the stem and threads on the bottom bracket and pedals and such things. The grease will help you torque things down correctly and prevent seizing and squeaking.

To be fair to you and your legs, even the easiest gear on that bike (42t up front, 32t on the rear) is passable, but not ideal for serious hills. It's more geared for casual rides, commuting, and only mild hills.

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You have a few options for cheap kits, but keeping it under $400 without relying on potentially dodgy components isn't going to be particularly possible.

Most cheap hub motor kits aren't compatible with cassettes (your rear gearing), so you could either go with a front hub motor, or convert your bike down to a 7-speed freewheel (you'd need to buy and install a 7-speed shifter).

Whether you choose a front or rear hub motor kit, you'll need to find one that will fit in with your bike's 700c wheelset. Terms to look for when searching for a kit include "700c", "28 inch", and "29 inch". They're all different marketing names for the same wheel diameter.

Here's the cheapest one I was able to find in a very brief eBay search. It's a 500w geared motor, available for either front or rear (you'll need to convert your bike to 7-speed if you want the rear option) at $175, or $225 if you want it with an upgrade LCD display. I prefer the display, but it's not mandatory.

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Next, you'll need a battery. There are a lot of good options out there, for batteries made with name-brand cells and sold be reputable sellers. But there are also a lot of questionable sellers out there, selling packs made out of generic Chinese cells that might or might not meet their stated specifications.

The big three sellers that I would recommend are LunaCycle, EM3ev, and if you can't find a battery from either of those two (your low-step frame basically rules out a lot of the popular mid-frame-mounted battery designs), shop carefully from UnitPackPower.

Things to look for from a battery:

1. The battery's nominal voltage needs to match the designed voltage for your kit. So, if you buy a 36v kit, you need a 36v battery. If you buy a 48v kit, you need a 48v or 52v battery (they're close enough to be mostly interchangeable).
   
   
2. The battery needs to be able to supply enough current for your kit. The battery will have two current ratings - a continuous current rating, and a maximum or peak rating. If you choose not to buy from a reputable manufacturer, it's safest to ignore the peak rating entirely, because sellers like to list peak ratings that the battery might only be able to maintain for as little as fractions of a second. To avoid straining the battery, you want the battery's continuous rating to match the motor controller's peak rating.
   
   
3. For maximum safety and battery reliability/longevity, you want a battery that's made from name-brand cells. Sanyo, Panasonic, Samsung, and LG are the most common cell manufacturers you'll see when looking for ebike batteries. If the product listing for a battery doesn't list the brand of cells they're using, avoid that battery. UnitPackPower sells name-brand packs alongside generic packs, so you'll want to watch for this.
   
   To tie all of this in with the 36v 500w kit I pointed out earlier in this post, here is a battery from UnitPackPower that fits the requirements.
   
   
4. The battery is 36v nominal, to match the 36v motor kit.
   
   
5. This battery can supply 20A continuous. The kit I linked to doesn't actually list its controller's peak rating. It never hurts to ask the seller when information is missing, but for a 500w kit, 20A should be plenty.
   
   
6. This pack is listed as using Samsung cells. They're not going to be high-end cells at this price point, but at least you can be sure that they were manufactured with quality control in mind.
   
   This pack is $312 on its own, or $394 including the rear rack that it's designed to slot into. But you can always just strap it to a rack of your choice, or mount it however.
   
   ---
   
   The last item you'll need is a torque arm. I'd suggest reading through this article from ebikes.ca that explains what torque arms are, and why you want one. Unfortunately, the torque arm that comes with the kit I linked to is a knockoff of an old design (the GrinTech TorqArm_V1 mentioned in the article) that was faulty in design and was discontinued in 2010. So, you'll want a better one. I recommend the TorqArm_V3. It's overkill for a 500w motor, but that's not a bad thing.
   
