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>What do I need in a computer/hardware to run this game optimally

Broadly speaking- A 4th Gen Intel i5 or better for the CPU. GTX 1060 or better for your Graphics. 16GB of RAM, and a Solid State Drive for storing the game on. DCS has some long loading times, and the SSD will cut them down as much as possible. For VR, the Graphics Card will manage but I recommend a GTX 1070 or above.

One problem you'll have getting a gaming PC right now is that RAM and Graphics Cards are both in short supply and supply. As such their prices have gone up quite a bit. Graphics cards doubling in price in some cases. While I would typically recommend building your own PC due to price and quality reasons, a prebuilt PC may actually be cheaper now. Make sure you ask around, both with your friend and on here before you buy one. We'll set you straight.


> I also am considering going VR with Rift for full immersion, would that require addition components and is it worth it?

Personally I think VR is absolutely worth it. I've had my Oculus Rift for nearly a year now and have put a few hundred hours into DCS with it. You can usually demo VR units in places like Fry's Electronics or other such shops. Sometimes even Best Buy. Give it a try some time. VR will come with everything you need out of the box. Except the Computer, of course.

>Any helpful input is much appreciated.

As far as other stuff, you'll need a Flight Stick and Throttle (HOTAS). I typically recommend the Thrustmaster T.16000M as a starter all-round HOTAS. It's built well, has a lot of buttons, and is precise. You could get something lower-end, but I wouldn't recommend it. If you have something particular you want to fly, other HOTAS sets might be better suited, but the T.16000M will do anything well.

Pedals are helpful but not really something I would urge you get unless you're planning on flying Helicopters. Especially the Huey. You need a good Rudder input to tame it. If I had to recommend a set for the average user it'd probably be the CH Pro Pedals Get them used though. Trust me when I say this- CH kit are built like tanks. Get them second hand from a good Ebay seller and pocket the extra cash.

If you end up deciding to go without VR, then you will need a headtracker of some sort. They work by using a camera and some software to track the position of some Infrared LEDs attached to a hat or headset, then translate that into an input in game. This lets you look around your cockpit. That may not sound like much but it's a game changer. The official product is called TrackIR5. I don't recommend you get this. While it is the easiest to set up and is perfectly good quality, it is vastly overpriced. Trackhat or Delanclip make good products. Pair that with this camera and you're good to go.

I know that's a lot of info but DCS can be a little daunting to get into, especially if you're not already versed in PC gaming. Hopefully this helped and if you have any questions feel free to PM me :)

I'm assuming you have a T.Flight HOTAS X, which is what I used to use. It's a good HOTAS for the simpler planes like the SU-25T, but you're going to have to get good at using modifiers, or make some concessions.

I'd highly recommend rebinding the slew controls for the TV to the 8 way you're using for trim, or create a modifier for it. DCS was not designed for large amounts of keyboard use, using the keyboard to move all your sensors is not advised.

"I feel like controls could be a bit simpler"

The SU-25 is really as simple as it gets, the aircraft is not fully modelled. The full fidelity modules have the whole cockpit modelled, so all the switches and stuff actually work. I don't want to sound like a "gate keeper", more people getting into DCS is always a good thing, but DCS isn't easy, you need to know what you're in for. It's going to take a lot of time, you're not going to be good in a week, or even a month. Practise practise practise.

You don't specifically need a really good HOTAS for DCS, but it really helps. As waffle also said, don't put your keyboard behind your screen if you need to use it. If you want a good HOTAS recommendation the T.16000M is very good, I own pretty much all the modules, and it's been perfect for all of them.

https://www.amazon.com.au/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA

So this may not be the kind of advice you are hoping for but in order to really have success with the Mirage, it is important to really learn the aircraft. This goes beyond just understanding the basics of systems operation and gets into the very idea behind the specific model of the Mirage-2000C that we are using and how that specific model fit into France's air power "ecosystem". What I am talking about here is understanding the roles it was realistically expected to fill and what roles would be left to other aircraft in the French Air force.

All of that may seem boring or even pointless in the DCS PvP context but I think really understanding what the Mirage-2000C-RDI S5 (the specific model we have in DCS) is supposed to do and how it is used will help you avoid trying to use it in a way that will only lead to frustration.

On a more general level. I think that a big part of seeing any success with a plane in DCS PvP comes down to knowing everything you can learn about its systems and how they are used. This means knowing all the radar special modes. This means understanding the exact capability of your radar, weapons, ECM, and even your engine and aerodynamic properties. A lot of your opponents are in faster aircraft with better radar and much better weapons and there is a good chance that they have been playing for a while and know their stuff (at least in how it applies to PvP public servers anyway). If you don't bring your "A-game", you are easy meat for them.

Another element to look at is tactics. This is a difficult situation because DCS's PvP servers tend to promote a certain kind of approach that does not jive too well with how air combat would work in the real world. With this in mind, you have to really look at the flow of things on a the server itself and how you can exploit advantages from that flow. For example. It is generally safe to assume that you will be fighting aircraft that can out-range and out-gun you. With that in mind, perhaps it is better to simply avoid straight-on "fair fights" and instead try to find ways to approach the enemy from directions that they are not used to looking.

If I were to frequent a server like the 104th, I would probably spend some time looking at where the combat happens most. Try to determine the routes that both my team and the enemy team are commonly taking to get into combat. From there, I would try to rely on whatever data I could get from a AWACS (if it is a option) or other players. With that data, I would take long, wide routes so that I can intercept other players from angles that there radar can't see and hopefully get the drop on them while they are focused on looking in front where most of the action is going to be.

Another thing I would consider is your altitude. Many will tell you to stay low and there is value in that but flying rather high can also be useful. The Mirage's weapons (especially the Super 530D) work better at higher altitudes so in order to maximize your weapon range, you will need to start getting used to climbing up to about 35,000 feet or more. It may be smart to climb in a direction away from the action so you can approach the combat area at your desired altitude. Many flight simmers tend to not spend a lot of time climbing as that is time spent not fighting. take advantage of that and you will have one more advantage to leverage in a fight.

