Best products from r/genesiscoupe

I have a BK2 and replaced the low beams and marker lights with LEDs and the turn signals with switchback LEDs.

I used these H7 bulbs for the lows: Cougar Motor H7 LED Headlight Bulbs, CREE All-in-One Conversion Kit - 7,200Lm 6000K Cool White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HKFSRX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4jqXCbAJ2CT5Y

And these adapters: GZXY H7 LED Headlight Car Bulb Adapter Holder Socket for KIA K3 K4 K5 Sorento SportageR Coupe Grand Santa Fe Hyundai Sonata9 Coupe Veloster 2pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J5SCQ1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WlqXCbTQ5G0NQ

These for the side markers: SiriusLED Extremely Bright 3030 Chipset LED Bulbs for Car Interior Dome Map Door Courtesy License Plate Lights Compact Wedge T10 168 194 2825 Xenon White Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186P1MUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PmqXCbB8G4STA

And these switchbacks: https://www.diodedynamics.com/switchback-turn-signal-leds-for-2013-2016-hyundai-genesis-coupe-pair.html



I ended up glueing the adapters onto the existing adapter already on the LED with Loctite. The hardest part was stuffing the low beam pig tail into the housing. It takes a bit k, but it is doable. I uses a 1 1/4" spade bit to drill a hole in each low beam cap for the LED fans to vent. A holesaw bit may work better. Everything else was plug and play. I still need to swap out the turn signal flasher to fix the switchback's hyperblink. I wasn't able to do the high beams because there wasn't enough space to tuck the LED pigtail in there. Any ideas for that?

Anyways it is super bright! Way brighter than the Sylvania zXe halogens I was using before. Fog lights are next then tails.

Intake is easy enough. Exhaust can be done in sections really. You can do a rear cat delete or full depending on your inspection laws as it messes with your 02 sensor. The exhaust comes from the engine, (headers) down to (down pipe) the first catalytic converter (looks like a mesh wrapped pumpkin, sort of) then there is a bolt that attaches to the secondary cat (another pumpkin). This is the easiest to get rid of as it's just 4 bolts and there are a good amount of delete pipes for this part that sound awesome. [Ark] (https://www.genracer.com/ark-performance-straight-test-pipes-3-8-genesis-coupe-2010-2016/?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhrzLBRC3ARIsAPmhsnVassOi6e2hgo6UdOKYJUPTTXsorDA6ffpY8znERbh7a7sJ5F6WJjMaAl_REALw_wcB) is the one I'm looking at if I don't straight pipe (0 cats and muffler = louder then hell!) my car through a custom exhaust. [Magnaflow] (https://www.magnaflow.com/) is pretty popular for the last section that usually includes your muffler (that suitcase looking thing under the rear bumper)

Lights I'd just do led conversations if your plastic is clear. Aside from going with a bk2 (this designation is between different years of the Genesis. You can actually find this on your key if you take it out of the key fob you're a bk1 like me) I haven't found any good aftermarket headlights that have reviews other then "these stopped working after x months. You can do the led conversion on the interior for cheap. [These are the ones I got.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DZ36RLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_K2b64PuXdgJ5z) If you go this way, be VERY careful putting the board leds in as I almost broke one rushing it. If it doesn't turn on the first time flip the led as it doesn't have a - + indicator.

Other small things [door knock stopper] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TY5QKMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_hiC5yd85Np2rz)
[Emblem replacement] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01985Z9CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_4LrDJLIphrpmr)

I could go on but I've been told I'm obsessive when it comes to finding exactly what I want. I'll answer any other question you have to the best of my ability.

Yeah, they really look nice on our cars. I'm super happy with them so far. Braided brakes lines would have completed it but I didn't think about it until the friend that was helping me mentioned I should replace the rubber lines with braided lines.

Price on Amazon wasn't too bad either. Rears and fronts.

I just recently installed an aftermarket headunit in mine. Feel free to ask any questions. As for your questions...

1. Absolutely
   
   
2. Yes, aftermarket headunits don't use the wires from the stock harness that power that adapter. There is an adapter that is supposed to work for it, but I didn't have any luck. I ended up buying a long charging cable for my phone and a long AUX that I ran from the headunit to the armrest cubby and it just comes up through the bottom of it. I can get you pictures if you'd like.
   
   
3. View below
   
   Here's what I bought:
   
   

• Headunit, obviously: http://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/navigation_multimedia/dnx574s/
  
• New console (need): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047XWAOU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Wiring Harness (don't have to have it, but I highly recommend it): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT02PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Antenna adapter (to keep FM radio): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052IJDFS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  I also purchased a USB/AUX retention adapter but couldn't get it to work, apparently not many people have success with it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JYTMTQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Again, I also purchased a steering wheel control adapter but couldn't get it to work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>To start, I want to replace the stock oem head light bulbs. I am looking for a headlight that glows white but not so bright that looks obnoxious or bothersome to the car in front of me. Any suggestions would be great with a link to the actual bulb.

