Best products from r/knifeclub

Okay, where to begin?

​

Sharpening a knife is actually a very simple process. The overall goal is for you to maintain an angle throughout the sharpening process while sharpening from course to fine grits (Course = smaller #s and Fine = Higher #s). Often people use cheap knives and sharpeners and learn good habits (maintaining angles) before upgrading to higher tier stones. The issue you have is the you are dealing with a premium steel knife which is much harder, holds an edge longer( needs sharpen less often) and takes more time to sharpen with a majority of sharpening materials. If you are dealing with Elmax steel I would recommend that what ever sharpener you get it should have diamond and ceramic stones as these are harder than the knife material and can cut it efficiently unless you are using some belt or grinder system. Since you are a beginner I would recommend that you use a knife sharpening system as you could have more accidents sharpening the knife free hand. Believe me it sucks when you screw up a knife edge while sharpening and you have to spend way too much time fixing your mistakes so the knife can actually cut. In short I would use a test knife in any sharpener to see how it works properly and after you are more confident use the system you choose. Also some of these might be excessive especially if you only have a few knives. Some of the higher end sharpener are what professionals use in their shop (who knows if you get good enough you can make some money).

​

1. The Lansky Diamond system ($67) is a great place to start as it has 70/120/280/600 grits but you also have to purchase the C clamp stand ($15 and you do need it as you will get tired holding the thing) and higher grit (1000) ceramic stone ($13) and 2000 grit stone ($12). Leather strops with compound if you want an absolute finish. The only complaint I would have about this system is that the stones are not of the highest quality and stop working as the diamonds fall off. The sharpening guides also are fixed and you have to use a angle measure (your iphone can use its compass app) or some math (trig) to find the position to get an accurate angle throughout the blade. There is a work around stone holder ($60 )That can use Edgepro stones and is longer (better strokes). So with everything but the strop and the 3rd party holder you are looking around $120. $200 with the upgraded stone holder.
   
2. The KME sharpener is very similar concept except that the angle guide is moveable but I must still stress that the angle needs to verified again. Shabazz also explains this in his review. It also has a nicer case. I think you still need to buy the base for this one as well. Like you said it runs around $300 with every thing.
   
3. at $350-575 there is the wicked edge . Hear great things and it will get the job done faster but it is expensive! You can get a Tormek at that price now.
   
4. If you do not want to spend a ton of time sharpening and don't mind belt grinding the Ken Onion Sharpener ($126) is great. Note: it will create a convex edge and if that is something you want great! Video
   
5. Going off the deeper end we have the Tormek T4 ($400-550 or $700 for the full size) which is essentially a wheel grinder made for edge knives and tools. Considered by many to be the best you can get
   
6. There is also the TSprof ($700) which is essentially a bigger top tier KME sharpener. Video
   
7. If you want a simple top tier diamond system DMT Course Set and Fine Set =$200 total. Note that although expensive. These can be used pretty much for decades provided that you take care of them (use diamond abrasive fluid). You can also use water stones but there are so many out there I do not know which brands and how much you could expect to spend with those.
   
   ​
   
   Note that I only mentioned the higher end sharpening systems under the assumption that money is no objection and you wanted it to sharpen you knife efficiently but I wanted for you to see what types of systems are available are certain price ranges. If not mentioned above you might need a strop and fine compound to get a mirror edge.
   
   Okay now here are some cheaper systems that are similar to some of those above but cheaper.
   
   
8. 5 gen Sharpener (ebay) ($40). This is like the KME Sharpener but cheaper and you can get 3rd party Diamond Plates set (140/400/1000) cheap ($25)
   
9. Edge Pro clone - cheaper end copy of the Edge pro. I think you can also use the diamond plates as it is around the same size.
   
10. Lulu sharpener ($90) if you can find one... it is a copy of the Wicked Edge. Looks like it also uses the Diamond plates mentioned earlier.
    
    ALSO: get a ceramic honing rod ($20). Often times knives just need honing to get back that razor sharp edge and maintaining it with a rod will prolong your edge and mean you sharpen less.
    
    ​
    
    Hopefully this has helped you somewhat and sorry it took so long to respond, it just takes time to type all of this out(2hrs! where does the time go?) and cite the products. Personally for me, knives for me a fun hobby and it tends to have a meditative effect on me when I sharpen them. I also hope that you come to enjoy sharpening your knives just as much.
    
    ​
    
    And welcome to sharpening!

Mora is coming out with two full tang knives soon, I'm not sure how soon you're wanting to purchase this knife, but if you've got time, Mora currently has a lot of really really cheap options for smaller companion knives that may not be exactly what you're looking for, but since they're like 10$ I had to say something about them, I have four and use them all more than any expensive knife I own.

The BK10 has many variations, a lot of which do come with secondary handle scales included, not sure what specifically you don't like about the scales, just thought I'd let you know.

The RD6 is a good option, I would consider the little things with this knife, Esee is supposed to be an upgrade from Ontario as its founder designed the RAT series by Ontario and left to make better knives. The Ranger series has a lot of options, and if you like all the small things about this knife (the pommel, grind, choil, thickness), I would look at smaller knives in the ranger series. I spend a lot of time using knives outside, and I always prefer a knife between 3-4". The RD6 is pretty massive, a lot of people buy an Esee 6 (similar size to the RD6) and say they can really only use it for dicking around. I have a Benchmade 162 and even that feels a little too big for me, and that's coming from a big guy. That's not to say you wouldn't be able to use it effectively, but there's a happy medium for outdoor fixed blade size, and this steps out of that medium. The RD4 is probably a much better option IF you like this design.

