(Part 2) Best products from r/lawncare

I would get the below, should make it way easier and have some left over - again, judging the size of the lawn by the picture. Although you might buy only 32oz of a liquid product - make sure to check the label/bag rate application as this will tell you if you are buying a concentrate or a diluted product. Concentrate will serve you best in terms of cost/performance for multiple applications but you might not want or might not be able to store excess chemicals - decide which method is best for you but I would stick with liquid applications because your yard is on the smaller side and you wont have to worry about storing heavy bags of product. I use liquid on the front of my lawn because thats my $10,000 view and granular on my side and rear lawn so that I can spread my costs and also be efficient with my time since I have a wife and kid haha.

1. Sprayer (This comes with the humic acid I talk about in #3 but the sprayer, although cheap looking, is quite good to keep for future liquid application)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Simple-Lawn-Solutions-Concentrated-Fertilizer/dp/B01CKK1CPO/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=hose+end+sprayer&qid=1566905833&s=gateway&sr=8-18
   
   

2. Aeration liquid:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Conditioner-Mechanical-Simple-Lawn-Solutions/dp/B071VWCRBD/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=liquid+aeration&qid=1566905660&s=gateway&sr=8-3
   
   ​
   
   
3. Humic Acid (Apply this annually - this makes it so that the fertilizer or any lawn additives you put on the lawn can uptake the nutrients easier, wait until your lawn has become established around 6-8 weeks - this one also adds seaweed which is dense in micronutrients (consider it the equivalent of a multivitamin).
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Seaweed-Fulvic-Blend-Organic-Liquid/dp/B07QPB5H63/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=liquid%2Baeration&qid=1566905660&s=gateway&sr=8-12&th=1
   
   Some really good youtube references is to watch: The Lawn Care Nut, Ryan Knorr (He does a few complete overhauls - so this would probably be your best bet), GCI Turf Academy (Pete is my favorite), and/or The Pest and Lawn Ginja (He has a smaller yard so might also be a good reference)
   
   Here is an example video, I started following this guy because he has a bigger yard: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c54WSOI-MMc
   
   (ignore where he said don't restart your lawn... because you have no lawn haha - otherwise its good)
   
   Note: Your number one concern before all of these additives is to make sure the grass holds and establishes. So spend your CAD $ on good grass seed (Turf Type Tall Fescue is my favorite for my area but check with U of T for recommended blends for your area) and a good price for a 50 lb bag of seed is in/around $150 US - you will likely need 8-10 lbs per 1K square feet for new seeding - other grass types will vary in terms of application rate but it will be on the bag, good starter fertilizer (key word "starter" - regular fertilizer could burn your new grass), and a top dressing to hold the grass seed and keep birds/wind at bay (Peat moss is great but at $10 for 3 cubic feet here in the US it could add up fast - so again U of T soil science center is a great reference to refer to on cost effective ways to seed a new lawn)

I'm going to take a stab at this.

First off, you need to determine what shape your grass is in exactly (it also helps to determine what kind of grass it is). If your grass is yellow but still alive (i.e. poor watering), that's different than if your grass is actually dead.

Assuming your grass is alive, it's important for you to start watering to give the grass some life (no pun intended). Water infrequently (2x/week?) and deeply. This encourages the grass to grow deep roots and will give it strength to ride out droughts/pests/weeds/etc.

You can certainly go about fertilizing. The Scotts website is a halfway decent starting place. University turf management program web pages are also good and sometimes have region-specific calculators to help you determine the optimal times to apply what needs to be applied.

The next thing I'd do is go rent a core aerator. Few things help out a lawn more than this. It will help break up the soil and will encourage grass growth.

As you mow, be sure to use the highest setting. Try to avoid cutting more than 1/3 of the grass at anytime. If your grass is actively growing, you may need to cut more than once a week. Don't bag the clippings - just use a mulching blade.

You can overseed in the fall, but I'd honestly recommend waiting a year to see what you've already accomplished. You don't need to overseed a healthy lawn - and overseeding an unhealthy lawn won't get you anywhere.

Finally, the weeds: There's a "weed patch," and then there's just having a "couple weeds." You'll need chemicals to treat a weed patch - so something like a "weed 'n feed" this May will work for you. Follow the directions closely to ensure that you're applying the right amount, and pay attention to any special instructions i.e. apply to wet grass. Some combo fertilizer/weed killers work better when watered in.

