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Ok. Actually, it is good that we confirmed HRV activation will turn on the furnace fan.

Disconnect the ACC+ to G bridge at Ecobee.

Based on the tests, we know now that when the thermostat activates fan, the signal of the G wire is not sensed by the HRV and is just passed through to the furnace.

So the only way to use Ecobee to control the HRV is using a dry contact switch between HRV terminals 2 and 6 with terminals 2 and 3 bridged.

The Ecobee ACC+/- connection is a dry contact switch. But that means you will need 2 free wires running from the ecobee to the HRV.

It is possible to use only 1 free wire (which you could free easily using the PEK), by adding a 24vac SPNO relay at the furnace end. This is the cheaper/easier solution if you can’t run new wire easily.

You can buy either a SPNO or SPNO/NC relay. Like this on Emerson 90-380 Relay, Fan, 24 VAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDCPQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_w.qOAb081R1GE

On the relay, connect ecobee ACC+ to coil 1 and coil 2 to furnace Common. Then connect relay NO to HRV #2 and relay COM to HRV #6. Bridge HRV #2 and 3.

Leave those at default...I'm no expert but I've never heard that and I've read enough HVAC forums I dream about ducts. What you DONT want is short cycling, but it's not gonna short cycle. Also your units gonna operate better and more efficiently the longer it runs..quick hits or short cycling don't reach peak efficiency.

Do you have a heat pump or actual AC and furnace? For instance I have 2 heat pumps. How old are your units? How old is the home? Filters changed recently? When was the last time they were checked out by a tech? How many units? Are you using the Ecobee remote sensors? Are you using follow me? What about comfort schedules?

Before I replaced our 24 year old units I'd have them checked and topped off with refrigerant every year.

One huge thing..order a very accurate temp/humidity gauge from Amazon and check how accurate your ecobee is. I ordered this one:Caliber IV Digital Hygromter by Western Humidor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXOKQVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cGQtzb1J5MR5B

One of my ecobees was 4 degrees off and the other 2.5 degrees off, and humidity was off for both of them. So when we had it set to 75 it's really cooling to 71 (or trying to).

I'm still chasing issues but I'm down to ductwork and just a leaky house. I'll say though, when it's 95 or so and 110 heat index like it was yesterday..if the units are properly sized and such they're pretty much gonna run all day. I bet mine didn't really start shutting down and cycling until 10pm last night.

Thanks for the help guys!

Ecobee support got back to me. They let me know that the support rep that assisted me was wrong to tell me to do the connections that way. They found my call and let me know that they will be talking to that rep for future calls and training.

Basically the new rep let me know that all Honeywell thermostats have a "Wire Saver Module" (Looks like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Honeywell-THP9045A1023-WireSaver-Prestige-Thermostats/dp/B0060ASWPE).

He gave me the proper instructions to hook up the PEK and I am in business!

As mentioned from the above comments, the Green cable was moved to the G port.

I now have Cooling as an option! Woo!

Thanks all!

ok I'll look around if I can can find one locally.
If not I'll probably just order the one on Amazon.ca it's $19.04 CAD shipped. https://www.amazon.ca/Emerson-90-380-Relay-Fan-VAC/dp/B000LDCPQS

Found a manual for it here. Not clue how to read it, however I'm sure you will ;)
https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/459/Cat_06_pg0115-1627.pdf

I'll let you know once I get one! Thanks again for all the awesome help (and patience!)

One thing you'll learn with the ecobee and the heat pump is that you'll have to do a lot of the learning. The thermostat just doesn't have the data needed to figure out the best settings for your particular set up, and there is no "the way" for each system. I highly recommend spending the money on a laser temperature gun to measure the air coming out of your vents to judge whether or not your system is running ok without aux especially once the temps drop below 30 (assuming you change the ecobee defaults for this). Just feeling it won't be enough - once you get in the teens there's a chance you are blowing out 90 degree air. Warm enough to hopefully keep your place warm, but will still feel slightly cool to the touch.

They are pretty damn cheap and now that I have one I went around checking for cold spots, measuring skillet temps, pointing at my wife, etc. Definitely got my twenty bucks worth.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YCAWCV4/
https://www.homecontrols.com/Keen-Home-Zigbee-Smart-Vent-KHSVx?quantity=1&custcol2=164

I bought one from Amazon, and the other from homecontrols.com because I needed a different size that needed a plate to make it fit.

I think it says it works with the ecobee, but they may want you to have their hub. I use a smartthings hub and the ecobee sensors show up in smart things, the vents show up as switches basically and there is a smart app that lets you set when the vents open or close based on any connected sensors, so I point the vent is a certain room to open or close based in temp in that room.