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   So, taking my examples from above, we've got:
   
   36v front hub motor kit: $175-$225
   
   36v13Ah battery from UnitPackPower: $312-$394
   
   Torque Arm: $30
   
   And, let's say $15 for zipties, maybe a few wiring connectors for the likely event that the battery and the controller don't come with matching connectors, that sort of thing.
   
   Total example cost: $532-$664
   
   ---
   
   Caveats:
   
   In my examples, I picked the cheapest decent-looking options I found in a very quick search. You might find cheaper and/or better options that I missed, and prices and product availability are always changing.
   
   The main issue I take with my own example, is the choice of a 36v system. In the last couple years, 36v has been slowly falling out of favor, with 48v/52v systems now being more available from the reputable sellers. I picked the 36v setup because it was the cheapest I found at the moment, but if you're willing to spend just a bit more, or wait for prices to shift, you'll find a much wider range of reputable options in 48v/52v.
   
   An important topic that I didn't cover is battery capacity, and thus range. You didn't mention any particular range requirement, and mentioned hills in your neighborhood as the main obstacle, so I made the assumption that you aren't really looking for a huge battery. The 36v13Ah battery I listed as an example would be good for 18-23 miles on level ground, at 20mph, without the rider pedaling. Range will be lower with hills, higher if you pedal to help it along.
   
   Edit: If you do want to use one of the popular mid-mounted battery options, like this one from EM3ev, you could mount it to your bike's top tube using a set of Grin Technologies Bottle Bobs. I would have mentioned that option earlier, but I forgot it existed.

Are you not worried about your battery getting stolen? I drive my bike to school every day and lock it up at the racks with hundreds of other bikes, so I want to make sure that mine is secure and can't be stolen. I'll ask em3ev if they have any secure mounts or something, but if they don't then do you know anyone else who does?

Also, you have convinced me... I am getting a rear wheel hub motor. Now my question is... Is the one I linked in my original post the best kit option for $200-$250? Or is there something much better for a similar price? Preferably a kit with everything I will need or some kind of parts list with links for everything I need.

Also, is there a huge difference between the 48 and 52V batteries? Is it better to go 52V for the hub kit i linked originally? (Or a better similar one if you recommend it.)

And how can I make sure that the kit will fit my bike? I read that most manufactures will say the width of the frame (where the rear tire is) required for their wheel/motor kit. I measured my 2 bikes and ones at 129mm and the other at 136mm.

For me, this: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PH-1-2-P-Handled-Wrench/dp/B003FPONCI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802830&sr=8-2&keywords=park+tool+allen+key&dpID=419-T8tUMxL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

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I was too stingy to buy good allen keys for a very long time because I had a ton of really cheap ones, and the cheap ones did work. But every time I use the ones above, I think: "These were so worth it". I say that to myself every single time.

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Not a tool, but since someone else mentioned a tire: 200 miles ago I put on some Maxis Hookworms - best commuting tires I ever had. Wow. I had Vee Chinane and then Vee Speedster before - I got flats every other week, none on the hookworms and the hookworms are much more stable on less grippy surfaces either. Every time I reach a place I think: Wow, those are the best tires I ever had.

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Other tools I use constantly:

- my bike repair stand, i use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802939&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bikehand+bike+stand&psc=1

- my chain link tool: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Shop-Tools/Park-Tool-Master-Pliers-MLP-1-2/B00D9NW32I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803019&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tool+chain+link+tool

- A good portable multitool with chainbreaker: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Multifunction-Tools/Topeak-Alien-31-Function-Bicycle-Tool/B000FIE4AE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803074&sr=8-2&keywords=alien+tool

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I don't really know how much money was saved or not saved. I bought

this motor for $240

and

this battery for $463

You might find better deals, I honestly didn't look that hard.

