Best products from r/homesecurity

welcome to the rabbit hole. what's your budget, man?

i'm a commercial fire and security PM, after being in the field for 18 years.

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so, first thing to understand as that all these smart and HA integrated cameras offer really low resolution for a really high device price.

i just checked, and the ring floodlight is 1080p / 2MP, and $250 https://shop.ring.com/products/floodlight-cam

meanwhile you can get a hikvision 4MP camera for $135 https://www.amazon.com/Hikvision-DS-2CD2542FWD-Waterproof-Firmware-Upgradeable/dp/B074N3NYMP/

so, why the price difference? you're trading pure resolution and surveillance performance for convenience.

for many users, the convenience is well worth it. a higher resolution video that is less than dead simple to use is worthless to them.

my only point is, please don't mistake fancy-pants interface features for fancy-pants video quality.

you'll be able to build a better performing system for less money, if you're willing to learn the interface.

the other issue with ring cameras is you need to pay $3/mo per device for the system.

so if you wanted 4 ring flood lights, plus a door bell, you're looking at $1250 for equip, and $15/mo for as long as you want the cams to work.

$1250 for 5x 1080p cams, plus monthly service fee.

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you can get an 8 camera 8MP system from Lorex for the same price.

https://www.lorextechnology.com/4k-ip-camera-system/hd-nvr-with-super-hd-4mp-security-cameras-/4KHDIP88MW-1-p

$1250 for 8x 8MP cams and local recording on DVR, no monthly fee.

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just to illustrate the difference in equipment you get with these HA based systems VS a more traditional CCTV system.

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now to some of your questions.

1. POE is a convenient method of wiring. it lets you use IP cameras which have more granular control over their settings. it does not inherently improve video quality. many IP video cameras have the option to plug in a local microSD card for storage, which could eliminate the need for a stand alone recorder.
   
2. mount your cameras out of reach, but also low as possible. a wide camera lens (2.8mm for example, VS 4mm) will give you broad coverage. if you stick your cameras high up you'll have less chance of recognizing faces, because you'll be looking at the tops of people's heads. a 10' mount height (typical for low eves) is more than sufficient for a wide FOV.
   
3. there are plenty of google or other HA options to add smart relays to flood lights. go ask the /r/homeautomation folks. they love it.
   
4. if you have an spare computer, you can run up to 8 cameras on Milestone for free. Milestone is the best VMS i've used. i don't think their free license gives you any bells and whistles for a phone app. in which case BI may be your best bet.
   
5. most CCTV vendor (Lorex, Hikvision, etc) have their own phone apps that can give you whatever alerts you want. they just won't be delivered via the HA app that you want to use for other HA functions.
   
6. as far as brands, i use Hikvision for my mid-price commercial customers, i have an EC that swears by Lorex. Axis is the best if you have money to burn, they're not made in China either.
   
7. desiring privacy, and using any smart Home Assistant are mutually exclusive goals. they all pipe everything back home for analysis. any video going to their cloud services will be no different. https://www.npr.org/2019/07/31/746878763/how-tech-companies-track-your-every-move-and-put-your-data-up-for-sale

This is a scary situation. I would recommend involving law enforcement to the extent that you can, if you can do any more than you already have.

Besides that, first priority is perimeter hardening. Cameras may provide some deterrent but won’t protect you if someone comes for you. I know it’s a rental but maybe you could convince the landlord that these are upgrades done at your own expense. Or just don’t tell. Reinforced door jamb

Door Armor MAX - Complete Door Reinforcement Set For Jamb, Frame, Strike Plate - DIY Home Door Security - Aged Bronze https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9J2FDbK66084S

Upgrade to steel door or similar if your door is not strong.

Add security film to the windows

BDF S4MC Window Film Security and Safety Clear 4 Mil (24in X 13ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRLI2PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_192FDbNYNR641

Next, I would also add a security system with door/window sensors that sets off a siren when triggered. There are many, Ring is a popular DIY currently

Ring Alarm 5 Piece Kit - Home Security System with optional 24/7 Professional Monitoring - No long-term contracts - Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7Q6CHB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rg3FDbYQSMX46

I would recommend paying for professional monitoring at least for a couple months so that it calls law enforcement for you

Next sleep with a pepper spray of your choice beside your bed. I like this one

SABRE Red Pepper Gel - Police Strength - Family, Home & Property Defense Gel with Wall Mount Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002368VJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Rp3FDbPZRWD5X

AFTER you have done these things, yes add a camera or two. Might provide some deterrent, might help you go after them if they do property damage. Wyze cams are cheap and decent. Will need an outdoor housing if installing outdoors.

