> My husband and I are closing on our first home next month (yay!) and we know one of the first things to do is change the locks. A smartlock is very appealing but I'm having trouble deciding which one is best for us, because it seems the more I research the less certain I am. I also have a couple questions.

Ah, the perks of home ownership: feeling optimistic and creative, with a blank canvas in front of you. I envy you both!
Let me tell you why you should be considering the August Smart Lock brand of locks. I will post a small blurb on my contextual background and specific situation (which I posted elsewhere), then briefly mention the possible choices you have, and then respond to your list of requirements and setup,

 

 

PART I: CONTEXT

I am a renter; so obviously a lot of what I have to say may seem irrelevant. Seeing as I do not have a lot of creative control over the property, this would make smart locks tricky business. However, my landlord gave me permissions to replace the entire deadbolt, if I wanted. So, the first set of requirements were drafted as:

MUSTS:

• We have a dog that requires a dog walker to enter our house multiple times a week. The lock must allow this situation in as safe a manner as possible.
  
  
• We do not want to have to make copies of keys
  
  
• We do not want the dog walker (or any visitor) to HAVE TO download an app to get into the property
  
  WANTS:
  
  
• Smart home integrate-able
  
  
• Reliable and well rated
  
  
• Cheap
  
  
• Connect to it remotely to lock/unlock and monitor
  
  
• Z-Wave compatible (came later, when I realized I wanted to have a smart home integration environment)
  
  So, my research began, in earnest. It consumed me. Off the bat, the first names to pop up were August, Kwikset, Schlage and Yale.
  Of those, three had keypad options, which became a requirement soon after. Despite the perks of the Kwikset Kevo (the touch to open), I removed it from the list.
  Also, despite the fiance having an iPhone, I had an Android, so the lock had to have equal footing mobile phone ecosystem-independent. That removed things like Schlage Sense and other Homekit-only options.
  
  The final list:
  
  
• August
  
  
• Yale YRD226 (A really good Yale lock choosing guide here)
  
  
• Schlage Connect
  
  I did a ton of cross referencing, reviews websites, pros and cons, etc etc. And CONSISTENTLY, the August locks were ranked #1/#2/#3. I won't go into too much more detail on what those websites and reviews indicated, I trust you guys can do that research.
  
  But, in the end, the August locks were exactly what we needed, AND more. They were going to be the easiest to set up, and the best out of the gate. So we went with them, and haven't looked back since. My fiance, a "smart-home-always-listening" skeptic, casually told me yesterday how awesome she finds the smart lock.
  
   
  
   
  
  

  PART II: THE LINEUP
  

  
  So, what options to choose from?
  
  

• The August Smart Lock Pro (August | Amazon)
  
  Pros: Most up to date, improved tech under the hood, Z-Wave Plus compatible, Door Sense, most smart home integrations available, Auto lock/unlock
  
  Cons: Most expensive
  
  
• The August Smart Lock 3rd Generation (August | Amazon)
  
  Pros: Improved tech under the hood from the previous generation, Door Sense, Auto lock/unlock, traditional form factor, Cheaper
  
  Cons: No useful smart home integrations (missing homekit, alexa/echo, google home, z wave)
  
  To compare the above two, go here: http://august.com/keyless-entry/
  
  
• The August Smart Lock 2nd Generation (Amazon)
  
  Pros: Most cost effective ($125, but last week it was $109!) but still ranked #1 on MANY reputable websites (CNET | PCMag | etc), has built-in HomeKit capability, can be enhanced with additional devices
  
  Cons: Least impressive underlying tech, no Door Sense capability, no effective smart home integrations
  
   
  
  "Door Sense": The ability to detect "Door open" / "Door Closed" situation.
  
   
  
  An Aside : Enhancement Products
  
  
• The August Smart Keypad (August|Amazon)
  
  This keypad adds in the functionality that you'd expect:
  
  -- keyless code entry for guests (unlimited codes, managed via the app)
  
  -- Lock it with a button press
  
  -- Attachable for preferred outside entry
  
   
  
  
• The August Connect Wifi Bridge (August|Amazon)
  
  This device enables you to link your otherwise-bluetooth-range-only smart lock to your wifi, effectively allowing you to connect and manage the smart lock from ANYWHERE that you have network connectivity. With it, you can:
  
  -- Remotely lock/unlock your door
  
  -- Receive alerts on any actions taken on your door remotely
  
  -- have faster access to your lock as your app selects the best connection to use
  
   
  
  

  PART 2.5: BUNDLES/SALE
  

  
  Consider price-watching for sales; I saw the 2nd gen for, like $109...
  Personally, I jumped when the Smart Lock Pro + Wifi bridge bundle went on sale for $229 (same price as the lock itself), and the keypad was $55, on Amazon.
  
  

• August Smart Lock Pro + Connect Wifi: AMAZON $249 | AUGUST $249
  
  
• Sale price - August Smart lock 2nd Gen HomeKit: AMAZON $125 !!
  
  
• August Smart Lock 3rd Generation + Connect Wifi: AUGUST $199
  
   
  
   
  
  PART III : Why the August Locks work for your situation (below)

I too am starting out and evaluating Home Automation solutions.

BASIC HOME AUTOMATION ARCHITECTURE

The Basic Home Automation Architecture, independent of a specific technology stack, entails:

1. CENTRAL CONTROLLING SOFTWARE.

The controlling software might be:

• Installed on your PC. For example HomeSeer's HS2;
  
• Implemented as firmware on a dedicated hardware device supplied by the manufacturer. For example Mi Casa Verde's VeraLite or HomeSeer's HomeTroller-SE; or
  
• Running on a mini PC you build for the purpose. For example running HomeSeer's HS2 on a Intel NUC Kit DC3217IYE.
  
  As for Raspberry PI ... Mi Casa Verde's VeraLite runs on its own dedicated Linux box. I don't know of any Home Control Software that is offered as Linux Software only. A Raspberry Pi, although a linux platform, therefore wouldn't seem to be a solution to work with Mi Casa Verde.
  
  HomeSeer HS2 only supports windows. HomeSeer HS3, the next software version to be released, is meant to support Linux (in addition to windows). So although Raspberry PI does not support Windows and does not run WINE, perhaps HomeSeer's HS3 will run on it. Or maybe Raspberry PI is not powerful enough.
  
  This software that (centrally) controls your devices is exposed to you as a web interface for setup, direct device control, scripting scenarios, and monitoring power. So the web interface works in a similar fashion to the web interface your router exposes.
  
  2. HARDWARE TO RUN YOUR CENTRAL CONTROLLING SOFTWARE.
  
  See above.
  
  3. PROTOCOL INTERFACE HARDWARE
  
  Either:
  
  
• As an additional piece of hardware, like Homesetting's Zwave USB Controller's or (preferred) Aeon Labs Z-Wave Z-Stick Series 2 USB Dongle. This will plug into whatever hardware is running your (central) controlling software; or
  
• Built into the Central Controlling Hardware Unit (e.g. Mi Casa Verde's VeraLite has a built in Protocol Interface for Z-wave).
  
  There are many Home Automation Protocols. These include Insteon, KNX, UPB, X10, Zigbee, Z-Wave. Z-Wave seems to be emerging as the most popular. X-10 seems to be dying. HomeSeer supports, with an accompanying Hardware Protocol "Interface", all of the protocols except for Zigbee and KNX. Mi Casa Verde supports (built-in) Z-Wave only.
  
  Z-Wave is cool because it is: wireless; mesh (proximate nodes in the network can make distant nodes accessible to the Central Controller that otherwise would not be); and has many cool products already available.
  
  4. END USE DEVICES.
  
  This includes switches (in wall or plug in), motion detectors, lights, cameras, etc. These end use devices support one protocol. That is, one of Insteon, KNX, UPB, X10, Zigbee, Z-Wave, etc.
  
  Aeotec (also referenced as "Aeon Labs") has several cool Z-wave products.
  
  CONTROLLING YOUR FAN
  
  > It makes it look like you can put this behind a regular, non-zwave switch... after which both that switch and the zwave switch can turn a light on and off.
  
  > Could this be used inside the light fixture of a ceiling fan? I'd like to be able to use the chain, and those are simple toggle (mechanical) switches as well.
  
  I don't have the personal experience to verify all this but it looks like the product you linked to is one of three types of Aeotec Aeon Labs "In-Wall Z-Wave Control"s. The three being:
  
  
• "Micro Smart Dimmer", for lights.
  
• "MIcro Smart Switch", for your power outlets (for any appliance including plug in lights). This seems to be the product you linked to.
  
• "Micro Smart Motor Controller", which presumably will be suited for fan control (???). This is said to be able to "Open/Close control via Z-Wave, manual wall switch, and/or built-in button". So I see no reason why you couldn't just pull the chain to override whatever Z-wave commands you had previously sent (but someone with personal experience needs to chime in here).
  
  WHICH HOME AUTOMATION SOLUTION?
  
  I'm tossing up between Mi Casa Verde's VeraLite and a HomeSeer Solution. Edit: But a Raspberry Pi solution needs looking into. That has the potential to blow these competitors out of the water.
  
  Mi Casa Verde is much cheaper, a little more open in broad terms, has an outstanding user created and free Android Client (AutHomationHD), and sufficient energy monitoring options. But it has has poor documentation, messy security issues, scripting deficiencies (mitigated by user created plug-ins).
  