I know a lot of pre builts go for way more money and some might be right on par with what I spent but I also don't think it's ridiculous to spend higher prices, for a few reasons:

1. peace of mind that someone who knew what they were doing assembled everything
   
2. support from the manufacturer
   
3. my bike is not street legal, technically. While I'm on the road, I only go as fast as any legal ebike and I follow all the rules of the road. I haven't gotten any attention from police after 1000+ miles so I think this is fine but still at the end of the day it's not legal. This may be an issue if (when) I ever get in a car accident.
   
   As far as actually assembling the motor and battery it was pretty simple. I soldered my battery cables to the controller that came with the motor but everything else was plug and play. The toughest part will be mounting the battery somewhere on the bike, if you have a water bottle cage you can use the mounts from there.
   
   Finally, yes there are loads of us here on /r/ebikes that made our own creations! I found some help here when I had questions and found everyone to be friendly.

There's more than one Ancheer rider on the sub-reddit.

https://www.amazon.com/ANCHEER-Electric-Mountain-Removable-Lithium-Ion/dp/B01AU7KWXC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=5RCD10FNNZ3M&keywords=ancheer+electric+bike&qid=1561996468&s=gateway&sprefix=ancheer+e%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

Just keep in mind that you're buying an inexpesnive Chinese product. When you get it, you'll need to do some assembly and go over all the hardware to make sure everything is tight. You do not want to find out on the road, trust me. If you're not comfortable doing this yourself, buy the bike at ~$600 and spend the extra budget on taking it to a bike mechanic, or even a friend who is mechanically inclined to help you out.

The other thing to note is that 30 mile range is on the high end for your budget. If the ground is level, you keep speeds down (under 15 MPH), and you are willing to pedal to help out, you can get 30 miles out of that Ancheer.

Final thing. No one can tell you an e-bike's range; it's all about battery capacity and the load you'll put on the bike. Going faster requires more energy. Starting from a stop requires more energy than cruising. Going up hill requires more energy. It's just like your car. How many miles can you go on 10 gallons of gas? It all depends on where and how you drive.

You'll see batteries advertised with volts (V) and amp hours (Ah). For example, that Ancheer has a 36V 8Ah battery. To compare that battery against others, you can't just use the Ah part though. You multiply V x Ah to get Wh (watt-hours). Watt hours are the best way to compare batteries. That Ancheer bike has a 288Wh battery, which is pretty small. That's what you get at this price range though. Batteries are a commodity (like gas). There's no way to get 10 gallons of gas for the price of 5 gallons, and there's no way to get 500Wh of battery for the price of 250Wh ;)

What are you looking for?

I definitely recommend a suspension seat post for more comfort.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BIQN9UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0dKcBb0HND9Z2

I also put a ram mount on mine so I can have my phone on the bars for gps. Makes it easy to connect to the USB port too.

I added a second usb rechargeable led headlight along with a rechargeable tail.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077CZK75L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9eKcBbC7DX9KQ

And lastly, I put on some cheap plastic moto hand guards to protect my hands since I trail ride it often.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073P3JH7F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bcKcBbM524YT5

This also fits nice in the nook behind the battery
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZP3ADU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jdKcBbED6PRMF

I have had lots of fun with this Aosom brand 1000w rear hub kit from amazon - currently $278

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GIXZKP8/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

I'm running it on 14s 5000mah pack from hobby king for around $100. With proper care lips are safe.

I'd encourage you to read the amazon reviews. I had no issues but it is nice to know Amazon also has a strong return policy.

Stick to your budget, you can always sell your first build in the future.

Is the frame steel? I use a breaker bar to put about 100 ft-lbs on the lockring on my aluminum MTB's and they don't come undone.

That looks like it will be an insanely fun bike, please upgrade the brakes as fast as you can. I also recommend bright lights on every e-bike. I've been receiving much more respect since mounting two of these. They work day and night to disrupt some drivers' dangerous maneuvering. And the good drivers seem to appreciate the match of speed with lighting.

https://www.amazon.com/LEORX-12V-80V-Motorcycle-Headlight-Accessories/dp/B00XVAEP8E/ref=pd_sbs_263_t_0/146-8238102-6118412?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00XVAEP8E&pd_rd_r=7e6c1e65-8363-487f-9660-ca054d8dedfb&pd_rd_w=HhYc0&pd_rd_wg=pzkoL&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=Q883XAQ321KZG1STWM8B&psc=1&refRID=Q883XAQ321KZG1STWM8B

It's crazy how stealth the Bafangs are in practice.