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Person Detection, Works with Alexa & the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076H3SRXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3l3FDb2MGD3RM

Good luck, be safe

I don't have any specific insight on that particular cam system, but if you can swing it budget wise I would recommend looking in to an IP camera system. It will cost a little more up front but it will give you more options for upgrading down the line.

With an IP system you can typically mix and match cameras and recorders and as long as you have a recorder with POE (power over Ethernet) you only have to run one wire to each camera as opposed to the power and video wire for the system linked( yes I'm aware that it is contained in one wire but they are still two separate things to plug in). Additionally any IP camera will work with the network wire that you run. And the cameras will usually work with most IP recorders. That is not always the case for these kit systems which sometimes require you use their recorder for the cameras to work at all.

With IP cameras you don't necessarily have to run every wire back to the recorder. You can run all camera wires to a central location where you install a network switch and only need to run one wire back to the recorder. This is good if you ever want to move the recorder in the future. You don't need to rerun all the lines, just the one from the switch to the recorder.

If you can afford to, I definitely think that an IP system would be better with your plans to upgrade as you go. It gives you a lot more flexibility and will help you in the process of upgrading. You can look into Amcrest Recorders that seem to be pretty decently priced and shop around for decently priced IP cameras with good reviews.

Personally I have 4 Honeywell H4W4PER3 cameras, a BV-Tech 9 Port POE switch (to provide power and network to cameras), and am running recorder software (Milestone xProtect Essential+) which is free for up to 8 cameras and has crazy amounts of integrations and extra features (it is designed for Enterprise camera systems)

If you have any questions feel free to PM me

Depending on which state you're in, I'd say go through a Honeywell retailer and pick up a wireless Lyric system to handle the door/window contacts, glass break sensor, siren, and Yale electronic lock. You can put your indoor cameras on the Honeywell app as well.

I've had a positive experience with Honeywell since the wireless set-up process is simple, and the retailer's customer support should help you out should you have any tech issues or need guidance with the app. Makes it real easy to teach family members to use the apps, even people who are really bad with computers. Plus, whenever you move, it's no big deal. Just toss everything back in the box and install it in the next place.

With monitoring, your retailer or security system supplier might have someone they work with. Main thing to look for is that they're UL-listed and meet all the industry standards. Find out if they protect locations like schools and government buildings, too. That's always a good sign. I don't have any specific monitoring companies I can plug, unfortunately.

My only issue with Honeywell is their new wireless outdoor cameras are untested, so until I get my hands on one and put it through it's paces, I'm not going to recommend it.

I prefer wired exterior lights myself, but if you can also get battery-powered like this one on Amazon for cheap. With lights, there's really no need to get fancy unless you've got a lot of area to cover and you plan on being there on a more permanent basis.

For outdoor cameras you can get something like Amcrest's outdoor option. Decent camera, ticks all the boxes, not too expensive. Put your cameras on BlueIris or iSpy.

Hopefully that gives you a good starting point. Since your home is small, you probably don't need many cameras so that'll help mitigate some costs.

It's tough finding the balance between a cheap security system and a reliable one, but I think the added peace of mind makes it a worthy investment.

There are three kinds of PoE.

1. "Passive" PoE. Essentially you put the DC adapter for the unit near your switch, and the cable acts like a long DC extension cord. Potentially dangerous, not recommended, but VERY cheap and if you only need to go a few feet it's probably ok. https://www.amazon.com/iCreatin-Passive-Injector-Splitter-Connector/dp/B00NRHNPUA
   
   
2. "Regulated" PoE. This is basically 'passive PoE', but instead uses a higher voltage (typically 24v) on the injector side, and then some kind of regular on the receiving side to ensure that there is not a voltage drop for long distance runs.
   