I came here to advise you to get an Esee instead of the ranger, but 5160 steel is a great steel and I honestly didn't know much about the ranger series. I don't know anything about their heat treat, and I do know that Esee's heat treat has a great reputation, so I would consider that if you're planning on really using the knife you purchase to it's fullest. I personally don't care for this style of knife (RAT, Ranger, Esee, Becker) because they all generally are flat grind knives with a coating (nothing wrong with flat grind its just a personal opinion), this coating is great to stop corrosion, at the cost of creating drag when working with wood. If you plan on cutting up a lot of sticks and making fires and whatnot, I would look at the Condor Bushlore, if you just want a companion knife to have with you, the RAT 3is much more cost effective than most Esee knives, and the difference is marginal. One of the smaller ka bar beckers, or the Ontario Tak 1are great options. I cannot find the RD4 on amazon, if you can find it somewhere else it is also a great choice.

I'd actually start a little lower if I were you, then work your way up. I started with a Spyderco PM2 ($125ish) and then actually went down to some more budget friendly knives. You can get some TREMENDOUS value out of a few budget blades available right now. Here's a few that I HIGHLY recommend.

Top Pick: Sanrenmu Land 910+ or 9103. I'd choose the 910+ because it's got nice grippy scales and is easier to open/close than the 9103.

Compact, Lightweight, and Classy: Kershaw Atmos. Fantastic action, well known designer, nice and compact.

Workhorse: Spyderco Tenacious. This thing is built to cut. Nice and thin blade stock with a full flat grind, cuts like nothing else. Carries really well too.

Those are three of the best started blades on the market IMO. There's a lot more value in these than in some of the other commonly recommended blades like the Ontario Rats. If you do want to spend your full $100 budget, I'd just pick up all three of these. That way you can figure out exactly what you like before committing to one expensive knife purchase. Plus, once you do, you can hold onto the budget blades for backup knives or sell them over on r/knife_swap.

I hope you find the right knife for you. Good luck!

Good breakdown from /u/Koridel - this guy's pretty much right on point, OP. I've got a Minigrip and a couple Delicas, about the same sentiment as he holds but less experience with using the BM, so less wear-related problems experienced. I don't really carry the minigrip because it's a bit too small to fit my palm/pinky securely whereas the grip on the Delica's great. I carried a Delica as an EDC for over a year, still break it into the rotation just for nostalgia - it's a great little knife.

One question - doesn't seem like funds are a huge issue, but have you looked at a Skyline? You can pick one up for ~$33 from Amazon and it's been a sleeper hit for me. There's a pretty strong following for that knife and I'd heard good things about it before, but I didn't really think much about it until I YOLO-bought one of the damascus models off BladeHQ. Handle ergos are great, the blade is a great size for how slim the knife is when folded.. eh, just something to consider if you don't want a big thump to your wallet. Only thing is that, being a flipper, it'll be a bit more noticeable while deploying if you snap it out, otherwise it'll be slightly less natural/comfortable when going with just the thumbstud than others.

Hope that helps some

Yes, I certainly do.

On the low end you have some handheld sharpeners. The Smith's model is iconic and cheap. It gives you an acceptable edge, but it's not going to be good, and once it's loaded with metal it's hard to clean. These are mostly for tackle boxes and backpacks, quick solutions. It really wouldn't do a Benchmade justice.

In the middle, you can buy a guided rod system. The Spyderco Sharpmaker is the best I've seen. Lansky makes a few like this one. These systems do a really good job on pocket knives. The Sharpmaker is a great investment if you plan on dealing with knives for any extended period of time. They can keep a knife very sharp for years. Lansky's systems are relatively inexpensive, but aren't as precise as and lack some of the features of a Sharpmaker. I think the Sharpmaker is an ideal solution.

On the high end, you're looking at sharpening stones. There are two classes, oil and water stones. Oil stones are slower, but water stones are used slightly in the course of sharpening (one might last a decade for me) and are more prone to damage. These let you do repair, produce a more customized edge, and work on a knife's geometry behind the edge, something all knives require eventually. The majority of the time you wouldn't need this level of equipment, but when they come in handy they really come in handy. I use water stones on all of my knives. For most pocket knife users it's much easier and less costly to let a professional do this sort of work and maintain the knife with a rod system. No links here; there are dozens if not hundreds of stones on the market and there's no perfect one. Starting costs are around $150.

At the super duper expensive level, you have advanced assisted sharpening systems like the Edge Pro. These things are slick, easy to use, and ridiculously effective. They should be for the cost. Stones are still more versatile and a lot of the people who use these branch out in many ways.

Lol, alright for example:

• Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.
  
  
• Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.
  
  
• Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.
  
  
• Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.
  
  
• Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.
  
  
• Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.
  
  
• Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.
  
  
• Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.
  
  
• Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.
  
  
• Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.
  
  There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...

Here's what's in my kitchen: http://i.imgur.com/CAQ3xUv.jpg

Left to right:

• Kramer/Zwilling 8" chef's knife in FC61 steel. An amazing knife, with a thin blade, excellent balance, perfectly proportioned. A bit pricey as far as production kitchen knives go, though.
  
  
• Fujitake 7.2" chef's knife in VG10 steel. Picked this up recently in Japan. It is not available anywhere in the states, which is pretty cool. Hida Tool has some Fujitakes available, but not this one. Even thinner than the Kramer, with a completely different design and feel. It cuts like a laser, and might permanently replace the Kramer for me.
  
  
• An old, inexpensive KAI bread knife. Excellent for what it does (cut bread).
  
