(Part 2) Best products from r/klr650

What year is your KLR?

Does the original key fit both the ignition lock and the gas cap?

For a Gen 1 I am sure, and I'm pretty sure for a Gen 2, you don't need a special blank. The key to my 95 was different from my 06, IIRC. Here's an amazon listing showing the right and left handed key blanks which are otherwise identical.

BTW, the only bike key that I ever failed to find a generic key blank for was the 09 EX250.

From the KLR forum :

Can I use a different key blank for the ignition?
If you don't want to shell out the big bucks for a Kawasaki factory key blank, here are some alternatives that should work. Of the keys listed below, the Silca KW14 and KW14R are the only truly correct ones. It would probably be best to take the whole list to your key shop, and let them pick the one that will work the best. NOTE: The KLR comes with both right- and left-hand keys (the direction of the offset in the cross-section). So, not every blank will work.

SILCA KW14, KW14R Curtis YM-58 (Yamaha?) Ford 5-cut primary blank
ILCO KA15 X106 ILCO YH38 X77 ILCO X120 YH46
Taylor X90, X91 Curtis SU-9 (Suzuki)

The best cover I've used is the only cover I've used. Bought 4 different ones. One for the wife's bike and 2 for my KLR (one for my Versys).

Here's the link

The XXL size fit even with my huge booty top box on my KLR. I'd size one down to the XL if you have no luggage. The XL size fits my Versys 650 and my wifes F700GS perfectly.

It's super thick and waterproof. Has what I'll call "heat-resistant" material on the lower edge near the exhaust/engine area. Comes with bungee hooks to secure the cover under the bike. It also has a ventilated cutout on the side.

My first one I had on my bike year round and the sun got to it. Eventually it just broke down and ripped once it got so thin and faded. If it's not shaded I'd probably treat it every month or so to get the most out of it. As it stands the first one lasted me well over a year.

Things I would consider mandatory equipment on the bike: everything you need to change a tire (don't forget cotter pins), spare tubes (they're really hard to find, as it turns out, when you're on the road, and not everything can be patched) and a small patch kit, and a bottle of oil. Check your oil every time you gas up, and your tire pressure every morning. Fortunately the tire change kit can largely be divvied up between all of you.

Research the climates and weather of the places you're riding through. This, for me, was absolutely, entirely crucial. You don't want to be riding for hours while shivering, hugging the tank as close as possible to keep warm. And the "hand on the headers" trick is tough to do on KLRs (at least, I think it is) because the engine is so buried.

I'll echo those that have said "less is more" when it comes to equipment. Focus on things with multiple uses: for example, an all-stainless water bottle that you can heat directly on a fire. Packing up the campsite can take a decent amount of time (though I guess it's better if you're not going solo; more hands to spread the work around) so I got pretty good at the little tricks (ex: you can put water directly in the oatmeal packet and then the only thing you have to clean is a spoon). You'd be amazed how important food and water strategy can be.

The seat is uncomfortable (your ass will hate you). Your back might not be too happy either, especially if you're riding with a backpack.

Don't forget a knife. Tarps are awesome -- I had great weather and ended up sleeping under the stars in a blanket/tarp burrito more nights than not. For that purpose I specifically recommend something like this, which is a ruggedized emergency blanket type dealio with one side reflective and one side olive. Again, knowing weather patterns ahead of time is crucial for stuff like this.

This is the best mod to my bike. It's cheap, easy to install and it looks great. Handlebar clock from Amazon for about $10

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RN822OO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3M Diamond Grade conspicuity tape. Stuff is amazing. It can be seen a mile away. It's kind of thick so it only applies nicely to flat surfaces. Adhesive on back is top notch. just clean with rubbing alcohol before applying.

1. I commute, but my commute is short. The seat is not very comfortable though.
   
   
2. No idea. I wish they would go FI as well.
   
   
3. There is a KLR tail bag from Kawasaki. I have it and am happy with it.
   
   
4. You are a big guy. The KLR doesn't like going fast (at least not for long). I love the KLR, but you might be happier on a bike with a larger, more modern engine. There are roads around where I live that I won't take my KLR because it can't keep up. For normal (< 65 mph) roads, it does well.

Honestly I just used this kit. Great instructions. Comes with the drill bits necessary to access the air/fuel screw and a bit to port out the slide for better throttle response. FWIW I run a FMF powerbomb with a pro-circuit muffler and it does great.


