Best products from r/enail

Man, id be nervous myself, the problem isn’t just tipping, its the fact that almost every way it can fall leaves the nail on a surface it can likely burn, unless it’s a basement shop or something with only concrete or metal, and only concrete under metal as it could potentially catch wood underneath on fire, (or, obviously, carpet etc is hopeless), since even wood will instantly ignite @ 700 F, and as low as 450-500 F it can char and ignite, meaning even it you stay low temp it’s a real possibility if unattended. Also, u are probably aware but the readout temps are usually the coil temp, not the dish temp, and a laser thermometer confirms usually a 1-200* F drop (especially if a flat coil, idk if they don’t do well w extended on cycles), as i’ll leave it on 2-5 hours per session generally, but a d-nail and a shatter box nail have both gone from flat to.. well, uneven, with half or less directly touching the dish. My D-Nail is a SiC (Silicon Carbide) Dish / dome-less nail, with sapphire insert ring for clean flavor (works but, SiC >>>>>> Ti by far), and the sapphire is overkill unless u love low temps n a lotta terps, and dislike the SiC somehow anyway lolz. It does heat even + well, and im a sorta low-mid temper, so w that nail, for 550-600, the coilm can be 800...

All that to say, it gonna burn if it should ever fall when i’m out or asleep. The thing about dabbing is, especially if ur in a legal state and start facing 1/8-1/4 g dabs, especially indicas, u can catch a nod like ur on some dope for real.

So.. it’s surprisingly easy to get complacent. If there’s a chance ull sleep, u shouldn’t keep it on.. but since nobody plans to accidentally pass out, thats hard, next best is to make sure it’s somewhere stable, and where a fall would be loud - so u may wake up, if it does. That probably wont happen if u cant reach it in ur sleep and don’t have animals , namely a cat. Many do though. And a cat can not touch for years, decide its a toy one day and.. whoosh fire.



~ IMO, there’s essentially 3-4 things you can do to really gain piece of mind ~

• Buy a Wyze cam, preferably a pan cam, off amazon for ~$35, or $25 fixed. Wyze allows internet access of ur cam from anywhere, given they’re on ur wifi, to see if all is good. Works better with at least item #2
  
  
• Buy a smart plug - if you have amazon echo or google home, or any IFTTT compatible
  smart home framework especially, though the plug. wifi, and an app do the trick. Even this alone helps, but w/ the Pan Cam especially, if it goes through something like a TP Link smart outlet, you can kill its power, and see the current state if, say, you rush out and realize it may be on. By default, some can program an automatic shut off, or, you can code it for IFTTT w some free time. This one will do it without coding:
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JB5TQSG?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=3S616T5WWZFE9984M4GS
  
  
• Buy a widow sensor, smallest possible, or some similar if you can find it. You could, say for Alexa, create a skill, or just do for it yourself w IFTTT. Arduinos and Raspberry Pis are both also capable if u can code, and probably theres an NFC-based sensor. Would work best w some sorta input, whether vocal to alexa “Alexa. Dab Time Say Word” to which alexa confirms word and ignores the sensor for say 2 min. Of course part would have to be on the rig, but find a tiny one - like they use at stores for anti theft, say, and that’s easy., The rest should be obvious - if the sensors link breaks without initiating the “dab cooldown”, it’ll also turn off the power.
  
  This kit has them, and as well a motion sensor - i don’t like that as much, but a good one, well placed, wont miss a fall. All this depends on the rig having a home spot
  
  
• Finally, the easiest but priciest option , unless you count echo shows as part above anyway: Just get a Dr Dabber Switch.
  
  I know $400 or whatever ur price is ain’t cheap, but its not much diff than earlier Dr Dabber stuff not 1/4 as good. And I know enails are fun and easy, so enjoy safely.
  
  But if u get sick of double checking, or u find urself fallin asleep, etc., imo don’t risk it. The Switch heats in seconds and gives strong dabs. Plus, it’s easier to travel w than an enail. And the worst u can do is break the replaceable glass, not burn a house.
  
