Best products from r/finishing

We found 25 comments on r/finishing discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 52 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

6. Scotch-Brite Light Cleansing Hand Pad 7445 - Mild Abrasive Hand Sanding Pad - White Hand Pad - For Metal, Vinyl, Porcelain - 6" x 9" - Pack of 60

    Features:
  • NONWOVEN HAND PAD IS DESIGNED TO RUN CLEAN: Light-duty nonwoven hand pad performs light cleaning on a variety of metals as well as wax mold deflashing
  • USE IN PLACE OF A MORE AGGRESSIVE HAND PAD: Very mild abrasive provides gentle yet thorough cleaning
  • GENTLE TOUCH FOR LIGHT CLEANING: Conformable web and fine mineral are excellent for fine finishes; also works well with liquid detergents
  • CONVENIENT ALTERNATIVE TO STEEL WOOL: Performance is similar to steel wool grade 0000 without rusting or splintering
  • PRECISION CONTROL FOR EVERY NEED: May be used by hand, with a hand pad block or on an in-line sander
  • RECOMMENDED APPLICATIONS: Light cleaning and light scuffing; Ideal for gentle cleaning on vinyl, porcelain and other delicate surfaces
  • For industrial/occupational use only. Not for consumer sale or use.
  • Ideal for gentle cleaning on vinyl, porcelain and other delicate surfaces
  • Light-duty non-woven pad performs light cleaning on a variety of metals as well as wax mold deflashing
  • Very mild abrasive provides gentle yet thorough cleaning
  • Conformable web and fine mineral are excellent for fine finishes
  • Performance is similar to steel wool grade 0000 without rusting or splintering
  • Works well with liquid detergents
  • May be used by hand, with a hand pad block or on an in-line sander
Scotch-Brite Light Cleansing Hand Pad 7445 - Mild Abrasive Hand Sanding Pad - White Hand Pad - For Metal, Vinyl, Porcelain - 6" x 9" - Pack of 60
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Top comments mentioning products on r/finishing:

u/mncoder · 8 pointsr/finishing

First off, I always recommend "Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner. It's pretty simple straightforward advice and it's only $15. https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665

Here's what he recommends:

>WALNUT
>
>Walnut is America's supreme native furniture hardwood. It is a hard, durable wood with a beautiful figure and rich, dark coloring. It has a smooth, medium-porous texture that accepts all stains evenly, and it finishes nicely with any finish. The coloring of air-dried walnut heartwood is a warm, rust red. The coloring of kiln-dried heartwood, which is commonly steamed to reduce heartwood and sapwood color variations, has a colder charcoal gray cast. As steamed walnut ages, the gray warms to a tan with a slight reddish tint. The reddish tint in aged walnut makes it difficult to distinguish from mahogany in old furniture.
>
>There are two finishing problems presented by walnut: the color contrast between the dark heartwood and the almost-white sapwood, and the coolness of steamed walnut.
>
>There are four ways to overcome the color contrast between heartwood and sapwood:
>
>• Cut off all the sapwood so you're using only heartwood.
>
>• Arrange your boards so you use the color differences to decorative advantage.
>
>• Bleach the wood to a uniform off-white color and then stain it back to whatever color you want. (See "Bleaching Wood" on page 80.)
>
>• Stain the sapwood to the color of the heartwood with a dye stain, and then stain the whole to the color you want.
>
>Woodworkers making one-of-a-kind furniture usually choose one of the first two methods: They cut away the sapwood or they use it decoratively. Bleaching walnut was common in factories when blonde furniture was popular in the 1950s. Today furniture factories use stains to blend sapwood and heartwood.
>
>You can warm the tone of walnut by staining it or by putting color in the finish. You can use any type of stain, though a gel stain will not bring out the full richness of the figure. Most finishes contain a natural amber tint that warms the wood a little. Orange shellac contains the most color, and it is often used on walnut for this reason, though it's not a durable finish for tabletops. Water-based finishes are totally devoid of color, so there is more reason to use a stain under water base than under any other finish.
>
>Personally, I like just about any finish on walnut. I've used oil/varnish blend, wiping varnish, and film finishes. For objects other than tabletops, my favorite finish is orange shellac because of the warmth it adds to walnut (Photo 17-12 on page 268). When using other finishes, I often add warmth by staining the wood (a dark rust, commonly sold as American walnut) or adding dye to the finish (again, dark rust) and toning the wood.

