(Part 2) Best products from r/hackintosh

Got any ideas for budget? Also, what software will you be using and what bitrate, resolution and general quality settings are you planning on encoding at? Is it also a necessity for 32GB of RAM? You would probably be able to save a good chunk of money to put towards other parts if you went with 16 or perhaps 24.

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I'm not sure on the display outputs of the GTX 480, however running 3 monitors off of that and one off your onboard graphics chip you should be good to go (aslong as the connections aren't VGA, as corpnewt mentioned; it's quite hit-and-miss). For onboard graphics I'd recommend a motherboard with a HD530 chip, they're pretty well supported and off the top of my head require 2 bootflags to get working.

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In terms of motherboards it's not particularly my forte, so I may be wrong on some of these things. I think it's generally accepted that Gigabyte motherboards are the best for hackintoshing and are all round great boards, so I'd definitely recommend one. As I said you'd probably want a board with a HD530 chip, or another chip with similar support. Assuming you want 32 gig of RAM you're gonna need support for that, and if you go for 16 for now you still might want to go for a board that supports 32 incase you decide to upgrade in the future or if 16 is not enough. I'd also recommend the 115x chipset as imo is going to give you the most choices on CPU with the best compatibility. After some talks with /u/CorpNewt he suggested this Gigabyte board. It's got enough PCI-E slots, supported onboard graphics (HD530), support for 64gb of RAM, ThunderBolt and good hackintosh support which should check all the boxes.

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CPU? 6700k; 4 cores, 8 threads, 4.0Ghz clock speed, it's overclockability gives you some headroom if you ever need a bump in performance, the most powerful CPU you can get on Skylake currently (yes the enthusiast CPU's are round the corner but they are silly money and this should be plenty of power), great longevity, and most of all have good OSX support.

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The CPU can be found here. You're gonna want a cooler such as a Hyper 212 Evo or a Corsair H55 AIO (I can vouch for this cooler, have one myself and it's great). If you plan on overclocking or want to just in case, you should probably look at something a bit beefier like a Corsair H100i AIO.

The mobo can be found here.

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Feel free to fire away with any questions you have.

Well, that's pretty crazy man. You can google x470 motherboards, those motherboards are all set for the 2000 generation. I got Gigabyte because Gigabyte is pretty much the best for hackintosh compatibility.

But take a look at Amazon,

https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-X470-AORUS-ULTRA-GAMING/dp/B07BZ239Z2

If you click used, they have warehouse deals for 90$ or so. It's pretty good.

If you can't get it for a good price, just try searching which brands are good for hackintosh,

I suggest getting a x470 board, since those are the onces which will allow the percision boost.

This is absolutely great, thank you very much LOL :)

So i'm guessing something like this could work? https://www.amazon.com/Broadcom-BCM943228HMB-BCM43228-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B00KOMZM4I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1475018841&sr=1-1&keywords=half+mini+pci-e+card+broadcom

Is it easy to change it out?

The 6670 is supported, but you can do better for that price.

First, if you can afford it, get a GTX 460

However, if you'd like to stay within your £80 price range, get either the GTS 450 or the Radeon 5750

Best of luck!

For the most part everything looks solid to me. You've made good choices on the mobo, CPU and GPU, and those are most important when it comes to hackintoshing. Just a few quite notes:

• You probably don't need a 650w PSU, you would be fine with a lower wattage one and save 10-15 bucks. The 650w will allow for better expansion in the future however.
  
  
• You're going to want a better WiFi adaptor than that. At least one that supports 802.11n, which is the next standard after 802.11g (what the one you picked supports). When you've picked a newer card, double check on TonyMac or InsanelyMac forums to see if the card is compatible. If you still want to go the cheaper route, this USB dongle is cheaper and higher performing than the 802.11g card you've got right now. And it works flawlessly in OS X and Windows.
  
  
• Replace your optical drive with this one. It's been proven 100% compatible with hackintoshing. A lot of other optical drives have issues with power management which could render your desktop unable to sleep or use Speedstep properly.

I got WiFi and Bluetooth working on my Hack (an AMD hack no less) using this adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/Sourcingbay-NGFF-Wireless-Card-Adapter/dp/B013U4401W/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=m.2+wifi+to+pcie&qid=1557423552&s=gateway&sr=8-4

And this card:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Broadcom-BCM94352Z-M-2-NGFF-802-11AC-867Mbps-BT-4-0-DW1560-f-Mac-Hackintosh/252319175707?epid=1761109656&hash=item3abf65141b:g:q2wAAOSw1DtXGd2c

​

It is definitely a bit pricey, but well worth it IMO. Bluetooth and WiFi from it. And the WiFi is SUPER fast... 200Mbps up and down easily, sometimes more.