   
3. "Active" PoE. This system, which is standardized as 802.3af (as well as others) uses communication between the injector and receiver, so that when you plug a non-PoE device in, no power is sent over the wire. This makes it much safer. This is the best option, but also the most expensive. https://amzn.com/B004UBUB7C
   
   If you only have one or two PoE devices, then individual injectors works fine. If you're going to do a big camera setup with 4+ cameras, then you're better off with a PoE switch or a 'midspan' (which is just a poe injector for multiple devices). I highly recommend you stick with 802.3af stuff (aka 'real' PoE).

I didn't go with LED lights because when I read owner reviews they were only so-so. I ended up going with Heath Zenith Model # HZ-5318-BZ lights from Home Depot and RAB Model STL360H lights from a local lighting dealer. Both Heath Zenith and RAB say these models are not designed to be used with LED bulbs because the LED bulbs will cause the motion sensors to malfunction, i.e. lights blinking off and on, etc. The Heath Zenith's don't have as much range to their motion sensor as the RAB's, but they still work very well. However, the RAB's have a 10 year warranty, while the Heath Zenith's only have a 2 year warranty. The RAB's also are much more expensive. If you buy RAB lights then don't buy them from Amazon because RAB won't honor the 10 year warranty because the sellers on Amazon are not authorized dealers. RAB also makes LED motion sensor lights, but their best motion sensor light STL360H is not designed to be used with LED bulbs. When I called customer service at both Heath Zenith and RAB to ask a few question before purchasing their lights, both companies were helpful. The other thing to consider is how high you want to mount the lights on your house. The RAB's recommended mounting at 10 ft. while the Heath Zenith's recommended mounting at 8 ft. The higher mounting height of the RAB's I believe is due to their more powerful motion sensors which gives them a greater range.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Heath-Zenith-240-Degree-Bronze-Motion-Activated-Outdoor-Flood-Light-HZ-5318-BZ/303625386

https://www.amazon.com/RAB-Lighting-STL360H-Precision-Detection/dp/B000W3YI6W/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=RAB+STL360H&qid=1565297233&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I installed a bunch of these around my property over 2 years ago, including several that don't get any direct sunlight, and they're still working well for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012ZPKNFE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These obviously wont compare to a wired flood light, but they do a great job in areas that are super dark at night. We had also put some up in an alley behind my wife's old house, which didn't get any direct sun due to large trees, and they worked well there too.

Overall, I'm really impressed with the long term quality and performance, especially given the low price. I bought them half-expecting to have to replace them after a year, but it has been more than twice that time and they're still working well.

I did the Vista 20P option with wired 6160 keypad. Programming was easy enough - especially if you use the work book that's part of the installation guide to plan out your system before you go pressing keys. Love the EVL4 and am considering paying for their monitoring service. The EyesOn app works with my Apple watch too - which was an unexpected bonus. I'm 6 weeks out from the installation and am very happy with it. I replaced a Vista 15 panel with wired sensors with the 20p that I got off of amazon.ca for $70 Canadian! I was able to keep all of my sensors - essentially plug and play!

If you can get AC power to the lights, there's always the Ring Floodlight Camera. Comes with a 1-year warranty and "Lifetime Theft Protection", but best features require a subscription.

Given that you have holes drilled, consider going with PoE cameras hardwired to a PoE NVR instead of WiFi. Generally more reliable, and easier to reset if they do have an issue, usually higher quality and won't fight for bandwidth with the rest of your wireless devices.

With a budget of +$100/camera, I would consider the low end of the Axis cameras (these are all PoE, not WiFi), or if you must have WiFi and are okay with made-in-China, consider TriVision. Both Axis and Trivison offer ONVIF conformant cameras, and most models can save to a local SD card or write to storage in-house or on a cloud service.

NP, and yeah, it takes a hot second for me to find tools and parts that are reliable, which I can expect consistent behavior out of. These are them. I've used them A LOT.

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The one tool that I forgot to mention earlier is:

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Fluke Networks PRO3000F60-KIT Tone and Probe - Tone Generator with Noise Filtering Probe
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CL5NCMJ/

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So, let's say that you had these parts in hand tonight. Here's what you'd do:

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1. Test the wire for voltage before you even touch it. This is not only for your safety, but really, also for the safety of the tester since it can't be plugged into PoE Ethernet lines (that's what the warnings say.)
   