If you have just a few weeds (i.e. next year, after you've put work in this year), it's up to you how diligent you want to be when it comes to killing them. My grass is so thick and strong that very few weeds can survive - and I'm surrounded on 5 sides by my neighborhood's dandelion nurseries. If a weed is really bothering me I'll go out and cut it out (be sure to get the roots), but that's pretty rare.

So, lots to read here but hopefully it's helpful. I'd add this - Scotts Lawns: Your guide to a beautiful lawn was a life saver for me. They don't publish new ones but lawn "technology" hasn't changed in a while. This book will help you immensely and is relatively cheap.

Good luck!

At .3 acres, I would just aerate the heck out of it. This will allow you to get the soil nice and open for air movement, and moisture penetration. At least two passes perpendicular to each other (if possible), and another pass if you have the time/energy.

Using a seed spreader is fine for overseeding. A starter fertilizer is not a bad idea, but please don't overdo it...follow the application rate specified on the bag.

Keep that ground damp, but not soaked. Ideally, you will water a couple to times per day, but avoid nighttime watering as cool nights + moisture promotes fungal issues.

Don't overthink this project. It may take some time to get the soil conditions perfect. Weed and feed should be done after the seed has completely germinated and grass blades are somewhat mature. How long depends on growing conditions. If you weed and feed too early, you can stress the lawn.

This book is a great reference guide for those new to lawns. I highly recommend - it has a yearly calendar for each type of turf, with guides on when to aerate, overseed, fertilize, etc.

Good luck!

EDIT TO ADD: Before you go out and buy that book...let me double check to make sure that is the correct text. The calendar feature is key, and I want to make certain it is the book. I will check when I get home tonight and follow up with you.

I'm sorry, but I do not trust Pennington at all when it comes to turf recommendations, especially since they list Kentucky-31 as a proper turf grass.

Unless you have a fescue type that is designed to be cut that short, you really shouldn't be under 2.5". Even if you follow the 1/3rd rule, you'd need to be cutting as soon as the lawn reaches 3" if you are trying to maintain it with a 2" cut.

Clemson recommends 3 - 3.5" as a general rule of thumb depending on the time of year. (warmer climates compared to Penn St.)

https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/tall-fescue-maintenance-calendar/


Iowa St. recommends 3".

https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2015/11-13/tallfescue.htm

University of Maryland recommends 3-4" for Tall Fescue.

https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/plants/mowinggrasscycling-lawns

Of course there's also always Pete from GCI turf on the ol' Youtube who has arguably the best looking Fescue lawn I've seen, and he likes 4.5 - 5" for hit cut height.

I used to work in the industry, and I know how to treat brownpatch. The article you linked is correct as I said that retail stores themselves don't really keep decent fungicides stocked.

However here's what you can get online for it:

Group 1

Clearys 3336F Fungicide

https://www.domyown.com/clearys-3336f-fungicide-p-1345.html

Group 3:

Propiconazole

https://www.domyown.com/propiconazole-143-p-16567.html?sub_id=16568

Eagle 20EW

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S6ZZFM/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2EO23QHLO0CX9

Tebuconazole
https://www.domyown.com/prime-source-tebuconazole-36-p-12199.html

Myclobutanil
https://www.domyown.com/myclobutanil-20ew-to-fungicide-p-16654.html


Group 3 and 11:
Armada 50 WDG Fungicide

https://www.domyown.com/armada-50-wdg-fungicide-p-1350.html

Group 11:
Fluoxastrobin

https://www.domyown.com/fame-granular-fungicide-p-15599.html

https://www.domyown.com/disarm-fungicide-p-13524.html

Azoxystrobin

https://www.domyown.com/heritage-fungicide-p-1343.html

Other (group M):
chlorothalonil
https://www.domyown.com/daconil-ultrex-turf-care-fungicide-p-2309.html

For Brown patch prevention when conditions first appear that favor a fungus outbreak (Lots of rain, followed by hot humid temps) A preventative application can be applied, and is good for 28 days.

For curative it's a bit more work. It typically takes up to 4 applications, 2 of one group, and one of another group, and then one of either the same group or back to the first group. All 14 days apart.