  HomeSeer is expensive, a little bit closed in broad terms (they don't like you talking about competitor's products in their forums for example), doesn't yet have a polished native Android Client (they do have an Android solution that works), energy monitoring I have yet to research, relatively good documentation (but could be improved), apparently solid security solutions (more research by me required), and good scripting/programming options.
  
  HomeSeer uses exposes a .Net and .Aspx Api which I favour. Mi Casa Verde exposes "Luup (Lua-UPnP) is Mi Casa Verde’s new software engine which incorporates Lua, a popular scripting language, and UPnP, the industry standard way to control devices." http://wiki.mios.com/index.php/Luup_Intro. I'd never heard of this "popular scripting language" before. I'm loathe to learn a new one (on top of those I do know or am learning).
  
  http://www.smartthings.com/ requires a connection to the cloud. I don't like that as a requirement. For security reasons I'd like to be able to either have the option to disable remote access or have remote access with my own certificates. Cloud solutions make it easy, moreover, for companies to subscribe your arse.
  
  As for the Protocol, I'm set on Z-wave. I intend to purchase Aetoc:
  
  
• Z-stick, as the Hardware Protocol Interface; and
  
• Several Z-Wave Plug-In Switch Controllers;
  
  HOLD OFF FOR 3 - 6 MONTHS?
  
  It might be prudent to wait for 3 to 6 months to see how the Home Automation scene will shake out:
  
  
• HomeSeer is yet to release it's HS3 which is a substantial rewrite. It might be worth letting that release stabilise.
  
• Google might be in the wings ready to pounce with its Android @ Home solution. But I worry about any Google solution requiring a cloud connection.
  
• Mi Casa Verde might get its act together with respect to documentation and security issues.
  
• Another company might come along and do it right.
  
  Aeotec have yet to release their LED Bulb which will be: directly controlled (wirelessly with Z-wave); dimmable; and variable over the full colour spectrum. While there is no need to wait for this to setup a Home Automation System I would hold off on those parts of the lighting solution. For example I wouldn't bother installing light wall switches or buying a Phillips Hue setup.
  
  At the moment there exists no Home Automation company/solution that does it right. It therefore remains wide open as a opportunity for: an open source project; a business started by some tech savy entrepreneur.
  
  EDITS
  
  Edit 01: A shit load of editing and tidying up ... still ongoing.
  
  Edit 02: Under "WHICH HOME AUTOMATION SOLUTION?" Added explicit mention of which protocol I intend to get: Z-Wave.
  
  Edit 03: But a Raspberry Pi solution needs looking into. That has the potential to blow these competitors out of the water.
  
  Edit 04: Formatted the parts of Basic Home Automation Architecture into subheadings.
  
  Edit 05: Added info about the Central Controlling Software exposing a web interface. Added info about end use devices only supporting one protocol.

Okay let's start from the beginning- each of your devices needs to be machine-controllable.

Lights- you can use smart bulbs (Hue etc) or you can use lighting controllers (smart light switches, plug-in dimmer modules, etc). Either way you'll either need a network like Z-Wave or Zigbee or Insteon to control them, which will require a USB RF interface. You could use all WiFi devices but I don't recommend this.

TV- that probably means infrared. Some TVs you can control by serial port, other TVs you can control with network traffic. 99% chance infrared is your best bet though.

Fan- if this is a plug-in fan you can use a plug-in switch module. What kind of fan is it?

Xbox- probably via IR.

Voice control- Alexa or Google Home.

Hub- Home Assistant works, HomeSeer costs money but might be easier to set up.

So to break this down, you need to find a way to interface all these devices with your hub. Let's assume you're using HA.

For the lights, you need a primary control technology, that'll be Z-Wave, Zigbee, Insteon, etc. I suggest Z-Wave as it's got better support in both Home Assistant and HomeSeer. That unfortunately rules out Hue bulbs, but it means you can instead get nice Z-Wave smart light switches and use your existing bulbs. Here's a popular one. If you want super controllability check out the HomeSeer branded switches- they'll work fine with Home Assistant, they have several LEDs that you can program to do whatever, you can decouple the switch (so pushing the button doesn't turn on the light but rather sends a Z-Wave command), program double/triple/quadruple tap actions, etc.

Note that if you really really want Hue lights, Home Assistant and HomeSeer both (somewhat) support ZigBee. You can also buy a Hue Bridge, which is basically an Ethernet-Zigbee interface that's Hue-proprietary, and link that to HA or HomeSeer.

Fan- if it's a plug in fan you need a plug-in appliance/switch module. Here's one. If you have a ceiling fan type thing you'll need a ceiling fan switch. Here's one of those (HomeSeer makes one too).

IR (TV, Xbox, etc)- probably BroadLink devices or Global Cache iTach. Note that if you try HomeSeer, Global Cache works, Broadlink I think does not.

Voice commands- How to integrate Alexa and Home Assistant.

You'll want to look at Smart things by Samsung or even a hubitat with z wave motion sensors, door sensors and z wave light switches.

Smart things

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=smartthings&qid=1568218834&s=hi&sr=1-4

Hubitat

https://www.amazon.com/Hubitat-Elevation-Home-Automation-Hub/dp/B07D19VVTX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11LGAJMZT4XTM&keywords=hubitat&qid=1568218857&s=hi&sprefix=Hubitat%2Ctools%2C181&sr=1-4

If you go the z wave /z wave plus route things tend to be much more stable and you can build a interference free IOT network. Zigbee runs on 2.4ghz so its generally less preferred to z wave that operates at a interferance-FREE 800-900 MHz.

Things like the GE Z wave light switches are great for a good reliable IOT network.


GE Z wave light switch & Extender

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=zwave+ge+light+switch&qid=1568218742&s=gateway&sr=8-2

For locks I highly recommend the Keyless Yale locks. $98 a piece, very reliable and they work great with a z wave network. They also use a hardened steel strike plate, a solid steel body, a tamper alarm, a anti saw dead bolt core and cant be picked.

​

You'll want a good quality door sensor, good reliable ones are few and far between so make sure you get something that has great amazon reviews. Dont cheap out here as flaky contact sensors are everywhere and its not worth the $5 when it doesn work half the time.


Z Wave Door Sensor


https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29QS4YGELWFZR&keywords=zwave+door+sensor&qid=1568220339&s=hi&sprefix=Z+wave+door%2Ctools%2C170&sr=1-4


Yale Z wave YRD110ZW619 Dead bolt

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PM6V1XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I also use an Abode Security System thats z wave based with my z wave locks feeding in to it. Abode is great as its got all the fancy features other alarm systems offer but has no monthly charge!!


Abode Security System

https://goabode.com/?rfsn=2685339.3291b5


​

For Smart outlets I dont have any z wave ones yet, just a couple of TP-Link kasa ones. I would probably go for GE in wall outlets though. DONT SKIMP on your outlets, lesser known brands have been know to catch on fire!

I have 19 kasa light bulbs and they work pretty darn good, but I would recommend GE outlets for much better home automation. Smart light bulbs are good for basic stuff but once someone turns off the light switch you cant turn them back on until you flip the switch.


Kasa Light Bulbs LB110

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-LB110-Smart-Wi-Fi-Dimmable/dp/B01HXM8XE2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Kasa+bulbs&qid=1568220252&s=hi&sr=1-5

Please note that Smart things and Hubitat are booth good in there own respects, Smart things is good for people who know how to use a computer but are not power users. Hubitat is great for people who own a github account and really want the full automation experience. Hubitat runs most/all IOT commands locally and doesn't rely on the cloud for processing.

I skipped hubitat and went for HASSIO, I really, REALLY, dont recommend this rout unless your a computer tech as the learning curb can be really steep!!! It runs on your own server, I use the VB version


HASSIO

https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/

OpenHAB is probably the way you want to go with this. OpenHAB basically just provides you with an API that you can use to send predefined commands to it's supported hardware. It's nice because it can connect to tons of proprietary gear...someone's spent the time looking up documentation or reverse engineering the particular ZigBee or Z-Wave commands and implementing it for you. If you like really low level stuff, you can actually skip OpenHAB entirely and send the commands yourself. It's more involved but still possible.

Home automation devices are largely all ZigBee or Z-Wave these days. Z-Wave is more widely used. You can get a Z-Wave USB stick like this and get started. That should work with OpenHAB on Windows, Linux, or Raspberry Pi. It basically just creates a new device on the mesh network that can send commands to other things. Very little is hardwired anymore and battery life for most things is 1-2 years easy.

Unless you really like building your own hardware, I would mostly stick with what's already out there. You can't beat the quality and battery life of some of these products. As long as a proprietary HUB isn't required then it's fine.

As far as manual overrides, that's going to vary. If you build your system right you should be able to completely shut off all of your automation software and still use your house normally. Here's a good read that was recently posted about this. So for a thermostat, make sure you have a physical thermostat where cloud operation is secondary and only an added convenience just in case your Internet goes down. For lights, don't just fill your house with Hue lights that you can only turn on from an app. Your wall switches still need to work. Physical redundancy is largely up to you as the system manager but be sure to not buy devices that require an Internet connection in order to work.

The best advice I have is to take your time. I was new to this a couple months ago but I've been following this subreddit very actively. There's a lot to learn and home automation is still young enough that everyone in the game is still sort of finding their way. We don't know all the answers yet so sometimes you just have to research a lot and figure it out.

Edit: I'm working on my own open source home automation software solution that I will likely use alongside OpenHAB. It's web based and is slowly getting there. PM me if you're interested and I can set up my demo for you.