Finally. I suggest finding a person to wing up with you that you can count on. Someone that knows how to fly and knows how to work with you as a proper team. If you can apply some proper tactics as a two-man team, you will be in a good position to do some damage.

Overall, you should start doing your homework. Hit the manual (it is a important foundation that should not be replaced with more abbreviated material), Chuck's guides, and any meaningful youtube lesson you can find (I suggest xxJohnxx's channel and even Creative Fun's channel for good, useful tutorials) should all be studied alongside any real-life information you can google search about the plane (and the specific version we use in DCS). Doing all this in conjunction with learning about basic tactics will go a long way and will certainly give you a leg-up over some who frequent those servers who don't really bother to do all that book-work.

It may all seem daunting but take it one step at a time. Learning this stuff is not too different from the process one must take to learn how to play on a competitive level (I am talking e-sport style here) on a MOBA or even Counter-strike. The more effort you put into learning, the better you will be and the more enjoyment you will have in the long-term.

Hope you got your fullscreen issue sorted out.

For joysticks... err... how much money do you want to spend? There's something in every price range, but you'll get your money's worth with any of them. You don't need a very expensive piece of hardware to have a great time. I'm using a Sidewinder Force Feedback 2 I bought in 2001, and it's a blast! That said, HOTAS is very nice.

<$30: Logitech Extreme 3D Pro - Get this if you just want something to get you in the air. If you set two of the base buttons to be "modifiers" in the DCS control setup, they'll function like shift keys and effectively give you three sets of the remaining ten keys and HAT. This is also a good stick if you just want something to get you started and intend to move on to a HOTAS soon.

$50-60: Thrustmaster T16000M - Much more precise and significantly better quality. From what I've seen, the centering tension is also better than the Logitech. If you aren't going to drop some money on a HOTAS in the near future, I would recommend going for this instead of the Logitech. It's on back-order, but BH has one of the better prices for this stick. Most places are trying to sell it for ~$70.

Microcenter also appears to have the T16000M on sale for a ridiculously cheap $25. I have no idea why, but there it is. At $25, assuming they're not selling you a box with a picture of the stick, that is an absolute steal.

$80-120: This is HOTAS territory. The Saitek X52 is pretty much the gold standard for starter HOTAS setups, and most people just stick with it. There are plenty of people here who have them. Just ask people about them on the IRC.

$200: You can get a Saitek X-55 for this price, but there have been some reports of quality control issues. It's a very new stick, so you might end up on the wrong side of any teething issues its manufacturing process runs into. Still, it's quite feature-rich, and we've got a few forum members who own them, too.

$450+: Thrustmaster Warthog. It has an absolutely sterling reputation, and by all accounts is the best HOTAS setup on the market right now.

More important than an expensive joystick is a headtracking setup, though. If you don't want to drop a ton of money and can't get both HOTAS and headtracking, I'd get a mid-range joystick like the T16000M and headtracking hardware.

The genuine article (TrackIR 5) works best, but it's pricey. I kludged together my Opentrack setup with a $9 PS3 Eye (didn't even have to remove the IR filter), a few resistors and IR LEDs off Digikey (shipping cost more than the parts, and shipping was under $5), an old "9V" AC-DC adapter I had lying around (actual output 13V!!!) and some photograph film negatives to function as a visible light filter. It works pretty damn well!

I’m about 5 months into DCS. I played some flight sims when I was a kid, 20 years ago, in the Jane’s F/A-18 days, but nothing until DCS. I bought the Flaming Cliffs pack of modules and the A-10C and learned to fly the F-15C mostly at first but slowly read through the 600+ page manual for the A-10C and worked through the training missions and a few campaign missions. The F-15C is great because it doesn’t take too long to learn and you can be having fun shooting down AI flankers in a 10 solid hours of learning and start to get into tactics, the A-10C is definitely the most complicated thing I’ve ever learned for fun. I usually spend a good hr working on A-10C avionics training, then reward myself by jumping in the F-15 when I sit down for a session.

If you do jump into something like the A-10C, I’d recommend getting a quality HOTAS with lots of hat switches, trying to learn the intricacies of avionics and remember keyboard shortcuts and button modifiers is a very big complexity multiplier. I started with a cheap stick then bought the Thrustmaster t16000m and Throttle which works great for F-15, but isn’t quite up to the A-10, so I bought the Warthog stick and use it with the throttle from the t16000.

Monitor used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NB17E0Z

Other Items:
Amazon Basics 6' DisplayPort to HDMI cable ($11)
Scotch-brand Wall Mounting Squares (4lb rated; $5)
and of course the ThrustMaster MFD controlers...

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Was looking at some monitor options and stumbled across the Elecrow 11.6" 1080p LED LCD screen. I did some quick math on the dimensions and it seemed to be the perfect fit for both MFD controllers. Had a tiny bit of bonus money so I pulled the trigger, and yes, it was a perfect fit for the MFDs. Only a tiny bit of screen space is wasted on the bottom. It's a very small lightweight aluminum frame, and the screen is crisp and colorful at 1080p. Only con is the connectors (HDMI/Power) being on the right side; though you could easily flip the monitor in your graphics settings to have it go the other way; but still ends up sticking out the side. The other obvious drawback is not being able to split up the MFD controllers, but I liked the simplicity of keeping them on one screen.

Only took me an entire afternoon to get the monitor setup script (.lua) right... I may have dropped an A-10's worth of F-Bombs... but I managed to figure it out and seem to have a good understanding of it now.

Edit: will post my .lua monitor config once I'm back home.

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Monitor Config Lua Help/tips:

1. DISABLE FULL SCREEN IN DCS
   
   
2. Do the math on your monitor config. You need to add up the total space of your monitors combined together for your DCS views. With both my main monitor and the MFD monitor being 1920x1080 that made this fairly simple. Total screen space 3840x1080, this is what you set your resolution to in DCS (you will most likely need to manually type this in to the DCS options)
   
   
3. Edit your monitor config file (MAKE BACKUP COPIES BEFORE EDITING!). These are located at \DCS World OpenBeta\Config\MonitorSetup\
   
   I tried to show how I did the math on my setup here (sorry I should have picked a better txt color): https://imgur.com/a/TrsIn
   
   

• I'm starting the Center view (my main monitor) at X=1920 (Y=0 will be used most of the time, this is the top of the screen). So I'm telling the system start my main view 1920 pixels from the left. Then the view window is the entire size of the monitor 1920x1080.
  
