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>Hey guys! Looking for some advice. Recently got asked to shoot some professional style headshots for a friend and need a crash course in flash photography!

Strobist, Lighting 101. [but not really; if this is TL;DR time, skip down to the bolded text].

>I was gifted a free Nikon SB600,

Damn. Would've been nicer if it'd been an older SB-26 or SB-700. Those have "dumb" optical slave mode (SU-4) built-in.

>... I'm going to want an off-camera remote flash for headshots. Do any of you know if I can achieve that with the SB600?

You can, but all your Fuji camera's hotshoe can tell the SB-600 to do is fire. You'll have to put the SB-600 in M mode, and dial in any changes you want on the back of the flash. But you can use really cheap radio triggers to do this, like the Yongnuo RF-603 II transceivers. A transceiver is a unit that can be either transmitter of receiver in the system.

You put the transmitter on the camera hotshoe to act as "master" and you attach a receiver to the foot (or cable it to the sync port) of the flash to act as off-camera "slave."

You'll also want to get some way to hold the light where you want it, and a way to attach some kind of diffuser/modifier (softbox or umbrella) to make the shadows softer and more flattering, particularly if your subject is female.

This Strobist page in the course shows the basics of putting together a lightstand, umbrella swivel, and umbrella. But, it's assuming you're using a flash without built-in radio triggering (i.e., you have to attach a radio receiver to its foot). Also, instead of an umbrella swivel, you could consider using a bracket. The bracket is bigger and bulkier (especially vs. a compact swivel), but lets you attach studio-strobe modifiers (softboxes, octas, etc.) by the mount ring (in that link, a Bowens S type mount), not just umbrellas.

>Has anyone used the Godox 350FF? It seems to be the highest recommended Flash for off Camera Flash,

Actually, the Godox TT350 is a mini speedlight and is best for on-camera use with a mirrorless camera. But it's underpowered in comparison with a regular speedlight because it only uses 2AA batteries vs. 4xAAs or being plugged into an AC outlet. The reason it gets recommended is it's $85, it does TTL/HSS for Fuji bodies (well, the ones that do HSS, anyway). And you can use it as your radio transmitter, because it has a built-in transceiver.

But. A $110 TT685-F is twice as powerful (one more stop), and if you're using it off-camera, the bigger size/weight doesn't matter as much as if you have it mounted on the camera. There's also the $60 TT600, which doesn't do TTL or HSS on the camera hotshoe, but will do HSS as a radio slave if you use one of the Godox transmitters (e.g., Xpro-F, X2T-F, Flashpoint R2 PRo II-F.)

>how does it compare to the SB600 if you've used both?

I haven't used an SB600, but I have used a 430EX; the Canon counterpart, on my Canon dSLRs. And I've used a TT350-O on my Panasonic GX7. (I have a TT685F for my X100T).

The SB600 will be bigger/heavier, but more slightly powerful. It has a better build quality. But it shares one weaknesses with the TT350: the head only swivels 270º. If you're a Nikon shooter, it has a lot of advantages, but as a Fuji shooter, you can't use any of its TTL/HSS or wireless CLS capabilities. The TT350-F will let you use TTL/HSS and it has radio triggering built-in and the S1/S2 "dumb" optical slave modes (i.e., you can trigger the flash off-camera with any simple flash burst), neither of which the SB-600 has.

>I've also been reading that diffusing the flash is important... I was recommended to get something called the "A Better Bounce Card" to help diffuse it. Anyone use this before? Or have a better alternative

Umbrella is a lot better than the attach-to-a-speedlight "modifiers". You really want something at least 2'-3' across.

The softer shadows with diffusion only come when a light source is relatively large in comparison with the subject. Small bounce cards, little tupperware hats, etc. aren't that much bigger. And don't tend to make the light look that much different from bare direct flash.

If you have to get an on-flash modifier, I recommend van Niekerk's BFT flag, and learning to bounce. Bouncing is where you point the head of the flash at a reflective surface (wall, ceiling, big piece of white foam core, someone's shirt front, etc.) And you use the reflected light as your illumination. The BFT flag will block any light coming directly from the head of the flash from hitting your subject, so the only light used is that reflected from the bounce surface. And that reflection has scattered the light to make it softer.

But the more power you have, the easier it is to do that, because the added distance and scattering of the light will reduce how much of it hits your subject. But the huge advantage with bounce, aside from the diffusion, is that unlike direct flash (where you point the head of the flash straight at your subject), you can choose the direction the light comes from (within the limits of how much the flash head can tilt and swivel).

Just me, but it might be easier to just start with a TT350-F or TT685-F and try bouncing, first, before going with off-camera flash. It'll be easier to figure out if all you have to buy and learn at first is the flash and a $1 sheet of black craft foam and a rubber band. Neil van Niekerk's Tangents website is a great place to learn how to use a flash on-camera, before you go hit the Strobist.

