Hey so I'm popping up again to say this project is about to be underway. This issue wasn't the dryer as the breaker tripped even when nothing was plugged in and that outlet is the only thing on that circuit so my assumption is it's damaged along the way somewhere and shorting out.

My box is a Murray 120/240(I want to say it's older probably done around 1990 maybe a bit earlier as the house belonged to my grandparents and hasn't really been touched since they passed) also worth noting I'm in US just to be safe of any mixup

So my layout is the box is in my living room and needs to run about 8 feet down to the end of the room then go around a corner about four more feet and that's pretty much it. Thankfully the dryer is right on the other side of the wall so I'm assuming running this will be easy outside of not being too sure how to go around that corner as I read it's not favored to run the wire through the beams that need to handle more weight like those.(the current wire is ran under the house so I'm thinking I'll just follow the same path and go under just before that corner and pop back up. This will be my first time doing this so my plan is to get a 25ft 10-3 like you mentioned

(https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-63948421-SIMpull-residential-electrical/dp/B000BP7X8G/ref=pd_sbs_60_3/144-1273659-8829424?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000BP7X8G&pd_rd_r=7b013138-7aac-11e9-b2d1-7fb6059bc3dc&pd_rd_w=fxy3G&pd_rd_wg=7CBlc&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=0944KZAPC75SA49XQFHM&psc=1&refRID=0944KZAPC75SA49XQFHM) - This one

Then just staple it along the way, crawl under for that corner, pop it back up, and there we go. Does everything sound good there? My concerns are just pretty much making sure I have the right wire picked out, making sure I run it right and that it going under the house for that corner is okay, and making sure I know where to connect the neutral on the box(currently the neutrals and grounds are on the same bus bar together which I think is okay because it's the main panel.)

Any things I missed/might want to check beforehand? I'm planning to go ahead and wrap it all up this week and to be honest I'm looking forward to the project

You may have luck with an impact screw driver like this, but you may want to start by adding a small amount of penetrating lubricant like this. Safety is a big deal with a panel, so either have the meter removed while you work on it, or be extremely careful while you work. If the money isn't a huge issue it would be worth swaping that federal pacific panel out for something newer and more safe if possible. Best of luck to you.

Thank you, very helpful! Sounds like it may be best to charge from a standard 110 outlet at 3-4 miles per hour of charge, and swap out the dryer plug if I ever need some fast charging. Thanks for finding the name of the plug too, it was driving me crazy!

I'm a bit confused about "adapting from 10-30 to 14-50 is not allowed", wouldn't I be able to use something like this as an adapter? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VWGVQDF/ref=asc_df_B06VWGVQDF5012319/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B06VWGVQDF&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198064502357&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6825028765288310841&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060414&hvtargid=pla-319132250762

Thanks again for the help, really appreciate it.

Edit: With the adapter listed above, I would then buy two of these extension cords. That should work, right? https://www.amazon.com/NU-CORD-94561E-50-Feet-50-Amp-Extension/dp/B005GXQDHU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496441052&sr=8-2&keywords=nema+14-50+extension+cord

How much light do you need? Would the lampshade even fit in such a configuration?

FWIW, I have a pair of these bulbs which are pretty bright, possibly brighter than the 150W incandescent 3-way bulbs they replaced.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LMEQP6K

I have them in the pair of table lamps which are the only real light in my living room. Spent quite a bit of time to try and find options for brighter bulbs to fit in there, but 3-way LED bulbs don't come brighter, and brighter LED bulbs are too huge to fit in the lamp.

No way to know for sure without hooking it up to a load and using a DC clamp meter to measure the amperage. Keep in mind your average run-of-the-bill AC/DC multimeter with a clamp will not measure DC amps.

My experience with these has been mixed. Some brands work great others are nowhere near the rated amperage. Also, it's hard to find them with decent alligator clips, they're usually junk and fall apart easily. I can vouch for this one, had it a couple years and used it several times, including my wife's 5.7L Nissan SUV just yesterday, works great and the clips are pretty good.

I hate to be the debbie-downer, but a big part of the Bose sound is some very clever wizardry inside the box that no longer works --

They build their tiny speakers optimized for A) power handling, and B) minimal distortion, and usually end up with something that has quite odd frequency response.

Then they measure the transfer function of their little screech-box, and have their engineers build signal-processing to apply the inverse of the transfer function just before the amplifier stage in the central brain.

Along with some clever use of multiband compression using psychoacoustic tricks so that we hear impressive bass even though the actual electrical bass power to the speaker is limited, the end result is a speaker that measures and sounds like it has flat frequency response between say 50Hz and 18kHz, but only if the special brain is in the circuit in front of it.

r/audio has lots of people suggesting various low-cost "class-d" amplifiers, so if you want to try this anyway with something inexpensive you could get a bluetooth class-d or class-d amp with line-in and a cable to connect your phone to it -- just connect the stripped wires of the two leftish speakers to the "left" black and red "speaker" terminals and likewise with those on the right.

The writing on the wire is the maximum rating of the wire. Parts of Europe use 240 v as the standard mains voltage while North America and other places use 120 v. The heater was made with the 300 v cable as it could then ship anywhere and the manufacturer put the plug on at the last minute once they knew where it was going to be shipped.

The standard is 120 volts average, but the actual voltage out of the wall varies a little bit. The plug is rated to 125 volts so it doesn't burn out when the voltage drifts a little above 120 v. There are additional safety factors on top the 125 v rating as well.

A 125 volt plug is fine. Just make sure the plug can handle the wattage of the heater. Your heater is a 1500 w device, which is on the upper end of what you will find for a residential device and not all replacement plugs are rated the 1500 watts. Any 125 v 15 amp plug with a ground will work.