  
• I tell it to start the LEFT_MFCD in the upper left corner (X=0, Y=0)
  
  
• I tell it to start the RIGHT_MFCD 1070 pixels from the left corner (X=1070, Y=0); for this one I just had to keep playing with the value until I found something that worked well for the spacing. Old guides may tell you that you can edit this file while the game is running, but I had to restart DCS for each change.
  
  
• The size of the MFDs is set to 840x840, which seemed to be a good size for the MFDs.
  
  You can download my .lua file here:
  https://www.dropbox.com/s/5u8wh7r4g6m7omz/MFDTest.lua?dl=0
  
  Hopefully that helps you figure out how to modify the monitorSetup .lua scripts. You'll notice the commented code down below about using IF statements for different aircraft configs; I have not tested this yet.

I am new to DCS, a long time flight sim nut and working on my pilot's license. I bought many of the planes (A-10C, F/A-18C, FC3 and the F-5E). I could not decide so it was better to buy them all since they were on sale lol! What I found out was the F-18 and the F-5E are the two I enjoy with the F-5E what I am enjoying most. I feel more like I am having to work more to fly it but in a good way. Fun to startup but not excessive, fun to fly and land. I think I actually like that I do not have all of the toys. The aggressors campaign for the F-5E has been fun to learn on since I also bought the Nevada map. The F/A-18C is a weapons platform, but the real joy is taking off and landing on a carrier.

I bought a cheap HOTAS as I just could not fly with the XBOX controller. It know that it is not the Warthog HOTAS (maybe Christmas 2019 now that there is the F/A-18 add-on stick), but for $70, I cannot stress how much better it is without a deep investment. I got a friend in on the game and he got the A-10C because he wants close quarters bombing and strafing runs and he bought the PS4 version of my stick and loving it.

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https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-One-xbox/dp/B07643TW2V?th=1

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https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-Flight-playstation-4/dp/B015PJ68BK/

Whats your current specs?

I'd say avoid VR initially, I personally think it is the better overall experience but its a bit tough to learn DCS in and costs more overall in terms of hardware and performance.

So for under $1k budget, I'd get something like this if you can fit it in your space, or you could spend a bit more and get the [warthog]
(https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N77385WVH3Q2D79PYPY2) which is a great setup, just no pedals.

Then, trackir or Open track for sure. And yes, you described how it works but its not a 1:1 head turn, and you can change the sensitivity. I don't really move my head more than 15 degrees or so.

Then I'd suggest buying the F/A-18, its a good mix of difficulty and capability.

After that, I'd go for the bottle neck in your system, but I dunno your specs. I'd suggest a 2070 super if you can afford it, or see if you can pick up some decent components over at /r/hardwareswap

After you've got some hours and feeling like you need more, maybe start saving for a VR headset, I'd suggest the index, but I've heard great things about the rift-s. Odessy + on a budget if need be.

Hey man, great work for a Xbox controller! Next step is a joystick. If you're looking for some cheap ones that'll do everything you need to, the [Logitech Extreme 3D Pro] (https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-963290-0403-Extreme-Joystick-Windows/dp/B00009OY9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497142979&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+extreme+3d+pro) is the place to look, it's around $30 to $40 from most retailers, but the price also equates to lower quality, and not a bad experience but one that could be improved upon significantly. The next step up would be a [VKB Gladiator] (https://www.amazon.com/Gladiator-Joystick-Flight-Simulator-Controller-Stick/dp/B01G6GT49O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497143033&sr=8-1&keywords=VKB%2BGladiator&th=1). A bit of a jump in price (nearly double, can be had for around $100USD +/-$25), but most reviews say it's stellar and a couple people around this subreddit love it. The $200~ price range after that is a bit iffy, as you get sub-par quality most of the time, but the [Thrustmaster T.1600M HOTAS] (https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=pd_cp_63_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01KCHPRXA&pd_rd_r=SX371RPQX69YRDW52JNY&pd_rd_w=8TOqr&pd_rd_wg=NAt9b&psc=1&refRID=SX371RPQX69YRDW52JNY) has kind of alleviated that issue. Most reviews make it out to be excellent for the price. If you've got the change, I think it'd be a great place to start. Other than that there's not much in the $300-$200 price range. In the $500-$400 price range however, there's the one and only [Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00371R8P4/ref=psdc_172487_t5_B01KCHPRXA), which is extremely expensive but modeled after a real A-10C and is of stellar quality. You're going to need rudder pedals if you go that route though, so I'd advise against it as it's got quite a premium to pay.

Glad you're enjoying the hobby, and hopefully you can expand to a stick soon and get even better. No pressure to get one if you're fine with the controller, but it can totally enhance your experience.

Couldn't find an image of this piece in place to be 100% sure how it works, but looking at it, my suggestion would be two steps:

1. Clean the part really well with dishwashing detergent, toothbrush, and cotton swabs to get all the grease and oil off, then repair it with a good reinforced epoxy. Use a screw (with a bit of chapstick on the threads to prevent epoxying in the screw), of the same threads to hold the parts in alignment while the epoxy sets. (This'll make sure the threads remain aligned between the two parts to make sure . It'll likely be stronger than the original plastic the part was made of. Once set, remove screw, apply grease in the threads of the plastic part again, and reassemble.
   
2. If it fails again, I'd drill out the area around the threaded hole in the clip and epoxy in a threaded rod coupler of the same thread. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a16050300ux0583-Stainless-Threaded-Connector/dp/B01IVT9GG0. Alignment will be important, so find a friend with a good drill press or milling machine to drill out the hole to a good fit and alignment.

The X56 is a bit expensive for what it is, and has dubious quality where you either get a stick that works for five years or that breaks after a few days. Supposedly the quality got better when Saitek got bought out, but I don't know how much I trust that.

