(Part 2) Best products from r/handtools

Used this list for a couple posts, its about $200ish in all to get you started. This list uses chisels in lieu of say a router plane for dados and doesn't have an option for grooves but that's later down the road. I've got a big enthusiast list as well if you'd be interested.


> Crosscut/Ripsaw: Irwin Double Sided Pullsaw https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Double-Edge-9-5-Inch-213103/dp/B0001GLEZ8
> Joinery Saw - I think this is the one Japanese saw I own? works okay https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=pd_sbs_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001DSY7G6&pd_rd_r=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH&pd_rd_w=16INj&pd_rd_wg=gFI50&psc=1&refRID=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH
> Chisels https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302108&sr=1-1&keywords=narex+chisels
> Marking Gauge https://www.amazon.com/Crown-135-Marking-Gauge-Beech/dp/B00EC9AOZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZBYMV8TF850C6M5JDGDG
> Bevel Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC2NYKS?psc=1
> Mallet - I'd personally make one or buy a used one (of heavier wood, good grain and quality construction.) Amazon has some though. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-gram-Beech-Carving-Mallet/dp/B00L7BQL54/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302341&sr=1-11&keywords=mallet
> Combination square -does the work of several sizes of squares for the price of one - https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302407&sr=1-2&keywords=square
> A No 4 or 5 sized plane - I buy old Stanley's/Bailey's because they're great, and usually cheap for bench planes - Flea Market/Antique stores/ebay -$20 ish --- Amazon also sells new (I give no guarantee on quality however) - https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-404-Adjustable-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B000FK3WI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302507&sr=1-1&keywords=stanley+plane
> "Workbench" - temporary thing to hold pieces while you make dovetails - https://www.amazon.com/WM125-Workmate-350-Pound-Capacity-Portable/dp/B000077CQ0/ref=pd_cart_vw_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CA9X21QD5D7QAXKMGE6S
> Woodscrew clamp, used to clamp peice to workbench while chiseling waste - https://www.amazon.com/ATE-Pro-USA-30143-Handscrew/dp/B0006A4A5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499303583&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+screw+clamp
>
> Other than clamps, glue, mortice gauge, etc, this is good enough to get you started making carcass (dovetailed) pieces of furniture, like a shoe cubby or bookshelf. (Currently making a chimney bookshelf for myself)
>
> Thats around $200 for getting you started. Add a mortise chisel and mortise gauge and you can start mortise and tenon work. Invest in pipe clamps when you reach a glue up point.

There are definitely some workbenches that are easier to build than others.

With that in mind, Paul Sellers workbench is popular because it’s free on YouTube but it is one of the harder ones to build. I would not start with this bench.

The Naked Woodworker is a solid bench that is much easier.

Chris Schwarz’s workbench book (the blue one is a must read too.

If you decide to do a roubo bench, the top is the hardest part since most of us don’t have access to lumber that big and wide and most laminate lumber together. Instead, look into starting with a glulam beam (not LVL) found in a lumberyard. You can glue 2 @ 2x12 laminated beams to make a 24” wide top. It’ll save some effort for a little more cost.

A saw recommendation depends a lot upon what you intend to use it for. I wouldn't recommend spending a lot of money on a saw until you understand that and have some experience using hand saws for those cuts.

I own many saws, but I bought a cheap Pony saw for utility use and it works pretty well on cross-cuts and passably well on rip cuts. It has induction-hardened teeth so you cannot sharpen it, but it will last quite a while and is a reasonable starter saw for general rough cuts.

Japanese hand saws are also very reasonably priced, and will cut dovetails and joints as well as a very expensive Western saw. To my mind, it's certainly worth buying a standard double-sided Japanese saw and trying it out to see if it satisfies your needs.

This helps immensely! Is this spray - http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1635-Ceramic-Semi-Gloss-Engine/dp/B000GKEXVQ

Can I ask what you typically do with the handles? I'll be able to use the originals on most of them (one tote was cracked and repaired, so I've bought a replacement). The issue with this is the replacement is still the original dark, and doesn't quite match the others. I'm sure they are all rosewood, just differing states of wear. Do you sand back and stain when you restore? If so, some advice for an original look would be great!

Thanks again for the reply.

I got this set (though, I got mine from Lowes - most hardware stores should have them. Heck, even Walmart probably has 'em). They're not great, but they're really impressive for the price. If you use them a lot, you'll probably want better chisels (i.e. the Narex ones everybody has mentioned. Those have been on my shopping list for a while now).

Also make sure you get something to sharpen them with. Chromium oxide paste/bar and a strop is also really helpful for quick touchups (My strop is a scrap of denim glued to a scrap of wood - doesn't have to be fancy). This isn't necessary to start, but it's inexpensive and something to keep in mind.

I have this one (7” size) from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Yost-Rapid-Acting-Wood-Working/dp/B00SIQ1DLS?th=1&psc=1

It’s $70, under mount, with a quick release lever. It’s excellent and hasn’t let me down. It does everything I need and an excellent value. The quick release lever is a must and makes things much easier. Sure I’d love those awesome wooden vises that are the whole leg of the bench, or have the big wheels, but I also don’t want to spend hundreds.

