(Part 2) Best products from r/electricians

Knipex for Lineman's pliers: (with or without crimper). Their grip and cutting edge are significantly better than any other brand I've tried.

Wera for screwdrivers: I recommend the XXL 3 set. For sale here.

I still like Klein for strippers. I use the Kurve everyday and the Katapult for wire with thick insulation like PV wire.

Fluke for your meter. Most people recommend the T5 for basic stuff, but the 323 has a proper clamp and removable leads for the same price.

Knipex Cobras for your channel lock style pliers. These are absurdly good and have saved my ass a couple times.

I also recommend buying a Knipex Pliers Wrench. I own a 7-inch and a 10-inch pair and they're way better than a traditional adjustable wrench.

Stanley newest Leverlock tape measures are just as good as Milwaukee's tape and less bulky for half the price.

Milwaukee's Fastback series are the best utility knives by a pretty wide margin. I use the compact one, but that's a matter a preference.

I have the Compact Milwaukee and am not a fan; the blade comes loose all the time, especially when doing things like cutting drywall or removing wire insulation. I have used the Fastback Milwaukee though with good results, it’s just a lot bigger and doesn’t feel as good in the hands. I’ve owned 1 of the Compact, 0 of the Fastback.

The Klein pocket knife looking one is garbage for doing actual work with. I’ve owned 1 of these.

I have a SOG Flash 2 w/ serrations that I love but it’s my EDC and doesn’t live in my tool bag. Super sharp and the serrations slice though sheathing like hot butter. I’ve owned 4 of these.

I have a smaller one, a skelotonized Gerber w/ Lenox blades that I love as well. That one does live in my tool bag and is used all the time. The Lenox gold blades are amazing. I’ve owned 1 of these.

Milwaukee Compact

Milwaukee Fastback

Klein Electricians Knife

Sog Flash II

Gerber EAB Lite

Klein Tools 92906 ProPack 6 Apprentice Tool Set for Trade Professionals (6-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qm5EAbQVA3JFH

That’s a good deal. It has lineman pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, wire strippers, and flat/ Phillips screwdrivers.

Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Cushion Grip Handle, Industrial Strength Bits Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yp5EAbSKE4D2A

This is a good all purpose screwdriver to carry around

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq5EAbTTZ8GYW

This is a non contact voltage tester and it might just save you some pain/your life

Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr5EAbWNKDP5C

You should probably get 2 pairs of these. It’ll help you twist on couplings and stuff

Stanley 33-725 25-Feet FatMax Tape Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002PV66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xs5EAbGVWXZDV

A lot of people like these tape measures for their larger claws

Klein Tools 98002BT Bottle Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4u5EAb52FZ742

This will help for when you go home

I'm not an electrician but an EE, so an electrician can comment on the physical side of things- but from the spec side:

6000 W at 120V is 50 amps. You want to stay below 80% threshold so two 30A breakers would be 48 amps. It's a little over spec, and it wouldn't pass code here in WA but you'd "probably" be fine. However, if you're using 30 amp breakers you'll need 10 gauge wire, which is normally not run in 120V (it's usually 220). Typically you'd run 12/2 or 12/3 romex on 20 amp breakers. If you're running that much line, it's probably cheaper/easier to run a higher gauge (like 6 AWG) and put a subpanel in the room you can split out in 20 amp breakers. You'd have to just ask them price wise to spec it out both ways and see.

As for a "meter" you can definitely have an electrician install on (especially if you get a subpanel), but you're probably more looking for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Equipment/dp/B07M8JKLG5

That said (and a big "don't do any of this if you're not comfortable") it's really easy to run wire. The actual wiring at the panel/subpanel and the outlets can be a little trickier if you're not familiar, but running the wire itself is just "grunt" work. Make sure you secure it every 4ish feet, within 6 inches of the outlet, and put nail plates if it's within 1.25" of the outside edge of wood.

Edit: Assuming you have access to a crawlspace/can open walls. Running wire through closed walls/spaces fucking sucks and I don't wish it on anyone.

The easiest solution for you would be to install a receptacle post similar to this one. I can't vouch for that exact model, but I will say Arlington makes reliable and well known products.

Run properly sized UF cable inside the conduit to that post and hook it to a GFCI protected receptacle. Plug the fountain into that and close the cover.

If you GFCI protect the whole cable before it goes underground to the post, then you only need to bury it 12" deep.

>...And my neighbor doesn't want an outside outlet installed near her pond....

Edit: Didn't see that. Unfortunately, there's nothing you can do. The neighbor is literally saying "I don't want this to be wired safely and legally."

That's 8 gauge wire and I'm guessing there is a 30 or 40 amp dual pole breaker on the other side of that conduit. One of those wires is a neutral, which really should be white, not black. Also, it looks like you have non metallic conduit sticking out of the ground, so you don't have a ground out there either.

