Best products from r/finishing
We found 25 comments on r/finishing discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 52 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish (Fox Chapel Publishing) Practical & Comprehensive with Over 300 Color Photos and 40 Reference Tables & Troubleshooting Guides
- Latest technical updates on materials and techniques on wood finishing
- Over 300 color photos that help you distinguish between products, make decisions, and solve problems
- More than 40 must-have reference tables and troubleshooting guides, and much more
- 310 pages softcover
- ISBN- 978-0875967349
Features:
3. 3M Sandblaster 20320-G-4, 9" x 11", 320 Grit, Sandpaper, 4 Pack
The product is 4PK 320G SandpaperElegant and smooth finishThe product is manufactured in China
4. Howard Butcher Block Conditioner and Cutting Board Oil 12 oz, Food Grade Conditioner and Oil, Great for Wooden Bowls and Utensils, Re hydrate your Cutting Blocks
- REVITALIZING FORMULA BLEND prevents drying and cracking of hardwoods and bamboo. Great for restaurant cutting boards, great for home kitchens even chef cutting boards. This is the safest conditioner and will rejuvenate and revitalizes cutting boards. Great size for restaurants and industrial kitchens.
- HOWARD BUTCHER BLOCK OILS ARE TASTELESS AND ODORLESS. Vitamin E cutting boards will absorb oils and great at protecting the lifespan of the wood. Apply the butcher block oil to the board and the ingredients penetrates into the wood surface. Formula is great for wooden utensils. Prevent cracking and drying of unfinished wood
- Howard's BUTCHER BLOCK CONDITIONER IS THE SAFEST butcher block conditioner on the market.
- FOOD GRADE MINERAL OIL with Vitamin E. Howard Natural oils provide another level of protection High quality pure natural food grade mineral oil Ideal for salad bowls wooden spoons and wooden toys Benefits
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5. Wagner Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max HVLP Paint or Stain Sprayer, Complete Adjustability for Decks, Cabinets, Furniture and Woodworking, Extra Container included
- HVLP PAINT SPRAYER: The Control Spray Max paint sprayer uses high volume, low pressure technology to atomize materials into fine particles and provide a smooth finish on door trim, decks, furniture, more
- USE WITH A WIDE VARIETY OF MATERIALS: Powerful two-stage turbine makes it easy to paint walls and surfaces with thinned latex paints and thinner materials like stains and poly
- ADJUSTABLE SETTINGS: Customize your paint flow by using the pressure control dial and material flow adjuster to receive the perfect finish every time. Turn the air cap to spray round, horizontal, or vertical
- GREAT DESIGN: The stationary base is connected to the spray gun with a 20 ft. hose to easily reach your painting project and reduce hand fatigue. Also includes a 1 ½ qt. cup and professional grade metal 1 qt. cup
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6. Scotch-Brite Light Cleansing Hand Pad 7445 - Mild Abrasive Hand Sanding Pad - White Hand Pad - For Metal, Vinyl, Porcelain - 6" x 9" - Pack of 60
- NONWOVEN HAND PAD IS DESIGNED TO RUN CLEAN: Light-duty nonwoven hand pad performs light cleaning on a variety of metals as well as wax mold deflashing
- USE IN PLACE OF A MORE AGGRESSIVE HAND PAD: Very mild abrasive provides gentle yet thorough cleaning
- GENTLE TOUCH FOR LIGHT CLEANING: Conformable web and fine mineral are excellent for fine finishes; also works well with liquid detergents
- CONVENIENT ALTERNATIVE TO STEEL WOOL: Performance is similar to steel wool grade 0000 without rusting or splintering
- PRECISION CONTROL FOR EVERY NEED: May be used by hand, with a hand pad block or on an in-line sander
- RECOMMENDED APPLICATIONS: Light cleaning and light scuffing; Ideal for gentle cleaning on vinyl, porcelain and other delicate surfaces
- For industrial/occupational use only. Not for consumer sale or use.
