Best products from r/goodyearwelt

Introduction/Acquisition:

I started my GYW journey w/Wolverine 1K’s and after multiple Red Wings, Danners, and Trumans, I got bit by the Alden bug with my Brown CXL Indy chukkas. I decided to sell off some boots and trim down my rotation a bit more to help scratch that Alden itch. I had a few boots in mind to complement the brown CXL chukkas:

• Dark brown wingtip or tanker boot - pretty set on the B+M Tobacco Reverse Chamois Wingtip
  
• Natural or tan smooth or scotch/alpine grain wingtip or tanker boot (whichever model I didn’t get in the dark brown color)
  
• Snuff suede plain/perforated cap toe or wingtip - this could come later as my Red Wing Hawthorne Muleskinner Blacksmiths sort of filled this color need for now, although admittedly a much more rugged boot.
  
  As Alden yearly price increases are now pushing boots upwards of $600+, I’ve been keeping a close eye on the second hand/used market, since most of the boots above aren’t readily available in my size or are on a 4-6 month preorder wait.
  
  Now I already have Indys so I wanted to avoid getting another Indy model and was actually looking at Alden of Madison’s Choco Suede Tanker which they did have in my size ready to ship. But at $634, I just couldn’t pull the trigger without waiting to see if something would pop up on the B/S/T, eBay, or StyleForum.
  
  To my luck, a pair of the LeatherSoul x Alden Choco Suede Ultimate Indys popped up on eBay in my 10.5D TruBalance size, unworn and new in box. I shot an offer and seller accepted and just received them today.
  
  
  Details:
  
  Maker: Alden
  Model: Indy
  Last: Trubalance
  Leather: "Chocolate" (but probably actually Humus) Brown Suede
  Sole: Commando
  Size: 10.5D
  
  
  Sizing & Fit:
  
  Since my last Alden purchase, I’ve done a bit more reading and first-hand sizing. It appears my feet aren’t as wide as I thought and my Bannock measures 10.5D on my left and right smack dab in the middle of a 10.5/11 D/E width. I’ve mentioned it in my other posts and I’ve posted on the Manufacturer Last Sizing Thread, but a 10.5D Barrie fits me the best while a 10.5D TruBalance is a touch roomier, but not unbearable. These fit a bit better than my Indy chukkas, most likely due to be a full height boot, giving me some more eyelets to lace + tighten up and gives me the flexibility to wear thin to heavy weight socks, though dress socks might be too thin. The suede is also pretty forgiving, though I’m sure a 10D would likely be too snug for my foot.
  
  
  Construction:
  
  
  No complaints. The 360 degree storm welt is clean and the stitching all looks solid. Love the nap of the suede and the slight variation in color based on how the nap is sitting. My chukkas have the Alden commando sole as well and it is quickly becoming my favorite in terms of comfort, grip, and appearances. Much more comfortable than the Dainite my CXL Trumans were on, the full commando my waxed flesh Trumans were on, and the nitrile soles on my Red Wings. Clean and subtle enough to not feel too rugged either for year-round wear.
  
  The chocolate suede has so many different color representations in photos, I was a little worried at what they’d look like in person. Some seemed REALLY deep and rich chocolate, while some bordered on gray. The pictures from the eBay listing made them look almost like tobacco reverse chamois and even shades of snuff that I had seen. I’d say in person, my pair falls right in-between the dark rich brown and the gray, and LeatherSoul’s pictures aren’t TOO far off the actual color in my opinion.
  
  Conclusion:
  
  With these in rotation, these will likely check off my first bullet in my list above, although if someone offered me a trade straight up for the reverse chamois wingtips or an alpine grain tanker, I’d probably oblige (wink, wink). As I’ve handled more Aldens (especially the sleeker lasts), I can’t unsee the more roundedness of the TruBalance last. That said, no matter what, the dark brown boots were going to be most rugged/casual boot in my (future) rotation, so no real complaints. I know I should just start wearing them right away, but I’m about to order some Saphir Suede Renovateur and the Saphir Invulner Waterproofing Spray or Tarrago Nano Spray (Can anyone comment on the differences between the Saphir Invulner vs the Tarrago Nano Spray?) to protect from the Seattle wet weather.

• Maker/Model: Romano Martegani [Various models available]
  
• Size: 10 and 10.5 US
  
• Leather: the best :)
  
• Sole: Leather
  
• Price: $200+ (see below)
  
• Wears/Condition: BNWT
  
• Images: See below for examples [images of the real shoes upon request]
  
• Notes: I (somewhat embarrassingly) have built up a collection of a dozen pairs of brand new unworn Romano Marteganis. I love RM shoes and previously worked in a more formal environment where I wore them frequently. As such, I built up quite an inventory of "backup" shoes which it now seems clear I will never need to wear. In addition to all these RMs, I have some new and unworn Allen Edmonds (mocha Drydens in 10.5, brown Jacksons in 10), and Ralph Laurens (made in Italy black Sullivans in size 10.5, made in Italy brown suede Kenley longwings in 10.5, made by Rancourt tan penny loafers in 10.5) which I would part with for a fair price if there is interest.
  