  
• An old L'Econome paring knife. Its combination of a slightly rounded tip and thin blade make it perfect for things like prying the green sprouts out of older garlic gloves, or scraping the skins off young shallots. I use this thing a lot.
  
  The sine qua non, however, is a good sharpening setup. Without it, it's not even worth thinking about getting a kitchen knife. If I were you I'd buy this:
  
  
• Spyderco Sharpmaker
  
  
• Victorinox Fibrox
  
  
• Opinel Paring Knife
  
  Total price: $105.45. The Fibrox is a great entry level chef's knife, and it would be extremely easy to keep sharp on the Sharpmaker. The Opinel is cheap and effective as a paring knife.

Expected but icky answer: Kershaw Skyline (two words: butter knife)

Good answer: any of a million or so inexpensive CRKT flippers with IKBS, like the odd-looking but fantastic Ikoma Carajas.

Best answer that I know of currently: save $14.89 more and buy a Kizer 3404, then thank me later.

Bonus option I've-never-tried-but-will-at-some-point: a Russian Kizlyar Supreme Biker Z

The Mora carving knife is an absolute classic and works wonderfully. It's not the prettiest thing but it really works.

I do a lot of carving and frequently use:

Basically any Mora (the red, wood handled classic is a great option too)

Helle: Odel (not a traditional carver but I love using it)

Kellam: Puukko

Enzo: Trapper (a bit beefier than a usual carving knife choice but works quite well)

Bark River: Bravo EDC (again not a traditional option but I really love carving with this thing)

A small Ahti puukko

A small and medium Wood Jewel puukko


Another idea that might be fun is get him a couple of the small Lauri puukko blades and he can carve his own handle, drill a hole and epoxy it on. Just a thought. The Lauri blades are wildly affordable and the smaller thinner ones make amazing little carving knives.

You have a lot of good choices available within the $50 range. My personal two top choices for a small, inexpensive but well built folder would be the Ontario RAT 2 and the Cold Steel Tuff Lite. Both are under $30, easy to carry, and very capable. If you want more of that traditional look, go with the best Case model you can afford. Great Eastern Cutlery is really nice too for traditionals, but a bit more pricey. Another option might be an Opinel, classy and inexpensive.

If you really want a monster sized knife, sure. But I'd definitely get the carbon steel version that some others have suggested as well. It sounds like their quality isn't too bad.

However, I don't know if I'd really want to take something that huge hiking. Maybe SHTF-type hiking I suppose.

A couple of knives that I'd think would be similar priced or less (and have proven reputations) and would slightly more practically fall into the "only 1" category:

• Ka Bar Becker BK2
  
• Ka Bar Becker BK16
  
• Condor Bushlore - there are other Condor models that are great values as well, but might need a little touchup love.
  
• Morakniv - there is even one with a firesteel built into the handle
  
• ESEE 4 (this might be a tad more expensive)
  
• Ka Bar Becker BK7 or BK9 if you really want a huge knife, but I would definitely consider something smaller to piggyback on the sheath.
  
  Good luck regardless!

Well, I prefer a lighter EDC, so i'd recommend the

• Kershaw Skyline
  
  This one is a very nice EDC for most people who use a knife for lighter tasks such as box cutting, opening packages and the like. I would not recommend this for someone who tends to use their knives for "heavier duty" tasks.
  
  
• Kershaw Leek
  
  Pretty much the same recommendation criteria as the Skyline, but this knife is both spring assisted, and has a more "delicate" point.
  
  
• Spyderco Delica
  
  Probably one of the most recommended knives for someone who wants an overall solid EDC at the price point with a lot of versatility and good overall durability. I own one myself, and this one is great for EDC.
  
  
• Ontario RAT 2
  
  The Ontario knife company really hit it out of the park with the RAT series, the Ontario RAT model II is a better choice for EDC over the RAT model I, mainly because the knife is a bit smaller putting it at about 2.75" blade and less "intimidating" for someone who needs for EDC.
  
  
• ESEE Izula
  
  I really like the Izula as a fixed blade EDC knife, it's a fucking tank and you can be sure you can rely on it everywhere, but it does lose some versatility and convenience because it isn't a folder.
  
  --------------------------------------------------
  
  Please keep in mind that these are just my suggestions and reviews, if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask me anything.
  

Hello /r/knifeclub !

TL;DR: I got given a knife and it doesn't want to hold an edge, can anyone identify it / the steel. Is it worth keeping and re-profiling or is it trash?

I have googled and I can't find any information on this knife. It was given to me by my other half's mother. I took it to the sharpener and put a nice 18° per side edge on it and within less than a week it was blunted. My ceramic rod did nothing; I grabbed my loupe and looked at the edge and it looks like a god damn mountain range.

I'm not hard on my knives, my regular 8" chefs knife is the excellent but famously soft steeled Victorinox Fibrox and that lasts me a good 2 months between needing maintanace.

I have since taken it to the Worksharp because I didn't want to waste my time re-working it without gathering more information first (new edge picture is the last of the 4, you can see the new edge the Worksharp put on it). It's sharp again for now but I have no idea if it'll last.

Can anyone tell me anything about this knife? Do I need to put a steeper edge on it? the blade is stamped "Japan", I had my fingers crossed that maybe it would be a solid VG-10 blade but that doesn't seem to be the case. I'm happy to sit down and take the time to work the edge into something robust if it's worth it.

Help me /r/knifeclub, you're my only hope.

I don't know what kind of paces your pappy put that knife through, but it just goes to show that Moras will. not. die.