This is first listing on amazon. There are bajillion places to get them though.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-515PR-Straight-Blade-Rubber/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1550644370&sr=8-5&keywords=replacement+electrical+plug

I put one in my living room for the TV a few years ago. I'm pretty sure I put it in a standard box. Maybe more like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Midlite-MDT4642W-Single-Gang-Decor-Recessed/dp/B002XDQAA6/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C1HVSTSPE9PSYE5ZTKQE

They also sell outdoor ones: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B003ATXIBG/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C1HVSTSPE9PSYE5ZTKQE

Edit: oops, looks like u/cryo_burned beat me to it.

Let me explain more clearly.

1. Electrician has installed a 20 amp dedicated circuit being fed by 12/2.
   
   
2. Electrician has installed a dummy run 12/2 from an outlet next to the above.
   
   
3. I am planning on using the following inlet for #2 which will draw it's power from #1. This is rated 15amp MIDLITE 4642-W Single Gang Décor Recessed Power Inlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XDQAA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ey0IDbH7GWTDF
   
   Will I have an issue in the above situation?
   
   Additionally, if I was doing a similar situation like the above but with the only change being #2 above uses a 14/2. As in it is powered by a 20amp dedicated circuit but the power inlet is 15amp and the wire from the inlet is 14/2. Should I swap out the wire and use 12/2?

If you're comfortable splicing some electrical wires, look into the Sonoff smart switches. They're relatively cheap (~$6) and great for controlling lights/small low current electronics. https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Electrical-Household-Appliances-Compatible/dp/B0773DFQJ9

If you are buying parts...
12v wall power supply w adapter for 3 pin fans (2)

CRJ DC Power Supply for 2 x 3/4-Pin 12V Computer PC Case Fans
link:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FNN9W7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fk33Cb5JSB898

$10 no soldering or bare wires. Supports 2 fans

May also be cheaper ones, or if you have a similar 12v wall power supply, may be able to get just cord adapter.

Good luck

ok, need final word from all contributing posters - looking for consensus on which is safer for 900 watt microwave with nothing else plugged in. I own the two protectors listed below - which is best so I don't have to buy anything further.

this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AAHT8AQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or

this which had a picture of a microwave and other appliances on the box Ace Hardware:

Monster Cable Just Power It Up 540 J 4 ft. L 6 outlets Surge Protector

Item no. 3508678 | 6OUTSRGBLK

or

own this appliance cord Ace Hardware:

Ace 120 volt 9 ft. L Appliance Cord 12/3 SPT-3

Item no. 30181 | 1AC-004-009FBG

If the switch is rated for 120V and the requisite number of amps, and it's used with a proper enclosure, and it's assembled correctly, it's technically safe. However, even with all that, you probably void your Christmas lights' UL certification by modifying them. This may in turn invalidate your home insurance policy.

I would rather see you use a pre-built product like this or this or a timer or even a wireless switch.

There should be no issues. I was just looking into this myself and I found these guys at Amazon for a pretty good price:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3PMU4C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

It's Emerson 24A06G-1 Dual Level-Temp for Electric Heat , which has 2 switches as shown in my picture. The left switch doesn't have click sound hence is "sticking"; the right switch has normal click sound.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QW2DRP0/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_i_eHAyCbSTQFNTC

Its manual is here: https://climate.emerson.com/documents/24a06g-1-instructions-en-us-4289064.pdf

​

I have 2 Cadet baseboard heaters (which heats non-stoppingly due to the left sticking switch) in the main area of living room and 1 baseboard heater (which still obeys thermostat, hence I believe attaches to the right good switch) in the corner of the living room.

​

I don't know if I have to spend $128 to buy the same exact 24A06G. I don't have cooling appliance, I don't mind to control the 3 heaters all together under 1 switch.

What should I do, please?

More illustration

I would put a GFCI in the wall where you plan to plug this in. Then, get a standard sized outlet, but one that has the two USB ports and is Tamper resistant. Like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZhD5Bb0TBC6NZ

Or you could go for the straight 4x USB. The call is up to you. Having a standard receptical means you can upgrade or switch as your needs change.

Edit, forgot the box. Get a metal, gangable box for use with NM/Romex. You can also get a metal, old work for use with NM/Romex and just take off (or even use) the old work clamps. Sorry I can't link it now. But you'll see why it will work. Just wrap the ground from your extension around the wire, then go to the receptical.

https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Electric-EC123T-L5-20P-Electrical/dp/B07G2KX2JG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=9+ft+12+awg&qid=1551031357&s=lamps-light&sr=1-2

Would \^\^ this work? The refrigerator "must be plugged into its own dedicated 115 volt, 60 hz, 15 amp AC only electrical outlet.

​

Or this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OQVGP0/ref=psdc_495312_t2_B002S9J5I4

​

The tag inside says: 6.0 amps , 115 volts, 60 hertz

Something like this in your ceiling?
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B003ATXIBG/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1468333722&sr=1-13&keywords=Electrical+male+inlet

Okay looking into it some more, I think you’ll be fine daisy-chaining. The bridge plate on a 15A receptacle should be able to handle that.

In home wiring there can be tails wire-nutted in each junction box so one receptacle can be removed without breaking the circuit.

I’m not sure if there would be an issue using stranded wire in the outlet screw terminals. What I would make sure of is that your cord is anchored in some way, so pulling on the extension cord isn’t putting force directly on the screw terminals.

Again, if you search for power inlet receptacle like so , you can avoid that whole male cord issue.

Replacement plug

What happens is that you have an exposed electrical shock/short/fire hazard. As an alternative you could wire a short male cable to your workbench, or even install a power inlet: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Straight-Flanged-Receptacle/dp/B003ATXIBG