• List of RM Shoes and prices (plus $10 for shipping CONUS - no additional shipping if purchase multiple shoes):
  
• Romano Martegani Turin Loafer black 10.5 - topied - $200
  
• Romano Martegani Turin Loafer brown 10.5 - topied - $200
  
• Romano Martegani Sorrento Punched Captoe Oxford black 10 - $250
  
• Romano Martegani Sorrento Punched Captoe Oxford T Moro 10.5 (fits more like 10) - $250
  
• Romano Martegani Reggio Derby Moc Toe Oxford, Amber 10.5 - $250
  
• Romano Martegani Como Captoe Oxford, Jamaica 10.5 - $250
  
• Romano Martegani Lucca2 Derby with medallion, cognac - this is the same ilcea museum calf used by John Lobb - beautiful! - 10 - $300
  
• Romano Martegani Lucca2 Derby with medallion, black 10 - $250
  
• Romano Martegani Pisa faux wingtip Derby, brown 10.5 - $250
  
• Romano Martegani Pisa faux wingtip Derby, black 10 - $250
  
• Romano Martegani Vicenza Monkstrap, pebblegrain british tan 10 - $250
  
• Romano Martegani Umberto Derby, brown 10 - $250
  
  For those unfamiliar with Martegani, they're were imported by Ron Rider when he was at Franco's and I believe are made by the same factory he uses for his Rider Boot products. All the shoes I have are blake rapid with the exception of the turin loafers which are blake stitched.
  
  I would be happy to answer any questions you have. I would also be more than willing to do a discount for anyone buying 3+ pairs. If you'd like to buy even more, feel free to make me an offer! These all retailed from between $500 and $625 and are all in mint condition with zero shopwear or other wear from being tried on. All ship with the original shoe bags and in the original box. These have been in temperature controlled storage in my home and after some conditioning/brushing with Saphir products have been untouched. If you want to get a quick look at these shoes, google returns reliable results for most models - I've linked above either pictures or product listings that depict the shoes.
  

I bought this exact listing from Amazon. It comes with a pad and the Lexol has instructions on the package as far as application, but it isn't too tough. Just make sure the leather is clean, and try pouring like a quarter-sized amount onto the cleaning pad. You can work up from there if you want to use more at one time. The good thing about Lexol is you can wipe off excess with a clean cloth (I use a spare washcloth) and no harm done.

Personally, I wipe down first with an old rag, then use the cleaner if needed (usually isn't). Then I brush, use the conditioner, and let it sit a while. Then I wipe clean and let it sit for a while again. It's kind of a superstitious process to be honest. If you're conditioning your leather on a schedule and using shoe trees, you're already doing way more than the average person.

Remember that the Lexol WILL darken your leather a little. I tried to show some comparisons in my original post. But the coconut oil will be more in my experience.

Edit: I actually bought the "Like New" version via an Amazon Warehouse deal to save a couple bucks. it was basically just an open box item. Neither bottle had been opened.

> I have no clue how to care for roughout ; any recommendations?

I'm by no means an expert, but all of my boots are roughout, suede, or nubuck (still no smoothout, weirdly) and I've sort of winged it ("wung" it?) to some semblance of success.

I give them a through brushing with a normal horsehair brush to get rid of dirt. I use typical circular and side-to-side motion as I go. Then I sort of "tap" the bristles straight down on the leather, and sort of "flick" the brush as I lift. I do this to fluff up the nap, and undo any patterns the brush has made on its path around the boot.

That's just after a normal day or few of wear. If they're more dirty than normal, I might use a suede brush like this to go over the boot. One side has rubber bristles, and the other has a mix of synthetic and copper bristles.

I first take the rubber bristles and rub in soft circles. Because it's rubber, there's a lot of drag, and it kinda feels like I'm pressing down the nap a lot (and sometimes I wonder if it's just matting it down more than getting rid of any dirt). Then I'll very gently use the other side to "fluff" up the nap again. The copper bristles do a good job of this, but definitely can remove some of it. Like, even if you do it gently, sometimes there will be little bits of the nap left on the brush and sitting on top of the boots that I've got to brush off with the horsehair brush. I've no idea if that's normal, if I'm doing it wrong, etc. But I figured from the get-go that I'd have to be delicate when using something like copper bristles on leather. Using the copper side is definitely not a necessity, and I certainly get a little paranoid that it's being more aggressive with the leather than is necessary, so take that with a grain of salt.