- Ideal for gentle cleaning on vinyl, porcelain and other delicate surfaces
- Light-duty non-woven pad performs light cleaning on a variety of metals as well as wax mold deflashing
- Very mild abrasive provides gentle yet thorough cleaning
- Conformable web and fine mineral are excellent for fine finishes
- Performance is similar to steel wool grade 0000 without rusting or splintering
- Works well with liquid detergents
- May be used by hand, with a hand pad block or on an in-line sander
Features:
7. Allway Tools Soft Grip Contour Scraper Set with 6 Blades
Item Weight: 8.8 lbCountry of Origin: United StatesBrand name: AllwayToolsItem Dimensions: 1.5"L x 5.75"W x 10.25"H
8. General Finishes Water Based Dye, 1 Pint, Medium Brown
- Ultra penetrating wood Stains
- Designed to work like solvent-based Stains
- Deep rich tones enhance wood grain
- Can be applied with foam brush, rag, pad applicator or spayed.
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9. General Finishes Wood Bowl Finish, 1 Quart
- Safe topcoat on wooden bowls, cups, spoons, decorative wood countertops or other wood surfaces that come into contact with food
- Created to be safe on wood surfaces that contacts food
- Not for actively used butcher block counter tops that are used for chopping and cutting
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10. JS Bartow and Sons Salad Bowl Finish, Food Safe, Plant Based Formulation
100% Food Safe - Plant based oils with coconut base. No fumes, curing time or VOCs. Completely safe for food and skin contact.Protects Wood - Penetrates deep into wood to prevent drying and cracking, while preventing water accumulationEnhances Color - Brings out coloration of wood without any added ...
12. EPOXY Resin 1 Gallon Kit. for Super Gloss Coating and TABLETOPS
- Super Gloss Durable Finish
- Water resistant
- Self leveling
- Odorless
- Detailed instruction included with each kit
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13. Foolproof Wood Finishing, Revised Edition: Learn How to Finish or Refinish Wood Projects with Stain, Glaze, Milk Paint, Top Coats, and More (Fox Chapel Publishing)
- Compatible for 2003-2011 Honda Element (detailed application below; pls check your car information before purchse)
- Fully loaded complete unit is safe and easy to install. Guranteed fit and function.
- Replace Complete Strut Assembly NO#: 171101L,171101R, 172136,172135
- Guaranteed Exact Fit for easy installation
- Please check your car information before purchase.
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14. Wood Finishing 101: The Step-by-Step Guide
- Used Book in Good Condition
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15. Round Woven Wood Snack or Salad Bowl: 10"
Durable, wooden bowl.Top rack dishwasher safe.Made of durable, woven wood.Perfect at the bar for popcorn, chips and salads.Great for snacking indoors and outside.Each bowl sold separately.
16. Rust-Oleum 7778830 High Heat Enamel Spray, 12 oz, Bar-B-Que Black
- Rust-Oleum Specialty High Heat Spray retains color and finish up to 1200º F.
- Apply to grills, wood-burning stoves, radiators, engines or other metal items
- Provides rust protection.
- Durable, corrosion-resistaint
- Do not use in areas directly exposed to flames (e.g., inside of grills or fireplaces).
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17. Applying Finishes: Techniques, Tips, and Problem-Solving Tricks (Woodworking Series)
Used Book in Good Condition
18. Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish
- Used Book in Good Condition
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19. Minwax 622224444 Polycrylic Protective Finish, 1 quart, Matte
- PROTECT WOOD SURFACES – Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish protects and adds beauty to your interior wood projects, including woodwork, furniture, doors and cabinets. The clear top coat protects against scratches, spills, dirt and more.
- CRYSTAL CLEAR FINISH THAT LASTS – The crystal clear finished offered in this protective coating is ideal for use over all Minwax Oil-Based and Water-Based Stains and colors, as well as all wood species including light woods like maple, ash and birch.
- MATTE SHEEN – Give your wood projects a sleek finish with this matte clear varnish. It not only protects the natural beauty of the wood, but offers a soft, unique sheen for a modern, cozy and on-trend look. It’s non-yellowing, non-ambering and low odor.
- ULTRA FAST DRYING – Get more done with this protective poly coating. It’s a fast-drying clear coat, which allows for quick recoats after 2 hours, letting you get projects done faster. Be sure to apply with a high-quality synthetic bristle brush.
- EASY CLEAN UP – This water-based wood finish allows for easy soap and water clean-up, so you don’t have to stress about spills and big messes.