Here's what you asked for

Hub:
Wink Hub 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D2e7ybH4AEXCA

Bulbs:
Hue White Ambiance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESW34RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_B0e7ybX5B7KF0

Lock:
August Smart Lock (2nd Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168IXNZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_R3e7ybSK95NFG

Outlets:
GE Z-Wave Wireless Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_04e7ybQXPB1TX

Based on what you said about a nice slick UI I think the Wink 2 wins that battle over a Samsung Smart Things hub. Plus if you get into adding shades Lutron makes a nice z wave shade called the Serena and the Wink 2 can operate Lutron devices without needing another hub. It's not as customizable as Smart Things, but I think it works well and has good support behind it.

The Hue Ambiance bulbs are nice, does tons of white light shades only so it fits your requirements there. You will need a Hue bridge, but that integrates with the Wink 2 nicely.

If you can get the August lock with Z-wave functionality I'd go with that over what I linked because I think the normal August is pretty shit, but it's the only lock I know of where you can assign one time use codes or time sensitive ones. Getting the normal (Bluetooth) August lock online requires the August Connect and its a buggy piece of shit that barely works even with the best connection and very close to the lock. Maybe software will\has fixed it but in my prior experience with it I was very not impressed. You can also add a keypad to the August on the secured side of the door. All those extras add up though, but you can do everything you said was required with the August that I believe no other lock can do.

The outlets are pretty self explanatory, work off Z-wave and only one plug is automated the other is always on.

Alexa can integrate with everything I listed, all you need to do is give everything a unique name and have her find the smart home devices and you can give simple commands like, "Alexa turn off kitchen light" and it'll do it.

You could definitely get more complicated setups but all of these things will work together, you could even pair your Ecobee with the Wink 2 if you wanted to.

I have two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Control-Smartphone-Simple/dp/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1543109259&sr=1-2&keywords=Harmony+remote


I dont even know where my original fan remotes are anymore. Two are Hunter Douglas, big ones like 52”, and one is something like a Fanimation fan or something like that.



The fan itself is inconsequential. Depending on where you live and the home improvement stores you have, you will find after market fan controllers. Some of those should work with Harmony, too. I personally have never needed to tinker with those but I heard there is a forum out there somewhere where they’ve mapped what controllers work with Harmony.


It would probably still just be easier to call the Harmony support people and reach out to the support folks for whatever fan you’re looking at to see what they say.

You could try fishing a neutral wire from the ceiling fixturewall outlet to the switchbox. I've done it in my house, but I don't know if I would try it in an apartment.

Alternative products: Since this switch controls an outlet, it's against code to use a dimmer switch on it. And dimmer switches are the only "smart" products I'm aware of that can operate without a neutral.

You're probably better off replacing the wall outlet with a smart outlet or any smart wall wart. Here's GE's in-wall smart outlet since you seem to be leaning toward zwave already.

You can control that smart outlet with something like GE's wall controller or velcro an aeotec minimote to the wall and use that. Even better - you could use an Amazon Echo for control - I rarely physically interact with smart switches since I got a modicum of automation running and a few Echos around the house for voice control.

Good choices. Z-Wave in particular is a great platform. It's supported by a hundred manufacturers. It's super low power - Z-Wave devices can have battery life of several years. Z-Wave devices can run with standalone open-source hubs, so you can avoid dependencies on third parties. You can configure SmartThings so most automations happen in the hub, without Internet activity - specifically "Smart Lighting SmartApp" actions like time or sunset-based lighting, or a motion detector turning on a light.

I am not a fan of Wi-Fi smart home devices. Wi-Fi has high power requirements and generally can't run on batteries; it's often in a congested radio band; and most Wi-Fi smart devices rely on proprietary cloud services so if the vendor shuts down your device stops working.

I have a Schlage Connect lock, but that's largely because I already had Schlage locks in my home so it was easy to rekey it to match. I can remotely lock and unlock the door, check the lock status, and add codes for visitors.

For a thermostat, you can use a relatively inexpensive GoControl or Radio Thermostat model. People love the styling of Nest and Ecobee devices but they have no functional advantages over these cheaper units. I have the GoControl model with an external 24V transformer - it's worked great for three years.

Your camera setup will probably remain separate from your home automation.

That's an interesting approach. But 2x $32 micro switch/dimmer, plus $40 scene controller is $100 minimum. Even if I was happy with my old fan, that set up won't give me control over the speed of the fan remotely. I thought that dimmers should not be used to control fan speed.

Unless I am looking at the wrong parts:
Aeon Labs DSC26103-ZWUS - Z-Wave In-Wall Micro Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWBNAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SZ6CzbJ281ENH

GE 45631 Z-Wave Wireless Keypad Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OUWABU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P06CzbWC2KG9Z

For half that price I can get this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Wink-Enabled-White-Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Premier-Remote-Control-99432/206591100

That controller gives me speed and light control (with dimming) at a remote on the wall and in Wink. I would guess it's just zwave, so SmartThings might work with it too.

I would go for the $50 controller if I liked my existing fans, but part of the drive is that I don't like the style, and one fan is dying. I like that $200 fan that includes the automation better than any $150 fan I have seen, so it's a net savings too.

I also have a situation that may not work with those micro components anyway. My fan was wired power to fixture, then switches. So I don't have any real neutrals at my switches for the scene controller. Like this:
http://www.easy-do-it-yourself-home-improvements.com/images/wiring-a-4-way-switch.jpg

depending on your hub - I have smartthings
you should have several choices
you'll need to figure the max current draw of the fan or the HP
then install the appropriate switch

easiest would be the wall switch and some temp sensors, if it wil handle the load

I have the go control - originally for my old garage door (programmed as a momentary switch) - it will handle 20 amps and is cheap.

GE also has a 40 amp heavy zwave switch - for $150ish

with the smartthings hub you could program time on, time off , on for event, off for event , (event could be window opens , temp specified, etc) and then run time for specific period of time or if temp is satisfied with enough connected things you can control all kinds of things - fan included :)
good luck


direct load good for 20amps

GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1

https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YX3EFBFRGMTV783BT193

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BB38NVA9J8T5JFDE3QTJ

Incandescent - Minimum Load: 40W, Maximum Load: 960W
Motor – 1/2HP
Resistive – 1800W

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave is in fact pretty well standardized. It is license-encumbered but currently ubiquitous enough that you can be reasonably sure that most any Z-Wave switch you buy is going to work with any Z-Wave hub.

OpenHAB is pretty complicated but if you want to roll your own solution it's a solid starting point. You're going to need a Z-Wave interface which you can pass through to your Linux VM if your hypervisor supports it. Alternately, you can run OpenHAB on an RPi with this device plugged in.

Finally, you might find that getting started with an existing hardware solution like SmartThings or Vera might be a cheap ($100) way to bootstrap the project so you aren't forced into rolling everything yourself, allowing you to start by working on the use case instead of the infrastructure.

Yes, I use the Lutron connected remotes with Hue exclusively and they work great. A fantastic workaround for the lack of a true on-wall switch for Hue products which is existing gang plate friendly.

Sure, you can use the Hue dimmer but it looks out of place when next to an existing light switch.

Installation is simple. The important part is to pair the remote to the Hue hub to get the remote on the same zigbee channel. It won't show up in the Hue app so it won't be obvious if the pairing was successful. This makes sure the bulb stays connected to he Hue hub after the remote pairs with the bulb.

For instructions on pairing, check the #3 top rated customer review on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014STZASK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482202187&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=lutron+connected+bulb+remote&dpPl=1&dpID=310BUkrwnfL&ref=plSrch

The hub by itself is still on sale on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010NZV0GE
Unless you need every part of the kit that is cheaper.
Also the GE light switches are only $32 on amazon right now and pretty easy to install if you know how to turn off your breaker. So I would definitely go that route unless you want the floodlights to change colors (for Christmas or Halloween).

Also you can throw in an amazon echo or google home (I like it better already) and you can use your voice to set the thermostats control those outlets and control the floodlights.

Feel free to ask further questions.

You are welcome, as far as the camera goes I search on eBay and use the keywords "Vivint ping camera" (I am unsure how to link an auction from my phone. As far as add ons to my system I use 2gig PIR1 Passive Infrared Motion Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TZ73C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ng.CzbM9GCJSE for the motion sensor, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wi.Czb8H4K514 for my dimmers, Previous Model: GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1i.CzbBD0V1RF for my ceiling fans, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12721 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lj.CzbQAY9KV4 for my outlets. I have found home automation to be addicting and expensive haha.

Ok cool, so there really isn't anything out there that I was missing. Something like this should work, too, right?

MHCOZY WiFi Wireless Smart Switch Relay Module for Smart Home 5V 5V/12V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/

I would have to use the eWeLink app on my phone and IFTTT to make things talk to one another. I wish there was a Smart Life (Tuya) dry contact sensor or switch to use. I already have a bunch of their smart plugs and would have rather used the same Smart Life app that I am used to.

Security: Look at it this way, How often are you opening windows, and forgetting to close and relock them? A contact sensor only works at the point of contact. IE, If the window is broken into (The glass is broken), the contact sensor will still show closed.

There goes the security argument out the window.

As far as automation, sure, sensors on windows would be a plus, but if you're doing something just checking if ANY window is open, You might try a hardwired solution and wire it to one sensor. You can get hardwired contacts for somewhere around 3 USD a pop. Combine that with one Ecolink door and window sensor (That has a hardwire port on it) and you'd be good to go.