If you want to add some waterproof-ness, you can try Tarrago Nano Protector. I used it after lots of recommendations from users here. My main criteria was that it wouldn't darken the leather, so Tarrago is a winner in that regard. After 20–30 mins of drying they'll repel water pretty readily, though it does wear off over time. I went really light on my applications of the Tarrago, because I didn't want to saturate the leather, but I think I could've used more for better and longer-lasting waterproof-ness.

AOTD: Cost-wise, probably too much. My focus has been on shoes but I'll sometimes purchase some more expensive pieces of clothing.

GD: Found Handmade Shoes for Men at Half Price Books so I went ahead and bought it. Should be a fun reader for those easy days! Also just received the Viberg x Notre Coffee Pack boots that I ordered from the 25% off sale. The cxl is beautiful and the finishing is on point except for a little bit of weird stitching connecting the tongue to the vamp. They fill the brown boot niche of my wardrobe but I'm not sure if they're special enough (to me) to keep so I'll be consulting the SO in the next few days. My body is telling me yes but my brain is telling me to save some $$$.

I'm not the best person to answer this, but in case no one else steps up I'll give it a shot.

1. I think this is a fair assumption. If a seller (especially the manufacturer) itself does not specify the type of leather then it's probably not very high quality. If it was nice leather, it would be in their best interest to advertise that. Perhaps the only exception would be buying from a manufacturer that is well known for having quality products, but even then I would be skeptical.
   
   
2. If you're talking about the creasing of the leather, then yes that's normal, but it can be mitigated greatly by using shoe trees. As far as I know, it's not bad for the leather, but most people like preventing it as much as possible.
   
   
3. I think this is normal too, but it probably wouldn't wear out as quickly on higher quality shoes. But you can clean that up with edge dressing. Just be careful not to get it on the leather.

>I hear mink oil is of dubious quality and in general organic products cause the leather to more quickly deteroriate.

Mink oil and Obenauf's etc. are made for very harsh conditions - unless you're wading through the countryside, it's like putting on a scuba suit when there's a light drizzle outside. If you live in a city, you're fine. Said products will not cause a 'quick' deterioration - it's over a long period of time. They will also cause the leather to darken and lose some of its depth of color.

>What's the deal with cleaning? I'm leaning toward Saddle Soap to clean my boots. How effective is, say, using just a boot brush, regular soap, and wet paper towels to clean dirt from your boots? Can you use a clean t-shirt rag to clean?

Saddle soap dries out leather - it's soap, after all. It's overkill for regular boot care. A damp cloth or rag works fine for cleaning regular messes.

>I'm leaning toward using regular polish and no waterproofers or sealant. Do boots need polish or just shoes? Does polish protect at all? Does the polish process clean at all? I'm assumming you match the polish color to your leather. How important is this match--do you have multiple brown polishes or just one?

Waterproofers and sealant are unnecessary - leather is naturally water resistant and needs to breathe. If they get wet, dry them with a cloth then put in your cedar shoe trees (or crumpled newspaper) to absorb excess moisture. Polish isn't really essential on workboots like those Apaches (since the aesthetic is based around getting them scuffed and beaten up), but it can be used to hide scuffmarks if you want to keep them pristine (IMO missing the point). Polishing doesn't clean by itself, and will probably trap stuff underneath. The importance of the match depends on how specific you are about the boot's color. I don't remember if the Apaches are a pull-up leather, but on boots made of pull-up leather you can get rid of scuffs simply by rubbing them until they disappear.

>I am planning to buy unvarnished cedar trees and a boot brush for cleaning, as they appear to be necessary for the life of the boots. Do you have any suggestions? It seems like most are the same in quality.

Just buy split-toe shoe trees made of actual cedar (instead of plastic etc.). As long as they're in the right size, you're fine.

It appears that you're really overthinking this. Leather is naturally very strong and water-resistant, and doesn't need to be babied with a massive variety of products - at least for a workboot like the Chippewa Apache (high-end dress shoes may require more finesse).

Here's what I do:

1. Put cedar shoe trees into the boots when they are not in use.
   
   
2. Every couple days, wipe down the boots with a damp cloth or brush to get rid of accumulated crap.
   
   
3. Every ~3 months, take out the laces, clean the boots thoroughly with a damp cloth, then clean the welt with a wet Q-tip. Wait for an hour (until they dry), then condition with Lexol and an old t-shirt. Wait for four hours, then re-lace them. Ready to wear. Bam.

Everything must go!