​

The only thing I'll add is "test, test, test". Don't try your ideas out on the final chest. Use test pieces of walnut to see how you like the results.

u/flashlightwarrior · 1 pointr/finishing

Well, regarding the sanding, my rule of thumb is to sand moving up through the grits until the sanding marks disappear. How high I go with the grits depends a lot on the tool I'm using (hand sanding versus orbital sander versus random orbital sander),species of wood, and what finish I plan to put on it. Hand sanding following the grain is pretty forgiving, because the scratch pattern blends in with the grain. Orbital sanders tend to leave a scratch pattern across the grain which stands out. Random orbitals are better, but still leave some swirls across the grain. If I'm going to stain it, sanding marks will show up much more strongly than if I was just going to clear coat it. Every project is different, but typically I'll sand to at least 180 if I'm staining, and at least to 120 if I'm just oiling and clear coating. In truth I usually go higher than those numbers, but if I'm in a rush I can get away with those as minimums. I've used it on a couple of projects and have been quite pleased with it.

Now, all that said, the amount of sanding you do doesn't really change the porosity of the wood. Rough sanding will leave a more toothy surface, but that doesn't make much difference to an oil or other penetrating finish, because it will soak in as deep as the cell structure of the wood allows regardless of how smooth it is. Paints don't penetrate, they just cling to the surface, so leaving a more toothy surface does benefit them. I looked at the primer you linked, and I'm still not quite sure what to make of it, but it seems to me to be something along the lines of what I've seen called grain conditioner, which is basically a thin oil that penetrates and soaks into the wood to sort of level out how the wood absorbs subsequent layers of stain or dye or whatever. It basically helps prevent blotchiness. Since it is a penetrating substance, it shouldn't really matter how much you sand it.

Since you seem to be having dificulty finding a final finish, I might suggest OSMO Top Oil. It's a hard wax oil that both penetrates and leaves a wax film on the surface. It's meant specifically for kitchen countertops, so it should be able to handle hard use and abuse, and it's easy to apply more as it wears over time.

u/RunninADorito · 9 pointsr/finishing

Edit: Before you read, these two pieces of wood started the same. The one on the left is the "bad" version based on how I used to finish things.



I'm absolutely no finishing expert, but I've spent the past couple of months getting ready to finish a major project. I have used a lot of shellac and other varnishes in the past, but generally like oil-based poly. Here's now I do it.


This advice probably applies to all woods, but I've been working with Walnut and Maple recently.


  1. Strongly consider filling the grain. If you want a glass-smooth surface, you have to fill the grain.

  2. Get the table nice and flat and sand to 220 before anything on top.


  3. Put some boiled linseed oil or tung oil on. Let dry for 2-3 days (maybe more). Sand very lightly with 320. Repeat 3-6 times. Let dry for a week after the final coat. Sand to 320 again.


  4. Cut your oil based poly 2:1 with mineral spirits.


  5. Brush it on very very slowly and smoothly with a good brush. Watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb7SJl1A5q8 I use almost no pressure and just drag the rush very slowly. This prevents bubbles. Bubbles are your enemy. If you go fast, you'll have bubbles. Also, get a good brush. 2-3" ox hair finishing brush. Again, you aren't painting. You're laying down material. DON'T PAINT.


  6. Ruin your work. This step is a big leap. Seriously, sand with 320 nice and flat before putting on the 2nd coat (see attached picture).


  7. Put on more coats.


  8. Before my last coat, I sand the base layer with 320, 400, and 600 so it's super flat. Then I put on a nice and thin top coat and dry for 2-3 days before polishing.


  9. Sand with 400 on up to 3000. Buff with some wax. Done.


    http://i.imgur.com/ZywuN6X.jpg This is a bit of a bad example as I didn't fill the grain (and haven't really polished yet), but this shows why sanding matters. If you don't want ridges where the grain is, you have to sand. Again, not the best picture, but sanding and putting on thin coats, slowly, will get you the finish you want.


    I'm absolutely not an expert. Just someone that's been frustrated sharing what I've learned. Here's my latest table-top with coat #2 on it.

    http://i.imgur.com/DpqiIvO.jpg


    Finally, not all sandpaper is the same. For 320, this is the best stuff around. Lasts forever and doesn't clog: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PPD1CYA
u/talldean · 2 pointsr/finishing

On my end, I've learned to hate tung oil. It's pricey, the real stuff takes a month to dry, and if it's drying faster than that... it was probably linseed oil I just overpaid for. :-/

Linseed oil has a great feel to it, but works best for dark woods or over dark stains; it'll yellow more than true tung oil over time.