Homeassistant supports Alarm Decoder and Envisalink (Two solutions I used just for this purpose) as well as a couple of others, but if youve already got a hardwired solution, That'd be your way to go.

I have all of my outdoor lighting automated.

• Front Porch
  
• Back Door
  
• Back Deck
  
• Detached Garage Light
  
• Low Voltage Outdoor lighting
  
  In combination with a few other devices, door sensors, ring door bell for motion, garage door automation (MyQ) etc. I can setup a multitude of different scenarios. Open the front door, lights go full brightness, close door dim them back down. Motion from the ring at night, crank the brightness up. Open the garage door, turn on the light above the garage to full brightness. Most of the lights turn on about 15 mins before sunset with some nice transitions in brightness.
  
  I use GE Z-Wave Outdoor Modules that I plug into the low voltage transformers that are always set to the on position. That way I can just toggle the switch on thus turning on the transformer and the lights.
  
  
  In most of the outdoor fixtures I use Smart Bulbs (the lights that are shielded from the elements). My front porch I use Hue Color that I automated for holiday lights. I have a detached garage that I
  put in a Lutron Caseta dimmer since the switch was in the house.
  
  
  Essentially I used a variety of devices to tackle each lighting situation based on what would work best and then automate everything with Home Assistant. You can see all my devices and automations here.
  

Out of the box solution? Get a smart bulb (plenty of reviews to determine which is best for you), a SmartThings hub, and if your phone doesn't handle location well, a presence sensor. With my phone there's no need for a dedicated presence sensor.

Hopefully someone can weigh in a good bulb option.

SmartThings hub: www.smile.amazon.com/dp/B010NZV0GE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8nxsyb8CV5CWS

Arrival Sensor: https://www.smile.amazon.com/dp/B00GM7V8I8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vCxsyb4878G7S

Your scenario you want is very basic, so a small amount of research should be enough to get a solution going. My experience is with SmartThings, so I can't speak to other options.

There is no 2 device single gang zwave switch on the market at the moment. Most people here either:

• expand the box to be a double gang box and then install a z-wave switch for the lights example, and a z-wave switch for the fan. example It's dimmable (3 speeds)
  
  
• Put a single zwave switch in the wall for the lights, and then put a remote dimmer unit for the fan that hides in the electrical box above the ceiling fan. This limits control to an app, voice with google home/alexa, or getting some sort of zwave multi button scene control to stick on the wall.
  
  
• A modification of the previous. Put remote dimmer/switch for BOTH the light and the fan in the electrical box above the fan (may not fit) and then put a zwave scene controller in the original single gang box switch location.
  
  I was fortunate to have double gang boxes in my house, so I was able to use the seperate GE light and fan switches. Both work well.

Lutron makes great smart switches. As others mentioned occupancy sensors are better than smart switches for high traffic areas like kitchens, bathrooms, hallways and smart switches are better in bedrooms, living rooms, etc.

Yes but how do I fit two switches where only one was before and without running another 3 way switch wire?
Is it as simple as getting a dual rocker switch like https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-Single-Pole-Decorator-Combination-Residential/dp/B075KJMSP3 and a couple of relays like these https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8 ?
It seems like an overly complicated solution to me and i'm not even sure if it would work.

For what you are trying to achieve, z-wave and/or zigbee will do you best. The first thing you are going to need is a smart hub that has z-wave and/or zigbee radios. I use Samsung SmartThings, and it's decent and has both radios. There are other options on the market, but I think SmartThings is probably the most popular one on the market.

I can link you some products that I have in my house that work great with my SmartThings hub, and will work with various other hubs on the market.

Fan Control (speed only, not light)

Motion sensor (You can normally find these for $30 or less)

Door/window sensor

Dimmer switch

Garage door opener

Plug in outlet

If you have Home Assistant already running, from what I understand, you should be able to get a USB zwave dongle like this. You'll then be able to connect zwave devices to Home Assistant, which will take care of your light switches.
Harmony Hub is great. The phone app is ok at best but tied with Echo or G home it works great.

So the main level has every door pre-wired and all windows that open on the main level pre-wired as well. Pre-wired door photos.

I assume you were talking about these Ecolink sensors? Just curious why go for a z-wave sensor and also hardwire it? Is this for redundancy?

I came across these that mount flush inside the door and I think would be hardwired the same way as the Ecolink sensor (GPIOs on a rPi in my case)? That way they're completely invisible and a lot less expensive to outfit every door and window. I don't know if these would work well for the front door that has the pre-wire on the hinge side of the door (depending on how far apart they need to get), but they should work for the other door that has the wires on the deadbolt side?

Again, super new to this, so I may be missing something. I really appreciate the help!

So I wanted to report back for people who come across this thread. Based on Manbient's recommendation, I am using Lutron Connected Remotes in conjunction with the Phillips Hue Bulbs and it works great. "Pairing" the Remote to the Hue hub first and then to each bulb you want it to control worked flawlessly. I tested a network outtage and the lutron remote still controls the lights just fine. The Hue remote DOES NOT, as it reports back to the hub to control the lights. While the hue remote has more options for colors, etc, the Lutron remotes seem to be a little more failproof, and can be mounted on the wall in standard faceplates. In fact, I think you can use the Pico wallplate bracket to give it the built-in look. Here is a link to that product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZRAFEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This seems like the best solution for now, and it is still completely customizeable/reworkable, unlike wired switches or other combos.

The only thing that I don't like about the Lutron Connected remotes is that a single tap of the "on" button doesn't bring them back to their previously dimmed level, it turns them on full blast. Of course, you can just use the dim up and down buttons, but I got used to Lutron's Maestro switches where a single tap would bring the lights up to the previous level and a double tap would bring them on full. I did a little searching and couldn't find whether this was possible with the connected remote.
Anyone have a solution or workaround for that?
Thanks again everyone!

Edit: grammar

Gotcha, well you can still get the basic hub+remote for $135 it looks. I have this, but never use the remote really, cause everything is exposed as switches to my other systems.

There's plenty you can do if you know how to code, but if you aren't writing plugins for HASS you can get away with just learning some basic YAML pretty much, and there's tons of useful resources on the website.

I use this sensor for a lot of things, including temp/humidity. It's also got a light sensor, if that would be in any way helpful there as well. It shows up in HASS with the assortment of sensors that can then be tied to whatever automations and such.

>From what I am reading I can just buy a Z-Wave USB stick and use it on the PC that is hosting HASS?

Yup. I have one of these, works great: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/

>Are there zwave switches that arent a physical switch?

How about just getting one of these? https://smile.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Toggle-Shields/dp/B00DTXKOTM/

>Are there any zwave relays?

There are, though I'm not aware of anything 12v.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/

https://smile.amazon.com/Vision-Z-Wave-Micro-Switch-relay/dp/B00R883YKU/

>Any ideas on how that can be accomplished?

No idea on this on. I'm sure it's possible with HASS. At the very least you can call and external script to make said announcement. You might ask out on the forums, they have a good community: https://community.home-assistant.io/

Cheers!

I am legitimately curious. This is my setup. I bought a basic fan/light combo and hooked it up to one of these for fan control.

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fYuMBbGS9JV7X

Then I hooked up the light to the matching zwave on/off. I can control both phone phone, wall or Alexa via smartthings. This was my test run before I set up the entire house like this. If there is a better way I am open to it.

Most of this stuff is pretty easy to search for:

• If you want to use the pi than I'd recommend hassio https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/installation/ it should work fine for what you want to do
  
  
• To make it work with zwave you can use any of the sticks on this page https://www.home-assistant.io/docs/z-wave/controllers/ . If you want to do both zwave and zigbee you'll need to use something like this one https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-HUSBZB-1-USB-Hub/dp/B01GJ826F8
  
  
• If you want to control home assistant through homekit you can follow these instructions https://www.home-assistant.io/components/homekit/ , I don't know how well it works since I haven't used it before.
  
  
• For a thermostat you can use any zwave one. It doesn't need to be smart, because you'll just be controlling it from home assistant. For temp sensors, they don't have to pair with the thermostat, just use any zwave temp sensor. I use this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZIRV40K , it's not the prettiest but it works pretty well.

you want the hub primarily for the wifi capabilities so it works with Smartthings or your other wifi devices that you may use. The hub also lets you connect it with alexa so you can turn on activities, change channels, volume, etc. As you mentioned, it does also allow control for stuff in cabinets

/u/glennbarosen get this if you want home control buttons on the remote

or get this if you dont care for home control on your remote. you can still have the activities communicate with your smart home devices (smart bulbs, smart plugs, etc). I use this one and it works great with my smart home stuff

Either choice will let you control your TV, sound system, apple tv, ps4 (ps4 only after it was powered on by controller)

Oh yeah, something like that would be cool after I decide on the hub (I'm like 90% sure I'll want some zwave compatibility). Kind of wish it ALSO had dumb timer options for my hub-less self now, but that is one to definitely bookmark for me, thanks!

This isn't time sensitive, I was just looking in my backyard and thought I'd post to see what was out there. I wonder if I can actually just install one of these (or similiar) in the GFCI outlet (that is encased) actually...

It depends on your platform. I use SmartThings, you can set something up that when one light is turned on, others do as well. Kind of like grouping them as a scene selection. With other HA systems, you can set up where a quick double tap to one switch turns on others.

If you're on straight z wave, then you could use the GE zwave keypad and group scenes. It's a nice item, doesn't need a gang box, just mount to the wall. Available on Amazon.

