(Part 3) Best products from r/flyfishing

Congrats on the great x-mas gift. It is a great way to get into the sport and should be great for bass.

For the leader, I would go with a 16-20lb leader. I use furled leaders for bass with a 20lb tippet. This is not a must have but I've found it works really well with large flies and also fighting bass that might get tangles up in the weeds. A straight 20lb leader also works, bass are not leader shy.

Furled leader example:
https://www.feather-craft.com/wecs.php?store=feacraft&action=display&target=GC004

Tippet:
1x at the smallest. I use 20lb fluoro, a bit cheaper buying in in larger spools.
http://www.amazon.com/P-Line-SFC250-20-Fluorocarbon/dp/B003XGK6JS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1425254351&sr=8-8&keywords=20lb+fluorocarbon

As for flies - I'd recommend a mix of popper and subsurface. Depending on where you fish, I'd guess that 80%+ will be caught subsurface. Find you local fly store and see what they suggest but the following would be my generic bass selection for just about anywhere.
-Popper (Sneaky Pete is a good one, anything w rubber legs and lots of movement)
-Dalhbert diver (if I had one 'surface' fly to pick for bass, this would be it)
-Wooly bugger (better if has rubber legs on it, also good w/ weighted eyes)
-Mouse pattern
-Clouser Minnow
-Frog pattern (I like the Umpqua frog pattern)
-Gurgler

Sounds like you'll be fishing in weeds, so get them with weed guards if you can. Makes a huge difference.

As for colors, get a range of different colors. Dark Colors ( Black/blue/purple) for low light conditions or cloudy water. User natural/bright colors when the sun is up and/or the water is clear (
red, orange, yellow, chartreuse, white)...

A chartreuse/white clouser is probably the best default color pattern in the world for warm and salt water fish. It'll work on everything from bass to most salt water species.

A black wooly bugger is always a good fly to start with. Everything will eat it. Olive green is good and I've had great luck w/ yellow ones for bass.

Also - don't forget panfish. An 8wt will be a bit heavy for them but they are great to learn on. Find some water you know is loaded w/ pan fish and practice on them. Use flies size 8-12 for them - they will normally eat just about anything. Floating patterns like Chernobyl ants, beetles and small popper are tons of fun w/ pan fish.

Some bass can be really picky - you'll need to 'match the hatch' with them. If they are used to eating crayfish, then you should try a crayfish pattern in the right color to match the local crayfish. If the water is full of bluegill, try a bluegill baitfish pattern.

Good luck!

Sure those can help, nothing about casting has changed per se, but there you may find modern instruction to be a lot less rigid. There's been more of an awareness in recent years that there is more than one way to skin a cat.

I used to dabble in competition distance fly casting, for example, and I was told on many occasions that an open stance cast (like Lefty teaches) could never deliver a fly more than one hundred feet. I would just strip off the line, lay the fly down at 105 feet or whatever, and ask them to explain again why it was impossible. They couldn't -- they were all operating on received wisdom.

The machine I described was invented by Bruce Richards, who ran the Scientific Anglers fly line lab for many years, and Dr. Noel Perkins of the University of Michigan. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fly_Casting_Analyzer

That machine helped show that a good caster makes the fly rod behave in the same way, even if the caster himself may stand a little differently or drop his shoulder a bit more, etc. Humans have different physiques, so biomechanically there is more than one way to make the rod do what we need.

The best casters in the world are all built like fireplugs and tend to cast directly over their shoulders, so they can maximize the strength of their back and chest muscles. That is the traditional method of casting, but personally I question whether the way they do it is required to make those massive casts or if it is just confirmation bias. The only time I ever stood on a podium and made a distance cast in competition with those guys, I think my best shot was 108', and Steve Rajeff (the best caster ever) used the same set up to throw 112' and win the tournament. I am absolutely nowhere near as good a caster as Steve Rajeff, and what that suggests to me is that style doesn't matter; it's just discipline and experience that count. Rajeff happens to be in the over the shoulder school, and is also the best caster in the world, but there's no telling what he might have been if he had decided to cast the way Lefty teaches for his whole career instead.

I'm probably overkilling on the explanation for a guy like you who is just starting out, but the takeaway is that you can learn to cast in several different ways and all will work. I think Lefty's is the fastest pathway to success.

