Best products from r/ender3

I've owned the Ender 3 for a few months now and have made a number of upgrades, both purchased and printed. Here's a list of what I have purchased and printed, sorted by importance/usefulness.

 

Purchased Parts:

1. EZABL - An automatic bed leveling solution that has worked really well for me. TH3D's firmware and documentation are top notch. Once I dialed it in I've had no issues with bed leveling or adhesion. Also note, TH3D is an American company and Tim, the owner, is even a mod of this sub!
   
   
2. Stepper Motor Dampers - A great way to quiet down the printer. My bedroom and office are connected without an intervening door and the dampers allow me to print overnight and still get get to sleep. Some users have had issues with stepper motors running hot with the dampers installed, but I've had no trouble at all, even after 16+ hr prints.
   
   
3. 5015 Blower Fan - For use with the Petsfang Duct, see below.
   
   
   
4. Assorted M3 Screws - If you're going to be making mods to your printer, you're eventually going to need different sized screws. Having various lengths on hand is super helpful when trying to mount a new part.
   
    
   
   Printed Parts:
   
   
5. Filament Guide Arm - This has helped a lot with keeping the filament feeding smooth and preventing under-extrusion issues. There is a more popular model on thingiverse, but I found this version to be stronger and more stable.
   
   
6. Petsfang Cooling Fan Duct - An extremely popular replacement for the part cooling duct and fan. This creates much more even cooling around the filament as its extruded, providing better bridging and better overall print quality. There is a version using a replacement 5015 blower fan, as I have used, and there's a version called the "Bullseye" that uses the stock fan. I chose to replace the stock fan because mine was starting to rattle.
   
   
7. Tool Holder - It sounds frivolous, but having the tools you need right at hand can be a big help in saving a print or performing trouble shooting. Definitely a must have.
   
   
8. LCD Rear Cover - Protects the circuit board behind the LCD, which is exposed from the factory. If you have children like I do, this is a must.
   
   
9. Cable Chain - Routs the various cables to their destinations in a clean way. Looks super cool. Not necessary, but definitely fun. Note, there is an X-axis cable chain setup available, but I found it made excessive noise and wasn't worth the trouble.
   
   
10. Fan Shroud - Protects the main board fan from bits of filament falling down into the casing.
    
    
11. Storage Drawer - A handy little drawer that slides in next to the LCD. I store things like alcohol swabs, razor blades, and other random tools in it.
    
     
    
    Future Upgrades:
    
    Spool Roller - One issue I've found is that the stock spool holder requires excessive force from the extruder to unwind filament. A replacement spool roller with bearings should reduce the friction significantly and produce more even extrusion.
    
    Metal Extruder - A common problem with the Ender 3 is that it fails to maintain proper tension on the extruder gear, which leads to failure to feed and poor extrusion. An all-metal extruder has been known to fix the issue.
    
    
    
    
    
    

You can add dampeners on the ender 3.. here is my write up on this . I posted this a few time but it's fully helped me.

I have had this same issue. I work from home and there is nothing like a 3d printer going off in the background while you are presenting in a conference call. I also have the Ender 3 pro, here is how I solved the noise.

Note: 4 things to know before venturing off in this solution. This may save you some reading.

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1st: You will need to know how to take things apart and put them back together.

2nd: You will need to print a few parts (listed below)

3rd: Cost will run ~$25 - $50 for parts ( listed below, some are optional), about $125 for the added enclosure to do it the correct way.

4th: There are prolly other solutions like getting a better board, but I like to stay true to the oem setup and tinkering with what I have.

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Here is what you will need:

1st Dampeners: $15 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNT72SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-as you are going to be removing the stepper motor away from the rails which help cool, you will need a new way to help cool the motor such as heatsinks. (Below)

- You will prolly only use 2 of the 3. 1 on the Y axis and one on the X axis. Dont really need one for the zrod as it don't really put out a lot of noise when printing.

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2nd Heatsinks: $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWVGGGK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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3rd X axis stepper motor (42-34 is the size): (Optional) $ 17 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDBMT1D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- I say Optional as you can print the bracket to make the stock stepper motor work but it fully replaces the motor mount plate Found here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3271077 . I was just not sure how that would hold up to wear and tare as I was new to printing at the time and did not care to take the whole motor plate section and wheels apart.

-But if you want to skip printing the plate and the tare down/reassemble, I would order the stepper motor and 20 tooth sprocket. (below )

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4th Sprockets (20 Teeth) : (Optional, see 3rd item on list) $ 8 -https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019GICCMA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- sadly you can only get a 5 pack.

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5th Y Damper Bracket: Free - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3240449

- This moves the orientation of the motor to make up for the extra 10mm or so from the dampener.

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6th Small bed leveling nut wheel (not sure what to call it): Free , Print it.

- The back left wheel will hit the heatsink/motor after you add the dampener and causes the bed to not extend all the way back. I had to go on tinkercad and make my own mini nutwheel. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3742690

- This will make it a bit harder to level the bed as it is smaller and harder to turn, but if you have the yellow springs installed, you should not have to level your bed often =p

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7th - Lack Enclosure ~ $125 for me anyway Tables are around $8 and the plexy was around $50, and a full spool of filament ~$22, large pack of M12 screws $8

I got 3 tables, stacked them on top of each other, Printed my own feet/extensions to make sure it was the correct height (Solid 20" tall is what I went with) and then I went to my local Lowes and picked up 4 sheets of 3mm plexy. Cut my self and slapped it all together. This really finished off most of the noise for me, the only noise you will really hear after the dampeners is the fans. =(. I still hear the fans with an enclosure but its quite subtitle. I may upgrade to the much talked about Nactua silent fan with the buck converter to make it a 24/12 volt fan.