• Maker/Model: Allen Edmonds Walnut McAllisters
  
• Size: 8E
  
• Leather: Full Grain Leather
  
• Sole: Leather
  
• Price: $200 $185 With Free Shipping in United States or best offer. Cannot Trade :(
  
• Wears/Condition: Worn quite a few times with scuffs
  
• Images: Album Here
  
• Notes: I'm a college student in the struggle and need the money for expenses and food, I don't have time to take care of these shoes so I have included Saphir Light Brown Wax Polish + Allen Edmonds Walnut Premium Shoe Polish + Allen Edmonds Chili Heel & Sole Dressing + Jos. A. Bank Full-Toe Cedar Shoe Tree Size Small so you can take care of them and appreciate the art of shoe polishing -- They need a new home from a more caring owner :(
  
   
  
  
• Maker/Model: Allen Edmonds Walnut Strands
  
• Size: 8E
  
• Leather: Full Grain Leather
  
• Sole: Dainite Rubber Sole
  
• Price: $300 $275 With Free Shipping in United States or best offer. Cannot Trade :(
  
• Wears/Condition: Only worn once lightly
  
• Images: Album Here
  
• Notes: I'm a college student in the struggle and need the money for expenses and food. These shoes have been polished to the best of my ability with Saphir Light Brown Polish before I first worn them and after I worn them.

Lexol is a pretty easy catch-all when it comes to cleaning and conditioning, definitely the best bang-for-your-buck, and will minimally color/darken your shoes.

That being said, my new favorite conditioner for oil-tanned leathers (like most IR models) is Saphir Cuir Gras. Much more expensive, but for that you get a higher quality product with more natural ingredients like neatsfoot oil. Also has a very pleasant almond smell.

Shrinking? No, but you can try tongue pads or heel liners. If you have an AE store you can take them too, they're usually pretty great about helping make them fit, including the things I mentioned (I think they do tongue pads).

Edit: Something like this or this.

http://www.amazon.com/Handmade-Shoes-Men-L%C3%81zl%C3%93-Vass/dp/3848003686

It kind of looks like your typical coffee table book, but it's amazing. Super well-researched information on nearly every aspect of shoes and shoemaking, with beautiful pictures.

Hello everybody!

I recently bought R.M. Williams comfort craftsmans and was wondering which shoetree pair from woodlore I should buy!

My current options are Woodlore adjustable cedar shoe trees and the Woodlore epic twin-tube shoe tree pair

I don't know which one is better for the shoe I have (R.M. Williams comfort craftsman in 10.5H UK sizing) I don't know what size and type of shoe tree is best for my boot and was wondering if anybody here had any experiences with something like this and willing to help!

Kiwi horsehair brush this works just fine.

Yes do condition them before you wear it with any of the products mentioned. Honestly dont worry about them too much, the boots are pretty resilient. Dont overcondition though, probably no more than once a month(?) depending on how much you are wearing them. Just clean it up once every few wears with a damp warm rag and brush it out. If it gets into mud/snow then definitely clean immediately after wearing.

1. thanks for the advice, I wasnt going to return them as it will be quite a hassle, will this boot cream work
   http://www.redwingheritage.com/eu/EUR/product/care-products/boot-cream-brown-97112
   Or do you recommend something else?
   
   
2. I think the 9.5 would have fit me better or maybe too loose, anyway I live in eastern Europe so Zappos and Amazon are less generous with their shipping and returning policy.
   I was thinking about buying some ibsoles, there are no supeefeet where I live, but I found these in a store : http://www.scholl.co.uk/home/foot-care/gelactive
   I don't know if I should get them or try others
   
   3)should I buy the lexol cleaner as well? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002F9YIC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472830931&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=lexol+cleaner&dpPl=1&dpID=41P9%2BN9cVfL&ref=plSrch
   If so then how often should I use it and shiuld I condition after if?
   How often should I clean with just a wet rag or a a shoe brush?
   And how often should I use the boot cream?
   
   Thank you very much, since they are my first pair of boot I don't want to over do it or under do it.

My first GYW pair as well, also black cherry. I picked up a Lexol Leather Care Kit that comes with leather cleaner and conditioner. I wore them a few times and then cleaned and conditioned them according to the kit instructions. After each wear I brush them down with a horse hair brush and when I'm not wearing them I put in shoe trees.

I clean/condition them after about 5-6 weeks, unless I get them really muddy or something. There are surely others on this sub with better knowledge of leather care, but this routine has been working fine for me so far. Most will recommend giving them 24 hours to rest after wearing, but, y'know, they're boots.

I own several barrie & trubalance Aldens. I'm an 11D US on the brannock and take a 10.5D in the barrie. Barrie always fits great in the forefoot but the heel's a bit big. Barrie last is known for a large heel. Sometimes I use a thin leather insole (http://www.amazon.com/Pedag-102-Vegetable-Sheepskin-Slightly/dp/B001E531Z6/ref=pd_bxgy_hpc_img_y) for Barrie or Trubalance. Sometimes after break-in the heel settles in for a better fit over time. My old barrie shoes/boots fit better than the new ones. HTH.