Is there a reason why you're going the bulb route instead of the smart switches? Depending on how many bulbs you get, the cost can get up there pretty quickly. I use Lutron Caseta switches and they integrate well to smartthings and then into google home. I also have 4 downlights with hue bulbs in them for one room. What I did was just wired the power wires behind the switch to always have power to the fixture. At the time, Lutron sold a remote that looked the the other smart switches I installed that could control hue light bulbs. I just put it over the wires with a bracket that Lutron made as well.

The switched I used to control fan is below and have had no issues since installing. Again this is just for the fan though as all my fan fixtures in my home were wired to have lights and fan on a separate switches

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x0bbBb4TQTWNZ

I was waiting for the same thing, but I finally bit the bullet and got a dual relay. It's a tight fit (you'll need to stuff it all the way to the back), but I got it to work in a standard single-gang box. Your existing switches will work and will toggle on/off regardless of the position of the switch. The switch also reports instant status to your z-wave controller.

The model I listed is good because the built in wires minimize the number of wire nuts you'll need (only 2 to connect the red and yellow wires to the 2 loads), which conserves space. You can follow along with the wiring guide in the comments. It's cheap and works great for on/off control.

1. Get a Harmony Hub + remote like this
   
2. In the Harmony app, add your devices (TV, Roku, etc).
   
3. In the Harmony app, create activities for "watch plex", "watch youtube". Basically they turn on the tv, set the input to roku (hdmi2 or whatever), then tell the roku to start a specific roku channel.
   
4. In the Smartthings app, add your Harmony hub. It will find the "watch plex" and "watch youtube" activities.
   
5. In the Google Home app, add your Smartthings controller. Now Google Home knows about those activities also.
   
   So I'll say "hey google start plex" and it will reply "ok starting the watch plex" (yeah, bad grammar) and then do the right thing. I still use the roku (or harmony) remote for choosing shows, pausing/forwading, etc. But it's handy to be able to use Google Home voice commands to start/stop things.

I don't have any automation yet, still reading up. As well as a tilt sensor, you could probably also use a window/door sensor but it definitely looks like the tilt/sensor is easier to install as it is one piece.

http://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Z-Wave-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU/

Currently controlling Honeywell thermostat with Alexa. Single zone

The purpose of my question is to cool the bedroom(s) at night and let the rest of the house be warmer. I just don't want to drop the cash required for a 4 zone system.


If I wired on or off electrical dampers with something like:

Enerwave Z-Wave Plus ZWN-RSM1 Smart Hidden Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights & Ceiling Fans, Neutral Wire Required, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IMYhzbYEXKF1J

Couldn't I simply close off all areas I don't need cooled. I would imagine someone smarter than me could set up a web interface or IFTTT that could reference wifi temp sensors to command av on off based on which dampers were on or off.

If you want smart lights and need a physical switch to use I would suggest two options.

The first option is to upgrade your wall switches. I have used these before and have had no issues Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch for Wall & Ceiling Lights, PD-6WCL-WH, White, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x-WWBbPYJ4QP5

If you want to go the Hue light route you can buy wireless switches and use the included 3m mounting to hang it on your wall Philips Hue Smart Dimmer Switch with Remote (Installation-Free, Smart Home, Exclusively for Philips Hue Smart Bulbs), 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IeXWBb02JK78V

To close the loop here, I did end up buying https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dt2.Bb22CPRK7 and it was super easy to setup and seems to be working fine. Thanks for all the advice and debate

Hub + smart control (not Elite/950) is on sale for $64.99. I know it doesn't look like it but this DOES include the hub. You could buy the 950 separately and pair it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7rxHzb1BEGVSF

Edit: Looks like Amazon is out of stock. Best Buy has it for the same price with free 2-day shipping.

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

I have these bulbs and this z stick. I use home assistant as my hub. It's very flexible at what it can do, but with that flexibility comes complication and a learning curve. But I think it was well worth it.

I've got those bulbs in almost every light and lamp in my house, along with an Amazon Echo, a couple of motion sensors, and a lot of timing based automation. Look thorough the components home assistant supports for an idea of what you can do.

edit:
The bulbs I linked also come with little plastic bits to go over the switches so people don't turn them off accidentally.

I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but the other day I asked a similar question.

I wanted my Hues to be powered all the time so I could always use the Hue app alone to turn them on, or have them return to the previous scene, or all the other benefits that come with leaving the Hues powered.

However, I wanted to replace the Decora switches/dimmers with something that could be used to control the Hues but without cutting power. So my solution is what /u/rittyroo suggested, I purchased a Lutron Connected Bulb Remote with the wallplate bracket and hooked it up to the Hues. It's not designed for them, but there is a Youtube video showing how to set it up and it worked for me no problem.

I still have to actually hardwire the lights to always-on, though I haven't yet because they're three-way switches which are outside of my expertise - I'll be getting an electrician or someone smarter than me to do it. But the system works exactly like I had hoped.

It won't get bricked by the Harmony Link Hub end of life. But I can't say Logitech won't decide in the future to brick the Harmony Hub too.

If it makes you feel any better, i just bought this and liking it so far.

I have used these successfully with Smartthings and Vera Lite. You only need one to work with two switches. It must be wired in the box behind the switches, so you need to make sure you've got room in your box. Based on the instructions, I'm certain there is a European variant. I hope this helps.

Vision In Wall Z-Wave Micro Switch, 2 relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R883YKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q6iIAbKA2Z3JB

Yep :) Should be good, all these USB sticks do is create a serial port which you point the OpenHAB Z-Wave binding to and OpenHAB runs anywhere a JVM runs!

Besides the UZB Z-Wave USB stick mentioned above, there are a few other models that are known to work with OpenHAB. eg. Z-Stick

You can go with something like this, which has terminals under the cover for you to wire external sensors to. I had embedded contact sensors in my exterior doors from an old (previous owner's) home security system. I just took the existing wiring, stripped the jacket back, used a multimeter to test resistance and verify the hardwired sensors still worked (installer had used 4-wire on one of the runs, even though only 2 were used, so I also had to verify which wires), and wired it into the sensor.

Here's a video I found of the terminals for external sensors.

Now I have a sleek z-wave door sensor install, with the wireless sensors tucked out of sight. Hopefully that helps!

> See, I didn't even know that was a thing. Glad I opened this thread already. So much to research.
>
> Thanks.

No prob man, and they really do work amazingly. Here's an amazon link for the z-wave plus outlets:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07361JZ2H/

Here's the link for the switches and add-on switches. They come in either paddle or toggle style, and in a couple colors. You can also get switches that support dimming if that's your thing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGOHM/

If it's a 3-way, the functionality of the add-on will match that of the other switch. So if it's a dimmer on the main side, the add-on has that as well.

I hope your have better luck than me. When I posted my review on Amazon, I got a few responses from people having the same problem.

I moved them from doors to windows since they weren't reliable enough to monitor my doors. I figured if I used them less, they'd be more reliable. However, I'd open the kitchen window to let some fresh air in, and the sensor wouldn't pick up that the window opened. That was the last straw, and I returned them as defective to Amazon. Replaced them with Ecolink units, and they've been bang on reliable. Ecolink's motion sensors have also been pretty solid, although they lack the feature set of more expensive multisensor units.

I use this one from amazon. It has a 120v coil so it is easier to control. I use a contactor the pool pump and one for the pool cleaner pump controlled with a dual relay z wave micro switch. But any z wave switch that you can mount will work. Many pool pump panels have a place for a switch to mount. Mine is inside the panel and works great.

So I just found this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G7OD1F8/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_of_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6PCH57G7MYJCP1PFDJ8M

There are a bunch of different brands and sizes on Amazon.

Basically I think you could put that inside the fan electrical box. I'm assuming the fan power and light power should be separated in there? (If not you're out of options). If they are you still wouldn't be able to control fan speed but it would go to whatever setting is on the pull chain. It's z-wave so you'd still need something like Smartthings hub which isnt horrible because then you can open a door of other things to control if you choose.

Wow. I've got 2 of the SC7s and they are really great, especially for the price. I found 2 sites selling them for ~44 + shipping, but I got them originally for <$40 shipped. There is the GE 45631, but it appears to work as a full secondary controller rather than a scene controller. Even the Levitons are more expensive now!

Aeotec has the minimote, but it's not wall-mounted--there's this Eaton controller, but it's still more than the Enerwaves for fewer buttons. The only other ones I know of are the Evolve LCD scene controllers, but they're way expensive. Really not sure what happened to the trusty Enerwaves...

Vision In Wall Z-Wave Micro Switch, 2 relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R883YKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VXCbAb1NHPYCC

Yep basically it goes on between your existing light switches and your home's wiring. The instructions arent super helpful but the top Amazon review has a really useful wiring diagram.

Hey, /u/kerj!

My company (Jasco) manufactures both the Enbrighten lights and the GE Z-Wave Outdoor Switch. The model 12720 you linked is the old Z-Wave model. We have a newer Z-Wave Plus model, 14284. It is rated for 150 feet of range.

Setup is indeed a bit more than just buying the Outdoor Switch to be able to automate your Enbrighten lights (or whatever else you choose to plug into it). You'll need a Z-Wave hub like /u/bfodder said. SmartThings, Wink, any of those will do. Wink even makes the Wink Hub v1 and sells it for around $30 on Amazon. You could get that and our Outdoor Switch and you'd be all set.

You can send ON/OFF commands from your phone at any time and also setup schedules (depending on how well the hub manufacturer you pick has integrated your selected Z-Wave device).