If you have halogens (sounds like it) then you want a H7 bulb. There are lots of H7 bulbs that will glow much whiter than stock but without putting out obnoxious levels of glare. This is your best choice for H7: much brighter than stock and much whiter as well.

Here is some information about H7 bulbs.

Awesome glad I could help! You’ll have to get creative with how you install them since they have they’re own driver box kinda like HID’s (unlike the aux beam where it’s built into the light) So you’ll have to mess with it for a little until you can make it fit, and You’ll need these adapters but you probably already have them if you have the auxbeams. And if you’re looking for fog’s these are what I have and I have no complaints with them, they’re pretty bright and match the same kelvin value as the headlight LED’s

Just did a hand-wash with microfiber towels, wiped the car dry, and then used a product called Nu Finish for the wax. It's like 10 dollars a bottle and is super easy to use - I poured the liquid on the damp towel I washed the car with to apply the wax, then let the wax dry to a haze, and then buffed out with a dry microfiber towel. Wash/wax took about an hour to do myself, which is worth it considering how long a the Nu-Finish stays on.

EDIT: Amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BPSW7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465775620&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Nu+Finish&dpPl=1&dpID=41TQElpWDtL&ref=plSrch

I’d recommend, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NHTXXNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_5PkzDbVWBGSFQ


You might have to redrill holes or the stock sub holes might line up perfectly. The stock sub is dual 2 ohm so its 4 wires coming off. 2 negatives, 2 positives. You can look online to see which ones are the negatives and which are positives. Cut the factory harness off and put the wires right into the new sub. Make sure the polarity is correct.

My stock sub used to pop, i think it’s something to do with the factory sound processing. Make sure that the sub is actually bad because I’d hate you do all of this just to have the same result. I took my stock sub out completely and replaced it with a 12” sub and a Pioneer amp. Sounds MUCH better.

I got this suction cup one with an arm and magnetic tip. Mounted a solid disc on the right side of the center console, to the right of the fan speed knob. Kept the arm in the "collapsed" angle like in the photo. Phone sits pretty flush with the face of the center console on the passenger side. I can take a pic later if you like.

reverse

Something like this for interior.

And these are what I've been using for turn signal, but you're going to need a set of resistors if you do LED blinkers.

For rear, I would recommend the Diode Dynamics Tail as Turn Harness. It also gives you the ability to have twice as many reverse lights. shit is bright.

Ok, first off, "the emblems are recessed"... what?
The spaces where the emblems go on the car are recessed, yes, the emblems (unless you have some weird ones) are not.

If you have emblems like this, they will fit just fine on the trunk, and on the front it's a little tough because the wings that come out to the sides sometimes bump the ridge on the grill around the recessed area. While I pushed mine on and just made really sure that it stuck, without any issues for the last year, you can also shave the back sides of the wings a little with an Xacto or something.

If your wings are like this then you got the wrong ones. That's for the sedan.

Sorry, I forgot to link you the little plastic adapters. It's like a little collar it fits into. Super cheap and that's all you need to get an H7 size LED to fit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J5SCQ1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdo_t1_dn9ADb88PX35V

Beware most of them. They're fine for inside but placing them outside is risky unless you find ones with quality board and construction. These work great in my map-lights and glovebox, but blink like hell randomly in the tag light. I have the same brand of switchback signals like these and they're perfect so YMMV with Grandview lights. YITAMOTOR also makes the T10s similarly, and will blink in the tag. Haven't tried others yet.

Here is an older picture, but it gets the point across.
https://imgur.com/a/HtizYqk


Install is super straight forward but I would HIGHLY recommend getting some plastic interior pry tools because that top display has some fucking clips from hell...legit, the hardest part of the install was getting that bastard out.

• remove plastic segment from center console (all clips. you can literally grab inside of the boot and lift up; it will come out)
  
  
• two screws keeping center current fascia on, pull from bottom straight towards you and try not to bend. You may have to pry edges near the stereo.
  
  
• REMOVING THE BASTARD DISPLAY - again, plastic pry tools are your friend. wedge from the bottom passenger side until you feel one of the clips pop, then pull the whole thing towards the driver side....it will feel like it is epoxied in there, but it will give eventually; just take your time.
  
  
• 4 screws holding the stereo in and chicken is done.
  
  
  OH I TOTALLY FORGOT TO MENTION THIS...if you want to retain factory USB functionality, you need a separate cable
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JYTMTQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Aux will not transfer. You also can not use OEM miocrophone, so that will ahve to be routed, and android auto is a bastard that will lock out certain features unless you have the parking break on....which is stupid....but.....yeah....I basically got it for pandora and that does not require android auto.
  
  
  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L1NLWEM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
(used as my low beams)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KFBPCYC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
(used as my high beams cuz they were cheaper)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01J5SCQ1I?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
(adapters)

In case you’re interested

Here’s the adapters you’ll need

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J5SCQ1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_tVuTCbSTECJTB