Typically my fungicide treatment revolves around the cheaper group 3 and group 1 products, with group 11's thrown in for rotation to prevent resistance from developing. If I'm doing Group 1 for my primary, my secondary application will typically be something like Armada. since it has both Group 3 and 11, if I'm using a Group 3 as the main application I'll use something like Heritage for my group 11.

You have to be really careful about where you get your information, as a lot of magazine articles or brochures are written by people who haven't really done the research. I don't trust Turf Mag or sales media to inform me on turf, the same way I don't just the verge to teach someone how to build a computer.

I'll look into this. I have already invested in 2 separate timers and I'm not too interested in buying more, but this may be the best solution. My only concern is the distance they would have to be going from the spigot... more hoses for my hose collection!

I think something like this may be the best solution? https://www.amazon.com/Melnor-4-Zone-Digital-Water-Timer/dp/B0094KM4VK/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1536070143&sr=8-14&keywords=water+timer

I'm late to the game, but I've been pretty happy with these.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-WorkTunes-Protector-Technology-90542-3DC/dp/B0146A4SWA

I wish they were I rechargeable, but I ended up just buying 2 sets of rechargeable AAs. Batteries last at least a full day of work.

Yeah I'm assuming to run more than 1 sprinkler at a time, especially when daisy chained, would probably need some pressure behind it to be most effective.

There are timers with multiple outputs that could turn each sprinkler on independent of eachother, which sounds like it would be useful in a situation where your water pressure is limited.

If I had the water pressure I would daisy chain some sprinklers up, but I imagine the more you attach on a line, the less coverage each one provides. It's quite the pickle.

It may not be the most cost-effective, but if I had a large area to water and not alot of pressure, maybe 4 of those tripod things hooked up to that 4 zone timer (so only 1 was running at a time) might be the best solution.

I think if you have to walk on a seeded lawn though, it's best to do it before they sprout. So I'd try not to be in the business of moving sprinklers multiple times per day if at all possible. I've walked on newly seeded grass (after it sprouted) and I couldn't see any difference afterwards, but I imagine repeated abuse would probably beat it up a bit.

Someone else might come up with a better solution though.

• This is my opinion, and you'll find some that will contradict me, but dethatching with a power rake (or similar machine) is hard on the lawn. If thatch build up is low, I tend to skip it.
  
• I bought this to gauge my sprinkler You can plug that down under the sprinkler then time it, see how much collects, then you have an idea how long you need to leave it out there to get the depth of watering you want. Since the package I bought is out of stock, this will work too
  
• For weeds you can use Ortho Weed B Gone, Roundup for lawns, Bayer Advanced Weed Killer, but anything with the chemical 2,4D in it will work. You can buy 2,4D directly and mix it in your own spray can if you'd like. But that may be overkill for your yard as most any spray bottle you can buy off the shelf will likely be plenty of weed killer for you. If you buy an off the self product, just make sure they say safe for lawns. When I spray, I generally only spray directly on the weeds to kill them instead of blanketing the lawn with it. But keep in mind, 2,4D based products won't kill crabgrass. They target the broadleaf weeds like Dandelions. To stop crab, you have to use pre-emergents, dig them up by hand, or hit them with Qinclorac. (And I tend to fight them in that order)
  
• Mowing: Yes, mulch them back into your lawn. You're putting the fert in there, let the organic matter break back down and feed the next gen.
  
  Good luck!
  
  Lawn care can be as simple or as crazy as you want to make it. The Lawn Care Nut on YouTube is a great resource for tips.

Definitely looks more like a mole tunnel, not a vole tunnel (I've had both). Yes, there will be "exits" somewhere that leave a mound, but could be > 20 feet away from a highway tunnel. Spring traps are the only thing that have worked for me (and haven't had one push it out of the ground...could be the design/weight). I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Wire-Tek-1001-EasySet-Eliminator/dp/B06XTVMF4H/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1QM0HA0MZSG5Q&keywords=mole+trap&qid=1568895041&s=gateway&sprefix=mole%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-4 with great success.

I bought 7 Rain Bird P5RLSP and really liked them. I used them with a 4 zone Melnor timer to water my grass when I over seeded my back yard. Worked out great. 4 zones 2 sprinklers per zone. Used my oscillating sprinkler to cover the last spot, didn't cover as much as the rain birds but still got the job done.

This Oscillating Sprinkler was pretty decent as well for our garden.

