Best products from r/ergodox

I use this cheap kit on my Ergodox EZ at work. It's got a nice selection of labels that fit me almost perfect. Just added two blank white 2U keys to get blank spacebars (I have one for each thumb) and got some leftover function keys (F1-F12) from a friend to use for my line of most commonly used F-keys (F3, F5, F11 and F12). End result can be seen here.

On my Ergodox Infinity at home, I have some random Cherry profile doubleshot backlit keycaps from Amazon, mixed in with some of the blank DCS caps the EZ came with (Cherry and DCS are similar enough to blend together). End result can be seen (in potato quality) here.

Note that I use 1.5U caps on the inner 2U thumb keys to easier feel where my thumbs are. It also fit the kbdfans keycap set better, since it doesn't have a 2U backspace for some reason...

It looks like you have damaged contacts, may have caused bridges, and who knows what all else. If you want to attempt to fix it, I'd say you need to be prepared to spend a lot of quality time with at least a cheap multimeter or other circuit continuity tool in order to determine where circuits are failing when they should succeed and where they are succeeding when they should fail. And you should definitely be prepared to discover in so doing that the damage is indeed too extensive to make a repair worthwhile.

Given that, it may well be more prudent to accept that pcb as a write-off and begin disassembling and desoldering everything and buying a relatively inexpensive replacement pcb.

Mostly it comes down to how you want to spend your time.

If you want to hone your circuit troubleshooting skills, this is an excellent opportunity to get more hands on experience with digital electronics and learn quite a bit.

If you just want a working Ergodox as quickly as possible, then I'd say accept the loss and begin rebuilding now.

It'll probably be slightly different if you're in the US, as I've sourced the PCBs from a polish company (Falbatech). I got the resistors and small electronic components from a local hardware shop for 36p, but the US has a good source that I didn't want to use because of the export/postage to the UK for the little bits. It'll save you a lot of the little ebay purchases. But one of the main reasons I chose the ErgoDox was because you can actually get your hands on a PCB. In the US you can get them from amazon for cheaper than what I paid.

I got the list of things required from here, it also has a bunch of links to guides. I've watched a few youtube videos of builds too so I'm feeling pretty confident. Not actually started building yet, a bunch of stuff is still being posted from China.

Keeping track of costs and sources using a spreadsheet:

Component|price|pounds|source|

--|:--|:--|:--
PCB|€25.00|£21.77|https://falba.tech/product/ergodox-pcb-electrical-boards-set-of-2/
AU Switch Plate (optional)|€15.00|£13.06|https://falba.tech/product/cnc-switch-plate-for-76-key-ergodox-set-of-2/
Postage|€6.00|£5.22|
Gateron blue switches|$16.00|£15.34|https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/products/gateron-swtich-3pin-or-5pin?variant=35765200205
Keycaps||£13.36|https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pbt-Keycaps-DSA-Blank-Keycaps-for-Ergodox-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-DSA-Profile/142657612181?hash=item21370e6995:m:mSd5PwNPG6mx3nS5rZFr1RQ
Teensy 2.0||£7.67|https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Teensy-2-0-USB-Keyboards-Mouse-8-Bit-AVR-Board-Cable-Box-For-Arduino-Applied-Top/401500938672?hash=item5d7b5221b0:g:4dMAAOSwXxhZ-Bv5
MCP23018||£3.58|https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MCP23018-E-SP-Supervisor-Integrated-Circuit-1-8-5-5VDC-DIP28/112613346113?hash=item1a38474b41:g:bEwAAOSwdnZZ7PLN
100 1N4148 diodes||£1.68|https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-100-1000pcs-1N4148-Fast-Speed-Switching-Small-Signal-Diode/231876409019?hash=item35fce936bb:m:md8l0VsUpY287D1JFmsoPDA
TRRS ||£3.33|https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5mm-audio-socket-TRRS-x2/183009131674?hash=item2a9c31bc9a:g:4wMAAOSwMfhaVOaq
USB connector||£2.37|https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-USB-5-Pin-Type-B-Female-Socket-PCB-Mount-DIP-Connector-Adapter-10-Pcs/132547574592?epid=1538345671&hash=item1edc737b40:g:eNkAAOSwwB1as1m~
Resistors & capacitor||£0.36|Local electrical store Maplin
Cable||£0.99|https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5mm-1M-4-Pole-Jack-Male-To-Male-Earphone-Headphone-Audio-Extension-Cable-FG/273040624430?hash=item3f927d4b2e:g:64kAAOSwh1haIl6u
tinsy headers||£0.99|generic headers from ebay!
|||£89.72|