One more excellent book once you get going: "Troubleshooting the Cast" by Ed Jaworowski. I think every angler should own this book and I believe it to be the most effective written tool in existence once you take the first step past 'rank beginner'.

https://www.amazon.com/Troubleshooting-Cast-Ed-Jawrowski/dp/0811729427

Great book full of easy to understand diagrams.

Last thing, here is a piece on ten common mistakes and how to fix them:

http://www.itinerantangler.com/blog/podcasts/2016/01/13/ten-most-common-casting-errors-and-how-to-fix-them/

Quoting myself, because we get this type of question all the time.

> * Avoid the starter kits. The vises are generally crap and the materials are usually only enough to make a handful of flies. A good vise is going to be somewhere between 100-200 dollars, but certainly worth the investment. See here. I use a Peak Rotary Vise, and it's built like a fucking tank. You could certainly buy a starter tool kit (bobbin, bodkin, scissors, whip finisher, hackle pliers) but I wouldn't spend much more than 20 or 30 bucks on it, because you'll be upgrading them all eventually. The bare minimum I would say to get is a bobbin and a pair of scissors.

• Start easy. You're not going to be tying fully dressed salmon flies from the start. Your first flies are going to look like shit, but trust me, they will still catch fish. My first fly was an ugly scud imitation with some dubbing and a bead taught to me by a local angler, and to this day, is still one of my most productive patterns. If you want a good book to start, I'd suggest Simple Flies by Morgan Lyle. Certainly not a complete guide to all flies, but it's a basic book and has some nice history on each of the flies.
  
  > Find out what patterns are hot/successful in your area, along with the standards (Wooly Buggers, San Juan worms, PT and Hare's Ear nymphs, etc.) and buy materials accordingly.
  
  > Buy materials in bulk once you've got a decent repertoire of flies. Hooks tend to be the most expensive part of most flies (generally 15-20 cents per for most dry, nymph, scud and streamer hooks) so buy them on sale if you see them. Daiichi, Tiemco, Gamakatsu are all fine hooks and run about $20 for 100 hooks. Dry fly hooks are more fragile/brittle, so I don't cheap out on those, but for other styles, the quality may not be as important and you could buy other brands. Also, don't be offset by the price of Capes. $40-60 dollars for a bunch of feathers seems expensive at first, but you should be able to tie 100s of flies off one good cape. The Whiting Hackle Starter Pack is a good start for about $65 if you want to start tying dry flies. In the end, you're using maybe 50 cents worth of material (at most), for a fly that you would by from the shop for 2 or 3 bucks. The real cost is in time, but there is nothing more satisfying than catching a fish on your own fly.
  
  > Look to see if your local outfitter or TU Chapter has any Fly Tying nights. It's a good way to meet local anglers and you can learn quite a bit from them.
  
  > Crimp your barbs or buy barbless. When, not if, you hook yourself with a barbed hook, it sucks.
  
  > Buy 2 pairs of scissors, one fine tip/razor for small work and a heavier duty pair for cutting hairs, yarns, etc. Don't ever use your scissors on any wire. Learn how to tie with the scissors in your hand, it will save you a ton of time.
  
  > Youtube is a fantastic resource for video and instructions. I find it much easier to learn than trying to copy recipes from a book. Search for InTheRiffle, Davie McPhail and Jim Misiura. Thousands of high quality videos with just about every fly pattern you will ever tie. Don't be afraid to do something different either. Use whatever tricks and techniques work best for you.
  
  Feel free to PM me if you have any questions

In general the guy you talked to sounds a little misinformed.

There is a style of fly called a Spey fly or a Dee fly, but the naming of that category has nothing to do with how the style of fly is fished. For a book on te history of and how to tie Spey and Dee flies, check this out: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1571882324?pc_redir=1411103876&robot_redir=1

Spey flies are just a style of fly, just like Spey casting is a style of casting using a two handed rod. One of the larger pieces of information that lacks clarification with most people is that the vast majority of people throwing two handed rods today are not really Spey casting, for the most part two handed casting in the US is Skagit style (even a good portion of "Scandi" fishing in the US is still Skagit style casting). "Spey" has become a catch all term to mean casting two handed rods, even though that's a bit of a misnomer.

