Best products from r/intelnuc

Answering two posts in one (novel...sorry this grew so long but at least you know I really took time to think and share).

About your question re: using Linux and Plex Media Player. No, I don’t actually do it that way. I use the NUC/Linux Mint OS to run my Plex Media Server (not Plex Media Player - I’m sure you know they are two different programs). With Plex being “serving” my content so that it’s available anytime/anywhere, I then use a streaming media box to run the Plex app (or client) which then accesses those files. This is a MUCH easier UI/layout because it was designed from the ground up to be used with a TV and remote (where a computer interface isn’t). With the dropping price of such media boxes (even 4K/HDR capable w/ the latest Dolby decoding) we find it highly preferable and more fluid. The other great thing is that multiple Plex clients (streaming media boxes/smartphones/tablets, etc) can access that content at one time.

So, answering the second post about setting up the system for your parents and how you were thinking of using the NUC:
Hmm. I didn’t know that’s what you were looking for. I thought that the NUC was going to be running your Plex Server. What is currently running your Plex Server? If you‘re wanting a plug-n-play type setup for your parents, I’m not sure that how you described using the NUC is going to be it (whether it’s Windows, Linux, or whatever).

If you really want your Plex server on the same device as your Plex player, maybe looking into something like a Mac Mini (one of the older versions would work fine from eBay, doesn’t have to be the newest). I’ve not run Plex server/Plex Media Player on a Mac myself but I’ve heard it might work well. It’s an alternative to Windows that you could check out. This isn’t actually what I’d do if I were setting it up for my family (or non-techie friends) but there certainly isn’t anything wrong with it. Everyone has different needs.

Given what you’ve said, if it were me, I’d try a few different things before going that direction. (These aren’t in any particular order...).

1. You could try a different type of streaming media box. For parents (well or anyone, really) I’d highly recommend a Roku box. It’s dead easy which belies all the advanced tech underneath which supports all the latest 4K/HDR/7.1 surround sound (as long as you get one of the higher end boxes/sticks) and they are reasonably priced. With the constantly improving Roku channel w/free (ad supported) TV/news/movies, it’s great. It also has YouTube which a lot of people enjoy having the full TV interface (we use it daily). You could buy from someplace with a decent return policy and if it doesn’t improve things, you could move on to other options whether you keep it and try other things or return it). I’d look at either the Streaming Stick+ or the Ultra. Both have sales from time to time.
   Streaming Stick+: https://www.roku.com/products/streaming-stick-plus
   Ultra: https://www.roku.com/products/roku-ultra
   
   
2. Upgrade your Plex Server box. I don’t know what you have that’s running your Plex server but this is another option. If you currently have a computer running it, you might be able to use a couple of things from that with a NUC kit. Here’s what I mean. We had a probably 8 year old laptop running our Plex server till last year. We paid $498 for a top notch NUC w/ the latest Core i7 (as of Sept last year - 8i7BEH kit) including Iris graphics. I took the SSD out of the laptop and put it in the NUC when it arrived. I also had to buy an 8gb memory stick (they are half now what they were then, so you’re looking at $37 give or take). Took maybe 10-15 minutes and I was able to reuse the 2.5 ‘ SSD. Our NUC has been running all evening for the last 6+ hours playing HD video (either HEVC/x265 10bit or H.264) and I was wondering with your statement about heat, how ours was doing. I went over and felt it and it was cool - not just not warm, but actually cool to the touch. I would suggest, if you’re happy w/ the i5 (which should be fine, especially since the newer chips all support HEVC decoding natively), consider the 8i7BEH barebones kit from SimplyNUC. I’m not affiliated w/ them in any way but I heard great things about them before I purchased last year and they were great. I highly recommend and I’ve actually bought from them. Currently, they have that kit for $418. If you have any DDR4 memory in your current machine, you could reuse it (but if it’s from 2013, it’s likely DDR3) and if you have an SSD in it (either standard 2.5” or an M.2 form factor) you could move it over. If not, you could pickup a Crucial 500gb M.2 SSD for $64 (you can save $15 if you want to go w/ 250gb but I think the 500gb is a worth the $15 extra) and an 8GB stick of Patriot Viper Steel Memory (some of the highest rated that I’ve found) or the Patriot Viper Performance. The NUC comes w/ everything else built in (WiFI AC, Bluetooth 5, Gigabit Ethernet, HDMI 2.0a w/4K/60hz, 5 USB 3.1 ports (4 USB-A, one USB-C Thunderbolt 3), 7.1 surround sound, consumer IR receiver, VESA mounting kit, power cord, and more. Literally, the only two things you need to get this going are the SSD and memory. I only mention this because I’d never purchased a barebones system before and wasn’t sure if the power cord and all were included - and the are. Even the VESA mount is included (for wall/TV mounting). A USB flash drive (8gb or so) will help to be able to install the OS whether Win or Linux. Definitely get the tall/high kit (this model number) as it will support standard 2.5” SSD or HDD. This means you could have the M.2 SSD above and later on, add another couple of terabytes of storage via a 2.5” HDD, which is a lot of versatility in tiny footprint. I have the 2.5” running my OS but may get an M.2 at some point (if I didn’t already have the SSD from the laptop, I would for sure have done the M.2, esp w/the price decreases of late). This would give you a brand new Intel NUC box for around $522 (give or take) with a great warranty (most AmEx, Citi/Costco, and other similar cards will add 2 more years to the Intel 3 year for a total of 5 years, w/o any extra charge). This sets you up with a lot of possibilities.
   
