This looks great. One thing I'd recommend from a code perspective is to remove all the functions and store the mapping in a dictionary since your modifier is always the same. It should make it a bit more readable and maintainable if you ever want to move stuff around. I haven't done Python in a while so I'm guessing this won't work quite right, but something like:

Before installing ensure you have python and pip loaded

# Install evdev with 'sudo pip install evdev'<br />
# Install pyautogui with 'sudo pip install pyautogui'<br />
# Based on the concept at https://www.instructables.com/id/Wireless-UGS-Pendant/<br />
# and https://www.reddit.com/r/linux/comments/8geyru/diy_linux_macro_board/<br />
<br />
# Keypad used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TX57HR4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1<br />
<br />
import os<br />
from evdev import InputDevice, categorize, ecodes<br />
import pyautogui <br />
<br />
# Event 5 is associated with the 10-key<br />
# Find this with 'cat /proc/bus/input/devices'<br />
dev = InputDevice('/dev/input/event5')<br />
# Grab the 10-key so it's input is only read by this program<br />
dev.grab()<br />
<br />
# Define actions<br />
# These keyboard shortcuts need to be enteres into your favorite<br />
# GCODE sender.  I use Universal GCODE Sender on my RPi<br />
# You can change these shortcuts to any other combination you like,<br />
# I found that the SHIFT-CTRL-ALT series was mostly unused<br />
mapping = {<br />
    # State<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP0&quot;: &quot;l&quot;, # unlock<br />
    &quot;KEY_ESC&quot;: &quot;i&quot;, # cancel       <br />
    &quot;KEY_TAB&quot;: &quot;o&quot;, # pause<br />
    &quot;KEY_EQUAL&quot;: &quot;p&quot;, # send program<br />
    &quot;KEY_DELETE&quot;: &quot;M&quot;, # connect<br />
<br />
    # XYZ<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP1&quot;: &quot;n&quot;, # home<br />
<br />
    # XY<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP2&quot;: &quot;h&quot;, # xy zero<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP9&quot;: &quot;1&quot;, # xymult10<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP7&quot;: &quot;2&quot;, # xydiv10<br />
<br />
    # X<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPSLASH&quot;: &quot;x&quot;, # reset x<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP4&quot;: &quot;a&quot;, # xjogneg<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP6&quot;: &quot;d&quot;, # xjogpos<br />
<br />
    # Y<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPASTERISK&quot;: &quot;c&quot;, # reset y<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP5&quot;: &quot;s&quot;, # yjogneg<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP8&quot;: &quot;w&quot;, # yjogpos<br />
    <br />
    # Z<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP3&quot;: &quot;z&quot;, # reset z<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPMINUS&quot;: &quot;r&quot;, # z jogneg<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPPLUS&quot;: &quot;f&quot;, # z jogpos<br />
    &quot;KEY_BACKSPACE&quot;: &quot;3&quot;, # z inc<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPENTER&quot;: &quot;4&quot;, # z dec<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPDOT&quot;: &quot;v&quot;, # probe z<br />
<br />
    # Feed<br />
    &quot;KEY_LEFT&quot;: &quot;6&quot;, # dec jog rate<br />
    &quot;KEY_RIGHT&quot;: &quot;5&quot;, # inc jog rate<br />
    &quot;KEY_DOWN&quot;: &quot;y&quot;, # feed reset<br />
    &quot;KEY_END&quot;: &quot;t&quot;, # feed dec<br />
    &quot;KEY_PAGEDOWN&quot;: &quot;u&quot;, # feed inc<br />
<br />
    # Unused<br />
    &quot;KEY_HOME&quot;: &quot;&quot;, # none<br />
    &quot;KEY_UP&quot;: &quot;&quot;, # none<br />
    &quot;KEY_PAGEUP&quot;: &quot;&quot;, # none<br />
    &quot;KEY_INSERT&quot;: &quot;&quot; # none<br />
}<br />
<br />
def send(key):<br />
    pyautogui.hotkey('ctrl', 'alt', 'shift', key)<br />
<br />
# Start reading input from the keyboard<br />
for event in dev.read_loop():<br />
    if event.type == ecodes.EV_KEY:<br />
    key = categorize(event)<br />
    # For troubleshooting, feel free to remove<br />
    print(key.keycode)<br />
    # If a key is pressed<br />
    if key.keystate == key.key_down:<br />
        # Set keyname to the keycode<br />
        # Could have used the numerical key nodes and a switch statement<br />
        # But this is more readable<br />
        keyname = key.keycode<br />
        character = mapping[keyname]<br />
        if character:<br />
            send(character)<br />
        else:<br />
            print(&quot;unknown command: &quot;, keyname)

I have printed a new spindle holder that will fit a 52mm 500W spindle but have yet to actually buy the spindle. It's been pretty handy with the laser so far.