I would second the comments on going with a known vender like those mentioned for the battery. I bought a kit from Amazon and a battery from Luna. Very happy. As mentioned, your current plan now going to place a lot of weight on the back. I would like at the measurements for putting the battery between the frame. It will distribute the weight much better. Grin makes some mounts that might help. https://www.amazon.com/Grin-Technologies-Bottle-Bob/dp/B078T6QRQB. For some reason I can not find them on their site but on Amazon.

On other thing to look for would be a controller that does Regen braking. While it isn't going to stop you it will add more braking power.

Good luck..

I think sondors requires some work to get past the 20mph speed limiter. Here are the battery stats for Sondors, 36V 8.8Ah Lithium Ion (Upgraded battery – 36V 12.8Ah). This is a decent battery if your round trip is < 10 miles for standard battery and < 15 miles for upgraded.

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You may consider the Golden Motor v5. Should be an easy install. This build would give you regen braking. If you went with the 48v 17.5 ah battery and all the addons for the back wheel it would be about $1100. This battery has about twice the range the sondor's upgraded battery has. This would leave your budget with ~$400 for buying a bike to put this on. http://lunacycle.com/hot-new/golden-motor-v5-magic-pie-complete-kit/

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I've had good results with a BBSHD, but that kit with a battery is like $1500. Seems out of your budget. If you can squeeze it in then this is certainly a good option.

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If you don't have tools then you should buy this kit to work on your bike. It is missing a single allen key that you would need to install the power/assist-level control to the handlebars. The size of this falls in between the smallest and second smallest allen keys that come with the $39.99 kit. So you may want to buy a metric allen key set if you want to be sure. $39.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BW4T7BG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and $14.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MQVRZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Imo don't buy a ebike prebuilt since you would miss out on gaining a lot of knowledge and you'll get a little less for your money unless you decide your time you're willing to invest is minimal. There are youtube videos of installing bbshd and what not. You should do more research.

I'd have to recommend something like this for you. It's what I'd do myself if I had a bike worth upgrading.

I'm in a similar situation. I'm joining this wonderful cult as well but no bike that I own is worth upgrading. More than likely I'll end up getting a low end E-Bike ($600 , no shocks, standard 500W 46V Motor) and experimenting with that until I can afford to build something more substantial (Purchasing a $2k+ mountain bike then building it from that).

A big thing for me is water resistance, being able to ride my bike through rain, snow and mud. The factory's in China can improve the bikes resistance to water for alot less yen or whatever than I can. Mostly being that I don't have the proper tools or materials yet, which I plan on purchasing soon after I switch my transportation methods and save myself some money.

If anyone wants to comment on my future plan please do. I'm on a very tight budget until I have an alternate method of transportation so I'm limited to roughly a grand. I've been taking the time to educate myself before making any investments so I'm aware of kit-cost, suspension benefits and diminishing returns on a low-end suspension, the vulnerability of folding bikes, limitations of fat boys and their low mph tolerance. Looking forward to getting some hands on experienced with the whole configuration though.

It is $600 and buy one get one free? That seems pretty inexpensive especially with a bike rack thrown in.

Also, I found the bike on Amazon which is out of stock now but has a bunch of reviews.

It's a 250 watt bike with an 8AH battery which is pretty low end in specs but it's also a pretty low price for an eBike. The reviews aren't awful and most of them probably paid 2x what you are paying.

One reviewer said they logged 1000 miles on theirs which is more than I would expect. It's walmart tier but sometimes walmart tier is OK.

At least if one dies you'll have a parts bike.