Features:
First off, I always recommend "Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner. It's pretty simple straightforward advice and it's only $15. https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665
Here's what he recommends:
>WALNUT
>
>Walnut is America's supreme native furniture hardwood. It is a hard, durable wood with a beautiful figure and rich, dark coloring. It has a smooth, medium-porous texture that accepts all stains evenly, and it finishes nicely with any finish. The coloring of air-dried walnut heartwood is a warm, rust red. The coloring of kiln-dried heartwood, which is commonly steamed to reduce heartwood and sapwood color variations, has a colder charcoal gray cast. As steamed walnut ages, the gray warms to a tan with a slight reddish tint. The reddish tint in aged walnut makes it difficult to distinguish from mahogany in old furniture.
>
>There are two finishing problems presented by walnut: the color contrast between the dark heartwood and the almost-white sapwood, and the coolness of steamed walnut.
>
>There are four ways to overcome the color contrast between heartwood and sapwood:
>
>• Cut off all the sapwood so you're using only heartwood.
>
>• Arrange your boards so you use the color differences to decorative advantage.
>
>• Bleach the wood to a uniform off-white color and then stain it back to whatever color you want. (See "Bleaching Wood" on page 80.)
>
>• Stain the sapwood to the color of the heartwood with a dye stain, and then stain the whole to the color you want.
>
>Woodworkers making one-of-a-kind furniture usually choose one of the first two methods: They cut away the sapwood or they use it decoratively. Bleaching walnut was common in factories when blonde furniture was popular in the 1950s. Today furniture factories use stains to blend sapwood and heartwood.
>
>You can warm the tone of walnut by staining it or by putting color in the finish. You can use any type of stain, though a gel stain will not bring out the full richness of the figure. Most finishes contain a natural amber tint that warms the wood a little. Orange shellac contains the most color, and it is often used on walnut for this reason, though it's not a durable finish for tabletops. Water-based finishes are totally devoid of color, so there is more reason to use a stain under water base than under any other finish.
>
>Personally, I like just about any finish on walnut. I've used oil/varnish blend, wiping varnish, and film finishes. For objects other than tabletops, my favorite finish is orange shellac because of the warmth it adds to walnut (Photo 17-12 on page 268). When using other finishes, I often add warmth by staining the wood (a dark rust, commonly sold as American walnut) or adding dye to the finish (again, dark rust) and toning the wood.
​
The only thing I'll add is "test, test, test". Don't try your ideas out on the final chest. Use test pieces of walnut to see how you like the results.
Well, regarding the sanding, my rule of thumb is to sand moving up through the grits until the sanding marks disappear. How high I go with the grits depends a lot on the tool I'm using (hand sanding versus orbital sander versus random orbital sander),species of wood, and what finish I plan to put on it. Hand sanding following the grain is pretty forgiving, because the scratch pattern blends in with the grain. Orbital sanders tend to leave a scratch pattern across the grain which stands out. Random orbitals are better, but still leave some swirls across the grain. If I'm going to stain it, sanding marks will show up much more strongly than if I was just going to clear coat it. Every project is different, but typically I'll sand to at least 180 if I'm staining, and at least to 120 if I'm just oiling and clear coating. In truth I usually go higher than those numbers, but if I'm in a rush I can get away with those as minimums. I've used it on a couple of projects and have been quite pleased with it.
Now, all that said, the amount of sanding you do doesn't really change the porosity of the wood. Rough sanding will leave a more toothy surface, but that doesn't make much difference to an oil or other penetrating finish, because it will soak in as deep as the cell structure of the wood allows regardless of how smooth it is. Paints don't penetrate, they just cling to the surface, so leaving a more toothy surface does benefit them. I looked at the primer you linked, and I'm still not quite sure what to make of it, but it seems to me to be something along the lines of what I've seen called grain conditioner, which is basically a thin oil that penetrates and soaks into the wood to sort of level out how the wood absorbs subsequent layers of stain or dye or whatever. It basically helps prevent blotchiness. Since it is a penetrating substance, it shouldn't really matter how much you sand it.
Since you seem to be having dificulty finding a final finish, I might suggest OSMO Top Oil. It's a hard wax oil that both penetrates and leaves a wax film on the surface. It's meant specifically for kitchen countertops, so it should be able to handle hard use and abuse, and it's easy to apply more as it wears over time.
Edit: Before you read, these two pieces of wood started the same. The one on the left is the "bad" version based on how I used to finish things.
I'm absolutely no finishing expert, but I've spent the past couple of months getting ready to finish a major project. I have used a lot of shellac and other varnishes in the past, but generally like oil-based poly. Here's now I do it.