Get into the off-camera stuff when you have a bit more flash exposure and flash/ambient balance experience, can save up a bit more cash for the off-camera bits, and have a better handle on what you'll need.

well, you're talking pounds so I'm going to make the safe assumption you're in England.

Here's the options I would look at.

If you want the very latest AF performance, along with 4K video:

• X-T30 (Body only) - 750£
  
• Used XF 18-55mm in Good condition - 249£ | Used XF 23mm f/2 in Good Condition - 319£ | Used XF 35mm f/2 Good condition - 294£ | Used XF 35mm f/1.4 Good Condition 349£ - Here you can choose depending on what you like. The 35/1.4 is a quite loud for video imo, and the 18-55 is the only one with OIS.
  
• Used XF 56mm f/1.2 in Good Condition - 549£
  
• Total - ~1550£ - 1650£
  
  If you are not interested in the 4K video, not having the latest, but still quite fantastic AF performance and want a little more left for lenses:
  
  
• X-T20 (Body only) - 539£ | X-E3 (Body only) - 529£ - Performance-wise these two are identical. Only difference is one X-E3 is "rangefinder" style, while the X-T20 is a more traditional "SLR" style. Your choice really depends on what style you like more.
  
• Used XF 18-55mm in Good condition - 249£ | Used XF 23mm f/2 in Good Condition - 319£ | Used XF 35mm f/2 Good condition - 294£ | Used XF 35mm f/1.4 Good Condition 349£ - Again, choose what you like.
  
• Used XF 56mm f/1.2 in Good Condition - 549£
  
• Used XF 14mm f/2.8 Good Condition - 384£ | XF 60mm f/2.4 Macro in Good Condition - 304£ - | XF 18mm f/2 - 249£ - Maybe a "fun" lens like a very wide focal length with a big aperture, or a macro, if you're wanting to get into that.
  
• Total - ~1650 £ - 1850 £
  
  I buy used from places like MPB because it saves me a lot of money, comes with a 180 day warranty, and their condition ratings are very conservative. I sometimes difficult to find any faults with their "Good" equipment. Maybe a small scratch on the barrel.
  
  Image quality-wise, the X-T30/X-T20/X-E3 are too close to really tell the difference. I have an old X-T10, and while it is still today, a very nice and capable camera, it is showing its age. AF is quite slow and laggy and takes some luck to have it focus in low-light. The newer models are a significant improvement, and not something I'd recommend someone get when they have the means for a better body. I'm personally in no way interested in video, so I'd go with the X-T20/X-E3 option, but that's just me.
  
  In your shoes, if focusing completely on stills, and I'm personally a prime shooter, I'd pick a X-E3, 35mm f/1.4, 56mm f/1.2 and a 18mm f/2.

I own the X100F and the X-T2 with a set of WR lenses. I live in the Pacific Northwest which has similar weather. I just rotate between these two cameras depending on weather and needs. I generally default to the X100F for size and weight reasons. I admit it’s not the most economical solution but overall it works great.

For your situation it really just depends on what you’re willing to put up with carrying. The X-T2/3 with the f/2 WR sealed lenses is very small for what it is but still pretty substantial for a messenger bag. It gets a lot better with the 27mm f/2.8, but that lens isn’t WR. If you think you’ll be out in the rain, like no cover and getting soaked, then you’ll need the real weather resistance. But my experience is situations where you’re going to get soaked are less common than you’d think.

If it were me, given your requirements, for best bang for buck and to do everything with one camera, I’d go for the XT30 and the 27mm f/2.8 as your every day carry. I love that little lens and it is truly a pancake. Then, I’d stock up on these: OP/TECH USA 9001022 Rainsleeve - Small, 2 Pack (Clear) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SF8X1Q4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_12BACbFYFQRRB for when you really want to shoot in the rain, and just try not to soak your camera. My experience with the X100F is you can get away with some, you’re just better off taking precautions.

Edit: for grip, my opinion is you can adapt. Having used everything from the tiniest cameras to a full frame to a hasselblad to a 4x5 I have always gotten used to shooting with what I’m given. If you get it and really feel like the grip is limiting, there are after market options to change it.

Hey. You're not completely shit out of luck. There are adapter out there with "apterture" control. Here is one on Amazon. You just have to make sure that you are looking at Nikon G to Fuji XF adapters. The "G" is important as these lenses don't have aperture dials, therefore any adapters that states they cover "G" lenses means they have built in aperture control.


Alternatively, you can always look into MF non-fuji lenses. Neewer makes a great 35mm 1.7 that you can see here. This lens got me by when I started shooting with an X-Pro1 and was in the same boat as you. I had meant it to be my "fun" walk around/travel camera instead of lugging my full frame Nikon. I eventually did a complete switch to Fuji and invested in their AF lenses. But this is a great quality that's pretty inexpensive for someone who wants to play around with Fuji.