If it were me, I'd pull all of that 8 gauge out (remember to use it to pull a pull string or the replacement wire so you don't have to break out fish tape) and put in something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Gard-N-Post-Low-Profile-Landscape-Enclosure-19-5-Inch/dp/B003O85DEI

with an outdoor rated GFCI outlet. You will run 3 wires back to it (depending on distance you might need #10 thhn, you can go with #10 to be safe, but #12 might be ok if it's not too long). A white (neutral), a black (hot), and a green (ground). This will go to a new 20 amp breaker in your panel that will take half the space of your current dual pole breaker.

This is kinda beyond the DIY phase of things, especially if you don't know already how to identify the neutral out of the three of those conductors. Also, working on an energized load center is not a good idea for a DIYer. If you have a main disconnect at your meter and can turn off your house, that's the best option. If it has to be worked on hot (or you can always have the utility come and pull your meter out) then you really should have someone who knows what they are doing do this.

Went from Timberlands to Chipewa's to Redwings and then landed on Thorogoods.

I love my Thorogoods. Easy break-in, longer lasting soles and look just as good as my Redwings. Still made in America. All at $100 cheaper. Easily my go to work boot now.

https://www.amazon.com/Thorogood-814-4200-Moc-Toe-Boot/dp/B001QJ4I5C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494384706&sr=8-1&keywords=thorogood+boots

They have safety toe versions too:
https://www.amazon.com/Thorogood-American-Heritage-804-4200-Steel-Toe/dp/B00566F76U/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1494384706&sr=8-10&keywords=thorogood+boots

Thin wool gloves, something like this https://www.amazon.com/EvridWear-Unisex-Smartphone-Texting-Mittens/dp/B077DYP62N/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=merino+wool+gloves&qid=1570779320&sr=8-6
then a thin leather glove on top for any kind of work that will rip the merino gloves, https://www.amazon.com/OZERO-Leather-Stretchable-Cowhide-Working/dp/B01LPRW9TG/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_rm?ac_md=1-1-bGVhdGhlciBnbG92ZXM%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=thin+leather+gloves&pd_rd_i=B01LPRW9TG&pd_rd_r=307b6341-0a19-47cc-bc8f-938bfd24933c&pd_rd_w=qAKYt&pd_rd_wg=wlxS9&pf_rd_p=983984df-2ad2-4c97-ba7f-4c5a90291c2b&pf_rd_r=KY69HBZ9CM70CNC93GCP&psc=1&qid=1570779384

this system works better then bulky gloves as when you need to work with small parts you can take off the leather and toss them in your jacket, while the thin wool gloves still keep your hands warm.

if he just wants something to warm his hands up in between not wearing gloves then Milwaukee has some awesome heated gloves.

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Work-Gear/Gloves/Heated-Gloves/USB%20Rechargeable%20Heated%20Gloves

Couple thoughts. Is there maybe a problem with wiring? I would get one of these and try all the plugs to see if you have an issue like a bad ground. There are others that look like this one, but most will not give you as good of a test. Sperry Receptacle Tester ($8) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_hg-rDb7HMV8WX

For a good whole house protection from a unit like the Square D HEPD80, its common to run into issues with placement. I like using the EATON CHSPT2ULTRA, but similar specs. Its a little more difficult, but I have run them outside directly through the back of the breaker panel to a small metal wall box on the outside. Little more work, but this keeps the leads short (important) and even lets me check on the surge protector LEDs very easily). They normally have something like this at HD/Lowes - here is something similar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T5BRO4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_tr-rDbAYB73ZJ

Thank you for the response ithinarine!

>You normally don't get that kind of melting except for when the connections to the plug are loose. When you install a new one, make sure your wires are tightening down very well.

The connections were wrapped around the screw on the receptacles very tightly, there was no wiggle room

>Also, 1580W continuous load on a 15A circuit that only has a maximum of 1800W available is a HUGE continuous load for a 15A circuit.

Right, I am only using that 15a circuit only for this one purpose. And it has worked for months (Jan - April) of this year without a problem on a different receptacle.


Like I said the only difference this time around where the melting occured is when I decided to use a different receptacle and using a Belkin Wemo Insight smart plug to monitor the watt usage



Here is a video of my prying off the melted smart plug from Belkin Wemo Insight from off of my receptacle



Anyway, I plan to use this receptacle instead next time instead of this one that I used before


Should this help my cause?

Do I recommend these products specifically? No, use your own mind to pick what's best for you.

These are a starting place for your search. these products have descriptions you can use to find what you need.

