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As long as this doesn't go in the oven (or get hotter than 180ºF / 80ºC) of course it can be glued, and with fine, strong (but still slightly visible) results.

u/GondorUr is probably right, it would be easiest to return it and that would have the best results, but...

u/pobroin has the right attitude, considering their appreciation of kintsugi, and so do you, I presume, since you are asking about repairing, rather than replacing.

u/BcookieOmonsterB is right, that cyanoacrylate (Super Glue, Krazy Glue, etc.) works well with ceramics, but cyanoacrylate works best on nonporous surfaces, and when the surfaces fit really well with the least possible gap. On ceramics, especially if not fired to the point of being vitreous, there's often a few grains that will get dislodged in the glue, while fitting the pieces back together, that will stand in the way of ever getting a truly close fit. So...


As this job is a nice clean break, and a simple two pieces. It's the perfect job for a two-part epoxy, which is plenty strong and will fill any small gaps with virtually no loss of strength, unlike cyanoactrylate.

Your best option to repair (rather than replace) is a two-part clear epoxy. Since you're asking about this, I assume you haven't worked with glues much, and are unfamiliar with the process, and may be a bit slower than someone more practiced. Different epoxies have different working or handling times, and since you don't want to rush it, look for longer than 5-minute epoxy (this one gives you a full 30 minutes, but that's a lot longer than you should need for this simple job - look for a 10-minute epoxy).

• Dry fit the two pieces together to make sure they do fit well, and dust off any loose grit or chips that remain on the broken surface. Don't clean the surfaces with any water, soap, or cleaning agents, just a clean dry toothbrush or similar.
  
  
• Lay down some newspaper or something else disposable to protect your table/counter/work-surface (a sheet of parchment paper works really well here, as drips are less likely to stick the paper to your lid). There will almost certainly be drips.
  
  
• Get some tape and have it close to hand for clamping the glued pieces together, later. As the lid has a nice smooth glazed surface,almost any tape will do, but something with just a little bit of stretch, like electrician's tape or duct tape would be best, as you can pull the tape a little tightly across the mend, and the elasticity of the tape will give just a little of a slow steady tug, to help to squeeze out excess glue,and snug the two halves together.
  
  
• Squeeze out equal amounts of resin and hardener (or whatever ratio the instructions recommend, usually it is 1:1, and the double-syringe tubes, like the one I linked to above, help you keep the amounts fairly equal) onto a disposable surface, such as a clean tuna can lid, a piece of parchment paper, the bottom of a soda can,whatever,and stir them together really well with a popsicle stick, a nail, a cuticle stick, or some other disposable applicator. Stir well, making sure scrape all around the edges of the puddle, to incorporate all of the two components, so it is fully and evenly mixed. Also, make sure you mix up more glue than you will need, because you want to do the gluing all in one go, especially if you are using one of the quicker 5-minute epoxies.
  
  
• Place the lid halves on your protected work surface. Using your mixer/applicator, smear a line of epoxy all along the centerline of one of the broken edges, about a third as thick as the edge. Doesn't matter if you go thicker, but don't go much thinner, and do make it a continuous bead, all along, from end to end.
  
  
• Slide your two pieces together, carefully lining them up as accurately as possible. Press them together firmly , keeping your hands down at the edge for the most part, perpendicular to the crack (crack runs north to south, hands at west and east).
  
  
• Take a strip of your tape and stretch it across the glueline, from one piece to the other, down there just above the rim, pulling the tape a bit tight to give it some stretch. Do the same for the other end of the crack, again, just above the rim. (NOTE: you start here at the rim, rather than in the middle, up near the knob/handle, because downward pressure up there at the center, could press the center down, rocking the two outer edged of the two halves up and away from each other. Out at the rim, downward pressure has almost no torque to tip the halves.) Now add about three other strips of tape, spread out along the glueline. (Edit: additional strips, again, go west to east, from one half to the other, across the glue line, not along or in line with the glueline, with a bit of stretch/tension).
  
  
• Flip it over and and place a couple more strips of tape on the underside.
  
  
• Before the glue has cured (hardened), using a clean dry cloth or paper towel and acetone, mineral spirits or isopropyl alcohol, gently wipe up any excess epoxy that has squeezed out the crack onto the surface.
  