On the other hand, the T16000M HOTAS is a well-proven stick and throttle combo. It has the same Hall sensors in the stick that the more expensive Warthog stick uses and has a good amount of buttons and hats that it can be used for a variety of aircraft. It is also a twist stick so you can use it for rudder control, and the throttle has a set of paddles that you can use as axis for things like zoom, brakes, rudder, or whatever else you might need.

TL;DR I'd recommend the T16000M HOTAS. And with the money you're saving from the X56 you could pick up TrackIR 5 if you don't already have it.

There's also this pack that comes with the Thrustmaster rudder pedals which are a good quality, and the pack is still less expensive than the X56 by a decent amount. I've also seen this pack on sale down to 150USD so if you're patient you could save a bit of money on it as well.

I don't know what exactly your budget is but it's also worth noting that the Warthog HOTAS tends to go on sale around the Black Friday to Xmas timeframe and you can often find it for 300USD. It's worth noting with this that the Warthog has no axis able to be used for rudders so you would need to buy rudder pedals from somewhere.

Here are my recommendations.

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VR

Keeping your current computer, Oculus Rift is a good option. Light weight, and fits DCS right.

There are a few upcoming VR headsets, but you may have to upgrade your hardware. You can expect an upgrade in another year or later. So, I recommend living with the Rift for an year or 2.

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HOTAS

Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog is the beast I always recommend. You might need a rudder pedal.

Since you love the су-27, VPC Mongoose T-50 might be your choice. Again, you need a throttle from Warthog and a rudder pedal.

You also have Logitech G X56 and X52 Pro. You don't need a rudder pedal in this case, so you can save a lot. I've personally used them both and moved to the Warthog HOTAS.

Lastly, you have Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS, good reviews, best entry level HOTAS.

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Rudders pedals

MFG Crosswind, Slaw Device, Saitek, CH.

> Don't by a plane with complicated systems and tricky/unique flight characteristics if you can't fly an F-15 proficiently. The FC3 planes have simplified systems but most have the same level of flight model. The F-15C and Su-27/33 are 3 of the best air to air planes in the game, so you're not at a disadvantage in that regard, if they were full fidelity they'd probably be even better (more radar modes to work with is one that comes to mind), master these then get the mirage

Thanks I think I'll stick with the FC3 planes mainly the F-15C for now, I heard that Mirage is not ransferable between Steam and Standalone so that might be a problem.

Also Can Steam players play with Standalone players?

> Get a proper hotas before going past the FC3 aircraft

So HOTAS X would be insufficient? I did look at the T16kM do I need the throttle combo? or just the stick? since I see there is what looks like a small throttle slide right there

and what do you think about the VKS Gladiator MkII stick? I've been eyeing it for a while (because I like how it looks, but expensive, I'm probably more likely to get T16K M. )

One last thing, Su-27, the engine won't start, I know the Start up sequence is pretty similar for all FC3 planes, I did the same things I do on the F-15C but the Throttle doesn't respond, there is no engine noise the plane just won' start.

MiG29 did respond to the same start up sequence, (battery>cockpit>engine>Nav lights>flaps)

I have a similar setup for VR, 3xMFD+UFC, it works great, takes a little time to build up the muscle memory, but within a few hours it'll feel quite natural for you. Your setup looks great, I made one of the UFCs mentioned elsewhere in this thread, you will definitely love that upgrade when you do it.


Tip: get some bump dot stickers and place them strategically on your MFDs/UFC. I put big dots on the center button on all 4 sides of my MFDs so I can quicklytell which is the center button, and then small dots on button 1 and 5 on each side. Makes it quick and easy to tell which MFD button your finger is on. something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mixed-Bump-Dots-Sizes-Colors/dp/B00II5TM6W/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=tactile+stickers&qid=1557502249&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Lol, that’s the million dollar question. I’m not sure what your budget is but I seem to think I’ve heard good things about the Thrustmaster T1600 stick and throttle T1600 Amazon. I hope that link works but it looks like the stick and throttle are $129 for the pair and that seems like a good deal to me but I got my setup a few years ago so not sure about the pricing and deals that they have now. My setup is also a Thrustmaster but it’s the Warthog Hotas which is a bit higher on the price scale but I’ve been happy with the brand. I hope this helps a bit.

I can give a little bit of input here since last November i built a new rig for DCS.

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My specs:

9900k OC to 5.1ghz on all cores

32gig ram

2080ti FTW3

HTC Vive

Thrustmaster warthog stick and throttle

Pedals - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PII6YI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Simrig - https://www.volairsim.com/

\^ That simrig was probably the biggest improvement to my experience aside from going to VR. If money is truly no object for you then including that in your plans is a huge bonus.

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In VR i get about 90 80fps with settings turned way up but keep in mind that they are planning a VR overhaul of DCS World soon that should greatly improve performance.

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Hope all that helps! Let me know if you have any questions about my stuff and i would be happy to try to help.

I have this one, priced at $769: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Inspiron-7567-Laptop-i5-7300HQ/dp/B07793DRK9/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JWZ58NRMRWGMBVYHNZ2B

I added ram and an additional ssd.

If portability & cost are your primary considerations, its a good one to get.

You really will want some type of HOTAS (you can get one for as little as $75. A whole other topic, though).

And you will definitely want TrackIR, too.

Nice thing about the above is you can pretty much squeak in right at your budget limit.

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And don't forget to wait for the seasonal sales to buy whatever modules you settle upon, prices are almost always 50% off (except for the newest modules like Hornet).

You can have plenty of fun in the meantime with the totally free Su-25 and toothless TF-51.

I'd really recommend Flaming Cliffs as your first paid module - so many planes and so much variety for the cost of one full fidelity module.

Mirage would be my pick if you insist on full fidelity for your first module.

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p.s.: you're MUCH better off spending your money on the gaming rig. Plenty of good (& fine) girls out there that don't really care how much money you've got. They want you to talk to them, and are tired of only the aggressive dickheads hitting on them and treating them like shit.

The ones that do care about $$ will just piss it away on themselves and leave you with neither in the end.