The biggest issue is probably the giant chunk carved out of the handle, although it kind of looks like it may have been done intentionally to improve ergonomics. How does it feel in-hand? If it feels natural or like the notch was carved intentionally, I'd just give the handle a coat of mineral oil and leave it alone. Otherwise, you could try filling it and painting over it, or you could try carving a new handle for it.

It looks like there may be a small chip about 2/3 up the blade, but that's simple to take care of. Scandi grinds are easy to work with, but it takes a long time to work out a chip with a stone. Don't worry about the blunt tip, the Mora scout doesn't even have a tip.

Looks like a bit of rust on the bolster. You could buff it out or leave it be, it probably won't cause problems.

The Ka-Bar Dozier folder is a solid choice for around 20 bucks. You can also grab some Sanrenmu 7010's for about 10 bucks each here.

If autos are your thing, I hear good things about Ganzo's offerings.

Spyderco has a value line called Byrd. I like their Cara Cara 2 and they offer quite a few variations.

My favorite knives in the value sphere are the Ontario RAT 1 (or 2, if you like 'em smaller), and the Kershaw Leek (slightly outside your price range, but they are very good knives).

Happy hunting and congratulations!

I own this set of sharpening stones: http://www.amazon.com/Smiths-TRI-6-Arkansas-TRI-HONE-Sharpening/dp/B00062BIT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421454826&sr=8-2&keywords=Sharpening+stones

They do fine for me. It takes a little bit of time to learn to freehand sharpen your knives but it's worth it. Your edge will turn out ten times better than that of a pull through sharpener. These stones are also cheaper than most sharpening systems out there. I also prefer a good freehand polished edge better than a mirrored edge on any sharpening system. It just feels better to me. I've had some really sharp mirror edges, but I've had even sharper polished edges.

This sharpening system also comes with a 23 degree angle guide. You may want your edge thinner than that, but it's a good place to start.

It's probably hit or miss. Nothing weird, since I've had varying sharpness on Spyderco and Benchmade as well, so I always figure on sharpening it anyway. A Spyderco Sharpmaker is a great investment.

This thread actually got me to buy two more Sanrenmus just now :D

Completed an order for two 7010's which are modelled after Sebenza's. Look up the reviews on Amazon for that one:

http://www.amazon.com/Sanrenmu-7010LUC-SA-Pocket-Folding-Knife/dp/B00GMMPIK2

Scores a 4.7 with 83 ratings. Which is a .1 better rating then a Benchmade Griptilian and the same as the Mini-Grip gets on Amazon.

If you compare the prices, 8,31 USD which I paid for the Sanrenmu versus 98 USD for the Griptilian on Amazon, it really is an amazing deal of a knife. Even accounting for 'nice for the price' reviews, some people really seem to take a liking to these Chinese clones.

We'll see if I like these as much as my 7063.

Cold Steel Tuff Lite, this is a good utility knife though the cutting edge is pretty tiny

https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-CS20LT-BRK-Tuff-Lite/dp/B006YBW6MY


Honey Badger medium, it's more expensive than $25 but it's quirky and very good IMO. The large and small versions aren't quite as good as the medium.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CPNZ7C8/


SRM Land 910 Plus, ignore the "sharpener" it's junk. This is one of the best knives you can buy IMO but they're getting discontinued

https://www.amazon.com/Folding-Sharpener-Tactical-Outdoor-Sharpening/dp/B07BGC4RDH/

The Tangram Santa Fe is good as well but I liked the SRM better.

I really really like a $13 Mora. Rugged, sharp as heck, solid...so cheap you don't feel bad really really using it and beating the piss out of it. A real been-there-done-that guy I know recommended them to me and after using one (and having lots of other fixed blades, I truly love it)
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004TNWD40
They make a serrated also:
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Serrated-4-3-Inch-Stainless/dp/B00K70MLK0/ref=sr_1_10?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1509940703&sr=1-10&keywords=mora+black


If I was going to pick anything maybe one of these:
http://www.jayfisher.com/USAF_Pararescue_Knives.htm

This with an aftermarket sheath:
https://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Snody-Handle-Included-Purple/dp/B00ILFNAYY


Actually what am I smoking. This: 100x this. If you've held it in your hand you know that it is the most comfortable knife I've ever held.

http://www.benchmade.com/bushcrafter-family.html

Although the Busse I'm evaluating now is pretty dope.... I still want a Benchmade Bushcrafter.

If it was for overall survival/utility I'd want a Himalayan Imports Khukuri.

For Search/Rescue specifically... give me a tanto-point, combo-edge...honking chunk of steel.
https://www.topsknives.com/knives/tactical/tops-pry-knife-ppp-tool
https://www.topsknives.com/knives/survival/smoke-jumper

Could be persuaded to try these
http://www.benchmade.com/fixed-blade-knives.html?blade_style_shape=861

something stupid and overbuilt (in the best way)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Axt6pJERJ38

Are these what you're referring to - [Ontario Rat](https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=pd_bxgy_200_img_2? amd the ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8CAA01P0370Z040V1D22) and the Rat 2?

I would like a partially serrated blade but this looks great and have awesome reviews. Do you own on of the RATs and if so do they hold up pretty well?

Now I just need to find a good sharpening setup besides my 4 stone sets.

In that price range you might as well go Chinese, you can get these from china direct for 5 bucks off for each model, about.

Sanrenmu 7010, very nice for the price. Framelock very pleasing to the eye

https://www.amazon.com/Sanrenmu-7010LUC-SA-Pocket-Folding-Knife/dp/B00GMMPIK2

I own a few ganzos as well and am very pleased with them, they even make a copy of the Ontario Rat but with a much nicer lock.