So, when somebody says you can't fish a "Spey fly" on a single hand rod, it leads me to be pretty sure they're confused. I think this person is using the term "Spey fly" wrong, and probably really means the new school big articulated/intruder flies that are often very heavy, not aerodynamic, very difficult to overhand cast, and largely fished on two handed rods. If that's what this person means, they're not that wrong. While you could throw a Trailer Trash, Signature Intruder, Suskwha Poacher, etc with a single hand rod, it certainly wouldn't be very much fun and it would probably suck a lot. Those flies really are best fished on a two hand rod, but that does not make them a "Spey Fly".

If anything, actual Spey flies are typically so much lighter than the bigger articulated flies that those would be easier flies to fish on a single hand rod.

I think what this person was trying to say is that big heavy articulated flies are next to impossible to fish enjoyably on a single hand rod, I think they're right, but those flies are not "Spey flies".

Observation is your best friend. Learn to recognize what's on/in/under the water. Check out Handbook of Hatches by Dave Hughes for a good basic guide to what trout eat and flies to match them. The Mayfly Guide by Al Caucci (PA fishing legend) is more specific but a beautiful little book. Trout Streams of Pennsylvania by Greg Landis is a great guide to our wonderful state's streams and often gives specific advice regarding what hatches may be found on a particular one. Edit: No Hatch to Match by Rich Ostoff is a great guide for all those times that there aren't bugs on the water.

I'm also in SE PA (Philly) and would be happy to meet up and wet a line. Drop me a PM if interested.

I did it twice last year. If you're not needing to wade too deep, here's what I suggest:

1. Tenkara rod (as others have mentioned). Super lightweight, no reel, super packable. With EX Keepers I can store it already rigged up, too.
   
2. Neoprene wading socks and closed-toe water shoes - I have the Simms variety but these look similar. They fold up to come almost to your knees. MUCH lighter and easier than hauling waders/boots around.
   
3. Lanyard, or a very small chest pack. No vest.
   
4. Mountain House dried meals. If you have a Costco nearby, they sell a big box of them for half price.
   
5. A small camping stove system, like this.
   
6. A long-handled titanium spoon. Only utensil I bring. Works PERFECT.
   
7. A Sawyer Mini water filter, and a 1-2L Platypus to hold enough fresh water to fill my stove mug for cooking.
   
8. Clothing: wool socks only. Cargo shorts that can hold a fly box. A base layer to function as a sweater, and a tiny-packing rainjacket to use as a shell. Good boots for hiking. Ex Officio boxer briefs are the shit.
   
   I also started hammock camping which helped cut down on size/weight a little.
   
   This worked really well for me. Here's why:
   
   

• Packable, lightweight, convenient
  
• If you're fishing, you're near water. Don't pack water, just bring the Sawyer filter.
  
• Fishing gear clips/straps to the outside of the bag. Quick and easy to use, and dries on the outside.
  
• Small stove + spoon + those meals are super easy to use, taste good, and add very little weight.
  
  Pic of packed gear
  
  Tiny fish

To be honest...the price point for a vice that'll last years and years seems to be about $75. A few of the reputable manufacturers make their first tier vice at that level.

If you don't want to do that...I think you have the right idea on a cheap starter vice. I'd recommend just getting something you know you'll burn out in a couple years. They're simple vices for like $25.00 but would do basically everything you need.

It seems like the $50ish vices I was looking at are basically just more expensive $25 vices in my opinion.

So I'd say get a cheap one to make sure you're into fly tying. That way you can learn what you like and make sure the investment will be worth it. Then when the cheap vice wears down... you'll feel more comfortable in spending $100ish on a vice..knowing it's something you'll use. Or... just buy another of these, rinse and repeat.

If you don't end up tying much, you're only out $20-$25.

Something like this, available most anywhere is great. Or...an old Thompson Vice, if you can find one is a great choice.

Colorado Anglers 102 Supreme Vise https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5YSAV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EqJkDbDY909W2

Great response, and even better to have the discussion!