BBS02 and em3ev for the win. Its not that hard to install and tool kit from amazon like the bike hand http://amzn.com/B00BW4T7BG would have all the tools needed. However, if the fixed bottom bracket (drive side) cup is sticking, then you'll want http://amzn.com/B001VS9ZBU or similar and a 4 inch length bolt, 2x 2 inch diameter washer, and nut in order to clamp the tool in to the cup through the BB as it slips very easily.

They mount onto the bottle mounts on your bike (assuming you have them). There are ways around this if you don't have bottle mounts, like bottle bobs or sks anywhere bottle mount. You can see the mount attached to the battery in the pic. Actually they make it pretty clear in one of the pics, lol: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61GdMqKoJLL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

Edit: Oops, I should have looked at your bike pic. This is a real step-thru frame, well the kind I was thinking of.

So you have no bottle mounts it seems. You can either add your own using rivnuts, or use bottle bobs like these: https://www.amazon.com/Grin-Technologies-Bottle-Bob/dp/B078T6QRQB

I put two on myself, here is the best you can buy. You could fabricate your own but these guys are pretty good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K60C67Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well, it's for sale on Amazon and Amazon calls it their kit, so I call it Amazon's kit! Not sure who actually fulfills the order, though, probably a third party seller. But I call it that to make it apparent it's easy to buy the same thing:


https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YBWAINC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you're already using it to commute that short of a distance I'd recommend a small 250W-500W hub, like the Golden Motor Smart Pie and a small (<10Ah) 52V battery. The Smart Pie only weighs ~12lbs, and the controller is built into the hub which simplifies installation. It'll basically make the trip faster and hills easier without drastically altering the character of the bike, or raising your speeds to the point of being dangerous without suspension and disc brakes. I would also consider at least 1.5" wide tires to reduce the chance of breaking spokes and a suspension seat post to mitigate the impact of bumps at higher speeds.

I don't doubt you're going this fast, I just recommend that people who regularly exceed 25 mph (on streets with 2-way traffic or many cross streets) use lights bright enough to grab attention in the daytime. Here are very easy ones to install.

https://www.amazon.com/LEORX-12V-80V-Motorcycle-Headlight-Accessories/dp/B00XVAEP8E/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=leorx&qid=1570057261&s=gateway&sr=8-9

I think that's the kit I bought from the bafang USA website. It was an easy install for a first timer like me. I just followed the youtube video. You do need to buy some specific tools. Here's the tool kit I ordered with the bottom bracket remover tool.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0716NX7KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Other things that are helpful are a bike repair stand and bike chain splitter tool.

A mirror is the best thing I've added to my ebike. Mine is clamped to the handlebar and mounted below. A quick glance is all I need to view oncoming traffic. (Hmmm is "oncoming" the correct term for a car approaching from the rear?) Nonetheless, I feel much safer now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWRMZZF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rather than saddles, think of the seat post. They get great reviews.

Im tossing up between these ones, and cant decide which is better for eBikes:

Thudbuster

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BIQN9UC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1C9T7ACO5T769

and

Suntour

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000T3BYH6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Bikehand pro. I borrowed it from my friend and it's doing a great job holding up Project ChEBorow. I'm ordering my own right now.

Well, if it makes you feel better, me and my partner have had very little bike fixing experience, we've had to learn it all ourselves.

The bike comes 95% assembled:

• need to use a hex wrench to fasten the handlebars
  
• you need a wrench to install the pedals
  
  We ended up getting a bike repair stand which does a great job of holding the bike if you take the battery off first. My partner and i swapped out our tires to some semi-slicks and have since learned how to replace flats on our own. We are still pretty slow -- it takes us 30-45 minutes to take off and reinstall a tire but we're getting faster! This is coming from someone who is not very mechanically inclined either.
  
  They also include a variety of tools (tire levels, etc) that you can use for maintenance, so you don't have to worry too much about going out and buying it yourself -- we had to go to our local hardware store because their toolkits were out of stock at the time.

