(Part 2) Best products from r/fightsticks

TL;DR -- I did not use a primer, and I did completely paint the inside and outside of both panels. No fitment issues, only issue due to extra thickness from the paint was the screws struggling a little bit during re-installation.

Satin Black

Satin Clear

Those are the paints I used. I did not use a primer. I went with satin on both because I was after a matte look like the main black body on the stick. I didn't want them glossy like the original white panels. I did paint the entire surface of the panels. The only thing I noticed was the screws struggled a little bit during re-installation but that was to be expected and really wasn't an issue. I didn't and haven't noticed any other fitment issues from the paint.

For preparation, all I did was wash the panels to remove any dirt/oils and then used the finest sandpaper I had on hand to sand/scuff up both panels to help the paint stick better.

If I remember correctly, I did two (maybe three? sorry it was a while ago) coats of each the black paint and the clear top coat. You will want to spray a good distance away from the panel you're painting, at least 8-10 inches, and nice smooth motions, you kind of want the paint to fall onto the panel lightly, if that makes sense. It helps to avoid runs and imperfections.

I used a paper clip in the screw holes to help me manipulate and hold the panel up as I was spraying so I avoided finger prints and also keep it propped up during drying so it didn't stick to the cardboard box I was using. Between coats check the entire panel for runs or clumps and if there are any, wet-sand those areas smooth with the finest grit sandpaper you have before you apply the next coat.

Once I was satisfied with the look/finish, I let it dry for 72 hours. I just wanted to be sure that everything was DRY before securing them back on the stick. Obviously, you can still use the stick during this, it just looks weird without the panels.

Doing it this way was not 100% ideal or correct I'm sure, I'm not a painter and haven't had much experience with it to be honest. There are one or two imperfections, which I suppose I could wet-sand and repaint, but I don't notice them. They are small, and i don't feel like doing that process again for one or two small imperfections. I am very happy with the look and outcome of the little project and happy I did it. They look so much better black than they did white.

Hopefully this post is of some help. Good luck, you will be very happy you did it. It is worth it, the stick looks so much better.

Here are some items you can use to replicate Jasen's Pro Cables that he makes or use a different branded USB cable.

Jasen uses a Monoprice USB cable. Cheaper to get it directly from Monoprice if you buy a lot in quantity since I'm guessing Jasen does the same for creating his cables. Or just search any USB cable that details it is shielded.
Monoprice

I've used these USB cables as well and has shielding. The OKRAY is used to replicate the Razer Panthera cables and works well.
Cable Matters
OKRAY

The GX12-5P or aviation 12mm 5 pin connector. Can get it from Amazon, and fulfilled for Prime shipping luckily. Else get a bulk order from China like AliExpress for cheaper price per quantity.
Amazon

For color sleeving, it's a 1/8" Techflex Flexo PET or expandable sleeving. You can get this from multiple sellers. Should cost about $5 for 25ft.
Techflex

Then some heatshrink, wires stripper, and soldering iron. If you know how to use a soldering iron (and have the tools), then it's easy and not frustrating. I used the Panthera pinout instead of the TE2+ pinout when soldering the wires to the pins because it matches the actual USB spec diagram in pin order. And then I can use the cable interchangeably with my Panthera and custom case. No need for 2 different cables since the Pantheras flourish the market now.

However, one issue I face is creating a neutrik size mounting plate to install the passthrough cable onto the case. Jasen's makes the metal plates his own so I haven't come up with a solution yet other than finding someone to press some metals plates for me, cut some acrylic, or maybe 3D print it. For now, I just order the Case Side only piece from Jasen.

And that should be it. If you're a person that appreciates their own craftsmanship in tinkering and creating things like this, then this should no brainer and fun.

I recommend a totally different direction and getting the HORI HRAP4 Kai. Its got great parts included. Its easily modded. I faced the same choices for my first stick. I love my Kai. Check Offerup or Facebook Marketplace in your area for good used ones as well. I've seen more than a few good examples in my area many times going for 100-120 USD. Otherwise buy it new from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Real-Arcade-White-PlayStation-4/dp/B01M3ULCQY/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1R9WSILKMDTQN&keywords=hori+real+arcade+pro+4+kai&qid=1549962549&s=gateway&sprefix=hori+real+ar%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-2

good luck

These are the best sticks at the moment for ps4, IMO.