  Switch:
  https://www.drdabber.com/products/switch-free-perc
  
  Do all that.. or even the smart plug n the switch or even cam, and shut off w motion detection.. and it’s safe, easy.
  
  The plug alone.. it saves worrying if u rush out and forget if i killed it, since u just look and see status.

1. That's fairly cheap you can find some china models on dhgate that could help you get there. If you want to deal with Auber there is http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=45&products_id=484 for 170$ they have a flat coil and nail.
   
   I can't speak for their nail; but the controller and coil is rock solid. Then you just need an atomizer (nail) to finish it off such as a D-Nail SiC Halo or an CCA Banger. You can get a 20mm coil and then get a quartz banger if you prefer that route.
   
   That controller (The RDK-300A) will handle D-Nail coils as well as Auber coils so there's no unique pinout to burn you later (like high5 does)
   
   
2. If you want to read the nail surface you need a k-type thermocouple that can handle the head. So you will need something that can give you results from the probes; so this is a pretty good device https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GFHYA8/ ... here are some probes I have used that work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083SZC6S/
   
   
3. Get a good controller; then get the nail you want. You are free to change your mind in the future that's the joy of a controller that you can get another coil for incase you want something different.
   
   Take it slow and it might take a few paydays or months to get everything sorted the way you want.
   
   140-170 outlay for the controller with a nail is small; then you can step up after a few paydays and you know better what you want next.
   

Each wall, bottom and top was separately printed then glued with an epoxy. This was made with 6 separate prints using PLA plastics. Total print time was about 6 1/2 hours.

I used parts that I had from my last enail project over a year ago. I know there are superior connectors (XLR), however I haven't had any issues with these in over a year.

I went ahead and shared the model files here if you wish to start printing your own. Included are the STL models for slicing and Sketchup models if you want to modify your own.

List of parts used with this particular 3d model.

• 40A SSR Solid State Relay
  
• SOCKET,STD DIN,FEMALE,5PIN,PANEL MOUNT (Outlet)
  
• Dual Digital Display PID Temperature Controller (PID Controller)
  
• AC 15A/250V 20A/125V 3 Pin 2 Position ON/OFF Switch (Rocker Switch)
  
• Interpower 8301213 IEC 60320 C14 Power Inlet with Quick Disconnects (120VAC Power Outlet)
  
• Rean NYS322 5 Pin DIN Plug
  
  
  I suppose I will model different versions for different pid face plates and outlets as time goes on. Hopefully others will modify and share their version.
  
  Feedback suggestions are always welcome.
  
  Special thanks to /u/j4yt3x for his DIY write up.

Thanks for all the advice.

The ceramic enhale combo looks great, I've shot over a message to them to check they have 230v coils, international shipping is available for a reasonable £6.39!

Part | Cost
---|---
PID | £18.99 | |
SSR | £3.88 | |
Enclosure 150 x 100 x 60mm | £6.90 | |
XLR Female | £10.79 | |
16 AWG Wire 2x3m Red and Black | £5.97 | |
Rocker Switch | £1.69 | |
Power Socket | £2.68 | |
Power Cable | £2.00 | |
ENHALE Coil w/ Ceramic Female Nail | £57.51 | |
Total | £110.42

That's my new part list so far saving £55.98, nice!

Will this PID also work fine? I'm really looking to build a nice sleak unit if I can.

> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q9EFUK/ref=pd_aw_sim_e_2?refRID=0AN8QNQ5T2SWPG1CW0E0

Wow this looks perfect, the light sensor is ideal, usually im dabbin with the lights on lol

all machines are made of components manufactured in asia. The issue is in the assembler, and their quality control testing. This one is assembled in china. The problem I see is that while an american company can quality control their goods by plugging it into the wall and letting it run for an amount of time, china tipcally has 220v 50 hz electricity (ours is 110 v 60 hz). So there is going to be a problem with testing the units designed for the american market. (not a big problem, the PID shodul be fine on either electricity, but you never know....)