  
• Leave your work undisturbed, to cure, for the recommended amount of time, however long it is, 5, 10, 30 minutes, before handling it any further, and allow a full 24 hours, before putting the lid to work
  
  
• After curing, remove the tape, and use a sharp knife or razor blade to carefully and thoroughly scrape off any excess cured glue there.
  
  
• Wash and proudly put into service.
  
  Edit: Yay! Silver! Thanks for the alms, secret Samaritan.
  
  Edit 2: Clarification added to taping procedure

There was a really good post by /u/LieutenantJesus about this a few months ago. Here it is... the second method has worked REALLY well for me.

"I've shaved my mashers and bang/taint/funhole for years and years, so let me contribute.

So let's assume you've never blessed yourself with a shorn scrotum: There are two methods you can use to rid yourself of hair. I'll go over both, since I've done both extensively.

---

>Shaving:

USE A NEW RAZOR FOR THIS. Old razors deteriorate and the blades get bent/dulled. You don't want dull blades tugging at hairs and nicking you up down there.

1. Trim up. Get a body-hair trimmer like a Norelco Bodygroom or just a regular hair-trimmer and take care most of the bush. Go with the shortest guard it'll allow-- Not using a guard is a good way to get a few nicks, not something you want down in your dangly bits. You want to get yourself short enough where a razor won't get caught and cut you up in masses of hair.
   
   
2. Get in the shower, and get that bitch nice and hot. You don't want to try shaving dry, hell no. Wash your hair, brush your teeth, do all of your regular shower things to give your pubes a bit to get wet and soften up. This'll make it so much easier, trust me.
   
   
3. Start shaving WITH the grain. Make a few passes. Don't press down on the razor, just let it do its job. You won't get it all in one go, and that's fine.
   
   
4. Go across the grain. If your hair looks like this: |||||, shave in this ---> direction, or this <--- direction. The best would be doing a pass of each.
   
   
5. Go against the grain. Now, at this point, if you feel smooth enough, feel free to stop. Going against the grain may cause irritation and ingrown hairs, so know your body and know how your hair responds. The biggest lesson is DO NOT PRESS DOWN ON THE RAZOR. You will only irritate your skin and nick yourself. Be patient and take your damn time.
   
   
6. Finish the job. If you shave your dick, you must also shave your balls, otherwise you might as well just not even do it. It may be scary the first time taking a razor to your jumblies, but it's simple and quite safe, if you're careful (For the record, I've never nicked myself shaving down below, yet I can butcher my face when I'm not careful). Just take the sack in one hand and GENTLY pull it to stretch the skin, and run the razor lightly over it, front and back, starting the stroke from the underside of your dick and dragging down towards your feet. Don't bother too much with grain direction here, it won't matter that much.
   
   
7. The Gooch/Ass/Asshole: You should also run over these areas with a hair trimmer/bodygroom before you go at it with a razor. The secret here is the same as the rest of your sensitive bits: Go slow, don't press down with the razor, and relax. The taint is tricky, but you can navigate it by feel pretty well. The ass/asshole is simple, except for the hole. If you're shaving your ass, you aren't gonna leave the hole hairy, so when you shave it, shave starting from the pucker and stroke AWAY. Do not shave ACROSS the sphincter, else you're just asking for a rough ride. Remember: DO NOT PUSH DOWN ON THE RAZOR.
   
   For your balls, you might want to make a run over them later when you're dry. Helps get those stray hairs.
   
   >Post-Shave Care:
   
   Once you get out, pat-dry the areas you've shaved. If you get razor burn, get some Vitamin E cream or moisturizer and spread a little down there. This will help the skin heal, and probably cool things off. I like to pat a little Gold Bond down there, because if I'm going to be fancy enough to shave my balls, I'm going to powder them like an English Nobleman.
   
   Itching: This is normal if this is your first time shaving/it's been a while since you've shaved. You shouldn't itch as bad or even at all the second time around, so just tough it out.
   
   Farts: You'd better be ready, because you can no longer sneak these fuckers. The bare skin will amplify your ass air to trumpet-like levels. Be prepared to use your flesh-valve a lot more efficiently after this.
   
   Sweat: You might feel like your ass/gooch is a lot sweatier than usual. It's not, you just lack friction from your now-missing hair down there. Invest in some boxer-briefs if it bothers you. You get used to this as well.
   
