Best products from r/guildball
We found 18 comments on r/guildball discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 18 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. General Pencil Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver, 1 Pack, Clear
- Keep brushes like New with this lemon-scented Cleaner and preserver
- Even Old, hardened, oil paint brushes may be restored to their original snap and luster
- Non-toxic water-soluble cleaning Compound works safely on oils, acrylics, or watercolors
Features:
2. The Army Painter 2 Part Modeling Clay, 20cm - Moldable Model Putty Modeling Compound for Miniatures, Easy-to-Knead Green Putty Epoxy Clay for Sculpting - The Original Green Stuff Kneadatite
- EASY-KNEAD - Unlike many model putty, The Army Painter Green Stuff putty takes less time to knead.
- QUICK-DRYING PUTTY - Hardens fast; leaves you 20-30 minutes for molding & only 8 hours to fully dry.
- NO-BAKE CLAY PUTTY-Mix equal parts of yellow & blue putty until you get an even green colored putty.
- NO SMEARS ON YOUR HANDS OR TOOLS -Ddoesn’t leave sticky smears; easy to mold and less messy
- GET CREATIVE - Customize your models with the original green stuff kneadatite from The Army Painter
Features:
3. Gale Force Nine Hobby Scenics: Green Static Grass
Green Static Grass is the start of most basing kitsIt is a good looking effect, and very easy to doFor use on Miniature Terain
4. General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z.
- Made In Use
- Will Even Remove Dried On Paints And Paint Stains
- Keep Your Brushes Looking Like New With This Specially Formulated Brush Cleaner And Preserver
- acrylics and watercolors
Features:
5. Rust-Oleum 280715 American Accents Ultra Cover Spray Paint
Ideal for interior/exterior use on virtually any surface including wood, plastic, metal, wicker, plaster, unglazed ceramic and moreProvides long lasting protection with any-angle spray comfort tip that reduces finger fatigue and makes it easy to reach hard to paint placesDries to the touch in 20 min...
6. Gorilla Super Glue Gel, 15 Gram, Clear, (Pack of 1)
- GEL FORMULA: No run control gel formula that is great for use on vertical surfaces
- ANTI CLOG CAP: Helps keep the glue from drying out. It's Gorilla tough use after use.
- IMPACT TOUGH: Specially formulated for increased impact resistance and strength
- FAST-SETTING: Dries in 10-45 seconds. No clamping required.
- VERSATILE: Bonds plastic, wood, metal, ceramic, rubber, leather, paper and more. Not recommended for use on polyethylene or polypropylene plastic or similar materials.
Features:
8. The Army Painter Anti Shine Matt Varnish for Miniature Painting - After Quickshade Matte Top Coat Acrylic Spray Varnish for Miniatures - Matte Finish Spray for Acrylic Model Paint, 400ml, Can
- TAILORED TO REMOVE SHINE AND GLOSSY LOOK : Removes shine after painted with Quickshade or acrylics
- BORN FROM GAMING: Get awesome painted plastic models or craft on the table for a great game!
- RETAINS METALLIC SHINE: Gives perfect matte finish while retaining shine from metal acrylic paint
- GIVES AN ELEGANT AND FINISHED LOOK: Make your miniatures look finished with this satin varnish spray
- WILL NOT CRACK AND CHANGE COLORS: Preserves all colors. If applied properly, it will never crack
- ACRYLIC, NONTOXIC - This varnish is Acrylic-based, transparent matte and dries very quickly
- LET PAINT DRY BEFORE USING: Let the Quickshade dry for minimum 48 hours before using the varnish
- APPLY IN A THIN COAT: Test on a model first before spraying the whole army
- IDEAL PAINT SEALER & CLEAR COAT SPRAY Retouch gloss of protruding details and protect your minis
- NOT IDEAL FOR: Do not use acrylic spray paint varnish in humid conditions and cold outdoor weather
Features:
9. Liquitex Professional Flow Aid Effects Medium, 4-oz
A binder-free aqueous solution with surfactants.Use in conjunction with any acrylic medium or acrylic color when increased flow and absorption and decreased film tension and friction are required.Great for staining effects on raw canvas.
10. Xuron - Xuron - 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter - 170-II
- Type: Micro-Shear
- Style: Flush
- Capacity: 18 AWG
- Overall Length (Inch): 5-7/64
- Blister Pack With Generic Card
Features:
11. Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades, #1 Knife
Great for delicate, precision cutting, trimming, and strippingCuts paper, plastic, balsa, thin metal, cloth, film and acetateComes with a lightweight handleIncludes No 11 Classic Fine Point BladeThis is an aftermarket of generic partGreat for delicate, precision cutting, trimming, and strippingCuts ...