   NUC Kit: https://simplynuc.com/8i5beh-shop/
   NUC 8i5BEH Detailed Product Brochure: https://simplynuc.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/SimplyNUCProductBrief-NUC8i5BEH.pdf
   SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-250GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V/
   Memory: https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-2400MHz-SODIMM-Memory-Module/dp/B07QLPPHG7/
   https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Performance-PC4-19200-2400MHZ-PV48G240C5S/dp/B01KBKHK56/
   
   
3. You could use Linux Mint/Plex Server to give a rock solid server. You could try the Apple TV and see if this solves the issue.
   
   
4. You could try the Roku with the NUC and still be a lot cheaper than many of the Newegg options you mentioned looking at (for $800+).
   
   
5. If none of these solve the issues, you could install Windows and have them use it w/Plex Media Player. The specs say that it supports IR remotes.
   
   I honestly think that some mix of the NUC w/a streaming box will be the easiest for your parents. I’ve done a LOT of tech support and setups for my in-laws all the way into their 80s and lots of other non-techie people. Believe me, you want simple (to avoid those phone call right as you’ve started your own movie because they can’t get something figured out!). Nothing will be as simple as a streaming media box w/ a rock solid Plex server. If you don’t like Roku for some reason, you could consider Amazon’s FireTV, or Nvidia Shield. Nvidia Shield is the best of the Android TV boxes and many love it for a Plex client. I think the UI is little more complex and less friendly than Roku and for your needs, I don’t see much benefit given than Roku supports HDR/4K UHD/7.1 surround, etc. FireTV is generally a good value because they continue to push their Amazon content /ads first. If you have Prime, it can be a good option but Roku is much more content agnostic and they have every streaming app there is (Amazon Prime, Hulu, Netflix, YouTube, PBS, CBSNews, ABCNews, Bloomberg, AcornTV, BritBox, the free Roku channel, and literally hundreds/thousands more). I think they offer more free TV than any (because CBS and ABC news channels are totally free news streaming all the time, same with many others from cooking, tech, news, YouTube, etc). If they have cable too (we don’t any more) you can also use the cable login channels. We have all the boxes I mentioned above (except for the Apple TV, which I’d still like to try sometime) and Roku is our favorite.
   
   I know this is a lot but I hope it helps. Depending on how soon you want to purchase, there may be a similar 9th Gen barebones kit released relatively soon. I don’t know what pricing that might have but if it’s worth it to you, you could do a little research. I think the 8th gen listed above came out between mid-Sept and Nov last year. But it’s a good deal, even if you just want to go with it. I hope in all this you can figure out something that will work. I’ve you have more questions about any of this, let me know and I’ll try to help. :)

I own a few of the NUC8i5's and use it for pro audio work and a tiny bit of video work.

The machine is fast, quiet, and efficient. 16 gigs of memory may be fine (that's what I'm using), 32 may be helpful in Premier as Steve mentioned. Consider a Samsung 970 EVO m.2 drive; the 1TB is $149 on Amazon today...that's quite a deal. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=MZ-V7E1T0BW&qid=1574095226&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-1

The 970 EVO Plus (even faster) is $199 today for a TB.

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And 32 Gigs of memory is currently $125 (Crucial 2400 MT/s)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019FRCV9G/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I'm producing anything substantial video wise, I go to another machine. But for light video, the NUC will work. And the i7 you're looking at will perform slightly better than the i5 I'm using.

All that said, this tiny PC space may be getting even more exciting if AMD gets into it as has been rumored. They have superior graphics rendering in many cases, and their latest laptop chips have been shown to outperform the Intel counterparts. It'll be interesting to see the 10th gen intel chips in a NUC soon.