1-Dead on accurate about external environmental factors. They're a huge part of the problem we'll all be facing in protecting our watersheds for years to come. They along with heavy pressure and careless habits on diminishing waterways, of course.. ;-)

2-Couldn't agree more here. This is a major issue and one we should all be aware of and conscience of as we're on the water. Treat each other w respect and welcome newbies into our past time. It will pay dividends going forward (although this has nothing to do with simply naming spots out loud on online forums.. again.. ;-) )

3-Yup. And there's quite a few written for our great state. This being one of my favorites. Chock full of great info. Guess how many ppl who will be first in line to ask 'Where'd you catch that fish' own said book (or one like it) and have spent the time to read it and explore? Exactly. None of them.

So again, it goes back to spending the time, respecting (whether it be through messaging and personally reaching out to, or buying and reading the book and doing your own research) their efforts, and understanding both sides of the coin when it comes to someone's decision to not name drop right off the bat. I'm highly interested in catching trout on a fly, protecting and maintaining cold clean water, and sharing that experience w my son and anyone else who wants to enjoy that time with me.. ..all while not being a 'bro' and wearing my 'straight brim cap.'

Cool. I just don't know what your background is in this kind of stuff.

First, and foremost (if you're not a outside cooking guy), don't cook over flames. It sucks for a lot of reasons. Cook over coals. Yeah, you gotta wait for them to get ready and it takes a little more wood but that's why you have your little foldy saw and hatchet, right? Moving on.

Lots of ways to make yourself a little cooking area. From fun and not so effective, to very effective but not fun, and everything in between.

Easiest is to just have a small grill. Those little low-to-the-ground fellows work great (partial to the Weber Smokey Joe myself). But if that's not campy enough for ya, just get any regular broiling rack, and throw it over the coals. I don't think I need to explain how to set up the rocks to set the rack on. You can grill and set pots/pans on it, too. Try not to use pine/cedar wood.

When you can't have fires for cooking, regular Coleman gas stove can't be beat. $40, sturdy, reliable, lives basically forever. One of the last "buy it for life" items left today.

If you plan on cooking trout, de-ribbing them is almost a must and it's actually a hell of a lot easier than most people make it out to be. Rather than explain it, just watch this guy. He takes the spine out, but I never bother. On larger trout you're really going to want to remove the pin bones, too. If you're going to smoke them over fire, soak em in salt water first for a little bit if you can, then pat them dry.

If possible, try not to have your cooking area too nearby your camping/sleeping area. Leftover tasty food remnants attract everything. I once had a mule deer traipse through my camp looking for a banana peel I tossed off into the bushes. Better than a bear, though.

And I don't know if you've seen the little light backpacking wood burning stoves, but there's about a million different versions from $10 to $100, and some of them are pretty cool. Definitely worth checking out if you've got space/budget concerns.

Edit: Just wanna reiterate on the choice of wood: Pine and cedar bad for cooking. Alder, ash, maple, birch, oak, or any of the other hardwoods are fine. Pine's for heat, not for food.

Start here: 49.637572, -114.492626

This is the start of highway 40 - the Forestry Trunk Road. Locally, it is called the 'Trout Highway'. For almost the entire stretch, it is Crown land (which is essentially public access, but God Save the Queen and all that noise), except for the times when you are in practically pristine provincial or national parks.

https://www.amazon.ca/Albertas-Trout-Highway-Fishing-Forestry/dp/0968860303

At the start, it is probably one of the busier sections in Alberta, but gullible cutthroat trout are worth being around a few extra people.

As you go north of the Trans Canada highway, you enter the area of Alberta's wildly underrated brown trout streams. The scenery is just as good, but brown trout are not as easy to catch. But with the practice acquired on the first leg of the trip, you will be prepped.

And as you get close to Highway 16 (also a trans-Canada highway, but not THE Trans Canada highway), the quarry changes from browns to fully native rainbows (often called athabows) and grayling. And bull trout.

Local fly fishing legend wrote this book: https://www.amazon.ca/Trout-Streams-Alberta-Guide-Fishing/dp/0921835175/ref=pd_sim_14_1/130-1085907-3153402?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=APRVCGD6QTPB5RDTC3PG

It breaks down the fishing based on the river basins, which is why the species change.

This drive is filled with breathtaking scenery. Once you are as far north as you would like. On your drive home, you can hit all the big rivers. The Bow River being the best spot to hit in Alberta. Or take Hwy 16/Trans Canada back to Vermont. It is pretty dry between Alberta and Ontario in terms of trout streams, but once you hit Ontario, there are hundreds of angling options, even without a boat.