12. SHINA 10x 0.3mm to 1.2mm Carbide PCB Rotary Tool Jewelry CNC Engraving Drill Bits Set, 10Pcs PCB Print Circuit Board Carbide Micro Drill Bits 0.3mm to 1.2 mm
- Shank diameter (SD): 3.175mm
- 10pc Cutting edge diameter (CED): 0.3-1.2mm(0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2mm)
- Total length: 38mm
- Quantity: 10PCS
- Guaranty: Within 90 days product quality isn't completely satisfied, 100% refund or return!
Features:
13. The Army Painter Miniature and Model Files - 3-Piece Diamond File Set of Round File, Flat File and Triangular Metal File - Needle File Set for Metal, Resin, and Plastic Miniatures
- SPECIAL SET OF 3 MOST USED FILE SHAPES FOR SMOOTHING MINIATURES - The Army Painter has carefully chosen highly-used shapes for assembling an army of miniatures in this mini tool set. It comes with rounded, squared, and angular files
- FINE, EVEN DIAMOND GRIT FOR SMOOTH FINISH - Remove flash and mold lines from miniatures and really get into stubborn places without rubbing any details away. These hobby files modeling tools can be used on minis made from metal, resin and plastic
- DURABLE STEEL CONSTRUCTION; STAND FREQUENT USE - Unlike other miniature files tools that are flimsy and could break anytime, Army Painter tough stainless steel material makes these miniature files hold up well and for a long time
- FILE DOWN ROUGH SPOTS WITHOUT LOSING DETAILS - Hobby knives may effectively remove mold lines on metal but may easily carve a chunk out on plastic miniature. These stainless steel diamond files are designed to smooth molding imperfections on mini figures
- RED SOFT GRIP HANDLES FOR COMFORTABLE FILING - Handle detail work more enjoyable with the comfortable and soft grip handles. Ergonomically designed, they allow better control, whether you're hacking off mold lines or taking off bulk of excess material
Features:
14. Lifetime Height Adjustable Craft Camping and Utility Folding Table, 4 ft, 4'/48 x 24, White Granite
All purpose table constructed of powder-coated steel and high-density polyethylene plastic48-inch x 24-inch molded tabletop ; Seating Capacity: 4Folds in half for easy storage and transport; Great for taking on the goThree Adjustable Height Settings; (24-Inch, 29-Inch and 36-Inch)Convenient carry ha...
15. EnderToys Brick Walls, Terrain Scenery for Tabletop 28mm Miniatures Wargame, 3D Printed and Paintable
- 3D printed with eco-friendly PLA plastic, a role playing game model set
- 4 pieces of terrain buildings; perfect for a wargaming landscape!
- Paintable (primer recommended)
- Suitable for medieval, contemporary, and futuristic war game settings and battles
- Best used with 25-30mm scale miniatures
Features:
16. Pillars, Terrain Scenery for Tabletop 28mm Miniatures Wargame, 3D Printed and Paintable, EnderToys
- 3D printed with eco-friendly PLA plastic, a role playing game model set
- 6 pieces of terrain buildings; perfect for a wargaming landscape!
- Paintable (primer recommended), Models supplied UNPAINTED
- Suitable for medieval, contemporary, and futuristic war game settings and battles
- Best used with 25-30mm scale miniatures
Features:
17. EnderToys Chests, Terrain Scenery for Tabletop 28mm Miniatures Wargame, 3D Printed and Paintable
- 3D printed with eco-friendly PLA plastic, a role playing game model set
- 10 pieces of terrain buildings; perfect for a wargaming landscape!
- Paintable (primer recommended)
- Suitable for medieval, contemporary, and futuristic war game settings and battles
- Best used with 25-30mm scale miniatures
Features:
18. EnderToys Tree Stumps, Terrain Scenery for Tabletop 28mm Miniatures Wargame, 3D Printed and Paintable
- 3D printed with eco-friendly PLA plastic, a role playing game model set
- 6 pieces of terrain buildings; perfect for a wargaming landscape!