I think I had to buy my own mounting bolts. I used about 9-10” pieces of oak to make wooden jaws (3/4” piece on the inside, 2 glued up 3/4” pieces on the outside - it’s just what some bench plan told me to do because you can then drill bench dog holes in the outside part but I haven’t done that yet) and just countersunk screws through the wood pieces into the metal jaws. Then I planed the top of the wood jaws flush with the bench top.

Idk, I wouldn't say that. I still think you can get a good deal, if you look around.

The chisels I bought off of Harbor Freight actually seem pretty good after I spent an entire afternoon tuning and sharpening them. They were complete shit out of the box though. Forget a flat back, the edge wasn't even square.

These vintage planes were relatively cheap too.

I am also considering buying this saw, as I heard it was quite good after you tune it up.

Also, I sent that piece of junk gauge back, so I didn't really lose anything.


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I was looking at the crowns on amazon.

What do you think about this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Silverline-868503-Mortice-Gauge-230mm/dp/B000LFTQ72/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1485138295&sr=8-9&keywords=Marking+gauge

EDIT : Nvm, according to UK reviews, it's crap. Ohh wow, the UK has way better choices than we do in the states...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-868503-Mortice-Gauge-230/dp/B000LFTQ72/ref=sr_1_4?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1485139275&sr=1-4&keywords=Mortice+gauge

I won't be able to tell you for sure for about 2 months. But if you store your tools in a tool box. And then put a dehumidifier in the box and as other people say put some oil/wax on the tool it should stay rust free.

There are reusable dehumidifies that you reset by baking them in an oven. As seen here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025OO8DO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qzEhzbX8Q0SP8


I use jojoba oil, which is really a liquid wax. But 3in1 machine oil is a tried and true rust prevention.

This guy tests and documents in a fairly rigorous way the "best" rust prevention.

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

Best of luck.

Not really, but if you have a beater handsaw, you can make one out of saw plate, they work well. Otherwise, Lee Valley sells them, steel is a bit better. Wait for a free shipping deal... Kunz sells one that works fine: https://www.amazon.com/Kunz-Cabinet-Scraper-Replacement-Blade/dp/B006L7DX8C

Lee valley: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,310&p=69374

Depending on your budget, a Tormek is arguably the best and most efficient system out there.

I can’t afford a Tormek but my friend has one and swears by it. I got the Grizzly knockoff and they really are worth the money.


https://www.amazon.com/Tormek-Cooled-Precision-Sharpening-System/dp/B01FHLUMSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Tormek&qid=1574913956&sr=8-3

That's a pretty blurry photo, but it looks like it calls for a security hex bit, size unknown. Something like this would include what you'd need.

These are solid: https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-KR3-550-50-Inch-Parallel-2-Pack/dp/B001HSO6TU/ref=sr_1_50?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519866448&sr=1-50&keywords=bar+clamps

You've probably heard the first law of clamps is that you can never have too many clamps.

The corollary to that is you can never have too many bar clamps of exactly the same model and dimensions because it is a massive pain to try to get panels aligned for glue-up when you you have two or more different sizes of clamps sitting at different heights from the workbench.

For light duty, I love these: https://www.amazon.com/IRWINQUICK-GRIPOne-Handed-Mini-Clamp-Pack-1964745/dp/B001NP9S7M/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519866799&sr=1-4&keywords=irwin+quick+grip. Super fast and easy to apply even one-handed.

I made the mistake of buying a lot of this style clamp when I was starting out: https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-GSCC2-524-2-5-Inch-24-Inch-Economy/dp/B000FA0BMC/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519866845&sr=1-4&keywords=bar+clamp

When you use them to span more than a couple of feet, they bow and that throws the jaws out of square with the work-piece. I eventually just threw them away.

Oh - I have never used these, but I've fiddled with them at the store and they seem solid and a bit better than pipe clamps: http://www.rockler.com/surefoot-aluminum-bar-clamps

On a side note, if you ever have a tool that lives in an rust-prone environment try using a rust converter. It's basically an acid that will change stop oxidation (rust) and turn it black, but allow you to paint without rust bubbling up. I know that's not useful information for a saw but it's something I wish I'd known about earlier so I'm bringing it up.

Also I saw your comment below, it's really tough to polish by hand, but if you have a drill you can get an attachment.

Rather than trying to find one to restore, I took my chances with an off-the-shelf cheap-o plane from Amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YUKBS). I just got tired of visiting Craigslist every day and fretting over which vintage plane would be better to restore on eBay. There's dozens that seem in pretty good shape and in need of a little TLC, but too many for a novice to choose from. After a couple of weeks of indecision, I just went with the one from Amazon. I flattened the sole and sharpened the blade, and it produces shavings! Since I have no idea what I'm doing (and haven't built my shop yet), it's good enough for me. I just chock up some scrap wood in a small vice and keep taking shavings off every night or two.

Also, hello from E. Brainerd!