2008-18 Kawasaki KLR650 KLR 650 6 Sigma Custom Carburetor Carb Stage 1-7 Jet Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006QZFBS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G87WBbXQY2NAB

I did this on my Bandit 1250. I didn't pull the oil pan (4-5 hours of work to do so: have to remove radiator, full exhaust, lot of other pieces). I rented a Time Sert kit in M14x1.25 (Bandit's drain plug size) for $25 + refundable deposit + cost of sleeves (I bought 2). Time Sert may be really expensive, but it is a REALLY REALLY REALLY good tool. I fixed my drain plug in about 15 minutes. Drilled out the hole, rethreaded it per instructions, ran a gallon of rotella through it, put red locktite on the insert, and it has been solid through 2 oil changes so far. I was beyond impressed with Time Sert.

Not sure if they offer an M12x1.5 (KLR) size, but worth a look. on Amazon it's $95, but I would called them and ask if they have an M12x1.5 kit available. aircooled.net link

Alternatively, there are Helicoil and Perma-Coil thread repair kits.

3rd option is to drill it out to a size larger and tap it out, get a new drain plug. Either to M13 x 1.5 or M14 x 1.5. Found this kit on Amazon, you'll have to source your own drill bit, naturally.

Call Eagle Mike, see if he has any repair kits or recommendations.

Check with a local auto shop if they have a time sert in m12 x 1.5 kit and if they'd let you use it. You'll need to get your own sleeve inserts. Autozone may have a rental for you.

Do the redneck thing, put a shitload of high temp silicone on the drain plug, sell the bike to some poor sap. No, don't do that.

Online it looks like a cheap $35 battery. Good enough in a pinch, shit for long term.

Junk...

But yes jumping from a car is perfectly fine, so long as the car is off. The bike will draw the amps that it needs from the car when you try to start the bike.

If you start the car, then you shove those amps down your bikes throat. More specifically, your stator and/or regulator/rectifier's throat.

I rode the TAT last year on my gen 1. I absolutely fell in love with this tool- https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0161-Multi-Purpose-Metric/dp/B000GTV1V2 you can use it for most trail side adjustments and it can replace a few heavier tools. I also carry a small plastic syringe measuring tool and some small tubing that i can use to activate the vacuum petcock so i can drain fuel into a bottle and put it in a buddy's bike. Have fun and watch out for mud

Here's a link to the same bolt I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8 (comes in pack of 5).

It's the same type of bolt except a bit oversize, so you can re-thread the aluminum pan -- just do it slowly and be careful on the first try, perhaps even back out a few times.

I was in the same situation and found this to work. I haven't changed the oil again yet, but I'll make a point to be extra careful re-torquing next time.

One piece of advice I found was to use high temp sealant (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1A) on the bolt at every oil change, as insurance against any lose threading. But just judging form the feel of bolt, once you rethread it seams to be a pretty tight fit; you'd have to be careless to mess it up.

Good luck.

I had similar issues with my 2016 KLR even after replacing the original battery with another lead/acid unit. I finally bit the bullet and bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SA630UI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 After a couple of longish rides the battery maintains 14 volts. Yay, Lithium Iron Phosphate! :-)

Seems like a fuel/air mixture problem. Firstly before you begin the process to reset everything to the way it is, make sure you have no air leaks between the carb and the engine and that the clamps are tight. Also check for cracks on the rubber boot that holds the carb to the intake port. Make sure you have a reasonably clean air filter installed as it will make tuning wonky without it or with a different exhaust.

1:Find your mixture screw, then tighten it all the way in until it wants to stop turning. Make sure to tighten it very gently as the needle can be damaged very easily. Then loosen it 2.5 turns.

2:Start the bike and keep it running for awhile until it warms up. You may need to hold the throttle and/or use the choke to keep it alive, but that's ok for now. When it's all the way warm, turn the choke off.

3:Adjust the big ol' screw on the side of the carb that pokes on the throttle arm until the bike idles nicely. If the engine is warm, the idle should sit nice and smooth now without needing to touch the throttle.

When the bike is cold it should start with the choke and may idle high until its warm and the choke is turned off. This is normal.

If this process did not fix the issue, I would suggest getting a carb rebuild kit and changing all of the jets and needle valves. It's cheap and is very easy to do. The jets or mixture screw may have been damaged from being over tightened or may be full of crud from old gas. While you are changing out everything, give it a good spray with carb cleaner and/or compressed air in all of the tight spots. Wear eye protection while doing so.

Is it this guy?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R6RSCV4/ref=twister_B00V5574X0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That's been on my Amazon wish list for months now, would be really useful on my bicycle too.

Late to this thread, I've found these used for a good price and they're really convenient to use if you have the room, just ride up, get off, flip over:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZHB22O/ref=psdc_404643011_t5_B00RN90EIE

Another maker, more expensive is the Bike Barn.