Best products from r/functionalprint

/u/viljedi suggested a guide for doing this yourself, so here is a quick one:

Parts List:

1 Temp controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JP8DYFK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 Speed conroller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L75LH30/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1x 3/4" NPT 6" long nipple: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PDNEZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2x 3/4" NPT lock nuts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GXF5DU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 12V blower fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CSNEO2G/ref=psdc_11036291_t1_B00B2ARV22 (this isn't what I used, I recycled one that was laying around at work, but something like this should work, you are looking for a high CFM).

You are going to need some form of AC to 12V power supply some wire and connectors, I couldn't find the one I ordered, but lots of options for these, the temperature controller turns on and off a regular AC outlet.

A probe mount holder like this is also nice, but maybe optional: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GXEC2BG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Set up:

Mechanical:

I removed the damper door used a well lubricated step bit on a drill press to cut just big enough of a hole for the NPT nipple to pass through. The metal was pretty soft, so this could probably be done with a regular drill. I then put one NPT lock nut on the nipple and threaded it all the way on, inserted into the damper door with the long end sticking out, and tightened the other lock nut to the inside of the damper door. The printed adapter slides onto the other end of the nipple and the fan is inserted into that. I made the clearances tight, so I didn't end up needing any hardware to secure it, it pretty much snapped into place.

Electrical:

Plug in the temperature controller to AC power, follow the directions in the package for setting the set point.. there is a high and low bound, it will turn on until it hits the high bound, and turn off until it cools to the low bound. I found I had the best luck keep these only 1 degree apart, I set the high to 275°F, and the low to 274°F. Wire the AC outlet on temperature controller to an AC to DC 12V power supply, and wire the 12V to the fan speed controller, and the fan speed controller to the fan. Plug in the probe and mount inside the grill area. The best place to put is just to the fire box side of the meat, near the middle.

Printed part design:

I used SolidWorks, I made 2 sketch planes 2" apart, I sketched the fan outlet shape plus about .030 of clearance on one plane, and on the other plane I made a circle the size of the ID of the nipple (I think my printed dimensions came out smaller, I had to do some sanding to get it to fit). I did a lofted base between the two sketch planes to make a nice transition from the rectangular outlet of than to the circular shape of the nipple. I then made an extrude on the fan end to make a sleeve for the fan to fit in, and extrude the size of the nipple OD +.030 clearance on the other size. I made a split on the nipple side to make a clamp mechanism and put a couple lugs, one side with a hex shaped hole in it for a nut, to clamp to the pipe, but I didn't end up using it, because it was tight enough with out

Glass-filled nylon polymer gripper plates and steel for the two levers:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F738PCE

Steel for everything:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007TYCA8

PLA isn't a good choice for this since it doesn't yield. It shatters without any warning signs.

I guess it would be a good idea to oversize everything quite a bit to make room for thicker walls.

Edit: I'm not sure why safety concerns always get downvoted on this sub, but there really is quite a lot of force involved and the device might be right next to your face when it violently shatters. Regular PLA is brittle. I'd even recommend wearing glasses/goggles when removing supports, because every once in a while a small sharp piece breaks off and flies in a random direction. PLA is cheap and super easy to print, but it does have its fair share of downsides.

Are you a Tesla Model 3 owner? Do you hate not having enough USB ports for Sentry Mode, USB Controllers for in-car gaming and of course, your phone chargers? Do you wish you had easier access to your Sentry Mode USB drive? Have you often wanted a better place for your J1772 adapter so that it remains handy, but doesn't bounce around in one of your cup holders? Do you dream of having a proper place for your sunglasses?

If you have access to a decent 3D printer, you can have all of this! I just posted this on Thingiverse for everyone to use: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3897621. I printed mine in black PETG and the USB hub you want is here on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RM322YY/ (not an affiliate link). You'll also need a short male to female USB extension cable. I got a 2 foot one, but to be honest, it really only needs to be about 10 inches, so, get the shortest one you can find that is at least 10 inches.

EDIT: I've now successfully poured urethane rubber liners for this. I've shared the negative mold for these on Thingiverse and Prusaprinters.org. Here's a nice photo: https://imgur.com/gallery/qU0NPYu.