I could never get PCB's to engrave well and I'm hoping the 500W motor will remedy that. I've heard it helps tremendously. The default spindle is weaksauce, for sure.

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

• https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  

• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470
  

  
  

  And here's the part list!
  

  
  

  QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
  

  ---------:|----------|----------
  1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
  1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
  1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
  1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
  3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
  1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
  4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
  1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
  25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
  1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
  3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
  16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
  1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
  2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
  1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
  ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
  1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
  7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
  2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
  
  Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!

Another point of reference -- I'm assuming you're using the standard 1.5kw/2.2kw spindle. I've been doing 0.9mm DOC, 1000mm/min at 12000rpm using single-flute 12mm CEL cutters in 6061. The shorter flute length is key -- I went through a pack of 17mm CEL cutters on one part, but then cut almost 10 pieces with slightly more aggressive settings using the shorter tools.

Another very important thing is to evacuate the chips in deep slots. I was mostly doing 1/4" aluminum, and I ended up using an air compressor pointed at the cut to blow out the chips reliably at the bottom. I had to use a ton of WD40 to flush out the chips, which is not economical. Standard isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) actually worked just as well, if not better since the evaporation carries away more heat.

Another thing I've been meaning to try is trochoidal milling for cutting out aluminum plates like that. Should save a lot on tool life.

One last hint I forgot -- you need a VERY STIFF machine to go this aggressively! On my little X-carve clone, the best settings I got was 0.25mm DOC, 800mm/min, 20krpm. The "chips" were basically just aluminum dust. The new machine I'm using is an old retrofitted CNC router with linear rails and servos, and actually cuts nice solid chips at these settings.

Found it:

Freud D1080N Diablo 10-Inch 80 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ38/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Z0pFxbGAPHV0Y

(I think someone else linked it below too)

Works great though. It gives a very smooth and clean finish without any fuss. In fact, I just used it last weekend on some C-Beam from Open builds.

Don't forget to always clamp your work for best results and to account for the blade curf in your measurements

Looks great!

I've found that these bristle brushes are good at cleaning out the fuzzies that get left behind -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0787ZPHKN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

They're cheaper on ebay/alibab/etc though.

If you want quiet, give this one a try. If the size isn't big enough, they have larger sizes as well but their sound levels are great.

https://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-CAT-1P1060S-Compressor/dp/B01LYHYHEA

In case anyone has this same problem, this opto-isolator board seems to have fixed the issue.

I was having issues with the limit switches triggering prematurely also, so I installed four of these boards (one per limit switch and one for the probe circuit) and installed an add-on board using this circuit and the probe and limit switches are now working perfectly. :)

I make signs (including nameplates), and stuff for a small etsy shop I have on the side. I've found that typically, harder woods machine better. I make nameplates for people out of Walnut or Maple usually. Also, I find that using a 60 degree bit for smaller lettering looks really nice.

The nameplates I make are 9in x 3in, and 3/8in thick. I also make a stand for them out of a contrasting wood (if I use maple for the nameplate, I make the stand out of walnut). The stand allows me to set the nameplate at an angle if it will be displayed on a desk.

Here's the bit I use: Amazon Link

Let me know if you have any questions!

I've got three of the Seville classics "UltraHD" benches/work tables:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VY6BPGN/

They make pretty solid work surfaces. There's an adjustable-height version too.

https://www.amazon.com/UltraHD-Adjustable-Height-Heavy-Duty-Workbench/dp/B071VFXPFB/

Add some threaded inserts:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGR7Q60/

and you could bolt the machine down to the top.

Alternatively, you could get one of the Rockler shop stand kits and some plywood:

https://www.rockler.com/rockler-24-x-36-shop-stand

I suggest these instead. Winston Moy makes some good points about using these in the added video.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KT43MU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcdAnUnX59s

I think I've seen the kinds of blades you are talking about - they look like they are coated with extremely course industrial grit. That is not what icancwhatusay is talking about with an 80 tooth blade. See:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a "standard" 80-tooth blade with normal (carbide?) teeth as you would expect on a saw blade.

I use a Freud non-ferrous blade and it cuts through aluminum extrusion with ease and leaves a very nice finish on the cut.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are also cheaper brands that probably cut almost as well.

Cuttable area
Btw I am using the dual endstops I think that is critical for what I am doing
It makes it much easier to split up jobs or change a bit etc
HQMaster CNC Router Bits, 10 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F35WQYG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are the bits I used so far
They measure 3mm with my calipers