Best products from r/lasercutting

I own both a gen 4 and a gen 5 FSL hobby laser, and I really like them both. There's a decent community forum here:

http://fslusers.freeforums.org/

You'll get some good answers there.

For 1), I don't know; I don't have their exhaust fan. They didn't have it available when I bought mine, but it looks decent enough. Without seeing it in person I can't comment on if it's worth $200 or not, but I use this one on one of my lasers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O8D0IC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage and it's loud but works well. On my other I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005XNNYMU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage and it's much quieter and also works very well. Granted my ducting is 6" to match, but I like it.

For 2), what diameter items? I got my rotary for free from some promotion/preorder/I can't remember and I actually have barely used it. It's hard to fit into the machine, as it raises items up off the floor of the laser, and there isn't much vertical height left over. I'd estimate you could only do roughly 1/2" diameter stuff without removing the floor of the laser (which isn't hard), but even then you'll likely only get to 1" or so. You'd need to remove the floor and set it up on something to get anything bigger. The removable floor is pretty nice; I took mine out and haven't looked back.

For 3), I can't comment on the cost of the 45W tube, as I didn't get one with mine, but I don't see it being worth it. You can get a whole second tube from LightObject for less than the cost of "upgrading" that first tube: http://www.lightobject.com/SP-35W-CO2-Sealed-Laser-Tube-for-Small-K40-laser-engraving-machine-P208.aspx Note that, despite being labeled as a "40W" laser, most of these small machines are actually about 30-32W. 40W refers to the peak pulse power when starting up; it's not a continuous run rating.

As far as compressors go, I haven't ever run without one. It helps TREMENDOUSLY when vector cutting and helps a LOT to keep your lens clean. Their compressor is OK but it's a bit pricey; I'd look around and see if I could find a continuous-duty-rated compressor for cheaper than that.

Don't get their water chillers either. The $600 one is just a radiator and a fan, and won't chill your water much. You get WAY more bang for your buck from a 5 gallon bucket. If you run it for a long time, freeze gallon jugs of water and put them in the bucket. I've run 100% power vector cutting jobs for 2 hours at a time with a gallon of ice in there, and it's just about right. You might need another half gallon; it's been a while since I've used that method. Their "Advanced chiller" looks decent, but it's WAY overpriced. An equivalent unit from here: http://www.vminnovations.com/search/index.html?q=AACH25 is $425 for a brand new one, and less than $300 for a refurb, and it's actually a refrigerant based unit. I installed an 80W tube in mine (not their official kit) and use that chiller and it works great.

Last, don't get their 90W upgrade kit either unless you have a REALLY good reason to. A tube and PSU cost around $1100, so you're paying nearly $2000 for brackets and a wiring harness. It's just not a good value, but then again installing your own 80W tube isn't exactly a walk in the park if you don't have some fabrication tools handy.

I hope that helps. For what it's worth I really like my lasers and they have served me well. If I get another laser it'll probably be a direct import from GWeike, but that's only because I've been using the FSL lasers for so long and have learned a TON from them.

OK, so you have the older hobby type.It looks like the compression flange that holds the pipe in place is melted. The brass part is probably untouched, but I'd remove clean and reseat anyway. You'll need a new conmpression flange for the air assist pipe. I'd also order a whole new air supply line at the same time. I'd contact FSL via phone and order a new one. It may be the sort of thing that a hardware or even hobby store might have but I'd just go via FSL. While you're waiting, give that laser a good top to bottom clean. I mean everything. You can use windex and a clean rag for most of the inside, then use qtips and 70% isoproply on the mirrors and lenses. Don't use any weird cleaners like CLR etc. If something's really baked on, then use a bit of goo gone, but don't get it on the bearings - apply it directly to the rag not the laser. Check all the tube connecttions and try to clean everything. Don't worry about the barings, they're sealed so if there's shot or giving play (and it's not a case of tightening the wheels - see the online videos from FSL) then it better to replace them that try to lube them. Also chack that everything is squared an accurate such as the gantries and rails (you can measure between the top and bottom, left and right extremes). You may want to also buy new water hoses - my FSL 5th Gen came with silicone ones with split after a few years, so I replaced with clear PVC tubing (also better as you can see the water/bubbles in action so you know it's working).
Then when all the parts are replaced, do a full mirror and lens calibration (again see the vids from FSL).
Good luck and don't be afraid to post here if you need any help or tips -several of us, including the co-mod of the sub have FSL's.
EDIT: here's the sort fo thing you're looking for but again, get it from FSL as I have no idea about the thread size needed. Also, a lot of people suggest using pipe thread liquid instead of teflon tape when screwing the replacement in, as it apparently gives a much better seal.