Feel free to ping any other questions you might have off me.

I think your most elegant solution would be to use this door sensor. It has 2 contacts inside that can be hooked up to preexisting wiring (aka already installed door sensor). I think one contact wired to each side of the contacts of the doorbell would work. When the button is pressed, it completes the circuit. You could also get creative and mount this back by the chime, just figure out which wires to hook it up to.

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FKG.AbWW6XQEJ

To my knowledge you aren't supposed to use a dimmer on a fan

A dual-relay Z-wave in-box switch and a Z-wave scene controller will get you wireless control over the fan however in order to get Alexa compatibility, you're going to need a hub of some sort (Vera, Wink, Smartthings). Alexa's commands go from the Amazon Voice Service to the smart hub's API, and the hub is what sends the actual commands to turn on/off things. Without a hub, there's nothing for Alexa to see much less control.

Trying to find a wifi solution to this is either going to be expensive as it's a single-purpose item (to control a fan/light kit) or it's going to be kludgy. You could technically get a couple of wifi appliance switches (one for fan, one for lights), however it's going to be a bit ugly up on the ceiling or on the wall wherever you tap in to get the power for the ceiling fan.

Harmony hub and remote $45.

Logitech Harmony Smart Control with Smartphone App and Simple All In One Remote - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Jga-BbSYJ98KX

>The important question to ask is what kind of 3-phase (they aren’t all alike), and what voltage is our lighting? (A possible answer not compatible with your switch is 277v).

Yeah I mean if he has 3 phase with a neutral they are most likely 277vac. Seems like the z-wave relay/contactor method is the best bet at like ~$40. Can be installed in the ceiling at the fixture or in the switch box - See Here . You can get straight up switches for 277vac but they are price $65 - See Here

I don't have Aeotec's door sensor but I do have the multisensor 6. I also will not be buying any more sensors after that experience. Hardwired the motion sensor works ok but I question the readings I get from the other sensors. On batteries it's a crapshoot, which sucks because I really want more to use some more of those types of sensors.

For door sensors I'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5HB4U5 and they work great.

1. https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Intelligent-Technology-Z-Wave-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479555866&sr=1-1&keywords=zwave+window+sensor
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/Everspring-Z-Wave-Water-Flood-Sensor/dp/B006TG9W4Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479555890&sr=1-1&keywords=water+leak+zwave
   
   
3. Same sensor as one, just seal it with silicone
   
   
4. It's natively supported by ST.
   
   
5. Personal opinion, throwing it out before it gets the best of you.

Logitech Harmony Home Control - 8 Devices (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3RFC4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_oChywbW3JCBG7

This is the version I got. I didn't want to have to use my phone ever time I want to change the channel or something

Works great

Just bought a few of these at Home Depot: http://amzn.com/B014STZASK

I think theyre exactly what you're looking for. They can control most smart bulbs and are sized like a regular decora switch so you can pop it in the wall and have it look like it's wired in.

I'm using ones purchased from Amazon (http://amzn.com/B00JJY0S4G) or Home Depot (http://goo.gl/eZKEkK). You can control the dimmer from the remote and from the (Wink) hub. Neat setup. Looks like you can get the dimmer module without the remote from Amazon (http://amzn.com/B00KLAXFQA).

OK i'm not very familiar with how the Zwave stick's work so i'm definitely not the one to point you in the right direction sorry about that. but i did find this on amazon its $80 bucks idk if that will work it has great reviews http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Battery-Powered-Z-Wave-Thermostat-GC-TBZ48/dp/B00ZIRV40K/ref=sr_1_50?ie=UTF8&qid=1449175522&sr=8-50-spons&keywords=zwave+thermostat&psc=1

Retro-fit smart locks do it (eg this). Gives the best of both worlds. Allows bumping, picking and drilling like a traditional lock, and getting hacked from any developing country.

Coupon Codes - Rakuten.com has a coupon code (BF20) that takes 20% off your entire order. Can only be used once!

• Z-Wave
  
  GE Z-Wave Plus 15-amp 3-way White/Almond Rocker Light Switch -
  $26.59
  
  GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Control Light Switch, Toggle Style, On/Off, in-Wall, White - $25.71
  
  Dome Home Automation Water Shut-Off Valve - for Pipes up to 1 1/2", White - $72.17
  
  GE Z-Wave Plus 15-amp 3-way White/Almond Rocker Light Switch - $30.09
  
  GE Z-Wave/ZigBee/Bluetooth 0-amp 3-way White/Almond Rocker Light Switch - $13.99
  
  GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Lighting & Appliance Control Outdoor Module, On/Off - $27.19
  
  
  
• Streaming Devices
  
  [ROKU ULTRA STREAMING MEDIA PLAYER] (https://www.rakuten.com/shop/electronic-express/product/4661R/) - $49.99
  
  Chromecast Audio - $15
  
  
• Voice Assistants
  
  Google Home - $79
  
  Nest Hello Video Doorbell w/ 1-yr. Nest Aware + Google Home Mini - $180
  
  Google Home Hub - $100 + $30 Kohls Cash

Lutron Caseta PD-6WCL-WH Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch or PD-6ANS-WH Smart Lighting Switch are "single-pole" switches, but they will require L-BDG-WH Caseta Wireless Smart Bridge to function properly.

If you are a diyer you could use a nodemcu(ESP8266) https://smile.amazon.com/KeeYees-Internet-Development-Wireless-Compatible/dp/B07HF44GBT/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=nodemcu&qid=1575090035&s=electronics&sr=1-4

+ quad relay board(https://smile.amazon.com/Huayao-Channel-Optocoupler-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B07DN8DTRW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=3+channel+relay&qid=1575090005&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNzVXTkU1VFE4MkZKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjMzMDI3MVczRDJDUzk2NzQ2UiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDEwODgzMkgySFREVTBEU0VRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==)

+ project box and some wires

Both the relays and the nodemcu power off 5v so you could just use a cell phone charging brick to power them. You could have it controlled via a lightweight webpage or you could just have the phone use REST API to send messages to trigger the open/closed/stop.

​

​

EDIT: Or more simply, 3x https://smile.amazon.com/MHCOZY-Wireless-Switch-applied-control/dp/B0752P57ZG + ewelink app. Personally I am more of a fan of the DIY opinion as I like local control without phone home worries

I used this for an outlet most recemtly:
GoControl WO15Z-1 Z-Wave Single Wall Outlet, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WW8iybATX7XG4

This is the plug in lamp dimmer module
GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Control, Z-Wave, Plug-In, White, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMM7E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2X8iybCTVJ88R

This is the regular switch... Notice this is a "regular" style but you can find it in paddle as well.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Smart Toggle Switch, In-Wall, White, 12727 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d08iybB4CY6HZ

I'm not aware of any off the shelf units, but you may be able to mod something like this. To my knowledge these just turn a standard deadbolt, if you modify the mechanism in the unit, or the key for your door you probably be able to get it to work.

Edit: I just noticed the keyhole looks like it's also a button, so maybe not without a complicated work around.

Sorry, by fan controller I mean basically a switch that would require a hub. For example you could get this z-wave switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2VSKBbVYZQZJ6

And a smartthings hub (or rpi with home assistant). Like I said, I recommend this approach in particular if you want to get more into home automation.

Ok so once I buy this https://www.amazon.com/August-Smart-Lock-Connect-technology/dp/B0752V8D8D/

​

I need to install the connect for the bridge? And also the SmarThings hub since it has z-wave? I think I am mixing up things but is that the general gist?

​

Thanks!

Any smart switch or dimmer functions by replacing the existing switch with a relay or dimmer, and that relay is controller by the buttons on the front of the switch. When you say multi-zone, are you talking about multi-way? As in, 3-way, 4-way, etc? In that case, the idea is not to control multiple loads from one location, but rather, one load from multiple locations. If you want to control multiple loads from one location, you could pick up some aeotech micro switches for each fixture, and associate those to a scene controller, like this one.

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hyk1BbSPGZBWT

The whole web interface got scrapped because developer quit on me, it works but i wasnt happy the way it looked or the way it worked just in case heres the link:

Dashboard | GPIO Server

EDIT: They are private, when i get home i will make them public

​

I also uploaded the code im currently using for Homebridge (Siri Video Intercom), Home Assistant (tablet mounted interface), Telegram (voice recording of visitor) for another reddit user here it is:

Smart Telegram Intercom

My first time actually sharing my code so just send me a DM if you need any explaining or help setting up

You can get 4-zone wall controllers.

Like this. GE 45631 Z-Wave Wireless Keypad Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OUWABU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_MopxwbJ3M98R3

Then get one of these for each group you want to control

Aeon Labs DSC26103-ZWUS - Z-Wave In-Wall Micro Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWBNAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_LppxwbZ9DQ7SX

That should do it. You might need an electrician to safely install the relays for each group.

Almost! The lutron stuff is a bit confusing. They have their pico/caseta line (which you don't want), and their connected bulb line.

You want this, this, and this. Of course, you'll also need Zigbee bulbs (Osram Lightify, GE Link, etc) and a compatible hub, such as Wink. If you'd like, you can get a second remote and keep it beside your bed.


Hope this helps!

Ecolink Intelligent Technology Z-Wave Easy Install, Battery Operated, White & Brown (DWZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wGXvybTMAV6VJ is what I have for a door sensor. But you'll just have to keep looking for something a bit cheaper.