Ganzo 727 (copy of rat profile)
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dsporting&field-keywords=ganzo+727

And they have other copies as well
https://www.amazon.com/Ganzo-G729-BK-Folding-Knife-Handle/dp/B015Y2LQN8/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1480310480&sr=1-1&keywords=ganzo+729


If you don't mind a long wait you could order from china direct. I've had very good results with a site called gearbest but I see others referenced all the time

http://www.gearbest.com/ganzo-_gear/

You should pick up a few high value knives for the money. Here are a few that are worth way more than their price tag:

Mora Companion - this blade is incredibly useful for camp tasks and bushcraft projects, very strong even though it's not full tang (I've never heard of one breaking).

Ontario RAT Model 1 - This is one of the best folders I've used, at any price. For $26 you won't find a better knife.

Utilitac 2 - This knife comes in a ton of different styles, made by Ontario like the RAT, and of equally high quality. These knives are built like tanks, and can take abuse.

Schrade SCHF9 - Unlike the Mora, this knife is a huge chunk of steel. I doubt you could break it with a hammer to be honest, so if you're tastes run towards the bigger camp knife, this is it.

Here are my personal essentials.

• Spyderco Delica 4: $60 VG-10 steel, comes in tons of colors
  
• Spyderco Endura 4: Larger version of Delica
  
• Morakniv Companion: $12-$20 A really awesome fixed blade, outperforms knives triple it's price.
  
• Victorinox Tinker: $20-25 classic swiss army knife, really great quality in general. Lots of tools but not too many so it's easily pocket carried.
  
• Victorinox Cadet: Smaller Swiss Army Knife, aluminum handles. Lots of colors.
  
• Kershaw Cryo, or Cryo 2: $20-40 steel frame lock, Hinderer design, good price, tons of colors. The Cryo 2 is the same as the Cryo just larger.
  
• Ontaro Rat 1 or 2: $25-30 Classically shaped folders with a very rugged build for a liner lock. The 2 is a smaller version of the 1.
  
  Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.
  
  P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.

Freehand and under $15 the Whetstone Cutlery 400/1000 Grit Whetstone is a nice starting affordable freehand whetstone.

Guided and under $25 the Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener is a nice mini complete package that includes a 220 grid diamond plate for chip repair, a fine 600 grit diamond plate, 1000+ grit ceramic rod and a leather strop with compound.

You can also send the knife back to Kershaw for a free sharpening then just invest in a nice strop with compound to touch up the edge. Done properly you only need to send it back to Kershaw probably once a year if that.

For a cheap brilliant bushcraft knife:

http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Tactical-4-3-Inch-Plastic/dp/B009O01H0Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422126084&sr=8-1&keywords=mora+bushcraft

For a cheap brilliant bushcraft knife in wet conditions:

http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Sandvik-Stainless-4-3-Inch/dp/B00B90H1T8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1422126084&sr=8-4&keywords=mora+bushcraft


For a very cheap good bushcraft knife:

http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004TNWD40/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422126275&sr=8-1&keywords=mora

For a very cheap good bushcraft knife in wet conditions:

http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Stainless-4-1-Inch/dp/B005EOJAKI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1422126315&sr=8-3&keywords=mora+orange

I have THIS torx set. I like it. I have been thinking about getting a 2nd one. You would also need a bit holder with this.

I free hand sharpen with dmt stones, but I hear good things about the Spyderco sharpmaker (be sure to get the diamond rods). I use a Flexxx strop (USA Made blades) and Bark River compound. There are a few good strop makers here on reddit too. A lot of people use nano-oil as lube. I use flouro grease and militec oil.

I use the Lansky guided system and it gives me a good edge. I have the set that comes with 5 grits and it works well. It will take about 30~45 minutes if the knife is completely dull. It will give the knife a near mirror finish but you can finish with a strop and get a good polished edge. The guides work well and make them process very easy. I'll say that I've found it very helpful to mount the clamp in a vise or fasten it to a block wood. The systems are easily find on Amazom. I think I paid about $35.

Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JyYzDb6ZYYS6X

These are not the same grit as what you mentioned but do you think this will do? The reviews are all pretty good and it's cheap. Thanks!

http://www.amazon.com/Smiths-TRI-6-Arkansas-TRI-HONE-Sharpening/dp/B00062BIT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419725416&sr=8-1&keywords=sharpening+stones#customerReviews

I have the KnivesPlus Strop Block. It seems to be pretty popular, and it comes loaded with stropping compound which was really nice for me as a strop noobie. I bought mine off of Amazon, but I couldn't find it there for whatever reason.

And yeah, it's hard to explain what the right amount of pressure is. Too light and you're barely touching the stone. Too much and you might not feel when your angle is off. You kinda just learn what feels right over time.

For practice, the Showtime would be fine. Though, you might want to just go get an Ozark Trail knife from Walmart. They're less than $5 and have soft as shit steel. It grinds away really fast so you get pretty good feedback. And once you can get that sharp, you can start moving up to better steels. Just be aware that the harder steels do take a while longer to sharpen. Patience and knowing when to progress onto the next stone are really important.

I saw someone mention that the DMTs are terrible to learn on because they don't have a backing. I agree to an extent. I think the DMTs are fine to learn on if you either buy or make your own stone holder. Those things are a godsend. I learned the very basics of freehand on a Smith's Tri-hone Natural Arkansas, but most of my experience has been on DMTs.