https://www.amazon.com/MettleAir-MTC-Connect-Straight-Fitting/dp/B00S511S9I/ref=pd_sim_328_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00S511S9I&pd_rd_r=9T5ZKAP950Z9FMFWVD0J&pd_rd_w=CHJAz&pd_rd_wg=7tynf&psc=1&refRID=9T5ZKAP950Z9FMFWVD0J

I have the smaller k40 and the first upgrade I did was printing an exhaust adapter and getting a new extraction fan since I didn't feel like potentially burning my house down with the included fan. I had to fix the wiring out of the box since the fan wiring is crap and would have definitely caught fire at some point after firing it up.
I went with a 440 cfm 6" fan from amazon. The adapter I printed for the back of the k40 was a 4" so I also got 24-6" adapters from amazon to connect it to the fan and then from the fan to the window. I used it on both sides since I had already bought a good length of 4" hose and didn't want to also buy 6" as well. I put weather stripping on all connections in the exhaust line so I have virtually no smell in my office when running it.

I got an air pump on Amazon and3D printed an adapter I got from Thingiverse for it to direct the airflow in line with the laser. I bought my tubing for the air assist at Home Depot.
I also added a drag chain to keep the hose out of the way. I bought mine on Amazon but you can print that and adapters yourself if you're up for it.

The next upgrade I did was to add the mA meter since I have a digital panel on mine. That gives a much more accurate read on the power when using the laser.
I then upgraded my control board to the Cohesion 3D Laserboard ($200)and started using Lightburn ($40) for the software. That software lets you do a LOT more with the machine and you can also add a camera to get a view of the print area in the software to help with laying out materials.

Because the new board has power management built-in I set the k40 to the max power I would want to use on a project and then control the power levels from the software. This also lets you do true grayscale images and 3D engravings.
Because I don't like to have the exhaust and air pump running all the time I also got some wifi smart plugs. Each plug has two outlets and each of those can be controlled individually. They can also be controlled by an echo so I have that setup as well. Since you can also group smart plugs in the Alexa app I have one set up for everything and when I'm done working on a project I can either tell my echo to shut off power to the group or hit the button in the app to shut it all off at once.

For water cooling I'm using a home depot bucket however I have hose couplers installed in the lid for the water lines so if I want to move things around I don't have to completely disconnect everything and pull the pump out of the water. I just pull the hoses off the top of the lid and the pump stays in the bucket. I have the plug for the pump also going through the lid with a rubber seal around it. Depending on how hot it gets in the workspace a water chiller might be recommended.

The latest item I bought is a lab jack which I'm going to use to make a manual adjustable bed. If you can make one yourself or buy one at an affordable price an automatic Z bed would be great if you want to work on larger materials. A manual adjusting bed is fine for me now though.
I still need to purchase a new bed for it and get rid of the crap that came with it. I might try to salvage it though by drilling holes in it and installing metal spikes to rais the material up off the surface.

On my list of to-dos is to get a better lens and upgrade the mirrors. I haven't had an issue with what I have now so it hasn't been a priority.

I hope this helps with your project.

I've got the exact same machine.

- I run my Air pressure at about 100-120 PSI.

-Be sure the keep your lenses clean. I cracked one in my first week due to stupidity.

-Be sure your air is on. The machine wont run if the chiller isn't running, so you don't have to worry about that.

-Be sure to pull your collection tray before it is full, otherwise you are going to be pulling bed slats to get the excess out.

-Spend $100 bucks on amazon and get a different blower for exhaust. The one that comes with it is super loud. I got one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tjernlund-M-6-Booster-Hydroponic-Conditioning/dp/B005XNNYMU/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=6%22+blower&qid=1564068420&s=industrial&sr=1-13

-If you are cutting metal, be sure you are using oxygen and not compressed air

-Have Fun. The boss is a great machine. Just start playing and learning and if you get really really stuck, boss laser tech support is awesome

I bought a laser cutter and the stipulation was that I must have excellent fume control if I were to get one put in the warehouse. I didn't want to pay the crazy costs of a fume extractor. So, over the weekend I designed and cut this one instead. Here are all the parts necessary if anybody is interested in the costs. I chose very expensive filters - almost the most expensive I could find - and still came in way under the cost of a typical fume extractor:

(1) 8' x 4' X 1/4" Sheet Baltic Birch - $30

(1) 3-set medical grade air filters with pre-filter, activated carbon, and hyper hepa filter - $290

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019NOUBYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(1) 10lbs of Activated Carbon - $25

https://www.amazon.com/AQUANEAT-Activated-Carbon-Aquarium-Canister/dp/B072BKVJGM/ref=sr_1_4?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1536687839&sr=8-4&keywords=10+lb+activated+carbon

(1) 8 " Inline Fan - $80

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DXYMM2I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(1) Wood Glue - $5

(1) Super Glue - $1

(1) 25' Duct - $30

(2) 8" Duct Starters - $8

(1) 8" x 4" Reducer - $8

(LOTS) of Clamps

Total Cost $477

So I'm ready to finish the assembly, but now I want to engrave something funny or cool on the door. Any good ideas?