Try GE outdoor plug made by Jasco I think! I have one and works fine and just saw it’s on sale!!! GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Outdoor Smart Plug Switch, 1 On/Off Outlet, Weather-Resi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_p9MMDbX15AAQZ

Here's the zwave device I used with the wire terminals: https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5

Edit: More details about how I wired it...

Took the chime box off the wall and there were two cables, each with a pair of wires inside. One pair of wires goes to the transformer in the basement. The other pair of wires goes to the doorbell itself. That's what you want to plug into the doohickey linked above. Someone presses the doorbell and it closes the contact. Home Assistant will see the zwave device status as "open" as if a door is open. This is what you trigger your automation off of.

How to know which pair of wires is the one you want? Either get a multimeter and put it across a pair while you're five year old pushes the doorbell. Does resistance go to zero? If so, you found it.

The other method is to just rub the wires in a pair together. The one that sparks is not the one you want because that goes to your transformer (you're seeing 12 volts spark across it. Not much more dangerous than licking a 9v battery). Grab the other pair and plug them into the doohickey. This is the method I used.

I just taped the door sensor to the top of the chime box and I can't see it from the ground.

The issue I had when trying to figure this out was that any Z-Wave contact sensor I tried to use while it was mounted inside the mailbox was unreliable, at best. The RF signal was getting blocked by the mailbox when it was closed. I solved it by mounting this open/close sensor to the underside of the mailbox, mounting this magnetic sensor inside the mailbox at the door, and running the lead from the magnetic sensor through a tiny hole in the bottom of the mailbox, connecting it to the auxiliary input terminals hidden inside the z-wave sensor. If that doesn't make sense, DM me.

​

Edit: Obviously this would also require a hub such as SmartThings, etc., to send out the notifications.

Edit 2: After a quick search, it appears there may be some WiFi dry contact sensors out there that would probably do what you want without the need for a separate hub, if you have signal at the mailbox.

If you want to go with hue then something like this is your option for controlling from the wall (as well as phone and voice)

Turn on the light switch, cover it so it doesn't get turned back off, and mount this next to it.

Or if you don't want to use hue and just want to control your existing light bulb in the fixture from the wall/phone/voice then this and this would work, or whatever switch hub combo works with google home

you could try one of these in-wall relay micro switches. I have these in my bathroom dual gangbox and they work really great. Single relay switches should be smaller too.

Confirmed. The switch is wired to the load and the remote is wall mounted acting as your second switch. I have this arrangement in both the kitchen and the living room and it works wonderfully.

Switch

Wall Plate

You could just replace can switch one for one.

Or use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OUWABU?pc_redir=T1

Though I think that'd require each light to be a smart bulb/outlet.

I've used these in places where I have smart bulbs

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK

Can be used as a handheld remote control, or there is a bracket you can get for like $5 to mount it in an existing box on your wall

Thanks for the suggestions!

While searching for the Aeotec switch, I came across the Vision In Wall Z-Wave Micro Switch, 2 relay (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R883YKU/), which seems to be a cheaper alternative.

Some of the window/door sensors allow you to connect a pair of wires which in this case would allow you to connect alarm wire to the sensor and trigger the z-wave part by pressing the doorbell button connected to the other end of the wire.
I used this one: https://amzn.com/B00HPIYJWU

Once you can send a z-wave command via the doorbell button then you can make it do a number of things. I trigger an MP3 using this z-wave doorbell: https://amzn.com/B0182XG27Q (note that bad reviews are related the the useless wireless button, the actual device is really useful as you can add many other sounds and trigger them with any number of z-wave devices) as well as flash the strobe on a couple of these: https://amzn.com/B00MNYSEKY. Other people have it flash lights, play sounds from their Sonos speakers etc.
This all is assuming you have some sort of HA hub as well.

these are used for junction box and flat surface install. Pretty simple. I even have one on my headboard ;)

Thats awesome that you know how to do that [but...](Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lNxVzbT62R80Z)

the other ways are probably safer if you are not sure.

but just a receptacle like http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY
and a relay.


its very similar to this setup
http://www.instructables.com/id/Z-Wave-Garage-Door-Opener-Switch/?ALLSTEPS


plus i have a zwave door / window sensor to tell me the garage door state.

I created a setup where I have the exact same thing happen for me, but with the coffee machine. I use Vera, but I'm guessing you might be able to create something for another home automation setup...

Here's the basic setup:
Security sensor mat placed in my bed senses when I'm laying down. The mat is wired into a door sensor. When I wake up, the door sensor trips and starts a timer. Should the timer complete, the appliance plug the coffee machine is plugged into turns on. 1/2 hour later it automatically shuts off.

The reason for the timer is so that I can get up in the middle of the night for a snack and come back to bed WITHOUT turning the coffee machine on.

Here's what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GUNX7WY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5HB4U5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd make sure to use these two items together. I pulled the alarm off of the door mat and wired the two wires into the phoenix connector screws already supplied inside the door sensor. The timer was a plug-in in the vera controller.

https://github.com/openhab/openhab/wiki/Z-Wave-Binding

> There seems to be an issue with the binding running on the latest oracle VM Beta, on ARM based architectures (e.g. raspberry PI). It manifests itself as messages being received multiple times and causes considerable problems with the operation of the binding. In large networks, the queue can get extremely long, which can delay initialisation considerably and cause potentially long delays in sending messages. Some time has been spent investigating this issue and a solution has not been found - the issue doesn't appear to be with the binding itself as the problem doesn't manifest itself on an other platform. If anyone with the hardware and programming experience can help with this it would be useful.

That's just what this page says. You have a Z-Stick like this connected to an RPi and it's working fine?

Like this that allows you to connect external wires, so you can connect the original switch to it.

GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Heavy Duty 40 Amp Smart Switch, Indoor/Outdoor Rated 120-277V, Energy Monitoring, Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14285, Metal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8uihDb7SNW5NN

My recommendation would be to have a normal switch in A and disconnect all the other switches and wires(you can probably just leave them cold in the wall) and then use pico remotes in the other two locations. They're great because they can screw in right into a standard cover plate. And be placed anywhere since they're battery operated. Sadly they only work with other lutron switches even through a third party hub like a wink hub so you'd have to replace your leviton switch with a lutron one.
Also the dimmable Lutrons don't require a neutral as they basically keep the circuit open just a tiny bit so the can stay powered(think powerdraw of like miliamps) but not enough for the bulbs to turn on.


Switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/

Pico + bracket x 2:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQ0/

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Wallplate-Bracket-PICO-WBX-ADAPT/dp/B00JZRAFEA/


You can buy them separately if you already have existing ecosystem or you can get this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3XJUAD

Ignoring the wall plug for a moment, what does the plug on the actual ac look like?

Edit: I'm dumb you posted a picture...

I don't have any good suggestions for a 20 amp appliance but I'll see what I can dig up.

Edit 2: I'm really only finding one other option and it seems even more expensive. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_lhhZBb20AGE7N

It might be worth checking the model of the actual unit. We have two of the same model, one wired for 220v 40 amp and one for 110v 15 amp. Depending it might be as easy as swapping the power cord on the ac which would probably be the cheapest option.

I haven't bought anything at best buy in about 10 years so I don't know why they'd phase it out, but I bought my hub at Amazon, where it's in stock:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010NZV0GE

While the official website does ship to Canada, it's expensive.

• Microsoft Store but out of stock.
  
• Amazon.com (US) ships to Canada: $99 + $8.27 + $13.27 customs.
  
  When I did my (non-ST) build, most of my stuff came from the US. US parcel receivers such as CBI USA and newer services like Cross Border Pickups are the way to go.

It sounds like you want an on/off switch.

GE makes those but other manufacturers probably do as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGOHM/ref=crt_ewc_title_gw_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

>My ideal solution would be a USB or other interfaced radio

Like this? http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA02203-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B003MWQ30E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414026842&sr=8-1&keywords=z+stick

I've heard it doesn't work great with R-Pi, but you could probably find a similar platform it cooperates with.

I've been using the GE z-wave toggle switches with SmartThings and haven't had any issues. I initially tried to avoid replacing the switches and put in the smart bulbs but our issue was if the power goes out in the middle of the night the bulbs would then turn on and wake us up. The other added benefit with the switches is that anyone visiting doesn't need anything special to control the lights (parents, friends, dog watchers).

Just as a tip, when installing the switches we had issues with them working in the first hour or so (probably due to needing to do the z-wave network repair). Initially the z-wave network repair was failing. What I found worked was to install the switch, connect to smartthings and do setup for a couple minutes, flip breaker to kill power to switch for 10 minutes, turn breaker back on, and then run the z-wave network repair. Since doing that process we've had zero issues. Hope this helps you out.

Edit: Here is the link to how to do SmartThings Z-Wave Repair :) https://support.smartthings.com/hc/en-us/articles/200981864-How-do-I-make-sure-my-Z-Wave-devices-are-routing-optimally-

Something like this wouldn't work?

http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC06106-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Energy/dp/B007UZH7B8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454273432&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+plug

or this :
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC25-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B00H5U40L8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1454273504&sr=8-4&keywords=zwave+plug+dimmer

or this:
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1454273504&sr=8-8&keywords=zwave+plug+dimmer

Here's a z-wave switch to control the heater. Check out the reviews for how people use it. I happened to stumble on this giant switch the other day.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor, For Pool Pumps, Hot Water Heaters, Landscape Lighting, and Other Large Appliances, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12726

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KccUzbDE8D5R2

Just in case you end up having to buy a new one, it's $50 on Amazon. Samsung SmartThings Smart Home Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010NZV0GE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wdRKzbY1DK5X9

Thanks for the info. Is this the same one?

https://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-VRI06-1LZ-Incandescent-Capable-Dimmer/dp/B001U3Z6YG

It mentions requiring a remote to program them.