- You will need to also move the PSU out of the enclosure as this will help with the over heating/wear and tare. I printed some bracket ( like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3349588 ) to hold it to the underside of the 2nd shelf, and drilled a hole through to the printer where I could reconnect the printer and psu.

- This also helped with the fan noise from the PSU, I was really shocked on how well it worked. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3659432

- I also drilled a hole from the USB port down though to run my USB to and from Printer/octopi .

Hopefully this helps - hit me up if you have any questions . There is a lot of info here but it really helped bring down the noise. I would say the sound went from level 10 down to 3 or 4.

- I can upload my design for the Enclosure if needed, I am not fully sold on my design for the door section..

When I get around to it, I will upload pics of my setup =p

-shortliv3d

Ok!

So it's a late 2018 (December) Ender 3 Pro. I got it from Mech Solutions. They have been super helpful with some warranty stuff. (Magnetic bed delaminated and heat break/throat tube was broken.) https://www.mechestore.com/collections/ender-3-pro

Galactic Empire gears here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3422334 (I remixed this one!)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3005278

The braided cable stuff is from Amazon, here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071WF5NTN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought three sizes, 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4". I hated the Pi camera cable, luckily it fits perfectly in the 1/2" stuff. I found uses for all three sizes in different locations. The 1/4" looks cool on the bowden tube. I used heat shrink (or electrical tape) at the ends.

Hotend cooler is Hero Me with a velocity stack (stack purely for my own entertainment)
Hero Me: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917 - I used the stock 4010 blower version in the end. I was going to do the dual 5015 mod but the two Amazon fans I got were both defective.
Fan is a Noctua 4020 - from here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071W93333/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
** tech note - I added a 12v system running in parallel with the OEM 24v Ender system - more below
Velocity stack:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2211780

Someone spotted it, on the left I have a Raspberry Pi 3B+ running OctoPi (Octoprint):
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BD3WHCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and a 3.5" touchscreen TFT LCD:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07KLDKM5D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and a Pi compatible camera:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0759GYR51/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with longer cables:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DNYM8KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The camera needed a mount:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886101
and an off-brand sleeve:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994762

The Pi needed a mount too, and I found one I love that just happened to fit the screen I bought:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2530258
** user note - this thing is massive, and tricky to print. Worth it, though.

OH. THIS IS A MUST:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2943218 xD

All metal extruder, conveniently in red, from here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JVJWC5B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
** tech note: if nothing else, do this upgrade. This, and the one just above it. Mine was under extruding, and I poured hours into trying to calibrate/test/bla bla bla... it ended up being a broken heat break and crappy plastic extruder.

Filament guide (top rail)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3003807
At extruder:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3303562

Z-Axis bar cable management:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2761965
** user note: this is one of my favorites!!!!! I covered it in LEDs, white for the bed, and red for the wall/bowden tube!

Ok, so, something that made getting good fans difficult is the Ender 3 uses 24v fans (except the power suppy, it uses a 12v fan. Bonus.)
To get some 12v power, I used a buck converter to step 24v down to 12v from here:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FQH4M82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and basically I run all the fun stuff off it.
JST and XT60 connectors are all from www.hobbyking.com. Same with 22AWG three wire servo wire, super handy. I already had this stuff kicking around, but hobbyking is good if you need this stuff.
The PSU has some open ports, I added another XT60 cable with 24v service. I made it the same as the OEM, and they are backwards compatible and nothing will fry. One of them goes to my buck converter, the other to the Ender main board.
** tech note: I used a 3.5A BEC from hobbyking to power the Pi, off the 12v side of the buck converter. I ended up cutting the power supply cable that came with the Pi (and added JST connectors to the whole thing so I could reuse it one day.) The BEC steps the voltage down to 5.1v from 12v. 3.5A has been plenty. I think it might use .8A with my giant RGB keyboard plugged into it.

This is super worth it, a must do. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AEXNqvTXE5ZZhnhi8

Oh, the nice little platform the buck converter and Pi cooling fan is sitting on is this thing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2539545

more below: (above?)

I'm going to do the install again on my other Ender next week and I'll fully document it then. Things I learned along the way:

First you'll want to bookmark this page. Pretty much everything you need to wire and configure the firmware is there.

The Einsy uses Molex 9402, 03, and 04 connectors for all of the stepper motor, fan, thermistor, and end stop connectors. While it's possible to cut the keys off of the stock connectors and the stepper motor connectors will fit, I prefer to have the polarized latching connectors, so reterminated all of them. If you order the board with the hardware kit from Ultimachine it includes connectors and pins, but I was glad I went ahead and ordered more pins and connectors from Amazon as it took me a little while to get the crimps correct and I ruined most of the pins.

Note also that the JST connectors that plug into the end stops and thermistors have a much shorter barrel than the Molex ones and I had to get a different crimping tool for those. I also got an assortment of ferrules and the crimping tool for those as I really hate running bare wires into screw terminals and I don't like using spade lugs either if there is more than one connection to a terminal. Ferrules are much better than bare wire and the connections last years longer than a bare wire. My bed heater connection was scorched because the wire wasn't inserted all the way into the connector and most of the strands had broken off leaving a high resistance connection.