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I just got this jump house blower today. I plugged it in and turned it on for a bit and was extremely impressed with just how quiet it was. I was easily expecting it to be 2-3 times louder. I just need to 3D print some parts for it and I will be good to go. Thanks for the post.

The motor assembly looks 100% identical to this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WM1VPKE/

So, that's kinda interesting. The specs don't match though.

Unfortunately, the listing is kinda bullshitty. It says "4 CFM" and "100 PSI", but there aren't any X CFM @ Y PSI figures. It definitely can't deliver 4 CFM @ 100 PSI. It can achieve one or the other, not both.

The minimum is something like 1.1 CFM @ 30 PSI.

It should be able to do that.

More pressure isn't really needed, but more throughput (2-2.5 CFM) might be helpful.

You'll also need a regulator with filter/trap.

If you want to turn the air on/off automatically, you'll need a solenoid. It's an electronically controlled valve which you can connect to your controller.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000O8D0IC?fp=1&pc_redir=T1

This is what I use. Can't really say it is good or bad since I don't have anything else to compare it to. It does suck up most of the fumes but not 100%. Some always escapes when I open the lid.

I keep the original fan just for the housing and easier hookup to the 4" vent hose.

Considering how dangerous the stock K40 seems to be, I'm trying to preemptively plan and budget my upgrades before it even arrives, and just want to make sure I make the right purchases.

For lasercutting n00bs who are visual learners like me, would it be possible to get some pictures of your ventilation configuration featuring a typical bounce house blower (like this one)?

Right now, my upgrade list is prioritized thusly:

• Safety: Proper ventilation (and air assist), eye protection, interlocks, upgraded water pump
  
• Quality: Better optics and lens
  
• Flexibility: Expanded cutting area, motorized Z table
  
• Ease of Use: Upgraded controller (Smoothie)
  
  I freely admit I know nothing (Jon Snow)... yet. So please speak up if I'm missing something yuge. I plan on tackling everything on the above Safety list before I ever do anything more than a basic test fire.

How about transfer tape? I use it as a mask for laser cutting all the time. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Expressions-Vinyl-Transfer-Adhesive-Application/dp/B017UREP4W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542221737&sr=8-5&keywords=paper+transfer+tape

Gorilla Super Glue. I'd probably use E6000. I use it on acrylic all the time now, though I've never tried it on cork.

More research points to this being pretty quiet

https://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-DC3XX-Portable-Collector/dp/B01CU7DKTI#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div


But that perhaps the laser would be louder than the fan anyway? Or that I could build a wooden enclosure to lower the noise? And buy a 6 inch hvac of 240 cfm?


And maybe this would be quiet and powerful enough:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M2XG0E1/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3I2VACYSJR5AQ&psc=1

I'm using a https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOSCDPA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CP02YO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 wired in. I have a pressure regulator (around 20psi for cutting) and dryer hooked into a 3 way manifold (so i can use it for other things). Works great so far and the california compressor is quiet.

I see. I was told something like this would be a bit quieter?

Penn State 1.5hp.


I do need to filter out odors.

https://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-DC3XX-Portable-Collector/dp/B01CU7DKTI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Penn+State+1.5hp&qid=1568763504&sr=8-3

I tried ordinary gorilla glue but it wasn’t a fine enough applicator so I switched to gorilla glue brush and nozzle as it is easier to wipe on small parts such as the cane and it doesn’t smear because it’s much harder to apply too much with the brush.

I'm using this one. It's also loud, but I have it on a separate switch so that I only have to have air and exhaust running when I'm actually lasering. Works fairly well and it was recommended in another forum, which is why I got it.

I’d go with this at the smallest

https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Inline-Variable-Controller-Ventilation/dp/B01DXYMM2I

(Canadian link)

I have one size down for my 40w epilog and would like a bit more flow. Of course my run is not efficient so I will see how I feel after fixing that.

You can never have too much exhaust flow IMO