Also for reference our PSI I believe was ~50 for reference. Either way I believe both of them had comments of working great on lower psi. I bought for that reason since the last 3 I had bought from the big box stores before them sucked not reaching 1/4 of their rated distance.

Hope this helps narrow it down for ya.

I use this to sharpen my mower blade since I have a Dremel I bought cheap from slickdeals. : https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-A679-02-Attachment-Sharpening-Gardening/dp/B003BIFMK6/ref=asc_df_B003BIFMK6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242081228138&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15613152371212821961&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060286&hvtargid=pla-439773682260&psc=1

Takes a couple of run up and down the blade to get the rust off and sharpens it clean. I also sharpen my other garden blades with this kit. It's really useful and quick and it's idiot proof with a guard at an angle, so it's pretty hard to mess up and sharpen too much. If you like to do detail works, the Dremel is a great tool for other stuff too.

The Simple Grow Solution is concentrated. The instruction tells you to put a couple of oz into a hose sprayer can and attach it to the hose and you are good to go. I bought this can: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071D0EZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So far, I have done the Aerating Soil Loosener on Monday, watered it, then Milo on Wednesdays(today), watered it, I'll use the Humic Fulvic Acid tomorrow. I'll post results in a week. Hopefully it works!

It's not a mix, but I'd recommend Regenerate. It's a top-rated NTEP variety. You already have other grass, so you'd be fine to do a single variety as an overseed.

In particular, this batch available on Amazon is a fantastic price for what you get.

https://www.amazon.com/Regenerate-Tall-Fescue/dp/B01LXQS022/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527722846&sr=8-1&keywords=regenerate+fescue&dpID=618NHHU-XoL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Yeah, I've never even seen bermuda seed before.. All I've heard of was sprigs and plugs, which probably wouldn't help.

Site One Landscape has a turf dye here, but it's very expensive.

Amazon has this, but it's 1 quart for 1000 sq ft? You could get it and spot spray?

Just don't get the turf markers/trackers, that's not dye and just helps you see when you spray clear chemicals.

The irrigation system is completely new.

I'm using the Orbit Bhyve 12 station controller which has worked ok so far. I have been unable to connect it to my smartphone and therefore the wifi doesn't work, but the manual programming has worked fine thus far. The ribbon connector was loose when I received it which caused me a few hours of troubleshooting, but it is functional now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D15HOTU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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The controller is controlling 4 zones through 2 of these manifolds:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001H1GWLC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I decided on 4 zones after calculating the GPM required for the sprinkler heads and comparing it to the GPM measured from my spigot which the system is currently plumbed to. I did leave another mounting point plumbed into the system if I would ever get a dedicated irrigation line. You can see it in the top right of the pic showing all 5 circuits into the box.

All pipe shown is 1" which may be overkill, but it was not significantly more expensive and saved me having to do any calculations for flow loss of a 3/4" system.

Don't spend money on a property that is not yours. One unpopular option is to paint it green.

Amazon

But if you really want a good lawn, post some close up pictures, so we can help you identify the grass first. Then, we can determine the next steps.

In the meantime, watch the lawn Care nut on YouTube.

I got these about a month ago pretty happy with them, same sound damping quality of a good set of muffs, plus bluetooth.

Great, I just did a round of Milorganite, and used this stuff on my weed spots:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072289CA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews

Thanks again for the help.

not familiar one with them but yeah there is one sort of close to me. I can't get speedzone, but something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072289CA/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 looks much stronger than the product I bought.

I buy both the Southern Ag 2-4-d and surfactant. As you can see it is pretty cost effective as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Surfactant-Herbicides-Non-Ionic/dp/B004XDHRCE?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_3041595011

https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Killer-Control-Broad-Leaf/dp/B0072289CA?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_3041595011

Canada produces a lot of potash so you might be able to find it for a good price locally.

Muriate of Potash is cheaper and usually more concentrated but has a higher burn potential than Potassium Sulfate.

Here's a quick example of something you could use that I found on amazon.ca: 10 lbs for $40 CDN: https://www.amazon.ca/10-Pounds-Potassium-Sulfate-Potash/dp/B008NWUXL8/ Another listing says it's 0-0-50

You'll probably want to dissolve concentrated powders like that into warm water and spray it.

>creeping

You nailed it! It’s creeping charlie. It’s notoriously aggressive and resilient, but I had a lot of success with this last summer.