2. Once you confirm the line is unpowered, then use this tone and probe to trace it. Let's use your porch as an example. Connect the tone generator to some of the stripped ethernet or a tip that you've crimped on with the tools that I previously mentioned (I use a keystone female <-> female so that I can plug it in)
   
3. In your server closet, using the probe, you'll find the line that's beeping. The closer that you get to it, the louder that it's going to be.
   
4. Crimp jack on that line.
   
5. Remove the toner and then place the tester on one end and it's reciprocal part on the other (I usually put the small unpowered tip on the outside, and keep the tester on the inside)
   
6. Repeat this for the other 10,000 Ethernet lines in your house. ;-)
   
   ​
   
   Bonus points if you can recruit significant other, children, or whomever to sit on the opposite end so that they can swap between the tone generator and the tester. Depending on where I'm at, it's either my wife or my buddy that does this with me. We just sit on Facetime and knock it down fairly quickly, unless I'm up on a ladder or in the attic, then I'm talking to them on my Apple watch.

Direct Burial the only drawback is price its very very expensive if that is not a concern the only other issue is the grease that they put inside just have a few paper towels on hand. I am personally a fan of the pull through RJ45 crimps https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000FI9VU2&pd_rd_r=F3DK2M04KMB56TMZA4K2&pd_rd_w=tcXRA&pd_rd_wg=ggomX&psc=1&refRID=F3DK2M04KMB56TMZA4K2&dpID=41jjLiPUwkL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

but you need a special tool to cut it off clean. https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524701919&sr=8-3&keywords=ez+rj45&dpID=41xnvb1PL8L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I especially like these as you can double check that you have not messed up as you pull them through just do a double check on your colour's

in Canada we tend to use T568a but i believe a lot of places use T568b personal preference, http://www.cables-solutions.com/difference-between-straight-through-and-crossover-cable.html

I have never found any conduit that gets buried to be able to stop water ingress but any electrical supply store should be able to set you up with whatever you need but direct burial should be used as well especially if your in a place like Canada with a large temperature range.

So it worked...

I followed the basic concepts described here: http://www.malos-ojos.com/?p=823

But I used a slightly different EEPROM reader: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1EU9LG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1EU9LG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a Mac Book Pro so I had to find a driver for the reader. For that I used ch341eeprom found here: https://github.com/command-tab/ch341eeprom

I downloaded the ch341eeprom package from github link above and unzipped the contents, then from MacOS Terminal...

>mac-os-prompt$ cd ch341eeprom-master/
>
>mac-os-prompt$ brew install libusb
>
>mac-os-prompt$ brew link --overwrite libusb
>
>mac-os-prompt$ ./ch341eeprom
>
>ch341eeprom - an i2c EEPROM programming tool for the WCH CH341a IC
>
>Version 0.5 copyright (c) 2011 asbokid ballymunboy@gmail.com
>
>This program comes with absolutely no warranty; This is free software,
>
>and you are welcome to redistribute it under certain conditions:
>
>GNU GPL v3 License: http://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html
>
>Usage:
>
>-h, --help display this text
>
>-v, --verbose verbose output
>
>-d, --debug debug output
>
>-s, --size size of EEPROM {24c01|24c02|24c04|24c08|24c16|24c32|24c64|24c128|24c256|24c512|24c1024}
>
>-p, --speed i2c speed (low|fast|high) if different than standard which is default
>
>-e, --erase erase EEPROM (fill with 0xff)
>
>-w, --write <filename> write EEPROM with image from filename
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>-r, --read <filename> read EEPROM and save image to filename
>
>mac-os-prompt$ ./ch341eeprom -v -s 24c256 -r cpi_rom.bin

(I used 24c256 b/c this is the type of EEPROM chip used for the Concord 4 https://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/24LC256 this wrote the contents from the chip to a file named cpi_rom.bin)

>Searching USB buses for WCH CH341a i2c EEPROM programmer [1a86:5512]
>
>Found [1a86:5512] as device [26] on USB bus [20]
>
>Opened device [1a86:5512]
>
>libusb: info [darwin_claim_interface] no interface found; setting configuration: 1
>
>Claimed device interface []
>
>Device reported its revision [4.03]
>
>Configured USB device with vendor ID: 1a86 product ID: 5512
>
>Set i2c bus speed to [100kHz]
>
>Read [32768] bytes from [24c256] EEPROM
>
>Wrote [32768] bytes to file [cpi_rom.bin]
>
>Closed USB device

Then I downloaded the following Hex Editor: http://www.suavetech.com/0xed/

I opened the cpi_rom.bin file using the 0xed Hex Editor app. Then I read the values for the following offsets.