   ---
   >Depilatory Creams
   
   Alright, so now that we've covered shaving, let's discuss using chemical hair removers. I wouldn't use Nair on your private parts, you will burn yourself. You have to find something for sensitive skin (Which I'm sure Nair has now). I am a fan of Magic Shave. It's a powder you mix with water, then slather all over your crotch, wait a while, then rub off gently with a washcloth. You can get if off Amazon, or find it at most any drugstore in the shaving/hair removal aisle. Takes the hair right off and leaves you SMOOTH AS FUCK. It's messier and takes a little more time, but it's worth it in the end.
   
   They do sell it as a pre-mixed cream, but ever time I've used it it's been very lackluster, even after leaving it on for several minutes past the recommended time.
   
   
8. Test it somewhere like your inner thigh. Mix a small bit, put it on for the prescribed amount of time (7 or so minutes, in my case), and wash it off. Wait a day to see if there are any adverse effects. Skipping this step is not recommended, seeing as a small allergic reaction on your thigh is a lot easier to handle than one all over your fucking dick.
   
   
9. Mix. I use a mason jar, put in equal parts of the power and water, and shake it up. The I use something like a rubber spatula to scoop it out and slather it from dick (Try to limit getting any on the glans. It won't kill you, but you don't generally want depilatory cream on sensitive membranes like that) to asshole. The more you use, the better. Be sure to place a towel under you/do this in the tub to catch any that might drip.
   
   
10. Wait. Set a timer and just stand around a bit. Brush your teeth. Floss. I don't care, just wait out the 5-7 minutes.
    
    
11. Hop in the shower. Lukewarm water is the best for this stuff, I'd avoid going really hot though. Grab a washcloth and slowly rub the stuff off in a circular motion while under the stream. You might have to give some hairs a gentle tug to get them out, but it shouldn't take you any real effort. You may miss spots, and that's okay, you can get them next time. You should probably have a set washcloth just for this, because Magic Shave does have a tendency to stain.
    
    
12. Pat dry. If you left it on a little too long, it might feel somewhat like razor burn. Use some Vitamin E/Moisturizing cream on it and dial the time back a little next time.
    
    
    
    All in all, I much prefer using Magic Shave to rid myself of hair, because it leaves me MUCH smoother and isn't as expensive as wearing razor cartridges out. Enjoy shaving, and know that your girlfriend/boyfriend will REALLY appreciate it."

You could get some 2-ton epoxy and carefully apply it around the hinges with a small disposable brush (like the ones that come with kid's watercolor paint sets). This stuff cures to be hard as a rock, clear, it adheres nicely to metal, and should provide the support you need. Don't get 5 minute epoxy because that isn't as strong and turns yellow.

Just be sure to carefully measure out equal parts resin and hardener and THOROUGHLY mix them. I mean mix them for like a full 2 minutes. Otherwise the epoxy may not cure properly and might come out tacky.

The epoxy starts to set up in about 30 minutes after you have mixed it, so you will have enough time to apply it to the hinges. After you apply it however, you will want to keep turning the glasses over in your hands otherwise gravity will cause the epoxy to sag. 2-ton epoxy is frequently used as a protective clear coat on custom fishing lures, and lure builders like myself make "turners" like this to prevent sagging. Obviously you're not going to want to build one but you can accomplish the same thing by slowly rotating the glasses around by hand for a minimum of 30 minutes, an hour would be better. After that is done just let it cure however long it says on the package.

I really liked "drawing with your artists brain" https://www.amazon.com/dp/1581808119/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mWJhzb3MWYY09

And "drawing comics the marvel way" https://www.amazon.com/dp/0671530771/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kXJhzbAC00TH6


Both different but great for building your skill fast and fun.

Irwin Industrial Tools 53535 Spiral Screw Extractor Set, 5Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YOBF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vq8ADbX1XMN94

Ez outs would probably work. Just go slow and keep it straight against the screw head. They are extremely hard but also brittle at the same time. You could break off the EZ out. Your local hardware store should have plenty of options and you might be able to just buy one small EZ out that will fit that screw.

I have one of these, this one is pretty cheap and has good reviews, works really well, and takes a little time to make it perfect

Hey guys thanks for all the comments, this is my first successfully contribute post! :D ! below are the parts list with direct amazon links. Any laptop power supply will work fine, just try to find one with multiple connectors so you can get the right input the first time.

Ill be doing the underside of the cabinets next. Should i make a seperate post or just add to this one?

.

Tools: Scissors, super/wood glue, some heavy things.