Thanks for the tips. which one would you recommend [Image] (https://www.domyown.com/image-kills-nutsedge-concentrate-p-9448.html), [Bayer] (https://www.domyown.com/bayer-advanced-southern-lawn-concentrate-weed-killer-p-8907.html) or [Anime 2-4D] (https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Selective-Broadleaf-Control/dp/B0072289CA)? Also, should I spray now or wait until my grass starts to green up?

This: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Killer-Control-Broad-Leaf/dp/B0072289CA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537328647&sr=8-3&keywords=2-4d+weed+killer

​

With a little of this mixed in: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Surfactant-Herbicides-Non-Ionic/dp/B004XDHRCE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537328680&sr=8-3&keywords=surfactant

(Crucial in the effectiveness, don't skip!)

​

Best if sprayed by something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FA09S2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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With an adjustable tip for good spot coverage.

What 2,4-d product do you recommend? Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Selective-Broadleaf-Control/dp/B0072289CA

Do I spray the entire lawn or on the individual weeds?

Proper mixture rate for Tenacity (generic...Meso 4 SC)


I am trying to figure out the best way to determine how much Tenacity to add to my tank sprayer for my yard. Between mixture ratio of tenacity per acre, my specific size yard, and my specific sprayer, I am not sure the ratio to use and how heavy to spray...i.e. how much should my sprayer cover?

The sprayer I am using is the Field King Professional...which holds 4 gallons, and sprays .25gpm.

Prodiamine is great. Use it.

Here is a pump one for < 75$ https://www.amazon.com/Professional-190328-Backpack-Sprayer-Killing/dp/B000AYHKUO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549731952&sr=8-3&keywords=backpack+sprayer

If your yard is very large (>10-15k sqft) probably get a battery powered one instead.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-190328-Backpack-Sprayer-Killing/dp/B000AYHKUO

Used this the last couple of years for a 12k lawn and it’s been great.

Definitely a backpack sprayer - either of these will do the job just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FA09S2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H9cVAbNJNPX7N

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-190328-Backpack-Sprayer-Killing/dp/B000AYHKUO?ref_=Oct_TopRatedC_9001143011_2&pf_rd_p=7dca8712-f511-5d28-a84c-468d98cd8d4f&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=9001143011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=ARX2ZPNG6S61PNY13XNH&pf_rd_r=ARX2ZPNG6S61PNY13XNH&pf_rd_p=7dca8712-f511-5d28-a84c-468d98cd8d4f

My husband just got these for Father's Day. He's only used them once so far, but he liked them.

3M WorkTunes Wireless Hearing Protector with Bluetooth Technology and AM/FM Digital Radio (90542-3DC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146A4SWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g3WtzbTDFK95P

I got some dandelion too.

Would it be better to get a Chapin 2000 graden sprayer or an Ortho Multi-Use Hose-End Sprayer?

Looks like fungus. Try using this product.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015X6FIYS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AX6XB8XK2JAWT&psc=1
Or thishttps://www.amazon.com/Eagle-20-EW-Fungicide-Pint/dp/B004S6ZZFM/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1498485935&sr=1-1&keywords=eagle+fungicide

For example my backyard is about 1400 square feet. The mix ratio is 1 oz weed killer per gallon of water and 1 gallon is good for 200 square feet so it would take 7 passes with my 1 gallon tank sprayer. I also put a few drops of dawn dish soap in the mix to act as a surfactant and allow it to really grab the leaves. So I made 7 passes over my whole back yard to ensure even application. This was a huge pain in the ass but it worked. After that I bought weed b gons garden hose attachment garden hose sprayer to make my life easier next time but I haven’t tried it yet. The little weed b gone canister apparently screws right into it.

I have about the same size lawn also with trees and other obstructions. I was considering putting together a temp watering system when I go to overseed in the Spring. Used the Orbit sprinkler design tool online to get an idea of placement and what it would be like. I was going to use zones with this 4 zone timer, alternating one after the other so water pressure stays up and more of the lawn gets watered without moving sprinklers around much.

I do but it's been posted elsewhere and would identify me IRL, so I don't want to post them.

Basically it's 4x of these, 1x of these, and a bunch of PVC fittings from Lowe's. All the PVC stuff uses pipe thread, so on the output side get a female pipe thread (FPT) to male hose thread (MHT) adapter.