System Master Code: 0x03E2 - 0x03E3

Installer Code: 0x03E5 - 0x03E6

Dealer Code: 0x16F2 - 0x16F3

Hope this helps others.

You can do this inside your budget, but you'll have to do some work. If you're within 300 feet of each house, you can trench ethernet cable to connect each house to home base. If over 300 feet, would need to include a repeater. Then it'd be simple to put more than one cam at each place using something like a 4 port switch at the end of the cable to feed each house's cams. You would also need to get up in the attics and run power to your camera locations. That's a drag, but when it's done it's done.

I just installed a ZOSI camera system in our home and it's working perfectly so far. There are a variety of system configuration options, but here's an 8-cam 2TB system under $400. One important detail/advantage - this is a wireless system with option of being wired. So cams at your home base you would not need to run ethernet. Just have to run cable to the other places you want to monitor as they'd be outside your home base wifi range. This system creates its own wifi network, so the recording does not trample your home wifi bandwidth. You then connect the system NVR to your home router via ethernet cable.

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https://www.amazon.com/ZOSI-Security-Surveillance-Weatherproof-Detection/dp/B079TPKYRN/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1543168664&sr=8-17&keywords=zosi%2Bsecurity%2Bcamera&th=1

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Well I work for a dealer so we just buy direct from the distributor, so I don't have a ton of first hand experience buying online. homesecuritystore.com is one that is often mentioned. You can even find some stuff on Amazon pretty cheap, such as this panel: https://www.amazon.com/VISTA20P-Ademco-Zone-Control-Panel/dp/B000H05W9C

Overall though, since you will likely need to buy multiple items for the system, since professional security systems don't really come as much of a kit...I would recommend you shop around for each of the items you plan to buy...as prices for each item can vary quite a lot.

Probably should be pretty easy, do they look like they can plug into something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ZOSI-Security-Capability-Surveillance-Detection/dp/B06WP6Q898/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=tvi-hd+dvr&qid=1568392390&sr=8-5

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You just need to figure out what kind of camera you have to ensure you get a compatible DVR.

                    My own **PERSONAL** recommendations<br />

My Camera being used outside---

https://www.amazon.com/Foscam-Audio-Wireless-Ultra-Camera/dp/B01F4RJV3K/





Recommended Systems---







NVR: http://www.amazon.com/Amcrest-NV1104-1080p-Network-Recorder/dp/B00X4UDCYE/



Low budget OK all in one: https://www.amazon.com/Security-Systems-Outdoor-Weatherproof-Smartphone/dp/B00HJYVJ1E

Midrange budget Decent all in one with some limitations: https://www.amazon.com/EZVIZ-Security-Weatherproof-Cameras-Channel/dp/B015121KH8/







Recommended Good Cost Minded Cameras---









Budget “Indoor” PTZ Dome Camera (with MIC+SOUND) 2MP ~$98.60 https://www.amazon.com/Amcrest-ProHD-Wireless-Security-Camera/dp/B0145OQXCK/ (black also available)

Top End “Indoor” PTZ Dome Camera (with MIC+SOUND) 4MP ~$199.99 https://www.amazon.com/Foscam-Ultra-HD-Wireless-Security-Superior/dp/B01F4RJV3K (black also available)

“Indoor” PTZ Dome Camera [some limitations - Chinese] (with MIC+SOUND) 4MP ~$111.56 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Chinese-Firmware-DS-2DC2402IW-D3-4MP-IP-Camera-Mini-PTZ-Camera-With-IR-30M-Support-ONVIF/32623907200.html