Hori Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai $150 (black/white/blue/red) (Hori / Sanwa / Seimitsu)

This stick has a Hori branded joystick and buttons (Hayabusa & Kuro) Hayabusa has a good feeling, even considered slightly better than Sanwa by some.

Kuro buttons are quite a different feeling, they are matte with less sensibility than sanwa and have more travel from pressing the button to reach the bottom and being detected.
Most people get rid of their Kuro buttons and swap with Sanwa's tbh, but some like it.

Arcadeshock sells these sticks already modified with Sanwa or Seimitsu parts for some $10 bucks more.

Amazon

Arcaseshock


Qanba Obsidian $200 (Full Sanwa) - Side leds, made more of metal. Shiny, solid, wide and looks cool.

Arcadeshock

Amazon

Razer Panthera $200: (Full Sanwa) - Front button to open and easly access the stick, lower input delay than other sticks (except Broo's UFGB).

Razer

Amazon

Qanba Dragon $300 (Full Sanwa) - Unnecessarily expensive, stick is a tank, easy open design and like 90% of full metal body.

Arcadeshock

Amazon

Hori Real Arcade Pro V. Premium VLX $300 (Black/Red) (Hori parts) - So big it's uncomfortable to travel with, playing with it feels awesome I got one.
Cons are the joystick sounds a little bit too hollow when moving around (you can get used to tho) and has tons of input delay. With some modifications (changing the PCB with a UFGB and Kuro for Sanwa buttons) it's an awesome stick.

Arcadeshock

Amazon

I'm assuming you are on ps4/pc? There are a ton of good sticks to pick from.

• Hori Fighting edge
  
  
• Razer Panthera
  
  
• Qanba Obsidian
  
  
• Madcatz te2/te2+
  
  They are all in the $200 price range and are all great sticks. Personally I have a te2 and love it. For the most part, it just comes down to preference. If I had to pick, I'd probably go for the Panthera since I don't think Madcatz is making sticks again after they came back.
  
  All of these sticks besides the Hori fighting edge use sanwa parts. The Hori stick uses their own parts, but they are really solid from what I've heard (you can swap buttons/joysticks in any of these sticks, so it isn't the biggest deal).
  
  In terms of using custom art, the Te2 is probably the easiest. The Panthera and Te2 are the easest to mod overall because of their clamshell designs where you can open them up with buttons on the front, but all of these sticks are easy to mod.
  
  I've tried an obsidian and didn't like the shape of the case or the way it looks, but that is just my preference.
  
  I'd just look up each of the sticks and see which one looks best to you. You can't really go wrong with any of them.

I don't know if you want to spend this much money but I've been using my college backpack to transport my stick and it's great the giant duffel fits my Omni perfectly and with extra room so your lever won't get smashed . Plus the backpack is great all around for everything.

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K15S9LT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eiR6Cb7W79BNT
Or this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQIEWCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0jR6CbN8W9C49

I this the first one looks better but I liked the 2nd one better for comfort. It was kinda thick so it raised your hands up so the kinda hover over the buttons which was very comfortable.

Qanba Obsidian

• Currently on sale on their main website.
  
  HORI Fighting Edge
  
  Razer Panthera Evo
  
  Hori Rap 4 Kai
  
  The 'Hori Rap 4 Kai' used to be the most popular until the 'Qanba Obsidian' came along. From what I've seen, the Qanba Obsidian is the most popular stick right now. The 'Razer Panthera Evo' is an updated version of the 'Razer Panthera' and it's a solid stick from what I've read.
  
  Personally, I'm looking to get the 'Hori Fighting Edge' next because the button layout got me curious and the aluminum panel seems really nice.
  
  
  
  I have the Qanba Obsidian and Hori Rap 4 Kai so I can speak a little about those.
  
  >Qanba Obsidian
  
  Quite big in size and heavy. Definitely sturdy. Lots of room to rest your arms on. Custom art work replacement is easy. Same goes for replacing the buttons. The miscellaneous buttons up top are a little too small and fat fingering a button happens sometimes.
  
  >Hori Rap 4 Kai
  
  The size and weight lean towards average. It'll rest on your lap nicely and not feel overbearing. Custom art work replacement requires a little work because the default artwork has strong adhesive binding it to the steel plate inside. Replacing buttons is no problem. Miscellaneous buttons are on the right side underneath the right wing. You can also rebind buttons.