I am feeding the system with two 3/4 inch hoses (hoses not included in the $200 total) that flow into these and merge into a single pipe (check valves on each side to mitigate some risk of backflow, but FYI this wouldn't pass code). One hose from each hose bib on my house. With that I'm getting about 10-11 GPM.

That's a dozen of those Orbit catch cups and stands for $27, not just 1. Not bad.

There are also these in a 10 pack:
https://www.amazon.com/Sprinkler-Bright-Outdoor-Water-Measuring/dp/B005C5OP8G/

Or these in an 8 pack:
https://www.amazon.com/Extremely-Accurate-Sprinkler-Calibration-Measuring/dp/B004FNARZQ/


Yeah, I've always seen the cheap recommendation to use empty tuna cans / cat food cans, and spread multiple ones around.

fwiw.. I went through a few of them before trying the Yard Enforcer, which has worked well through 3 seasons now.

Go to a local ranger store for landscaping products. OR amazon https://www.amazon.com/PBI-GORDON-Broadleaf-Herbicide-Gallon/dp/B07G6651T5/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=q4+herbicide&qid=1558901061&s=gateway&sprefix=q4&sr=8-12 (don’t buy this one it’s 2.5 gallons. They sell smaller amounts)

https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Killer-Control-Broad-Leaf/dp/B0072289CA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=2-4d+weed+killer&qid=1558901486&s=gateway&sprefix=2-4d&sr=8-3

You can try this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004S6ZZFM/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Generic Round-Up
https://www.amazon.com/Compare-N-Save-Concentrate-41-Percent-Glyphosate-1-Gallon/dp/B00ARKS3XO

2,4-D
https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Killer-Control-Broad-Leaf/dp/B0072289CA

Other 2,4-D product

https://m.lowes.com/pd/BAYER-ADVANCED-Season-Long-Weed-29-fl-oz-Weed-Killer/50243349?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-LawnGarden-_-GrassAndWeedChemicals-_-50243349:BAYER_ADVANCED&CAWELAID=&kpid=50243349&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=615&k_clickID=6b79e575-7ca3-42b2-a1f2-c6f50eced25f&gclid=CjwKCAjw2rjcBRBuEiwAheKeL-N663qac8KLFbGjysFUpGiz3dxpJvuJWqraBIwdr-xDg3lMghm4GhoC_14QAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Killer-Control-Broad-Leaf/dp/B0072289CA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539472038&sr=8-3&keywords=broadleaf+weed+killer

The product:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072289CA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My sprayer:

https://smile.amazon.com/Chapin-20000-Multi-Purpose-Fertilizers-Household/dp/B000E28UQU/ref=pd_bxgy_86_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000E28UQU&pd_rd_r=6PXKQEBEW1MHEQGK9RK0&pd_rd_w=OUS2M&pd_rd_wg=jNutE&psc=1&refRID=6PXKQEBEW1MHEQGK9RK0

I'm on a well and have the same problem. There was a higher up-front cost but I got one of these https://www.amazon.com/Melnor-4-Zone-Digital-Water-Timer/dp/B0094KM4VK and enough hoses/sprinklers to attach to it. Now I can have up to 4 sprinklers that run one after the other to cover the areas I'm reseeding.

I got these bad boys last summer.

They do the job, radio comes in clear, Bluetooth works fine. If I did it again, I'd get the AM/FM only because I never use the Bluetooth. I just don't carry a phone while doing yard work.

The only complaint is that they get hot after a while, but what do you expect?

Is this a good one?

Southern Ag 2, 4 - D Amine Weed Killer, 1 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072289CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AOEvCb5QYBYY2

Southern Ag 2,4-D Amine Weed Killer Selective Broadleaf Weed Control, 32oz - 1 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072289CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AL7kg257mm9or

Get a pump sprayer.

I would recommend this, a 2,4d concentrate. I am in 7B as well and had many of the same broad-leaf weeds that you have. I applied two applications in late March and it killed them all without harming my turf.

Southern Ag 2, 4 - D Amine Weed Killer, 1 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072289CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G2x3CbXR38EES

2,4-d is good for broadleaf weed. Won't kill grass but it will kill st augustine which you don't have.

https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Selective-Broadleaf-Control/dp/B0072289CA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526487449&sr=8-1&keywords=2%2C4-d