The problem I see with your original plan is that the stain will mostly seal the wood, so the oil either won't soak in to give any protection... or the oil will re-wet the stain and pull up the color, which isn't a win. Oil works best on it's own, or maybe mixed with a dye, but

Bob Flexner's books are also fantastic here. If you have time to spend, this is used as a textbook for classes on wood finishing.

https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Select-Finish/dp/1565235665

So going all the way back?

  1. I'd experiment with either swapping oil for lacquer and doing a topcoat.
  2. If I really really wanted oil finish on top, I'd experiment with adding dye directly to the oil, or (more consistent) using a water-based dye on the wood, letting it completely dry, then trying oil (this is basically what you're doing with the tea). Wear gloves; the dye is at least as permanent as a sharpie on skin.
u/lazespud2 · 9 pointsr/finishing

Yep... if you are using it for food prep, then definitely don't stain it. What you want to use is Food Grade Mineral oil. You can find it in the grocery store near the laxatives (yep, people use it as a laxative).

Basically it helps to think of cutting boards as a sponge; to be effective it's needs to be damp, in this case with mineral oil.

You can also buy food grade finishes that are a mix between mineral oil and various waxes. You will be shocked at how fantastic it looks after you wipe it down the first time. I make cutting boards and you can see here what a good board looks like with just mineral oil.

Here's our instructions on how to care for wood cutting boards.

Here's an amazon link to john boos products the oil is just oil, and the conditioner is oil with some waxes mixed in.

Good luck!

u/_Choose__A_Username_ · 2 pointsr/finishing

I have a Wagner that’s very similar to the one you’re looking at and actually really like it a lot. I’m just a weekend warrior, so it works very well for me. If you plan on using this thing daily, then you can’t go cheap. Get a better sprayer. But for quick, smooth, and easy painting at a good price, you can’t beat these sprayers.

As far as clean up, I use hot water immediately after I’m done and have never had issues. You’ll need to take it apart and use a toothbrush too. You may need to clean it with diluted paint thinner every now and then, so keep some handy. And learn how to thin paints. It makes a world of a difference once you start using the correct viscosity for the paint/stain/finish you’re using.

u/blounsbury · 2 pointsr/finishing

You're welcome. Tried & True is so easy - wipe it on, wait at least an hour, wipe off any excess. Wait 24 hours. Apply 3 coats this way. Then you can burnish it with 0000 steel wool (or the white 3M abrasive pads which I prefer). I use these pads, and I bought a 20 pack on Amazon and I use them to get stuff off pots and pans in my kitchen as well: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Cleansing-Aluminum-Silicate-Length/dp/B00EW7M5S2/r

--
Make sure you apply it with a lint-free cloth (either a really old, well laundered tshirt, blue shop towels, or microfiber cloths all work pretty well)

u/Davian80 · 1 pointr/finishing

I've refinished more than a few 100 year old doors. If you want bare wood and stain it'll take time and care, if you're going to repaint it'll take sightly less time and care. Depending on condition just a simple paint scraper can do the trick nicely. If there's a lot of detail you'll want a contour scraper like this

https://www.amazon.com/Allway-Tools-Contour-Scraper-Blades/dp/B000BQMZ9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=paint+scrapers+for+wood&qid=1566143184&s=gateway&sprefix=paint+scraper&sr=8-14

If it doesn't scrape easily my next move is a heat gun and a putty knife. You'll still want the contour scraper if there's a lot of detail.
I've also used one of the electric paint strippers called "the silent paint remover". IMO it covers more ground at once but you can accomplish the same thing with a simple heat gun. Depends what you want to spend I guess.


I've had good luck with these methods on many doors and I've never had to resort to chemicals, at least on doors and windows I've done. As another poster said, chemicals will just get everywhere if you're not using sawbucks.

u/kojo2047 · 1 pointr/finishing

If you have some other colors and finishes in the nooks and crannies that can end up looking like a naturally agreed piece of furniture when you're done. I use a dye for color, and a gel stain wipe to do this on purpose and it makes the piece look 50+ years old instantly. Try applying your finish over a piece with molded edges like on one of the drawers or something and see how it looks. If you hate it you can always paint over it. Honestly tho that dresser is too beautiful for paint, I think it's going to turn out great with a stain or dye finish.