Both fan connections are 5V PWM. You can get to 24V on the exp 3 or J 19 if you just want the hot end fan to be on all the time, but I went ahead and got Noctua 5v PWM fans. I printed the simplest adapter possible to convert the centrifugal part fan to axial and wired both fans to the fan connections. Still having issues getting the hot end fan to turn off and on based on the hot end temperature, but that's the project for tonight. Still doing test prints, but so far it looks like the part fan is doing ok, but I have a new hot end mount that has dual part fans printed that I'll get on this weekend.

I had a terrible time getting sensorless homing working and couldn't get the mostors to work at all with them set to microstep values set higher then 4 on the X and Y axis. I had always planned on upgrading the extruder stepper to one of the high torque Moon's steppers, but I ended up upgrading them all as I couldn't find out what the specs for the stock motors were. The X, Y, and extruder motors were easy as they weren't size constrained, but the Z axis can't be more than 34mm tall to fit in the stock mount. I ended up using this motor for the Z axis and it's working very well.

The stock stepper motors may or may not have pressed on gears. My Y motor did, but the X did not. I just ordered more gears as I wouldn't have trusted the gear even if I managed to get it off without damaging it. Since the new motors for X and Y had a slightly longer shaft, it was easier to get them adjusted with the grub screw type gear.

After I got the steppers replaced, I still couldn't get the motors to work until I boosted the motor current from the 800mA default to 820mA. After that 16x microstepping, stealthchop, and sensorless homing started working reliably. It could be that the stock motors may have worked if I had done the same with them. I'll find out next week when I do the next one. I have all new Moon's steppers already purchased for it though so I'm not going to spend a lot of time messing with the stock motors.

The stock stepper motor and end stop cables where solid black ribbon cables. No color coding at all. I decided to replace them rather than try to trace the wires. After I got the cables made I discovered the fancy Moon's stepper had a different pinout from the rest and had to fix that one.

Stock motherboard had the SD card reader mounted on it and I prefer to print from SD for anything that takes more than 8 or so hours, so I got the RepRap full graphics LCD. It was only $11 and it has a full size SD slot. Worked fine as soon as I cut the key off of the EXP connector and reversed it. Be careful doing that, I nicked the ribbon cable and ruined one of them.

Stock firmware image on the Einsy came up with a Mintemp error. Most likely it was using the wrong thermistor type. I went with the vanilla 1.1.9 bugfix version of Marlin as a base with the Ender 3 default configuration files loaded. There is a link to a preconfigured 1.1.5 Marlin in the wiki, but it doesn't have Ender 3 example configuration files. I didn't really look at it as the difference in configuration is quite different from the 1.1.9 version. You'll need to add a link to the board manager repository, but that and the libraries you need are fully described on the wiki.

Haven't gotten interpolation to 256 steps working yet and it doesn't work at all with stealthchop disabled. Motors start moving 4 times as far as they should in either case. Homing is done in spreadcycle mode, but I guess homing just needs to move until it stops, so maybe it's still trying to go 4 times too far, it just doesn't matter.

BLTouch wiring is almost exactly as the Wiki documents and worked perfectly on the first try. Only thing incorrect was the 1.1.9 bugfix default for pins_EINSYRAMBO.h already has the correct mapping for the z end stop and probe pins when bltouch is enabled. You don't need to change that.

I built Marlin many times and update it through octoprint. Until I got ABL working and needed to save the mesh, I put M502 and M500 commands in the script that octoprint runs after the firmware is loaded. That way I knew that all of the firmware changes I made were always applied when I loaded a new image. Make sure and enable the m122 TMC Debug option. It's the quickest way to verify how the drivers are set up.

I've enabled pretty much all of the bells and whistles in Marlin and I'm only using 63% of the code space. May try enabling Unified Bed Levelling tonight.

I also disabled the option that prevents cold extrusion with M302 while I was debugging the extruder motor. I just left the bowden tube off of the extruder until I get the motor calibrated.

That's pretty much everything that I can think of off hand. When I do it again I'll probably remember other things.

Can't tell if it's a knockoff or not, but it all looks good to me. Yeah, that's the stuff you need. I would also recommend blowing a few bucks on these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PSDJHRY

Be sure to check out the links on this sub's sidebar. For example, do NOT build your new machine using the printer's included instruction "manual." Instead, there are some awesome youtube videos which will pretty much FORCE you to build the printer correctly the first time.

Good luck and happy printing!

Update for everyone:

• Watched this video on the Hero Me system.
  
  
• Watched this video on the Hero Me system.
  
  
• Watched this video on replacing the Ender 3 hot end fan.
  
  
• Watched this video on replacing the Ender 3 hot end fan with this quieter option (I don't need it to be quiet, so I'm not going to do it).
  
  
  Conclusion:
  
  
• I'll use the Hero Me system with this hot end fan guard.
  
  
• I'll replace the filament fan (I believe that I have my fan names correct) with the dual 5015 Hero Me setup using these 5015 fans. Here's a video I found that is basically a step-by-step guide for it.
  
  Hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll be back with a successful picture!
  
  /u/hockeyhippie and /u/johnedwa if you have any input.

Thanks for the reply. So far I haven't touched the extruder arm screws so the should be ok but I will check them later tonight.

I have watched the gear and it looks pretty good to my untrained eye. It doesn't appear to be slipping and also doesn't look like its digging in too much. I have had the chance to check out the tube when I was cleaning out the nozzle and hot end and it looks free from any particles.

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I have purchased https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_1NwwCb51ACY2Q and it should be arriving today. So I will try to use https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831 to stop any future issues.

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I will go through the the procedure shown in the video you link and hopefully, this will help.