Yes, Hori's Hayabusa buttons and joysticks are just as good as Sanwa parts, and feel only marginally different. Hori joystick has a slightly lighter touch than a Sanwa, but it's not something you'd notice since you're coming from a lower quality joystick - either one will feel very sensitive at first.

Just make sure you aren't getting an older RAP with Hori's older Kuro buttons, which are less good. And if you're willing to spend the extra ~20 Euros, I'd go for the RAP N: it's has a larger, heftier, better (IMO) case design, and a headphone port.
https://www.amazon.de/Hori-Real-Arcade-Pro-PlayStation/dp/B0764DYT7P/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=&qid=1550087291&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Fighting-Commander-PlayStation-Officially-Licensed-4/dp/B01GVOFIAA?th=1

i used a hori fighting commander for a while before i finally got the scratch to invest in a stick. i really like it, and still use it every now and again just for fun. i also use it when i play emulators and some platformers.

the dpad is solid and face buttons are slightly oversized. i find it to be a really satisfying pad all around.

If you're in Hawaii then https://paradisearcadeshop.com/ is probably a good bet. Think they're based out of Hawaii as well.

As for that stick, it looks like you've chosen a stick with a 5 wire harness. If I'm not mistaken the Mayflash 500 uses a stick with 4 switches that are each individually wired to the PCB/Ground.

If you're willing to splice the existing wires to the 5 pin harness' wires then it could work. I did this recently when I installed https://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-jlf-tprg-8byt-sk-higher-tension-silent-microswitch-joystick/ into an 8Bitdo N30 stick, which is almost identical inside to the M500.

You'll have to splice the existing wires in each 2 pin harness going into the PCB to the corresponding color in the 5 pin harness, then splice the extra ground wire from each 2 pin harness into the black wire (I used a terminal strip). You can do this by soldering or some other method (I can't solder yet so I used scotchlok connectors like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071R2J7JP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ).

The guide I used is here, most of the info should apply to the M500: https://forums.shoryuken.com/t/newb-questions-on-modding-8bitdo-nes30-arcade-stick-with-sanwa-joystick/183575/74

So my girlfriend knew I wanted a fightstick and picked me up this for my birthday, and so far I find it so much more comfortable. However, I was planning on changing out parts, especially the actual stick (hard to hit diagonals, hard to get both switches to trigger together and it just feels inconsistent). I was wondering if anyone could suggest parts (heard a lot about Sanwa) and a good place to buy them that will ship to the UK.

Looks like they're available at Amazon UK.😅

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fusion-Wired-Fightpad-Playstation-PS4/dp/B07XTY1C3T/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=Power+fusion+fightpad&qid=1568733336&sr=8-1-fkmr0

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Black-Carbon-Release-Technology/dp/B00L9J4JRG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=vinyl+wrap&qid=1556736641&s=gateway&sr=8-3

But they have other colors and finishes. The material is nice, kind of like a rip stop fabric you’d find on a tent or something. Maybe not the best description. It is textured because it’s the carbon one, I imagine the others would be smooth. I’ve really liked the finish, it feels better on my hands and doesn’t get hot or tacky.

You do not need to carry both of them around. You can use the button re-mapper function on the included smashbox's software to mimic the hitbox layout. It will support all fighting games that offer legacy controller support, if you have a mayflash adaptor (https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-GameCube-Controller-Adapter-Switch/dp/B00RSXRLUE?th=1).

I have the following re-mapped profile saved and simply load it up if i want to use it as a hitbox. You won't have a PS button, but you will have start/options.

This would be the button reassignment (compare with PS4 controller)

https://imgur.com/a/ZXwXXtg

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X= X; Y= Y; A= A; B= B; Z= RB/R2; L = LT/L1; R= R1/RT; A+B = LB/L2

Left = X1; Down = X2; Right = Y2; Up = Y1

- Set Mayflash adapter switch to “PC” for use on PS4.

I never use my right thumb for up, only the left thumb. So, it works for me. You can also dual mod the smashbox by installing a ps4+ brook board or Brook UFB in it and switch back and forth between the PCBs if you want your PS button, touchpad button, etc. It may be your ALL-BOX!! : )

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The top layer is just the regular plexi, but I threw a cheap $10 vinyl wrap on.

The switches on the front are cherry rocker switches, which you can get here and here, although mine aren't connected since I don't really find the tournament lockout or LS/DP/RS switcher useful.

You can go as cheap as this or as expensive as this

An in-between may be this or this (larger, comes with plexi and has custom artwork capability) since you could swap the parts out with your sanwa parts pretty easily.

