(Part 2) Best products from r/germanshepherds

Hey, I know you probably have your heart set on this, so I won't discourage you, just let you know that there are other options. First of all, great choice with the GSDs...they are wonderful and the most empathetic dogs that I've come across. Smart, sleek, athletic, beautiful, loyal...I could rave all day about 'em.

That said, I knew that I wanted a GSD from the moment I saw one...I planned it out for years, waiting for the right time and situation. I had been planning on going to a breeder until my wife brought me a picture that she took of a 8 week old GSD puppy that was scheduled for euthanization. We instantly took him home and he's been the best friend I could ever ask for. Saved my life twice, in fact. 4 months ago, it happened again...this time with a female who was 1 1/2 years at the time. She's fit right in with our family so well (cats and all) and is the most loyal little girl...can't go anywhere without her being right by my side, ready to plop her head down on my feet when I come to a stop.

Now, I'm sure that the breeders you linked to are very responsible and go through extensive background checks, as well as regular check ins on all their pups. However, I'd just like to let you know that you can have an amazing experience with adopting from a GSD rescue. They're everywhere, and they need help. People will always be buying from breeders, but the same couldn't be said for shelters. Sure, it's good to see the sire and dam before deciding on a pup and you don't get to do that with a shelter. However, while my Riley was certainly a handful, if you catch them young (and they're out there), you will have a larger influence on them than their genes.

I hope that you consider the option, but I totally understand if you don't. Either way, prepare to have your life transformed. Once you go GSD, no other dog will do.

Oh, do yourself a favor and buy one of these. Expensive as hell, but worth every penny when it comes to picking up hair.

EDIT: BTW, here is our "pound puppy"

For the rake, I just use something generic (and with two rows) like the one at this link. I'd think anything similar would be as effective and I've seen 'em in the PetSmart discount bins for just a few dollars, too. Even a single row is fine, but I get the impression the double catches more hair per stroke - for whatever that's worth.

In terms of the slicker brush, I use the older version of this brush, but you don't need the self-cleaning bit if you don't want to spend that much. It's just for ease of use. The ones that are shaped like this work pretty well, too.

Basically, they're just generic brushes.. use the rake thoroughly first (I usually go "against the grain") and then come by and clean up with the slicker ("with the grain"). Their coat gleams, it doesn't damage the undercoat, and it does a pretty damned good job.

Get them into training ASAP. They can be a stubborn, headstrong, energetic breed. In the wrong hands, this could be a disastrous combination.

They have razor sharp puppy teeth that they like to put to good use. You will most likely end up with some handsome red scratches on your legs/arms/face/etc. Do not fret, this is normal.

If you did not know already, this breed is prone to hip dysplasia. The occurrence of hip dysplasia is based on mainly genetics, weight, and exercise. Hopefully you got your pup from a good breeder who screens the parents' hips and elbows, as orthopedically sound parents will more likely produce orthopedically sound pups. You can also help reduce the likelihood of HD by keeping your GSD lean and on a healthy food. I recommend Victor Nutra Pro here https://www.chewy.com/victor-select-nutra-pro-active-dog/dp/129281 You can find other good foods on Dog Food Advisor. In addition, here is a chart that illustrates the different body types of dogs: http://www.dummies.com/pets/dogs/how-to-evaluate-your-dogs-weight/ This is just a general guideline of course - the healthy body types will vary slightly by breed. But this is a good starting point. Last point is exercise. Don't put too much stress on their joints at a young age. Ie, don't run them too much, have them jump too much, etc. Keep the exercise low impact at this stage.

I recommend feeding your pup from a Long Wobler, as they can tend to eat fast. You can find them on Amazon here https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ALMW0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502891&sr=8-1&keywords=kong+wobbler

I recommend brushing out their fur with a rake and Kong Zoom Groom. You can also find them on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0062Z0RPA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502790&sr=8-3&keywords=dog+rake+brush and https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AR19Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502846&sr=8-1&keywords=zoom+groom&dpPl=1&dpID=51QkRAxrf0L&ref=plSrch

I would highly recommend crate training. It's one of the best things you could do for your dog. I like the Midwest 48" crate here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QFWCLY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496503032&sr=8-1&keywords=midwest%2Bicrate%2Bfolding%2Bmetal%2Bdog%2Bcrate&th=1&psc=1

Let me know if you have any questions!

I had a rescued shepherd that had major dog aggression issues. She wanted to grab other dogs by the neck. She was also leash reactive. Lovely with people, though.