​

These are the kexts needed:

​

AirportBrcmFixup.kext

BrcmFirmwareData.kext

BrcmPatchRAM2.kext

FakePCIID.kext

FakePCIID_Broadcom_WiFi.kext

It's not unreasonable... although I would first try and see if you can get your current setup working with the new video card... it should be pretty straight forward and if your current build can work with the new hardware it'll make switching back and forth much easier... even if your new vanilla install goes perfectly right away, a clean install can take awhile to get everything back up and running the way you like.

Another suggestion (if you have 5.25" drive bay) is to get a drive switcher this will allow you to physically disconnect power to all your drives... so you just shutdown, turn off the ones on your current system, turn on the new one to tinker, and then boot up again. Your known working system is safe. (I also use it for OS upgrades or if I wanted to boot Windows)

I have a similar board. I would first remove the wifi adapter you have on there now to avoid any incompatibilities.

If you are not under a tight budget, I would get the following:

1. An original BCM94360CD card from Ebay. This is an original Apple part with Bluetooth 4.0 and 802.11ac wifi. Just search for it and you should find one. Should be about $30. If you want the latest and greatest with slightly better bluetooth, this BCM943602CDP card will also work though I can't guarantee it'll fit in the adapter below -- it should though. I have this card.
   
2. I haven't tried this adapter, but it looks pretty good: https://www.amazon.com/Shaluoman-BCM94360CD-BCM94331CD-PCI-Adapter/dp/B0762N2R2R/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1550134749&sr=1-10&keywords=bcm94360cd
   
   A lot of folks recommend a Fenvi T919 which is basically a BCM94360cd in a similar adapter to the above. I don't recommend it though -- I had some trouble with their adapter and sleep that got resolved when I switched to something similar to the one above. If you want to give it a shot regardless they are sold on Newegg.

Hey there, a couple answers:

I've been using Photoshop and Illustrator CC without any hitches for a few weeks now on my new Hackintosh. Didn't have to do anything special to get them to run at all, just logged into my CC account once the Hack was up and running and downloaded everything that was needed.

I have a GTX 950 and a U3415 (https://www.amazon.com/Dell-UltraSharp-34-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00PXYRMPE) that work perfectly in my setup. I have the latest Nvidia drivers for it but that's a given, you're going to have to do that for your GPU no matter what monitor you select. I have it connected over a full-size DisplayLink cable and it pushes it at 60hz which is perfect and what I wanted. Your card is beefier than mine so I can't imagine any issues as long as you get the right drivers for it. BTW if you drive the monitor over HDMI it won't go faster than 30hz which is pretty annoying, you gotta get the DisplayLink cable for maximum throughput and refresh rate.

Obviously you chose to have some spinning hard drives for a reason, so take this advice with a grain of salt, but you could obviously save some money by ditching them and perhaps going with a larger SSD.

I recently wrote about my build here... doesn't get into the technical details much, but let me know if I can answer any more questions about it. I'm using it for iOS design & development so we probably have similar needs.

PC Setup (Generated from my old spreadsheet)

• XFX Radeon RX 580 GTS Black Edition 1425MHz OC+, 8GB GDDR5 ($219) https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1425MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DBD6/dp/B071CD6K6Z
  
• ASUS ROG Maximus X Hero (Wi-Fi AC) LGA1151 DDR4 DP HDMI M.2 Z370 ($259) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJ944T/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Samsung 970 EVO 1TB - NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 SSD ($169) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Samsung 970 EVO 1TB - NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 SSD ($169) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• CORSAIR Hydro Series H110i AIO Liquid CPU Cooler ($115) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019955W7C/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Intel Core i7-8086K Desktop Processor 6 Cores up to 5.0 GHz unlocked LGA 1151 300 Series 95W ($379.99) https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8086K-Desktop-Processor-unlocked/dp/B07DGDWJ3P/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Intel%2BCore%2Bi7-8086K&qid=1553548453&s=electronics&sr=1-3-catcorr&th=1
  
• G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) ($344) https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232560&Description=F4-3200C14D-32GTZ&cm_re=F4-3200C14D-32GTZ--20-232-560--Product
  