No doubt your remark was meant in jest, but to set the story straight, the ecobee3 got its name because it was the third hardware model of thermostat released by ecobee (the ecobee Smart Si and EMS Si were more or less identical, with one targeting home owners and the other targeting commercial establishments). Here's a complete list of their thermostats:

• ecobee Smart Thermostat
  
• ecobee Smart Si & ecobee EMS Si
  
• ecobee3
  
• ecobee3 2nd generation with HomeKit support
  
• ecobee3 lite
  
• ecobee4
  

If you have ecobee4 you can simply ask Alexa:

"Alexa, ask ecobee to turn fan on" (Remember to have her turn the fan off too! )

"Alexa, ask ecobee to turn fan off"

​

If Alexa doesn't follow those commands make sure your ecobee is named "ecobee". You can check and change this in the Alexa app on your phone.

​

https://www.amazon.com/ecobee-Inc-plus/dp/B071672K2R

There is a list of commands at that link. You must have the ecobee plus skill enabled on alexa to do this. If you don't simply ask Alexa:

"Alexa, enable ecobee plus skill"

Alternatively, you can turn on the fan from the thermostat itself. It's nested under settings and "test equipment" This is why I suggested to just ask Alexa.

I have a heat only system as well. My old thermostat only used two wires. I called ecobee and we were trying to get 24v power to the ecobee. I ended up buying a transformer from Amazon and used the power from there.

External Transformer plug into power supply wires coming from this adapter connect to RC and C terminal and thermostat wire R wire to RH terminal and W wire w1 terminal.

This is the transformer I went with bc it woukd be easier for me.

MG ELECTRONICS MGT2420 TRANSFORMER,24VAC 20VA UL APPROVED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010GR07O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6YxeAbX9XCVRH

Ya, neither did mine, which is why I ran a full new 5-wire thermostat wire. I was able to just tie the new wire to the thermostat side of the old wire and then pull it down and through. I did have a couple staples to remove, but it worked out pretty well!

Hi...follow-up question on the same subject. previously I successfully setup an ecobee Tstat on a boiler that has T/T connections using a transformer and the relay. It is working fine with no problems. I would like to replace 2 other basic Tstats with Ecobees on the same boiler (3 zone boiler). I completely understand that they would each need their own relay, and that you are suggesting that 2 can run off the same transformer. Do you think the same transformer can run 3 ecobees? What, if any are factors that would affect this? This is the transformer I am using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HPJT7C0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Thanks in advance!

Is there any way you can just power it with a separate transformer like this one?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007N5LJK

That’s what I’m doing with two of my four ecobees and they’ve been great.

So the Ecobee most likely runs off of DC power. This will be supplied by a rectifier and a voltage regulator from the R terminal (24v AC from your HVAC equipment). 24v AC rectifies to about 35v DC. The ecobee will step this down to maybe 12 or 5v DC for use internally. So putting 24v DC on the R terminal should still work as expected, however it's not recommended as it's not a supported configuration. However, it shouldn't cause damage.

To answer your questions, get a 24v AC transformer and relay that accepts a 24v AC signal and capable of switching 1v DC. Your circuit diagram looks correct.

Looks like digikey does not have a wall transformer in stock. In short: the Ecobee needs ~4VA to run. Look for a transformer that can deliver at least 10va (or 10 watts) LockState Connect LS-24VAC 24 Vac Adaptor for LS-90i
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071IWJ7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hzAtybVP4AJ5X

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/phoenix-contact/2903337/277-10089-ND/4755341

Double check me that these meet requirements.

It looks like your best bet to power the Ecobee is to buy one of these or similar. It won't be the best cosmetic solution, but it will function well.

I think your problem is the C wire... per your comment you have RC/W/Y/G... you need a C.

If your unit has a C terminal but unused, you can use the adapter ecobee's include to make a 4 wire system work. If not, then you might need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511237224&sr=8-3&keywords=c++wire+adapter

in addition to the adapter ecobee includes to give you power. Then treat that as your C... I haven't personally done this, maybe someone here can give you more feedback.

Hi All, thanks for the help. I ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071IWJ7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works! This thing should be promoted and shame on ecobee if they don't because they have a sponsorship with fast-stat (which will not work for this system).

Looks like you have everything you need..should be able to use pek


Or you get one of these

24 Volt Transformer, C-Wire Power Adapter for Nest Honeywell Emerson Sensi, Nest Hello Skybell Smart WiFi Thermostat and Doorbell Power, 25 ft Cable by Fyve Global https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mshRDb7B8FXEX

Thank you for the response, @dapala1

​

Yes, the two black wires are from the 24V transformer C wire adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV

​

If I tape up the other black wire, the ecobee will not turn on. Should I try something different?

specifically it is this:

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-47-23117-02-SPST-N-C-A-R-Limit-85-Open-75-Close

​

SPST N/C A/R Limit (85 Open 75 Close) Specifications:

• Maximum Current Rating (A): 25
  
• Open Temperature: 85°F
  
• Tolerance Open Temperature (F): +/-3
  
• Close Temperature: 75°F
  
• Tolerance Close Temperature (F): +/-3
  
• Disc Face: Enclosed
  
• Mounting: Surface Mount
  
  ​
  
  for added bonus, here is your transformer:
  
  ​
  
  https://www.amazon.com/MARS-Motors-Armatures-50354-40VA/dp/B005D4UAGC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
  
  ​
  
  was kinda wondering where the extra input wires for your transformer wires were going. Only one set of inputs are needed, anything else would be kind of strange.