I've been lurking for a while but finally made an account to ask this:

I decided to go with Red Wing Beckmans (9023) as my first high-quality footwear purchase. I also purchased a Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush, a Lexol 907 Leather Care Kit, and Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree (Cedar).

My first question is: how should the shoe trees fit into my Beckmans? I went to a Red Wing store and got sized. They said I have wide feet and recommended I get 8.5 (I usually wear 8.5s in regular footwear like Van's and Nike). I purchased the 8.5 Beckmans and I've worn them about 8 times now. Out of paranoia, I double checked with the Red Wing store to see if the boots were creasing properly (as I have a lot of toe space and was worried that it might be too big). They assured me that It was fine. I ordered size medium (8-9.5 size) and They arrived yesterday. I inserted them into the boots but noticed that it was pretty difficult to get them in there and the heel of the shoe tree scratches against the heel of the boot when inserting. I notice if I wiggle the front of the shoe trees in a bit more before inserting the heel, it doesn't scratch the heel of the boot. I apologize if the picture quality is poor , I only have my phone at this time. Is this okay for my Beckmans? Or should I return these for a different shoe trees? I'm worried about them being stretched improperly. If I should get different ones, can someone direct me to a specific shoe tree? Here are some pictures of my 9023s with the shoe trees.

My second question is, do I need any other care products than the ones I listed above? My care regime currently will be to brush after each use, shoe trees for a minimum of 1 day before next wear, Lexol clean and condition once a month and/or after they get really dirty.

Sure! Essentially I bought this lexol set and followed their instructions.

http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395626153&sr=1-4

I used several different rags and probably cleaned each boot with the cleaner for a minimum of 30 minutes each, probably more. Basically just scrubbing and scrubbing until little to no brown coloring would show up on the white rag when I scrubbed it.

After that, I let it dry for a few minutes and then applied the lexol leather conditioner, because the cleaner pretty much strips all of the good oils and stuff out of the leather (disclaimer, I really don't know all that much). I conditioned it again a couple of weeks later just to make sure it wasn't drying out if I hadn't conditioned it enough the first time. That's pretty much it!

I can't say for sure if they are the best, but I've had good luck with the cheapest Woodlore trees on Amazon. I've found their springs to be very tight, so I size down 1 from the recommended size (i.e. I am 8.5-9 and I use Small).

Wearing without the removal insole is perfectly fine. If you feel like the boots are slightly too big with the insoles, I'm a fan of these insoles because they are thin and the leather molds to your feet nicely:
https://www.amazon.com/Pedag-102-Vegetable-Sheepskin-Slightly/dp/B001E531Z6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

I have a pair of shoes or two that fit width and length wise but I have a fair amount of room across the vamp and I think I could benefit from an extra insole. I don’t need an orthotic one so I’m not too certain as to what kind to get. Should it be something like this ? Or should I be on the lookout for something different?

I've had very good luck with these shoe trees on Amazon. They're made by Woodlore, which is owned by Allen Edmonds. These are the same trees as marketed by AE, just cheaper than if they had the AE name on them. I believe they're made in Wisconsin. I use them in my Red Wing Moc Toes and Iron Rangers and they fit very well.

I've been eyeing the brown suede 1K Miles recently. Your rust ones looks great.

Are the boots unlined on the inside, meaning it's just suede without any other leather stitched to it? Does the leather around the ankle ever feel thin or flimsy, especially when worn or taken off?

If you're worried about the longevity of the leather soles, I recommend finding a local reputable cobbler to put on rubber half sole guards. I'm in the US and rubber guards cost me about $38 for a cobbler to install them.

I live in the city and walk a lot, so the rubber guards really help. Otherwise, the leather soles on my shoes would have been eaten through and I would have to pay about $80-100 for a full leather resole.

If you're worried about keeping the leather clean from stains/water, I've read good things about this suede protector.

Also, keep shoe trees in your boots when you're not wearing them. They'll help soak up excess sweat/deodorize them and keep the boots in shape.

I like these, considering they can be dressed up some, although they're slightly out of budget. Check out nordstrom rack, look for brands like Allen Edmonds, Loake, and Redwing.

More casual, you would look at the L.L. Bean Katahdin, which is made by chippewa. It's also slightly out of budget. The key is that the boots I've linked are all stitched construction. Instead of the sole being glued on, they're stitched instead. While they can be resoled easier, the main selling point is the fact that they won't fall apart in less than a year.

Edit: I wore these in highschool and they served me well. Not everyone's cup of tea, though.

unrelated, but related, what is the general consensus on brushes like this?