If you know the screw size of the screws you plan to use, you can use a screw size chart (like this: http://www.accuratescrew.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Table1.jpg)

Don't forget to convert the inches to millimeters ;)

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I just used my digital calipers to measure the size of the screws I was going to use and then added a bit of clearance. If you're going to make functional prints, you'll probably at least want some form of caliper measuring device. ... it doesn't have to be super expensive and insanely accurate.. this would do just fine IMO: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Caliper-Adoric-Calipers-Measuring/dp/B07DFFYCXS/ref=sr_1_18?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1543583874&sr=1-18&keywords=caliper

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Another option which is another "functional print" is to design a plate with ascending hole sizes so you can test fit screws whenever you are trying to decide what size hole to make (kinda nice to have a physical representation of the holes your printer makes) Don't forget to mark it though :)

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HGSBQMC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just went out on a limb and bought a roll of this and it's great! can definitely recommend.

I needed a lid to hold the airlock on my ferments. I have a tried a few options over the years and they are either very expensive or don’t work well. The previous best option was the ReCap lids for wide mouth ball jars whose opening is the perfect size to hold an airlock stopper. However, those are $8.99 a piece and in any particular year I need 20+ lids. So I did some research to see how I could make something food safe and once I discovered a product for that I designed this in OpenSCAD and printed about 20 of them. Then I coated them with the food safe (direct contact) epoxy resin.

The epoxy resin is kind of pricey but factoring in filament costs, the silicone gaskets, and the epoxy resin I only needed 7 of them to break even (compared to the ReCap lids). Anything above 7 was pure savings. Also, I had no idea how much resin it would take so I bought a fairly large bottle. Come to find out a little bit of it goes a long way and I could have gotten away with a smaller bottle. I used ~5 oz to coat 20 lids.

Since I was coating them with the resin the kind of filament didn’t matter but I used PETG so they would survive the dishwasher (the resin is also dishwasher safe when fully cured). PLA is a little iffy at dishwasher temps.

I pulled three 5 gallon buckets of Jalapenos off my plants this weekend so I actually need to print more lids! In past years I have always been limited by the number of lids, this year the limiting factor is going to be the number of airlocks.

Products used:

• Filament — Zyltech Red PETG — http://www.zyltech.com/zyltech-petg-3d-printer-filament-1-75-mm-1-kg-2-2-lbs-red/
  
• Resin — Max CLR — https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQQW553/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Silicone Gasket — https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IUIWSZ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Jalapeno seeds — Burpee Jalapeno M — https://www.burpee.com/vegetables/peppers/pepper-hot-jalapeño-m-prod000810.html

This is on my list of prints to make (although I'll never get the time). For anyone interested a good, small, and family priced wireless charger is the square one from anker. I'd highly recommend it. Link in case anyone wants to try it themselves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KJL4XNY/ref=psdcmw_12557639011_t1_B00Y839YMU

Turkish guy who lives in US here. I am using this bidet ($25 cost) and pretty happy with it so far: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075MMHQX7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Honestly I should just buy a 20 pack of these and then print a frame that holds them all in a circle so the hose can have a perfectly smooth track to go through

A suggestion if you want to make even stronger tools:

You can get chopped carbon fiber PLA+ on Amazon for like $30/kilo. That stuff is notably stronger/more rigid than straight PLA, so it may be worth looking into for applications like this.

Who the hell downvotes a post like this? This is the filament I've been using and its awesome

I added a rubber on the bottom so it doesnt slide there really isnt a reason to screw it down it holds in place really well. I can upload a clip tomorrow if u want.

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https://www.amazon.co.uk/neoprene-rubber-adhesive-strip-thick/dp/B008BSXWLW

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this stuff is great

How does it work? I'd worry about the security of the light and the printed part sliding down the rack arms. Is it easy to remove for charging? With all the effort of printing a part it'd be nice to not have visible zip ties; easier to still if you can see what to cut. When I started printing parts I bought an assorted bolt kit for little projects.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-515pcs-Metric-Socket-Assortment/dp/B074Q4Z2C6/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=5mm+bolt+kit&qid=1568517024&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Digital calipers! There are other methods, and certainly better calipers than this, but these are way more than enough to get yourself started for cheap. I have two nice sets of calipers, but at one point I just bought four of these and keep one in my office at home, one at work, one in the garage, and one more just stashed in a drawer because I use them all the time: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Calipers&qid=1564629857&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For this print all I did was measure the diameter of the cable and the diameter of the knockout. That was enough to give me all the info I needed.