• Phanteks Evolv X PH-ES518XTG_DAG01 Anthracite Gray Aluminum ATX Mid Tower Computer Case ($199) https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854077
  
• EVGA Supernova 750 G3, 80 Plus Gold 750W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with New HDB Fan ($109) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BE058W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Comes to roughly $1,963 for the tower itself which is pretty cheap all things considering
  
  ​
  
  If you are interested in my monitors at all, I'm using the following
  
  
• [Main Monitor] Alienware 1900R 34.1", Curved Gaming Monitor LED-Lit, WQHD 3440 x 1440p Resolution, 4ms 120Hz Overclocked Refresh Rate, NVIDIA G-Sync, 21:9 Aspect Ratio, HDMI, Display Port, 4x USB 3.0, AW3418DW ($799 on sale BF) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777RY75V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Other 2 are LG's I've purchased a year apart several years ago (3-5), I can't even find the links to them anymore. Got them both when WQHD just started becoming a thing
  
• LG Electronics UM95 34UM95-P 34-Inch Screen LED-Lit Monitor ($599)
  
  ​
  
  Other
  
  
• Jarvis Desk Base ($450) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N023V8B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Blue Yeti Microphone ($115) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1YPXW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• InnoGear Microphone Suspension Mic Clip ($13) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L3LL95O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Dragonpad Pop Filter ($13) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008AOH1O6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  This would have been a perfect opportunity to generate affiliate links, but I don't care. Hopefully that helps!

If you go with the Samsung NVMe SSD you'll need to hack support into one of the system's built-in kexts which is a recipe for headaches. Better off going with something like https://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-OCZ-RD400-Solid-RVD400-M22280-512G/dp/B01G3HLOYY/ which (from what I understand) can be formatted to work with the native macOS NVMe driver.

Looks good otherwise!

> https://www.amazon.com/Broadcom-BCM943228HMB-BCM43228-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B00KOMZM4I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1475018841&sr=1-1&keywords=half+mini+pci-e+card+broadcom

If you can find confirmation of that particular Broadcom working in El Cap/Sierra, then that's what you want. Look carefully and you'll see the two screw holes that secure the adapter to the motherboard (the adapter usually sits vertical to the motherboard). It will be easy to see the OEM adapter on the motherboard--just carefully remove the two screws, lift out the adapter, and plug the new one in. Replace the screws and you're ready to go.

One thing to keep in mind is that some motherboards with integrated wifi/bluetooth use a different sort of module that is not (easily) removable. It might be enclosed in a little metal box-like enclosure. I think ASUS has used on-board adapters like that. Gigabyte has used the type of adapter shown in the amazon link, so that's why I suggested you look at their mini-ITX boards first. If you are considering other brands, be sure to look closely at photos of the board to verify the type of adapter included so you'll know whether or not you can swap it.

Some mother boards, like my Gigabyte GA-Z170-Ultra Gaming supports an addon card like https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0722SV69N/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1 which is an Alpine Ridge TB3 chipset which is what Apple uses. Asus also has an Alpine Ridge addon card. This was the easiest way for me to get TB3 into my hack.

Ok, yeah I had heard of just some other minor problems even with the clover patches so would feel better without.

so this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G3HLOYY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

and this

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Desktop-Processor-i7-7700K-BX80677I77700K/dp/B01MXSI216/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501442015&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+7700k

would be better?

FL1100 has great support in Sierra and El Capitan.

I'm using an Inateck KT4006 and works OOB on my hack.

Here's the one I'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1498570527&sr=8-15&keywords=inateck+usb+3.0

Thanks for posting these, they're really interesting!

Regarding the Aorus z270 guide, I've been wanting to build an ITX Hackintosh (I want a small computer) but I'm not sure about WiFi. I'm a little confused, but it seems like a lot of people use a PCI-e card that supports both WiFi and Bluetooth, like this one. But that motherboard has only one PCI-e slot, which I want to put a GPU in, so would I be stuck on Ethernet? Is there any other way to get WiFi and Bluetooth working (don't care about handoff)?

IOGEAR Bluetooth 4.0 USB Micro Adapter (GBU521) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GFX0PY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Se7Fub1FM2CXN


This is the one I got.... Like I said, my kernal panic started right after I installed my cooler, that may just be a coincidence..... But removing it fixed it..... Personally I love the keyboard with the numpad so no big deal for me..... Also I turned bluetooth off in preferences. The weird thing is it worked perfectly out of the box for a week or two.