I love the NUC platform. I've built 25+ of them and have been please along the way.

I did some more research, and it could be a memory compatibility problem after all. Amazon review text:

> My first NUC6i5SYH build used this memory module without a problem :). My second and third, however, have been plagued with "Hardware memory issues" as reported by the Linux OS that runs on top of them. With this in mind, i cracked open all the boxes to find that one of these things was not like the other. The good build had a part number of CT16G4SFD8213.16FA1, while the bad builds had a part number of CT16G4SFD8213.M16FB. Clearly the NUC does not play well with the latter.

One of the "critical reviews" here

But that review was from May 10th of last year, so you'd have hoped the BIOS updates would have resolved it since then. EDIT: the NUC6i5syh is being mentioned in positive reviews as well, but it's tough to tell exactly which model number those people are using; it could be that the M16FB model uses a different voltage or something.

To answer your other questions:

3) I thankfully didn't have to change the NUC power settings for my Linux machine, but I know that's something that was suggested to others on the official Intel NUC forum, which I see you've posted on last night! Good call, some of the people there are really helpful.

4) Yeah I realize it's a weird solution, but it feels like I have to force it to "wake up" and become responsive to log in sometimes. That's why I was thinking maybe it's a hardware power-save mode getting in the way of the OS and preventing the keyboard/mouse interrupts from being received.

I doubt this last piece will offer any help to you, but I did have a major freezing problem on the NUC when using dual monitors. I had to upgrade the Linux kernel to get it fixed, but that seems like an entirely different issue than yours.

The last thing I'm thinking might be worth trying: if the freezing happens very reliably after a certain amount of time, try running the machine without VMWare/Virtualbox running at all (if possible). If it still freezes, at least we know it's not some weird virtualization or resource allocation problem with those VMs. But if the freezing isn't consistent, this might be a pain in the ass to test.

Good luck man. I rather like my NUC, and I hope you can find a way to make yours work.

>s; check the model spec to make sure that it's M.2 NVMe/SATA depending on what you wanted, but SSD incompatibility basically doesn't exist.

Thanks for such a detailed answer.


Glad to know that the Ram frequency above 2400 does not matter. Some of the commentators have suggested a 2400MHZ 2*8gb module such as https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Memory-2400MHz-SODIMM-CMSX16GX4M2A2400C16/dp/B019MRBKYG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=13K426EVH0N13&keywords=sodimm+ddr4&qid=1563490549&refinements=p_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A677429011&rnid=673240011&s=gateway&sprefix=sodimm+%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-3
I'm confused as to why https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Performance-2666MHz-Unbuffered/dp/B01BMMVNL4/ref=sr_1_5?crid=13K426EVH0N13&keywords=sodimm+ddr4&qid=1563490549&refinements=p_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A677429011&rnid=673240011&s=gateway&sprefix=sodimm+%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-5 is cheaper even though its 2666. Is it because of the CAS latency?


Regarding media, that's right. I have a large NAS that stores all my media. So my main drive is only for my OS and whatever steam games I'm currently playing (and I probably get to play like for a few hours a week, so I dont need many games on disk). Hence capacity isnt an issue. Do AAA games require 1-2 TB? I assume 500 GB should keep me covered for the most part right? What do you think about https://slickdeals.net/f/13228237-1tb-intel-660p-3d-nand-nvme-m-2-2280-ssd-85-ac-newegg?attrsrc=Test%3AHideExpiredSearch%3AHide%20Expired&src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo1. The comments talk about QLC and so on, but I know little about SSDs to know why that matters.


thanks :)

I use Spotify with my NUC8i5 and this remote.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CL3ZXGO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works great! Not exactly your solution, but perhaps you can use some aspects of it. I just keep Spotify up and ready to play and use the remote to start and stop. Could also use any phone to select which music and start with Spotify Connect.

Best to you,

Jim

1 - yes, good choice for what you are doing. Probably more power than you need.

2 - You should be able to use almost any USB-C to HDMI dongle. Something like http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-HDMI-Adapter/dp/B01M3PTUV6

3 - Don't worry about memory unless you plan to run multiple VMs or do video editing.

4 - A standard laptop SATA drive will fit. Some of the thicker ones might not.

5 - Some VMs have issues with custom hardware like the tablet.

Much better value than the Mac Mini:

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-BOXNUC8i3BEH1-Canyon-Components-Other/dp/B07GX4X4PW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540934195&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=8th+gen+i3+nuc

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Pop in 1x8GB RAM with room for 8GB more possibly later and a Samsung 860 or 970 EVO depending on how fast you want it to be and your budget. The 7th Gen i3 is also fine. MacOS is not worth the premium. Linux Mint is excellent.