I'm not advertising products, I'm supplying links so that the specific search terms are provided :)

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If you're willing to make your own, use something like these:

cable -you can get in 14, 16, 18 AWG, 14 is larger, 18 is smaller.

you can use terms like "speaker wire" or "lamp cord/wire" to find this style of wire

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWYXFO/ref=emc_b_5_t

male end

https://www.amazon.com/Ancable-4-Pack-Instrument-Speaker-Microphone/dp/B071H37GNS/

female end -this was hard to find

https://www.amazon.com/CESS-Female-Connector-Microphone-Guitar/dp/B07FNWH67R

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need a coupler?

female https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Coupler-Female-Adapter/dp/B000THM3KY/

male https://www.amazon.com/TEZONG-Coupler-Straight-Connector-Pedalboard/dp/B07JLVXC66/

Thank you to everyone! Yes, this must be it!

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One additional question; after looking some of these up it seems as though they make LED lights that will work with a CFL 4-pin (https://www.amazon.com/Bonlux-Rotatable-Fluorescent-Replacement-Horizontal/dp/B01JC4MS8G/). But often they include (as a feature?) not requiring a ballast, or they suggest 'bypassing' it altogether?

​

I think I understand that the ballast gives a strong initial voltage to start the arc, and then decreases appropriately over time? Does that sound right? So, if I understand correctly, LED lights clearly wouldn't need that extra bit of analog juice to start things up.

​

Question is: is the ballast in the bulb? Or the socket? Can I even 'bypass' it, as it hints at product description of the LED light? Or should I just keep it simple and get some of the normal twirly CFLs?

Why do you need a 200A service? If you need more spaces for circuits, just get a panel rated according to the wire that is coming in from the service, but with more spaces than the one you have now. Unless you are adding something that takes a lot of juice, you can almost certainly keep the service size you have now and increase the number of circuits that are on it. That will save you a bunch of money. And it is possible to do without permits, though I really wouldn't encourage you to try.

Here's a 30 Circuit 125A Panel (there are probably others. This was the first one I could find):

http://www.amazon.com/Siemens-P3030B1125CU-Circuit-Indoor-Breaker/dp/B0088KONIO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_4

You need to double check the ampacity of the service wires before this is a good solution. Your existing panel has a split bus and a total of 20 circuits. The siemens panel above would give you another 10 circuits.

So why do you need the 200A service?

I went with Siemens because they support 2 pole afci when I did my FPE panel replacement. Buy the panel online (best price) and get the breakers at home depot or lowes with a 10% off movers coupons. If doing a replacement more spaces is usually better.

Make sure the panel is sized correctly as well. The quick and dirty panel sizing guide is a 2" pipe supports 200 amps; 1 1/2" is 150 amps; ect... make sure you have a big enough pipe for the panel. Same goes for the wire for the mains; make sure the AWG is correct.

I recently re-ordered these. I tend to open them up and read them, but ultimately I end up using the conduit bending one most. They'd make a great gift and low-cost.

Just my personal opinions. Learn how to use the Ohms Law Computation Wheel:

http://ohmlaw.com/ohms-law-wheel/

Purchase an Ugly's Electrical Reference, and read it:

https://www.amazon.com/Uglys-Electrical-References-Bartlett-Learning/dp/128411936X

Purchase some GOOD tools.

Learn to bend conduit:

https://dengarden.com/home-improvement/EMT-Electrical-Conduit-Pipe-Bending-Instructions-a-Conduit-Bending-Guide-for-Beginning-Electricians

Learn the NEC.

Listen, observe, anticipate. Don't back stab. Be motivated and have a good work ethic.

Thanks for this reply. I do know that inverters are designed to handle the surge, but I'd like to get around it entirely with some tinkering if possible. I don't like throwing brute force at a problem when a simpler, more elegant solution is available, but simply not built into the appliance by the manufacturer. (Usually if it's too heavy or bulky to ship, a manufacturer will slim it down, and then I'll have to retrofit it at home: more refrigerator insulation, heavier flywheel on disk sander, etc.)

I have very low power needs at my home (less than 1kWh/day) and have no problem running only one power hog at a time. I like to design pedal power into an appliance when I can (bandsaw and lathe with heavy flywheels, washing machine spin cycle) but I'm interested in this problem of the surge power anyway. If it's as simple as spinning up the motor with a ripcord and then turning it on the next moment, that would be really interesting to know.

I'm going to probably buy this Xantrex.