Boy, wish i'd known the above when I was your age!

Enjoy! Now mod it to make it better!

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Replacement detent - highly recommended

Replacement slew stick

Table mounts

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There are different options for these, but this is what I have. I also got a 10cm stick extension when I bought my MFG Crosswind. Also check out the Thrustmaster MFDs. If you get the MFDs I highly recommend CTS for DCS. There's a bit of a learning curve to get it set up, but once you understand it and are used to it it's wonderful to have intricate profiles for each aircraft without having to develop it yourself. And of course with the MFDs you then have to get a second screen (or screens) to mount them to so you can export the MFDs to them.

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Yeah this is never ending. Welcome to the money pit. :)

It's this: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_4?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=4NCFNXYZ4ONU&keywords=t16000m&qid=1563283031&s=gateway&sprefix=T16%2Caps%2C239&sr=8-4

It's a very good starter system not to expensive but very well made. It was my first Hotas :)

But since Variolamajor wants to sell his warthog i recommend u talk to him first b/c the warthog is way better. If it's to expensive just write me a PM :)

I used to play flight sims (back in Win 98SE days) and I have an ancient HOTAS. If I decide to benchmark DCS, I will buy a new one. I am guessing that something like the Thrustmaster T.Flight Hotas X is entry level, cheap, and probably sufficient.

However, I would like a bit more information about DCS first to make sure it it is not extraordinarily difficult to benchmark in VR. For example, it's pretty hard to create a representative and repeatable benchmark for DiRT: Rally 2.0 (and I have a racing wheel and pedals) but quite easy in Project CARS 2 that allows for replaying races.

Updated: I see someone replied with this suggestion:

https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-3D-Pro-Joystick-Windows/dp/B00009OY9U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=pc+joystick&qid=1574801559&sr=8-3

Thank-you. It isn't cost so much, but I'm mostly interested in determining if it is possible to create a repeatable and *representative* VR benchmark using the base DCS game. If it is, I will do it!

It's a cheap(er) HOTAS, it's biggest upside is a lot of inputs, if you're looking for something that will guarantee to last a long time I wouldn't look at a recent Saitek/Madcatz as a first choice. IMO the throttle is a much nicer unit than the stick and worth hanging on to. The stick layout is okay, my only gripe is the shape of the hats, and unless you have large hands it's a stretch from the base resting position to the top switches, if that base was a half-inch or so higher it would be a lot better.

I have one, and I really like it, I've had it for since mid 2014 and I haven't experienced any failures. I guess I'm lucky, but you get what you pay for for things like this. In fairness, Hotasessesse's across the board have much higher failure rates than any other peripheral input device such as mice and simple sticks like a Logitech Attack-3/5. CH and TM products aren't flawless, but they are better built and more consistent, worth spending the money on if you have it.

However, with the changeover in the parent company (MC -> Logitech) I would keep an eye on them. If you need something right-the-f***-now without spending much, a Thrustmaster T1600M FCS kit just came out as TM's answer to a proper budget hotas, and the reviews are good so far. Just keep in mind that it's built to fit a low cost so don't expect a lot of metal.

This, Rlaxoxo is correct. With CL-Eye Test you can adjust the brightness and contrast wayyyyy down. You can also push the colour into the red spectrum while bring down green and blue. I play in a room with south facing glass doors leading to a balcony and an east facing window. I rarely have external light issues.

By the way, I picked up one of the old PS 3 EYE (this exact model):
http://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-Eye-3/dp/B000VTQ3LU/189-3730229-5569820?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

I didn't have to remove the IR filter (don't know if it even has one). I tested with IR diodes before meddling with it and it works. Now I have a webcam if required and an IR tracking solution that works like a dream. Unless you're sitting in the Sun, you shouldn't have too much trouble.

By the way, if your IR diodes are a little patchy (not too bright and easily lost in Opentrack (don't use the other programs -they're wank by comparison - I've tried them), then switch out the diode(s) which seem weaker with other diodes. There's a myth that you need a specific diode, as long as it's an IR diode it will work. The easiest solution is to get them from old IR TV/DVD/CD remote controls. Some people will have you jump through a whole ritual to get this working, my advice - test at every stage to see if a step is skipable. Example:

1: Get diodes & wire in series to USB
2: Run camera with CL-Eye Test program
Can you see the lights brightly and adjust everything else until it's in shadow? If yes then you only have to set up Opentrack and you're done

> LVDS

Using this guy right here and exporting just like you assumed. I love the setup, and it was really easy to build. Special thanks to /u/thenumberj for the idea!

Ohh lol. Logitech 3d pro?

Also Thrustmaster is coming out with a new hotas!

I know its no warthog but it [looks pretty good! ](http://www.Thrustmaster.com/ VG T.16000M Fcs HOTAS Controller (2960778) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2J26xbQ3MHPTX)

Wait for reviews and see What happens. Also i plan on selling my rudder pedals. I too have the Saitek combat. I really want the MSG crosswinds or something similar lol. But like i said thays 3 or 4 more months at least I'm currently over seas.

Do yourself a favour and get a head tracker. Super easy to build and a fun little project.

1. Build the circuit as shown in the second pic (with USB). The IR leds can be bought from ebay in packs of 5 or from mouser etc
   
   
2. Use this guide for building the headpiece.
   
   
3. Get a ps3eye and remove the ir filter. Video here. Make sure you get the good version of the camera. If you buy from Amazon (or any other place where you can see buyers' comments) people will usually say if it can be modded. You can also use it without removing the filter but it tracks much better if you remove it.
   
   
   Or buy a ready made trackir. The headpiece of the trackir is so shit though that some people actually build this to use with the track ir they bought. Depends if you have money to burn.

After seeing what /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 built the other day, I wanted to give it a go as well! I took most of the parts he used and linked in his thread, but I went with a few more switches as well as a set of POV buttons that have a mode switch to switch them from POV directions to an X-Y axis. The Green button is for the POV mode, and I also moved the Mode LED to the face of the box so you can tell what mode it is in.