Biggest piece of advice is don't push the new dog into too many new situations after adopting. Give them at least a month to just get to know your house, your backyard, your schedule. Then expose them to other dogs and people through a structured environment like an obedience class. I could have avoided a lot of problems if I didn't have the attitude of "Oh, I'll train her myself, I don't need a class, I know how to socialize a dog." It's not really about that, so much as they need gradual exposure around people and other dogs behaving predictably, which you cannot get at a public park or other venue. As an added bonus, this method works whether the dog has a great temperament or a bad temperament.

I highly reccomend The Ahimsa Dog Training Manual. Grish is great with reactive dogs and her methods work well with stressed dogs who will not take treats or toys. I couldn't rehab my shepherd well at first because as soon as I took her outside, she would start spitting out treats and she never did play with toys.

She turned out to be a wonderful dog. I could take her hiking on leash, I trialed her in Rally and she won blue ribbons, she was very good in the home and with house guests. If I had focused on her strengths instead of trying to force her to like other dogs, we would have had a much better relationship.

I am borrowing a shock collar from a neighbor (her GSD passed away last year) and it is great with my almost year old puppy. I use it for barking but, I know it would work for any other unwanted behavior. It is a Dogtra 200NCP GOLD and was recommended by one of her family members who trains her dogs for agility work. I like it because it has a vibrate button, a "Nick" button and a continuous button (which has a 12 second limit built in for safety). The Nick and continuous can be controlled by level of static so you can give a gentle reminder or turn up the intensity as needed. Even in the throws of a barking frenzy I have not gone past 38 of a scale of 100. That really got my GSD's attention! I did that once. Now with the collar on he does lots better and usually I only have to use the vibrate to get his attention. Now he comes when I use the vibrate and gets lots of praise for not barking and for coming. When I first started using this collar I always (still do, for that matter) used the vibrate before I would use the nick. I figure fair warning is part of the training and that has worked for me. I think this collar is great. I don't know the cost but, have seen others that do not have the vibrate function and they can be pricey. Just checked and the 200NCP in not available anymore. This is recommended as a replacement: http://www.amazon.com/Dogtra-Element-Mile-Training-Collar/dp/B003SA3YUW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452122673&sr=8-3&keywords=dogtra+200ncp+gold

I hope this helps.

This one! I have had it for 2 years, works great. Easy to clean. I take the whole canister apart every 6 months to clean out all of the hair that gets stuck in there. Has great suction, beater bar does a great job and stays clean. I would definitely recommend it.


Also, it is under $100

Happy to help ! If you want some really good reading material on really effective and great ways to understand, train, and happily live with your dogs, read this
He really is amazing at what he does.

I have this Shark True Pet vacuum. A little pricey, but sooo worth it for my German Shedder. I had 3 huskies at once, and had the Shark Navigator. Loved it! But I accidentally broke a piece and had to retire it. My dad’s had his Shark for almost 6 years now, runs good as new. My brother has a GSD and a golden and also has the True Pet. We aren’t sponsored, I swear. Just like their vacuums!

Super easy to empty and clean too. Never had any issues with mine.

Hey! Of course my advice to you would be to take him to a vet but since you've said that you can't see one for another month and a half, I agree with other commenters that you should discontinue frequent bathing and get him a cone. To add onto this, however, I would give this product a try. It is non-toxic, stops itching, and helps to promote healing and regrowth of new skin and fur. Because it smells (and tastes) absolutely foul the animal shouldn't lick it off either.

It has worked extremely well for my cat when she develops hot spots and has worked wonders for my pup when he cut himself on his belly.

Good luck and I hope your pup feels better.

My girl loves car rides but she loves to move around A LOT. My car isn’t big enough to fit her crate but I do have a steel rope that I have tethered to the anchors under my back seat (idk what they’re called but the thing you would lock a car seat onto.)

It doesn’t restrict her mobility 100%, she can enjoy the window breeze without being able to jump out and she can’t jump in the front seat while I’m driving (which was an issue when she was little.)

this is the one I got when she was about 6 months old and she’s tried to chew through it when she was younger but it’s held up well. (sorry if the link is wonky, I’m on mobile.)

Stay safe! I know he wants to hang out with you but the earlier you teach him that he can’t be on your lap when you’re driving, the better! 💓

Sounds like you know what you're doing. More than adequate socialization is of utmost importance. I like Home Depot for this, but you'll have to figure out if/what triggers he might have since he's 9 months already.

I have a Julius K-9 harness (size 2 for my 70lbs girl), and it's pretty great. Tough, comfortable, light, quick to get on/off, and can attach side bags for hiking if desired.