The case is definitely one of the most pricey parts of a build. I'm planning on making one from some scrap aluminium I've got, and maybe buying some copper or wood for the sides. I'll post when I get around to it.

Edit: Just spotted an error, the USB plug is only 2.37, so the price has gone down nearly a quid!

I got this little gem https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZR13G4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which works WONDERFULLY for any system that has USB-C on the right hand side (or if you use your computer with an external monitor and want the computer to your right). Otherwise the longer one posted by oxheart might be a better option if you have any slightly older systems that only have USB-C on the left hand side (I have a couple so I'll be picking one of those up shortly).

I switched to an OEM profile keycap set for my Glow. That means they aren’t all flat and the same height, but I found the home key bumps to be super useful.


Here’s how they look.


Here’s the Amazon link.

Edit to add: I did use some blanks that I bought for the thumb cluster / non lit keys, but you can use the originals in those spots just as well.

I installed led's on my Infinity. Really any 2x3x4 LEDs should work. I used these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YCEWH74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XIVRybNG7ZBWX

I don't know about individually controlling them, I just leave them on all the time. But soldering is pretty straight forward, just stick the two prongs in the small led holes and solder them. The +/- side does matter, and each row is different, also some LEDs sometimes don't work. So the best way to not mess up is to test every individual light in its respective slot with the keyboard on, before actually soldering.

Sure. I think in order to get some pain relief a high priority is mostly to stop typing on bad (read: my laptop) keyboards. I have an old ergonomic keyboard which I actually find more comfortable than my current ergodox layout.

I want to be super-duper clear that I think the ergodox is in theory a beneficial keyboard. Given my current small desk, dining chair and inability to figure out what would actually be pain-free, I usually find myself aching after a long typing session.

On the positive side, I think the ergodox is philosophically a keyboard which is really closely aligned to the way I think. I like the programability and that I don't have to stretch for oddly shaped key chords. I have spent a lot of time thinking about how I type and that effort has paid dividends in efficiency for me over the initial layout. It's also my first mechanical keyboard, which certainly biases my favor towards it.

Thanks for the links. Thanks for letting me know layers are not accessible from USB that narrows my options. To clarify my non USB option was to solder a set of wires to the boards next to one of the ALPS switches and run the wires from those ~4 switches down to a row of foot switches so I can press the modifier with ether the keyboard or my foot. https://www.amazon.com/Etopars-6Pins-Momentary-Switch-Guitar/dp/B07519FJM7/ref=sr_1_130?ie=UTF8&qid=1525493883&sr=8-130&keywords=foot+switch something like this in a box with a hing for each and a piece of sheet metal over them as peddles. Or I could splurge on something like 4X of these: https://www.amazon.com/Philmore-LKG-Momentary-Foot-Switch/dp/B004GIIYK0/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1525493691&sr=8-14&keywords=foot+switch

I've actually wondered about this a lot before too...

Seems like it would be pretty easy to build...

• microUSB port in
  
• bluetooth radio
  
• firmware to handle bluetooth pairing/connection/etc, read usb HID and reproduce via bluetooth
  
• battery pack to power keyboard and bluetooth
  
  Seems like it would be neat, but very niche.
  