I got one because I noticed a liquid mark on my pair after my company party. Brushed at it which helped, but seemed to have made the perfectly uniform flesh/suede side a little more variable. Nothing crazy, just wondering now if the brass bristles are too harsh on suede, or if I should have waited longer before brushing at it.

Well you can still get the 6 inch moc toes for [much lower price] (https://smile.amazon.com/Thorogood-814-4200-Moc-Toe-Boot/dp/B001QJ4I5C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469193129&sr=8-1&keywords=thorogood+american+heritage). As for my personal thoughts - I've had them for more than two years and love them. Break-in period is virtually non-existent and they go really well with jeans. They really are a great entry level GYW.
edit: grammar

I just picked up this one from Amazon, mainly because it was highly rated by TheWirecutter. I’m pretty happy with it. Solid construction, can be put together in several configurations for different sizes of shoes/boots (especially if you get the two-pack). The width will fit three pairs of men’s shoes or boots on each level.

Yep! I use these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PEEAOS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01

They fit them perfectly. They're split at the front and are designed to expand when you push them into the shoe.

I use 2 of these shoe racks stacked on top of each other. not so great for boots but like the overall aesthetic. still looking for a better solution

This is more than I could have ever asked for. Thank you very much. By the way, any good books which you would recommend to learn more about shoes?

I was planning on checking this book out.

(You're actually the most comprehensive post I've found so far, StyleForum and all other sites don't really pull up anything on them.)

In terms of better for the price, there is a lot of good options out there if you're patient and look hard. For myself, I paid $90 for Red Wing Iron Ranger Firsts, $80-110 for Allen Edmonds firsts, and $140 for Crockett and Jones Conistons for Peal & Co. However, if you go look for any of these right now, you won't find them, hence the patience requirement.

The thing about Thursday boots is that they're all $200 right now, so you can just drop that and have your boots in a couple days if you don't want to wait.

As far as what's available right now, I found these Wolverine Navy Suede 1000 Mile Seconds for $150, and firsts for $200 with more sizes left. Here's some Chippewas for $165-185, or $186 for these ones. Some Moc Toe Thorogoods for $185, or some Wolverine Kilometers for $150.

So there's an obvious catch here in that availability is limited, while the availability of Thursdays is not, but I do think it's fair to say there are better options out there for the same price or less.

Posted this on the after dark thread but the more input the better:

"I Purchased Chamois Vibergs for a deal (imo) on ebay. Anything special I need to know about chamois? I picked up a brush but do I only use the rubber bristles? Waterproofing or protection? Any pointers would be appreciated."

SQ: Is there anything I else I should be doing to care for my 1ks?

Sorry the pictures might not be the best to judge. Got these as 2nds from STP a while back.

Shortly after purchase, had a local cobbler add half soles.. for some reason he dressed the edges using black polish or something, which eventually wore away.

I'm wondering if he also tried to buff and polish the uppers or something, because I feel like the wear around the toe showed up shortly thereafter and I don't really beat things things up as much as they look like I do.

Half soles started coming off not too long after, definitely not using that cobbler again, haha. Not too worried about the soles though, at some point I'll probably hit up B.Nelson or something for a proper fix.

I'm much more worried about the uppers, so far I've given them the occasional cleaning and conditioning with this basic lexol kit which I mainly got for my Beckmans (which are holding up much better, haha). Should I grab VSC or Pure Neatsfoot or something instead?

I'm thinking I might like something to darken the leather, right now they're a little chalky looking.

Any advice? I've been doing a lot of lurking and searching over the past year but I still feel pretty clueless.

I would see the leather care guide for specifics or if you want to polish them.

Generally, a horsehair shoe brush like this one and some conditioner like a bick 4 or whatever saphir product suits the leather on your shoes should be fine. Just remember to condition sparingly (once every 3-4 months tops).

This Lexol pack look any good? Or should I just stick to the conditioner? What is "leather cleaner"? Just like a more mild saddle soap or like Saphir Renomat?

on the off chance that anyone reads this wondering how things worked out, I find that the shoes fit perfecltly with thicker socks, or very thin socks and a thin insole (this one). Actually, the insole makes them fit a little tight, even with thin socks. I definitely think sizing up was the right move.

There is nothing wrong with have svelte ankles! (That is what I tell myself anyway.)

I use tongue pads to get a good fit with high volume boots. Tongue pad example on Amazon. They stick inside the tongue and let you get more lace pressure on your instep in situations like yours.

You can make your own once you sort out your needs as well.

If you want the best, go with Saphir. At minimum you’ll need:

• renovateur
  
• cream polish
  
• horse hair brush
  
• old t-shirt (for applying reno, applying cream, and buffing)
  
  You can skip the wax polish if you don’t want a high shine. You can use reno’mat to remove the old polish if you want just be careful with it because it can strip the leather of its color.
  