Update: Bought this cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's USB-C to DP, and it works flawlessly, so far. As it's being used in a Thunderbolt 3 port, it supports higher resolutions at higher refresh rates, so my 2560x1440 @60Hz is fine.

It shouldn't have been necessary, and it's more expensive than any old HDMI cable, but I'm so relieved that it's sorted.

I'll re-check the HDMI to HDMI situation every now and then, after a big kernel or BIOS update, especially as I might want to free up the TB3 port in the future.

Is this the i7 version of it? Is the i7 version worth it? I don't mind spending an extra 100$ or around 500$-700$ total as long as it can be used as a normal desktop. For comparison, I have a 750ti and an i5-4670. As long as it is better than the current setup, I don't mind spending a bit more. Does it also support dual monitor?

Edit: woops, I replied before seeing your edit. So is the i7 not worth it for the price? Or do you mean that it is not a necessary upgraded if not needed?

Today, I installed an 8th Gen NUC in an Akasa Turing case (bought on Amazon). The process took about an hour. Somehow it shocked me at how quiet it is now. It makes the same amount of noise powered on as powered off. I knew that would be true, however, it still surprised me that it powers on dead quiet.

I saw at least one person reporting that the NUCi7 runs hot in the case. I decided to get a NUCi3 to avoid any issues with it being too hot. (The NUCi3 has plenty of computing power for my needs.)

Some notes if you want to do it too:

• The paper instructions that come with the case skip the needed step of transferring the microphone array. However, the Akasa video includes that step (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQcrydSYrtE). The video goes quickly. Youtube keyboard shortcuts (https://support.google.com/youtube/answer/7631406?hl=en) helped navigate that.
  
• The video left me wondering how to get the NUC out of the original case. I found a disassembly video of a 7th Gen NUC for fan replacement that was close enough.
  
• You can use a paper towel and rubbing alcohol to remove the old thermal grease. Remove the thermal pads before installing new thermal grease (the case includes a tube of thermal grease).
  
• If you want wifi, you will need new antennas and connector cables. Different connectors exist. The NUC uses a M.2(NGFF) U.FL to RP-SMA Female connector cable. I bought the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QKF18KM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00, and it works fine. If you have an SSD card installed, you will need to remove that to get at the antenna connectors.
  
• An 8mm wrench helps get the antennas mounted securely. However, a crescent wrench would work too.
  
  The CPU is hovering around 32°C with just a browser running.

Amazing listing: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-BOXNUC8i7BEH1-Canyon-Components-Other/dp/B07GX69JQP/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540160019&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=nuc8i7beh&dpPl=1&dpID=31B3TRtWvbL&ref=plSrch

Bought mine from Newegg about a month ago.

I am using this nvme drive ad it is amazing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGF54XR/ 1 year warranty or 5 year warranty if you register

We cannot speak to that product you linked, unless somebody here has the product and can confirm.

Otherwise.....

I can confirm the devices I own, Bean Canyon and Hades Canyon, both support ThunderBolt-3 over USB-c to external display tha features the DisplayPort connector. This works well, and I'm using this specific cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/

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The full size DisplayPort or the Mini DisplayPort really doesn't matter very much, I'm just showing you what I use. Obviously if your external display uses mini-DP, then go with able that provides that.

Sure!

Manufacturers link: https://www.acinfinity.com/component-usb-fans/multifan-s2-quiet-usb-cooling-blower-120mm/

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Control-Receiver/dp/B012CL2V3I

It's better to replace them. You cannot replace them with paste because there's an indent in the plate, so paste alone would not be sufficient.

I used these ones: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00ZJT31QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If they are going to shoot pictures / videos, they might need an external drive or a NAS. However for regular desktop use, including browsing and office work a single SSD should be more than enough.

(Remember, Surface Pro and many similar devices come with 128GB - 512GB storage range).

Recently 1TB nvme devices have become much cheaper, sometimes going under $100. That could be the minimum you'd want to put on the device.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07LGF54XR/ [currently $120, but can setup a deal alert, last one was on Jul 01, 2019)

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-NUC-Mainstream-Kit-NUC8i5BEK/dp/B07GX4X4PW

Would this 32GB (2x16GB) work for example?

How about this one? It still saves a bunch but still gives me lots of SSD storage (double what I have now). https://smile.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG

I am not using a splitter., I am using a USB C to Display port Cable, an HDMI 2.0 Cable, and a Mini Display Port to Display Port Cable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7RJQPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SSD0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1