Someone gave me the SOG Kilowatt, it's ok. Definitely not great on the job, and the shape of the belt clip causes it to get caught on things often. I would stay away from it. Klein makes some novelty stuff that make good gifts like this [bbq set] (http://www.amazon.com/Klein-98222-BBQ-Tool-Set/dp/B000G0ZTCS) or [bottle opener] (http://www.amazon.com/Klein-98002BT-Bottle-Opener/dp/B00093GENU/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1FP0ARYFHQP91TDA1AMQ)

You can get a Square-D 6-circuit sub-panel for around $35 on Amazon. I use them all the time. They're rated for 100A, but you decide on what to use for a main breaker 9you actually don't have to use a main breaker if the circuit is already protected at the source)

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00002N7MO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Get one of these, too:

https://www.amazon.ca/Square-Schneider-Electric-PK7GTACP-Terminal/dp/B002FQKSKO/ref=pd_sbs_60_5/134-0439302-1691058?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002FQKSKO&pd_rd_r=87334786-2966-418d-a1a8-b154b3bbe38a&pd_rd_w=4XQpF&pd_rd_wg=KOEDe&pf_rd_p=0602d3b5-e536-4dc4-9e55-dd650b3d14d4&pf_rd_r=RX2M5PMDM7TPY0W10T6M&psc=1&refRID=RX2M5PMDM7TPY0W10T6M

Super green, 0 hours IBEW Inside Wireman apprentice. This is what I've got to show up with for my first day. I have an Occidental Leather Adjust to Fit 9596 tool belt and Stronghold Light 1546 suspenders in the mail, as well as a Custom Leathercraft Tool Box , Thorogood American Heritage Emperor Toe Wedge work boots , and maxiflex cut resistant gloves . I'm still undecided as to which tester/multimeter to get. Am I good to show up to work with what I've got? Am I missing anything critical?

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Reposted to get image thumbnail

I have been wearing the Industrial Electricians belt from Occidental for a year now, it is very comfortable. I got mine on Amazon in the used section, it wasn't touched and still had the tags on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0097EOXBC/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Took me a couple years to finally fork over the cash for these but you wont have to worry about buying another set for at least a decade and they are badass http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005Z5BFYU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1425828468&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=occidental+electricians+tool+belt&dpPl=1&dpID=41TPr9NrCRL&ref=plSrch

If you're going to be in heavy commercial then I like these I have them and really like them. Some other guys I work with have the Klien ones from Home Depot or these They are really expensive but will last 5+ years

It's not really all that "wrong", though. The important thing to do with this one is to isolate the neutrals. Get a ground bus bar and move all the bare copper grounds to that. Leave the incoming and outgoing neutrals on the screw terminals on the far left of the disconnect. You have an unused 20-amp circuit in there - the bottom screw of the left fuse. You can get power for your receptacles from there. Use 12 AWG wire for the new receptacles (aka plug or outlets). The white neutral for the new receptacles would go under one of the neutral screws (one wire per screw, unless the disconnect's label says you can have 2 wires under each screw), and the bare ground would go onto your new bus bar.

Now, check the fuse in the middle of the disconnect (the one with the yellow price tag), and check the white Romex cable coming out of the top of the disconnect. The Romex is probably 14 AWG, and labeled something like "14-2 w/ground". If so, make sure that middle fuse is a 15-amp fuse. The left fuse is a 20-amp fuse, which requires larger (12 AWG) wire. 20 amps is enough to overheat 14 AWG wire and possibly start a fire.

While you're at it, double-check the breaker on the main panel that feeds this disconnect, and check the size of the gray UF wire feeding it. It looks like 10 AWG UF (10-2 w/ground). If so, make sure the breaker feeding it is a 30-amp (or less) breaker. Personally, I'd put a 20-amp breaker in front of this - if there's an overload, the entire underground feeder is more protected, and flipping a breaker is a lot cheaper than replacing a $5 fuse.

Something like this?

can't go wrong with this

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.ca/KLEIN-TOOLS-98002BT-Bottle-Opener/dp/B00093GENU&ved=2ahUKEwjZ77LtvNbkAhXKrJ4KHfC4BM0QFjABegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw1wg7YzZwdrpSQz91hFFeAq

This is the usual standby, I think: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-98002BT-Bottle-Opener/dp/B00093GENU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419018788&sr=8-1&keywords=klein+bottle+opener

If he doesn't have one already.

https://www.amazon.ca/Uglys-Electric-Motors-Controls-2017/dp/1284119424/ref=pd_aw_fbt_14_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KX55HAHVG3W9EM5RYCHF

This is probably what you're looking for.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/128411936X/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A12UFBL1JPT2UF&psc=1

This one covers everything though.

This has come in handy more than a few times...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0041FIR1E/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1416195164&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

And my everyday carry Kershaw knife.......http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AU6NWP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1416195515&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Off the job...... http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-98002BT-Bottle-Opener/dp/B00093GENU

[$7.34] (Klein Bottle Opener Klein Tools 98002BT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hUciDbS0SX6DC)

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Z5BFYU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1425828468&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=occidental+electricians+tool+belt&dpPl=1&dpID=41TPr9NrCRL&ref=plSrch

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Actually... it kind of does

https://www.amazon.com/Uglys-Electrical-References-Bartlett-Learning/dp/128411936X