48v 13ah battery (0.624)kwh, so a pretty good size battery for casual riding ($272)
48v 1000w conversion kit More than enough power with pretty much everything you need. ($232)
So $504 total if you already have a bike. Very possible to be sub $500 easily with a 36v battery or a 48v 10ah or less battery.

This guy gets my desire for having turn signals on the bike!

I definitely do have plans for using them at night... and I suspect the positioning of the handle-bars would preclude easy use of the bike's handlebars to attach the lights for visibility.

I plan on attaching two sets of lights. One set near the back of my head for higher visibility and another set on the bottom part of the quad-bike's frame where cargo would go normally. This way, I'm covered both ways.

I got the kick bike used from Craigslist. I used a kit off EBay to do one of them. The other I did with Alibaba kit which was a little cheaper but was essentially the exact same.

I used this kit for a Schwinn kick bike with a true 26” front wheel. Worked great. I mounted the battery over the rear wheel using a rack and some engineering ingenuity. Didn’t install the pedals assist (there are no pedals....) and used the thumb throttle only. If you are installing a kick bike brand scooted, you may need to get a 700 size tire or 29” tire, depending on the kick bike model. You must match the tire size or risk a ground clearance issue with the board.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761QYCKM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I’ll look for a picture of my build. Please be warned it’s wrapped in cheetah fabric and playa dust from burning man.....

I'm also looking into building my first bike and have been reading a lot of suggestions on this sub about torque arms. I guess they have been through a few revisions because the early ones didn't work well enough. So don't order the cheapest one because it is for safety and you want it to work! Here's what I've gathered others recommending, but someone can correct me if there is a better one out there. Grin V3

I didn't use a guide, mostly just built it to how I liked it. Here are my parts though, don't hesitate to ask any questions!

Front hub motor with wheel and tire. Includes throttle, controller with bag, PAS (pedal assist), and 2 ebrakes that can be hooked up to caliper brakes.

Headlight with switch, also has a horn.

Taillight that I connected to the headlight switch wiring.

I can't link the exact battery, because it was a one-off item. For the motor I listed above, you'll need a 36v battery with 13Ah+.

I also used dielectric grease to help water/rust proof the connectors, silicone sealant for the case of every part. To hide the wiring, I drilled holes in the frame and routed wires through.

All ebikes have a motor that makes noise that you'll have to get used to compared to a traditional bike, but it's not so bad. If it gets annoying, a half face helmet for mopeds/motorcycles will have flaps/plastic to block noise out.

The other answer...is tricky. That budget is very low for a new ebike (I can't comment on mopeds as where I live, you need a license to operate them, so I don't have one). There will likely be a lot of people coming along shortly saying "no good ebike is $500". That may be true to people with a comfortable income, but I do understand if you don't have a lot of money to throw around because of life circumstances.

If you have no large hills and/or are willing to help the motor by pedaling - this bike maybe, plus slap a cheap cargo rack on it, and you can buy/have it shipped to your local Walmart for pickup.

Ancheer ebikes for a bit more+shipping is similar quality if you prefer buying off Amazon.

If your commute is small, and by 'basic cargo' you mean something that fits in a bike basket - Maybe the Swagtron line of ebikes which are smaller+foldable.

Otherwise, if you're willing to up your budget a couple of hundred dollars more, I have this folding Ecotric bike and it's got a more powerful motor (250w vs 500w)- it does most of what I want to, including get up Pacific Northwest style hills so long as I pedal to help the motor along.

There's also the argument you'll get "the most bang for your buck" by converting a bike - and this can be true...but it also depends. Converted my old 26" Schwinn I had sitting around - and the conversion varies by the condition of the bike you use as the donor (some bikes need maintenance, even brand new bikes can have some questionable parts if you buy it from a box store), and buying batteries for cheap can be a bit overwhelming (I bought a bare minimum battery for $200, 48v/10.4 AH, which is okay on flats...but absolutely gets murdered on the hills I actually need it for). If one is new at bike mechanics/basic electrical concepts, it will require extra manpower hours to learn how to put the kit on the bike.