This is the specific harness I bought. Discounted because they're apparently trying to clear stock.

FYI, I have one of these, and I absolutely love it. It's a little nicer than a leash, in that it keep my pup right where he needs to be next to my bike - not too close, not too far. Leash works ok, I suppose, but I like the bar. In any case, hope you have fun, I know mine loves bike rides.

https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466175470&sr=8-1&keywords=walkydog

Oh shit, I can actually relate to this. I moved in with my GF about 4 months ago. I brought my cat with me and then we got our GSD 2 months ago. Seven (the cat) became difficult. Shitting on the floor while staring at us, growling like Satan had just been jabbed with a red hot iron, all that kinda shit. We bought this plug-in thing by Feliway and within about 2 days she totally calmed down. She went from being unable to be within 20 feet of Blue (the dog) to being able to sitting next to him pretty comfortably. She does run away if he moves too quickly but you would too if there was some animal which was 4 times your size suddenly moving while you’re walking past.

Along with the Feliway stuff, we also dog-proofed the flat. We put a baby gate up in a place where they’d both have equal roam of the place and the cat can decide if she wants to be in the room or not. We bought a tall scratching post so she has somewhere where she can be in the same room as him but not at the same level. We also made sure that she has a safe place where she can hide that the dog can’t get to in anyway. As long as they have a couple places where the dog can’t get to, I’m sure everything will be grand.

If you need anymore tips just PM me, I’m happy to help.

Here’s a link to the Feliway stuff; https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0031TFZRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R86NDbCHHCZ44

Edit; Forgot to mention this. If you do put a baby gate up, put the cat food on one side and the dog food on the other but a little out of the way so they can’t exactly see each other. If you can’t put a gate up, you can do it with a closed door instead. It’ll help them to get used to eachother scents while keeping them separated and let them know that they aren’t a danger to one another. I’d also recommend one of you being on one side of the gate and the other on the other side and feeding the animals treats until they’re eating about an inch away from each other. This also really helped our animals to get used to each other

This is the one we used after we had our gsd spayed at 6 months. It worked really well. It was a lot more comfortable then the cone. Plus she was still able to get around without banging into everything and fit comfortably in her crate.

My mom has older dog that was doing the same thing on his back leg. What's hard is once there's a sore there the only want to lick it more. She ended put him in a cone and wrapping the leg. Thankfully once it was healed he finally left it alone.

Good luck! Stay strong! It will get better!

KONG Cloud E-Collar, Dog Collar, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045Y1JGG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_5TQ.zbFE63ZJY

Highly recommend a puppy class (not petsmart if it can be helped). They will give you structure and provide you with positive tools to help you and your new fur-kid.
Some school specialize in whole family training and I would recommend you attend class with them so that your toddler and hubby can learn how to be consistent with the pup. Everyone on board and everyone consistent will help.
What area/state are you in?

edit: Don't worry about being "ALPHA". consistency is more important. Go to a good puppy class in your area really. Or read/listen to The Art of Raising a Puppy. Also Schutzhund: Theory and Training methods is a good book for understanding where your GSD comes from and it's potential.

My guy licks to lick his leg. He loves to do it when we're gone. I tried so many different methods, including an elizabethan collar, and none of them worked. Then I found the [bite-not collar] (http://www.amazon.com/BiteNot-Collar-7-x-28/dp/B001VP63QS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1395797874&sr=1-2&keywords=bite+not+collar) and his leg is healing up very nicely. He isn't inhibited by it, can still play and get around well, and it's easy to take on and off when we go for walks outside. It's very durable, and I honestly won't ever buy another thing again. It's perfect.

I'll also note that German Shepherds tend to develop hotspots when they're lacking mental stimulation, so also consider getting her some new toys and getting her some more exercise whether its a doggy daycare or going for runs.

These Nina Ottosson puzzles are great! My puppy loves them. She excels on the advanced puzzles. It's great mental stimulation which is also important. I also like to hide treats and toys around the apartment for her to find.

It’s a sling lift/harness made by Labra (purchased through Amazon) that we use mostly indoors to help him get around. Chance has developed DM in his rear legs over the last 2 months and needs extra help around the house, especially when going up the stairs. We’ve found it to work well especially because it’s a simple loop around his belly that’s easily attachable via velcro. Normally, he uses a Solvit rear harness that attaches more securely around his hips and rear legs and comes with a handle for us to use. This is more stable than the Labra harness and is what we use on his daily short walks around the neighborhood. Hope this answers your question! :)