I already have this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Aeon-DSA02203-ZWUS-Labs-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B003MWQ30E/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1463539102&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=zwave+usb

That's just an on/off switch - full fan control with speeds is not supported by the caseta line.

Edit: for example, this GE z-wave fan switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/

i was thinking i could get a z-wave wall switch like this. I was hoping there was some kind of wireless/battery powered z-wave switch that i could put on the bedside tables.

On a side note is that GE add on switches basically what i am looking for but not wireless? Meaning do the ge add-on switches simply trigger a different z-wave control (for instance the switch by the door)?

What do you want to control it with? If it is just Wifi, then use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/MHCOZY-Wireless-Switch-applied-control/dp/B0752P57ZG

You would need to get another remote and program it to the gate. With a little bit of solder, you can attach wires to the button on the board. This guy's review of that product shows what you would need to do: https://www.amazon.com/vdp/2d41de2fcc14425f9ef192da63d2e047?ref=dp_vse_rvc0

Don't recommend a non-Z-wave plus item, there's zero reason why you'd ever want to save a buck or two and gimp your network with a non-plus. Sure, it's fine if you already own it, but if you are getting something new, always go with the Z-wave plus model: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Weather-Resistant-Required-Works-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3

The one I have, as best I can tell, is no longer being produced (probably for good reason - there were a number of complaints about the zwave antenna).

It's direct successor is [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Direct-Wire-Appliances-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0)

There's also the Aeotec I mentioned, which is less polished but offers energy readings as well [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W)

u/jam905 linked me some instructions a while back to the relay he mentioned. In the end I was lazy and unmotivated so went with a finished product, but I'm sure it's a solid DIY. Cheaper and probably a little easier to repair should any one component fail.

Looking Through Amazon - Search for Zwave Scene

ZWN-SC7 Z-Wave 7-Button Scene Controller
---------------------------------------------------------------
Leviton VRCS4-M0Z Vizia RF + 4-Button Remote Scene Controller
--------------------------------------------------------------
GE 45631 Z-Wave Wireless Keypad Controller
-------------------------------------------------------------
Just the top most three.

Yeah this switch and this remote should work together.

Also probably want this mount

This Switch is a cheaper option since I just saw the cost effective part. I have one of each and tbh the rocker looks nicer but functionally they both are equal and I didnt have the added expensive of a new wall plate with this one.

I've only seen one safe z-wave controlled control for A/C units, which is this guy:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Appliance-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0


You need motor-rated relays to make/break the circuit, which the cheap stuff on the market doesn't have. Its much easier connecting a circuit running lights or even a heater than it is one running a large motor such as the compressor inside an A/C unit. Peak AMP draws are insane.

I have the same issue so i went with the following:

1 x Lutron Connected Bulb remote

1 x Cree Connected Light bulb

1 x Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket

1 x Lutron Claro Wall Plate

I leave the light permanently "on", and removed the chain. The bulb is controlled by the remote, which i then put on the wall outside the storage closet so it looks just like a normal light switch for the room.

All up, about $50, no wiring needed, looks like it is meant to be there, and best thing, if you end up expanding your Home Automation with a hub, the remote talks to Wink (although Wink are having trouble with the cree connected bulb lately. The remote also works with GE link bulbs, but you need a Wink hub for that to work.

I got a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12727/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473194366&sr=8-2&keywords=ge+zwave+switch

they seem to come highly recommended and I know at least one person personally that has installed a number of them.

The switch itself looks normal except that the toggle points straght out (so it looks like it's stuck inbetween on and off. Basically it's operation is push up for on and push down for off. GE also makes a dimmer version and a 3 way add on switch.

There are quite a few to choose from. Below are two I use, but you find a lot more on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Wall-Switch-Required-Single/dp/B06Y5G7XPJ/ref=sr_1_5?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1511056280&sr=1-5&keywords=idevices&dpID=41mQiJ8aAOL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/LUTRON-PD-6WCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511056299&sr=8-1-spons&ppw=fresh&keywords=lutron%2Bcaseta%2Bdimmer&th=1

That's not going to be rated for the weather and probably not for the power requirements for your application

You'll want something like this, if your transformer draws 40 amps or less https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/

Thank you so much for all the information! Is this one the right Smartthings? It seems wayyy less expensive than the other ones you listed.

Well it's not much: https://smile.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6WCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=lutron+caseta+dimmer&qid=1574102028&sr=8-4

Like the other poster said... try ebay. There was a deal at Home Depot for a while that you got more off if you bought three as well.

Here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-45631-Z-Wave-Wireless-Controller/dp/B003OUWABU


Folks seem to rave about the HomeSeerer switches as they support multi-taps for scenes.

The Logitech Harmony remote and hub are back down to $70. It was this price last week.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ5RYI4?psc=1

The only difference between this version and the newer one is the added buttons on the remote to control lights/switches. The hubs themselves are completely identical once you update it via the app. I own gen1 and it works with Alexa and Smart Home stuff.

This would be the gen2 combo:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3RFC4G/ref=s9_acsd_zgift_hd_bw_bk1AT_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_r=H2VQCVPXM33HSH46B9K9&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=d13f4b4c-2e35-55d8-921b-7be2528345c3&pf_rd_i=10967581

I think you could if you used IFTTT integration with Google Assistant and a Harmony Companion.
https://ifttt.com/google_assistant
https://amzn.com/B00N3RFC4G

The ELK 9200 can be used with a WiFi receptacle (or any other controllable receptacle); However the Intermatic CA3750 requires that you have a z-wave controller. If you do have a z-wave controller, here are two other choices:

• GE z-wave smart switch for large appliances (240V/40A)
  
• Aeon Labs z-wave heavy duty appliance switch (240V/40A)

You could wire up your own with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=235289RK3A9A8V126PZ2

Pricey though...

Something like this may work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0

Nope, you can keep the regular one. Like this micro switch

what about something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526997816&sr=8-3&keywords=ge+z+wave+fan+controller

But there is! You just need this and this. The pressure mat is just two wires that connect to the terminals in the door sensor. I'm running ST and the default DH works fine, but I switched to a custom for a better visual aspect. It basically reverses the open/close and reports as Empty and Stepped On instead. Not sure why the mat is so much right now. When I bought mine a year ago they were only $23.

I have to say that they do work very we. Initially I got one for the dog, but after annoyance set in I picked up another and put them outside under my "welcome" mats. Sensor is inside. Now I get a notification any time someone comes to my door, whether they knock or not.

Here is what the mats look like with the custom DH.

Related products on Amazon actually showed me exactly what I remember seeing before also, here's the link!


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01G7OD1F8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=5TEPJ8EECGC1HTAF6VNP&pd_rd_wg=Tp7vt&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=33lB4&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=2fe93901-cf5a-11e8-b413-df24a88cfed6

Last question I swear .... Which one of these is better. I don't mind the price difference but one seems available everywhere (cheaper one) and the other I can only seem to find from that one place...

One

Two

The Caseta switch will not control dimming of smart bulbs. It will only control dimming of normal bulbs screwed into lights it switches. Another option is the lamp dimmer which plugs into an outlet and then you plug the lamp into it. Again it will only control a normal bulb. If you’re smart bulbs are zigbee. Lutron makes a wireless pico remote called the connected bulb remote that can be mounted to the wall. That may work for you


Remote:
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9uobAb02YR3KA

Wall bracket:
Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5vobAbMH0D9B0

Edited with link

Yeah the hue hub will only control hue lights. You can get a SmartThings hub (on sale for $50 right now ) and also control your hue lights through it (either with or without the hue hub).

GE makes a 40-amp z-wave switch/contactor that could work as well https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0

Thanks. I found this one but it appears you still need a hub of some sort...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLAXFQA/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

It’s this device, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hyk1BbSPGZBWT and it uses the eWeLink app to configure.

I want to be able to, for example, grant access to my in-laws so they can let themselves in, but without having them signed in to my Alexa account.

This is more of an Alexa or IFTTT question, as this same question could apply to my Lutron controllers, ecobee, etc...

>You need to find a smart switch that does NOT require a neutral wire. I don't know exactly which ones don't, but I know they're out there.

This one will work.

Updating my own post because I think I figured out a way.

They make garage door universal receivers (intended for driveway gates), which are basically N.O. relays that work with garage door openers. Example I can then connect that relay to a Z-Wave switch module, such as this, and that will allow the garage door relays to communicate via Z-wave with my home automation system. I haven't tried it yet, but seems feasible.

I live in the US, its available on amazon:

Newest version

http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/

I have this one

http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA02203-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B003MWQ30E/

You can just get the hub and use your smartphone as a physical remote when you want one:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Smartphone-Entertainment-Automation/dp/B00N3RFC4Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480471744&sr=8-1&keywords=harmony+logitech

Or you can get the hub with the most basic physical remote (this is the one I own):

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Companion-Control-Entertainment/dp/B00N3RFC4G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480471744&sr=8-2&keywords=harmony+logitech

Yes they are, and that's the problem. The way this switch/receptacle is wired up, I can't separate the outlets and have only one be controlled by the switch unless I want to replace the wiring between the switch and outlet. That's what I was trying to avoid.

What about something like this conroller with the receptacle I posted in the OP?