I also added some vinyl carbon fiber wrap to give it a nice finish!

Parts links which are the same as /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 for the most part:

Button box: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSRIO

Control board: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK

Push buttons: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T45I7GQ

Toggle switches: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154JY8OA

Carbon Fiber Vinyl Film: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059XCVVO

The LED is a 5mm Green 18mcd with a holder I had around, but any LED would work, just don't go super bright!

Original inspiration here: https://www.reddit.com/r/hoggit/comments/acn7il/scrutes_cheap_dcs_button_box_diy/?st=JQIL5FJK&sh=c37d0a0a

The thing about BVR is that it isn't a science. You can learn all the maneuvers, nomenclature, and tactics, but at the end of the day BVR combat is about 40% luck and 60% art. I think what nealius posted is about the best you'll find outside of military practice. I always recommend Shaw's book but even his book is fairly light on the BVR stuff.

I guess a good way to put it is that the rote learning that most of us are used to gets you about 90% of the way with WVR combat, but with BVR combat it only gets you about 10% of the way. The only way to improve at BVR is practice every situation you can simulate.

Reading that right now last time was when it first came out.. yeah I'm that old.. Audiobook is pretty good though. Another GREAT read is Fight Fight. about a China/USA war scenario in the South China Sea.. Great read.. 3rd book in the series though so while you can pick it up and read it by itself it is best to read the other 2 just for character development. https://www.amazon.com/Fight-Raven-One-Book-ebook/dp/B07GXT4VJP Written by a USN Capt who flew Hornets.

I'd suggest getting the T16000 FCS (with the TWCS throttle) - that's about $100. Then to be honest with your remaining $400, I'd suggest going straight for a Rift for $399 - nothing compares to flying a plane in VR, it's awesome, and DCS works brilliantly with it.

I've seen some being sold for exorbitant amounts, but making your own is quite easy really. You just need some 3/4" copper pipe sections, some pipe cement (unless you really want to solder), and a cable (which is just a PS/2 cable that's had a pin and the plastic center tab removed from the male end, and then cutting shortening the wire to fit in your pipe structure), and some way to attach it all to the stick and the base. I've never actually noted the thread size, but it just so happens that this hose connector has the correct threads on the metal ends to connect to a Warthog and make good parts for an extension. Here's mine.

You can be okay with a mouse and a joystick. I use a Thrustmaster Hotas X ; which has the added bonus of being ps3 compatible. Others like the Cyborg F.L.Y 5

There are other joysticks around and we can help with keymappings for any of them. I'll tell you right now that the HOTAS X is a nice joystick, but only have 1 hat button is a big weakness for it. Other than that, just check reviews and get one you think will work for you.

If you want more help choosing, just make more posts. And if you are interested we can teach you how to fly even without a joystick.

PS: the gold standard for sticks right now is Saitek x52 ; but that's out side your price range

I didn't tried flying it with a keyboard, but even with a stick it is really hard to fly.

I will not recomend you buying it without having AT LEAST a joystick with the rudder binded to the twist axis.

You should really get a joystick, even a cheap one before getting a helo ( I personnaly started playing DCS with this one http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-Flight-Playstation-3/dp/B001CXYMFS )

If you really don't have the money/want to buy a stick, you should get the KA 50, IMO it may be the only contralable helo with the keyboard.

PS: 6 month with only keyboard and mouse !!?? Are you a super saiyan or what?

Edit: I'll try to fly it keyboard only to see how hard it really is ^^

Actually, the lowest they've been on Amazon was $50. I have been tracking them on CamelCamelCamel for a whille now. Check out the page for them. They tend to go for a lot on eBay still. anything less than $60 is probably a good deal. I will probably pick some up soon, but I always have a hard time justifying $50-60 on just the mfd frames, but I have a lot of monitors and will definitely make them live if I ever get them...probably totally worth it for me.

I recently bought a Logitech G13, I plan to use that for the ICP in BMS and the UFC in A10C. I got a good price on eBay, and figure if I don't use it much I can always resell it.

You really don't have much of a HOTAS option with $60.....

This is about it.

Anything else is either only a joystick or over your budget. Save your money and buy something nice like that T16000M HOTAS. You won't regret it. I had one.

That's nice! I wish those Gardena hose attachments were easier to find.

Gardena 39035 5/8-Inch Metal Garden Hose Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VED3KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w06jDb5MB58RQ

Thrustmaster MFDs, I have them as well, they're pretty good

DCS auto maps the controls for you as well, at least on the F18, F16 and A-10 (so any plane they'll be relevant to)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-Replica-Force-Cougar-Flight-Black/dp/B002HH9TRY/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=thrustmasgfetr+mfds&qid=1570374795&sr=8-1-fkmr0

Gotten a LOT of mileage from my Thrustmaster T-Flight Hotas X, and it's lasted for years.

And while there may not be a ton of buttons on the throttle, there are some excellent profiles out there for the A10-C that put it to good use.

For example, this one is hands-down my favorite: https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/1566585/

Great deal here, awesome product....watch Spudknockers YouTube video on track ir setup...you can download his track ir profile

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029M6VKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Head tracking is an advantage, but not a must (I do fine without it). Get yourself an entry level HOTAS such as the thrustmaster t.16000m fcs.

This will give you more than enough money for an entry level module. I'd recommend the non-clicky-cockpit Flaming Cliffs 3 pack and/or a simple clicky-pit plane like the F-5E Tiger II

T16000M FCS
and TFRP
both by Thrustmaster are a good combo and will only run you for about 200.
This guy did a pretty decent review on it.
Or you could do the TFRP pedals with the x-56 AND a trackIR included in the combo on amazon if you don't have one and it will run you just under 500.

The warthog stick and throttle and the TFRP pedals will put you right at 500 via amazon if you don't need trackir so there's that.

I need to get a life.

From what I've read, the Thrustmaster TFRP seem to be a good set for the price, although they are pretty narrow, so bare that in mind.

I personally feel you should get a better set though considering you fly the Huey, such as the MFG Crosswinds

Thanks! I'm definitely trying to get THIS since it is on sale on amazon right now.
Since I've been playing around with mouse+keyboard for so long, how do I look around in a cockpit when I have the throttle and stick? Can I do everything with just this pack?