​

All of this as well as Kamilon's should hopefully resolve my issues.

Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.

Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.

Here’s a 24v 40mm x40mm x 20mm fan. Twice as thick as stock, but quieter, while moving more air. Just be sure to match polarity on the wires and ignore the signal wire (white). This will replace the heatsink fan.

https://www.amazon.com/SUNON-MB40202V2-0000-A99-Fan-Vapo-Size/dp/B0084ZNAU0

For filament cooling, it’s pretty much going to be louder no matter what, but I suggest a petsfang or hero me duct for a 24v 5015 fan. The fan is much more powerful, so you can drop it to 60% cooling in your slicer and it will still be quieter Than stock while cooling better.

I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079BPS9Q8

Cheap, but you get a 4 pack, so if you have trouble, swap them out.

I also suggest wiring these in to simplify swapping fans - just simple solder, heatshrink, plug and go.

It may seem daunting, but it really is simple, and it makes it vastly easier in the long run.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HHY9ZJS

Pay extra close attention to polarity on the yellow/blue wire stock fan replacement so you don’t blow anything.

Honestly, I don't see a benefit in getting new hotend fans to replace the stock one. the only exception to this is if the old one is broken/damaged, or you want to silence your printer, in which case you would want to get a high quality noctua fan. but you need a buck converter. Teaching Tech made a step by step process on using a noctua and a buck converter, here


you can get a better part cooling fan, you can use the stock 4010 fan, new 5015 fans, or regular fans like the stock hotend fan. if you buy a 5015 fan and it blows your prints down for cools them too much, just turn down the fan speed in your slicer

Those couplers are trash and so is the PTFE tube they sent. They may work for a while but you'll want to swap them sooner rather than later. Here's a list of upgrades you'll probably want to do. You'll also want to look up a tutorial on how to upgrade your firmware so you can activate safety features (thermal runaway protection specifically). This also doesn't include a BLTouch or EZABL (auto bed levelers) as I have yet to make a choice personally.

Couplers and Tube:
SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Metal Extruder: ( original plastic one will wear out or break)
Ender 3 Creality 3D Upgrade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSS8FRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bed Springs: (more than needed but oh well)
SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9PBML5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glass Bed: (goes on top of print bed which is usually warped, printing on an uneven surface not so bueno)
Creality Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Raspberry Pi 3B+ for OctoPrint: (still need microsd card for it I believe)
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Stepper Motor Dampers: (silences the motors, no more sounding like dial up internet lol will need to print mounts from thingiverse)
Upgraded NEMA 17 Stepper Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNT72SF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat Sinks For Stepper Motors: (once stepper motors have dampers and aren't attached to the metal frame, they can get a little hot)
40mmx40mmx10mm Black Radiator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVGGGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hot end silicone sleeve: (may not need, mine came with one instead of the old insulation)
Creality Original 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNXJ39T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Extra Filament: (ender 3 only comes with a small sample "spool", this is just a brand I use and have had decent results with. The metallic silver hue shows off detail well)
3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I struggled with adhesion for the first couple weeks of printing. Then I swapped my stock bed for a glass + PEI combo. Got the flatness of the glass + the adhesion of the PEI. Once the plate cools down a few degrees, the parts come right off. No need for sticky hairspray to get things to stick, and no need to put the bed in the freezer to get things to unstick. Best upgrade I’ve made on my ender 3 (~$30 total). Always wipe down with isopropyl alcohol in between prints for best adhesion.

Tip: I also recommend gently wet sanding the PEI. Helps with adhesion and creates a very nice matte finish on the first layer.

Glass Bed:
Nearly Natural 4855 35in.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

PEI:
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Some other things I'd recommend


TL-Smoothers https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WG3SZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know you already upgraded the extruder assembly but this duel geared version is nice: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SY745CF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
PEI Bed surface (has to date been the best upgrade): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and if you don't have a glass: https://smile.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Glass-Upgraded-235x235x4mm/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=creality+glass&qid=1571456745&sr=8-5


I'd recommend applying the pei in the smooth side of the glass that way you can flip it over to have the textured side if you want.

Watch this video to help with assembly. The included instructions are full of engrish and hard to follow. This guy makes it easy, and adds some handy tips. If you're not replacing the bowden tube immediately (you don't need to, but it's a cheap and relatively easy upgrade), skip the steps in his video where he removes the tube and its couplers.

Read this comment for my advice on how to level the bed. Leveling is a misnomer - you don't want it level compared to gravity, but compared to the gantry. The usual advice involves sliding a piece of paper under the nozzle as a feeler gauge. That'll get you close - the steps in my comment will get you just about perfect.

Once you've done that, this fan shroud is one of the few things I'd call an essential upgrade. Also a glass bed.

I designed and printed a way to mount a 4010 fan (not blower) to the Bullseye duct. I was surprised but it actually prints as good or slightly better than the stock fan on that same duct. However, it is a lot quieter.

​

I am sure a 5015 would be better and I think I will upgrade later. However, this certainly made my printer quieter and doesn't seem to have degraded print quality. If you are upgrading for quiet and don't want to buy both fans and a blower this is a good option.

Here is the thing:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3453029

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Here are the fans:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DB5H6K1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd say the yellow bed springs are worthwhile. They're about $5 on Amazon, I bought these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXC1G2B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They help keep the bed from going out-of-level as quickly, vs the stock springs. They're easy to install, and cheap, which is nice.