  I also recommend buying some Fiebings edge dressing because sloppy sole edges will ruin an otherwise good shine.
  

I have a pair of boots coming later this week. Although I am hopefully wrong, I am thinking there is a chance they will be a little too big. I have been looking into insoles in case I need to buy a pair. I assume leather would be prefered because it wouldn't trap moisture between the (real) insole/midsole and the new insole I am inserting. However, many of the ones I am seeing (example) are apparently only around 1.5mm-2mm thick. And likely flatten after wearing for a while. For people who find themselves with shoes a half size too big, do leather insoles help at all? Or would I need to be looking to thicker insoles like this or this?

Thanks again, I'll probably head down to a shoe store and try to match colors like you said.

One last question, is something like Bick 4 Leather conditioner better or worse than Lexol leather conditioner?

Would some like this be good to condition natural OSB trenches? I don't want anything to darken them up. I just want to prevent any water damage/ take care of the leather. Should I even bother conditioning them?

I use Bick 1 cleaner and Bick 4 conditioner, nothing fancy; lexol would also work perfectly fine. I prefer the Woodlore 'Epic' trees.

I have 3 of these (just added a third...damn this sub!). They look nice and do the job. Two are side by side, and I stacked the third on top of one. I'm sure in the next year I'll need another.

http://www.amazon.com/Seville-Classics-Resin-Wood-Composite-Utility/dp/B00336TY0K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408905017&sr=8-1&keywords=shoe+rack

Lexol is quite recommended and very cheap. This 1 litre can lasts you very long and is cheaper. There are smaller bottles too, if you don't need so much.

And yes Kiwi works well.

Just to be clear, this is a horsehair brush. On the other hand, this is a horse hairbrush. You want the former, not the latter.

Could anybody stop recommending Obenaufs unless they want to expose the boots to extreme weather? It's over the top. Please.

Lexol is good enough for most of us.

Would you suggest me getting the lexol leather care kit or just the lexol conditioners? Is the cleaner necessary?

My mom's in a different timezone. I'll be giving her a call later today.

GD: My copy of Handmade Shoes For Men arrived. The essential coffee table book for fine footwear enthusiasts.

This sub recommended me to use Lexol for my new Iron Rangers. Is this the package I should be going with? Or a Lexol spray? Thanks!

Sure. Your friendly neighborhood cobbler should have some. Here are some links.

Tarrago Hightech Nano Protector Spray 250 Ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U47QBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KwdHybCCFVVVS


https://www.hangerproject.com/tarrago-nano-protector-waterproofing-spray.html

And the famous Leffot video that changed the suede game.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PnOw_sNVG0A

ok Thanks, is this the same product as you listed before?

Thank you so much! Is something like this what I should use?

This is what I use - works great, and it's cheap. LINK

New to this sub and I've got a couple questions,

1. Can shoe trees damage or warp boots/shoes?
   
   
2. Do I need to buy special "boot" trees for a pair of captain Thursday boots, or will the ones in the link I provide work?
   
   
3. What size shoe trees should I buy if the captain Thursday boots are 10 1/2, do I follow the shoe trees specs or go a size lower to prevent warping the boots?
   
   Thanks guys😁
   
   Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree Pair,Cedar,Large (10 - 11 M US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PEEAOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ucnRDb8FM31AP

One of these days I really need to read Lazio Vass's book, which I've heard is excellent.

I occasionally got caught in the rain while wearing them, but part of my cleaning process involves using this waterproofer to protect my shoes.

I actually made a post about the application process.

Something like this would be fine.

Polish on a work boot mainly boils down to aesthetics. A lot of Japanese dudes seem to do a glossy mirror shine on their redwings.

Not sure just how broke you are, but I bought this 8 oz lexol kit for ~$11 like 2 years ago and I'm not even halfway through it. Comes with applicators, cleaner and conditioner.

No problem! The suede brush I initially purchased was this and it has seemed to work quite well. It's also relatively inexpensive.

I've also used this kit and found it works well.

The first link is more of an all around brush and might work better for your uses.

hey sorry, one more question.

this lexol page on amazon has two 8oz versions of Lexol conditioner. Do you know if one is better than the other?

Is this for yourself or a gift?

If it's for yourself, I personally just bought Kiwi horsehair shoe and applicator brushes. They were ~$5 CAD each... they sell them at most grocery stores and pharmacies in Canada. I can't see the horsehair brushes made by AE or another shoemaker being worth 3 or 4 times as much. I could be missing something regarding their quality that justifies that price though.

I finally got my Iron Rangers in Copper Rough & Tough in. What leather conditioner should I use? Should I get this Lexol kit or Red Wing's leather conditioner?