- Paintable (primer recommended)
- Suitable for medieval, contemporary, and futuristic war game settings and battles
- Best used with 25-30mm scale miniatures
Features:
My best advice: don't skimp on the brush. $15 or so is going to seem like a lot(compared to $8 for 4 brushes at Michaels), but it's 100% worth it. I started with hobby store brushes while I waited for my Windsor and Newton Series 7 to come in. Once it did I was blown away how much of a difference it made. The biggest advantage is the point stays nice and sharp. Even after a year and a half to two years my W&NS7 is still as good as the day I bought it. Part of that is brush care.
If you purchase a good quality brush make sure you buy some brush cleaner/conditioner, and actually use it. I probably use mine once a week(depending on how often I'm using it) and it has kept the brush in pristine condition. This is the cleaner I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Masters-Cleaner-Preserver-Ounces-Carded/dp/B0027AEANE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499795723&sr=8-2&keywords=Paint+brush+cleaner
I haven't done used it yet, but I also have some W&N brush clear that the brush is supposed to sit in for 24 hours.
Another piece of advice is try using a wet palette. They are simple to make and help with the flow of the paint on the models. I was a bit skeptical before I did it, but now that I use one I wouldn't go back to without it. Makes a bit of difference, especially for mixing and blending paints.
Privateer Press and GW have pretty good tutorials. One thing to remember is their painting techniques are different. Privateer works off of mixing and blending the paint. Whereas GW is more about painting using the shades they have available(if you look at their line they have a base, shade, highlight for pretty much every color they have). Nothing wrong with them, just depends on what you want to do. I also really like SchnauzerFace on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPtFEqSumWcgmmLsF6cyFhA
While they aren't explicitly tutorials, he explains exactly what he is doing and why. Great painter and easy to listen to. He does do some magic with the air brush, which is still something I haven't done yet.
Honestly, at the end of the day the best piece of advice is to just start painting! You will get better with every model you put paint on. Do just basic block colors for your first model. Then once you feel you have the hang of it add some highlighting. As you go on you will be more confident and your painting will get exponentially better each time you put some paint down.
Finally, don't be intimidated when you watch YouTube. Remember: a lot of these guys do this for a living. You won't be able to do some of the advanced stuff right off the bat(such as two brush blending). But with time and practice you can get there =) I'm amazed at how much my painting has improved just with the first 8 models I painted.
Edit: Hopefully the formatting isn't too obnoxious, thought I did it right but doesn't have space between paragraphs
Green Stuff is your friend.
Basically you take a little green and a little blue, roll it up into a ball until it is play-doh consistency and use it as tack. It is great for attaching arms/legs/weapons to models, but also for sticking them to bases. I do not prefer going straight super glue to model as the joints will be weaker, but pinning a model with soder or a paper clip is kind of a pain the butt. Green stuff is a happy in between method. Good joint strength easy to use.
Regarding bases specifically, I always fill in the gap of the base with green stuff before proceeding. Roll out a small line, then superglue it into the gap. Smooth out the underside of the base and scrap away excess. You need to work fairly quickly as the green stuff starts to harden after about 5 to 10 minutes. You’ll have enough time, just don’t go walk away and bake cookies or something.
Next decide if you want to keep the flash on the base of the model (rectangle attaching the feet). Some models, Obulous or Brisket for example, should keep the flash because their models will be less stable as they only stand on one foot. On a normal model, standing on two feet, I prefer to cut the flash off.
If you kept the flash on, glue up the flash and just stick it right into the green stuff you used to fill in the base, then remove any excess from both the top and underside. If you removed the flash, roll up two tiny balls of green stuff, super glue them to the feet, then superglue that to the base. Its ok if it is a little sloppy or some of the excess is left over because you'll want to cover it up with a good flock.
Easy peasy!
My recommended buying list for a new painter is:
Tools
Sprays
○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
Brushes
○ Round 0
○ Round 1
○ Round 2
All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby. Nt all of this is required, but it is nice to have.
This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)
I have a few of these
https://www.amazon.com/Lifetime-4428-Adjustable-Folding-Utility/dp/B003YJPC2A/
Aldi actually had them on sale a few years ago for like 20 bucks a pop. I use them for infinity/guildball/40k, and my wife uses them when we have parties.
I found some cheap terrain on Amazon that happens to be well sized for Guild Ball and was pretty easy to paint. Take a look:
Of the ones I got, obstacles can be made with groups of the barrels and crates (a few crates, a few barrels, or a combination of both), the low walls, and the tree stumps. The high walls make nice barriers. While I didn't get them, I imagine the chests and columns could be added to either obstacles or barriers, as well.
Here's a picture of all the terrain I made after assembly and priming. Here's a picture of one of them after being painted fully.. Unfortunately, I don't have a group shot after painting.