I've fucked up plenty of my knives. Like my $200 ZT0566 in M390 has uneven bevels because my pull stokes tend to be at a lower angle than my push strokes. Oh well though. Sharpening is a skill like any other. Learn from your mistakes and don't be too nervous about making them. I feel if I'm too afraid to risk dicking up my knife while sharpening, then I should be equally afraid to dick it up while using it. And at that point, why even worry about it being sharp?

Those are some sexy knives!

At home the 8" Victorinox Fibrox Pro Chef's Knife: https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Fibrox-Chefs-Knife-8-Inch/dp/B008M5U1C2 takes good care of what I throw at it. But I do have an itch for a sexy japanese wife, I mean KNIFE. Don't tell my wife I said that...

Get a pair of Mora Companions for $14 each and if you find out that you want something more then you can look for something more focused for your type of outdoors use. Most "survival" knives are lumped together in one category that makes it difficult to distinguish what their type design is for. KaBar Becker BK2 is basically a sharpened pry-bar. The thing is practically bomb-proof but its thick blade and obtuse grind means that it won't be very easy to cut with. Esee knives are also tough, and feature more functional grinds and and a great warranty, but 1095 steel they use is still going to be inferior in edge retention and edge stability to premium CPM-3v or Vanadis 4-Extra that you see on stuff like a GSO-4.7 or the ZT-0180. Then you have knives like Falknivens that use high-end stainless laminated steels which are price because the process for laminating is expensive and complicated and provides a stainless blade with some of the impact absorption that normally is attributed to carbon blades while still maintaining a harder edge. The reason I suggest a Mora is that for someone new to the fixed blade game, it's an option that won't break the bank and is also probably the highest value for the price of any fixed blade available. It's the Timex of knives. Not fancy but it works and is easy to replace if you lose or break(which is still pretty unlikely) it.

http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004TNWD40/ref=pd_sim_468_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31RSOV7Bn4L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0QT33JYXQS3ZD772EAFD

The key to proper sharpening is a consistent angle. Some people can hand sharpen with success, but this requires a ton of time and practice to master. Products like the Lansky Turn Box and Spyderco Sharpmaker both hold the sharpening rods at an angle and it's left up to the user to keep the knife straight while sharpening. Some argue that your sharpener should have a guide system in order to keep a consistent angle. These systems will clamp the blade in place and have a guide for the rods, which for the most part eliminates the variable of the users hand not staying straight. The Lansky 5 Rod sharpener is an entry level guided system that is very reasonably priced IMO and works well. Some pros (not me by any means) insist on using products like the Edge Pro Apex or Wicked Edge systems which have the ability to have near perfect angles. These are both several hundred dollar systems and are way over kill for the casual user IMO. I'd say go for the Lansky 5 Rod, otherwise jump in where your budget allows.

I got this Wiha set after after destroying a few cheapo bits and couldn't be happier with it. Bonus: the box can act as a handle in a pinch

I also recommend this magnetic bit driver. It's reasonably priced, very comfortable in hand, and the magnet is very strong.

I have that same clone and it definitely is pretty solid. But, my contender for best $20 (give or take 3 bucks) knife is still the Rat 2

I like my Worksharp Field Sharpener. Diamond stones, ceramic, and a strop with a guide for 26 bucks. Also, great for camping when you get a nicer set.

If this is the gif you saw (in video form) that is the RAD knives field cleaver! It is a crazy good knife but it will set you back 1-3 grand, they are also very hard to get. You can get nearly any knife that sharp so i would reccomend investing in a cheaper knife like the Spyderco Tenacious and also some sharpening supplies like the Spyderco Sharpmaker although all of my Spyderco knives have came that sharp from the get go.

That's what /r/knifeclub is all about! Enjoy! Consider using that extra $30 for a lansky 5 stone sharpening system.

Edit: definitely check /r/knife_swap too. There are lots of great knives for cheap

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: This is what I have


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Germany|www.amazon.de||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

I use this on the knives at work, my own kitchen knives, and my pocketknives. So far its been pretty great and easy to learn on. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00062BIT4/ref=aw_ls__1?colid=1PPOV7FEN2MX7&coliid=IZTEXOO6CTVND

Heres the full size clone.


Heres a small version.

Those SRM 710's use to be like $6-8. I've bought dozens of them and given them out to people. Really a great knife. Its still totally worth it at $15.

How long did that take? Which Lansky did you use? And did you do the reprofiling with that sharpener, or something else? I ask because I feel like, even with the super rough diamond hone, it would take forever to reprofile an edge with this.

Edit: Added more

You'd think they would give you a bit of a warning, but I understand why they wouldn't.

If you think you're going to be serious about collecting and sharpening knives. Drop some cash on something like: Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker & a set of ultra-fine stones to go with it.

It'll set you back about $75 all together, but it's a one time purchase that will last you your life.

There are other awesome sharpening systems out there, but that one is the most bang for your buck. If you want to spend stupid money on a sharpener; I hear wicked edge makes an awesome product

I always recommend the Spyderco Sharpmaker, especially for someone just starting out learning to sharpen.

http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tri-Angle-Sharpmaker-Sharpener-204MF/dp/B000Q9C4AE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409929371&sr=8-1&keywords=spyderco+sharpmaker

Instructional video by the creator: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB0r6GvESGg

It's good for folders, fixed blades, kitchen knives, scissors, serrated, plain edge. Pretty much anything with a blade can be sharpened with this thing.

The Companion is probably their best seller. They have a Heavy Duty version with a heavier blade, and they have many different knives if you want something different. They are all very similar though, with the only real difference being carbon steel or stainless. They're all well made and worth your money.