I've found that https://www.amazon.com/Flossaid-Dental-Floss-Holder-Single-Handle/dp/B000LC22R6 works well for me—I like the angle of the floss better than with disposable flossers (which your design seems to copy).

I'm happy to release them if you would like. I'll put them on Thingiverse and link here.

I just received this fan to try out instead of the one I used originally. As a centrifugal (aka radial) fan, it should be able to drive a higher static pressure.

Everything completely stock. https://www.amazon.com/SAINSMART-Flexible-Printing-Filament-Dimensional/dp/B072JCXS4G/

I followed the manufacturers guideline:

- Print slow 15-30 mm/s Printing speed
- First layer settings. (Height 100% Width 150% speed 50% e.g.)
- Retraction disabled. This would reduce messy, stringing or oozing printing result.
- Increase Multiplier(Optional). set to 1.1 would help the filament bond well. - Cooling fan on after first layer.


and it worked!

Sorry Reddit didn't show me any notifications, just came across this on my feed (mobile... ffs)
As the other reply says though, Amazon for the win! Got it on Amazon Canada, Just looked for the widest I could find

Scotch-Blue Painter's Tape, Multi-Surface, 2.83-Inch by 60-Yard https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001EJMS4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-.fWAbJ8PXT9M

If it's a relatively simple shape, you can measure it up with some calipers and be on your way. For most 3d printing applications you don't need to go drop a bunch of money on some Mitutoyo or other "high end" calipers; These would do just fine.

Another trick for something with a lot more shapes to it, is to take a picture of it as squarly straight down as you can with a ruler next to it, so you can import the image as a 'canvas' into your modeling software, scale it until an inch on the ruler equals an inch in the software, and then you can trace the shapes up pretty well that way without having to do a ton of reiteration. Just keep material shrinkage etc in mind when you go to print if you're using a material susceptible to that.

I got a nice digital one on Amazon for about $20. There are cheaper ones but I really like the digital readout.

I know what sub i'm in but seriously dude:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW

You have to factor in the value of your own time.

Cool fix anyway.

I use a 15 cup Snapware airtight box to store my filament. For the 1 kg spools you can add something for the spool to spin on, a bowden connector and a small piece of bowden tube so the filament never has to come out of the box. The 15 cup boxes are a little too thin to handle the standard spools; they touch the sides and don't spin freely. You can get two of the 15 cup containers at Amazon for about $8 each (i found 10 of them at my local grocery store for $7 each). Here's a long link https://www.amazon.com/Airtight-Flip-15-3-9X4X9-Pack/dp/B00T3IBAKY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1JCHE4TW3G73L&keywords=snapware+15.3+cup+slim+rectangle&qid=1551297995&s=gateway&sprefix=snapware+15%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-5. Snapware has some bigger ones that would work better with full spools. Snapware is Corelle.

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You and I had the same mindset this weekend. I made this one.
https://imgur.com/gKVoqOu
Pic sucks I know, here is the model.
https://imgur.com/b8YaQRr

I took this model for my FJ Cruiser
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:176932

Made it a little longer and added the fast inductive charger from Anker and resized it for my Galaxy S7 Edge. Also added the honeycomb for cooling as the previous version caused my phone to overheat while quick charging.

Anker Fast wireless charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KJL4XNY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Anker 30w Quick Charge 3.0 adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RV7KRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I printed the prototypes in PLA and this one in ABS thinking it was going to be the final version, but I tweaked some stuff today. lol.

These already exists as an regular product on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/SteamMates-Compatible-Accessories-Diverter-Redirect/dp/B07MHTQFC5/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=3d+printed+dragon+instant+pot&qid=1574895831&sr=8-1-fkmr1

If you are looking specifically for this 3D printed version you can submit files from thingiverse to a business that prints to order. In fact, if you need a specific design I may even consider helping you out.

Yeah, regular 608s. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C6FL8TW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you're going to make real use of this for hauling sheets, the real Gorilla Gripper is worth the $27 they charge. Unless you want to spend "just a few minutes" modeling and printing... which will be hours and will take days with waiting. Then of course your version will break :D

And not more precise or accurate, see https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ with the same accuracy.

I use basically this (probably a different brand, but likely made in the same factory):

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482953396&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+micrometer