Also, what kinds of suede brushes do you guys recommend?

I personally use this Fiebing's Leather Sole & Heel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00551BVPM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Allen Edmond also make good heel dressing and saphir has a cream (rather than a liquid edge dressing)

From the site:

>men's lace-up boot featuring a polished burgundy leather exterior and thick brown waxed cotton laces for a classic feel.

I may be wrong, but "polished leather" is usually another term for corrected grain leather, and I have always used Venetian Shoe Cream (VSC) for this. I bought in bulk a few years ago and have come nowhere close to depleting the vat o'VSC.

Another good option might be Bick 4, which I also use quite a bit.

Yes. Although not necessary, it can save your suede/roughout shoes from being ruined.

Link

Hi all! I'm about to get (my first) leather conditioner.

Would you recommend Lexol or Bick 4? I read they are very similar.

For reference I've got a pair of Clarks Bushackre 2 (beeswax) and Bondockers (Fudge) from Golden Fox

http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1013-Leather-Conditioner-1-Liter/dp/B000637TNM

This one says preservatives under the title, but it should still be okay right? When applying do you coat the entire shoe with a thin layer?

I would recommend Lexol Leather Conditioner

I’d consider something like these or these, as long as the shoes aren’t currently too tight, as they’ll take up a bit of room.

I have some of these and if you set up the shelves right, you can get two rows that fit boots per rack.

Thank you for putting in the time to reply. I think I will pick up some Allen Edmond's shoe cream as I am not really looking for a mirror shine.

Is this the Tarrago protector you are referring too?

I have THIS cheap one from Amazon and it works fine.

I can't comment on SofSole as I never heard of it before. Most people here will recommend Lexol Conditioner. It is a light conditioner that won't change the color of your shoes

http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1013-Leather-Conditioner-Liter/dp/B000637TNM

You can also use coconut oil to condition your shoes. It is a deep conditioner, so you should only apply small fingertips of it in order to avoid over conditioning your shoes. I have experience with both and both work well.

These ones worked well.

What are you using them for though? Tongue pads and heel pads have different purposes.

I assume I should be using this for the cleaner and conditioner?

Quick question, is this the correct Lexol cleaner and conditioner mentioned in the sticky thread?

https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-E301123100-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1521777927&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=lexol&psc=1

I'm actually not sure if that's a conditioner or just a leather protector of some sorts, but usually, conditioners are labeled as such. Lexol is what I use, and what is often recommended around here as a general purpose conditioner.

Idiot proof shoe care. Don't use this on shell, don't put it on the outside of suede shoes. I've been told you can condition the inside of suede others have suggested no care is necessary.

Mink oil will permanently darken the leather, FYI. For some, that's not a big deal. For others (myself included), darkening the leather is an undesirable outcome.

Personally, I'm a big fan of Bick 4, and I use it on most of my boots. I condition my boots 1-2 times/year, depending on their use.

Should I buy a brass bristle suede brush or is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IIFFEPU/ref=ya_st_dp_summary adequate?

I'm thinking of using a tongue pad to tighten the area between the top laces and my calf: https://amzn.com/B0030KSCCA

Thorogood puts out the exact same boot available on Amazon this week for $108.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QJ4I5C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've used these from Amazon.

Should I apply shoe wax to a new pair of shoes right as I get them?
I want to achieve a mirror shine along with putting a protective coat.

As for products go, https://www.amazon.com/Saphir-Medaille-Light-Brown-Polish/dp/B002Q0A6CO will this be ok?
I'm following a recommendation to use this color for a walnut finish.

Well damn, I was just in a big city where I could've grabbed a pair. Oh well.

I think I'll grab these, only $20 and I'll get it in time for my boots. Next time there's a sale around $10 I'll grab two or three pairs for future purchases.

How many of you here have read or own 'Handmade Shoes For Men by Lazlo Vass? I find myself going through it every few months.

1 liter.

http://amzn.com/B000637TNM

This?What is the difference?

Thicker socks and insoles. It's also possible to fill up some volume with a tongue pad.

It appears that you have Amazon...
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-8-oz/dp/B005H7DRQA

If not, check this guide https://www.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/1ubpyl/introductory_leather_care_guide/cegfreo

The cost of cleaning and conditioning isn't really dependent on the specific shoe. Given how cheap the products used are in bulk, you're basically paying for his time.

25 bucks will get you this which should be enough to last you basically forever, and 10 bucks will get you this which is the same thing in smaller quantities.

This stuff will do the trick

I had a similar problem with my C&Js, and I used a tongue pad like this. It actually works really well, so that's something you could consider.

Dumb question but this lexol is the one everyone refers to right and not the "non darkening one" or the neadsfoot one?