  
  Edit: something like https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Convert-Adapter-USB2BT-Assembly/dp/B00PI7MDK0

Anyone can manufacture the PCBs and sell them on Amazon, and not all PCBs support LEDs. That said, this was the first item I found in the search.

I haven't done a board with LEDs so I can't say for sure, but the second set of "square and round" pads below the keyswitch look like they might be where an LED would go. One review mentions LEDs, so I would say signs point to yes. But you post the exact Amazon item you bought so folks can tell you. Ergodox is open source and many folks make the boards, so it's hard to know with the information you've given.

Nope, they’re these ARKON Heavy-Duty Clamp Mounts. With the clamps removed, in this setup.

I really don’t get much wobble at all, with the way I have them secured now. Originally I tried clamping below the desk and connecting up through the bottom of the mount; there was a lot of wobble and the mounts would slowly shift downward and away while in use. I’m a pretty heavy-handed typer at times, so that’s no bueno.

As long as everything’s tightened, I haven’t noticed any movement over time with this arrangement yet. Since I’m extending everything with the longer bolt, there’s a bit of natural bounce if you push down on the wrist rest, especially while utilizing the negative slope, but it holds in its place well, even despite that. Of course, if I was to push down super hard, I’m sure I could shift the whole mount, but that’s way harder than I’d ever be leaning or typing. I haven’t wanted to test the limits required for destruction, for obvious reasons.haha

I got the uniform keys. They are good if you plan on tiling the keyboard. The top rows were a stretch when it was flat. I'm currently using a "standard" profile key set for the letters and numbers and the uniform keys for the modifiers and really like the combo.

This is the standard cap set I'm using.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072Q9V3YX/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499124501&sr=8-3&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=npkc+side+print+pbt+keycaps

I got the measurements from a kind fellow on /r/mk already, thanks though! Now I just gotta find somewhere to source foam pads kind of like these: https://www.amazon.ca/Notebook-Silicone-Reposition-Travelling-MacBooks/dp/B00CMJ1S8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483469476&sr=8-1&keywords=macbook+wrist+rest

Not sure I want to pay $17 for some foam and adhesive. If I can source it from AliExpress, that'd be awesome.

Link to the original idea - https://www.reddit.com/r/ergodox/comments/82cpv6/showcase_awesome_carrying_case_on_the_cheap/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

Got the case at a discount on Amazon. Usually it's like $16 or so. Link - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PMMB4X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_003yDbGQ060WC

Can’t recommend it enough. Only wish I could get it in 18 or 24 inch. ICEELEC 3.5mm Male to Male 4-Pole... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVRF8I2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I second this. I recently did the same. Works great.

Cable Matters USB 2.0 Type C (USB-C) to Mini B (Mini USB) Cable in Black 3.3 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUBS0SS/

Yes, I have ordered several that didn't work. This one does (as the interconnect between the two boards). The main cable doesn't seem to be as picky


Hopefully this works for you, my disclaimer is that I can't promise that it works for others the way it does for me.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01809N39W/

Yeah. It's a stupid basic design really. I had initially tried using a complex and jankey adustable fastener system to hold the tent legs in place before I realized that friction was enough.

https://imgur.com/a/UoY0ZzW

The wood is from a big plywood board I bought at the home depot. I laquered the bottom plank and that now provides plenty enough friction that I don't need to worry about the support peg slipping.

At some point I'll recut the pieces and use smaller hinges like these. https://www.amazon.com/Aneco-Antique-Replacement-Plastic-Contain/dp/B078LTJ6Z9/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=hinges&qid=1559161337&s=gateway&sr=8-9

That way I won't have screws sticking out of the wood so far lol.

I've looked for the same thing. Some Reddit users said this one works:

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01809N39W/?coliid=I1O20EL7NA504G&colid=GDHS94UZ4NHG&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

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I myself have gotten used to tucking the original long cable under the keyboard already.

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>Elecom Huge

https://www.amazon.com/ELECOM-M-HT1DRBK-Wireless-Trackball-Mouse/dp/B0735584RM