Cheers!

Doing a little bit more research, I found a front and rear 48V 1000W kit that comes to a little over $500. It looks like this is exactly what I'm looking for.

I think I'm going to wait a week or two before I buy these since they're so cheap. Any additional advice in the meantime would be appreciated.

I ordered a kit from greenbikesale. they threw in two wrenches, needed to install the motor. the only other tool i got was the bottom bracket and pedals removal tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0716NX7KC

don't even think about removing pedals without it (like with a hammer or something) - not gonna go well.

get some automotive wire conduit and lotsa zip ties to organize the wiring.

the install went way easier than I thought. You basically mount the motor and connect the wires.. and you are done.

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "V2"

Here is link number 2 - Previous text "V3"

Here is link number 3 - Previous text "V4"



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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D9B7OKQ

This one is surprisingly good considering the price. IMO you won't find better for a new stand under $100

WingLights magnetic version:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FFJ9LDC

Non-detachable version ($15 cheaper and ~1cm shorter):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HBC4U0

CYCL's pitch video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewFJZR0bExw

Some random 1 minute review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOYLkz9VODA

Turn signal gloves also seem alright (if you like wearing gloves):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QYEEX2C

I'm not a fan of those saddle-mounted turn signals. They are too close together and only visible from the back.

Grin Technologies Universal Front Torque Arm Version 3 for Electric Bikes / ebikes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K57N9II/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_opFUCbJ89B51S

https://www.amazon.com/LEORX-12V-80V-Motorcycle-Headlight-Accessories/dp/B00XVAEP8E/ref=lp_10670500011_1_6?srs=10670500011&ie=UTF8&qid=1524337817&sr=8-6

Twelve bucks. Pick up a switch and fuseholder for another ~5 each. Just wire it in where the battery meets your controller. The voltage stepdown is built in so you don't have to think about it, and it's... really goddamned bright. I fashioned a different mount for mine because the included one is flimsy. There are two threaded holes in the body so you can get creative.

Can you send me link for geared hub?

Is it like this?

JAXPETY 36V 500W Electric Bicycle Cycle 26" E Bike Front Wheel Ebike Hub Motor Conversion Kit Hub Motor Wheel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761QYCKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FC35CbJT3X5K0

I use this cheap $12 headlight and I really like it.

LEORX 12V-80V 20W Motorcycle E-bike LED Headlight Lamp Car Accessories (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XVAEP8E?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWRMZZF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1This guy, I've never ran a mirror before so I can't offer an real insight, seems well reviewed and have seen a few recommendations for it.

I just cut, soldered, and used good glue filled shrink wraps. Im sure if you are not comfortable with that type of installation you could find connectors to plug it right in.

LEORX 12V-80V 20W Motorcycle E-bike LED Headlight Lamp Car Accessories (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XVAEP8E/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_cnhZRX91yCbdx

These mounts are pretty solid, but would require spacers to move the battery away from the curved tubes. Maybe not as pretty as some of the CNC clamps linked above though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078T6QRQB

Here is some shameless self promotion for my wife's Sweet Curry conversion: https://www.instagram.com/p/BqAmkupAs4i/?utm\_source=ig\_web\_copy\_link

I got them off of Amazon. The only real issue was that the battery wouldn't fit in the middle due to the curved frame. But it works.

• Battery $319.00
  
• Motor $192.95

eBike Conversion Kit

Battery

what else would i need?

Im asking a legit question why downvote ._.

