Best products from r/fordranger

if you don't care about power ratings and just want bluetooth/usb, Amazon has a Boss radio they sell for $22 with instant coupon Partner this with a $4 wiring kit and you have bluetooth/usb jams for under $30.

Im sure I will get some audio guys downvoting me for recommending an off brand radio, but after using some of Boss' stuff, I can say its hand on heart a decent alternative to the big guys, they sound pretty good and the cost is really low.

Boss even has a couple of decent double din touch screens for under $100, or if you want to go super cheap, Amazon Prime days has a few of the off brand Chinese double dins for under $50 that get extremely good reviews, and typically have the benefit of being able to mirror your smart phone screen and/or play movies. I currently have this guy in my Honda Civic, and it powers the factory speakers better than the original radio, plus it supports Apple Car play, which $160 is a killer deal to be able to modernize any older car with this feature.

You can lift that front end about 2in for free: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TorsionBar.shtml

Super easy and will make it look so much better. If you're in town for new shocks, now is a good time to replace them, lifting the front end will make the shocks not operate correctly. Rancho is the only company that makes them for 1-3in lifted rangers.

This will level it out, but if you want to lift the rear as well, you can throw in an add a leaf pretty cheap. I recommend this over new shackles.

Looks like one of your fog lights is busted off, and so is the plastic valence trim. I bought a pair of LED driving lights off amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HLW18T2/ref=twister_B00HM0Q4P6

They are FANTASTIC for 27 bucks. They only draw 27 watts a piece, so you could wire 4 up total (2 per side) to the stock fog light wiring. I only have 2 and they are just unbelievably great, especially for the price. I wired them up to the stock fog wires, and mounted them on top my front bumper, near the corners of the grill. I also did a wiring mod: http://www.fordrangerforum.com/how-submissions/60478-fog-lamp-mod-1998-only.html

To be able to turn the lights on as long as the headlight switch is on (stock fogs only come on with low beams)

If you live in a rusty area, might want to look into cleaning up your frame with a wire brush and grinder and painting it so it doesn't rust away.

All in all, if you do 4 new shocks, this is about 500 bucks worth of mods. If you don't paint and don't do new shocks it's less than 100 worth of mods, 30 for the lights, 50 or so for the add a leafs. The torsion crank is a free 2in of lift in the front! Makes it look way better. So that's a nice little list of things to start off with.

When I get home tomorrow I can upload a picture of my truck with the front and rear lift, painted frame, and lights so you can get an idea of how it would look.

They are aluminum, Ill see if I can find them online and link them, but my buddy originally bought them and sold them to me. Like I said, theyve been on my ranger, my explorer, and his jeep as well. I highly recommend them, if youre interested in the stance. You do need an alignment afterwards though.

Edit: These pretty much look exactly like mine. Im not sure about the great handling it says it gives, but my wheel turn radius is pretty nice.

Looks like the internal cylinder failed. Looking at the picture though, you are most likely going to be replacing a few more things than just the cylinder. From what I can see in the image, you will most likely need to replace the following:

1. Rear left cylinder\piston (as it failed). (Rockauto < $20 for motorcraft(oem))
   
2. Rear right cylinder\piston as it is just as old. (Rockauto < $20 for motorcraft(oem)) Should also always replace in pairs.
   
3. Bleeder screws for both, as they are most likely seized from corrosion. (Rockauto < $1)
   
4. The hard brake line(s) across the rear axle, with as rusty as it looks, trying to remove it from the cylinders will most likely damage it. (See SSTubes link below)
   
5. The flex hose from the hard line on the axle to the hard line on the frame, as the line(s) on the axle, will most likely be seized as well. (Rockauto $20 for motorcraft(oem))
   
   Check out SSTubes for pre-made lines. It makes it so much easier. I have had to replace a few lines on various vehicles for people in the past few years, and it is so nice to just get them and pop them in. Get stainless hardware as well, not just steel. https://www.sstubes.com/collections/brake-lines/Ford-Ranger-1996
   
   Depending on the condition of the rest of the system, you may need to replace other items as well. The line along the frame may be just a bad as the one on the rear axle. I'm not sure of anything on the front, as I can't see it in any images. The biggest thing would be seized up bleeders on the front, requiring you to replace the front calipers (replace in pairs as well). If the calipers would need to be replaced, I would replace the flex lines as well at that point.
   