Hope this helps. Cheers. Happy shooting!

• JJC vented lens hood (I don't like the round one by the same brand, but that's just me)
  
• JJC soft shutter release (very cheap and it comes with a rubber o-ring that helps keeping it on), I have it in red
  
• Deadcameras wrist strap (black)
  
• Rosewood hand grip (it was a bit cheaper on amazon.it but it's still a good deal)
  
• I also love the Instax Printer. You can find a used (or grey market) 1st gen (called SP-1) and save a bit.

Accessories I had for my X100T when I owned one:

• Leica M strap (would probably get a different one, but it was very minimal)
  
  
• JJC lens hood of this style; maintains the original lens diameter so the lens cap still fits on it
  
  
• Cheapo thumbgrip (the lensmate one is the nicest and matches colors the best, but it's also very expensive for a thumbgrip)
  
  
• Lensmate soft shutter release. Makes it much easier for me to take photos. Plus, they have neat designs.
  
  Other than that, lots of batteries, memory cards, and trips!

I would recommend only purchasing the Canon New FD series lenses (shy away from third party brands). They are overall lighter and better build quality (the metal bodied ones at least). I own the New FD 24/2.8, 28/2.8, 35/2.8, 50/1.4, and 85/1.8. Since the XT10 is a crop sensor all the focal lengths are multiplied by 1.5 (so the 24mm becomes a 36mm, 28mm becomes 42mm, etc.). I love them all, all preform spectacularly. Here are some photos I have taken on my X-T1 with the 24mm, 50mm, and 85mm. All the photos are straight out of camera jpegs. I have also adapted a Helios 44-2 58mm f2 M42 Screw Mount lens onto my Canon FD/Fuji X adapter with a Canon Lens Mount Converter P (see last image). This setup turns the 58mm focal length into an 87mm. It's great for portraits and the like. One thing to mention is that wide open these legacy lenses have a shallow depth of field which can be a hassle at times. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. I have been learning all this stuff as I go the last 3 months or so

How often do these Massdrop deals come along? I can't take advantage of this one at the moment, but I'd love to in the future.

Amazon has the XT-1 with the 35mm f2 for the same price as the body alone ($799), and this deal on the 18-55 would make a sweet combo. The body with 18-55 is $400 more than the body alone, so getting the 35mm free, and buying this deal is definitely a good one, if anyone's looking: LINK

I think others have mentioned all of the following, but here’s my X100T setup. The thumb grip is a must-have since it makes holding the camera so much easier and more secure. The JCC lens hood is great, and combined with a clear filter means I don’t ever have to worry about a lens cap. The soft release button is nice and adds a bit of flair. And finally, I prefer a wrist strap for this camera, so I made my own (instructions linked below).

https://imgur.com/gallery/bBrfC

• JCC Lens Hood (link)
  
• B&W Clear UV Haze Filter (link)
  
• Lensmate Thumb Grip (link)
  
• Red Soft Release Button (link)
  
• DIY Paracord Wrist Strap (instructions)

Instead of increasing the size of grip, get a wrist strap or something to give you added security. Once you get used to the small size, it would be more comfortable.

A cheap strap like this one gives a better value for money and comfort rather than spending money on grips.

Hoya is better you think? What do you think about this:

https://www.amazon.com/Hoya-58mm-Digital-Filter-Kit/dp/B00309CJIE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hoya+filter&qid=1557840365&s=gateway&sr=8-4#customerReviews

It's quite cost efficient as well.

I use one made by manfrotto - it's a pretty light travel tripod and was about 70€ at my local shop .. work's great with the smaller lenses however for the longer lenses it could be a little sturdier

https://www.amazon.de/Manfrotto-Reisestativ-verwandelbar-Einbeinstativ-Tragetasche/dp/B0734ZBN6X

LOL looks like we are both right.. there are two versions of it!


https://www.amazon.ca/Meike-35-1-7-Aperture-Digital-Mirrorless/dp/B01DJ0UOXA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2PBCPSRCUUQJT&keywords=meike+mk-e-35-1.7+35mm+f1.7&qid=1564089812&s=gateway&sprefix=meike%2Caps%2C198&sr=8-1

A good full camera strap or wrist strap

I’d also recommend some Soft Release Buttons from eBay

Lensmate Thumb Grip

JJC Lens Hood

Another review said that lens would only use the smallest aperture, which is a bit disappointing. https://www.amazon.ca/Commlite-CM-EF-FX-Electronic-Fujifilm-Mirrorless/dp/B07KG336X1/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=Commlite+EOS+to+FX&qid=1554860590&s=electronics&sr=1-1-fkmr0 I found this, but $225 is more than I want to pay..

Thank you for your answers nonetheless.

I have the peak design strap as mentioned below and like it. You can also get a button for the shutter release on Amazon