There are loads of other upgrades you can consider. A glass print bed surface, as one example, or a PEI print bed. Either can help provide a flatter print surface, vs the stock magnetic one (which will more-readily follow any distortions in the heated bed surface, making your print surface uneven).

What you absolutely MUSTTTTTTT!!!! order? Nothing. The printer works as is. But if you want to do yourself a favour, here's a list of what I consider essentials:


- New springs, both bed and extruder. I don't have a link for an extruder one as I upgraded my entire extruder drive frame and that came with a better spring

- A new removable bed. Creality glass bed or glass with a PEI sheet is my bed of choice

- Thermal pad to avoid the annoying bed clamps. Cut squares out of it, lay them in a checkered pattern alternating between thermal pad and nothing and place your bed on top. They will hold the bed in place and help with heating

- Stepper dampers if your printer is anywhere near where you spend your time, it sounds like a bloody jackhammer right out of the box

- New tube fittings, the stock ones are terrible and will give out in a matter of weeks at best. They also barely hold onto the tube

There are a ton of other great upgrades, but I think a good idea is to get a feel for it yourself.

What you can do, however, is check out some printable upgrades. I have this thread where people contributed with their choice of printable upgrades. It's a great list you can refer to later. Essentials on that are the fan guard and LCD back cover simply because the Ender 3 as is has the fan and back of the LCD exposed and that makes it crazy vulnerable to dust and gook damage

Try calibrating it, also check the bearing.

More importantly you're much better off with a dual gear extruder like the one on the CR10s pro

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SY745CF/

If you can wait for China, this is absolutely perfect - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283585198053


Re: calibrating, I had to increase my steps/mm from 95 to 141. Smaller teeth = more steps

I LOVE MY ENDER 3'S. I have one running stock everything (except the bed) and the other is well, an ender 3 in name only now. (I know you mentioned you are in the EU, but I have provided links to my sources for US based distributors)

Printer setup:

Ender 3

MKS (MKS GEN L V1.0)

TMC (2208's)

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend ( MS all metal )

Custom Modified heater block (installed 300°c heater cartridge and 450°c capable thermistor from slice engineering) (heater) & (thermistor)

Bantamfeeder Extruder ( bantam design ) ... will be changing this out soon when I decide what next. Works well just not my cup of tea for convenience purposes.

Bullseye Duct ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439)

3-point bed conversion for leveling made easy (Leveling guide and 3 point leveling adapter). HERE IS A COMPLETED DESIGN OF THESE CHANGES( My bed setup ... < < < this is my stock ender 3)

Borosilicate glass bed w/ PEI (Glass bed & PEI Sheet)

PSU (Mean Well NES-350-24 24V 350 Watt UL Switching Power Supply 120 Volt)

​

OCTOPRINT SERVER

RPI 3b+ (raspberry pi w/ octoprint)

Pi Cam (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2SY756/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

​

So now you see why I say not really an ender 3 anymore, only in name

Your hot end is not able to extrude the amount of filament you are trying to push into it.

you need to do one (or more) of the following:


the hot end hotter. ^1
to print slower. ^1
to sort out a clog (either full or partial.) ^2
calibrate the E steps and flow rate. ^3




----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

^1
Not all filaments are made equal, I've had rolls of PLA that print fine fast at 210, then others that will gum up the hot end at speed. The printer takes time getting up to speed so some filaments look fine when printing slow or small models. Long paths show this failure I've had filament refuse to print cleanly unless the hot end is set somewhere on the upper side of 225-235 - going to extremes with temp should only be considered after ruling out a clog e.g. a/b the misbehaving filament with another brand and have the other brand work fine at the lower temps/same speed.


^2
(make sure to replace the stock bowden couplers they are crap allow the tube to back out and will cause no end of clogs, something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6/)
Follow this video on how to replace the nozzle paying close attention to the temperature everything is done at and the procedure to make sure the tube is snug with the nozzle. (to loose and you get goo, too tight and you'll squish the bowden tube and get clogs) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRzsGttNMyk
If you need to clean your nozzle (a big bag of 0.4 nozzles is a worthwhile investment and you can find them cheap on amazon) hold the nozzle in pliers and cooking off everything over a gas burner, use cocktail sticks to remove the majority of the gunk, get the rest out with the acupuncture needle the printer came with. - Needless to say this is all very hot and the plastic can catch fire and drip, so do it somewhere or over something non flammable and easy to clean, I do it over a ceramic stove top with gas burners.


^3

https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/

I'd make an addendum to the above instructions, ideally E-steps should be calibrated without filament running to the hot end, and the altered steps would look something like:

hot end at temp
remove filament completely
undo the bowden coupler
insert filament slightly into feeder,
cut filament flush at the hole the bowden coupler was in
extrude, measure, math, set e-steps,
cut filament flush
extrude, measure, math, set e-steps, save settings.

This way completely removes any sort of partial clog, variance in filament diameter size or issues downstream from the feeder assembly.

I bought this extruder feed from Amazon to replace my plastic one.

I checked a YouTube video real quick and then went for it. It seemed like a pretty straightforward install.

That said, now I look at it, the arm seems canted a bit, almost as if the screw with the bearing on it isn't in all the way? It's in as far as it will go.

I had one short countersunk screw (M2 I think) and a lock washer leftover. Couldn't think of where a lock washer would be useful for this assembly, and the stock one didn't have a lock washer anywhere, but if someone knows where it goes, or anything else to ensure this is on correctly, please let me know.

That said, it seems to be extruding just fine, I've done a couple of test prints and nothing seems amiss.