In my experience with Chinese made components from bulk suppliers, there is a 10% failure rate within the first day of use (considered DOA). There are only really 3 things that can go wrong inside due to their complex nature, a PID, the coil assembly, and the relay device (much less likely, but I've had it happen in other fields). With a 10% chance of each failing, it's a 74% chance your unit will be fine (my math might be off, help here if you know satistics better than I do). If your unit is NOT fine, you can easily order replacement parts on amazon.com

Save the money, and use the cheap stuff, be prepared to repair it with spare parts by having these links ready to go

For the PID: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGL4KG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1BREQ8I6OHSBG

For the SSR:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HZN628/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3NSJ1JIMWS963.

for the coil.... thats still goign to be a problem, as they are all made in china, but, I think enhale.com might be a good course for coils.

AmazonBasics Silicone Baking Mat Sheet, Set of 2 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0725GYNG6/

I just bought 2 of these and they work great. Lots of my terpine sauce drips on the map and you can easily scrape it off later to get a big dab :)

Thanks for the information, I'm actually pretty well versed in how they work, I've built a few digital ones for friends in the past but I don't like using plastic housings and metal is a bitch to work with so they always get scratched to hell as I don't have the proper tools to cut nice holes/squares in metal, do you know of any pre-drilled/cut cases that i can slap the pieces together in?

Also by variable resistor are you saying I could i just wire up a potentiometer in line to a power cord that's just wired up to the power leads of an XLR connection? I would have to worry about whether the pot can handle mains voltage, right?

​

Because if something like This would work I can just throw that into a small casing and only have to drill holes, that would be ideal

​

Sorry if this is a lot of questions, I have seen the lutron dimmer analog nail build but I would ideally like something that looks a little nicer and is made mostly of metal

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q9EFUK/ref=pd_aw_sim_e_2?refRID=0AN8QNQ5T2SWPG1CW0E0


(Choose the 3 outlet version + light sensor)

This one is great, I use it to turn on my E-Nail and NES, has variable timed shutoff, and an awesome wireless remote

Thanks for the rec, this z series 10A looks perfect and is covered by the lifetime warranty.

I picked this up & checked off a few personal requirements in 1 device: IR, Voltage tester & runs on 2 AAA batteries, so I'm never stuck waiting for a battery to charge, which is major IMO.

It's IP54 resistant, as well, which is an added bonus when the batteries are actually still removable.. unlike most of today's Planned Obsolescence ridden mobile phones.

Pretty confident after doing some tests that the ssr is bad. I’m gonna take the ssr outta my press plates pid to verify. Anyway I’m still gonna up the build. You mentioned a fuse. With the build that has the switches & the ports I was wondering if I could swap the switch & the 110 port out for this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B6JV52J/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ASEJC7VJUGCU9&psc=1

Would this piece even work with the build?
It has a 10 a fuse in it. Would that be a big enough fuse?

This is the coil I ordered off amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177DETRC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And yes, I am using the slim base. I am also using the dnail carb cap

could it be that i should have bought http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Display-Temperature-Controller-Alarms/dp/B005NGL4KG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376442730&sr=8-1&keywords=mypin+ta4

instead of
http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Temperature-Controller-TA4-SNaRWith-alarm/dp/B00BVWYHVO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406390962&sr=8-4&keywords=mypin+ta4

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q9EFUK/ref=pd_aw_sim_e_2?refRID=0AN8QNQ5T2SWPG1CW0E0

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

The issue with those temp guns is that they are garbage for any kind of reflective surface, even with adjusted emissivity.

If you want to know the REAL dish temperature, i suggest you get a contact thermocouple and sit it directly in the bottom of the dish, touching it. You'll get a MUCH more accurate read. My emissivity adjusted temp gun reads about 75 degrees out (higher or lower) than a contact k-type does. It's also a pain in the ass to know if it's really looking at the bottom of the dish, or just some heat radiating off the side. Those lasers aren't lined up well.

Somthing to this effect, usually they can plug into a nice multimeter or a standalone device:
https://www.amazon.com/K-Type-Thermocouple-PK-1000-Temperature-Insulation/dp/B0083SZC6S