I've had these ones for about 5 years now and they work like a charm. Super sturdy, big enough that they don't feel like a toy.

I just bought this for the cougar MFDs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L3NN7KB

Haven't gotten it yet but it should work just like the image you posted. Very nice setup btw. That is the sickest case I've ever seen!

Yeah this probably about the cheapest you can go and still get okay performance, as DCS is quite a demanding sim/game. This of course, doesn't include a joystick, which is practically required. Even just an extreme 3d pro would be enough, though something like the T16000M FCS is a really good deal for a full HOTAS setup. This also doesn't include the cost of any DCS modules you might want to buy, so keep that in mind as well.

This book was a good read. These are the same tactics that have basically applied to fighter combat since forever, up to all aspect missiles, but excluding HOB missiles. There are great chapters on 2v1 and 2v2.

This right here, I have the pedals and the throttle. I bought a different joystick though for reasons unknown to me lol. The joystick was fine and more than adequate.

I got the CH Pro Pedals, they work fine for me, had them for 6-8 years iirc. There are definitely better pedals out there, but these are solid and have done me fine. I mostly fly huey and hip recently. biggest complaint I have for them is they slip on floors easily unless you do something to hold them in place, and that the spring or whatever it uses for the rudder mechanism is a little weak ( which can be fine for helis to if you dont want to use rudder trim options).

​

but again, never had a thought to replace them unless I had a LOT! of extra fun money just burning a hole in my pocket.

​

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Products-Pedals-Simulator-300-111/dp/B0000512IE

​

I use them in windows 10 and have had no issues with it.

Mirage is fun, fast and quite simple in the controller department. So you don't need a lot of buttons, though these are always a great addition: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Cougar-Flight-Control-Panels/dp/B002HH9TRY

The only minus about the Mirage is that the air-to-air payload is limited to 2+2 AAMs and the ground attack capability is somewhat limited. But still a great plane!

> then HOTAS. then TrackIR

Head tracking before a HOTAS setup, IMO. The ability to look around your cockpit gives you so much, both in immersion and ability (to dogfight, find switches, etc.). You can get pretty far with a basic joystick.

Unfortunately VR doesn't currently come in the same large price range that joysticks do. You can get a budget joystick like the HOTAS X for $50 new, and I've seen many stories (including myself) of players starting with this exact stick before moving up and getting further invested. Wish there was the same sort of flexibility and "trial run" capability with VR headsets. Hopefully the day where VR options are not all $300+ comes sooner than later.

Big difference between "I'd never go back after trying it" and "don't even bother without it". I'd also probably be addicted to VR after trying it, but it's not stopping me from putting in hundreds of hours without it. Especially OP as a student on a budget, there's so much to do within DCS without VR/headtracking. Even without a joystick, if you were really pushing it (I mean, I've played on an Xbox controller).

Have you considered the Cougar MFDs by Thrustmaster?https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Cougar-Flight-Control-Panels/dp/B002HH9TRY

Plenty of buttons, and if you are creative or into DIY you can even modify them with small screens to function as true MFDs

Specs since I know you fellow neckbeards may want to build one of your own:

Feel free to ask questions and I can do what I can to answer

-i7-6900k

-32gb DDR4

-1TB EVO 840 SSD

-GTX 1080

- $450 Thrustmaster Warthog

-$90 Thrustmaster Rudder Pedals

-$750 Volair Sim Seat

-$800 HTC Vive Pro

>Also, long-time question: how does track IR work? If you turn your head wouldn't you not be able to see the screen?

It's not a 1:1 mapping of movement. You set curves so that (for example) if you turn your head 10 degrees and your view turns thirty. I use OpenTrack and have it set up so pointing my head at the edges of the screen (so I can point my eyes the other way and still be able to see all the screen) turns my in-game view 180 degrees in yaw, and +90/-45 in pitch.

As far as hardware goes, something like a Thrustmaster T1600 FCS pack might work for you; it comes with a stick, throttle and rudder pedals, is reasonably cheap and isn't as massive as something like an X-56.

This screen which I'm pretty sure is Available in the US under a different name
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DCT8PCB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vsHYCbT5AMKEZ

With these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002HH9TRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BtHYCbXDD1MSW

And some of this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00186Q9AK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7tHYCbN4FMBJA

I'm pretty sure the T.16000M FCS comes with a throttle and it currently hovers around 100$

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492797930&sr=8-1&keywords=Thrustmaster+T.16000

The thrustmaster hotas tflight x is a much better and worked really well for me. https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-Flight-Stick-Pc/dp/B001CXYMFS

Off the top of my head, a couple reasons. One is closure rate would be way too fast for reliable missile tracking. There would also be issues with the difficulties in managing the mental calculations the pilot would have to go through in obtaining missile lock, engagement tactics, etc. For the details of all that is involved in air to air combat, I highly recommend the book Fighter Combat: Tactics and Maneuvering by Robert Shaw. It's practically the bible for air to air combat. Once you study that, you'll see why it's not practical, and pick up some good info to help you out as well in your combat flying. https://www.amazon.com/Fighter-Combat-Maneuvering-Robert-Shaw/dp/0870210599

The MDFs look like the cougar MDF with a small LCD behind them.

You can then clip the MDF in DCS to show just on that LCD so that you have a functioning MDF.

something like this and this.

Twist sticks are never good anyway. They're looser, more prone to breaking, and lack precision.

You want those pedals. I've got the VKB T-Rudder Mk4, but that's because I have hardwood floors and any other model would slide all over the place. CH's Pro Rudders are a fine base model for ~$100.

If that's too much, get this instead. It's a step down from the CH (pretty sure the stick twists), but has the whole set. You want those pedals.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/

Yeah, it's m36x2. I think it means 36mm wide with a 2mm pitch... either 2mm per turn or 2 turns per mmm, not sure which though.