Budget Indoor/Outdoor PTZ Dome Camera (no audio?) 2MP ~$188.00 https://www.amazon.com/ANRAN-Onvif-Vision-Network-Camera/dp/B00LXVU9NI

Top End Indoor/Outdoor PTZ Dome Camera (SOUND Only) 4MP ~$249.99 https://reolink.com/shop/rlc423-4mp-4x-optical-zoom-ptz-poe-ip-camera/





Budget & Top End Indoor/Outdoor Fixed Dome Camera (SOUND Only) 4MP ~$73.99 https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-RLC-420-2560x1440P-Outdoor-Detection/dp/B0147XLVIU/





Budget Indoor/Outdoor Fixed Bullet Camera (no audio?) 4MP ~$74.99 https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-RLC-410-Megapixel-Monitoring-Waterproof/dp/B010LH48F4 (wireless option available for $25 more)

Top End Indoor/Outdoor Fixed Bullet Camera (no audio?) 5MP ~$129.00 https://www.amazon.com/GW-Security-Megapixel-Resolution-Varifocal/dp/B01ATUAOTM

Indoor/Outdoor Fixed Bullet Cam Coming soon (with MIC+SOUND) 4MP ~? http://www.foscam.com/FI9901EP.html





Terms---

PTZ = Camera moves/adjusts with a motor and remotely,
Fixed = Camera must be moved/adjusted manually,
MIC = Talk to bystanders,
SOUND = Hear bystanders,
Budget = Decent camera, great price,
Top End = Great camera, reasonably priced but more than budget

Dont use a repeater.

You can get a network cable that has a wire attached to it for doing a overhead connection (like the wire attached to coax they use to bring cable in). The network version is a little tricky to find but it definitely exists, that is one option.

Point to point wireless is another option. Its a directional wired to wireless to wired bridge. They work good and are reliable I've installed one before, something like this https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-PBE-M5-300-2-Pack-PowerBeam-Outdoor/dp/B00UZ048R6/ref=asc_df_B00UZ048R6

If you're planning to throw away your old cameras anyway, you could try these instructions and see if they happen to work for you.

You can easily use your existing CAT5 to power any regular non-PoE camera by attaching a PoE injector at one end to power the cable, and a PoE spitter at the other end to recover the DC power and supply it to a regular non-PoE camera. A kit like this one should do the job.

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You might also be able to find some cameras that will allow you to power via PoE while simultaneously allowing you to connect via WiFi. (More commonly it's either/or.) In that case you'll need just the PoE injector, and plug the cable directly into the camera on the camera side. I know several Amcrest models such as this one will stay connected on both PoE and wifi when the PoE connector is plugged in, so I assume that you could buy a PoE camera, use the CAT5 to power it, and use WiFi for network. (Disclaimer -- I haven't specifically tested using the PoE for power only rather than power+network ... I just think it's likely that it will work.)

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(Edit: Oops ... The Amcrest camera I linked to is not a PoE camera, but it does stay connected simultaneously to wired and WiFi networks. So, I might be wrong in thinking you can find a PoE camera that will also support WiFi while using the PoE jack for power -- but you should definitely be able to buy a camera like the one I linked to and power it by using the inject+splitter route.)

I’m a big fan of these: https://www.amazon.com/RAB-Lighting-STL360H-Precision-Detection/dp/B000W3YI6W/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rab+stealth+360&qid=1555126929&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Only thing I don’t like is having to adjust certain modes by flipping the power switch several times in a sequence and having to scurry up a ladder to check the indicator lights to make sure it set it properly, but once you figure it out it’s easy. Other than that they’re high quality and very reliable with detecting larger moving objects and ignoring stuff like leaves, snow, rain or swaying branches,

I'm using these in some applications. https://www.amazon.com/Wyze-Indoor-Wireless-Camera-Vision/dp/B076H3SRXG

I'm using one in an outdoor application though it's well protected in a proprietary case and under an eve. It's been up for a few months and so far, so good.

These cameras meet all the specs you listed with the exception of a dedicated outdoor. As I mentioned they can be adapted with a little ingenuity.

Something like this for the POE Injector should work.

Then something comparable to this would work for the battery backup. The higher the VA the longer the runtime.