Another option would be this if you want the same as the F300 but with bluetooth but it'd require some cable splicing as it only has four 2pin connectors while Sanwa uses 5pin for the joystick.

Well I was actually going to get the new venom arcade stick but because it isn't released until the 30th of this month. I was asking about mayflash (as they are the both the same on terms of look and customization) and already planned on getting sanwa parts for it, but for £30 more I could get the hiro rap one on game for £130 look. so it just saves hassle but was really curious.

Venom Arcade Stick - Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Joystick-Replacement-Machine-Controller/dp/B01IJAQS9Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539937818&sr=8-2&keywords=arcade+stick+enclosure

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Something like that would fit those parts. You can find one with buttons and stick already built in if you have no clue how to wire up everything.

​

These cheap buttons and stick are not very good though, and they won't provide you with a very good experience and imo not worth the time and trouble. If you're building from scratch, it's worth it to spend a little bit extra for some quality parts.

you can use something like these T-tap wire connectors and tap off the usb cable's +5v/gnd to power your socd cleaner. It wouldn't need soldering then.

https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-Connectors-Self-Stripping-Electrical-Disconnect/dp/B07MLPBPW5/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=TICONN&qid=1562733944&s=gateway&sr=8-6

For PCB.

You can try dual modding used fightpads for Quad mod. More work but you can sometimes find them for less than 30 each preowned.
So, <60~ for both pcbs.

Ones I used...
PDP Mortal Kombat X Fightpad
Hori Fighting Commander 4

Other benefit of this is no firmware updates.

Razer Panthera Evo: Fully Mod-Capable - Sanwa Joystick and Buttons - Internal Storage Compartment - Tournament Arcade Stick for PS4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J9JTW9L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w2q4DbCTG2HP1

The hori rap n is cheap on amazon de
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0764DYT7P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kldZBbW4Y9E9N

I picked up the Qanba Dragon for $239 on amazon.

It being a Razer product in no way justifies the price. At best, it explains it, as Razer is infamous for selling overpriced, crap products. Even this stick is literally a rip-off of the Mad Catz fightpad, except it's even less usable (no analog stick) and somehow costs like 4 times as much. Even the very similar Hori Fighting Commander is a third of the price.

https://www.amazon.com/Joystick-PlayStation-Fighting-Officially-Licensed-4/dp/B01NGYL2NH

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Panthera-Evo-Mod-Capable-playstation-4/dp/B07J9JTW9L/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=razer+fightstick&qid=1563212685&s=gateway&sprefix=razer+fight&sr=8-1

$169.99 in cart.

Assuming you play on PS4:

Hori Fighting Stick Mini 4 (about $50) https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Fighting-Stick-Mini-PlayStation-4/dp/B014KXMEW4

Hori Fighting Commander (about $45) https://www.amazon.com/Fighting-Commander-PlayStation-Officially-Licensed-4/dp/B01GVOFIAA

Mayflash F300 (about $55) https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-Switch/dp/B019MFPLC0

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If you play on PC, all of the above works, along with:

Retro-Bit Sega Genesis USB Controller (about $20) https://www.amazon.com/Retro-Bit-Official-Controller-8-Button-Raspberry/dp/B07P37ZGTF

8bitdo M30 2.4G (about $25) https://www.amazon.com/8Bitdo-Wireless-Gamepad-Original-Genesis-Drive/dp/B07HB1XFQW

8bitdo M30 Bluetooth (about $30) https://www.amazon.com/8Bitdo-Bluetooth-Gamepad-Nintendo-Android-Genesis/dp/B07MSN1NPC

Qanba Carbon (about $60) https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Joy-Stick-Carbon-PS3-PC/dp/B01HSQE7IY

Uhm... There are apparently two versions.
https://www.amazon.de/Venom-Arcade-Stick-Playstation-lizensierter/dp/B00NHDSINS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=Venom+stick&qid=1556060470&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.de/Venom-Multi-Format-8-Button-Arcade/dp/B072MQC3ZX/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Venom+stick&qid=1556060470&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Which one?
BTW, I'm not German. There's not a Czech amazon

Never seen that before. As an alternative, check out the PowerA Fusion FightPad or the Retro-bit Saturn controller. There's also the wireless Saturn and Gensis pads from 8bitdo and Retro-bit (but I'm always paranoid about delay in wireless PCBs) and the HORI Fighting Commander (but it has a + shaped d-pad).