This advice probably applies to all woods, but I've been working with Walnut and Maple recently.
http://i.imgur.com/ZywuN6X.jpg This is a bit of a bad example as I didn't fill the grain (and haven't really polished yet), but this shows why sanding matters. If you don't want ridges where the grain is, you have to sand. Again, not the best picture, but sanding and putting on thin coats, slowly, will get you the finish you want.
I'm absolutely not an expert. Just someone that's been frustrated sharing what I've learned. Here's my latest table-top with coat #2 on it.
http://i.imgur.com/DpqiIvO.jpg
Finally, not all sandpaper is the same. For 320, this is the best stuff around. Lasts forever and doesn't clog: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PPD1CYA
On my end, I've learned to hate tung oil. It's pricey, the real stuff takes a month to dry, and if it's drying faster than that... it was probably linseed oil I just overpaid for. :-/
Linseed oil has a great feel to it, but works best for dark woods or over dark stains; it'll yellow more than true tung oil over time.
The problem I see with your original plan is that the stain will mostly seal the wood, so the oil either won't soak in to give any protection... or the oil will re-wet the stain and pull up the color, which isn't a win. Oil works best on it's own, or maybe mixed with a dye, but
Bob Flexner's books are also fantastic here. If you have time to spend, this is used as a textbook for classes on wood finishing.
https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Select-Finish/dp/1565235665
So going all the way back?
Yep... if you are using it for food prep, then definitely don't stain it. What you want to use is Food Grade Mineral oil. You can find it in the grocery store near the laxatives (yep, people use it as a laxative).
Basically it helps to think of cutting boards as a sponge; to be effective it's needs to be damp, in this case with mineral oil.
You can also buy food grade finishes that are a mix between mineral oil and various waxes. You will be shocked at how fantastic it looks after you wipe it down the first time. I make cutting boards and you can see here what a good board looks like with just mineral oil.
Here's our instructions on how to care for wood cutting boards.
Here's an amazon link to john boos products the oil is just oil, and the conditioner is oil with some waxes mixed in.
Good luck!
I have a Wagner that’s very similar to the one you’re looking at and actually really like it a lot. I’m just a weekend warrior, so it works very well for me. If you plan on using this thing daily, then you can’t go cheap. Get a better sprayer. But for quick, smooth, and easy painting at a good price, you can’t beat these sprayers.
As far as clean up, I use hot water immediately after I’m done and have never had issues. You’ll need to take it apart and use a toothbrush too. You may need to clean it with diluted paint thinner every now and then, so keep some handy. And learn how to thin paints. It makes a world of a difference once you start using the correct viscosity for the paint/stain/finish you’re using.
You're welcome. Tried & True is so easy - wipe it on, wait at least an hour, wipe off any excess. Wait 24 hours. Apply 3 coats this way. Then you can burnish it with 0000 steel wool (or the white 3M abrasive pads which I prefer). I use these pads, and I bought a 20 pack on Amazon and I use them to get stuff off pots and pans in my kitchen as well: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Cleansing-Aluminum-Silicate-Length/dp/B00EW7M5S2/r
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Make sure you apply it with a lint-free cloth (either a really old, well laundered tshirt, blue shop towels, or microfiber cloths all work pretty well)
I've refinished more than a few 100 year old doors. If you want bare wood and stain it'll take time and care, if you're going to repaint it'll take sightly less time and care. Depending on condition just a simple paint scraper can do the trick nicely. If there's a lot of detail you'll want a contour scraper like this
https://www.amazon.com/Allway-Tools-Contour-Scraper-Blades/dp/B000BQMZ9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=paint+scrapers+for+wood&qid=1566143184&s=gateway&sprefix=paint+scraper&sr=8-14
If it doesn't scrape easily my next move is a heat gun and a putty knife. You'll still want the contour scraper if there's a lot of detail.
I've also used one of the electric paint strippers called "the silent paint remover". IMO it covers more ground at once but you can accomplish the same thing with a simple heat gun. Depends what you want to spend I guess.
I've had good luck with these methods on many doors and I've never had to resort to chemicals, at least on doors and windows I've done. As another poster said, chemicals will just get everywhere if you're not using sawbucks.
If you have some other colors and finishes in the nooks and crannies that can end up looking like a naturally agreed piece of furniture when you're done. I use a dye for color, and a gel stain wipe to do this on purpose and it makes the piece look 50+ years old instantly. Try applying your finish over a piece with molded edges like on one of the drawers or something and see how it looks. If you hate it you can always paint over it. Honestly tho that dresser is too beautiful for paint, I think it's going to turn out great with a stain or dye finish.