Optional: wire cutters, duct tape, flat head screwdriver, saw, hammer, utility knife/razor, ladder/bucket.

Tips: Test on green, separate power supply, gloves for super glue, pre-bend daisy links before connecting.

LED: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCHRKD6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

daisy links: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00977FHG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not "Out of the box" but if you bought it already, no fret. What you have on your record player looks like a plain jane bone stock 5mm barrel jack connector. Now, the problem you are looking at with an adapter like that is the fact that the female part of the cable that comes with it has 2 pins in it, and it's only meant for putting those male connector ends that come with it on, None of them are a female barrel connector. Your record player is odd, most DC appliances have either a built in power supply or an adapter with a male end and a female jack on the device. Yours is a male end on a pigtail coming out of the appliance.

​

So you will need that adapter, and you will have to be careful to set up the end correctly. Follow the directions. If you look at the glyph below the voltage specification you will see this device is "Center Pin Negative", which means negative DC is the center pin of the jack, and the outer jacket is positive. Those tips fit on that adapter 2 ways, one is center negative and one is center positive. Center positive on your device might kill it, so make sure you do that right.

​

You also need something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts-Coupler-Female-Barrel-Connector/dp/B00QZDSR3I

​

it's a 2 sided female barrel connector, and double teaming one of these is the only way your adapter with a male end and your record player with a male end are getting together, and without finding one of the original adapters or I don't know if soldering multimeters shrink tubing and all that jazz are your cup of tea it's the best solution you have.

​

If you can solder and use a multimeter, you can plug that adapter into the wall measure the voltage and find the positive and negative leads after lopping off the end and stripping them. Then strip a small segment of the wire on your record player a little ways down the jacket and figure out which one is connected to the outer barrel of the connector using a continuity tester. Once you know what wires are what solder it together and just permanently attach the adapter to the record player. You could even crack the thing open and go right to the circuit board too if you are so inclined. But if you were into electronics at that level I doubt you'd be here asking.

​

I have used "Shoulder Dolly Moving Straps" to lift/move heavy items. You will need one more person to help you. It allows using your core strength.

This link is just an example of the product, there are many various brands that make them. It is surprisingly effective. https://www.amazon.com/Shoulder-Dolly-Moving-Straps-Efficiently/dp/B00022749Q

https://www.amazon.com/Takagi-T-KJr2-Indoor-Tankless-Natural/dp/B0057X27OC

I'm not near there but I'd bet someone on here is. This is the Takagi tankless, I've installed several of these, they are super easy. $532 for the tankless + about $100 for the valves and pex.

herer you go bud

http://www.amazon.de/Maydaygames-Prot%C3%A8ge-Cartes-70x110mm-Perdues/dp/B004O5SUFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=mayday+games+70+X+110+MM

Also, acid free paper won't be an issue if you have these sleeved. the sleeves are acid and PVC free too. so just make a tuck box from whatever you want I guess. but if you want acid free, try a framing store, they may have backing paper you can buy.

Yeah this looks like a good all-in-one solution OP. Otherwise looks like these two items, the amazon basics Bluetooth receiver and a lepai 2020A amp would be another, slightly cheaper, option, but then needs two power cords.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020A-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Bluetooth-4-0-Audio-Receiver/dp/B00I59VBH4


Edit: I also like the idea some others have had of using the chromecast audio + amp, then it would be independent and could run with the phone going away.

Also, be careful and wear gloves with that insulation.

Of course, millimetres, edited.

Thanks for the advice. 2 Problems: I'm from Europe and I didn't find these Mayday sleeves on Amazon europe. 2nd: How do I make sure the paper is acid free? I guess I got to order one specifically for that purpose...?

Edit: Okay I found 87x112....better than nothing I'd say.... http://www.amazon.de/Mayday-Oversized-Dungeon-Sleeves-Munchkin/dp/B00CXWTH8Y/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1409696329&sr=8-8&keywords=mayday+games+sleeves


Edit: And I found the 70x110...at some strange language: http://www.amazon.de/Maydaygames-Prot%C3%A8ge-Cartes-70x110mm-Perdues/dp/B004O5SUFO/ref=sr_1_47?s=toys&ie=UTF8&qid=1409696941&sr=1-47&keywords=Mayday+Games

You cannot prevent pet accidental peeing, Fortunately you can clean it up almost entirely with very little damage.

First thing you will need is a small portable black light, For identifying where the spots are.