Just to add a few more that fall well under budget and are still awesome.

• Kershaw Skyline
  
• Spyderco Tenatious
  
• Ontario Rat 2
  
• CRKT Swindle

haha, but really Moras are probably overlooked way too often. I'm the first idiot who'll choose a knife for its looks before looking at how actually useful it is.

hey since you seem to be knowledgable with moras, how easy is sharpening on a system like mine ?

Here you go: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IHT32Q?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links. It works great, and is pretty cheap too.

I own a worksharp guided field sharpener $29
And a worksharp guided sharpener (tabletop)

Easy to use and makes a shaving edge I stay away from belt drive sharpeners. Kinda feel like they remove too much material from a edge and shortens the life of the knife

Read the amazon reviews for the field sharpener
Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener - sharpening guides, diamond plate, ceramic rod, leather strop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YKHZ96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GQ2YCbEBYWV4H

r/knives has a weekly sharpening thread stickied at the top where you can loiter and learn. I'm like you and am currently looking at the $25 Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener, a compact boi that has diamond plates, ceramic rods, a leather strop, and sharpening angle guides. I don't need it for field use, but I just want to get a taste basically. As my first dip into sharpening other than the little stones that came in the pockets of fixed blade sheaths, I figure it's a good place to start to touch things up a bit and get some practice. Maybe once I do a bit of that and learn a bit more, I might upgrade to something more.

Kabar Becker. They're tanks with a reputation. Good luck with your travels as well.

After reading through the comments, you really can't go wrong with either the BM940 or the ZT0450. Also, a cheaper and just as great sharpening set is the Lansky System. All you need to add to it are the Leather and Diamond strops, oh and the Stand.

This lansky is only $32 and a really good beginner system. You could also buy the diamond stone version and an Ultra Fine stone together for about 70 bucks. Either way I'd also buy a stand.

Just ordered one on Amazon! Thanks for the heads up on a good/cheap knife.

Link for others if you're interested: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GMMPIK2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Y'all are dangerous. This came from just a little bit of browsing this sub and some searching and review reading and whatnot. Amazon links for convenience:

Leatherman Crater c33Tx

Kershaw Leek

Schrade SCHF9 Extreme Survival Knife

CRKT 2020 AG Russell Sting

Any advice or substitutions anybody care to offer? I think for the money this is a pretty damn fine set of 4 knives. The Leatherman might get some funny looks but I had its younger brother for many years and it would probably replace my current EDC (Kershaw Skyline)

Edit: Will definitely take lots of pictures when I pull the trigger.

That looks amazing, how much did it all cost?

I'd love to get my blade mirror polish like that but I don't want to spend a lot.

Is this one the one you used?

Spyderco Tenacious G-10 Handle Folding Plain Edge Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EI7578/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_P69Hub10V4186


Welcome to the club :)

Oh okay cool! Is the the box like this one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Mi5EDbN0TA1RB

> Ontario RAT1

to be clear, this knife? http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E i kind of wanted a flipper with the little edge that you push down with your index finger. i've liked using those. does this RAT open by flicking your wrist?

I actually use this. The oil that runs down the sides oils the other stones and drips into the tray at the bottom.

I'd probably use a cheap rag or something. Once it gets nice and oily you can use it to wipe down blades to prevent rust and to clean them.

$12.95 actually. I put it on par fit and finish wise with most $50 knives.

You are very lost right now, it will all be okay.

First you need to understand what sharpening, honing, and maintaining are.


Sharpening = setting a bevel, restoring the edge
This includes taking out chips, reprofiling the blade ( reprofiling is taking the current edge angle and changing it, say 30° to 20°)


Honing = refining that edge and adding a micro bevel ( a micro bevel is adding a slightly more obtuse angle at the very edge, this increases wear resistance and improves performance )


Maintaining = stripping ( this can be done on most any porous material, well get back to stripping )


--------------------

I don't recommend that someone new to sharpening start with bench stones, you can really mess up a blade if you don't follow the proper technique.


There are many systems that can do this whole bevel thing for you, you just need to follow the instructions.

This is a well regarded system that will reliably produce sharp, and consistent edges


Now, stripping;
Stripping is for when you roll an edge, or if it's not
Blunt enough for sharpening, it's also for refining the edge.
Stripping on leather is not always a good thing, leather is to some degree soft, it will give just a little and it can blunt the edge.

I personally strip on wood, there is little to no chance of blunting. I use basswood and pine.


> the higher grit the better...



Yes and no. It all depends on what you're cutting.
Some people love toothy edges ( not taken to a high grit)
While I love polished edged ( taken to high grits )


Bench stones are usually just larger.

My version is a little crappy, but check out /u/atomedge for a good one, Link for atomedge's guide


EDIT: I saw my mistake, I'm keeping it.

I recommend this one. It has I nice grip and it is still one of the cheapest mora knives.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004TNWD40?pc_redir=1395426251&robot_redir=1

I use this: http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420386204&sr=8-1&keywords=lansky+sharpeners and an old leather belt for a strop. My hands aren't steady enough for traditional stones and this seemed like the best bang for the buck.

Blade to handle ratio is a dumb concept. Some knives are designed to have a large hand filling handle and short blade. Larger blades aren't always desirable. It's like people think they're getting ripped off - "Hey they coulda fit more blade in there what are you trying to pull?"

Look at this terrible blade to handle ratio.

Other sharpeners that I’ve seen recommended are the Lansky system and the spyderco sharpmaker . I haven’t tried either system personally, I use a KME as well, but they get recommended quite regularly from what I’ve seen.