But you have to be aware that Canada is not as cheap as US, even considering the difference in our dollar. Anything that is a 'vice' has a pretty big tax on it, like booze. You will find food to be about the same price.

My biggest warning is that you might not ever want to leave. :)

Check out this book: Complete Angler's Guide to Oregon

There is some seriously great information in there about forgotten/locals-only fishing spots throughout the state that you might not be able to find any information on from the internet. There is a sizable chunk of the book available for free from google books, but it's definitely worth the purchase.

I've also found that so long as you're willing to put a little hike in, all the rivers or lakes in Oregon are pretty easy to find solitude on. Pretty amazing how easy it is to get away from the crowds, as long as you're ready to walk.

I have a pair of these Simms and they are incredible. Simms just cancelled this pair and started selling a this new one on their webiste, but mine are still available on Amazon, though I'm sure the new ones are great.

Let me mention a few things that I really value in these gloves, that were annoying in other winter fishing gloves I've owned:

-They are relatively thin. Fleece gloves are bulky and get caught on things.
-When removing the flap that covers the thumb and fingers, it has a thick elastic band that keeps it pinned down against your thumb/hand so that the free fabric isn't flapping around and getting caught on your line while casting. And trust me it works, the fabric is entirely out of the way, never gets caught casting. The new version appears to have a button/snap to accomplish this goal.
-the material they are made out of dries really quickly, but also keeps your hands warm if/when wet.
-They appear thin, but I've fished in these in Utah and Idaho in February in temps down to single digits and have been fine.
-They are a little pricy ~60 bucks, but well worth the investment if, like me, you do a lot of winter fishing/spring steel heading. It's the only glove you'll buy.

Well, a good 9ft 9wt is a start and make sure you have a reel that will handle salt water. WF9 line to punch it out and for leader is used to just use straight 8-10lb mono of fluoro - maybe 6ft max.

Flys: Salt water hook - Big clousers both plain and really tarted up colors and half and halfs. That's all you need, IMO.

In the surf or out in a bay against pilings and such, you really don't need to worry much about finesse, IMO. You have bubbles, surf, currents, murky water, debris, etc. Just imitate a bait fish, get it in front of a feeding fish and bam.

As for retrieve, you may want to try the "tuck it under your casting arm" thing: Once fly enters water, tuck your rod at reel end under your arm and strip in the line quickly using both hands. Good way to get a pretty natural saltwater baitfish movement and speed.

*** Always rinse your reel, rod, and line well after saltwater use - especially the reel.

Did a super quick Google and found:

Nice package:
https://www.amazon.com/Redington-Path-990-4-Saltwater-Outfit/dp/B00ISC16K0

That's a perfectly good setup and you could tie yourself some Clousers on stainless hooks in size 2-1/0 or so:

(things like this...mix it up color wise and stay in the 2, 1/0, 2/0 size)

http://www.saltwaterflies.com/minnow.html

I've been to Glenelg a few times, as I go up to that area a few times every year. As far as fishing on Skye goes I have never actually fished there, but there is good fishing in the area around. As far as getting to Skye, you can get the ferry from Glenelg which will put you on the South pretty quickly, however you are right that it will take you a while to get to the North.

Round towards Kyle of Lochalsh there are a number of Lochs that are easy to access and are free to fish, unfortunately when I went there I didn't have much success, but did see very large fish jumping.

If you go toward Strathcarron, the Attadale estate have a number of Lochs that have a lot of small trout in and are also free to fish.

The Lochs in the Applecross Hills are good to fish if you like a little walk and can be fished for a small donation to the Applecross estate.

If you haven't already, I'd suggest getting a copy of Bruce Sandison's Rivers and Lochs of Scotland, it lists as good as every Loch and River in Scotland, who owns the rights, what can be expected, what flies to use etc. Just check on an OS map, see what Loch is nearby and then reference the book. It is a must for fishing in Scotland. I don't have my copy with me currently, if I did I'd have a look for you.

Here's the book. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rivers-Lochs-Scotland-Anglers-Complete/dp/1845027116

Unfortunately I have never fished near Glenelg as it is just a bit too far from where I stay (Lochcarron), but if I were you I would get a copy of that book and I'm sure you'll be able to find somewhere pretty quickly.