Edit: General Finishes Water Based Dye — it's very forgiving on application, and you can thin it with water to lighten it. I seal over this with shellac and then apply an oil based gel stain, slopped on heavy and wiped off gently for that "antiqued" look. I sealed with more shellac as I didn't use dewaxed so I couldn't use a wipe on poly.
here's a picture of my dresser, it's kinda hard to see but if you look along the trim you can see it's much darker in the crevices, that's the gel stain doing its thing.
Hope this helps!
I would be very careful with your decision. A countertop can be considered a food-contact surface, yes? You should strongly consider a food-grade sealer. Most sealers are highly toxic.
I recommend using a food-grade varnish. It’s far more durable and long-lasting than mineral oil, but not as much so as other sealers.
[Here is my favorite for cutting boards and such. ](General Finishes SBQT Salad Bowl Finish, 1 quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSXD7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lJn9AbRCA13JH) It isn’t cheap, but eating toxic substances won’t end up being cheap either.
Edit: hopefully a working link?
Btw: it’s waaaay cheaper anywhere else but amazon, for some reason.
Guy on here was giving out discounts on this stuff to get people to try it and give some feedback. I used it on a few salad bowls and some spoons and it was pretty ok, but definitely not a hardening/protective oil. Definitely food safe.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K8U7KIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Arm-R-Seal is an oil-based urethane. You wouldn't want to use a polyurethane over it; you're essentially finished. 3 coats of that stuff should be fine, adding any more is kind of unnecessary. The only time you add more layers of finish is when you're working with tung oil, shellac, or high-end finishes like conversion poly/lacquer.
Your best bet would be to possibly shine this up with some Johnsons Paste Wax that you can buy at Lowes or Home Depot if you don't use Amazon. Wait a week or 2 to let the finish gas off, and dry up a bit more, and use this paste wax every 6 months to a year. It's been around forever, and works really well.
Edit - If you haven't, make sure you've sealed the bottom of the butcher's block as well. You don't want one side sealed, and the other unsealed; granted, this type of butcher's block with multiple pieces glued together will not move as much as a panel glue up would, but it's still a good practice to always finish the bottom as well.
A clear pour over epoxy would be best. The water base varnish would not stand the test of time and you would eventually have the same peeling problem. Epoxy is bulletproof and isn't that hard to use. Something like this would work well.
This is a good one. Lots of recipes and good explanations. I also like Teri's promotion of step boards so you can see the progression of different steps on your own https://www.amazon.com/Foolproof-Wood-Finishing-Revised-Publishing/dp/1565238524/ref=dp_ob_title_bk
So what about stuff like these? Not oak, but still wooden, and these are dishwasher safe. Seen them in a number of restaurants too, so it can't be that uncommon.
Round Woven Wood Snack or Salad Bowl: 10" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PI2OLE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_klB7CbTR6JMDS
Unfortunately, repairing porcelain enamel surfaces isn't a DIY job. There are some products for bathtubs and there are high temperature enamel paints, but those aren't porcelain enamel coatings. There are companies that can refinish the item for you, like this one, http://www.ipe-porcelain.com/, no idea if they are any good though.
If this for an oven, and the part doesn't actually touch food, I'd contact Rustoleum, they make high temp enamel paints for grills, I'd imagine an oven a similar enough to be okay, though you might need bake in the finish before cooking food in it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010O0C94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_x0J3BbHXPYC45
Do you have any specific Flexnor book in mind, are they all the same, or should someone read them all:
...Are the Flexner books mostly about brushing/rubbing on finishes? Any recommendations for good books on spraying a finish for a beginner? Like explaining the various setups (HVLP, etc.) and the finishes available?
Hmm it's a huge table top (5ft) so I don't think I can get a nice brush all the way across. Do you think I can use this? Minwax 622224444 Polycrylic Protective Finish, 1 quart, Matte https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017NNJQIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7F7HDbSNGSCE8
It made my cabinets super shiny, which is what I was going for. I misread your post as you were looking for a shiny finish.
IIRC correctly, I got the paste wax + steel wool idea from Understanding Wood Finishing, and I can't seem to find where i put my copy. I think there was a technique in there for a stain finish as well. Might be worth checking out (your library likely has a copy).
Flexner's book is the go-to that I know of - https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665