You can always get a USB adapter for <$10. I have this one and it works perfectly.

To downgrade you have to wipe your drive and have a USB installer drive ready with the old version.

I have dual 28" Samsung U28E590 4K monitors, and they work great. I'm not familiar with FreeSync so I can't address that. However the guide that I followed was made by a guy using the AMD RX580 card, so that's definitely good to go. His settings and kexts worked on my Sapphire card with zero changes.

My wife has a 27UD58 and we both agree the Samsungs look slightly better, though her monitor is slimmer and lighter.

I am not a gamer, so I can't address the video/monitor as far as gaming use. I could have spent less on a card with less memory, or a lesser card, but I was trying to go with a known compatible card. Also the wifi/BT on the motherboard doesn't work, so you can buy another version of the board without it. And if you do that, the guide's USB port kexts will be exactly the same (mine are slightly different).

https://smile.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-Z390-AORUS-PRO-Motherboard/dp/B07HRZRBRJ?sa-no-redirect=1

Intel Core i7-6700k 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Corsair H100i v2 Liquid CPU Cooler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EXSSBG/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014SL2XKQ/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4-3200 Memory
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0143UM4TC/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

eVGA Nvidia 980 TI SC+ ACX 2.0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YDAYLTY/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD (OS X)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LMXBOP4/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

FenviUS 802.11AC Desktop WiFi Bluetooth Card FV-T919A (works native out of the box no drivers)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLG51U/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Samsung 850 Evo 500GB SSD (Files, Games, etc)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OBRE5UE/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

EVGA G2 Gold 850W Power Supply Fully-Modular ATX
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOC/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case, White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LA6Y5XQ/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

LG - 27" IPS LED 4K UHD FreeSync Monitor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C3BZIIC/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Logitech MX Master Mouse, Wireless
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TZR3WRM/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Logitech K750 Black Mac Wireless Solar Powered Keyboard
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005L38VRU/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Blue Yeti USB Microphone
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VA464S/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

GLTECK XXL Large Mouse Pad
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FTQUC3Y/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

DualShock PS4 Controller White Bluetooth Game Pad :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVP76G0/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Mackie CR3 - 3" Creative Reference Multimedia Monitors (Pair)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4E/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Audio Technica M50X Professional Studio Monitor Headphones
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVLUR86/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

I greatly appreciate your time. I ended up ordering a Fenvi PCI card from Amazon. It worked straight out of the box and was $18 shipped to Colorado,USA.

https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Desktop-Wireless-Hackintosh-Supporting/dp/B01IVIHPBY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506794477&sr=1-2&keywords=hackintosh

Inateck KT4006 2-Port PCI-E USB 3.0 Express Card

This is working perfectly OOB in macOS Sierra 10.12.6

Judging by the dimensions of the photo, looks like a high-end ultrawide. This one from Amazon has the same resolution, but LG and a few others also make similar monitors. They aren't cheap, but they look stunning.

Nice. $200 for a M/B is pretty steep tho!

$200 for a 256GB SATA SSD isn't a deal when you can get a 512GB RD400 M.2 SSD from amazon for $240

(RD400 can be configured to be OOB-compatible with MacOS, it just needs to be in 4k LBA sector format with OCZ's SSD Utility)

I've got a similar Kaby Lake setup in my newegg cart for when Vega OEM cards are available, to go into this case:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811108530

Not terribly happy with not being able to install the 10.13 betas due to no GTX drivers so am looking forward to going back to the Radeon.

But if Vega availability is delayed due to the "miners" I might go with the 300-series motherboards with a Coffee Lake CPU instead.

These add another 2 cores at the same pricepoints apparently. Not sure how quick Hacks will support this weirdness, but it shouldn't take too long.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Boxed-I7-6700K-Processor-BX80662I76700K/dp/B012M8LXQW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1472704963&sr=1-1&keywords=i7

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Arsenal-Gaming-Motherboard-Z170M/dp/B015ZKJR9Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472704976&sr=8-3&keywords=micro%2Batx%2Bwifi

https://www.amazon.com/Cryorig-CR-C7A-Flow-Heatsink-47mm/dp/B0177GTV9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472704897&sr=8-1&keywords=c7+cooler

https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Sport-8GBx2-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B01AG9EZ3M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1472704805&sr=8-5&keywords=ballistix%2Bsport

https://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-OCZ-Trion-Internal-TRN150-25SAT3-240G/dp/B01B4NUKDS/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1472705047&sr=1-8&keywords=ssd

https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Micro-ATX-Mini-DTX-Compatible-SG11B/dp/B00U8IS830/ref=sr_1_17?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1472705171&sr=1-17&keywords=micro+atx+case