I got this one. I started with a glue stick but found out just washing soap and warm water provides great adhesion. I did increase bed temp to 70 from 60 also.

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Tempered-235x235x3mm/dp/B07F16WPR5?ref_=bl_dp_s_mw_17936569011

Thanks for the information!

​

Fot the Hero me, i need this fan?: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07BS8334N/

Or this kind? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSA83EW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I am litle confused about the correct fan! Thanks

Again, I am a super novice...

​

I switched out to a glass bed simply because my stock bed was warped. The tip could touch on the corners and a sheet of paper would slide right through in the center. Once you get the bed level though, I don't think your adhesion problem will be as much of an issue. The magnetic bed it actually pretty nice. I actually ended up turning my bed down a little, to like 55. I was at 60, and it was working, but I was having adhesion problems as well and figured it might be a combination of speed and filament being too hot to stick with a temp that high. I also run my PLA at 210.

​

These springs made leveling the bed much easier. Springs

This was the bed I went with. I like it a lot.

Do you mean the little blue clips? They've been coming with those for a number of months, but yeah, do yourself a favor and just get some better quality pieces to begin with. This is what I'm using, as an example.

Thanks for the detailed reply.

​

I need to read more to understand the z switch and z screws you are referring to. I have no idea what those are. I assembled by watching some channel on youtube do it. It was like a tales from the crypt vibe channel.

​

As much as it sucks, I probably need to completely disassemble it and start over. There has to be something done incorrectly for it to be this difficult. I am definitely going to get one of those gauges before I get back into. I returned the springs today and ordered different springs on amazon. When they get here, I might sit down one night and try again.

​

As for the bed, the glass one I got was scratched to hell from those stupid springs. I didn't know I had to raise or lower whatever switch you were talking about. Like I said earlier, I already ordered a SD card reader so that will be a definite mod. As for the octopi, is there a list somewhere on this subreddit of everything you need to purchase before starting? I have a raspberry pi at the house. I originally bought it to build a retropie but I haven't gotten around to it yet. I could use it for the printer if needed. I really like the idea of remote printing, having a webcam to see the print live, and putting a part on there that stops the print if there is a filament issue.

​

I have to go into the city tomorrow so I was thinking of stopping by ikea and getting some Lack Tables for the eventual enclosure but now I don't know if I am even going to keep the Ender 3. I am debating on returning it and moving up a tier. I really want to get started on this but it seems like I am never going to be able to print any of this awesome stuff. So many awesome files on thingiverse and I can't use any of them.....

​

Here are the parts I have purchased so far....

​

SD Card Extension

​

Glass Bed

​

Springs that I bought that would not lower bed enough

​

Most Recent Springs I am going to try

​

Metal Extruder Upgrade

​

Filament Black and Red

There is This glass bed with a coating on to that helps stuff to stick. I have it worked for a bit but after about a month stuff would not stick and I started to use hairspray to keep stuff stuck and its working great now. Here it is on amazon as well

Here's the aluminum extruder assembly. The plastic one that comes on the printer WILL break. It's just a matter of time. They crack from stress after a while and even before that they creep and you'll start getting missed extrusion.

Here's the stiffer bed springs. You won't have to compress these as much to get a good stiffness.

Another really popular upgrade is this glass build plate. It has a special coating that makes it so parts stick without adhesive, and it leaves a really smooth surface on your prints. Parts stick really well then when it cools down they self-release.

The 3 upgrades I linked are extremely popular upgrades. You can get by without the glass bed, it's just an option because the stock bed will wear out eventually.

I just have the Creality glass bed from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FSM8DK9/

It's been fantastic. Assuming your bed is properly leveled you don't even need to use adhesive, just make sure to clean it every once in awhile.

Sure thing. I got 2 of these 40mm FLX for the hotend and electronics box. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HOlODbHSE71M2 and one 60mm FLX for the PSU. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQMESS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eRlODbEZJZ1TK last but not least I ordered this pack of 5015s for the part cooling fan. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WFKPLWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cSlODb030FK1T Make sure it's the 24v quiet versions as well as these are dual ball bearing fans as opposed to other cheaper fans. While my printer is running I cant hear any of these fans at all.

I'm pretty sure I just got an official creality one, but here is an Amazon link. I'm glad you got it figured out!

The stock ender fans are sleeve bearings ... that type is supposed to be used horizontal and not on something moving... i.e. they are long running stationary horizontal fans.... what the should have put on there are double ball bearing fans... something like this - note it is not as quiet as the stock, but it moves twice the air or more.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6WXVHW

​

If you want to make them quieter, use a buck converter and step down the voltage feeding it until it is still moving air good, but not at such a high RPM ... you can also put in a 12v noctua fan with a buck converter, but those don't move nearly so much air so you may still have heat creep issues.

These are the files you'll need for the Bullseye/Petsfang. There's also a chart in the download that should help you determine what you need for any accessories you're adding (ABL)/checking my math. Just locate the hotend setup you have at the top and look at that column for what you need.

Bullseye: BULLSEYE_BASE_CREALITY_9.27 & BULLSEYE_DUCT_9.27

Petsfang: CR10_STOCK_MANUAL_CASE_V11.3 & CR10TEVO_5015_DUCT_V7.5

​

I cut the existing wires for the fans and wired in a connector for easy replacement down the line. Just make sure you get the 24V and not the 12V.

Blowers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DB7DLMM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DB5H6K1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's hard to describe how tight it should be, but I believe I only loosened the arm about a quarter of a turn after screwing it in.