Second you will need an enzyme cleaner to remove the urine completely. http://www.amazon.com/Pet-Odor-Eliminator-Urine-Cleaner/dp/B00CKFL93K

Third you will need something to get the enzyme cleaner into the carpet and padding underneath, http://www.amazon.com/Marinade-Injector-Syringe-Cooking-Poultry/dp/B008Y9GS7S

In a darkened room a black light will cause the urine spot to glow, Fill the injector with enzyme cleaner and then inject into the carpet and pad, The enzyme will eat the urine completely and then die off.

Good luck and love your pets.

This is pretty creative solution to your problem. If you dont have an iPad around, you might be interested in investing in one of these: http://amzn.com/B003LHJSY8

We had a similar problem at a frame shop I worked at. A customer’s photo was water damaged and stuck to the glass. We used this liquid with good success. Soaked it in a shallow tray for 24 hours and it released from the glass. Unstick is some great stuff that we always kept on hand.

Get a set of these. They make cleaning stuff up super fast and easy.


https://www.amazon.com/Scrubbing-Attachment-Cleaning-Bathrooms-DrillStuff/dp/B0727NJZNV/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4RHKY7XVG58BZF8CFZ1K

Contrary to what other posters have said, this is not a security screw. It's a one-way screw and there isn't a tool specifically designed to remove it. You'll need to either cut it out, drill it and remove it with a screw removal tool like this or if you're lucky you could try hitting them with some PB Blast and using a flathead and a lot of elbow grease.

Also, if you have a small Vice Grip you can try locking down on the head and using that to loosten it up to the point where you can remove it by hand.

You could use something like this to add bluetooth capabilities to the receiver.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I59VBH4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_7IrKwb8H3K59B

Before messing with anything though just do some reading about home audio and how to hook things up. I don't mean to be insulting but if you're not even sure how to plug in the speakers it will be worth it for you. Most things are color coded and it's all fairly logical once you get a bit of knowledge. You'll be happy you learned.

She's not the original artist and the text is lifted as well from the book these images were taken from. It's "How to Draw Comic the Marvel Way"

It's kinda funny I recognize the boob drawings.

This tool is (supposedly) made specifically for this kind of thing!

I say supposedly because I've never tried it myself so I don't know how effective it is.

Here's a demo video advertisement about how it works.

If you do buy it and use it please let us know how well it functions. I'm kinda interested myself!

This...

http://www.amazon.com/MAGIC-Gold-SHAVE-GOLD-4-5oz/dp/B0048ZIFA0

I've used Magic Gold Powder a number of times and it works amazing. No razor burn. No getting yer balls caught in the trimmer. This stuff is awesome.

Mix it up. Apply it all over. Wait 7 or 8 minutes and then wipe it off with a facecloth. Baby smooth.

I love this tool for anything that requires scrubbing :

Drillbrush Bathroom Surfaces Tub, Shower, Tile and Grout All Purpose Power Scrubber Cleaning Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLZ43B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1TmvDbDK76FNS

I carry this tool with me all the time.
It’s one of the only as seen on tv things that is actually genius.

Cheap and easy I promise it will work.


https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Stripped-HassleFree-Hardness-63-65hrc/dp/B07GZ17QD9/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=grab+it+drill&qid=1570637412&sr=8-5

Conair Fabric Defuzzer - Shaver; Battery Operated; White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008I25368/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0jxtDb411QP62

These things are great for all sorts of things.

I prefer Rocco & Roxie. It has never failed me and is way more effective, imo: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HjKKDbZYH3BRH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLZ43B/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01MRLZ43B&pd_rd_w=h272w&pf_rd_p=c83c55b0-5d97-454a-a592-a891098a9709&pd_rd_wg=kKRQH&pf_rd_r=92EFJ7D5RWBHEAXFPEZ5&pd_rd_r=baf703b6-0ee3-44e6-9290-164d12a33f01&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExT1JCRVdOV1NYSDhPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODQ5NzY5Mlc2UkI3RTk5Q05VRiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDMxMjIzMk4yM0lRTVNIVDNONiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

This will save you a lot of effort..

Pretty sure he is not talking about torx, but the keyed lug nuts that require an adapter to turn... like this.

Easy out kit https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-53535-Extractor/dp/B00004YOBF/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=easy+out+extractor+set&qid=1567354753&s=gateway&sprefix=easy+out&sr=8-6