$40.31 on amazon. Lol.

http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tenacious-Handle-Folding-Plain/dp/B001EI7578

$63 on amazon, prime shipping any day of the week.

And it won't take a month to get to you either. Massdrop is great for certain things but 90% of their drops are trash.

Ontario Rat 2

Spyderco Persistence

Byrd Meadowlark2 G10

Though in my opinion, none of these are as good as your Delica for medium/hard use.

This is the Sanrenmu 710, and holy crap is it an incredible little knife for the price. I'm seriously considering buying two or three more and having various pimp jobs done to them.

The only gripe I have (which is kinda silly considering the pricetag) is that the handle is too slick and becomes "sweaty" feeling in the hand relatively quickly.

Seriously though, wow, buy one and skip a dinner if you have to.

I'm sure most people know most of these knives but I figured I'd list them anyways.

Top:

Morakniv 4.1 inch carbon

Left:


Boker Plus Urban Trapper Knife Black G-10

Benchmade 531

Zero Tolerance 0350

Spyderco Delica 4

Higo no Kami 7

Right:

Really old Leatherman Wave

Kershaw Emerson CQC-6K

Benchmade Presidio

Kershaw Skyline

Case Sodbuster Jr.

If you want a good and cheap sharpening system, the smith tri hone Or the venerable lansky guided system if you just need to touch up go for a spyderco sharpmaker

It's not the best rock out there, but I use it on almost all of my knives. I highly recommend it, especially for the price.

Smith's TRI-6 Arkansas TRI-HONE Sharpening Stones System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062BIT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k0QJxb1ZQNRAN

[Smith's TRI-6](Smith's TRI-6 Arkansas TRI-HONE Sharpening Stones System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062BIT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k0QJxb1ZQNRAN)

Maybe something more like the Kershaw Skyline?

Keep your gold. :)

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-05848-Knife-Black-Blade/dp/B0001WAOYE

I'd suggest a Lansky knife sharpening system I believe the deluxe version has an extra coarse hone (70 grit) if you need that to re-profile the blade. It also has an extra fine hone (1000 grit) so you can really polish it up. Additionally you can get a strop as well.

Just looked it up, it's on offer. From $76.22 down to a very reasonable $33.99.

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4

I did a lot of research on this lately. A camp knife and a backpacking knife can differ IMO. At least for me, weight is a bigger issue, and I won't be doing any bushcraft when I am backpacking, so something like a Mora will be fine for food prep and such. But, camping you might need a bigger, more substantial knife for chopping of heavier tasks. I would suggest a either a Schrade SCHF9 or This Ka-Bar.

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Diamond-Deluxe-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8L6LS

Still diamond stones, but you lose the ceramic hone and from what I've heard this system is overall a little worse, but many people love it and it'll probably serve you well.

Definitely the Ontario Rat 1, in my opinion. Here's the link:

Ontario 8848 RAT Folding Knife (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_2uBAwbHX4BTW9

The only thing about that particular steel is that it's carbon steel, not stainless. It will change color over time if you don't put oil on it.

Edit: some other options are this Spyderco or the Ontario RAT, if you are interested in more tactical designs.

I think people around here usually recommend Lansky's guided system: http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4

I personally use the DMT aligner kit.

Thats actually a good outlook. I started respecting knives more when i started carving. You could get a cheap mora carving knife and go that route. It teaches control and also is super fun.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GATX62/ref=emc_b_5_t

You could go for the roadie. Its a slip joint but has a 50/50 choil. Youd get a scare but could likely prevent a complete closure on fingers.

https://www.bladehq.com/item--Spyderco-Roadie-Slip-Joint-Knife--26845

G-10 Kershaw Skyline for sure. Same price range, slightly smaller blade and almost half the weight.

I use the Diamond Deluxe Lansky kit with an Arkansas hone.

If you don't have "super steel" on your knives, you can easily get away with the regular Lansky kit (non-diamond).

I use an old leather belt for a strop.

And I use the Spyderco Sharpmaker for touchups. Got it used on /r/knife_swap.

I am a Kershaw fan for sure. However, for that price point, I can make no higher recommendation than the Ontario Rat 1
http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E
It has a larger blade of similar if not better quality and is a beast of a deal.

Ka-Bar Becker BK2

Ontario RAT-3

Becker BK-16

Depending how big of a knife you want

Save up for a Lansky Sharpening System or a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Carbide pull-through sharpeners will tear-up and eventually weaken the edge of your blades. Here's an example.

I'm really sorry. I worry that something like this will happen whenever I approach a new music venue.

It's probably a bit heavier than your M16, but the Ontario Rat-1 is a really solid, affordable pocket knife for under $30.

It has AUS-8 steel, a broad, deep full-flat-ground blade, bronze phosphor washers in the pivot and a very solid liner-lock.

EDIT: I just remembered that Ontario recently released the Rat-2, which is both smaller and lighter than the Rat-1, and very similar in size to the CRKT M16.

Ontario Rat-2, $27.

Oh ok. Achieving razor sharpness isn't as difficult as it seems, but like other commenters always say when these types of sharpeners are brought up, you're gonna lose too much material.

This is what I have but I should probably get a few more grits.

This one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8IEA4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

With the stand: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8L6NG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Someone else suggested this product, also by Lansky. What's the difference?

It looks an awful lot like a different type of Lansky or Sharpmaker type system. Because I know more about those and use a Sharpmaker myself, on that note alone I would recommend a Lansky system or a Sharpmaker.