My apologies, I was a little unclear. The bearing should be able to move freely in the air when you push against the lever arm. When you push the lever arm in (like when you change filaments), you should be able to rotate the silver bearing in the air by hand without any trouble.

If you cannot spin the bearing, then it needs to be loosened a bit.

For your extruder spring, are you using a silver spring, similar to the stock bed/extruder springs, or a yellow spring that's commonly recommended as upgrades?

I got the Noctua 40x10mm
I have one on my Hot End already and it works great, keep the temp cool just fine.

Buying this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and buying this in order to properly calibrate e-steps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These two things took my prints from adequate to pristine. Huge improvement.

I just bought these not expecting them to be that great, but to my surprise they’re significantly more quiet than stock. They’re even more quiet than the 12v blower fan I was using with a buck converter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L2WTH7H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iHcZCbCVANNZZ

i ended up buying this glass bed. Overall its pretty good. Just use purple glue stick you can buy anywhere and youll be fine. albeit for me i need to call in NASA engineers to get mine off as well. :/

​

https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3C42WXXA97BWB&keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1569282569&sprefix=ender+3+glas+bed%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-5

Outside of the things others have mentioned (springs, tubing, couplers, SKR, BMG, etc.) - if you don't already have some good tools/spare parts you can use this time to invest in some.

• Some superlube for bearings/z-rod/etc
  
• Ferrules & crimp (great if you want to swap boards and have 'proper' cabling)
  
• A heavier duty 'get off the damn bed' thingy
  
• Reusable cable ties (save the ocean or some shit)
  
• Deburr tool
  
• M2/M3/M4 bolt set with T-nuts (great if you want to print some add-ons that attach to the extrusions)
  
• Different bed surfaces if you want to experiment
  
• Microfiber cloths for cleaning things
  
• Tooth brush and some orange cleaner for cleaning up that z-rod
  
• LED lightbar or some other form of lighting
  
• Extra hot end socks, nozzles, thermistors, heating elements (better to have one or two on hand then wait a while!)
  
• 14/12 awg silicone wire for mains connection (great with spades & ferrules!)
  
• Soldering iron, cabling, heatshrink (if you want to swap fans or do any other wire splicing activities)
  
• Ball bearing 4010 fans (or 4020, or whatever size you mod to - IMO go for 24v and avoid noctua/buck converter shenanigans)

Yeah, that's kinda what I was worried about. This is what I purchased. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FSM8DK9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was kinda hoping to be able to put the sticky build sheet on the back side, and leave the coated side against the heated plate. The reviews seem to suggest that the coating wears away very quickly. But I'm afraid that the coating will mess with the adhesion of the polycarb build sheet.

Ideally, it would be great if I could just put the polycarb sheet on the back, and just flip it back and forth and use both surfaces. Just don't know how safe it would be having either surface directly against the build plate.

Here's the extruder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uSFjDbRH4ZQE4

Here's the springs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DTFjDb1KAPZ15

There's tons more. All you need to do is search Amazon. Glad I could help.

I'm in the middle of converting mine to an e3d v6 clone, bullseye mount, bltouch clone (that I had working well before), stock parts cooling fan and this 40mm heatsink fan:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSA83EW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

How are you mounting everything?

This is what bought for the hero.

WINSINN Blower Fan 24V 50mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079BPS9Q8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yellow springs are stiffer replacements for the bed levelling springs that are stock. They should help keep the bed level meaning you don't need to adjust it as regularly.

The stock Bowden couplers have a habit of coming disconnected, though I believe in newer machines a clip has been included to alleviate this. It's good to have spares anyway.

A glass bed gives you a nice flat print surface and I don't know what I did before I got mine. Many stock beds are warped making this a necessity.

Comgrow Heat Bed Glass Plate 235... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DSC9TJQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

SIQUK 2 Pieces PTFE Teflon Tube... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I can't find the link for the springs at the moment, will update when I find them.

That's exactly what happens. I too would watch it and think its fine and then come back later and its floating. Go ahead and check the bed leveling as well. It may need to be adjusted anyway.


Side note: If you find yourself constantly adjusting the bed every few prints or so, change them out for some better ones. These are the springs everyone goes for.

Yes my friend

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gbsPDbPNKDNM9

Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Bed 235x235x3.7mm for Ender 3 DC-01 Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T-sPDbX4FQ8EG

Printed in two parts. You can see the seam right above where I redacted my PII. Printed in Overture PETG. I used CHEP's petg profile in Cura but had to turn the flow rate down on the printer to 65% because the infill was falling apart. took about 18 hours total I think. printed on the this glass bed because my build plate has a huge bulge in the center. 205C/50C. Going to CA glue and clamp it together and prime and paint it to look like aged/patinaed copper.

This is only about my fourth print and my first with PETG. I can't believe the quality and surface finish I can get out of this little workhorse

The stock bed is known to warp sometimes. Ever since I got the glass bed for mine it's been amazing. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F16WPR5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Had these for a while and they’re great

FYSETC 3D Printer Motherboard Accessories 0.31 in OD 0.78 in Length Compression Springs Light Load for Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling - 10 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O-MLDbD1EA96T

I just ordered one the other day after doing lots of research. This one has great reviews: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RD6D2ZQ?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Just to be clear, we're talking about this one, no?

Damn, then I definitely got the wrong bed -I bought a borosilicate glass plate and some glue sticks. I saw that bed on Amazon, but the description implied it only worked on ABS. Too bad, I liked the idea of the Build Tak, and now I'm not really in the mood to buy yet another bed and re-level it again.


But my laziness may win out in a week or so, so who knows.