Edit: General Finishes Water Based Dye — it's very forgiving on application, and you can thin it with water to lighten it. I seal over this with shellac and then apply an oil based gel stain, slopped on heavy and wiped off gently for that "antiqued" look. I sealed with more shellac as I didn't use dewaxed so I couldn't use a wipe on poly.
here's a picture of my dresser, it's kinda hard to see but if you look along the trim you can see it's much darker in the crevices, that's the gel stain doing its thing.

Hope this helps!

u/Beerandababy · 1 pointr/finishing

I would be very careful with your decision. A countertop can be considered a food-contact surface, yes? You should strongly consider a food-grade sealer. Most sealers are highly toxic.

I recommend using a food-grade varnish. It’s far more durable and long-lasting than mineral oil, but not as much so as other sealers.

[Here is my favorite for cutting boards and such. ](General Finishes SBQT Salad Bowl Finish, 1 quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSXD7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lJn9AbRCA13JH) It isn’t cheap, but eating toxic substances won’t end up being cheap either.

Edit: hopefully a working link?

Btw: it’s waaaay cheaper anywhere else but amazon, for some reason.

u/montyberns · 0 pointsr/finishing

Guy on here was giving out discounts on this stuff to get people to try it and give some feedback. I used it on a few salad bowls and some spoons and it was pretty ok, but definitely not a hardening/protective oil. Definitely food safe.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K8U7KIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/87_north · 14 pointsr/finishing

Arm-R-Seal is an oil-based urethane. You wouldn't want to use a polyurethane over it; you're essentially finished. 3 coats of that stuff should be fine, adding any more is kind of unnecessary. The only time you add more layers of finish is when you're working with tung oil, shellac, or high-end finishes like conversion poly/lacquer.

Your best bet would be to possibly shine this up with some Johnsons Paste Wax that you can buy at Lowes or Home Depot if you don't use Amazon. Wait a week or 2 to let the finish gas off, and dry up a bit more, and use this paste wax every 6 months to a year. It's been around forever, and works really well.

Edit - If you haven't, make sure you've sealed the bottom of the butcher's block as well. You don't want one side sealed, and the other unsealed; granted, this type of butcher's block with multiple pieces glued together will not move as much as a panel glue up would, but it's still a good practice to always finish the bottom as well.

u/bryce831 · 3 pointsr/finishing

A clear pour over epoxy would be best. The water base varnish would not stand the test of time and you would eventually have the same peeling problem. Epoxy is bulletproof and isn't that hard to use. Something like this would work well.

u/patrad · 2 pointsr/finishing

This is a good one. Lots of recipes and good explanations. I also like Teri's promotion of step boards so you can see the progression of different steps on your own https://www.amazon.com/Foolproof-Wood-Finishing-Revised-Publishing/dp/1565238524/ref=dp_ob_title_bk

u/nickzornart · 0 pointsr/finishing

So what about stuff like these? Not oak, but still wooden, and these are dishwasher safe. Seen them in a number of restaurants too, so it can't be that uncommon.

Round Woven Wood Snack or Salad Bowl: 10" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PI2OLE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_klB7CbTR6JMDS

u/scherlock79 · 2 pointsr/finishing

Unfortunately, repairing porcelain enamel surfaces isn't a DIY job. There are some products for bathtubs and there are high temperature enamel paints, but those aren't porcelain enamel coatings. There are companies that can refinish the item for you, like this one, http://www.ipe-porcelain.com/, no idea if they are any good though.

If this for an oven, and the part doesn't actually touch food, I'd contact Rustoleum, they make high temp enamel paints for grills, I'd imagine an oven a similar enough to be okay, though you might need bake in the finish before cooking food in it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010O0C94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_x0J3BbHXPYC45

u/one_zer · 1 pointr/finishing

Do you have any specific Flexnor book in mind, are they all the same, or should someone read them all:

u/fapiholic · 1 pointr/finishing

Hmm it's a huge table top (5ft) so I don't think I can get a nice brush all the way across. Do you think I can use this? Minwax 622224444 Polycrylic Protective Finish, 1 quart, Matte https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017NNJQIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7F7HDbSNGSCE8

u/PurelyNicole · 2 pointsr/finishing

It made my cabinets super shiny, which is what I was going for. I misread your post as you were looking for a shiny finish.

IIRC correctly, I got the paste wax + steel wool idea from Understanding Wood Finishing, and I can't seem to find where i put my copy. I think there was a technique in there for a stain finish as well. Might be worth checking out (your library likely has a copy).