   If you have ABS, getting the air out of the line from the ABS unit is easy if you don't have a scan tool that can actuate the ABS module. Once all the hardware is replaced, and the fluid in the system replaced, and the system bled. Take the truck to an area where you can get the ABS to engage (dirt road works nice). Do a series (5-6) of short medium speed (40 MPH) runs with quick stops to engage the ABS. Return home and re-bleed the system.
   
   This would be a good time to do a check of all the pads, rotors, drums, and shoes; as you will most likely will be in there.
   
   If you are going to go in as far as I have listed, save yourself the hassle and just get a gallon of brake fluid, that way you won't have to worry about not having enough.
   
   Additionally, look into possibly getting this ( https://smile.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Pressure-Clutch-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DZE2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=motive+products+power+bleeder+ford&qid=1570622701&sr=8-1 ) it makes bleeding the system a one man job and is so nice. Once you have the base unit, you can also just buy adapters as needed to fit various other vehicles as needed.
   
   Don't feel bad or overwhelmed about all the work and parts that my be needed. It's not as bad as it seems. If you need help, just let me know, and I will do the best I can to walk you though anything. I have an 02 ranger as well, so a lot of stuff will be similar. I just may need some pics to see what you are seeing. I can also send you pics of locations and items on mine if needed. If you are close by, I can always help. With all the parts, this could be done in a weekend. Also, my 02 will be needing this done in the next year or two as well, as the rear axle line on mine is worse than what I can see in yours.
   
   One note about all the items and prices listed, I just made an assumption on the engine size of 3.0L V6, you will want to verify your exact vehicle specs. Prices shouldn't be too far off. I can help with finding that as well if needed.
   
   Best of luck on the project.

They're alright. If you can afford to retrofit, I recommend doing that. Avoid any of the aftermarket lights that have projector lenses. They're all garbage from everything I have heard. The ones I got are nice because they fit the stock light (9007) and fit my pre-existing HID kit. I'm running 5000K Kensun HID's for my fog lights and my headlights (headlights are lo/hi). They're bright as hell but in Texas, it is illegal to run HID's without projector lenses and for good reason. (they spread across the road and are not controlled)


These are the headlights. They feel strong and solid but I had to return two passenger sides before I got one that worked properly. (the halo rings were not acting right).

The wiring was pretty straight forward. I wired my halo rings into the fog light's relay so they kick on with the driving lights.

Another neat little thing to get to complete the badass look are some switch back LED turn signals. I got these.

If you decide to get the switchbacks, don't forget to get the load resisters. Otherwise your turn signals will blink too fast.

Also, it doesn't look like a 98 because I have installed the 03 edge front-end and hood.

I will upload some night photos tonight. its hard to get the lighting right on my camera at night to where you can actually tell how they look. I'll do my best.

This question makes me think a lot of things.

As a smaller truck, if you find a camper shell with any "features" beyond places to sit and sleep (such as a stove, a sink, a furnace), these will take up so much room inside as to make it a very cramped experience.

Not only that, but I think it would hamper handling, acceleration, and maneuverability in ways you might not like.

If you found one for under $500 at all, it would very likely have been used and worn out well past its serviceable lifespan. Decently livable campers are a fairly hot commodity.

I would recommend something more like this, which gets you off the ground and will sleep one comfortably or two if you like to snuggle. Plus the fact that you'd be buying a new item and not someone else's old stuff, you'll have fewer worries as far as leaks or other failure points are concerned.

I don't know if you prefer to pack light or fill the truck bed with gear (I'm of the latter variety), but one of these would complement that arrangement really nicely. The ones they sell at Wal-Mart are less expensive and exactly the same item.

One of those would give you a place to sit, cook, and enjoy the great outdoors in comfort without bringing a truly unreasonable amount of gear along with.

You'll want to use a ford stereo removal tool to pop the old unit out, but you shouldn't have any trouble finding adapters from the truck harness to whatever stereo you want to go with.