This is the perfect build $900, but will beat almost all macs (If you added an RX 460 it would beat all except maybe the Mac Pro)

> Fenvi FV T919

Which one did you purchase? I am looking on Amazon, and see multiple types under the same link. FYI, I am looking here:

https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Desktop-Wireless-Hackintosh-Supporting/dp/B01IVIHPBY

It looks like the GIGABYTE Z390 AORUS PRO is cheaper than the GIGABYTE Z390 AORUS Master. Is it necessary that I use a master to follow your guide and use an i9?

Fenvi Desktop Wireless Card 2.4/5GHz draft 802.11n 300Mbps Desktop WLAN PCI-E Card Windows Mac OS X Hackintosh System Also Supporting Windows 7 Window https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVIHPBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ICGI9R2jRy2mj

Dell UltraSharp U3415W 34-Inch Curved LED-Lit Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PXYRMPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uAIzCbY5692PB This looks like it

You could grab this one, and a mac card for 100% compatibility :-)

https://www.amazon.com/Shaluoman-BCM94360CD-BCM94331CD-PCI-Adapter/dp/B0762N2R2R/ref=pd_sbs_147_43?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0762N2R2R&pd_rd_r=9559b65a-caeb-11e8-8c12-5507783b5d52&pd_rd_w=cC5hl&pd_rd_wg=71yBT&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=7d5d9c3c-5e01-44ac-97fd-261afd40b865&pf_rd_r=HWFAWD0278YS263N2MHR&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=HWFAWD0278YS263N2MHR

You can grab a regular motherboard as I’m not sure if many have thunderbolt 3 ports. You can always grab something like this for tb3 access if you have an available slot on the motherboard.
https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-Alpine-Thunderbolt-Components-GC-Alpine/dp/B0722SV69N

I use this one it just plugs in via USB and macOS recognizes that it has bluetooth and it has worked flawlessly for me so far. I use it to connect to apple wireless keyboard and Magic Trackpad.

I ordered this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GFX0PY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 seems to work just fine in Yosemite. Does not seem to work at all in the bios. So there's that.

I used the Iomega BT dongle. It worked fine in my Sierra install on a different Hackintosh.
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Bluetooth-Micro-Adapter-GBU521/dp/B007GFX0PY

Yes. I couldn't get the bluetooth working on the BCM943602CS card I have installed in one of my M.2 slots, so I just bought this USB adapter. I probably could have figured it out, but I just didn't want to deal with it.

397885 IOGEAR BT-4.0 USB MICRO ADAPTER 1 14.99 14.99
S/N:OU42USC2T04858

I bought mine from Micro Center.

Edit: Could buy from Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Bluetooth-Micro-Adapter-GBU521/dp/B007GFX0PY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407533745&sr=8-1&keywords=iogear+bluetooth

You could use something like this to switch power on and off for the drives. Also why can't you just use the clover bootloader to choose which OS to boot into at startup? The software bootloader is completely different from the one you used in the past (made specifically for hackintoshes) so boot files aren't tampered with. I've been using it on my laptop for over 2 years with no issues.

This card with this PCI adapter worked out of the box for me, for both bluetooth and wifi, with no configuring. Would recommend. It's a little more expensive but you won't spend a week trying to figure out how to get your cheaper card/dongle to work.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PBSFEHA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0762N2R2R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB adaptors made by IOGEAR and GMYLE work OOB as far as you are using ordinary Bluetooth connection ( e.g. keyboard, mouse, trackpad and audio.) Unlike ones from osxwifi.com, additional work is required when you want to use Continuity functions with iOS.

• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GFX0PY/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MKMJGO/

Looks like they are EOL now.


Amazon UK sell them via the US store which will come in a week and you pay income charges upfront.

Same here... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GFX0PY/

What dongle is that? This one?

It even says in the description "not for Hackintosh System"

Edit: Found it

I'm using an Inateck KT4006 (Fresco Logic FL1100) and it was plug-and-play on Sierra and High Sierra, I didn't have to change anything to have it work. I'm not even using USBInjectAll.kext.

if you can't research something like this yourself, then making it work is definitely beyond your scope. No offense, but just pony up a few dollars and get a known working adapter -- https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Bluetooth-Micro-Adapter-GBU521/dp/B007GFX0PY/