If you don't mind an external transformer near the thermostat, you can just buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV

The wires from the transformer go into Rc and C. Your current wires go into Rh and W. I did this for my parents. Works amazing.

Thank you so much. I was on and off the phone with ecobee earlier and they couldn't give me a straight answer.

I had already purchased this relay and have it ready to install.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000LESCI2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I will give it a shot later this evening. Thanks again.

Thanks for the info! The transformer I am using is this: https://www.amazon.com/Thermostat-Doorbell-Transformer-Compatible-Honeywell/dp/B07L9X9V57/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Thermostat+transformer&qid=1559249379&s=hi&sr=1-4


if I bypass (power only the ecobee I am fine, boot up no problem. I am certain the connections to the LG panel are not loose. I assume 40 VA should be sufficient?

Link to the skill.

Would be useful to put that in the post, /u/Mikey-A-.

I literally just had this issue, and fixed it two days ago.

So what kind of wire do you have at your existing thermostat? You're using two, but are there other wires present? If not, you're going to have to run a new thermostat wire like I did. Here's 50 ft of it from amazon.com

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026H8L7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once you have that run, you need to wire it up. You need to use three wires for a heat only application (I don't have central air, and it's controlling one zone on a oil fired boiler). The white, the red, and blue. I just cut the others, and wrapped them around for later use. Do you want the ecobee to control all zones at once? Or just one zone? I'm assuming you want it controlling only one zone.

The White and Blue (this will be your common) wires go to the yellow wires on either your zone valve (in my case) or a pump. Not sure of your configuration. I had one pump, and several zone valves. Others have several pumps. All depends on what you have.

Okay, so the red will be wired to your 24VAC supply from your transformer. I used wire nuts, and made it in parallel to the other devices. This is important. Use a multimeter to determine what your voltage is ( put it on ~V setting). If you have 120V going to your thermostat, you'll probably fry it.


Here's how I wired mine:

White- Yellow on your Zone Valve. This connection is only two wires. Your white, and one yellow.

Blue- Common. Other yellow on the same zone valve. It's AC so it doesn't matter which one you wire to which yellow, but your common is called common for a reason... every zone valve you have needs to be wired in parallel to each other with the blue, AS WELL AS the white from your 24vac transformer. I have three zones, so five wires total (one yellow from each valve, plus white from 24vac, plus blue from thermostat) are wire nutted together.

Red- 24VAC on transformer (the wire coming out of my transformer was black in color, but it should be red). This is the hot one.


That should do it. Let me know if you have any questions. This took me several hours of troubleshooting, and the internet was surprisingly not a lot of help. I'm sorry in advance if my technical writing skills aren't the best.

I didn't have a c wire at my thermostat, so I bought an adapter on Amazon for around $16. It simply plugs into a nearby outlet.

The one I used is https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV

It comes with installation instructions which are available on the Amazon page. There's also YouTube videos.

Thanks for taking the time to explain.
Yes, the Transformer is a wall plug with 24V DC output: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU240-0500/237-1459-ND/3094985
The Ecobee is turning on with 24VDC though which confuses me.

So, I'm thinking about ordering this fella which should do the trick, right: https://www.amazon.com/LockState-Connect-LS-24VAC-Adaptor-LS-90i/dp/B0071IWJ7G/

Edit: I would also need a AC relay then I guess, right? Guess I was just assuming DC in the entire circuit. Never did any AC electronics so far...

Edit 2: Just found this quote: "the incoming voltage to the ecobee interface unit is 24V AC (alternating current) but the power going to the thermostat is 12V DC" here https://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2010/11/product-review-ecobee-smart-thermostat/

Ecobee has been around since 2007. Their previous products include the original ecobee and the Smart SI. I guess you could call those the Ecobee 1 and 2.

As for any smart device dependent on the cloud, if ecobee were to suddenly go out of business and shutter their server, any kind of remote management functions would cease. No weather data on the thermostat, either. You'd still be able to program it from the thermostat itself only, since the ecobee has no embedded web server for the end user to access.

Yes this is what I did. You're going to need to run additional wires to your thermostat. There's no way around that. What I used is this 24V transformer and this 2 conductor thermostat wire. One end goes to the two power terminals on transformer (nothing gets connected to ground) and the other end goes to RC and C on the Ecobee. It doesn't matter which one is which since it's A/C voltage. Your already existing heating wires go to RH and W1.

step down transformer

Instructions from an Amazon reviewer:

• Connecting the transfer I did the following:
  
  
• 1 wire from transformer to Rc
  
  
• Other wire from transformer to C
  
  
• Nothing connected to transformer Ground
  
  
• The HVAC Red lead to Rh
  
  
• and the rest I connected to their proper colors.

I actually ended up getting it to work with this.