You seem knowledgeable about the couplers... Would these be better than stock? 4 Pieces PC4-M6 Quick Fitting + 4 Pieces PC4-M10 Straight Pneumatic Fitting

I chose the pro due to the Meanwell power supply and have applied the following mods or printed parts:

Marlin Stock 1.1.9

KIS3R33S step down converter (to power Raspberry Pi from Ender PSU) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-KIS3R33S-7V-24V-to-5V-3A-DC-DC-Step-Down-Power-Supply-module-RED-/161780779075?txnId=1778699508006

12V 24V to 5V USB dongle housing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:806285

XT60 parallel connector https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07BMPKGM6

Hotend Silicone Sock https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07JMMJ51W

Aluminium Extruder drive https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07BBPFFVD

Raspberry Pi case (Raspberry Pi 3B for Octoprint) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3075921

Heated Glass Bed https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07DSC9TJQ - I kept the magnetic base in place though so I can switch between glass and this one which seems to be better than the stock one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comgrow-Cmagnet-Surface-Creality-Ender-3X/dp/B07H88QCY9

French Style frameless clips https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01M7408WJ

Levelling Springs Upgrade (stiffer than stock) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-STOCK-4pcs-creality-CR-10-cr-10s-ender-3-ender-3-upgraded-flat-spring-/401627349776?txnId=738973658027

Genuine BLTouch https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0748FJ48N

Clip-on LED strip (plugged into Raspberry Pi USB) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01M0JAYHG

Petsfang v2 with BLTouch mount left (had the bullseye previously) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439

5015 Fan (for Petsfang v2) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B079BPS9Q8

ENDER-3 BED HANDLE https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2957507

Camera holder (used an old Mobius cam I had) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886101

Ender-3 CR10 Tools holders
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886395

MK8 extruder cable clip https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3007042

Ender3 pressure fittings fix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994683

Cable clips https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2960375

Cable clip https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949858

Filament guide https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2896612

Extruder knob https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3109769

LCD/PCB cover with original screws https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2858209

Extruder Nozzles different sizes https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B076DYCSQB

Replace the springs with some of the yellow ones, they'll help keep the bed level for much longer.

Here's an amazon link, you can find them on ebay and Aliexpress for cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B/

The official Creality one is on their Alixpress shop - but I can't find that thing right now.

Anyway, looks like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/WINSINN-Extruder-Upgraded-Aluminum-Extrusion/dp/B07SY745CF

This Winsinn one on Amazon. You might not be able to get their supplied spring in there because it is normally a bed spring and it is really long and strong. I worried that it would wind up gripping too tight and not let you use the lever to loosen up the tension to get filament in.

I just ordered one today. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ApDCCb7WCN032
I want to say it has a textured surface where you don't have to use hairspray and the like.

I want to recommend this product at Amazon.com

FYSETC 3D Printer Motherboard Accessories 0.31 in OD 0.78 in Length Compression Springs Light Load for Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling - 10 Pack
by Fuyuansheng
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_gPhXDbWZMATD3

Here is a quickly made fan blade based on a render of the Ender 3. It's assuming that your hotend fan blade broke, not part cooling. I have no clue if it will work or not. Use super glue to attach it. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3758044

Honestly, it probably won't work out well. You might consider a replacement fan from Amazon. But this might get you going.

I changed to a PTFE tube that came with some coupling that e bought, because i didnt like the original couplings. The diference i noticed is that this tube lets the filament flow more freely.

Link to the couplings and tube:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DC594D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One of the quickest and easiest ways will be to get some stepper motor dampers. This will effectively silence the motors on the printer:

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Vibration-3D-Creality-Printers/dp/B07DNT72SF/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=ender+3+stepper+motor+damper&qid=1562897146&s=gateway&sprefix=ender+3+stepper+moto&sr=8-4

If you've just recently bought your printer, you may check to see if you have the grub screw adjustment on your steppers before you buy them, because some of the newer models don't and you will need this to install the dampers. If you don't have these then there is a work-around but it requires more effort. After you do this the fans will be the loudest part of your printer, so you can look into getting quieter fans or upgrading firmware.

I went with the Crealitty Glass Bed Upgrade

There are mixed feelings on what to go with. A lot of people just use a mirror or similar, but to me it was worth $20 to know it wasn’t going to shatter on me at any point.

When setting your springs make sure you wind them all the way tight and then back off two turns.

Also upgrade to the yellow springs. https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B

It's going to happen to you. Possibly even with a filament guide eventually. The plastic extruder is just terrible. Picking up the all metal extruder is one of the best buys you'll make.

Hmmm, maybe I should just go ahead and replace the whole tube and the fittings while I'm at it. That seems to be a highly recommended upgrade.

One day I'll actually get to do some printing of cool things instead of merely trying to get my Ender 3 operational. :/

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Yep, just got this glass bed since the stock bed was lower in the middle on mine. Works great, no more leveling issues. I still have the stock springs though, they seems to work for me but I haven't printed much yet to see how long they hold.

Add tape or glue to the smooth surface of the glass for adhesion, yes, but if you get https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Tempered-235x235x3mm/dp/B07F16WPR5 you won't have to use tape or glue at all.

I see these

https://www.creality3donline.com/creality-2pcs-cr-10-ender-extruder-spring_p0153.html

Or should I buy some yellow ones from amazon?

FYSETC 3D Printer Motherboard Accessories 0.31 in OD 0.78 in Length Compression Springs Light Load for Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling - 10 Pack
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9YFnDb0DV66V4