Removal tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007TC9LW

I myself have a 2017 Joying android head unit in my truck. I had to very slightly trim the bezel top and bottom around the stock opening to fit the double din size radio. I've also substantially modified my radio itself, adding some heatsinks, fans, and replacing the Chinese amp chip with genuine Pioneer. I hear the newer units are a bit better out of the box though. You can find a photo of this installed in my 2011 ranger on the amazon review for it at: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTQUKK1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews

Looks great! I picked up a pair of these headlights 5 years ago for my 94. They look like the originals. I used my originals screws. Makes it look new again. https://www.amazon.ca/TYC-20-1973-00-1-Ford-Ranger-Replacement/dp/B00ZCLG326/ref=dp_ob_image_auto

They also sell aftermarket center caps for those awesome wheels you just got.

Thanks, I think so too. Really happy with how it turned out. Was able to get the blinker mod done today as well.

Here you go!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00877SL2M/ref=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

I used these, bought from Amazon.

Prothane 6-106-BL Black Body and Cab Mount Bushing Kit - 12 Piece

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVWYPK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Perfect fit for my 94 xlt 4x4. Someday I'll use the rest of the bushings because it's not like the originals are in great shape.

The thing is these are just the bushings. The hardware to attach them is bizarre, expensive and probably rusted solid in your rig.

I cut out the old bushings, used these replacements and built my own mounting solution using grade 8 bolts.

You can buy new hardware from LMC but it's like $100 for each bushing.

Those connectors and the tools to work with them aren't particularly expensive, but you can get by without them no problem:

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If you already have the correct wires Identified (double check) you can cut them close to the connector, strip them and just twist them together and wrap in electrical tape until you feel like it probably won't pull apart.

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For a nice pro look with just a heat gun, you can get these which I really like: https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Sopoby-Waterproof-Automotive-Electrical/dp/B01ILSEEB8?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_15093273011

This is what I just installed on my 94’. It’s pretty easy just remember they are bolts not studs that go through so you have to pull the carpet up to access the top of the bolts

Prothane 6-106-BL Black Body and Cab Mount Bushing Kit - 12 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVWYPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CAT7CbAVMPE1K

On Amazon pioneer makes a shallow 10 inch. I had one for my ranger worked great! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_CPh7BbNBAKVGE

So if I were to get something like this, is there a recommended way to secure it to the floor of the truck?

So all the speakers in the Ranger are easy. Youtube has DIY for everything. The size is 5x8 all around for the ex cab and a total of 4 speakers. I suggest getting the Ford harness I link and soldering the connection to the speakers and then plugging them in to keep a stock look and the solder will help with the door speakers and the door being opened and closed. There is not much wire to work with door side so keep the stock plugs if you can. https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Install-Parts-Aftermarket-1999-2010/dp/B008CPUGMW/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=Ford+speaker+plug&qid=1555364754&s=gateway&sr=8-18

I just put one of these (using this and this) in my '95 and love it so far.

Goodyear Wrangler Radial Tire - 235/75R15 105S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QL66XO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1TAQzb11165HQ

Tires ^

Pro Comp Steel Wheels Series 51 Wheel with Gloss Black Finish (15x8"/5x4.5") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ64ZOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PUAQzbCEXF0XZ

Wheels^

Rides great and gives the truck a mini lift from the stock wheels

Is an amazon link good?

Jtech 10x 194 168 2825 T10 5 SMD White LED Car Lights Bulb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00877SL2M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2vsJxbERGGHGA

Huge fan of these. Pretty cheap, and they look sick. They also push your tires out a little bit. these

For anyone curious here is everything I bought to put it in:

Metra 95-5817 Double DIN Installation Dash Kit for Select 1995-2008 Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, and Mazda Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024L8I02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ij.TCbA70HBKE

Metra 70-1771 Radio Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEWZQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pioneer FH-X730BS Vehicle Cd... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FKW6CIQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Scosche DT1 Radio Removal tools... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007TC9LW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I went with these. I've been satisfied with the results, very bright and even. I've had no problems and I haven't had any go out, even the ones in my license plate light and I've has those for pry almost a year

All bought on Amazon!

• Rims: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ64ZOO
  
• Tires: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QL66XO
  
• Lugnuts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H1I639Q/
  
• Valve stems: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046JGMIU/
  
• Center caps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JYEK0DA

Link

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00877SL2M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_6zPbvb0N633Y7
Are these the ones?