Do you have this version? I got this one (this is the 2019 version) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AU7KWXC/

Here's the motor kit and battery I purchased last week https://www.amazon.com/JAXPETY-Electric-Bicycle-Cycle-Conversion/dp/B0761QYCKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542467236&sr=8-1&keywords=jaxpety+36v

https://www.amazon.com/Homgrace-Replacement-Electric-Bicycles-Mountain/dp/B07C1N3J1W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542467320&sr=8-2&keywords=homgrace+36v

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761QYCKM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do you think I could mount the battery on the downtube using these?

https://www.amazon.com/Grin-Technologies-Bottle-Bob/dp/B078T6QRQB/ref=sr_1_8?qid=1565989720&refinements=p_4%3AGrin+Technologies&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-8

https://www.amazon.com/Aosom-Electric-Battery-Powered-Conversion/dp/B00GIXZKP8

Maybe this? Check out the "frequently bought together". Those are some big heavy batteries though. Also this hub is 375 new but there are some used available for $210(don't know the seller) and $250 if you get it from amazon. Might be worth a shot...

Edit: it says they're 11ah batteries each but how many miles do you lose due to their weight? My 11.6ah lipo pack weighs ~6lbs

This is the seller/kit I bought, so far no problems had it a couple months

AW 26"x1.75" Rear Wheel 48V 1000W Electric Bicycle Motor Kit E-Bike Cycling Hub Conversion Dual Mode Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBWAINC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_pahn2BWMUa2up

NYC?
For the city I'd love a fortified single speed, with a small front hub kit. The fortified bike is supposed to be tough to steal and a front hub motor could be more easily locked up with the frame.

I'd be concerned about theft first then coppers.

links:

example bike -- https://www.amazon.com/Fortified-Commuter-Theft-Resistant-Single-Medium/dp/B01MSLM9XI/ref=lp_15982031011_1_1?srs=15982031011&ie=UTF8&qid=1520459892&sr=8-1

example kit -- https://dillengerelectricbikes.com/electric-bike-kits/best-sellers/street-legal-electric-bike-kit-samsung-power-13ah-by-dillenger.html


or could get a cheap steel single speed (pure cycle or something) and add that hub kit to it.


other choice (I'm obviously about cheap/hard to steal bikes for the city): Ancheer cheap electric https://www.amazon.com/ANCHEER-Electric-Mountain-Removable-Lithium-Ion/dp/B01AU7KWXC/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1520460322&sr=1-5&keywords=ancheer


however, the 1-star ancheer ebike reviews are scary...evidently the brakes suck

100? the fuck? it's 38$ https://www.amazon.com/Grin-Technologies-Universal-Electric-ebikes/dp/B00K60C67Y

Beat me to the torque arm warning. If the front fork fails from the torque of the motor you're looking at a high chance of a fatality.

Grin Technologies Universal Front Torque Arm Version 3 for Electric Bikes / ebikes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K57N9II/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_J.qVDbBJA6KS2

I think what she wanted to say is the brake touch the disc ,you have to set them because they arent but it s easy
I never did it before and it took me 5 min after watching a tutorial video to do it.
I will not recomend the folding version , why ?because the battery is just in the front bag with a lot of wire and with out any protection or very poor protection against rain and crashes
an the battery isnt remobable so a thief can easely take it and you cant let the bike in the garage or outside and charge the battery at home
this version: https://www.amazon.com/ANCHEER-Electric-Mountain-Removable-Lithium-Ion/dp/B01AU7KWXC has a metal bottle battery and this is removable battery this is a lot better and safer
I had this bike for month and I crashed 2 time ( because I wanted to push this bike to his limit)
and everything still working
watch the youtube channel : Vegas Romaniac he has more than 20 video avout this bike covering everything on
this bike and he rided this bike for 6000 miles!: and the battery hasnt loose a lot , this bike have two problem : the tire/ air tube is bad you will probably have a flat soon , but it s not a big deal take schwalbe marathon and you will not have a flat for a long time
and the seat is very hard , same it s easy and cheap to replace

sorry for my bad english I am french , you can buy this bike for 500 euros on aliexpress in fact they have just raised the price before when I bought it it was 400 euros