The Gardena Hose Repair Kit is a quick and easy way to get threads to build one. I used it along with two copper 3/4" to 1" pipe reducers and a length of 1" PVC to connect them. The cable is a modified PS/2 extension cable shortened to size. There are tons of threads about it on the ED website.

ack.. not too keen on these pedals but lots of reviews saying they're better in person.. https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Flight-Rudder-Pedals-Playstation-4/dp/B015PII6YI

Real tempted..

I used this for the MFD display, with locking velcro to attach the MFDs, works great. You can still use g-sync on the main display, for full-screen or windowed. The button box is from DSD. My only complaint with it is that there's no analog axis inputs from the rotaries, they are just registered as buttons. Still, nicely built boxes so you dont have to DIY.

Here is the Amazon link for anyone interested.
http://www.amazon.com/Fighter-Combat-Maneuvering-Robert-Shaw/dp/0870210599/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374916106&sr=8-1&keywords=fighter+combat+tactics+and+maneuvering

I could not. I just ended up getting these, much happier with them.

It really depends on your budget. This is really nice for the price. Thrustmaster T16000M FCS HOTAS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qrNrDbNGJB55T

I just bought it on Amazon for $100 (£80?). Although it looks like it's currently out of stock.

>will I have to buy a numpad?

Buy a HOTAS. A decent one will give you more than enough buttons, and if you are going to play DCS a lot, it's really the only way to do it.

Otherwise, you'll need several layers of modifier binds.

I use this, it's pretty amazing for it's low price.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-Flight-Stick-pc/dp/B001CXYMFS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526852215&sr=8-2&keywords=thrustmaster

There's also http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Cougar-Flight-Control-Panels/dp/B002HH9TRY which you can attach to a monitor like so: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/5170763514_b1d9085b49_b.jpg

Nice. Apparently the guy I responded to thinks its the "biggest problem in VR simming" so I thought it might be similar to trying to use a keyboard. Also, I dont really have a nose gap in my Vive so i have to lift my HMD every-time which is quite a PITA.

Now thanks to you I am on the Amazon page for MFDs lol

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Cougar-Flight-Control-Panels/dp/B002HH9TRY

Agreed. This is the right ps3eyetoy too!

Those are almost certainly Cougar MFDs, you can get them and just tack them over a normal screen to provide buttons.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Cougar-Flight-Control-Panels/dp/B002HH9TRY?th=1

Fighter Combat: Tactics and Maneuvering https://www.amazon.com/dp/0870210599/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zSRCCbRDCYX8T

This will serve you well.

>alrdeay have an HTC vive and a hotas X (that i do not like ) i have a budget of 150-200€ ( 160 to 220 $ )

Thoughts on the entire setup tm t16000 fcs hotas (not a sponsored link, just generic link to first amazon link).

This one

I've had this book over 20 years, and its still a go to.

https://www.amazon.com/Fighter-Combat-Maneuvering-Robert-Shaw/dp/0870210599

My recommendation is the CH Products Pro Pedals.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Products-Pedals-Simulator-300-111/dp/B0000512IE

I found mine on eBay for under $100.

They are sturdy, and have toe brakes.

About $35

https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-3D-Pro-Joystick-Windows-x/dp/B00009OY9U

What did you think of the x-52?

I picked up one of these figuring I would eventually get the hotas warthog

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CXYMFS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-Joystick-PS3/dp/B001CXYMFS

Here is the VIRPIL adapter kit I was looking at.

Here is the MFG option.

Here is the DIY option I found using the Gardena hose adapter and PS2 extension cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Gardena-39035-8-Inch-Garden-Connector/dp/B002VED3KW

I'm yet to buy hotas, and is thinking of buying 'Logitech G X56 H.O.T.A.S' or 'Thrustmaster T16000M FCS HOTAS'.

And I'm gonna only fly F-16 in Falcon BMS, which has FBW-based maneuvering system.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA

The Thrustmaster T-1600FM might be around your budget if you can get it.

I would suggest adding a little more and getting the Saitek X52

You should read the last Kevin Miller book. It takes place in that theater. (But read the first ones before)

​

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXT4VJP/ref=oh_aui_d_detailpage_o08_?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Should also be mentioned that the Thrustmaster T.Flight Hotas is at a new low price for amazon.

I believe it's M36x2.0. I made an extension out of some copper pipe and a hose connector. The hose connector felt a little bit loose, but ultimately worked.

Album here.

The most common thing I've seen done is to use this Gardena hose repairer for the M36x2 thread: http://www.amazon.com/Gardena-39035-8-Inch-Garden-Connector/dp/B002VED3KW

Then work with PVC, pipe reducers, etc from your local hardware store.

I know you said no Internet ordering, but there it is.

Alright, check out crash laobis youtube channel, and if you wann learn some BFM check out this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCFMX5z-ed4

and this https://www.amazon.com/Fighter-Combat-Maneuvering-Robert-Shaw/dp/0870210599

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA

A few more bucks than your budget, but I've heard nothing but good about it.

And remember the very first lesson in Fighter Combat: Tactics and Maneuvering: if you've got air-to-ground ordnance on board you're a bomber until that ordnance is expended or jettisoned.

Shaw's "Fighter Combat".

A bible for any aspiring combat pilot.

How about a Logitech Extreme 3D which is within my budget and no Track IR, at least not until I buy the hat clip version?

This one: Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder Pc to Joystick for Mame Jamma & Other Pc Fighting Games https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hk0WCbMR3W68J

The "Art of the Kill" video has already been mentioned so I won't bother linking it. It's a good, if very basic, overview of air combat in modern fighters. Other resources to look at, that are unfortunately not video:

• Fighter Combat: Tactics and Maneuvering This is the bible of air combat. If you only get one resource on air combat, make sure it's this one.
  
• n Pursuit: A Pilot's Guide to Online Air Combat This is also rather decent. Do be aware it is more focused WW2 combat than modern fighters. Most of it applies just fine, but a few things in here will get you killed in and against modern fighters.
  
• Stick and Rudder: An Explanation of the Art of Flying This isn't strictly about air combat, but it'll make you a better pilot. If you don't have the basics of flight down perfectly, all you're going to do is flounder around in the air during combat.